A Jungle Princess for a friend and a Big Indian for myself. Jungle Princess coming along ok. BI is kicking my ass. See the other thread on this forum.

My first game. Bought it in 1971 when I was 13 years old. Still have it. The cabinet paint is getting really flaky so I'm contemplating a repaint. Playfield is still really really good and the backglass has been replaced.

Where did you come up with the AAB kit?

On the playfield for my Big Indian. Finished the top side and now going to the underside. thumbnail (resized).jpg thumbnail2 (resized).jpgthumbnail3 (resized).jpg

Started the repaint of Atlantis.

This is the head and cab of a game Mike O bought that had possibly the worse nicotine stains on it I've ever seen. But the head and the cabinet are the best I've ever repainted. I hardly had to fill at all, and didn't really even have to reglue anything.

Mike and I switched cabs. We emptied the games and he took my original cab from my game and I took this on to repaint. Head front (resized).jpgHead right (resized).jpg Pedestal (resized).jpg

The circles can be difficult on RG

Well, it will be an adventure if nothing else. You couldn't have picked a more complex EM to learn on. In addition to two separate bonus steppers, that game is so loaded with relays, steppers etc that when I've moved mine and we had to carry it, we had to remove the playfield to get up and down stairs, it's so heavy.

I've been working on these games for a long time and it's the only EM that just flat intimidates me. And it has 20 score reels on it so if you're going to clean all those you'll be there awhile.

Good luck!

Nice paint job. Did you just decide to skip the webbing?

I've never worked on one but yeah, I hear they're really complicated, and really heavy too.

Duh. Having owned one you'd think I'd remember if it had webbing or spatter. Nice job.

Finished with Atlantis 20200323_212343 (resized).jpg20200323_212356 (resized).jpg

That's a Wade playfield. It's been in the game awhile.

Mike O and I swapped cabinets. He took my original cab and I took one he had bought that was horribly nicotine stained. Unbelievably, it was maybe the most solid cabinet I've ever worked on. Very little filling and no gluing needed at all. And the inside was just pristine.

Mike may have pictures of it. I didn't take any before I got started on it. It was almost orange, it was so bad. Never seen anything quite like it.

Starting in on a Gottlieb Gigi. I'll try to post some pictures later on. Cabinet is a mess, playfield is not too bad. Non working right now, I'll hopefully get that going first then start in on all the cosmetic stuff.

Holy Shit!!!

Mike, I think the answer is, they weren't.

This is guy who cuts all the wires on Jones plugs on complete steroids.

That looks fabulous. Great job polishing it up. I have a 1968 Bally Surfers with all three chutes on the door. This is motivating me to do this also. The game could use a repaint and when I get to that I'll see what I can do about shining up the door parts like this.

Ballys of that era had nice gray legs. You could really make it stand out with those legs on it. Steve Young could use the business I'm sure...

I took one apart one time and I found the wrapper to a Hershey bar stuffed up inside there. Based on the price on the wrapper and some internet digging the wrapper was from around 1973

They got nothing on mid 70s Ballys. See Night Rider, Old Chicago etc...

I've started on the motor board of my Gigi I'm restoring. Cleaned up the extremely grimy score motor. I love the brass plating. So classy looking.

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Started in on my Gigi. Right now just assessing everything. I did get the artwork traced for stencils.

This one might have set a record for the number of names carved on one side of the cabinet. I think there's five different names on there.

These are all before except I have cleaned up the motor a bit and the ball lift mechanism. One thing for sure, the plywood used in the early 60s was superior to what was used later on.

Does anyone know when Gottlieb quit painting over the striker plate for the front door? I had a Bank A Ball and that was painted also. Saved me ordering a new one from PBR, I'll just clean it up and reinstall and paint with the cab. Pedestal was coming apart, I've reglued that and it's now solid. The backglass was bad, bgresto to the rescue. I haven't received it yet but Steve sent me the finished artwork, going to be beautiful

Fortunately the bumper caps are in good shape. I'll just have to touch up the numbers a bit. You'd go broke with 14 caps on this game. The bumper bodies are all trash but fortunately those a relatively cheap.

I love these old brass plated metal games. They shine up so nicely. You end up with a beautiful interior that unfortunately is rarely seen. 20200403_205445 (resized).jpg20200409_195500 (resized).jpgGigi motor (resized).jpgGtb-Gigi- (resized).jpgResized_20190727_102858 (resized).jpegResized_20190727_102917 (resized).jpegResized_20190727_102932 (resized).jpegResized_20200409_211332 (resized).jpeg

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LOL, I'd say so.

I'm often accused of being overly anal in taking games apart to clean them up and make them look nice and shiny but even I've never gone that far with a game.

You can make them really nice without going that far. Here's an example from a Big Indian I just finished up recently.

First game I ever did that with was a Drop A Card. Took everything off the motor board, took the motor apart, shined everything, new labels, the works. It's a ton of work. I wish you luck getting that back together and functioning.

Here's the before and after of that motor.

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DAC motor after (resized).jpg

Well, I certainly hope it still is, I sold the game awhile back.

I've got a picture somewhere of the motor board back in the game. I'll try and find it.

It's a ton of work, and you do risk messing stuff up. So far, only one game I've done I couldn't get going after a restoration like this. Fortunately a great tech got me the last few percentages back to full operation. I was close but not quite there.

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Continuing the Gigi restoration. While the playfield is off for touchups and clear I'm cleaning and replacing all the mechs underneath. Today got the ball trough done. It's usually full of crud and this one is no exception. Got the rollover wires tumbling to shine them ipi.

Head and cab sanded down. Head is filled and finish sanded and primed and painted and webbed and today first stencil work done. Cab is filled and awaiting finish sanding

The game came from Iowa so who knows?

Here's the coin door from it completed. This is the original door replated by Chris Royalty at Hot Rod Arcade...20200526_195831 (resized).jpg
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If you have some kind of anvil you can tap that down with a hammer to straighten it. Take your time and go easy.

Fine scratches use 1500 grit wet/dry sandpaper. Keep going up to maybe 3000 grit. Takes some work.

How did you accomplish that? Very impressive job.

Good idea.

One side of the Gigi head done...20200603_155002 (resized).jpg

Thanks Don. It's amazing what you can do with Pinball Pimp stencils...

This is a simple pattern but circles are not fun. He had not done Gigi before so i traced the design on clear film and sent them to him and he made them. Same thing we did with Time Zone which is a bit tougher pattern with a really big circle. Came out beautiful. I think it's my best restore to date.

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Finished this Gigi head. First time I've used one of these front design stencils. Have to go slow and carefully getting it all lined up. I sure would not want to try this with a home brew stencil 20200608_135948 (resized).jpg

Was that paint or what? Playfield looks pretty good. If Pinball Pimp has the stencils I highly recommend them.

Gigi work continues. This is the first Gigi glass done by bgresto. Plain beautiful. 20200615_161850 (resized).jpg
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Good Lord. Why do people do this to games?

That is done with a Weiler brush and flat black Americana paint. I bend several of the bristles out and dip them in the paint. Then you bend the bristles back and let them go. In order to get webbing you have to be very close to the cabinet. Like an inch away. If you're further back you get spatter. The more paint on the bristles the heavier and darker the webbing is. If you look at original webbing you'll find that at times. It takes a bit of practice to refine it.

More Gigi progress. I need to shine the lockdown bar receiver a bit more and the coin chutes so the receiver is just sitting in place. Once the receiver is done I'll get the shooter in place too

Also got the 0-9 disc back in place. MikeO did some nice soldering work on some worn rivets. 26 wires to desolder. Fun!

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I did plug it in and hit the hold relay and the motor ran fine. Obviously without the head on yet it didn't stop but I expected that. Should get the head back together this week.

Someone had wired a switch into it and I had to remove that and wire it back to original. It worked ok but I wanted to put it back the way it originally was. I need to cover the hole they drilled in the cab.

The yellows are tough plus yellow pigments just don't cover worth a damn. Another tough one is Gottieb's myriad shades of aquamarine. Nearly impossible to find a direct match. There are some. Reds are easier but in the main it's not common to get a match out of the bottle.

Hot Rod Arcade work. I know the original door was not like that but I like the look. It's actual bright nickel not chrome. The only downside is if the door has even a small ring in it you will see it under certain lighting and angles. I only do it with a very straight door.

I got the receiver done and the coin chutes back in and the shooter in place. It's total silliness to do all this on parts nobody sees but with that brass plating I just can't help myself...

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LOL if you're getting a plated receiver from them you're sicker than I am. Makes me feel less obsessed. Thanks.

Great job on that restoration too.

I've never played a flipper less game. Can't imagine what that is like.

It is beautiful though.

Gigi lightboard repainted and bulbs back in. Ready to go back in the head.20200702_101658 (resized).jpg

20200702_201446 (resized).jpgGigi is done as far as I can go until the playfield is ready. So far everything seems to be working as it should...20200702_201953 (resized).jpg20200704_140211 (resized).jpg20200702_202208 (resized).jpg

It really has 24 reels? The ones aren't dummies?

I've never seen the EM version. Very rare

That's been restored to a point or it's a very low play playfield. There's quite a few hints there. The kickhole holes have little to no damage. The white areas until the slings are still very white, those tend to yellow badly. There's no ball track in the upper arch. No damage under the bumpers that can be seen and no wear near the kickout holes. There is the usual fading under the flippers and there is a definite change in the upper arch in the natural areas. Appears to be the usual small divot that appears under the rebound rubber. There is the typical damage under the posts from the post screws.

My vote is this is a very low play playfield or it was meticulously maintained. That is extremely nice assuming it's an original playfield.

The male plugs have labels on them. For example if you want replay levels at 6500 and 7600 you put the plug with the 6 in the 500 hole and the plug with the 7 in the 600 hole. Two plugs on one wire allows two replay levels in the same thousands such as 7200 and 7900.

I had a Jack Open that was basically HUO most of its life. It was very blonde. Basically no fade under the flippers. Easily the best one I've ever had.

I did a bit of cleanup and repainting on my Grand Prix. I'm getting ready to do a repaint on the cab but I wanted to do a bit of work on the playfield first. The upper arch was all scarred up and the lower apron wasn't in good shape. The middle arch was dull as were the bars up there.

I had a decal I got from Pinball Rescue back before PPS shut them off on Williams stuff but it didn't match the original on this game. The upper arch was always the deep blue but the lower was white. I thought why not paint them the same and use the decal I had which was all white and red? So I gave it a shot.

There's still some fogging from the adhesive but it is clearing out well. I think it came out pretty good and adds some color to the game. This playfield is really nice. I redid all the keylines on the inserts while I was at it. Polished all the metal parts and it's back together and playing well. I re-rubbered it while I was at it.

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Pinball Rescue site says Australia Post is still suspended Economy Air. A bunch of us here were able to get some parts from them by going together and having Lee and Gordon ship the stuff FedEx and then Pinhead52 reshipped to all of us. Probably a bit higher total shipping than normal but when you need stuff you need stuff.

The said they're looking into alternatives. Sure hope so.

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Started on Wizard. Back and bottom boards need replaced as does the mounting plate for the pedestal. Fractured in two places.

Whoever decided to use particle board for the back panel should have a special place reserved in hell. That part of the cab takes the most abuse and they use junk that disintegrates once a piece gets knocked off.

20200824_150956 (resized).jpg20200824_151003 (resized).jpgWizard back panel, bottom board and pedestal plate replaced

Did you put up the wrong picture?

Replaced all the bumpers on my recently acquired Old Chicago. Skirts were chipping off and caps were faded. Complete replacements all around.

Got that done but the first bumper being done must have had the skirt tip hit the spoon switch and kaboom it fractured. The other four don't look real good so I'm going to replace them all and that will be that, but had to order them in. First EM I've ever had with those plastic spoons.

Not an EM but redid all the drop target springs and installed an all in one Pascal Janin board in my Joker Poker. He does such great work and really makes those System 1 games step up in class.

Continue to work on my Wizard. I have finished all the work on the lightboard which included disassembly of all the reels and relays and steppers and cleaning and adjusting

Today started on the lightboard. First job is cleaning and adjusting the motor switches. Not a bad job on a Bally motor. Remove them all then start at one end. You can turn the discs by hand and easily check all the switches.

Cab is painted and stenciling will start soon.

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You can generally get the screws out of the bumper body with the lamp socket in place. Turn the playfield over and remove the nuts from the rod and ring and the bracket and remove the bracket assembly , desolder the leads and pull the whole bumper assembly out.

Did you have any issues with the clear getting in the grooves of the star rollovers?

Down to just one side on the cab of my Wizard. Such cool artwork on this one

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Not at all. I've never had a reaction to the Montana paints at all. The yellow and red are Montana and the blue is Molotow. I really like the Molotow paint.

I did have an issue with the stencil on the left side. The red stencil just flat wouldn't stick to the cab. The right side was fine. And the front was fine. I burnished it all down and when I went to peel up the top the stencil just kept coming with it. I go slow and carefully it just wasn't happening. The stencil was getting buggered up and finally I just got frustrated with it and tore it all off. I called Jeff and he's cutting me a new piece. That stencil is intricate enough with small pieces and I'd rather pay for a new piece that screw it up trying to get it to work.

Either the stencil sticky was weak or the cover was sticking really strongly to the stencil but it was a mess.

Looks great.

I've never had any issues with the stencil peeling off to cab after painting. Just a couple of issues with the stencil itself.

I used a gloss white once, on a Stargazer. Like this game lots of small pieces but even more so. Think it was Krylon. Anyway it stuck to the stencil and caused stringing of the paint on the edges and other issues. I try not to use too much gloss since then. I clear the cab with semi gloss anyway so the sheen doesn't really make much difference.

The Wizard is now just down to the playfield work. Motor board back in the cab, other cab internals back in, and head installed. Everything that can be tested without the playfield is working perfectly.

On the Bally sockets, it must just be my luck, but I have restored several Bally games. I think I have had to replace one socket on all of them. My Surfers was stored for 20 years and when I got it going again every single bulb worked.

Wizard has a ton of bulbs in the lightboard for GI. This game wasn't overly dirty but the bulbs had the normal dirt coating all over them. I removed all the bulbs and replaced them. I did no cleaning or any other kind of work on the sockets. When I turned it on today for the first time every single bulb worked. No flickering or dimming or anything. My experience has been that Gottlieb sockets are way flakier and troublesome than Wiliams or Bally.

Anyway some more pictures

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Finally finished going through every relay and stepper on my Wizard.

I decided to give a hardtop a try on this game as the playfield was pretty planked. So today I started the prep for that installation. I wanted to get rid of the ball track up top, and get the playfield as flat as possible. Some if the inserts are dead level now. Others are slightly cupped still but with the hardtop doesn't matter. Still some more work to do but getting there.

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I have had an issue using polycrylic brushed on over acrylic touchups. It causes the touchups to run. Have you had this issue? I now spray only if I clear a playfield. I don't have the facilities to do auto clear so this is the best I can do.

Finally got the hardtop installed on my Wizard and started repopulating the playfield. These hardtops are beautiful and a great solution for a playfield that has major issues. Not a real tough install. All in the prep.

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I got it but haven't seen it yet. It went straight to Ron Kruzman for clearing.

Once I finish Wizard I'll start on the cab repaint for Old Chicago. I'll do the playfield swap whenever Ron gets it done

Wizard playfield all repopulated. This hardtop is so nice. Hope it holds up.20210117_135758 (resized).jpg

Wizard completed and working 100%. Into the lineup it goes.

The hardtop plays like a normal playfield to me. Perfectly flat so no sunken insert issues.

Very preliminary start on a 1960 Gottlieb Merry Go Round. Playfield is rough. A bit of cleaning and assessing where I'm going with this one today.20210120_185423 (resized).jpg20210121_125253 (resized).jpg20210121_131729 (resized).jpg

He lets it cure then sands it off. His process takes 3-4 months.

Ballys can be hit or miss. Some really fun games in there and some turds. I've always liked them but I'm kind of in the same boat now. Growing on me. I've got four now and while they're all good players, especially Old Chicago which I just love, the games with Dave Christensen's art are just fun to look at, especially the back glasses. Really nice looking playfield on that one

I can't quite tell if that's actually a Herb job or just highly polished. I've actually kind of moved away from all that bright chrome a bit. It is pretty but when the upper arch gets chromed I think that's a bit too far.

Merry Go Round playfield cleaned up and getting ready for touchups. Disassembled the head today to start on the lightboard. Maybe the most cooked backglass I've had so far.

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Finished up the light board on the Merry Go Round. The reels all cleaned up nicely. One had some damage due to the lamps rubbing but touched up well. All relays and steppers de-gunked and cleaned and adjusted.

The quality of materials in those older games was much superior to what came later. This board and the head itself have much better wood.20210204_152550 (resized).jpg20210204_153019 (resized).jpg20210204_163552 (resized).jpg20210204_164059 (resized).jpg20210204_164015 (resized).jpg

Finished what would be called the motor board for Merry Go Round if the motor wasn't on the playfield itself. The coil for the 30v hold relay is toast but ither than that I cleaned and adjusted the relays and all the switches in the trip bank.

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LOL. Just like the lightboard in the head is sometimes called an insert.

It's the first game I ever have had with the motor on the playfield. So now I'll follow you and call it the bottom board. I sometimes go back and forth calling it the bottom or motor board.

I do this on just about all my games. The only one I haven't done this with is Grand Prix. It works great and that damned game just intimidates me.

Yeah, that makes sense too.

Sometimes we call it the backbox, sometimes the head. I think I use them all interchangeably.

Calling it a relay board would be especially apt on a Bally because Bally games tend to have 524 relays down there. They really loaded them on there. Even my single player Bally has a ton of relays on that board.

This game is very minimal on relays on that board. Took me next to no time to clean those up. Those mag relays are so easy to disassemble compared to AG relays, especially the AG relays that have two stacks with a jumper between the stacks. Those can be a PITA. Nothing quite like an Ax but not a lot of fun.

Head of the Merry Go Round I'm restoring has the base coat and silver spatter on. Waiting on some paint to arrive to start the design.

Also final clear on my Gigi playfield. Touchups were done and then clear. Not done by me, a local guy who does fantastic work. Playfields aren't my strength so I go where the talent is.

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He has the MGR playfield right now, Mike. It was really checked up, I cleaned it up as well as I could. We decided to do some work like keylines etc and then clear it, sort of a player's game with the patina left to a point, and cleared to keep it from getting any worse. A complete redo would have been just way too much. It certainly won't look like Gigi but I'm thinking it's going to be kind of cool in its own right.

As noted above that is a trip bank and needs to be secured with the wing nuts. If the game has been operating with that hanging like that it's a miracle

Beautiful game, but you must be really skinny to be able to the play the others games there...

The story of a pinball collector. There are only a few who can have as many as they want. The rest of us have to hide them somewhere else or break them down and store them.

Those were factory. They don't chew up anything as long as you clean your playfield once in awhile.

Games on location that were not maintained had damage. Games on location without them would have had equal or more damage.

How do you know?

Cool. Never worked on a gun game. Sure played a bunch of them though.

Playfield work continues on Gigi restoration...

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Finished Gigi. Now working on Gottlieb Merry Go Round from 1960. I'm in an old school run right now. Got the head done, moving to the cab now. 20210413_164325 (resized).jpg20210415_111728 (resized).jpg

Pretty sure those are original.

Instead of tumbling them, do this. Screw them onto a playfield post. Chuck the post into your drill. Dip the nut in chrome or metal cleaner. Hold a rag against the nut and hit the drill. On the first pass you'll come out with a whole lot of black on the rag. Move the nut a couple times to different areas on the rag. It will shine right up and way quicker than tumbling.

If you have a lot of rust drop them in Evaporust first.

20210502_125740 (resized).jpg20210502_130126 (resized).jpgThis wasn't real bad but it's the way to go

Continuing the repaint of the Gottlieb Merry Go Round Cab. Getting close, just the green stripe left to paint and clearing to be done and then I can start work on reassembling the cab components. Head is done. One shot of the before cab.

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Finished up the cab design on Merry Go Round. I just set a side rail and the lockdown bar in place. That lockdown bar is just massive.

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Getting closer on the head I'm doing for a guy who is turning a Meteor cab into a Stargazer.

I got this Williams Zig Zag a couple of weeks ago. If not for the kickout hole wear I wouldn't touch this playfield. Doesn't even have a ball track up top. I'll restore the cab down the line. For now just playing and enjoying

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Merry Go Round awaits a PBR order and the return of the playfield 20210604_153618 (resized).jpg

Thank you. When you start with good bones it works so much better. The quality of wood in that game is superior. It's 61 years old but solid as a rock. Minimal filling/gluing.

The OC is not as good as it appears in the picture. It's been hand painted. The glass however is pristine. I just got a CPR repro playfield for it clearcoated by Ron Kruzman. This thing will be sweet when done.

Here's a couple other restored games.20210120_185809 (resized).jpg20210412_181332 (resized).jpg

It's a totally different kind of game than any other I own. Can be frustrating as hell, then you hit a good one where you actually manage to get the special and get enough advances to win some games. Best I've done on it so far is about 1800, and getting to the third replay level which I have at 1500 is not easy, at all.

Good luck on it. To quote Mike O, the logic on this one is pretty tricky. Took a lot of fiddling on it to get it playing 100 percent.

Finished up a repaint of a Stargazer for another pin guy. This was originally a Galaxy cab that he had. Lots of delamination on the front. The quality of wood sure dropped from the 60s to the 80s but this came out good. The red is a custom touch he wanted and i like it.

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Those light bars are a pox on pinball. The reason behind them is understandable but almost without exception there will be flaky sockets on them requiring repair.

Just have to remember they didn't expect us to be working on them 50 years later.

I started the playfield swap and cabinet sand down of my Old Chicago. This is a CPR playfield clear coated by Ron Kruzman. I've moved over all the tee nuts on the back side.

I'll get some pictures. It's a beautiful playfield and Ron's work on it is superb.

Thanks Don. I will do that. As of right now it's minimal, all I've done is install the bumpers and gotten those fin shank nail screws in. And got all the underside holes drilled out and the tee nuts in place. Sanded the head and cab, sanded and painted the rails, and today I got the head primed.

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Except for the ball return stuff and the apron playfield swap of Old Chicago is done. Head all stenciled. I'll get started on the cab tomorrow 20210807_112835 (resized).jpg20210809_115841 (resized).jpg20210817_160555 (resized).jpg