(Topic ID: 255737)

what e.m. are you working on right now?

By illawarra92

4 years ago


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There are 4,129 posts in this topic. You are on page 12 of 83.
#551 4 years ago
Quoted from Mopar:

I was already aware of it not having a backglass, but years back when this showed up on a trade in,
I knew I didn't get the best of the deal with it having no back door, and the coin door lock was jig-sawed
out. But bit the bullet. Turned out to be a harder bite after opening it up earlier this month.
Already seeing the surprises on the outside, I should have expected.
Fortunately I had another machine I wasn't so sure what I was going to do with, but for sure it's a parts machine
now.. It plays fine, just need to do a little more cosmetic work..
[quoted image]
[quoted image][quoted image]

Crikes.

#552 4 years ago
Quoted from Bax1:

Working on my first em. Could use some guidance on what I’m doing please
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bow-and-arrow-reset-credit-and-other-issues

http://www.pinrepair.com/em/

Pretty much all you need is in here. Print it out, read it, learn it, live it.

#553 4 years ago
Quoted from Mopar:

Actually, had my work cut out for me. Another few hours, and she'll be 100%.
That yellow machine was a spare that I had around way before the one I fixed up.
I went through and used the yellow machines component board.
btw: you're package is going out first thing in the morning..

Great. Im really looking forward to seeing it

#554 4 years ago

I already posted what it is, no looking back but here's a hint

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
#555 4 years ago

Take a guess.

76BBC54A-1AB6-4DEC-A901-53D7D8FE6166 (resized).jpeg76BBC54A-1AB6-4DEC-A901-53D7D8FE6166 (resized).jpeg
#556 4 years ago

Just picked up a nice functional Star-Jet. Just a few minor things to fix for it to be in fully working condition. One thing I am doing now is replacing all of these rusty lamp sockets on the playfield (which keeps burning out 10amp fuses). Also, the multiball function is not working - balls lock, but won't unlock (kicker not kicking). Cosmetics are pretty good for such a rare bird.

Quoted from Mopar:

Nice pick up! Good player when playing a 2 player game..

Thanks for the pic, just got the schematic in the mail today! Now I need to find the relays. Any chance you have a guide to where they are in the cabinet? My Williams machine has a Workshop Manual that I found (helps a lot). Anything like that for Bally machines?

#557 4 years ago
Quoted from John_in_NC:

I already posted what it is, no looking back but here's a hint

I think I now remember you posting, but not before thinking that that shade of green
resembles my Flipper Pool.

#558 4 years ago
Quoted from Tonup69:

Now I need to find the relays. Any chance you have a guide to where they are in the cabinet?

Your bottom board is missing it's Relay Labels? How about the Head's?
I believe most if not all of mine are there. If that's what you'd like, I can
take pics tomorrow..

#559 4 years ago
Quoted from Gorgar666:

Take a guess.

I guess John should have takin' the Lady in blue to the movies.

#560 4 years ago
Quoted from Gorgar666:

Take a guess.[quoted image]

Great pin, but pull those damn LED's out of there!

Looks like a strip club on the bad end of town.

#561 4 years ago

Working on two Gottliebs. A “Happy Clown” (why did they cut a hole in the backglass? Why?). And a Bowling Queen. Both had several layers of dirt and grime. Virtually had to clean them before finishing the mechanical repairs. But almost there !

4EF052A9-3F67-47EB-BE7F-4EE11F51FC45 (resized).jpeg4EF052A9-3F67-47EB-BE7F-4EE11F51FC45 (resized).jpeg5D81F80B-C7D5-47BD-9642-0592017D592D (resized).jpeg5D81F80B-C7D5-47BD-9642-0592017D592D (resized).jpeg64FC3E3F-3603-415D-8007-636F97FE98AD (resized).jpeg64FC3E3F-3603-415D-8007-636F97FE98AD (resized).jpeg663F3D8A-0EFC-45A1-BD65-23312FD26FC3 (resized).jpeg663F3D8A-0EFC-45A1-BD65-23312FD26FC3 (resized).jpeg
#562 4 years ago
Quoted from Mopar:

Your bottom board is missing it's Relay Labels? How about the Head's?
I believe most if not all of mine are there. If that's what you'd like, I can
take pics tomorrow..

Inside the cabinet the labels are covered in dirt. Even if they weren’t, they are so close together that they are hard to read. Trying to make myself a reference chart so I can track down the kicker and target relays. Photos would help!

#563 4 years ago
Quoted from Nikrox2:

(why did they cut a hole in the backglass? Why?)

At least it possibly the least intrusive place.
Maybe there was a bb shot or crack/chip that they wanted to try and dissuade from extending further.
But more likely just random vandalism or a poor attempt to get to replay unit to gain free games.

#564 4 years ago

HELP me out here with a rebuild of the Score Motor for Gottlieb Show Boat). I took a picture bu forgot to save it thus I am doing this from memory. First question is ... the Commutator , does this engage once power is sent? As you can see from my picture the Commutator is half in and half out. On the top of the Commutator is two prongs that, I believe, engage into the gear.
Second, there's a small fiber washer that I believe went on the second gear in from the motor but now wondering if it was to go to the Commutator to protect the top of the Commutator once engaged, if I am correct in my first question.
AE81E5D0-24E5-4FA6-B977-35FCEE429A85 (resized).jpegAE81E5D0-24E5-4FA6-B977-35FCEE429A85 (resized).jpeg

#565 4 years ago
Quoted from Tonup69:

Trying to make myself a reference chart so I can track down the kicker and target relays. Photos would help!

I was going to pm, but in case it's needed at another time.
The Bank Relay labels I think you can make out, but no way the board's Relays.
They're pretty clean, but I myself had difficulty reading between the blades. So I'll
list them with the first (1) being in the front (closest to the coin door).
(1)-25 cent. (2)-2nd Coin (3)-Anti-Cheat (4)-Match (5)Hold (6)-Outhole (7)-#1 Hole
(8)-#2 Hole (9)-#1 Target (10)-#2 Target (11)-#1 & 2 Target (12)-50 Point (13)-Shoot Again
(14)-#2 Hold

IMG_0126 (resized).JPGIMG_0126 (resized).JPGIMG_0128 (resized).JPGIMG_0128 (resized).JPGIMG_0129 (resized).JPGIMG_0129 (resized).JPG
#566 4 years ago
Quoted from Mopar:

I was going to pm, but in case it's needed at another time.
The Bank Relay labels I think you can make out, but no way the board's Relays.
They're pretty clean, but I myself had difficulty reading between the blades. So I'll
list them with the first (1) being in the front (closest to the coin door).
(1)-25 cent. (2)-2nd Coin (3)-Anti-Cheat (4)-Match (5)Hold (6)-Outhole (7)-#1 Hole
(8)-#2 Hole (9)-#1 Target (10)-#2 Target (11)-#1 & 2 Target (12)-50 Point (13)-Shoot Again
(14)-#2 Hold[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

A lot of these are on Inkochnito site and if they're not you can send the pictures to him along with the measurements of the card/strips and he will make them up and add them to his site.

#567 4 years ago
Quoted from meSz:

A lot of these are on Inkochnito site and if they're not you can send the pictures to him along with the measurements of the card/strips and he will make them up and add them to his site.

Using the info from "MOPAR" I was able to make up a relay map. This is what I needed.

Relays (resized).pngRelays (resized).png
#568 4 years ago

Just to make it clear the above relay bank map is for a Bally Star Jet,
from the bottom board inside the cabinet,
in case anyone is searching for such years later.

Quoted from Tonup69:

Using the info from "MOPAR" I was able to make up a relay map.

#569 4 years ago

Good to see another Star Jet survived. Is the Playfield really bad, or is there just schmutz on the top glass? More pics, please.

#570 4 years ago

there is a word you don't get to use everyday

#571 4 years ago

Just finished Spanish Eyes. Tomorrow I will flip a coin to see which game is next: Fun Land Pinball or Haunted House Gun Game... I will probably wimp out and go with the Fun Land. The gun game is out of my comfort zone.

15
#572 4 years ago

My latest addition from late February is a 1968 Bally Rockmakers. I always start with cabinet work and this one is now 99% complete. At first glance, the cabinet appeared to be in very good original condition. Knowing this is nearly impossible on Bally's from '66 through '68, closer inspection revealed that the cabinet was actually repainted. A good cleaning with Krud Kutter and minor touch-ups with matching paints was quick work. Next came removal of all metal hardware for cleaning and polishing. Coin door was torn down, repainted and metal parts polished. Top glass frame was taken apart, cleaned (these things are always a gross mess), polished and new glass installed. New chrome legs and coin lock from PBR and flipper buttons from Marco finished the exterior.

Here is the before coin door picture
84940193_10162946710055483_6252683208505163776_o (resized).jpg84940193_10162946710055483_6252683208505163776_o (resized).jpg

Here are the after pictures
IMG_1320 (resized).JPGIMG_1320 (resized).JPGIMG_1321 (resized).JPGIMG_1321 (resized).JPGIMG_1322 (resized).JPGIMG_1322 (resized).JPGIMG_1323 (resized).JPGIMG_1323 (resized).JPGIMG_1324 (resized).JPGIMG_1324 (resized).JPGIMG_1325 (resized).JPGIMG_1325 (resized).JPGIMG_1326 (resized).JPGIMG_1326 (resized).JPGIMG_1327 (resized).JPGIMG_1327 (resized).JPG

My refinishing process for the top frame side rails and lockdown bar starts with a palm sander and 150 to 220 grit paper to remove scratches. Then step through 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1500, 2000 and 3000 grits. A quick cleanup and then to the buffing wheel with green compound. The final step is to hand buffing with 0000 steel wool with Mothers Mag polish. This last step is very messy so wear gloves. The result is a near mirror finish.

IMG_1328 (resized).JPGIMG_1328 (resized).JPG

I plan to order a new backglass from BGResto and add pincab protectors once I decide on color. The Nickel and Quarter coin plates are missing their entry chutes so I will eventually replace them once I source donor parts.

#573 4 years ago

Ballypin - looks great.

I recently replaced the playfield glass on my Fireball EM and that canopy was gross. Lots of used paper matchsticks fell out too.

#574 4 years ago
Quoted from Skidave:

Ballypin - looks great.
I recently replaced the playfield glass on my Fireball EM and that canopy was gross. Lots of used paper matchsticks fell out too.

Thanks. Yes, that is funny that every frame I have restored had matchsticks mingled in with all the beer / pop caked dirt. It takes a while, but those once-clear vinyl glass gaskets do clean up to a nice amber color.

#575 4 years ago
Quoted from aahgo:

Good to see another Star Jet survived. Is the Playfield really bad, or is there just schmutz on the top glass? More pics, please.

By your command....

Cabinet has some structural issues and the head needs to be rebuilt. Game plays OK, just minor things to fix.

StarJet_2020 (resized).jpgStarJet_2020 (resized).jpgPlay (resized).jpgPlay (resized).jpgGlass (resized).jpgGlass (resized).jpgHood (resized).jpgHood (resized).jpgcabinet (resized).jpgcabinet (resized).jpg
#576 4 years ago
Quoted from Ballypin:

Thanks. Yes, that is funny that every frame I have restored had matchsticks mingled in with all the beer / pop caked dirt. It takes a while, but those once-clear vinyl glass gaskets do clean up to a nice amber color.

Yes, those gaskets and my old tooth brush had a lot of time together. The glass shop where I got my glass made might have something close. I'll investigate once this COVID settles.

I didn't do anything other than clean my metal work and replace the old hardware. I dont fully restore and I don't mind some patina. Yours looks amazing.

#577 4 years ago
Quoted from Ballypin:

My latest addition from late February is a 1968 Bally Rockmakers. I always start with cabinet work and this one is now 99% complete. At first glance, the cabinet appeared to be in very good original condition. Knowing this is nearly impossible on Bally's from '66 through '68, closer inspection revealed that the cabinet was actually repainted. A good cleaning with Krud Kutter and minor touch-ups with matching paints was quick work. Next came removal of all metal hardware for cleaning and polishing. Coin door was torn down, repainted and metal parts polished. Top glass frame was taken apart, cleaned (these things are always a gross mess), polished and new glass installed. New chrome legs and coin lock from PBR and flipper buttons from Marco finished the exterior.
Here is the before coin door picture
[quoted image]
Here are the after pictures
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
My refinishing process for the top frame side rails and lockdown bar starts with a palm sander and 150 to 220 grit paper to remove scratches. Then step through 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1500, 2000 and 3000 grits. A quick cleanup and then to the buffing wheel with green compound. The final step is to hand buffing with 0000 steel wool with Mothers Mag polish. This last step is very messy so wear gloves. The result is a near mirror finish.
[quoted image]
I plan to order a new backglass from BGResto and add pincab protectors once I decide on color. The Nickel and Quarter coin plates are missing their entry chutes so I will eventually replace them once I source donor parts.

Where did you source your nickel/dime/quarter price inserts... I've had a brutal time sourcing those... would be a great item to repro, but I believe because the sides are not smooth (small lip surround), no one has given it a go yet.

#578 4 years ago
Quoted from MikeO:

What were they thinking?????

Mike, I think the answer is, they weren't.

This is guy who cuts all the wires on Jones plugs on complete steroids.

#579 4 years ago
Quoted from Ballypin:

My latest addition from late February is a 1968 Bally Rockmakers. I always start with cabinet work and this one is now 99% complete. At first glance, the cabinet appeared to be in very good original condition. Knowing this is nearly impossible on Bally's from '66 through '68, closer inspection revealed that the cabinet was actually repainted. A good cleaning with Krud Kutter and minor touch-ups with matching paints was quick work. Next came removal of all metal hardware for cleaning and polishing. Coin door was torn down, repainted and metal parts polished. Top glass frame was taken apart, cleaned (these things are always a gross mess), polished and new glass installed. New chrome legs and coin lock from PBR and flipper buttons from Marco finished the exterior.
Here is the before coin door picture
[quoted image]
Here are the after pictures
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
My refinishing process for the top frame side rails and lockdown bar starts with a palm sander and 150 to 220 grit paper to remove scratches. Then step through 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1500, 2000 and 3000 grits. A quick cleanup and then to the buffing wheel with green compound. The final step is to hand buffing with 0000 steel wool with Mothers Mag polish. This last step is very messy so wear gloves. The result is a near mirror finish.
[quoted image]
I plan to order a new backglass from BGResto and add pincab protectors once I decide on color. The Nickel and Quarter coin plates are missing their entry chutes so I will eventually replace them once I source donor parts.

That looks fabulous. Great job polishing it up. I have a 1968 Bally Surfers with all three chutes on the door. This is motivating me to do this also. The game could use a repaint and when I get to that I'll see what I can do about shining up the door parts like this.

Ballys of that era had nice gray legs. You could really make it stand out with those legs on it. Steve Young could use the business I'm sure...

Quoted from Skidave:

Ballypin - looks great.
I recently replaced the playfield glass on my Fireball EM and that canopy was gross. Lots of used paper matchsticks fell out too.

I took one apart one time and I found the wrapper to a Hershey bar stuffed up inside there. Based on the price on the wrapper and some internet digging the wrapper was from around 1973

#580 4 years ago
Quoted from John_I:

Just finished Spanish Eyes. Tomorrow I will flip a coin to see which game is next: Fun Land Pinball or Haunted House Gun Game... I will probably wimp out and go with the Fun Land. The gun game is out of my comfort zone.

I regret ever selling a really nice Funland that Tim Meighan restored for me. On the hunt for another...

#581 4 years ago

Starting to put the cabinet back together on Jacks Open. Still working on playfield using my new Rotisserie that arrived yesterday!
D8A76ADF-A077-47D1-B636-78727B3DCDB8 (resized).jpegD8A76ADF-A077-47D1-B636-78727B3DCDB8 (resized).jpeg2083EED2-BAF1-44AA-ADE8-A8DDBE11AE23 (resized).jpeg2083EED2-BAF1-44AA-ADE8-A8DDBE11AE23 (resized).jpegBC2C45B7-EFE9-4EC6-B5EA-9AFA54C51D31 (resized).jpegBC2C45B7-EFE9-4EC6-B5EA-9AFA54C51D31 (resized).jpeg3888A936-B26F-4743-8FF3-F287FE26471E (resized).jpeg3888A936-B26F-4743-8FF3-F287FE26471E (resized).jpeg86E6069F-53F0-4678-9661-AC3B183863CB (resized).jpeg86E6069F-53F0-4678-9661-AC3B183863CB (resized).jpeg

#582 4 years ago

Williams Gulfstream - Just about to touch up the playfield on Gulfstream then will repopulate. Will still need to add some new parts and rebuild the chime box. Playfield protector is already made and ready to go. Thanks Chris!

Genco Argentine - Fixed the bottom cab splits, now onto the back box. Rewired primary of transformer and have gone through bottom playfield and most of back box. Still need to decide whats best for replacing the rubber on the sides of the PF. Have to bondo the coin door and repaint. Cabinet cleaned up very well.

Thanks
Blake
IMG_2085 (resized).JPGIMG_2085 (resized).JPGIMG_2343 (resized).JPGIMG_2343 (resized).JPG

#583 4 years ago
Quoted from Tonup69:

By your command....

It was more of a request.... I said please

Thanks for posting these.

Too bad the PF has so much paint loss, that will tough to bring back. Beyond my skills anyway. If you do decide to do some restoration, PBR should have the correct bumper caps and target faces. Shay made a repro BG a few years ago, but I don't know if there any available anywhere. I think a lot of people bought these for display, since the artwork is so iconic. Let me know if I can help.

#584 4 years ago
Quoted from goldenboy232:

Starting to put the cabinet back together on Jacks Open. Still working on playfield using my new Rotisserie that arrived yesterday!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

How did you get those wires so clean?!

#585 4 years ago
Quoted from edward472:

How did you get those wires so clean?!

See my video in the “power washing” thread here in EM area. Basically just hosed them off. They were already fairly clean though. Tumbled the washers and bolts just to make it look nicer too.

#586 4 years ago
Quoted from Dono:

Where did you source your nickel/dime/quarter price inserts... I've had a brutal time sourcing those... would be a great item to repro, but I believe because the sides are not smooth (small lip surround), no one has given it a go yet.

The inserts came with the game but if you look at the before picture, you will see they were turned inside-out.

#587 4 years ago
Quoted from EMsInKC:

Ballys of that era had nice gray legs. You could really make it stand out with those legs on it. Steve Young could use the business I'm sure...

Yes, I know chrome legs are not correct but I prefer the look and Steve gets the new order as chrome rather than gray... it’s all good. I actually have a crap load of old legs, free for the taking.

Just like some have powder coated metal on this era of games. To each his own and do what makes you happy.

#588 4 years ago
Quoted from Ballypin:

My latest addition from late February is a 1968 Bally Rockmakers. I always start with cabinet work and this one is now 99% complete. At first glance, the cabinet appeared to be in very good original condition. Knowing this is nearly impossible on Bally's from '66 through '68, closer inspection revealed that the cabinet was actually repainted. A good cleaning with Krud Kutter and minor touch-ups with matching paints was quick work. Next came removal of all metal hardware for cleaning and polishing. Coin door was torn down, repainted and metal parts polished. Top glass frame was taken apart, cleaned (these things are always a gross mess), polished and new glass installed. New chrome legs and coin lock from PBR and flipper buttons from Marco finished the exterior.
Here is the before coin door picture
[quoted image]
Here are the after pictures
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
My refinishing process for the top frame side rails and lockdown bar starts with a palm sander and 150 to 220 grit paper to remove scratches. Then step through 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1500, 2000 and 3000 grits. A quick cleanup and then to the buffing wheel with green compound. The final step is to hand buffing with 0000 steel wool with Mothers Mag polish. This last step is very messy so wear gloves. The result is a near mirror finish.
[quoted image]
I plan to order a new backglass from BGResto and add pincab protectors once I decide on color. The Nickel and Quarter coin plates are missing their entry chutes so I will eventually replace them once I source donor parts.

That is a beauty! Keep up the great work.

Thanks
Blake

#589 4 years ago

question for you em guru's. I need to replace the coin door switch. are all coin door switches alike? I have a bally bow and arrow. I am sure I have some switches from arcade doors that I could put in if they are similar. is this possible or where is a good place for a replacement?

#590 4 years ago
Quoted from Bax1:

question for you em guru's. I need to replace the coin door switch. are all coin door switches alike? I have a bally bow and arrow. I am sure I have some switches from arcade doors that I could put in if they are similar. is this possible or where is a good place for a replacement?

They are not all alike. However you probably could retro fit most types of momentary switches. I would source one from Steve @ Pinball Resource.

Thanks
Blake

#591 4 years ago
Quoted from aahgo:

It was more of a request.... I said please
Thanks for posting these.
Too bad the PF has so much paint loss, that will tough to bring back. Beyond my skills anyway. If you do decide to do some restoration, PBR should have the correct bumper caps and target faces. Shay made a repro BG a few years ago, but I don't know if there any available anywhere. I think a lot of people bought these for display, since the artwork is so iconic. Let me know if I can help.

Thanks. I am already on it. I ordered the correct bumper caps (on the way) and fixed the playfield short - had to replace all of the rusty lamp sockets. I know the BG is available, but don't want to spend too much on this one in case I decide to sell it or partial trade for the tropical theme games I am into - Paradise , Hula-Hula , Tropic Isle , Hawaiian Beauty , Hawaiian Isle , etc.

#592 4 years ago
Quoted from Blake:

They are not all alike. However you probably could retro fit most types of momentary switches. I would source one from Steve @ Pinball Resource.
Thanks
Blake

Thank you Blake. Thinking I might be able to get an arcade one in there. it isn't going to have any coin drop so not worried about that for now.

#593 4 years ago
Quoted from Bax1:

Thank you Blake. Thinking I might be able to get an arcade one in there. it isn't going to have any coin drop so not worried about that for now.

Set her to free play and be done

Thanks
Blake

#594 4 years ago
Quoted from goldenboy232:

I regret ever selling a really nice Funland that Tim Meighan restored for me. On the hunt for another...

Tim does some really nice work for sure.

#595 4 years ago

Posted progress of Hokus Pokus playfield repaint earlier. Ended up doing extensive cabinet Touch up too. Finished project pics.

A359586F-4DB3-4ADD-902D-76C292D82397 (resized).jpegA359586F-4DB3-4ADD-902D-76C292D82397 (resized).jpegEE2531B5-CEE8-4C56-B562-12F81116B371 (resized).jpegEE2531B5-CEE8-4C56-B562-12F81116B371 (resized).jpeg76F117F5-A85D-4D4F-A011-DCB04586E334 (resized).jpeg76F117F5-A85D-4D4F-A011-DCB04586E334 (resized).jpeg1FF60A1F-F769-4691-AF69-06B5948BC7C9 (resized).jpeg1FF60A1F-F769-4691-AF69-06B5948BC7C9 (resized).jpeg
#596 4 years ago
Quoted from DCRand:

Posted progress of Hokus Pokus playfield repaint earlier. Ended up doing extensive cabinet Touch up too. Finished project pics.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

The rugs really tie the room together

#597 4 years ago
Quoted from Blake:

Set her to free play and be done
Thanks
Blake

So free play is set by the credit stepper correct? There is a triple stack switch. I assume you close the two open switches?

#598 4 years ago
Quoted from Bax1:

So free play is set by the credit stepper correct? There is a triple stack switch. I assume you close the two open switches?</blockquThere are instructions for each make.

So free play is set by the credit stepper correct? There is a triple stack switch. I assume you close the two open switches?

This will give you instructions for each manufacturer.

http://www.google.com/url?q=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.pinrepair.com%2Fem%2Findex3.htm%23free&sa=D&sntz=1&usg=AFQjCNE0OG4zicMq2ZWQ0zD3UJifnyvk-g

Thanks
Blake

#599 4 years ago

thank you blake. will do that today when I have a few.

#600 4 years ago
Quoted from dasvis:

The rugs really tie the room together

That’s what you do in a garage game room on a budget.

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1,550 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
Minneapolis, MN
$ 69.00
Gameroom - Decorations
Pinball Pimp
 
Great pinball charity
Pinball Edu
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