1) As hacked, repaired before picture:
... #6 lamp socket is missing.
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2) Finished corrected/repaired picture:
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3) Note: I like to reclinch/repair old lamp sockets...
... I have a picture essay on this website on repairing old bayonet lamp sockets with out soldering...

Those light bars are a pox on pinball. The reason behind them is understandable but almost without exception there will be flaky sockets on them requiring repair.

Just have to remember they didn't expect us to be working on them 50 years later.

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#darling-williams

The game is playable, but there's some damage to the playfield that has to be fixed.

Where might we find your picture essay on reclinching these lamp sockets? I searched and couldn't find it.

Great game...

For me personally, there's just something great about this game... super simple rule set, but something about it has me coming back for more... especially set up on the most conservative drop target setting and a 6.5+ playfield angle... just to throw more dirt in my face when I struggle to complete both banks! Chimes are great on this one... EM or SS, I think both are great...

Fortunately they made a ton, so I get to travel back in time to the mid-seventies at most of the shows. One of these days I'll snag one.

"Where might we find your picture essay on reclinching these lamp sockets? I searched and couldn't find it".
Here are two links to the technique I use:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/lamp-socket-repair-part-two#post-5795366
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/lamp-socket-repair-non-solder-technique-#post-5625137

i woulda done the lamp connectivity mod while working on it. i also have a surf champ and am about to do the mod to all the sockets.

I’m working on Flipper Fair. Half the sockets have problems. Thinking of soaking them in vinegar to dissolve the white stuff . Worked real well on the corroded nuts.

Use CLR. Gets the white fuzz off quickly.

NOS backglass and playfield restoration in progress for my DRAGON EM !

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Wow! Where did you source an NOS BG for the EM version of Dragon?

https://mayfairamusement.com/product-category/backglasses/

Can't remember how many shows I saw that Dragon backglass at... Steve at Mayfair always had a Dragon EM BG displayed with scores of other glasses behind his large booths at Allentown and York... love the glass and the look of the game in general.

Well, I'm thinking Gusher would much rather be next to a relative than some baseball machine, so
this is the next one on the operation's table.
Unlike Gusher, this one's going to need a bit more than just an examination, physical, and tune up..

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Starting to get a feel for the woodies, eh?

There's 14 stored machines hanging out in that room, and the first 3 machines I set up
came from the barn and garage. I need to get these machines set up and off the floor
and I knew Gusher wouldn't take long to freshen up, but yea, I like Gusher's game play.
I'm not sure if Sea Wolf will compare, but it's like Wizard and Captain. If ones set up,
maybe the other should be..

Slow and steady progress on Quick Draw. Game came to me missing the counter. I used a spare I had but no idea what number of games to put on it so I reset to 000000. New playfield going in so it’s semi appropriate.

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I started the playfield swap and cabinet sand down of my Old Chicago. This is a CPR playfield clear coated by Ron Kruzman. I've moved over all the tee nuts on the back side.

I'll get some pictures. It's a beautiful playfield and Ron's work on it is superb.

I suggest browsing through this OC swap thread... it will save you some time on your swap... most everything lines up BUT NOT EVERYTHING.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cpr-old-chicago-playfield-swap-any-gotchas

Thanks Don. I will do that. As of right now it's minimal, all I've done is install the bumpers and gotten those fin shank nail screws in. And got all the underside holes drilled out and the tee nuts in place. Sanded the head and cab, sanded and painted the rails, and today I got the head primed.

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Old Chicago is such a pretty pin... it's the only one I have that my wife let me put in the family room.
I just can't get that top right kickout hole to feed to the left flipper. Have tried everything. I do have one of the thin playfield protectors on it, maybe that's the issue.

The only way to really clean is to break it down. Drops target assemblies took the better part of a day. I’m not used to them. The majority of my restorations have been from the 60s and few had drops. Targets cleaned up nice, minor touch up needed on silver horseshoe targets only.

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Can you please please please tell me how you managed to clean up everything on the underside of that playfield (including the metal) so well??

Working on a Williams "Big Deal" from 1977. The cabinet is coming along nicely. Had to do the stencils from scratch because nothing existed unfortunately. Having a lot of trouble cleaning the score reels and anything that is metal. Would appreciate input/advice. Have an ultrasonic cleaner and have been using that with vinegar for the smaller parts. I just want the steel to look as awesome as possible. Thinking of trying my hand at electroplating. Anyone tried this? Also, trying to locate flipper buttons like the one in the attached image below.

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Get an ultrasonic, tumbler, 0000 steel wool and Mothers Mag Wheel Polish. (And endless hours)

I'm guessing 'mothers mag' is better than 'silvo'? I have an ultrasonic however it's not big enough for parts like the one in the image. Why would a tumbler be a good thing to have?

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Working on a Midway Carnival Target Gallery pitch-n-bat. Solved the problem why the pitching unit would only sometimes work - loose wire on a relay. Re-flowed the solder, and now all good.

Current problem is during the re-set sequence. For some as-yet-to-be-determined reason, the ball count relay engages and stays energized, thus leaving the "ones" reel for the ball count unit in the backglass engaged, buzzing loudly. Gotta figure out why the ball count relay isn't de-energized after the score motor goes back to it's home position.

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A tumbler is used for smaller parts to remove corrosion and rust, and leaves the items with a clean sometimes bright finish. I use crushed walnut shells in mine and it cuts through any build up. However, it is a slow process and sometimes I let it run overnight. I use it mostly for playfield hardware.
For larger items, I used a bench grinder/buffing wheel. These are the side rails to a 1960 pinball machine. They were heavily oxidized and hand polishing wasn't removing it. I used the bench grinder buffing wheel with a buffing compound and it cut right through it. Shown is a before and after shot. I did give these a light progressive sanding, ending with 1500 grit.
However, be careful with the buffer. If the item is held at the wrong angle, the wheel can rip it from your hands.

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Nice job on those rails. Yes. Be very careful with any high speed rotating tools, like buffers. They can catch the edge of your workpiece very quickly, and tear it out of your hands, or fling it at you!
BTW, were you at Pinfest? Didn't see you.

No, I didn't make it this year. Too much going on at home right now. (Gardening, pinball work, house maintenance, more pinball work...)
Finishing up on the Serenade, then starting in on a Strange World. Just finished a Williams Cyclone which currently is the "odd duck" amongst my EM's.

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There was a "Serenade" at the show. Gorgeous game!
Image courtesy of Gotemwill

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This is a first for me...
Gottlieb kicker switch point blown off the front main leaf switch.
Luckily, I save old broken switches for odd repairs like this.
Before repair, with old broken E.O.S. salvage.
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After repair
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Enjoy.

Beautiful setup you have there. Thank you for that advice. I will try using a bench grinder.

what are the specs of your bench grinder btw? 150w? 150mm? 200mm?

https://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/polishers-buffers/6-in-buffer-61557.html

No worries... you'll need

I bent that kicker arm... bend the base and the tip a little to the right, and the ball will kick more left. Be careful as the kicker still needs to clear the hole and not bind... if that seems futile, you might try bending one of the metal tabs where the ball sits in the outhole... so that the ball sits a little left of center. They're a PITA to get right.

Playfield swap complete for quick draw. Head mechanics left and debugging.

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Here I'm almost done upgrading/amending the old flipper assemblies to the newer 1986 style.
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I am very curious about how the flippers will work being AC powered vs DC powered.

Rejuvenating the roto-target on a Domino with decals from Pinball Rescue. What a difference! I’m going to miss being able to get such good products from those guys.

Alberto

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I believe Shay will be soon offering the same supplies.

Looks ssssoooooooo much better, nice.

It looks like a pinball machine now instead of a storage box. Great work.

Still working on Flipper Fair. Everything works. Took apart the coin door, found 25 dimes (no silver). Today was polishing. Can’t get it to a mirror finish. Figure it’s the quality metal behind the deteriorated chrome.

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Just out of interest, what are you using for a stencil? I've been using Mylar on my "Big Deal" but have had a few issues with the paint bleeding and had to re-paint

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I’m repopulating the playfield after a routine clean and wax on this Buccaneer sample game.

I’ve considered letting this one go a couple times over the years but making that clean spinner shot keeps it fun, fun, fun!

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Try putting thinner coats on more times.

I wanted my tropic isle to completely light up after being triggered by a remote switch so I bypassed the hold relay (fiber actually cracked when I took the iron to it from the pressure) and shorted out the lights from the tilt relay. I made it obvious so I can easily go back and reverse it when/if needed.

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