Chapel Hill, NC
Quoted from DK:Hey does anyone know the correct purple/red/yellow to touch up this playfield?
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That will require a custom mix, if you are color blind get a female to help (they are less prone to color blindness)
(Topic ID: 255737)
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"300"
Gottlieb, 1975-
Atlantis
Gottlieb, 1975
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Big Deal
Williams, 1977
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Black Jack EM
Bally, 1977
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Boomerang
Bally, 1974
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College Queens
Gottlieb, 1969
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Duotron
Gottlieb, 1974
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Flip-A-Card
Gottlieb, 1970
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Quoted from boilerman:each game will be different due to fading. you are just going to have to experiment
Fair enough. Thanks
Quoted from DK:Hey does anyone know the correct purple/red/yellow to touch up this playfield?
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I know each playfield, cab, and backglass will fade/yellow in its own way, but if you do come up with a decent match, please post it on the touch-up paint color thread. It could save another pinsider a lot of time if it works for them, too, or even if it’s close enough to provide a starting point for mixing:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-pinside-touch-up-paint-color-thread/page/2#post-5651019
Thanks to those who have already contributed to that thread.
Quoted from boilerman:each game will be different due to fading. you are just going to have to experiment
Correct, it's beyond rare to get a great match right out of the bottle. I restored an EM version of this title and had to match every PF color... age, fading, nicotine, and even ball swirls can change a color to some degree. I got the primary color Createx set, and went to town
... from what I remember, that yellow, at least to me was very difficult to match.
Quoted from EMsInKC:More Gigi progress. I need to shine the lockdown bar receiver a bit more and the coin chutes so the receiver is just sitting in place. Once the receiver is done I'll get the shooter in place too
Also got the 0-9 disc back in place. MikeO did some nice soldering work on some worn rivets. 26 wires to desolder. Fun!
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damn - that coin door just looks too good
Quoted from Dono:Correct, it's beyond rare to get a great match right out of the bottle. I restored an EM version of this title and had to match every PF color... age, fading, nicotine, and even ball swirls can change a color to some degree. I got the primary color Createx set, and went to town
... from what I remember, that yellow, at least to me was very difficult to match.
The yellows are tough plus yellow pigments just don't cover worth a damn. Another tough one is Gottieb's myriad shades of aquamarine. Nearly impossible to find a direct match. There are some. Reds are easier but in the main it's not common to get a match out of the bottle.
Quoted from dasvis:damn - that coin door just looks too good
Hot Rod Arcade work. I know the original door was not like that but I like the look. It's actual bright nickel not chrome. The only downside is if the door has even a small ring in it you will see it under certain lighting and angles. I only do it with a very straight door.
I got the receiver done and the coin chutes back in and the shooter in place. It's total silliness to do all this on parts nobody sees but with that brass plating I just can't help myself...
Quoted from DK:Hey does anyone know the correct purple/red/yellow to touch up this playfield?
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Mixing playfield colors is one of the most challenging arts of pin work. I've mixed twenty or more shades of a color just trying to match one. But like gambling, when you hit it perfect, you feel like a pinball god. LOL
Quoted from EMsInKC:The yellows are tough plus yellow pigments just don't cover worth a damn. Another tough one is Gottieb's myriad shades of aquamarine. Nearly impossible to find a direct match. There are some. Reds are easier but in the main it's not common to get a match out of the bottle.
Hot Rod Arcade work. I know the original door was not like that but I like the look. It's actual bright nickel not chrome. The only downside is if the door has even a small ring in it you will see it under certain lighting and angles. I only do it with a very straight door.
I got the receiver done and the coin chutes back in and the shooter in place. It's total silliness to do all this on parts nobody sees but with that brass plating I just can't help myself...
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Aquamarine indeed! Finish populating my latest restoration, also waiting for a nickel-plated lockbar receiver from Hot Rod arcade myself! 
20200623_182111 (resized).jpgQuoted from stashyboy:Aquamarine indeed! Finish populating my latest restoration, also waiting for a nickel-plated lockbar receiver from Hot Rod arcade myself!
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LOL if you're getting a plated receiver from them you're sicker than I am. Makes me feel less obsessed. Thanks.
Great job on that restoration too.
Surrey, BC
Just wrapped up this San Francisco (Mechanically, still thinking about touching up the PF a bit). Was awesome to work on tho, one of my first EM where the contacts were not sanded / filed down.. I was able to just clean them up with alchohol, nice and shiny!
If you are curious about San Francisco, please check out my video, would be great to have more feedback.
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Up now (working on), this great Seven up. Really not into the theme at all, but even partially working, I just love the way it plays.
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Quoted from John_in_NC:That will require a custom mix, if you are color blind get a female to help (they are less prone to color blindness)
"Get a female to help". HA, I can't get her to make the coffee.
1947 pre-flipper United Mexico... the game might be a snoozer, but it's a beauty. Too bad United opted out of producing pins after just a handful of flipper games. Would have been interesting to see what they could have done to compete with the big 3. Build quality is outstanding on these machines for the most part. I've enjoyed restoring it, and it's almost ready for me to play the first game since being put to pasture in the late 60s/early 70s.
IMG_4835 (resized).jpgIMG_4838 (resized).jpgIMG_4837 (resized).jpgQuoted from Dono:1947 pre-flipper United Mexico... the game might be a snoozer, but it's a beauty. Too bad United opted out of producing pins after just a handful of flipper games. Would have been interesting to see what they could have done to compete with the big 3. Build quality is outstanding on these machines for the most part. I've enjoyed restoring it, and it's almost ready for me to play the first game since being put to pasture in the late 60s/early 70s.
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I've never played a flipper less game. Can't imagine what that is like.
It is beautiful though.
Quoted from EMsInKC:I've never played a flipper less game. Can't imagine what that is like.
It is beautiful though.
Yeah, agreed...
What most folks don't know is that United pins had an in-ball bonus feature, avant-garde for mid to late 40s! These games were also geared to gambling, with a payoff button underneath the cabinet to set credit unit back to 0.
Someone wrote in pencil some high scores, date and the number of free games won underneath the cabinet... 55 games on 5/13/53! 43 games on 3/13/55! This game had quite the run - at least 8 years on site at a bowling alley in Dayton Ohio... not too shabby.
Quoted from Dono:Yeah, agreed...
What most folks don't know is that United pins had an in-ball bonus feature, avant-garde for mid to late 40s! These games were also geared to gambling, with a payoff button underneath the cabinet to set credit unit back to 0.
Someone wrote in pencil some high scores, date and the number of free games won underneath the cabinet... 55 games on 5/13/53! 43 games on 3/13/55! This game had quite the run - at least 8 years on site at a bowling alley in Dayton Ohio... not too shabby.
How’s the backglass?
Quoted from Murphdom:How’s the backglass?
It's quite nice, I'd say incredibly nice considering its age. No cracks, no crazing, not even at the bottom. A few very small almost unnoticeable scratches.. I'll post a lit up shot once I have the game reassembled; playfield is still on the rotisserie... only thing remaining are minor switch adjustments and lubing the bonus stepper and score motor.
I had one once, nice machine.
Quoted from Dono:It's quite nice, I'd say incredibly nice considering its age. No cracks, no crazing, not even at the bottom. A few very small almost unnoticeable scratches.. I'll post a lit up shot once I have the game reassembled; playfield is still on the rotisserie... only thing remaining are minor switch adjustments and lubing the bonus stepper and score motor.
Quoted from Dono:1947 pre-flipper United Mexico... the game might be a snoozer, but it's a beauty. Too bad United opted out of producing pins after just a handful of flipper games. Would have been interesting to see what they could have done to compete with the big 3. Build quality is outstanding on these machines for the most part. I've enjoyed restoring it, and it's almost ready for me to play the first game since being put to pasture in the late 60s/early 70s.
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So much sanding...this goon not only painted over the original paint, but they brushed one side and sprayed the other! Oh, and apparently this cabinet was an Expressway before it was repurposed for Time Zone...so I still have a few more layers to remove before the fresh primer goes on. Bottom needed replacing too.
20200627_125452 (resized).jpg20200627_154118 (resized).jpg20200627_163607 (resized).jpg20200627_170808 (resized).jpgQuoted from Iwasthebruce:So much sanding...this goon not only painted over the original paint, but they brushed one side and sprayed the other! Oh, and apparently this cabinet was an Expressway before it was repurposed for Time Zone...so I still have a few more layers to remove before the fresh primer goes on. Bottom needed replacing too.
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Have you considered using acetone to remove the paint? I haven’t repainted a cabinet (yet), but Jeff at Pinball Pimp stencils recommends using acetone to preserve the wood grain of the cabinet. https://www.facebook.com/groups/pinballenthusiasts/permalink/3240340585998846/
Has anyone in this group used acetone to strip paint off a cabinet?
Latest project, guess the title?
As for using acetone as a stripper, I avoid such toxic chemicals. Rarely use lacquer thinner either. If one is to use it definitely wear protective gear respirator and well-ventilated area gloves Etc. Citrus-based stripping is much safer though it does contain some water so therefore might also raise the grain of your cabinet. Plywood seems to have that effect more than solid wood in my experience. Of course stripping mechanically also includes its own risks such as lead paint especially.
20200627_161118 (resized).jpg20200627_124744 (resized).jpg20200627_124713 (resized).jpg20200625_172323 (resized).jpgQuoted from stashyboy:Latest project, guess the title?
As for using acetone as a stripper, I avoid such toxic chemicals. Rarely use lacquer thinner either. If one is to use it definitely wear protective gear respirator and well-ventilated area gloves Etc. Citrus-based stripping is much safer though it does contain some water so therefore might also raise the grain of your cabinet. Plywood seems to have that effect more than solid wood in my experience. Of course stripping mechanically also includes its own risks such as lead paint especially.
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I have used the citrus strip, my preferred method when dealing with two layers of paint.
Quoted from Vic_Camp:1962 Gottlieb Flipper Cowboy?
I'll give Vic credit for answering correctly though date of manufacture was actually 1961. 
Quoted from stashyboy:date of manufacture was actually 1961.
I also thought 1961, but nope. It was the beginning of 1962.
Quoted from stashyboy:I'll give Vic credit for answering correctly though date of manufacture was actually 1961.
my bad, Vic for the win!! Yes, that stuff all came from PBR, including repro lock bar ends!
Quoted from bluespin:Have you considered using acetone to remove the paint? I haven’t repainted a cabinet (yet), but Jeff at Pinball Pimp stencils recommends using acetone to preserve the wood grain of the cabinet. https://www.facebook.com/groups/pinballenthusiasts/permalink/3240340585998846/
Has anyone in this group used acetone to strip paint off a cabinet?
Hm, if I ever do another cabinet I may try the chemical technique. Sanding wasn't too bad, but it was still 2 days of labor (including the tear down). Honestly though, if I ever do another cabinet its got to be on a game I plan to keep for all time and not a flip like this one is intended for. Thanks for the advise, always good to consider other techniques and have options!
Bulli
Quoted from illawarra92:with stripping cabs why not use an orbital sander?
outside with the correct protective gear you can get them done in about an hour.
Yes, but the discussion about raising the grain is valid for this method. (I've had it happen)
Quoted from illawarra92:with stripping cabs why not use an orbital sander?
outside with the correct protective gear you can get them done in about an hour.
I did use an orbital...this cab had a "custom" paint job plus the original, plus the previous games paint as well...
I used a 5v 5inch orbital sander with 60 grit.
If I pressed too hard too fast, the paint would "gum up" instead of sand off.
Quoted from Iwasthebruce:If I pressed too hard too fast, the paint would "gum up" instead of sand off.
Most I haven't any problems, but the last bowler I went through I had the same problem. I'm not sure what type
of paint it was, but I had to paint strip, sand with 40 (and I never use 40) then sand with 60 just to get it smooth enough
to body fill and repaint. On almost all pins, arcade, bowlers, 60 grit does the trick..
Quoted from illawarra92:with stripping cabs why not use an orbital sander?
outside with the correct protective gear you can get them done in about an hour.
I’ve read people trying to restamp the serial numbers on cabinets after a repaint. Any concerns with sanding away too much of the cabinet in the serial number area?
Quoted from Mopar:Most I haven't any problems, but the last bowler I went through I had the same problem. I'm not sure what type
of paint it was, but I had to paint strip, sand with 40 (and I never use 40) then sand with 60 just to get it smooth enough
to body fill and repaint. On almost all pins, arcade, bowlers, 60 grit does the trick..
Ok, phew...that makes me feel better...I thought how the hell did this other guy sand one down in an hour!?!?!
More importantly, to me at least, how do y'all deal with termites? I'm going to try and kill them with heat today...but failing that I may just burn the cabinet and build a new one. Seems the cost of fumigation is higher than the cost of lumber right now.
Florida is tough for termites. I send all my games to the exterminator. He has a sealed vault that he uses once a week. It cost me $95 for each game. I think that is cheap compared to what it would cost if they got into my house. Most folks roll the dice, but for me it's not worth the risk.
Quoted from Iwasthebruce:More importantly, to me at least, how do y'all deal with termites? I'm going to try and kill them with heat today...but failing that I may just burn the cabinet and build a new one. Seems the cost of fumigation is higher than the cost of lumber right now.
Silver streak is right, for 100$ it’s the smart thing to do... no other way to do it IMO.
Quoted from Dono:Silver streak is right, for 100$ it’s the smart thing to do... no other way to do it IMO.
I found a place, closest one is 1.5 hours drive...but y'all are right, best to get it done right and be done with it! Delays my project by a week, but thats better than a possible termite infestation.
Thank you for the advice!
Domino is disassembled. After a thorough vacuuming and wipe-down, I'm working on putting it back together. The cabinet is glued back together, the backbox is getting fixed, and the board where the transformer sits is getting cleaned and sorted out. Cleaning and checking all of the mechs and switches. The backbox board and the playfield will get the same treatment.
Tracing paper has been ordered to make the stencils prior to stripping the cabinet (the paint is flaking off - the wallpaper that this machine was wrapped in did a number on the paint) and re-painting it. I have never done a strip and re-paint so this will be a learning experience. I'm spending alot of time reading about stenciling cabinets. I will have to make my own stencils since they are not available commercially.
Should be fun.
_27 (resized).jpg_25 (resized).jpg_15 (resized).jpgI sure am glad this was in the packet that came with the Chicago Coin Juke Box I just got! You know how hard it can be to get replacement CC parts. Now I can feel confident as I go through it, because it needs a little work.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgLooks like the same pattern as spin wheel I did a couple of repaints on. Relatively Easy pattern to replicate.
Quoted from Peruman:Domino is disassembled. After a thorough vacuuming and wipe-down, I'm working on putting it back together. The cabinet is glued back together, the backbox is getting fixed, and the board where the transformer sits is getting cleaned and sorted out. Cleaning and checking all of the mechs and switches. The backbox board and the playfield will get the same treatment.
Tracing paper has been ordered to make the stencils prior to stripping the cabinet (the paint is flaking off - the wallpaper that this machine was wrapped in did a number on the paint) and re-painting it. I have never done a strip and re-paint so this will be a learning experience. I'm spending alot of time reading about stenciling cabinets. I will have to make my own stencils since they are not available commercially.
Should be fun.
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Quoted from John_in_NC:Looks like the same pattern as spin wheel I did a couple of repaints on. Relatively Easy pattern to replicate.
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Nice! It is the same pattern - I have not done a stencil before. If you don't mind, can I send you a PM with some questions?
Regards,
Alberto
No stencil, I trace the pattern on thick mil clear plastic, use as a guide for painters tape placement. You only need trace one side left or right as the opposite side is a mirror image, just flip it over.
Quoted from Peruman:Nice! It is the same pattern - I have not done a stencil before. If you don't mind, can I send you a PM with some questions?
Regards,
Alberto
Quoted from Catch86:Well, here we go. Let the fun begin? Ughhhh...
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That should keep you busy for awhile.
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