"300"
Gottlieb, 1975
Atlantis
Gottlieb, 1975
Big Deal
Williams, 1977
Black Jack EM
Bally, 1977
Boomerang
Bally, 1974
College Queens
Gottlieb, 1969
Duotron
Gottlieb, 1974
Flip-A-Card
Gottlieb, 1970Quoted from MikeO:That blue one looks like someone tried to glue down the Mylar, probably because it had curled.
That would be a more practical explanation.
Good point, either way it’s been awful to get off. I’m still working on the blue one.
Alberto
Cleaning and waxing. Don’t want to lose any more paint. Likely going to install a playfield protector.
1754CF98-4F63-47C2-83AA-191E3B0B84ED (resized).jpeg576CFF91-22AF-4D56-8053-F427095467BE (resized).jpeg831E1AEC-7330-4D50-9242-767B10EFA775 (resized).jpegA5FB69CB-874E-443F-9E2D-31D4397AA8E1 (resized).jpegAF64FF75-724A-4B1A-A815-69BFC2E7413B (resized).jpegBEB149FE-88DE-432C-9B8D-BF5104326189 (resized).jpegD5CF5237-C0A7-4BD1-8165-FB930070A7C3 (resized).jpegD6E077E6-BB51-4644-93A1-518BB885231B (resized).jpegF035FD07-6796-418E-AFF2-BC0029DDE35C (resized).jpegA friend came over today and picked up his Gottlieb Top Card today, leaving me with an open space. I bought Strange World from another friend and I haven’t run it since I picked it up about 3 years ago. Took me about 5 minutes to get it running and playing again. It’s a nice break from a couple of other problem pinballs in the game room.
868EAAD1-6CFE-407E-9B45-D5733DC16C55 (resized).jpegQuoted from atpcfiaim:A friend came over today and picked up his Gottlieb Top Card today, leaving me with an open space. I bought Strange World from another friend and I haven’t run it since I picked it up about 3 years ago. Took me about 5 minutes to get it running and playing again. It’s a nice break from a couple of other problem pinballs in the game room.
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Funny.. when I started collecting, I'd look at the plastics and PF.
Now, I just see that coin door, and decent apron, and I feel like the battle is half won 
Looking forward to seeing the progress on this one!
Quoted from DanMarino:Cleaning and waxing. Don’t want to lose any more paint. Likely going to install a playfield protector.
Personally, I'd consider stripping that playfield bare and sending it to these guys:
https://www.lasvegasplayfields.com/
You'd be amazed at what they could do with it.
Quoted from DanMarino:Cleaning and waxing. Don’t want to lose any more paint. Likely going to install a playfield protector.
A low cost way to do a spot protector would be to scan in that central area and use a cameo to cut out an exact sized playfield protector out of clear mylar with holes for the rollovers.
Finally finished removing the mylar rings around the pop bumpers on a Sonic Super Straight. I used the Goo Gone method, and it took a LONG time because the rings were incredibly thin (which is probably why they wore through) and came off in little bits instead of peeling off in one piece. It was like old cellophane with very strong adhesive. I used my thumb nail to slowly work it off with Goo Gone bit by bit. I have a new appreciation for the Williams mylar rings I’ve removed previously.
4927630F-5355-44A9-8859-14E2E82F5891 (resized).jpeg8F55117A-75AA-46F9-8F20-1EFAEC9EFEC2 (resized).jpegQuoted from EMsInKC:Not an EM but repainting an Eight Ball Deluxe. This is one tricky stencil[quoted image]
Looks great! I love the evil cowboy, even if he is kinda creepy! 1981 version is the best!
Quoted from EMsInKC:Not an EM but repainting an Eight Ball Deluxe. This is one tricky stencil[quoted image]
Would hate having to peel that stencil off. Too many small areas.
Quoted from Mrg50:I’m modifying my Nip It to have a more realistic alligator.
Wow, that is a LOT better than the original, is that 3d printed?
It’s the front half of a rubber dog chew toy from Amazon. I thought that if a dog can chew on it, it should hold up in a pinball.
https://www.amazon.com/Crocodile-Dog-Lead-free-chemical-free-standards/dp/B077J2GLBP
Quoted from DanMarino:More cleaning. Those kickstands for the glass are pretty neat. Going to the craft store to pick up some paint and brushes for touch ups.
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I stripped, cleaned and serviced my FB a few years ago. If you have any questions, shoot me a PM.
Continuing the Jumping Jack Wade Krause playfield swap...mechs done, metal guides and nylon posts are in. We are very lucky to have someone as meticulous to detail and quality as Wade Krause supplying reproduction playfields to the EM hobbyist community. Like I said before if you're on the fence about doing a Krause swap, I highly recommend his playfields, they're fantastic.
Quoted from Dono:Continuing the Jumping Jack CPR playfield swap...mechs done, metal guides and nylon posts are in. We are very lucky to have someone as meticulous to detail and quality as Wade Krause supplying reproduction playfields to the EM hobbyist community. Like I said before if you're on the fence about doing a Krause swap, I highly recommend his playfields, they're fantastic.
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CPR? You meant WK? Love this table. One of my first and favorite restorations. Under appreciated imo. I noticed quite a bit of variation in the aging/yellowing of your posts if those a all new components, I would recommend a hydrogen peroxide treatment at the least. There are several techniques out there. I use the strongest salon bleach i could find, mixed in a heavy zip lock and put in sun for a couple days. Turning a few times. Not perfect, but will help a lot. More scientific would be a liquid version under UV light for several days. Ken Head imported some NOS posts from Italy a few years ago that are a great option. Lastly, the new "blue-toned" posts are ok if everything else is new such as your lane guides, plastics(?) etc. Will be great when you are done I'm sure!
Quoted from stashyboy:CPR? You meant WK? Love this table. One of my first and favorite restorations. Under appreciated imo. I noticed quite a bit of variation in the aging/yellowing of your posts if those a all new components, I would recommend a hydrogen peroxide treatment at the least. There are several techniques out there. I use the strongest salon bleach i could find, mixed in a heavy zip lock and put in sun for a couple days. Turning a few times. Not perfect, but will help a lot. More scientific would be a liquid version under UV light for several days. Ken Head imported some NOS posts from Italy a few years ago that are a great option. Lastly, the new "blue-toned" posts are ok if everything else is new such as your lane guides, plastics(?) etc. Will be great when you are done I'm sure!
Oops, yes nice catch; I edited the entry to note the change.
Quoted from stashyboy:CPR? You meant WK? Love this table. One of my first and favorite restorations. Under appreciated imo. I noticed quite a bit of variation in the aging/yellowing of your posts if those a all new components, I would recommend a hydrogen peroxide treatment at the least. There are several techniques out there. I use the strongest salon bleach i could find, mixed in a heavy zip lock and put in sun for a couple days. Turning a few times. Not perfect, but will help a lot. More scientific would be a liquid version under UV light for several days. Ken Head imported some NOS posts from Italy a few years ago that are a great option. Lastly, the new "blue-toned" posts are ok if everything else is new such as your lane guides, plastics(?) etc. Will be great when you are done I'm sure!
Great advice; what's really strange is that these posts in person are not nearly as browned-out as the photos show. I have a bunch of Ken's posts and some leftover blues from my Old Chicago restore for possible replacement. Will have to chew on this a bit.
Quoted from Playdium:Would hate having to peel that stencil off. Too many small areas.
I thought that too until I did the first cab stencil today. Simple enough, then disaster.
I've noted in the past sometimes the stencils will stick down too hard and leave a residue when you go to peel them off. What happened today was that on steroids. I literally could not peel it off. It was like it was glued on. Small pieces would break off. Eventually it was ruined so time to start over.
I talked to Jeff and he's mystified by this and thinks it's a reaction to the paint. The problem is it happened on the head, but only on one side. Same paint, same stencil, different result. I think it has to do with temp and humidity change when I take it outside to paint. Don't know for sure. With the head done I can't change paint so that's all I can do is try and keep the temp and humidity constant.
Jeff is great to work with and he cut me a replacement. I'll have to re-do the whole side but that's life. You can see it the pictures one area left just small streaks and the other is just massive. I ended up having to razor blade it all off. Nothing else would work.
Quoted from EMsInKC:I thought that too until I did the first cab stencil today. Simple enough, then disaster.
I've noted in the past sometimes the stencils will stick down too hard and leave a residue when you go to peel them off. What happened today was that on steroids. I literally could not peel it off. It was like it was glued on. Small pieces would break off. Eventually it was ruined so time to start over.
I talked to Jeff and he's mystified by this and thinks it's a reaction to the paint. The problem is it happened on the head, but only on one side. Same paint, same stencil, different result. I think it has to do with temp and humidity change when I take it outside to paint. Don't know for sure. With the head done I can't change paint so that's all I can do is try and keep the temp and humidity constant.
Jeff is great to work with and he cut me a replacement. I'll have to re-do the whole side but that's life. You can see it the pictures one area left just small streaks and the other is just massive. I ended up having to razor blade it all off. Nothing else would work.
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Exact same thing happened to me awhile ago. I turned out to be the paint used. Montana spray paint did not react well with the glue on the stencil due to it being a lacquer based paint. I ended up stripping the entire cabinet and changing to a Rust-O-Leum paint. Strange this only occurred on one side for you.
Quoted from Playdium:Exact same thing happened to me awhile ago. I turned out to be the paint used. Montana spray paint did not react well with the glue on the stencil due to it being a lacquer based paint. I ended up stripping the entire cabinet and changing to a Rust-O-Leum paint. Strange this only occurred on one side for you.
I've used Montana on almost all my restores but have never had this bad an issue. Hell I used Montana White on my Wizard, no issues.
Quoted from EMsInKC:I've used Montana on almost all my restores but have never had this bad an issue. Hell I used Montana White on my Wizard, no issues.
Yes, I consulted with Jeff and after re-stenciling it with a new application of Montana paint, the same thing happened. He agreed that the glue and lacquer does not like each other. I stripped the cabinet back down, new primer, sanded, Rustoleum applied and the stencil peeled off beautifully. This is a picture of the base color affected by the first stencil applied.
IMG_8866 (resized).jpgQuoted from Playdium:Yes, I consulted with Jeff and after re-stenciling it with a new application of Montana paint, the same thing happened. He agreed that the glue and lacquer does not like each other. I stripped the cabinet back down, new primer, sanded, Rustoleum applied and the stencil peeled off beautifully. This is a picture of the base color affected by the first stencil applied.
[quoted image]
Montana cans, like Molotow are acrylic-based and should have no reaction with these stencils. Have used both with Pimp stencils with no issues. Odd problem for sure.
Quoted from mrm_4:Redoing my Strato Flite cab. Pretty happy with how the base blue and the white are turning out for the head.
[quoted image]
Sharp! I can see the Big Dipper.
Still doing touch ups. Going to do a layer of clear and then try airbrushing the white, orange, yellow, and blue.
Also polished some metal and did a better inventory of the parts. Looks like I have everything, plus some new pop bumper caps, skirts, bases, and metal rings or whatever they are called.
Posted this here because the Fireball thread is pretty slow.
5AAB8CA6-D4C0-4D1C-91B8-6A091D67FDAC (resized).jpeg7A20E8FF-68A0-4448-B702-D52287DE01EA (resized).jpeg97B884F3-B7B2-484D-BD57-0C8942EA64A0 (resized).jpegQuoted from mrm_4:Redoing my Strato Flite cab. Pretty happy with how the base blue and the white are turning out for the head.
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A stellar paint job! 
Quoted from Vintage-Pinball:Just finishing off a '64 WMS River Boat. This has had its cabinet restored, playfield areas that were badly worn around the sunken card lamp inserts repaired and repainted and the whole playfield clearcoated and then all new pop bumpers, etc fitted. Might also buy a Bgresto glass for it too, if the owner thinks it fit. Note too that I deliberately left some of th minor playfield wear 'as-is' so that it retains some of its originality. The owner didnt want it looking factory fresh, more a nice looking playfield with just some age related marks.
I've just got to clean the cab of its adhesive reside left from the stencils and a fine tune here and a few new lamp sockets here and there and it's ready to go home.
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How did you do those stencil. I sm trying to find stencil for my willisms 1977, big deal
Quoted from Dono:Montana cans, like Molotow are acrylic-based and should have no reaction with these stencils. Have used both with Pimp stencils with no issues. Odd problem for sure.
Well, I've sanded back down, re-primed and base coat on. I just find it hard to believe it's the paint because it's hit and miss. I've used the same paint repeatedly and never had this happen.
I'm going to move the cab and stencils to a different location where I can also paint. That way I'll at least eliminate change in heat and humidity as the issue. If I have to change paint that will suck because the head is done and matching will be about impossible.
Well, I dug into the paint a bit more. Montana Gold is indeed acrylic. But the Montana Black is a nitro cellulose combo that appears to have an lacquer base.
I used a Montana Black paint as the head base coat so no stencil involvement. Then I used a Montana Gold color for the first stencil. No issue. It was the second stencil, a non Gold paint, that caused issues.
On the cab the base was the Gold. First stencil was the head base color, a Black, and that's where the issue got really bad.
Montana Black is nitro cellose with a lacquer base so it may well be the paint.
Quoted from EMsInKC:Well, I dug into the paint a bit more. Montana Gold is indeed acrylic. But the Montana Black is a nitro cellulose combo that appears to have an lacquer base.
I used a Montana Black paint as the head base coat so no stencil involvement. Then I used a Montana Gold color for the first stencil. No issue. It was the second stencil, a non Gold paint, that caused issues.
On the cab the base was the Gold. First stencil was the head base color, a Black, and that's where the issue got really bad.
Montana Black is nitro cellose with a lacquer base so it may well be the paint.
Yup!!!
Quoted from EMsInKC:Well, I dug into the paint a bit more. Montana Gold is indeed acrylic. But the Montana Black is a nitro cellulose combo that appears to have an lacquer base.
I used a Montana Black paint as the head base coat so no stencil involvement. Then I used a Montana Gold color for the first stencil. No issue. It was the second stencil, a non Gold paint, that caused issues.
On the cab the base was the Gold. First stencil was the head base color, a Black, and that's where the issue got really bad.
Montana Black is nitro cellose with a lacquer base so it may well be the paint.
Sounds like case closed.
Quoted from EMsInKC:Working on the mech panel for my Cross Town. I can't help it, games with the brass plating get polished up...
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Don't use steel wool next time. Just a micro fiber cloth with polish with clean it up.
Quoted from Playdium:Don't use steel wool next time. Just a micro fiber cloth with polish with clean it up.
A quick soak in CLR, followed by a little polishing with Mothers, and those parts gleam like a new penny.
This Far Out is next on the queue. Cabinet and coin door/legs are nice. BG has some flaking across the top, but that is now all stabilized. Playfield is not the greatest, planking, ball swirls, and sunk inserts. Unfortunately the previous owner covered it all with mylar (very nicely cut and applied).
Thanks to help from the gurus on this board, it now plays well, just a few scoring issues to take care of and it will be done.
04234036-C91F-466F-9DCD-B63F1833267D (resized).jpegEE3FC944-2C4B-48EC-9E48-670656E5C219 (resized).jpegQuoted from Peruman:This Far Out is next on the queue. Cabinet and coin door/legs are nice. BG has some flaking across the top, but that is now all stabilized. Playfield is not the greatest, planking, ball swirls, and sunk inserts. Unfortunately the previous owner covered it all with mylar (very nicely cut and applied).
Thanks to help from the gurus on this board, it now plays well, just a few scoring issues to take care of and it will be done.
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I like that layout. Drops and the bonus advance are fun to watch. Nice looking machine.
Quoted from Playdium:I like that layout. Drops and the bonus advance are fun to watch. Nice looking machine.
It has been a fun game to play, looking forward to having it all done. If the PF was not so beat up and mylared it would be so nice.
If I could find a repro or a less beat up playfield I would think of doing a swap.
Alberto
Quoted from Playdium:Don't use steel wool next time. Just a micro fiber cloth with polish with clean it up.
I didn't use steel wool. I did exactly what you posted.
Quoted from EMsInKC:I didn't use steel wool. I did exactly what you posted.
Wow, I would have thought the scratches were from rubbing with wool.
Removing everything above the playfield this weekend. Then going to drop the spinning disc/motor and flippers. After that going to lock in the paint and air brush the white areas behind the plastics and work on the blue background.
IMG_0553[1] (resized).JPGIMG_0554[1] (resized).JPGIMG_0555[1] (resized).JPGIMG_0556[1] (resized).JPGQuoted from beini:How did you do those stencil. I sm trying to find stencil for my willisms 1977, big deal
I bought a Silohette Cameo-Pro cutter. ( this model will take 24" wide vinyl so I can do a one piece stencil for a playfield though the smaller models will also do the job but of course you'd make the stencil in sections instead) It comes with free software to make your stencils though I paid extra to get their Designer software because that allows the importing of SVG type files ( from Inkscape for example) and scanned files too. Once you design the stencil, you just load the cutter with the stencil vinyl, send the design file from your computer to it and it goes and cuts the stencil for you. I hope that helps you but message me if you need more info.
Doug.
Quoted from Playdium:Wow, I would have thought the scratches were from rubbing with wool.
No. I've been doing this awhile. I know better than to use abrasives on those brass plated pieces.
Those scratches were there under the grime. Some things just can't be avoided unfortunately.
Quoted from EMsInKC:No. I've been doing this awhile. I know better than to use abrasives on those brass plated pieces.
Those scratches were there under the grime. Some things just can't be avoided unfortunately.
It’s clean and shiny enough for this guy. Sometimes you have to live with what finish you can salvage. I’m not above using chrome spray paint in a pinch.
03794B5F-F251-4A47-814A-5F1618250EC5 (resized).jpegD1931B6D-49FD-4316-92D6-B0F6CDFF9241 (resized).jpeg
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