Quoted from SteveinTexas:Love the game.
I'm primarily into add-a-ball, but will eventually go through the Slick Chick
and probably the Gigi also, but I don't often hear much said about Gigi..
(Topic ID: 255737)
Linked Games
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Flip-A-Card
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Overland Park, KS
Quoted from SteveinTexas:I have my Slick Chick in perfect playing condition. It can be really tough if you play it without thought. You got to hit the top lanes to get points and need to hit the top target as often as possible. Then concentrate on lighting the Slick and Chick for bonus points. There is other rewards for replays but hard to get. Last thing you may need to remove some wire from the bumper coils to keep them lively. If not your game will not be long. Love the game.
Steve has it spot on regarding game play. The pops need to be active enough to provide proper balanced action. On my game I removed 2.5 to 3 full wrap layers from all of the pop bumper coils and it brought it back into balance. Not so much of an impact that the game plays itself, but to the point that you get a hit to the top center target once or twice a game. I suggest you play your game first to define if the play is adequate. Once the pops power is in balance the game is a blast to play.
Quoted from MikeO:Steve has it spot on regarding game play. The pops need to be active enough to provide proper balanced action. On my game I removed 2.5 to 3 full wrap layers from all of the pop bumper coils and it brought it back into balance. Not so much of an impact that the game plays itself, but to the point that you get a hit to the top center target once or twice a game. I suggest you play your game first to define if the play is adequate. Once the pops power is in balance the game is a blast to play.
I've played two games, upper 200's - mid 300's - but that could be my playing ability..lol seemed to drain down the middle tho was my main issue. But I'm still working on her and not even leveled yet. Pop's seemed powerful enough, we'll see.
I'm playing her by manually rotating the score motor to get it to start. Most of what I've found by searching here on Pinside is about the Score Motor continuously running. My issue is the opposite :
Game – 1963 Slick Chick
I usually get the games I find all working, then clean them up. In this case, it was so filthy, I had to clean it up first. In doing so, I’d check every now & then if things worked (switches, lights, etc) - starting the game by rotating the score motor manually , and mostly got everything working as I went. She’s cleaned up and I got a new backglass. Can play the five balls and all's well. Still have other problems tho -
When I hit the start button (with credits shown) the Hold relay pulls in and PF and Backbox lights all come on, and the SB (Start ) relay pulls in, but nothing after that, no score motor turning, nuttin
I can then manually turn the Score Motor 2 to 4 times (varies)– at 90 deg each, and this gets it to start a game. (All plays well after that)
I do notice this game has 5 balls and there are two trough switches – one for the 4th ball and one for the 5th ball. I thought to show game over when both are closed?) But after all balls are played, I can still hit the pop’s, slings, etc and it adds points - but if I hit a target or lane roll over switch – it then makes the core motor turn 90 deg, and it then goes to game over. (Not sure how - after that last ball is played, how it would then be able to actually end a game with no balls to hit the targets– so thinking these issues are tied somehow?)
To get it to “game over” – the Match Relay activates (once both of these 4th & 5th ball switches are closed) and Game over Relay activates once the score motor turns - only after hitting a target or lane switch.
I can then hit the start button again, but see only the SB relay activate – like that relay should be telling the score motor to rotate one full 360 deg turn, but somethings not telling it to…ugh
I've checked the wires, connections, switches on those relays noted above, and cleaned the steppers (credit, 0-9, bonus), can't find the problem
So it's not starting or really ending correctly, thinking it may be the same issue?
Quoted from MikeO:On my game I removed 2.5 to 3 full wrap layers from all of the pop bumper coils
I did that with Ballys, and it made it like night and day.
I tried it a couple times on Gottlieb slings, and I didn't get
any improvement. However, moving it to high tap usually
did the trick..
Quoted from MikeO:Not so much of an impact that the game plays itself, but to the point that you get a hit to the top center target once or twice a game.
Less coil makes it stronger?
Quoted from undrdog:Less coil makes it stronger?
Less wire equals less resistance = more power.
Compare it to a flipper coil: the end of stroke switch on a flipper is jumpering out a portion of winding when you flip so the flipper has power. Once the EOS opens up it brings into the circuit the hold winding(more wire) to keep low power on the flipper and keep the coil from burning up.
Perth - West Aus
Hey jaytrem, your Kings woody looks really good. Well done. Any chance you could put up a good clear photo of the backglass on it? I'd love to see it. Thanks
Quoted from Hyperball91:Hey jaytrem, your Kings woody looks really good. Well done. Any chance you could put up a good clear photo of the backglass on it? I'd love to see it. Thanks
Thanks, it's a fun game too. Nice to have all the bugs worked out. Glass is almost perfect, little wear by the credit reel.
1589631390980164586949 (resized).jpgQuoted from Nikrox2:Shay - one for my 1961 Double Barrel
Now that's a beautiful back glass!
I would like to come across one of those games to add to my collection.
's-heer Hendrikskinderen
Quoted from jaytrem:...Glass is almost perfect, little wear by the credit reel.[quoted image]
Thanks jaytrem. It looks great. I'd love to get myself a woodrail one day. They're a great piece of pin history.
Quoted from o-din:Decals would be great if it isn't too much trouble. I had wondered how they would go on those rounded caps though.
I had also considered hand painting, but it would be too hard to make them look all the same without some kind of stencils.
Hi O-din,
I finally got to the bumper decal.
I made a test see below to see how the decal would sit (letters are too thick and need more positioning). This pic is 15 mins after placing on the bumper cap. So not sitting tightly yet but the letters are straight and clear.
Bumper Test (resized).JPG The next two snapshots are the finished art with two different reds. (can make more to get color right). I have made letter size pdf's with 15 cap decals so make as many mistakes as you need (my way to get things right).
Bumper 3 (resized).JPG Bumper 2 (resized).JPG
1. Review the lettering (I used IPDB).
2. Review the color
I had one inkjet sheet left to make the decal test.
1. I sprayed lightly with Krylon triple thick crystal clear glaze and then a heavy spray an hour later to water proof the ink.
2. Set printer to the best settings and glossy paper.
3. Cut out this morning and made additional very slight cake 'slice'cuts in the clear areas to anticipate some room to straighten on a curved surface.
4. Soaked in water for 10 mins and placed on cap.
5. See test pic.
I actually believe this is better quality than the laser decals i have been using. Laser decals are water proof and so easy to apply but the color may be less.
Quoted from Nikrox2:What's the car in the background there "Mopar"? Looks nice! Wash that rascal!
BTW - got the new backglass in from Shay for the Slick Chick It is beautiful! Amazing job! Actually bought two off of Shay - one for my 1961 Double Barrel and one for the Slick Chick. Both were delivered within 3 days of payment and they both look great! Hat's off to another backglass producer!
[quoted image][quoted image]
You got a Double Barrel glass from Shay? Did he reproduce them?
Quoted from AlexF:You got a Double Barrel glass from Shay? Did he reproduce them?
Yes. And both of these are as they say so Much better in person. Colors pop and crisp. I keep looking for flakes and holes (just about thought it was normal after so long ). Just makes the machines. Especially the Double Barrel. (IMO)
Still working on Heat Wave. All four score reels are cleaned and work well. Next up is the thermometer unit and painting the band that shows the temperature.
Then I can get to the playfield. It’s filthy.
My cousin and her husband finished re-stenciling the C37 cabinet this past weekend. While it might not have been to the high standards of some folks, we are very pleased with the end result.
1BE0AB3B-CB14-4E47-85ED-4EFFDA97E5F4 (resized).jpeg3914F1B8-9C1C-4627-A686-0152DBB32A02 (resized).jpeg
IMG_2095 (resized).jpgIMG_2092 (resized).jpg611250965 (resized).jpgIMG_2024 (resized).jpg
7C66B0BE-9BA1-4939-86A6-55550C3187C6 (resized).jpegAlmost finished with painting Big Hit (green is done; orange still to go).
While I was at it, I repainted my Atlantis head (the head had been damaged about two years ago, and I finally got around
to putting a new face on it recently) over the weekend.
CA353FE0-13E5-4DE8-B7CA-5CAB3BBC3E54 (resized).jpeg1A27ED38-F603-4C3D-B3B9-6C01CB33F001 (resized).jpegEBA46685-0CAE-4F84-8767-0EFB05867FC6 (resized).jpeg2222ED9D-8FF1-4776-9099-D1BA1FBE2BC8 (resized).jpeg9D3B1EEC-534B-4770-8260-091A4C28E5D4 (resized).jpeg1E07134D-506C-433A-85AB-649C6D25325D (resized).jpegBE5FCF91-5D1E-47C6-9309-DE2BFDAE9D61 (resized).jpeg1DE931F3-2BE8-466D-96BB-BAA6B70BF597 (resized).jpeg8050D74D-BA15-4B5E-B623-C85AF9313A26 (resized).jpeg8B4C8263-B8FE-4810-BC28-9C0B8AE35DAC (resized).jpegAAABCCE5-9010-4127-8A29-F39E943AF34B (resized).jpeg
Rebuilt the carousel roto-target on my King of Diamonds. It had become very sluggish, sometimes only shifting 1-2 cards.
I removed the pawl linkage with the pivot arm, thoroughly cleaned and lubricated it per factory instructions. I also cleaned and lightly lubed the rivets on the bakelite disc and finally, I put small washers in between the three screws on the 'spider' bracket and the bottom of the carousel. This had the effect of slightly 'raising' the level of the carousel from the rivet disc and therefore (in theory?) putting less pressure on the 'shoes' of the spring-loaded runners so there might be less resistance.
Very happy with the results, after a little adjustment of the spider the carousel runs smoothly and center-aligns every time!
Quoted from goldenboy232:Almost finished with painting Big Hit (green is done; orange still to go).
While I was at it, I repainted my Atlantis head (the head had been damaged about two years ago, and I finally got around
to putting a new face on it recently) over the weekend.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Nice splatter work on the wedge head. Looks real good!
Quoted from Playdium:Nice splatter work on the wedge head. Looks real good!
Thank you!
Quoted from goldenboy232:Almost finished with painting Big Hit (green is done; orange still to go).
While I was at it, I repainted my Atlantis head (the head had been damaged about two years ago, and I finally got around
to putting a new face on it recently) over the weekend.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
What method did you use to do the spattering?
Quoted from dasvis:What method did you use to do the spattering?
I've used one similar to this with great effect. Although I got it on Amazon.
Quoted from dasvis:What method did you use to do the spattering?
I dip a small wire brush into some black lacquer paint that I’ve poured out on a paper plate. I put on an old leather glove and flick the brush with my thumb. (Very high tech!)
I do it first against a piece of cardboard 3-4 times to get the bigger globs of paint off first and then when I start to see it the size I like I turn and do it toward the cabinet or head.
Quoted from mark532011:Picked up a decent domino. I am intrigued by the gigantic roto-domino target thingie. It’s not currently running but I am confident. The big center plastic has broken and sagged down, I will have to make a replacement.
[quoted image]
domino is a fun game, good luck in getting her up and running.
these may help, pinball rescue sell repro plastics and decals for the roto targets
Quoted from goldenboy232:I dip a small wire brush into some black lacquer paint that I’ve poured out on a paper plate. I put on an old leather glove and flick the brush with my thumb. (Very high tech!)
I do it first against a piece of cardboard 3-4 times to get the bigger globs of paint off first and then when I start to see it the size I like I turn and do it toward the cabinet or head.
I'm not smart enough to use a leather glove... Thanks for the tip!
As soon as I get my Royal Guard cab base coat done I will use it.
Played a 4-player game for the heck of it on Fast Draw last night. Shoulda won 2 credits on player 3, got nuthin'. Tested all players, only 3 wasn't giving score replays. Pulled its 1K decagon - common wire had broken loose from the circuit board. Wish the cause of every malfunction just popped up in front of my face like that!
Quoted from mark532011:Picked up a decent domino. I am intrigued by the gigantic roto-domino target thingie. It’s not currently running but I am confident. The big center plastic has broken and sagged down, I will have to make a replacement.
[quoted image]
I may still have a plastic I made to replace that, yours for the cost of shipping. I'll check tonight if it is still on hand.
Quoted from mark532011:Picked up a decent domino.
Really a fun game. Of all the EM games I've owned, I think it has the best pop-bumper arrangement for fast-action. Good luck with it!
Starting a Cowpoke complete restore:
Playfield: There is a lot of planking requiring extensive touch-ups/insert leveling/clearcoating
Cabinet: Structural repairs, repaint to original, renew hardware, new lockdown endcaps, new Ron Webb Repro backglass
Mechanics: Mechanically it looks to be in great shape, just needs a complete & thorough cleaning adjusting and repairs as required.
I am starting off on this restore in my newly reorganized workshop so I might have a chance of being somewhat efficient. For this one I will attempt to accurately clock the hours I spend. So far 4 hours stripping the playfield to wood and 1st and 2nd pass cleaning.
cp4 (resized).jpgIMG_0885 (resized).JPGIMG_1735 (resized).JPGIMG_1736 (resized).JPGIMG_1737 (resized).JPGStripped PF (resized).jpgIMG_1753 (resized).JPG
IMG_1758 (resized).JPGQuoted from mark532011:Picked up a decent domino. I am intrigued by the gigantic roto-domino target thingie. It’s not currently running but I am confident. The big center plastic has broken and sagged down, I will have to make a replacement.
[quoted image]
Plastic, free.
20200520_174337 (resized).jpg
Lyon
Quoted from kangourou:Work in progress for my Canada Dry
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Wow! The Playfield looks excellent underneath. Lot of work and patience to remove that mylar but worth it!
Quoted from stashyboy:Wow! The Playfield looks excellent underneath. Lot of work and patience to remove that mylar but worth it!
More amazing is the fact that mylar was installed basically day one.
How common was that in France? That never occurred in the US.
Quoted from stashyboy:Wow! The Playfield looks excellent underneath. Lot of work and patience to remove that mylar but worth it!
30 minutes to peel off the mylar and to clean the Pf (I use dangerous Toluene).
Quoted from MikeO:More amazing is the fact that mylar was installed basically day one.
How common was that in France? That never occurred in the US.
This Pf is in excellent condition but the mylar was not installed basically day one.
Look at around the bumpers.
What can I say is that the mylar was an industrial "Playfield Protector".
Quoted from kangourou:Look at around the bumpers.
I saw that. But that game came with the dry mylar protectors from the factory. So the red adhesive is something someone applied later on to keep it from getting worse. Maybe the dry mylar rings got damaged.
But the rest of the playfield looks like they put it on day one. That never happened here.
Quoted from MikeO:I saw that. But that game came with the dry mylar protectors from the factory. So the red adhesive is something someone applied later on to keep it from getting worse. Maybe the dry mylar rings got damaged.
But the rest of the playfield looks like they put it on day one. That never happened here.
Sorry, but I have never seen this on the 5 other Canada Dry that I restored.
Bumper rings : When I removed the red adhesive, the mylar underneath was in good condition.
IMO red adhesive and mylar were put in the same time.
Crossfield, AB
Finally got around to cleaning up my 1969 Williams Suspense.
Full topside teardown and cleaning/wax. Cleaned all coil assemblies and added new sleeves. Rebuilt pop bumpers with new skirts.
New rubbers and wax make me worried about smashing posts and plastics! It plays FAST!
Added a hand full of leds.... as the pf is so dark! They dont look right... but you can see the ball!
Cheers from Canada!
20200524_111431 (resized).jpg20200524_114859 (resized).jpgFinally got my Beat the Clock back together. Still working on my To-Do list but it plays pretty well as is. But man, if things weren't gummed up from decades old "lubricant". Worst steppers I have ever worked on.
btcbg (resized).jpgbtcpf (resized).jpgbtcpops (resized).jpgIMG_20200522_184854 (resized).jpgQuoted from ReallifePin:Finally got my Beat the Clock back together. Still working on my To-Do list but it plays pretty well as is. But man, if things weren't gummed up from decades old "lubricant". Worst steppers I have ever worked on.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Wow! That game is beautiful and it's on my wish list. I'll go ahead and call dibs on it for what it's worth. 
20200516_143527 (resized).jpg20200516_143541 (resized).jpg20200516_140948 (resized).jpg20200516_140941 (resized).jpg20200525_131755 (resized).jpg20200525_131730 (resized).jpg20200526_154433 (resized).jpg
Continuing the Gigi restoration. While the playfield is off for touchups and clear I'm cleaning and replacing all the mechs underneath. Today got the ball trough done. It's usually full of crud and this one is no exception. Got the rollover wires tumbling to shine them ipi.
Head and cab sanded down. Head is filled and finish sanded and primed and painted and webbed and today first stencil work done. Cab is filled and awaiting finish sanding
Quoted from EMsInKC:[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Continuing the Gigi restoration. While the playfield is off for touchups and clear I'm cleaning and replacing all the mechs underneath. Today got the ball trough done. It's usually full of crud and this one is no exception. Got the rollover wires tumbling to shine them ipi.
Head and cab sanded down. Head is filled and finish sanded and primed and painted and webbed and today first stencil work done. Cab is filled and awaiting finish sanding
That Bob on the cabinet sure seems to get around. I think he also etched the cab on a Flying Chariots I worked on last year!
We’re still working on the exterior of the centigrade 37. Does anyone here have a suggestion on how to straighten the edge of the coin door?
Also, any specific material or procedure for getting rid of the fine scratches?
490BB7C2-B30C-4DF3-B83C-3A78EB65FA46 (resized).jpeg7F23CCF0-F74D-4AE0-9557-82A3BBE03A83 (resized).jpegA121DD15-379A-414D-805B-C592CFA5A905 (resized).jpegFFF61F18-9D38-45AA-A1C7-0F8C50837B8C (resized).jpegQuoted from wolverinetuner:That Bob on the cabinet sure seems to get around. I think he also etched the cab on a Flying Chariots I worked on last year!
The game came from Iowa so who knows?
Here's the coin door from it completed. This is the original door replated by Chris Royalty at Hot Rod Arcade...20200526_195831 (resized).jpg
20200526_195935 (resized).jpg
Quoted from EEE:We’re still working on the exterior of the centigrade 37. Does anyone here have a suggestion on how to straighten the edge of the coin door?
Also, any specific material or procedure for getting rid of the fine scratches?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
If you have some kind of anvil you can tap that down with a hammer to straighten it. Take your time and go easy.
Fine scratches use 1500 grit wet/dry sandpaper. Keep going up to maybe 3000 grit. Takes some work.
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