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(Topic ID: 255737)

what e.m. are you working on right now?


By illawarra92

1 year ago



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  • 191 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 hours ago by dr_nybble
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    There are 1389 posts in this topic. You are on page 25 of 28.
    #1201 79 days ago

    The last issue with Four Million BC has been remedied! Lucky for me it was the last one in the chain

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    #1202 78 days ago

    Restoration of my Joker Poker in progress.

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    #1203 78 days ago

    I was cleaning my garage yesterday and finally have some room to start digging into my all star deluxe bowler. Can't wait to bring this old gal back to life.
    I need to find a turrent cover and I should have all the parts.

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    #1204 75 days ago

    Tonight I dealt with the customary disintegrated, baked-on Williams grommets and a missing plastic tip on the small chime plunger (photo shows the number this did on the chime bar, which I’ve flipped over). The OXO chime unit is done. Now on to the bottom board....

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    #1205 74 days ago

    Working on the backside of my current project, Flipper Cowboy. They really stuffed a lot of components on it. The two trip banks are quite heavy. Over the next couple decades, they greatly improve the design and layout to make it much easier to service as well as initial build. Lots of cold solder joints. Built on a Monday?

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    #1206 74 days ago

    Starting to put the Domino I stripped and re-painted back together. The inside of the cabinet had so much mold and mildew that after sanding and treating, I decided to Kilz it and paint.

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    #1207 74 days ago

    Skipping stencils for now, will come back to them at a later date. Unfortunately, my budget got eaten up by fumigation and materials to build a new back box.

    Got the relay board back in and the playfield so paint touch up can begin.

    Not much but it's progress!

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    #1208 74 days ago

    Just getting started taking apart and cleaning reels, spraying the back glass with triple thick, and getting dirt off the playfield...

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    #1209 72 days ago

    Just about done with a client's Bally Flip Flop. I found a few hints at previous servicing, but nothing done correctly. This one got the full treatment, and should be a strong contender for continuing the EM tradition for many years to come.

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    #1210 72 days ago
    Quoted from Dono:

    Just about done with a client's Bally Flip Flop. I found a few hints at previous servicing, but nothing done correctly. This one got the full treatment, and should be a strong contender for continuing the EM tradition for many years to come.
    [quoted image]

    Let's see the after pics too.

    #1211 72 days ago
    Quoted from Ballypin:

    Let's see the after pics too.

    Unfortunately I didn't take any before/ after pix on this one.

    #1212 72 days ago

    I'm finishing up a Gemini in the next week then you'll be seeing it on the Pinside Market

    10
    #1213 72 days ago
    Quoted from stashyboy:

    Working on the backside of my current project, Flipper Cowboy. They really stuffed a lot of components on it. The two trip banks are quite heavy. Over the next couple decades, they greatly improve the design and layout to make it much easier to service as well as initial build. Lots of cold solder joints. Built on a Monday?
    [quoted image]

    Finish putting this back together today. Very happy with how it came out, pretty game. Now I just need to work on troubleshooting the start sequence Etc.

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    #1214 72 days ago

    Cowpoke playfield touch-up, 1st pass. Repainting about 75%

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    #1215 72 days ago

    I am waiting on my schematics to arrive, but I did a little work on Jacks Open today. The 2nd chute (W) relay was firing continuously and the motor never stopped. After pulling about $4 worth of pennies, dimes, quarters, and a couple slugs from the coin chute, I was able to figure out that a switch in the coin mech needed to be adjusted. Considering this is my first EM, and my troubleshooting to date only includes watching a couple hours of videos and reading through pinrepair.com, I was pretty proud of myself.

    I still have plenty of work to do with possible ball unit and target reset issues. I'll probably have to wait until the schematics arrive to try to tackle those.

    Does anyone know where one might buy a 25v 15a fuse? Although hard to read, I think the current fuse in this holder is not correct, but I cannot find this tube online anywhere.

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    11
    #1216 71 days ago
    Quoted from Dono:

    That's really in poor condition, kudos for you to bring it back from the dead; a TON of work for sure, good luck!

    Update on the Bally Mystic shuffle bowler. After cleaning every mech in the score box in evap o rust last winter, I didn’t do much over the spring and summer. I was kind of afraid to plug it in to be honest. I finally got back to it. I put a new cord on it and let it rip. All score wheels reset as did the frame counter and the player counter. I still have lots to sort out, but it’s looking much more promising now!

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    #1217 71 days ago
    Quoted from nomo:

    Update on the Bally Mystic shuffle bowler. After cleaning every mech in the score box in evap o rust last winter, I didn’t do much over the spring and summer. I was kind of afraid to plug it in to be honest. I finally got back to it. I put a new cord on it and let it rip. All score wheels reset as did the frame counter and the player counter. I still have lots to sort out, but it’s looking much more promising now! [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

    Nice job! Getting everything to reset is one of the major challenges. CONGRATS!

    #1218 71 days ago

    25v 15amp fuse: correct me if wrong but i think you can put any 15amp fuse with a higher rated voltage.

    #1219 71 days ago
    Quoted from nomo:

    Update on the Bally Mystic shuffle bowler. After cleaning every mech in the score box in evap o rust last winter, I didn’t do much over the spring and summer. I was kind of afraid to plug it in to be honest. I finally got back to it. I put a new cord on it and let it rip. All score wheels reset as did the frame counter and the player counter. I still have lots to sort out, but it’s looking much more promising now! [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

    I see 19 steppers in the photo. What was your estimate on labor for these? Amazing job by the way!!!

    #1220 71 days ago
    Quoted from kimbleseven:

    25v 15amp fuse: correct me if wrong but i think you can put any 15amp fuse with a higher rated voltage.

    It makes sense that you could use a higher voltage fuse, but not a lower voltage. I thought since the fuse specified 25v that there may be a reason for the lower voltage. Perhaps so the fuse would fail if more than 25v entered the circuit? It doesn't seem likely since everything after the transformer should be stepped down unless I am missing something.

    #1221 70 days ago

    Jive Time - playfield pretty much stripped, first naptha cleaning pass done. Lots more to do, but thankfully the 70's era wood grain pop rings came off pretty cleanly. Freeze method didn't work at all, but heated with hair dryer and slowly peeled right off.

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    #1222 70 days ago
    Quoted from Playdium:

    I see 19 steppers in the photo. What was your estimate on labor for these? Amazing job by the way!!!

    Actually there are 28 steppers in the back alone. I could soak 3 or 4 at a time. 2 days in evapo rust, 1 day drying, 1 day for paint to dry, lots of hours reassembling each one. My estimate... it was a time consuming task!

    #1223 70 days ago
    Quoted from nomo:

    Update on the Bally Mystic shuffle bowler. After cleaning every mech in the score box in evap o rust last winter, I didn’t do much over the spring and summer. I was kind of afraid to plug it in to be honest. I finally got back to it. I put a new cord on it and let it rip. All score wheels reset as did the frame counter and the player counter. I still have lots to sort out, but it’s looking much more promising now! [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

    Keeney provided mechs for several pin manufacturers during the 50s and early 60s. Those red reels and corresponding mechs are definitely Keeney. They're unique and work well, but the plastic reels are delicate because of the ultra thin spindles.

    #1224 70 days ago
    Quoted from kimbleseven:

    25v 15amp fuse: correct me if wrong but i think you can put any 15amp fuse with a higher rated voltage.

    You are correct. Fuses open on amps. 15 amps is 15 amps. The voltage is a rating how much voltage the the fuse can withstand and still open without arcing across. Use a 15 amp with a higher voltage, and rest easy.

    #1225 69 days ago
    Quoted from Dono:

    Keeney provided mechs for several pin manufacturers during the 50s and early 60s. Those red reels and corresponding mechs are definitely Keeney. They're unique and work well, but the plastic reels are delicate because of the ultra thin spindles.

    I didn't know that - interesting!

    #1226 69 days ago

    There was a dirty spot on the underside of my Miss-O. Took awhile but i got it now I just have to put a few more wires back....

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    #1227 66 days ago

    Got this one working perfectly. The last issue was the 10k reel would stop at 1 about 10% of the time. So the game would not start. Turned out the arm that triggers the zero switch was just moving a little slow.

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    So now it's on to Screamo. Startup is a bit wonky. Often have to press the button a few times to get the score to zero. The scoring works fine during a game, bit the tic-tac-toe game has issues. Both lights comes on for each number, rather than just the one that you're trying to achieve. Hopefully start digging in this week.

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    #1228 66 days ago
    Quoted from jaytrem:

    Got this one working perfectly. The last issue was the 10k reel would stop at 1 about 10% of the time. So the game would not start. Turned out the arm that triggers the zero switch was just moving a little slow.
    [quoted image]
    So now it's on to Screamo. Startup is a bit wonky. Often have to press the button a few times to get the score to zero. The scoring works fine during a game, bit the tic-tac-toe game has issues. Both lights comes on for each number, rather than just the one that you're trying to achieve. Hopefully start digging in this week.
    [quoted image]

    Jolly Ride has some great colors... and boobs.

    #1229 66 days ago
    Quoted from Playdium:

    Jolly Ride has some great colors... and boobs.

    Funny, my wife pointed that out last night. I was too concerned about their unsafe coaster riding to notice.

    #1230 65 days ago

    Finished going through all the mechanicals and got the game to 99% working.
    -I rebuilt the flippers and replaced the coils since one was the entirely wrong coil wired poorly and wrong bushing that lead the playfield rub (a real hack job) and converted the goofy make/break EOS switches to the usual normally closed ones.
    -I replaced the missing 100 point bell striker from the back of the cabinet and remounted the bell.
    -I replaced the missing coin mech for 5, 10, and 25 cents and got it working.
    -I took apart and cleaned all 21 stepper units (16 score reels, player unit, match unit, replay unit, ball count, and the stepper under the color wheel on the upper playfield).
    -I made a new plastic color wheel for the one that was too far gone to use.
    -I replaced 2 of the stand up switches that were cracked.
    -I replaced the bumper caps and aprons that were badly worn and all of the roll over targets.
    -The playfield was in pretty decent shape so I just waxed the crap out of it without any touch up.
    -The apron was in surprisingly good shape after I cleaned it up and only needed some new cards printed up.

    Last thing I'm waiting on is a part order for the automatic ball gate and it will be done. As it is, it plays great and is a ton of fun.

    Next job is to attack the cabinet to bring it back to life as well as clean up the front legs and coin door. I bought replacements for the back legs since one of them was badly bent. Luckily it was only the back legs, and the fronts were fine. I wasn't able to find anywhere that sells the 25" legs used on the front of the old drop cabinets.

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    #1231 65 days ago

    Waiting on the clear to dry to finish leveling and sanding for cowpoke. Stripped my quick draw cabinet to start restore in anticipation of a new reproduction playfield from Wade Krause.

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    #1232 65 days ago

    Replaced all the bumpers on my recently acquired Old Chicago. Skirts were chipping off and caps were faded. Complete replacements all around.

    Got that done but the first bumper being done must have had the skirt tip hit the spoon switch and kaboom it fractured. The other four don't look real good so I'm going to replace them all and that will be that, but had to order them in. First EM I've ever had with those plastic spoons.

    Not an EM but redid all the drop target springs and installed an all in one Pascal Janin board in my Joker Poker. He does such great work and really makes those System 1 games step up in class.

    #1233 65 days ago
    Quoted from John_in_NC:

    Waiting on the clear to dry to finish leveling and sanding for cowpoke. Stripped my quick draw cabinet to start restore in anticipation of a new reproduction playfield from Wade Krause.
    [quoted image][quoted image]

    That playfield turned out super nice. Great work!

    #1234 62 days ago
    Quoted from bigguybbr:

    That playfield turned out super nice. Great work!

    Amen.

    I am back to restoring the RF after I picked up a Flight 2000, so that I would have a pin that I could play while the RF is down. Wow, going from EM to SS is like going from acoustic to electric, such a different experience. I got side tracked with the F2K fixing a machine gunning flipper (which I first fixed by putting in an EM Bally flipper coil, but then switched out with a proper one After I learned that EM flipper coils in SS games are a bad idea) and a busted spinner gate arm. And I thought the EM schematics were crazy, but the F2K schematics are four times as crazy. But I got my first soldering done on the F2K flipper coil, so now I think I’m ready to go to town on the RF.

    I am leveling inserts and cleaning the playfield of the RF to get it ready for touch ups. Since I am going to clear coat it afterward, it is okay for the inserts to slightly cupped or lifted, right? The cupped ones get filled in, and the lifted ones will level out after a few layers of the clear, right? In the pics the first (closest to edge) insert is cupped, the middle is level, and the third (from the outside) is lifted. It is almost imperceptible to the eye, but it can be easily felt by touch.

    How do you get the pop bumper off this RF?

    john_in_nc: you say you touched up about 75 percent. It looks like you repainted whole blocks of color. I was thinking that I would have to do this as well on the RF, because it would likely not look right if I tried to match color to something off and faded and then tried to feather the touch up into the rest of the block of the same color? So I’m assuming you decide to just repaint entire blocks of color. Do you have a method for making the black boarder lines crisp?

    Also, here is a general question on playfield restoration: If you are not going to be restoring anything under the playfield, how do you decide what to leave on the playfield before you do the clear. Take the pop number for example. I could not figure out how to get it off. Maybe if I take it out, I end up with a stripped screw or thread. I don’t have to take it off to do the touch up because there is no touch up necessary near it. Can I leave it on and do the clear coat around it. What about the wire ball guides? I heard those are not easy to reinstall. Shouldn’t I be leaving as much on the playfield as possible?

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    #1235 62 days ago
    Quoted from tyking:

    Amen.
    I am back to restoring the RF after I picked up a Flight 2000, so that I would have a pin that I could play while the RF is down. Wow, going from EM to SS is like going from acoustic to electric, such a different experience. I got side tracked with the F2K fixing a machine gunning flipper (which I first fixed by putting in an EM Bally flipper coil, but then switched out with a proper one After I learned that EM flipper coils in SS games are a bad idea) and a busted spinner gate arm. And I thought the EM schematics were crazy, but the F2K schematics are four times as crazy. But I got my first soldering done on the F2K flipper coil, so now I think I’m ready to go to town on the RF.
    I am leveling inserts and cleaning the playfield of the RF to get it ready for touch ups. Since I am going to clear coat it afterward, it is okay for the inserts to slightly cupped or lifted, right? The cupped ones get filled in, and the lifted ones will level out after a few layers of the clear, right? In the pics the first (closest to edge) insert is cupped, the middle is level, and the third (from the outside) is lifted. It is almost imperceptible to the eye, but it can be easily felt by touch.
    How do you get the pop bumper off this RF?
    john_in_nc: you say you touched up about 75 percent. It looks like you repainted whole blocks of color. I was thinking that I would have to do this as well on the RF, because it would likely not look right if I tried to match color to something off and faded and then tried to feather the touch up into the rest of the block of the same color? So I’m assuming you decide to just repaint entire blocks of color. Do you have a method for making the black boarder lines crisp?
    Also, here is a general question on playfield restoration: If you are not going to be restoring anything under the playfield, how do you decide what to leave on the playfield before you do the clear. Take the pop number for example. I could not figure out how to get it off. Maybe if I take it out, I end up with a stripped screw or thread. I don’t have to take it off to do the touch up because there is no touch up necessary near it. Can I leave it on and do the clear coat around it. What about the wire ball guides? I heard those are not easy to reinstall. Shouldn’t I be leaving as much on the playfield as possible?
    [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

    I repaint any color with enough area damage that will require more than a dime size repair. The cowpoke had planking mainly in the yellow bottom half of the playfield, the white was almost brown in places as well. The darker blue was badly worn at the pops and the inserts so that color got the full repaint as well. All hand brush painted. Once all painting is completed it looks pretty ragged due to the brush marks but with a nice thick coat of clear it all flattens out perfectly. The remaining four or five colors only required microscopic touchups. As for raised or cupped inserts You MUST be sure they are secure to even consider not regluing them. Raised inserts always need to be reseated. Minor cupping can be filled. As for depopulating, no question everything must go, side rails included. You can’t sand a playfield smooth if there are objects remaining. To remove pops you take off the cap, there are two screws holding it to the playfield. Then unsolder the light socket and take pop ring nuts from the underside. To keep the black lines crisp after painting a color let it dry and gently clean any areas that encroach on the lines with a X-Acto knife and or wet Q-tip. I just did a BAB all yellow, blue, white and 1/2 the peach and red under pops done on this badly planked playfield. I ended up repainting the flipper area on cowpoke, failing to recreate the wood tone, I opted to cover the ugliness with a brown camouflage (let’s call it corral dirt Brown Waiting for the clear to cure before final sanding and polishing.
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    #1236 61 days ago
    Quoted from John_in_NC:

    Once all painting is completed it looks pretty ragged due to the brush marks but with a nice thick coat of clear it all flattens out perfectly.

    Thanks john_in_nc, is that like the effect of Krylon Triple Thick on backglass, where a thick coat gets absorbed into and softens up the paint? So you don’t sand down the brush bristle unevenness, and just let the clear coat even it out?

    #1237 61 days ago
    Quoted from tyking:

    Thanks john_in_nc, is that like the effect of Krylon Triple Thick on backglass, where a thick coat gets absorbed into and softens up the paint? So you don’t sand down the brush bristle unevenness, and just let the clear coat even it out?

    It doesn’t mix it merely smooths out the reflection of the uneven brush texture. Looks perfectly flat once the grooves are filled in with clear.

    #1238 61 days ago
    Quoted from John_in_NC:

    It doesn’t mix it merely smooths out the reflection of the uneven brush texture. Looks perfectly flat once the grooves are filled in with clear.

    John

    What are you using for clear coat?

    Alberto

    #1239 61 days ago
    Quoted from John_in_NC:

    As for raised or cupped inserts You MUST be sure they are secure to even consider not regluing them. Raised inserts always need to be reseated. Minor cupping can be filled. [quoted image]

    They just had a tape holding them in. I reseated them and they are secure in the sense that they only move when considerable force is applied. So they are good to go in the sense that the clear coat will essentially freeze them into where they are, right?

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    #1240 61 days ago

    WWW well on its way now. Just needs flippers done and score reels are super dirty.

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    #1241 61 days ago
    Quoted from tyking:

    They just had a tape holding them in. I reseated them and they are secure in the sense that they only move when considerable force is applied. So they are good to go in the sense that the clear coat will essentially freeze them into where they are, right?
    [quoted image]

    Don’t count on the clear being the glue, you’ll get moving inserts and chipping. Remove all loose (probably all) and reglue them. Good opportunity to level them.

    #1242 61 days ago
    Quoted from Peruman:

    John
    What are you using for clear coat?
    Alberto

    McFaddens lacquer.

    E9DDF371-15BE-40C3-A6D9-FA2688AE5D82 (resized).jpeg
    #1243 61 days ago
    Quoted from John_in_NC:

    McFaddens lacquer.
    [quoted image]

    what does the go for per quart?

    #1244 60 days ago
    Quoted from boilerman:

    what does the go for per quart?

    I forget it’s been years since I bought 8 qts. Down to my last one now. Time to resupply. I use at least a quart every playfield.

    #1245 60 days ago
    Quoted from John_in_NC:

    McFaddens lacquer.
    [quoted image]

    I tip my hat to you, John. That’s the good stuff, and in line with the original.
    I have heard that it is no longer available.

    Great work!
    Dave

    #1246 60 days ago
    Quoted from John_in_NC:

    McFaddens lacquer.
    [quoted image]

    are you spraying it on, or brushing it on?

    #1247 60 days ago
    Quoted from dgAmpGuy:

    I tip my hat to you, John. That’s the good stuff, and in line with the original.
    I have heard that it is no longer available.
    Great work!
    Dave

    Looks like they got bought out in 2010. Turns out the new company is in the town next to mine.

    #1248 59 days ago
    Quoted from John_in_NC:

    As for depopulating, no question everything must go, side rails included. You can’t sand a playfield smooth if there are objects remaining.
    [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
    [quoted image]

    I took a look at the thread “Best way to remove a ball guide?” Pry up with something and they just come right out? Sounds too easy. Am I expecting barbs? Is it going to difficult finding new ball guides? Thanks

    #1249 58 days ago
    Quoted from tyking:

    I took a look at the thread “Best way to remove a ball guide?” Pry up with something and they just come right out? Sounds too easy. Am I expecting barbs? Is it going to difficult finding new ball guides? Thanks

    I’ll put a big flat washer stack under the wire ball guide, alternately prying each end. Twist a large flat head screwdriver between the top washer and wire. Watch the playfield does not pull up with the wire.

    #1250 58 days ago
    Quoted from tyking:

    are you spraying it on, or brushing it on?

    Spray, you can’t brush lacquer clear over paint, it gets “hot” meaning it melts the prior coat. It’ll smear (I know I wrecked a really nice el dorado learning)

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    Flipper Parts
    Mircoplayfields
    € 339.00
    Displays
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    Playfield - Protection
    3D Tech. Pinball Parts
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    Super Skill Shot Shop
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    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
    ModFather Pinball Mods
    $ 999.00
    Pinball Machine
    Mircoplayfields
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    Gameroom - Decorations
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    The MOD Couple
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    Rocket City Pinball
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    Hardware
    Police Force Spinner Out of stock
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    $ 4.99
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    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
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    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
    ULEKstore
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    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
    The MOD Couple
    $ 495.00
    Cabinet - Armor And Blades
    MI Pinball Refinery
    $ 369.00
    Cabinet - Decals
    Mircoplayfields
    $ 4.49
    Electronics
    Yorktown Arcade Supply
    $ 38.00
    $ 36.00
    Playfield - Other
    Ramp-O-Matic
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    $ 11.95
    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
    ULEKstore
    $ 69.99
    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
    Lighted Pinball Mods
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