Ok, I guess this will be my first real post on Pinside. I've heard this is a very tough crowd, so we'll see how this goes .

I have an early 80's Gottlieb playfield I've just finished tearing down, cleaning and touching up. Everything has gone well so far imo.

So, I need to now protect those touchups and the playfield itself. My options seem to be clearcoat or mylar I guess. Let me say that I would like to have a finish that is close to the original. I will not do an automotive clearcoat on this playfield. I'm told after that my main option is Varathane. I don't want to do Varathane. It takes too long to cure and seems to have the same downsides as similar products.

Therefore, what are my options beyond slow curing Varathane and completely unnecessary auto clear? I've heard Minwax Poly, but then others say no on that. I've heard Krylon CC is easy to apply and is close to the original factory finish, but then I hear from everyone that is a terrible idea as well. Beyond just getting a sheet of Mylar and covering it with that, I don't know what to actually go with.

I'm looking for something that cures in less than a month, will protect the touchups, isn't difficult or hazardous, and has a nice sheen but not the "sheet of glass" look. The only reason I haven't just given up and gone with new mylar is the fact I question whether the flatter finish touchups I've done will blend in as well as they would under a clear.

Thanks for the welcome to Pinside....

Mylar isn't my first choice, but more of a fallback type of idea. Sometimes I think I wouldn't mind it, other times I think it probably isn't the way to go. I wouldn't be in this position if I had only had to touchup around the pop bumpers (I would just Mylar ring those), but I also had several insert circles and a few small areas around other parts of the field to do in black as well. While my touchups look good and match up, the acrylic paint I used doesn't have the right finish to match the glossier look of the original playfield artwork.

I was told clear would even that out, but that Mylar may not. It won't look good having areas that are "flatter" locked underneath Mylar.

The UV resin doesn't seem to be a full playfield option, but I appreciate the suggestion.

That SprayMax stuff looks like a good option, but has the same problems as auto clear. I don't know if I really want to buy a hazmat suit + respirator and gamble with my health over this. The warnings and amount of extra preparation needed to do just one playfield is a little scary.