(Topic ID: 118044)

What Arcade Games do you own?


By HighProtein

4 years ago



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#680 4 years ago

I have a few generic jamma cabs to play boards like mr do series, arcade classics, ect, that I am not counting, but dedicated I have:

asteroids deluxe
red baron
battle zone
lunar lander
space duel
tempest
black widow
gravitar
major havoc
quantum
star wars ur
star wars cockpit
star castle
armor attack
solar quest
space wars
ripoff
speed freak
tac/scan
space fury
star trek
omega race
night driver
grand track 10
road riot
space invaders
deluxe invaders
sea wolf
dig dug
missile command
liberator
i robot
assault
klax
food fight
centipede
pole position
hard drivin
race drivin
hard drivin airborne
rampart
720
area 51/max force
police trainer
space lords
vapor trx (2x)
rush 2049 SE (2x)
relief pitcher
2 player cyberball 2072
4 player cyberball 2072
vindicators
freeze
cloak and daggar
paperboy
champ sprint
road blasters
marble madness
peter packrat
indiana jones
road runner
gumball rally
qbert
mad planets
reactor
joust
stargate
robotron
bubbles
blaster
sinistar ur
sinistar sitdown
carnevil
exidy max flex multigame(3x)
venture
jr pacman
galaxian
ms pacman
trog
blitz/showtime
slick shot
zaxxon
wizrd of wor
gorf
tapper
timber
tron
discs of tron
bally sente multi game
deco burgertime multigame
neo geo 4 slot
ultracade
crazy climber cocktail
crazy climber upright
space panic cocktail
armageddon magic the gathering

#686 4 years ago
Quoted from animesuperj:

Great list of vectors. I'd really like to find a Speed Freak myself sometime soon; and a Boxing Bugs. Probably the two highest on my vector want list.

I used to have 2 boxing bugs, 2 warriors, 2 cosmic chasms, barrier, star hawk, and ripoff cocktail, but they left with the great "why do I need them all" purge.. Before that was the "why am I collecting laserdisc games purge". Of all the games that I have let go, the ones I miss are cosmic chasm, boxing bugs and turkey shoot.

I also miss mystic marathon, but I will probably put that in my spare duramold cabinet. I was going to try to put in an inferno, but I don't think it could be a 2 player game in that confined space..

#688 4 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Did you have MACH 3?

Not anymore. Mach 3, Firefox(ur and cockpit), and star rider sitdown were last 3 ld games I had. I was offered a Mach 3 cockpit a year or so ago and it was a pass. If it was an ur, I would have given it a thought. at one point I also had space ace, dragons lair, cliffhanger, astron belt, and super don. I briefly had a freedom fighter and badlands, but I got those when I was done with laserdisc and passed it along to another collector.

#691 4 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Cool, when mine was working it was set to demo mode so you could play all the way through, 15 minutes of non stop action...what a work out. Mine won't go past the 2nd line on the boot screen and I haven't found anyone who can come and work on it.

I would contact joe about it. He is probably on here as acejedi (thats his sig on klov). He is expert at all things laserdisc. I have not messed with laserdisc in 10+ years.

#695 4 years ago
Quoted from toyotaboy:

Some of these restorations look great. I wonder if arcade guys look at pinheads the same way "wow, that pinball looks great!"

actually, I think most restorations look like crap. Reproduction stuff is always < original. Even the best efforts with the original atari films are just decent. I would much rather have 10% overlay damage vs a game thats 100% repro.

Pinball, I think is sort of the same. Although I have seen less repro art for pins, I saw the repro kiss backglass and its horrible. I would imagine you have color issues/loss of detail with repro playfields, side art, and backglass on pinballs. But with pins a thrashed playfield offers you very few options and it has a serious effect on game play.

#698 4 years ago

Cosmic chasm is a great game. Far better than the vectrex version that people are familiar with. But its a wiring mess.. I had 2 complete cabs and the monitor and pcb out of another. It was a pain to get it working. I did not want to have to ever fix it again, so I sold it off to a guy in WA.

The 2nd cab was a water damaged mess. I gutted it and sold the parts to a guy in LA who was going to build a cab for it. the extra board went to a fellow collector who did board repair. 2 years ago I sold the spare monitor to someone in OR. I think he was working on a project cab too. I was keeping it in case I wanted to zvg it, but its a project I would never get to or at best zvg with a 6100.

I would say forget about finding the parts for cosmic chasm, and be happy with zvg. Finding the 3 transformers you need for it will be difficult.

As for barrier, its really bad.. Beautiful cabinet art, but coleco handheld football is more fun. I would say its best use is donor tube for sundance(the only 2 to use the 22" tube). I am happy with just solar quest, armor attack, ripoff, star castle, speed freak, and space wars. I thought star hawk was cool looking, but its boring. Same with warrior, its beautiful but boring. The only one I am sort of looking for is tailgunner UR. I had a cockpit, but I sold it to a fellow collector. But what keeps me from really looking is the UR joystick. I would want a better stick in there.

Quoted from animesuperj:

Wow, that's awesome. I'm getting down to a small list myself of vectors I don't own. I got a Starhawk last year in super nice condition. I just snagged a Barrier, should have it delivered soon. I have an original Chasm cab, repro: side art, control panel, cpo; but missing everything else, lol. I'm planning on doing a zvg setup in it for now until I can find original parts. I'd still really like a Boxing Bugs and basically anything else on my "I don't own this vector" list.
My current arcade list:
Armor Attack
Asteroids
Asteroids Deluxe
Barrier
Battlezone
Black Widow
Cosmic Chasm
Crystal Castles
Eliminator 4-Player
Ghouls 'n Ghosts [Board]
Gravitar
Hockey Champ
Major Havoc (SD conversion)
Midway Arcade SD
Omega Race (x2)
Pop'n Music
Quantum
Red Baron
Rip Off
Solar Quest
Space Duel
Space Fury
Space War
Star Castle
Star Hawk
Star Trek Captain's Chair
Tac/Scan
Tailgunner
Tempest
War of the Worlds (b/w)
Warlords

#703 4 years ago

maybe you can find someone local to repair it. if not, You can ship the chassis (need to send the frame too) to chad at arcadecup

http://www.arcadecup.com/

#706 4 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Thanks for the info, couldn't find anyone local to fix it last time (see last post). Thanks for the info, really appreciate it.

there are a few others that could. Some of the guys who post on klov would and possibly for a bit less, but chad knows what he is doing and has an established web page.

A few things you should look into doing to tempest. all depends on if tempest is a long term keeper for you and your repair skill level:
1:replace Big blue filter cap in transformer
2:recap the ARII board. Maybe look into doing the sense mod(You can read for and against on this).
3:Have the pcb rebuilt (replace the pots, recap the board, and reflow the pins on the interconnect cable)
4:check to make sure your edge connector fits tightly. if not, you might want to look into repining the connector.
5:if your spinner makes a brrrr sound when you spin it. look into lubricating or replacing the plastic bushings.

1 year later
#1596 2 years ago

lets get this clear, that is not a proto paperboy. its just a dressed up regular paperboy inspired by the proto paperboy. this is the proto paperboy.

as for what art to use, the inspired art is nice. A bunch of what was done to the inspired cab was overkill and I did not like. as for what they are worth, The inspired one sold for insane money. the real proto sold for insane money. A regular restored paperboy can sell for pretty crazy money. even your all black if working would sell for more than $1k. hell, the paperboy control panel alone sold recently for $925 on ebay.

_

Quoted from herbertbsharp:

I think I'm finally going to restore the Paperboy I picked up last year. The thing I'm undecided on is the side art. Original style or prototype? I think I like the proto better.. but I hate to stray from something that looks more accurate. Maybe it doesn't matter since its repro stuff anyway? Anyone have opinions?And what are these worth?
Mine:

Original style:

Proto style:

paperboy_prototype1 (resized).jpg

2 months later
#1608 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinballerchef:

Oh ok. Hmmm I was hoping it was a simple switch out of one board/drive. I don't want to gut it out....I'll leave it as is and original. It's fun I just wouldn't mind a larger selection of games. Thanks for the info DrW

It does look like a total gut job. You could maybe rewire it to A adapter harness to go Jamma, but I have never seen yours, so th odds of getting someone to make you one is slim.

If your cocktail is rare, then maybe best to leave it as is and sell/trade it.

1 month later
#1643 2 years ago
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:

Just bought a Capcom Bowling from a fellow pinsider!
Bonus if anyone can tell me what the original cab was a converted from! I'm curious. Also I'll include a piece of plexi bezel that was stuck inside the cab. Help me solve the mystery!

It was missile command.

That plexiglass has nothing to do with the game. Looks like generic game plexi.

#1650 2 years ago
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:

Thanks to you both!! Fantastic, I'm definitely going to try removing the black paint! Hopefully some of that sweet side art is left, any recommendations?

don't try. If you want a missile command, just buy one. your talking $500+ in parts and your still hoping for a bunch.

Now if you said that inside the cab the board, ar2-6, and isolation transformer is still in there and they did not screw up the monitor shelf, then maybe. but you still would need to deal with a drilled control panel, marquee, double monitor plexi(I used glass on mine), wiring harness, lighted and non lighted buttons, correct trackball as well as possibly visible damage to the wood below the curved plexi retaining bracket.

cleaning off paint is a huge pain with possibly iffy at best results. if its waterbased its doable with fair results. if its oil based, its going to be a mess. Did it once to save a crystal castles. never again.

#1654 2 years ago
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:

Funny enough the speaker is weirdly mounted slightly below the monitor floating in the back.

I appreciate the concern but the side art is badass and at the very least will look very cool, much better than flat black.
Also funny enough, they did leave most everything intact, even the counters on the coin door and the original cash box, including all the original wiring, they just cut any extras they didn't use in the conversion and left them in the bundle hanging out.
Isolation transformer is still there as well. Not sure what ar2-6 is and the original boards are definitely not included sadly.
But it seems pretty original otherwise haven't even touched the marquee I wouldn't be surprised if the old one is tucked up in there somehow haha it's a pretty lazy conversion job. The mess of wires alone that go nowhere is depressing

For art sake, go for it. If you scratch the black off with your fingernail, then you should be able to remove it. Start with mild like isopropyl alcohol, mineral spirits, goof off, etc. google search a how to do it and you will find a ton of info.

If it does not scrape off, then it's probably acrylic and your talking stuff like Citris strip. That eat through clothing, skin, etc. you need ventilation and a respirator. Needless to say, it will probably eat the art too.

Ar2-6 is an audio reg 2 board. They are common, but missile command uses a beefier version -03 (my bad, I thought it was-06). Only it and Monty Carlo use -03. So another $50-75 for it to go along no with the $150-250 for the pcb.

Most games are just hacked into wiring. Operator probably could not figure out how to tap the audio reg so he hacked in a switcher.

#1657 2 years ago
Quoted from cnuts13:

anyone have a blitz 99 or 2000 they would like to sell? Shot in the dark here I know

That should not be hard to find. You might want to expand your search to sport station which is blitz 2000 and showtime together. If you find just a showtime, you can upgrade it to blitz/showtime for $80-$100.

2 weeks later
#1687 2 years ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

I've been playing a lot of qix in mame and on my arcadeSD board lately, kind of itching to find an original upright.
Anyone have any tips on strategy? My best is anywhere between 105,000 and 194,000 points. I'd love to discuss some strategy if anyone has some skill

Use slow draw..

Qix is a pain in the ass to make work, so if you find one, you might not enjoy it. I sold my cocktail and upright long ago. I would have no advice for you. I am not good at most games.

#1689 2 years ago
Quoted from girloveswaffles:

Use fast draw to create walls in the centre and then close off the area using slow draw. This will get you a lot of points in the first two rounds. You can do rthis when you get to the split Qix levels, but it's a lot harder. (watch the ad mode to see how to use the fast / slow draw for maximum slow draw percentages).

And the arcade version blows away the X in One boards / MAME versions. The arcade version plays better and has more flexability ffor the difficulty settings.

Before you say multiboards are not as good, have you played the jrok taito multi? It should be 100% exact. All his other multis are.

The only Taito I want to keep is zookeeper, and the only way I would keep it is jrok. My last real taito was frontline.

3 months later
#1737 1 year ago
Quoted from HighProtein:

Anyone else have a Trog?

I have a dedicated Trog. I normally take mine to cax, but this year tj took his. Cool game. The proto version referred to as bone trog is really hard!

1 month later
#1919 1 year ago
Quoted from gliebig:

Are there many four player games/is it worth the extra$ to get a game made for four players?

Are there many four player games/is it worth the extra$ to get a game made for four players?

only you can answer that question. do you have friends who would play?

if you don't want to dive into a 4 play cab, you can always get a 2 player cab that can be converted. a midway cabinet (mk2, 3, 4, ki, ect) takes a bolt on control panel. you could always buy a 4 player(blitz, nba jam) wide panel and swap it as needed. swapping panels is far better choice than going 1 panel to do everything.

Many 4 player games play fine as 2 player. you can play nba jam and blitz as a 2 player and play against a friend.

if you have kids, trog is a fun 4 player game. So is 4 player eliminator, gauntlet, and space lords(its really a 2 player but you can add an additional gunner per ship, but you can link 2 cabs and play up to 8).

space-lords-flyer (resized).jpg

#1920 1 year ago
Quoted from robotron:

just had custom art made for my mystic marathon

sides are nice, but I am not a fan of the front art.

I assume you used original kit marquee, bezel and cp overlay. If not, why did you not expand the art to the edges? The dedicated cab did not have the black bars. artwork went to the edge. you need to find the right joystick for it. Also, going to all that effort, you need to find the light blue 8 way.

#1924 1 year ago
Quoted from girloveswaffles:

Actually, each side can hve two players, so linking them up is up to eight players.

I did say up to 8, but its really 4. having and extra gunner is useful, but kind of boring. I need to take mine to cax next year. Its been a few years since I last took it. I used to take this one to cax. An ex atari employee shoved it into a cops and robbers cab. If it was a proto, I would have kept it.

A friend of mine played it when it was originally tested. He worked on fighting games and he said the game play was supposedly more cuthtroat. Winner stays loser pays. He thought that was a better game model.

035 (resized).jpg

1 month later
#1981 1 year ago
Quoted from robotron:

basically because i have a life.
i had somebody do this custom work and i am happy with the way it came out. i had a budget and stuck to it.
i have the original light blue joystick i have to install it when i have time.
i purchased this as a stargate cab conversion not a kit.
its a spare game in my garage and not meant for a museum.
never tell anybody their kids are ugly or have crooked teeth.

If you don't want to hear that your kids are ugly, don't show pics of them.. Sometimes people will tell you the truth!

Just wanted to point out, if your going to go repo art, might as well get them to do it right. Here is a pic of the dedicated MM I had. As you can see all art goes to the edges with no black areas. The cab style is robotron. I can understand not finding the right cab, but the guy printing the repos should try to do it right.
mysticded (resized).jpg
mysticded1 (resized).jpg

1 week later
#1995 1 year ago
Quoted from robotron:

the art on my mystic marathon is original from a williams kit that was installed on a frigging stargate cab. only the side art and kick panel art was made new. i have had more rare games than many people. i was one of the biggest collectors on klov as pacman can attest to this.i have owned them all. hundreds and hundreds. new old stock games new old stock kits all of the rare ones all of the common ones.
the lines are from the factory conversion kit. the game you are showing is a dedicated one and the art is for that game. again mine was a conversion. the bezel, cpo and marquee are from a factory williams kit. thats the way they come.
not a big deal homie.

That explains it. You used original kit art for cp, bezel and marquee and did not repo it. Far better choice than full repo. I had a mm in stargate and one in a joust over the years. I lent out my nos side are so it could get repoed. I only commented on it as if it was a full repo, the the guy who did it should have paid better attention to the repos. I am eventually going to put mystic marathon into a spare duramold.

Well, I too have owned hundreds of games over the years. I was buying them in bulk back in the 90’s and sold tons of games. I did buy out 2 arcades.. Still have about 200 vids and pins. I really need to work to get it down to about 125, but I would never go so far as to say I have owned them all. I did own that dedicated mystic marathon, but i eventually ran out of room and started selling off some games.

#1999 1 year ago
Quoted from robotron:

when you own so many it becomes a job instead of a hobby. unless you are like pacman and have oompah loompahs it seems helping you out.
cheers!

I would never do what Pacman does to his games. Some of it looks nice, but I would rather have original with minor imperfection than fake and 100%. I did save his reactor cab and put it back together. I had 2 complete reactor cabs and his cab was better than my worse one. so I bought it, and gave my old one to a fellow collector for his jrok restore.

The only repo parts on my games are this old game stuff on my dot(cp overlay, bezel, and marquee glass), mc (bezel), smash tv (bezel), rampart (art kit). I started collecting early enough to get a few nos originals. luckily I had an nos robotron cp that I lent out for the recent reproduction. It came out nice, but it’s not 100%.

Normally, my “job” allows me enough free time to take care of my games. But the last few years have kept me away from my games. I usually take some time to get games ready for cax. I have been selling a few of them there.

#2007 1 year ago
Quoted from j_m_:

kind of a left-handed compliment there. why the disdain for what he does? what's you next move, going into one of chris hutchins' or brian kelly's threads and dumping on them for their "fake" restorations?

I don’t know what they do to their pins, so I can’t comment on it. But when you gut a game, build a new cab, throw repo art on it, it’s not a restoration. It’s a re-creation/revision. It’s his game, he is free to do what he wants. But when he starts to sell them, it’s a bit disingenuous to call them original.

Is sort of like those guys who were converting pinballs into medieval madness. It’s not a real game, it may look right and work, but it’s not a genuine medieval. I would never buy one, but maybe someone else might, or get fooled into thinking it’s original.

#2008 1 year ago
Quoted from robotron:

you see what pacman does to his games is his business. he took alot of heat on klov for buying games and tossing out pissed out cabs for repros. i think i remember the big bruhaha over that reactor cab on klov. there are some games that are really nice and light patina i would keep like that all day. many games are really rough and he makes them like new again. someday i hope pacman opens his museum and ill be one of the first to visit. it would be like going back to the 80’s in a time machine. little known fact that pacman created alot of repro art and parts and shares them with the community. he was one of the first people to do this. stand up person always helped me whenever i had a question or was looking for a part or art of some kind. i know he made no money whatsoever on any of my transactions i mean does he really need 50 dollars for a piece of art? the time he spent making it himself or on labor isnt worth the 50.00.

Exactly. He is free to mod his games. I have no problem with that. But the only thing wrong with the reactor was it had some slight water damage on one side only at the the base of the cab. The rest of the cab on a scale of 1 to 10 is an 8+. If he is happy with his, I am happy improving an original, and I made a fellow collector happy giving him my cab which was about a 7. My only issue is that when he does go to sell them, that he does not try to pass them off as original. They are creative and unique, but they are not original.

Pac-Man has done some good stuff. I am not sure if he made his art files public. If he did or did not, it’s cool either way. But people sharing stuff is not unique. There are many people who do. I have made most of my posters available to be repoed. I don’t have the patience or the skills to create art, so I never will.

#2011 1 year ago
Quoted from PACMAN:

Wish I knew this about you before I sold the cabinet to you. I have MANY original games. Its what I prefer. If I could find super nice original games id just buy them and be done. Shockingly, beautiful original 40 year old games are NOT available. Maybe if I started collecting in 1987 I would have found them all.
What IS available, are trashed, mouse turd ridden, water logged, smoked out, used condom filled, disingrating cabinets.
You may not mind having that in your game room, but I do.
If I find a game that has what I consider a salvageable cabinet, I RESTORE the wood using bondo, wood hardners, etc sand the crap out it, then touch it up.
If not, I replace the wood. Cutting a new cabinet by hand. No CNC - using the same, or as close as possible to the original material.
If the cabinet was painted or stenciled originally, then the cabinet is painted exactly how it was from the factory. Not an easy task.
After that I apply NOS artwork if I can find it. So far I’ve acquired and scanned, RESTORED, and archived 150+ pieces of NOS art. Art that is now safely preserved.
If I can’t find NOS, I look for the next best thing - screen printed reproduction art.
If I can’t find either, I scan the artwork directly off the game - which I might add is usually in really bad shape (scratches, tears, bubbling, shrinking, fading) then I RESTORE that artwork, do several color corrections, and print it. A very time consuming and meticulous task.
The machines are then broken down into dozens of pieces and sorted.
The glass is replaced, the electronics and wiring are cleaned up. Monitors are replaced or rebuilt. Pcbs are fixed, power supplies are bullet proofed. Bulbs replaced.
The plastics and t-molding are replaced or RESTORED.
The metal is RESTORED or in some cases fabricated when missing or too far gone. Rust is sand blasted away and replaced with powder coating. Or chrome, zinc, etc. Or a crap ton of polishing does the trick.
Controls are all dialed in and everything is tested and adjusted for optimal playability.
So enough of your re-creation BS. There’s a lot more to it than replacing wood.
A funny thing is, I’m betting you used Reproduction cpo and bezel artwork on that Reactor cabinet I sold you. Or even a new monitor, new buttons, leg leveled, bolts or smoked glass. If you did anything to this or any other game you own you’d be very hypocritical.

no, I did not use repo art on reactor. I had all the parts on a complete reactor cab and swapped them over. The ones I had were not perfect but pretty good. The monitor in it had some reactor burn, but it was a nice bright k4900, so I did not swap it. The most I do is tube swaps.

Like I said, I don't have a problem with what you do to your games. You were offering up the cabs (I think I bought it off ebay for $10 and edgar picked it up for me), so that was cool. So it was not like I was asking for a favor to get it. I took care of edgar for helping me.

At some point, a game looses its originality when so much is replaced on it. As long as a game that has extensive work is not be sold off as original, I don't have a problem with it. There is a market for people who want something to look perfect. there is also a market for people who want original. I have been lucky enough to start collecting back around '83 when I got my first game, food fight, for $60(I suspect it came from an employee. He could not fix it and sold it cheap).

So finding rare games(major havoc, quantum, reactor, mad planets, cosmic chasm, warrior, ect) under $500 was not difficult back in the early 90s. By the mid 90's I had more than I ever thought to own. Probably 125 keeper uprights and maybe an equal number of duplicates (At one point I had a 10 star wars and a dozen or more tempest cabs). I realize times have changed. People spend thousands putting rare cabs back together. Sometimes you can avoid using repo, other times, you can't.

I did enjoy looking at your cabs when you posted pics on klov. I even suggested some slight mods to art as you were going through iterations of designs.

3 months later
#2153 1 year ago
Quoted from BentleyBear:

Here's some pics of my games
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I like the revenge from mars topper!

1 month later
#2224 1 year ago
Quoted from Goalie:

Hi all, perhaps you guys can provide some advice. I have a Neo Geo cabinet, the colors on the screen turned really dark and redish hue. Can I switch the monitor over to an LCD? If so what do I need to do it and where to get it?
[quoted image]

neogeo normally has a wells k7000 in it. Very easy to rebuild and if you can find someone with a tube rejuvinator, good chance it come out looking like new.

going lcd will switch the game to 16x9 vs the original 4x3.

1 month later
#2249 1 year ago
Quoted from HighVoltage:

I don't follow arcade games like I do pinball, but have an opportunity to buy a Sprint 2. Can someone tell me market prices for a decent example? Is there a resource where you can find recent pricing, like the pinside marketplace?

the key is if its working. I once bought about a dozen of them and it took about 2 dozen boards to get them working. but once they were working, they did not last long. all those early game ran really hot. Great game! one of atari's best drivers

as for what its worth, Today, I would think $700-$1k if its working.

1 month later
#2291 10 months ago
Quoted from HighProtein:

I'm seeking a Soul Calibur 1 board if anyone has one.

I am sure I have one, but I am real busy right now and it would take me several weeks to find it.

#2292 10 months ago
Quoted from jorge5240:

Man my wife absolutely loves the DDR. Easily her favorite thing in the house. She is now using it as a work out. Can’t wait to have a party and get some intoxicated people rocking it.
Was going to leave it as is but probably am going to restore it.
Nothing better than buying something that gets the wife and others to hangout at the house.
I would highly recommend one of these![quoted image]

It can be quite a workout. when my buddy plays on both stages its pretty insane. I know an older operator whos wife enjoyed using ddr for a workout until she fell and broke her hip.

2 months later
#2356 8 months ago

added a coastal seawolf the next mission a few days ago. Someday I will get get my original seawolf working..

52970879_1391212824355157_4927552271450898432_n (resized).jpg

#2357 8 months ago
Quoted from HighProtein:

My Alien Syndrome[quoted image]

nice dedicated. Hopefully the graphic glitch is a ez fix.

3 weeks later
#2410 7 months ago
Quoted from Junkhauler:

Speed Rumbler!!!! Never seen one that nice....
I have one in a old Tatio cab with no side art.
That game blew me out as a kid... so cool.
U did a fine job on that restore Pacman!
How about sending me some side art

I have NOS side art for speed rumbler.

#2411 7 months ago
Quoted from DeeGor:

I ended eliminating all of the hum from Spy Hunter by finding an original non-working power supply, then bought a rebuild kit for it and fixed it up. it's pretty simple to do it you have a decent desoldering iron.
I tired nearly every trick people recommended and none of it worked with the exception of pulling all the bulbs out of the game. With the original power supply I can have all the bulbs / LEDs in there and it's super quiet.

The question is how much risk you want to take with your pcb. Linear power supplies can fail high. When they do, they will cook your pcb. Switching power supplies tend to fail to 0v. So if you don't mind risking $500-$800+ mcr pcbs, then stick with the linear.

1 week later
#2442 7 months ago
Quoted from PACMAN:

Keeping busy.
[quoted image]

but will any of them be real?

1 month later
#2495 6 months ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

Beautiful, perfection

not perfection. just a replica. they are not running on original hardware.

2 weeks later
#2507 5 months ago
Quoted from HighProtein:

Current living room line up[quoted image]

dedicated trog.. cool! whats the serial number on it?

#2521 5 months ago
Quoted from PinDoctor82:

After doing a search in this topic, I was saddened that nobody has a Splatterhouse. I'm sad that I also do not.

splatterhouse was a kit, so I snagged the boardset years ago for my generic jamma cab. kevin brings a pretty cool splatterhouse cab to cax the last few years.

c73fc303df78ef99455ee8d5c9a5a4f0 (resized).jpg

here are some creative cabs people have done up.

Splatterhouse-arcade-game-machine-splatter-house (resized).jpg
DGZW0ZQUMAAIBwd (resized).jpgmaxresdefault (resized).jpg

1 week later
#2534 5 months ago
Quoted from embryonjohn:

I need a price check on this game and I wanted to see if it being a “Pac Man Plus” is more or less desirable than a standard Pac Man.
Any help would be greatly appreciated[quoted image]

pretty nice pac cab. not too much side art wear. I would think $700+ is good for it. I agree 96 in 1 or if you dont care for all of the extras, super abc multi, or some of the smaller multis are good options.

2 months later
#2593 69 days ago
Quoted from cliff_clavin:

Wow, talk about rare. A Sundance. Klov would go nuts to hear about a restored Sundance for sale. Good luck selling it.
Cheers
C.

the only question would be if its 100% original or not. If its restored, since pacman likes to make things, what percentage of it is original. It would matter to some people, while others would not care.

#2594 69 days ago
Quoted from PACMAN:

So I've been asked how much the Timber is. Its $5500 and that includes prepping the game for shipping.
Shrink-wrap, ram board, more shrink-wrap then strapped to a pallet.[quoted image][quoted image]

you should use a better strap than those harbor freight ones. plus you should use 2 to keep it from moving on the pallet. I am surprised with all the games your making, you dont use band strapping. Its cheaper and probably stronger. you put 3 or 4 on a game and its not going to break.

https://www.uline.com/Product/Detail/S-107/Poly-Strapping/Uline-Polypropylene-Strapping-Kit-General-Purpose-1-2-x-3000?pricode=WA9566&gadtype=pla&id=S-107&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIt5mD5Y7B5AIVC77ACh1IQAdSEAkYAyABEgJVpfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

#2598 68 days ago
Quoted from Nihonmasa:

Here's my arcade corner[quoted image][quoted image]

that royal cabinet looks interesting. is it a local generic jamma cab?

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