Merry-Go-Round first Gottlieb metal rail. Cabinet was painted over red and white, transformer burned some time back and was Frankensteined back to life. Working on final mechanicals.

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I have a transformer for it

I start with cabinets to get motivated. Been stalled on mechanics as this one had a transformer fire.

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Took years but done. It was a mess with about 1/4 of the wiring harness burned due to a transformer fire. Steppers seized due to heavy layers of lithium grease. About 30 loose wires needed re-soldering. I was surprised I was able to get it up without schematics. Just kept at it all day, one problem at a time flushed out.

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Im selecting my next restore from my stash. I have:
bank a ball - already restored one this one needs some playfield touchups and clearcoating . Cabinet needs a lot of love and repaint chrome is trashed picked up for a cheap years ago. Likely next. I already purchased the back glass balls and new back glass.
Crosstown - rough all around, got cheap
Cow-Poke - this will need a new back glass and lots of play field touchups & clearcoat. Also will need a total cabinet repaint was painted over white and is pretty beat
Quick Draw - Pretty fair shape already but I am waiting for Wade Krause playfield replacement to make it new

Bank a ball - cab repair & paint, playfield touch-up and clear needed.
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Water damaged/rotted cabinet - Bank A Ball rescue/restore
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Still working on my Bank-a-Ball restore. Playfield water damaged causing paint and finish loss. Doing pretty much a total repaint. About 80% done.

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Ready to clear my BAB

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I already posted what it is, no looking back but here's a hint

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Waiting on PBR for flipper bushings, coil sleeves, rubber, new caps, Total restore, about 160 hours in it over last 3+ weeks.
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Just finished debugging and tuning my Bank A Ball restoration.

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Agreed Spatter/splatter is a meant as a details distraction vs attraction. The above job is not bad, I give it high grades for density (not going too heavy, biggest rookie mistake) but the consistency could be a bit better. I have redone a dozen machines and have been 100% happy with the webbing on maybe 2.I was only happy with one of these.
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I’m getting tired of waiting on Wade to rerun this one. I have a quick draw Playfield that could easily be restored but wanted a new one. If I finish and recover from doing my Cowpoke ground up before he gets them going I may just go for it.

It’s looking better but you reallllly need to take the rails off to do it right.

Starting a Cowpoke complete restore:
Playfield: There is a lot of planking requiring extensive touch-ups/insert leveling/clearcoating
Cabinet: Structural repairs, repaint to original, renew hardware, new lockdown endcaps, new Ron Webb Repro backglass
Mechanics: Mechanically it looks to be in great shape, just needs a complete & thorough cleaning adjusting and repairs as required.
I am starting off on this restore in my newly reorganized workshop so I might have a chance of being somewhat efficient. For this one I will attempt to accurately clock the hours I spend. So far 4 hours stripping the playfield to wood and 1st and 2nd pass cleaning.
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I’m happy to take photos of you need

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That will require a custom mix, if you are color blind get a female to help (they are less prone to color blindness)

I had one once, nice machine.

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Looks like the same pattern as spin wheel I did a couple of repaints on. Relatively Easy pattern to replicate.

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No stencil, I trace the pattern on thick mil clear plastic, use as a guide for painters tape placement. You only need trace one side left or right as the opposite side is a mirror image, just flip it over.

Cow Poke getting some love. Complete restore.

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Cow Poke Cabinet repair

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It's crazy, Finally got a Cowpoke project after a long search and another drops in my lap. I bought it. (thought better of it, sold the next day)

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Cowpoke in work

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Cow*Poke coming along

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CowPoke cabinet & main board done, head and playfield restore remains

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Getting my head together

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Pretty ambitious taking on a bingo as your first. Have fun, take a lot of pictures.

Finishing the underside of cowpoke playfield components. Completely disassembled & cleaned. Wiring harness getting a bath.

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Cowpoke playfield touch-up, 1st pass. Repainting about 75%

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Waiting on the clear to dry to finish leveling and sanding for cowpoke. Stripped my quick draw cabinet to start restore in anticipation of a new reproduction playfield from Wade Krause.

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I repaint any color with enough area damage that will require more than a dime size repair. The cowpoke had planking mainly in the yellow bottom half of the playfield, the white was almost brown in places as well. The darker blue was badly worn at the pops and the inserts so that color got the full repaint as well. All hand brush painted. Once all painting is completed it looks pretty ragged due to the brush marks but with a nice thick coat of clear it all flattens out perfectly. The remaining four or five colors only required microscopic touchups. As for raised or cupped inserts You MUST be sure they are secure to even consider not regluing them. Raised inserts always need to be reseated. Minor cupping can be filled. As for depopulating, no question everything must go, side rails included. You can’t sand a playfield smooth if there are objects remaining. To remove pops you take off the cap, there are two screws holding it to the playfield. Then unsolder the light socket and take pop ring nuts from the underside. To keep the black lines crisp after painting a color let it dry and gently clean any areas that encroach on the lines with a X-Acto knife and or wet Q-tip. I just did a BAB all yellow, blue, white and 1/2 the peach and red under pops done on this badly planked playfield. I ended up repainting the flipper area on cowpoke, failing to recreate the wood tone, I opted to cover the ugliness with a brown camouflage (let’s call it corral dirt Brown Waiting for the clear to cure before final sanding and polishing.
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It doesn’t mix it merely smooths out the reflection of the uneven brush texture. Looks perfectly flat once the grooves are filled in with clear.

Don’t count on the clear being the glue, you’ll get moving inserts and chipping. Remove all loose (probably all) and reglue them. Good opportunity to level them.

McFaddens lacquer.

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I forget it’s been years since I bought 8 qts. Down to my last one now. Time to resupply. I use at least a quart every playfield.

I’ll put a big flat washer stack under the wire ball guide, alternately prying each end. Twist a large flat head screwdriver between the top washer and wire. Watch the playfield does not pull up with the wire.

Spray, you can’t brush lacquer clear over paint, it gets “hot” meaning it melts the prior coat. It’ll smear (I know I wrecked a really nice el dorado learning)

Not brushing lacquer, lacquer sprayed over lacquer (original clear) will melt original clear and if brushed, will smear original art and touch ups paint on and around original lacquer.

Any work around touch ups can be a risk I guess, you should completely strip and clean the surface before touch ups.

I may be developing late stage A.D.D. Tore into my Fast Draw as well as my Quick Draw. The FD cab was a wreck. The head and body had MDF in the bottom of the head and back side of cabinet. They stood on a wet seaside shed in Boston
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Finished cowpoke complete restore. Needs debugging. I have about 160 hours in it.
Need schematics if anyone has it’d be great to get a high resolution picture

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Fixed all the bugs on my Cowpoke restore except one thing. First activation of the score motor after game set-up for a 5 or 50 point score I get an extra ball scoring. After that first scoring both the 5 and 13 banks reset (resetting "Z") and all works normally. It's kicking my butt.
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XX is add balls to play relay to Add ball on balls to play unit. If I manually reset Z before plunging the ball it plays correctly. Should 5 bank (and Z) be resetting before the ball is served up? Seems Z needs to be activated to step up the balls to play to 5 at start but is still active until the motor runs again, adding a ball through Z then the bank resets deactivating Z.
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Still trying to decipher the sequence you describe but cutting to the chase, the z should be reset and ball count should be at 5 BEFORE the ball is plunged correct? It appears something in the path between the 4th and 5th ball count step up is not working, I’ll take a close look at the ball count unit and items you described. Thank you!

I’m guessing I have my balls to play unit set off by one position. I set the zero position assuming it was correct when I got it. It could well have been set wrong before. It was a non-working project when I got it.

Based solely on your description...
I’m guessing I have my balls to play unit set off by one position. I set the zero position assuming it was correct when I got it. It could well have been set wrong before. It was a non-working project when I got it.

---Confirmed, 10 second fix!!!! Many thanks, working correctly!

Quick and Fast Draw cabinets

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Damn , I like a clean game and will hammertone back doors with copper color when originally brass color and silver for galvanized but that’s just sick. Great job!

Not cutting corners on that touch up. Nice

I’m guessing these are less than 1/16th thick. I imagine any wallowed out hole might need a little toothpick filler but wouldn’t expect much impact on kickers or pops. Flippers should have plenty of height in them to accommodate.

Inspiration for you. Just sold the one I restored. If your playfield is like mine, mine had much heavier black lines in the clear coat. However it extremely thick and those long black lines will clean up with enough magic eraser work. I never wore through to the paint.

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Thanks did this one a year or so ago. It was pretty rough but the playfield was nice once I got the inserts straightened away. New Webb backglass.

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Trying to psych myself into getting back into my fast and quick draw restores I started. New Playfields now clearcoated so it’s time to start rebuilding.

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Fast draw/quick draw restores restarted.

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Looks legit to me and I know this game well.

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Finally back on my Quick Draw restore. I have a Fast Draw in progress as well. I painted both cabinets at the same time to reuse the home made stencils. That was hit and miss, the Mylar plastic stencils I made ripped a lot and required a lot of repairs after using each up to 4 times (left/right x 2) There’s no efficiency trying to do both in tandem from here. Both getting new playfields.

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Don’t tell the wife…

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They survived cleaning. The coil wrappers didn’t. Also I put the dishwasher on too long and some switch insulators from the score motor disintegrated. Easy fix with it torn down. Replaced the bad ones and put new wrappers on.

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Hand traced and cut from old art. The tac spray holds tight and pulling it off will start a tear in sharp turns.

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Slow and steady progress on Quick Draw. Game came to me missing the counter. I used a spare I had but no idea what number of games to put on it so I reset to 000000. New playfield going in so it’s semi appropriate.

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The only way to really clean is to break it down. Drops target assemblies took the better part of a day. I’m not used to them. The majority of my restorations have been from the 60s and few had drops. Targets cleaned up nice, minor touch up needed on silver horseshoe targets only.

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Playfield swap complete for quick draw. Head mechanics left and debugging.

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Finished Quick Draw restoration. Added to my em lineup. New clearcoated playfield, new backglass, plastics, posts, light sockets, cabinet restore to original, playfield glass, coin door. I have too much in it but it’s a keeper.

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Lovely, one of my favorite Bally’s

Might be my favorite part of restoring these games. I have fixed some butt ugly cabinets.

Fast draw getting full restore, new cleared playfield going in. Finished its twin Quick Draw this summer with its cabinet.

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Not sure the brand but staples are thin and close to original. It’s a generic thin gage pneumatic furniture gun off eBay.

Looks like it’ll be fantastic when it is.

Fast draw playfield swap. De-rusted and cleaned components ready for fastening.

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Steady progress on my Fast Draw restore. New coin door needs installation, then main board rebuild and head mechanics with new sockets. The original backglass is a 7-8 with a bit of red paint loss. Trying to get Shay to run some with the orange Indian dress, he claims some came in white but the only ones I have seen that color were his reproductions. Anyone ever see an original in white??

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Used to, now I find physical inspection during shop/restore process catches problems faster than chasing them down before shopping.

Gotta love 4 player jobs. Fast Draw getting a complete rebuild. Lots of time spent to properly restore multi player games. It’s no wonder the a single players are most collected. They did make these jammed back boxes modular though. That’s nice for breaking it down. Here I’m redoing the back box sockets. New sockets are a must any more, I’m over having to repeatedly open up a restored game to jiggle an intermittent light bulb.

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Finishing fast draw.

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I picked up a basket case Fast Draw when I was already doing a Quick Draw. It seemed like fate as I had already committed to two playfields from Wade Krause to get them run. All done, waiting on Shay’s latest reproduction backglass with orange dress to finish Fast Draw.

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Love it! Probably the 2nd nicest merry go round in existence

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Diving into a Cross Town restore

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I go all the way when I do restores, no half measures. This playfield is getting touched up and clearcoated 1st to allow time to cure while the rest is in work. I had a clearcoated playfield insert move on me once while polishing it.. ONCE. Since then if there is any doubt I'll remove and reglue inserts. It also gives you the opportunity to level them.

Share how you fix your subway doors. I have to repair mine too