Vergennes, VT
MK2
OUTRUN (stand up)
PACMAN
POLE POSITION
(Topic ID: 118044)
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4 years later
Just finished restoring this Sega Turbo. Completely stripped most of the assemblies.
Thanks
Blake
66A9556D-8E07-4CE0-B8C6-A67771B43BAD (resized).jpeg1D5A8215-1D9B-4347-926F-D44EBCF50AD3 (resized).jpegA5840305-4F54-43E3-ACEB-46B78C029B5E (resized).jpeg6F1FF915-434C-4074-B101-0188F63B8250 (resized).jpeg571D4CA6-ACB3-4ACB-A02B-FA46D8986234 (resized).jpeg0FC2185D-1A1F-4272-8171-A20834CA76A9 (resized).jpegToobin got a mini restore a few months ago. Still need to pick up the alligator decals for the sides of the CP. Minor touch ups on the bottom pedestal too. Still has its original medium res monitor though. Chassis had seen a lot of work before I started rebuilding it. All in all it’s a decent example of a very fun game.
Thanks
Blake
F2441923-8B35-44A2-A0D1-066FA2AF8A11 (resized).jpeg6F5AB5F0-B0A0-4540-9F15-8E4D45882884 (resized).jpeg20E56E43-DA80-4A23-9C9A-83B8251A8915 (resized).jpeg0853712F-1CB1-4B21-A499-E86D94FA2621 (resized).jpegC95376BF-80C5-4A29-B7DB-2D7D754E80BD (resized).jpegQuoted from johnnyutah:Love my Toobin! Super fun game![quoted image]
Looks like original T-Molding too ??? The color is a little off on all the repro stuff. My T-molding was mangled so had no choice.
Thanks
Blake
Quoted from johnnyutah:Yes original T-Molding, it’s not bad at all. I just wish I could find the T-molding for the base of mine. It needs it-
Yup, mine was mangled too. I replaced it with the same blue. Came out decent but of coarse is only half as wide.
Thanks
Blake
1 year later
Found a DK a few months ago and decided to seal the deal. It is my first after owning more then 100 other machines. I found that interesting as its so popular and plentiful. After missing a couple opportunities in the $500-$600 range 3-5 years ago I was somewhat pleased to pay $700 in todays market.
Other then being absolutely filthy both inside and out, it was a relatively nice example with a plywood cabinet, and original hardware. It needed some work and the monitors condition was unplayable but I figured I could sneak in any repairs between a couple restorations I was currently working on. Today I now have a presentable DK that plays good and didn't cost an arm and a leg. Still think I may rebuild or replace the joystick as it doesn't have as much resistance as I'd like. Needs a stronger center position.
Fixed:
- Sanyo 20ez rebuilt (looking great now!)
- Lower cabinet base repaired (cabinet was dangerous to have upright)
- Cardboard shrouds replaced/repaired
- Control panel stripped/cleaned (original overlay)
- Cabinet cleaned/buffed/polished (my son helped with this)
- Marquee light fixture
To Do:
- Fix lock down bar / cup holder holes
- Side art
- New T-molding
- Joystick possibly
IMG_7919 (resized).JPGIMG_7896 (resized).JPGIMG_7891 (resized).JPGIMG_7922 (resized).JPGIMG_7923 (resized).JPGIMG_7924 (resized).JPGIMG_7925 (resized).JPGIMG_7926 (resized).JPGEA949455-80C8-491C-8C42-19C8B42B13E8 (resized).jpgQuoted from SilverUnicorn:That's a nice looking DK. Good job!
Chris
Thanks!
Still some little items to address to make it really nice but I'm happy.
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:I love those Sanyo monitors. They always look great after a recap and don’t seem to burn in like other brands.
I agree. Pain in the ass with the sub boards and removal can sometimes be a bitch but overall they are reliable and look great after being rebuilt.
Quoted from Fulltilt:Like adding Donkey Kong Remix
That would be fun for a while. Probably put in a switcher.
3 months later
Just finished
285B6167-A757-4E48-9471-C7F467D2F303 (resized).jpeg526C8729-9026-4894-8DFC-0A6AB255966A (resized).jpeg5603585B-7BFE-42F4-BD41-4DF64E3474D1 (resized).jpeg6DA45C6A-BA30-4493-90FB-27CDBBF734C5 (resized).jpeg87F5079B-3BB8-4B41-9CAC-E46943D68C03 (resized).jpeg9135E4EA-2F46-4F63-BEB1-3D3111BDBAF2 (resized).jpegC747D104-C1BD-4F0B-965B-B7302AA404E4 (resized).jpeg35EBE5DA-1E7C-45CD-9452-AAEF43019384 (resized).jpegQuoted from TAVsPlace:This looks great!
Thanks
Quoted from Gumby510:Dam man please say you did some videos on that restoration. That is beautiful, think I have seen only one other resto that looked this amazing.
Here is the restoration thread on KLOV - https://forums.arcade-museum.com/threads/sega-super-hang-on.481657/
I have a bunch of video but haven’t put any editing together yet.
Thanks for the kind words.
2 weeks later
1976 Atari Breakout - Finished just before Christmas
2A37F2EA-F9A0-421E-A4FE-FF215D8F257C (resized).jpeg4778C446-ACDA-41D5-A32F-270927C1DB70 (resized).jpeg555F905B-54AA-4636-B2DA-54A37344119D (resized).jpeg5E8264E7-BFD2-4C4F-B090-E5D9054B4911 (resized).jpeg797B3639-1EB9-475D-82B7-1D2751F463FC (resized).jpegBFB61C0D-9BD1-4E12-941D-290B919FE7E7 (resized).jpegQuoted from girloveswaffles:The CRT, gels and graphics look to be in very good condition as well as the cabinet. Congratulations.
BTW I may have one of the black and red price inserts somewhere in my parts. I'll have to look for it over the weekend.
Yes CRT got all new caps and a new hand made flyback U-bolt as the original was broke. First for me there. Color gels were extremely dirty but not lifted at all which allowed them to turn out amazing. Cabinet was a lot of work to get it presentable.
The insert your speaking of is the Mylar coin door sleeve correct? This one is original as far as I know but I’d like to hear more about the black and red as I feel I have seen them on different Atari titles of that era.
0849DF50-4421-40DF-92A3-1EF600C9D6ED (resized).jpeg99EA48FB-E48C-44C1-9E1F-C31AD00C8D61 (resized).jpegQuoted from girloveswaffles:Hmm. Have not seen those before. The ones I've seen on games of that era where the ones with red lettering made to be backlit like yours but they're screened on the back of a piece of Plexi-glass. Maybe that was a later replacement I have somewhere or ones used on the "Moon" type entry like on Lunar Lander, Super breakout and other games like those.
The window of mine is still the thick plexi. But the writing is on the mylar. I know lots of KEE games had it screen printed as well.
Quoted from Jmckune:Thanks, I actually had someone send that to me and I am looking at it hard. Everything looks incredible except for the glass top so if I replaced it I’m sure it would look nicer. Only thing holding me up is I’m not sure what these are worth if I were to ever sell it. I feel like I got a good deal on it at $600 for the game and the chairs. But I don’t have any good comps to see what these actually sell for as the only ones I see listed are insane prices that I doubt move anywhere.
Go to KLOV and search the FS thread history. Search engine is not the best but use the advance search feature as it helps. Pac anything is going to bring decent money if working and presentable. Cocktails do typically run cheaper than their upright counterparts but I think you did get a good deal at $600. Here is a rough scale on working average condition original hardware machines - $500 = great deal / $800 = Average / $1200 - Retail.
Condition as with many titles is king in coin op.
Quoted from Jmckune:I’m no expert on judging arcade game conditions but everything looks pretty good to me. Wood doesn’t have any scrapes or damages really. Even the corner pieces where the paint is off feels smooth so I’m sure a brush of black paint would help. Controls are all responsive. Screen is sharp and bright. I know that 2 555 bulbs are burnt out on player 2 side. I need to open this lock and replace it as keys were lost by previous owner.
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Looks above average to me. Nice grab.
Quoted from cdnpinbacon:Not an expert but should the monitor be de -guassed? Wicked score!
Taking pics of CRT monitors can be extremely difficult to do well. Many have a neon glow around the edges that is crystal clear in person.
Quoted from John-Floyd:Looking for a Namco full size class of 81’ Pac-Man/ Galaga as my first ever game purchase… $3,000 brand new seems awfully steep. Anyone have any comments they’d like to share? I haven’t seen any used ones in the Chicagoland area and I’m not a fan of the 60 in one floating around. Would rather have the real deal.
Post a WTB thread on KLOV. That forum is by far the number one resource for vids and covers a lot of other coin op machines as well.
$3000 for a NEW video arcade is a bargain when comparing to a new pin. Chicago Gaming Company (Churchill Cabinet co.) are producing all of the re-released Bally/Williams pinball machines - AFM, MB, MM and CC. Cabinets, playfields and screen printing in the same factory as they produce Pac/Gal Reunion, Class of 81', Arcade Legends, exc. Same company that made Stern cabinets/playfields for years. If your thinking "it just plays a couple video games that are decades old", buy an original in good working order for around a grand. The price point makes sense with vids. A new machine should be worth more then its older counterpart when all else is equal (excluding rareness, high end originals, exc.). The price point on pins makes no sense at all.
Quoted from mycarlooksfast:Or consider a BitKit. At $150, it is IMO the best bang for the buck. Great FPGA emulation and amazing support by the creator, with many new games being added all the time. Many classics supported including multiple versions of Pacman, Galaga, Galaxian, Frogger, as well as many obscure titles that you may find really fun. Full game list here: http://www.bitkit.info/
I've got one in a full size Galaxian cabinet that I converted to JAMMA with swappable Pacman control panel and I can't say enough good things about it.
Yes BitKit is a great product! Great recommendation.
Quoted from pinmister:Still looking for my 2 player Ivan Stewart Off Road(not interested in 3 player). I found one on KLOV, had the deal all lined up for a great price and could not get an 18 wheeler to his home and ended up giving up on it. I also would consider a Nintendo Play-Choice with the gun, would like to play Hogan's Alley,etc. with my kiddos.</blockquote
Could be…Ever move a Spyhunter?
Try a Road Blasters cockpit.
Quoted from SNES:I had a pair of Off Road Challenges and had Cruisn World boards as well. The board swaps for those two games and Cruisn USA are pretty much plug and play. Definitely helped them stay in my collection longer that way. When I got bored of Cruisn, I put Off Road in. And vice versa. I’m my opinion, you need to have a pair of them to make them last though. I have one Super Bikes and I never play it.
Playing Super Bikes linked is a blast. My son and I played SB 3 a few months ago and just fell in love. Full size deluxe sitdown. A monster of a machine. Graphics are unreal.
Quoted from pinmister:Still looking for my 2 player Ivan Stewart Off Road(not interested in 3 player). I found one on KLOV, had the deal all lined up for a great price and could not get an 18 wheeler to his home and ended up giving up on it. I also would consider a Nintendo Play-Choice with the guns, would like to play Hogan's Alley,etc. with my kiddos.
Man that game brings back some serious memories. I am in the same boat as some of the other guys-I have lots of memories of playing in cockpits(loved Atari Hard Drivin) but in my home they are space killers. The three player ISOF is a space killer and another reason I am searching for a two player version. I will say for guys wanting to experiment with racing games-may check out a computer platform or even a Nintendo Switch or something first before buying a huge space killer cockpit. I see guys drag those monsters down stairs and then see the dust collecting on them months later. They are fun but they get old quick-imo. I do like the Nascar cockpit and if I had unlimited space it would be a cool addition. My son and I really enjoy playing the racing games for Nintendo Switch with racing wheel while sitting on my La-Z-Boy with surround sound stereo pumping(when not playing -it can be tucked away for storage). Also wanted to add that the Gamegate multi-cade we purchased years ago is the best game ever purchased for the home(my son cracks out on it everyday). It allows us to have almost every game ever made without killing space(more room for pins).
Oh the memories of Atari Hard Drivin cockpit(game was revolutionary for its time) at our local mall arcade-I can picture it like it was yesterday...
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I have a Race Driven compact (nothing compact about this upright. Weighs 425 lbs I believe) in my gameroom and that game is a huge hit at every party. Still a top 5 driving simulator. I want an F355. That game is unbelievable for its realism. Here is a write up I did on its designer Yu Suzuki a while back - https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=283611025850646&set=a.283609522517463 The layout has changed significantly but the article can be expanded by clicking the "see more" tab in the right hand corner.
1 week later
Quoted from pinmister:Had an afterthought the other day. I thought-I really enjoy playing Rocket League on various platforms. What an awesome game(one of my favorites currently). I thought it would be awesome if they made a dedicated arcade machine for barcades. I would play the shit out of Rocket League on location and it probably would kill it for ops(has a huge following). Could be the next best thing since sliced bread for op's and locations? Just a thought-make it so!
-Also wondering if it could be made into a driver game with wheels and pedals? Got me daydreaming possibilities
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Many ideas we think are new are just renditions of the old. Rocket League is a great example. The same can be said of many modern day pin features.
Exidy, an arcade manufacturer who developed quite a few hits was in the industry during its hay day and made this beauty here in 1977:
Car Polo
https://flyers.arcade-museum.com/?page=flyer&db=videodb&id=1808&image=1
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Quoted from pinmister:Wow that is crazy! I have seen that game pictured but never checked out the gameplay videos. If you compare the gameplay from a 1977 Exidy Car Polo machine that looks like early Atari years compared to what can be made today-holy smokes! Imagine a two-four player modern Rocket League dedicated machine with wheels and pedals. The boost and jump buttons located on wheel and the opportunity for players to battle each other. Damn I am doing some serious daydreaming now and someone may need to reach out to Raw Thrills, CGC or someone(seriously). We need another cool game for arcades and it seems like the last cool release was Killer Queen in 2013. I don't consider an oversized 4 player Pacman or giant Space Invaders a gamechanger. Pong was cool I guess-but another rehash. We NEED a new cool dedicated machine for location.
1977 Car Polo...2022 Rocket League...
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There are more NEW games then most people are aware of. I made this thread on KLOV and have slowly been listing details of games from each manufacturer over the last 10 years. Check it out.
https://forums.arcade-museum.com/threads/what-companies-still-produce-vids.500162/
Quoted from pinmister:Yea I really do not consider any of those monstrosities to be worthy of new game status. They seem to be oversized 'Dave and Busters moneysuckers' and are more novelty to me(the kids love them). Come to think of it the only worthy games on the new game list are Batman and Aliens and both of those got stale after about 10 minutes of playtime(my son still likes Batman). Those monstrosities are good for sucking money from young children at Dave and Buster type establishments but what I am looking for is something for the kids and adults in a small dedicated possibly stand up cabinet. Bigger is not better nowadays and making them the size of a small car with neon LED's is not appealing to me. Raw Thrills gives me the chills when it comes to the production of new games. Someone needs to make me a two player stand up Rocket League with wheels and pedals-I will dream this machine into existence.
- Mindcraft Dungeons Arcade - 2021
- King Kong Of Skull Island - 2020
- Nitro Trucks - 2020
- Big Buck Hunter Reloaded - 2020
- Nerf Arcade - 2019
- Super Bikes 3 - 2019
- Rampage - 2018
- Halo: Fireteam Raven - 2018
- Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles - 2018
- Slither.IO - 2018
- X Games Snowboarder - 2017
- Space Invaders Frenzy - 2017
- Injustice Arcade - 2017
- Galaga Assault - 2016
- Worlds Largest Pac-Man - 2016
- The Walking Dead - 2016
- Big Buck HD Wild - 2016
- Moto GP - 2015
- Cruis'n Blast - 2016
- Batman - 2015
- Jurassic Park - 2015
- Aliens Armageddon - 2015
- Super Cars - 2014
- Super Alpine Racer - 2014
- Barrel Of Monkeys - 2014
- Transformers Human Alliance - 2013
- Pac-Man Chomp Mania - 2013
- Winter X Games Sno Cross - 2012
- Doodle Jump - 2012
^^^Meh
Look at the size of these monstrosities...
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I disagree. The several versions of Alien were awesome. Only played Batman a couple times so I can’t speak on that. But if you have not played Super Bikes (specifically 3), Jurassic Park, and the walking Dead you owe it to yourself to do so. Yes they are HUGE! But they are jaw dropping fun. Many are extremely immersive and have unbelievable sound and graphics. The co-op modes are fantastic forcing you to work together and the settings can be tailored for home or arcade play. These are super successful arcade games.
Check out the other manufacturers too as I actually feel like Raw Thrills makes the most kiddie style games of the bunch. Global VR has some cool intriguing games that seem to be getting consistent upgrades. And are sold in kits as well which allow you to swap multiple games in and out of one cabinet.
I have several manufacturers to go too on that list.
Quoted from pinmister:I think you hit the nail on the head-super successful money makers. Op's want cash registers-I get it but they just do not do anything for me personally and most of them are oversized re-hashed turds-Like I said my kids love them. Super Bikes was fun but I would rather play NBA Jam, Tapper, Marble Madness,etc. any day of the week. Hell I say bring back cabaret arcade games-bigger is not better.
Sounds like you enjoy the classics. I do too. But I find enjoyment in many of the new released arcade titles as well. I’d love to have a room full of all the new manufacturers games and get a chance to play the ones that intrigue me.
If you want to discuss money suckers then the classic or “golden age” era is a perfect example. The average game on many machines was less then 2 minutes. That was planned.
People can get good at any game. The cost of getting good does turn some folks off nowadays. Larger arcades usually have a pretty good quarter to token ratio so you get your money’s worth and a chance to improve at a game you’ve never played.
I’d continue to try a new game if you come across them. You mig Jr find your grail.
Quoted from qbass187:I want one of those Jurassic Park Raw Thrills Games!!! (Not the home one) I had a WTB post on KLOV but got no real hits.
Being around the cities you should try getting ahold of local operators. Maybe you can score a routed game that’s not currently working for cheap. They hate to move them so that works for you.
Quoted from dmieczko:Asteroids cocktail, Q*Bert, Pacman (with multicade trackball control panel and arcadeSD board installed, orig board and CP in storage), and hybrids Baby Pacman and Granny and the Gators...
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Looks great but I see a lot of opportunities for more games
Quoted from YZRider926:I know a few people here have candy cabs. Could anyone let me know where to go for parts or people that can repair power supplies or monitor chassis? I have 2 Sega New Astro City’s i need to put back together. Had them for 10+ years sitting in pieces.
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Post a thread on KLOV if you haven't already. Far and away the best source of information/communication for vids.
Quoted from dmieczko:Yes, but I would lose either the TV area or the guitar area. Before I had the guitars on the wall, I had two other pins in that spot...
Just fuckin' with ya. We always joke more! more! more! But it really is nice to have a spot to chill while still enjoying a view of your machines. I lack that. Hell my game room has been become another storage unit over the last year. Yes I said ANOTHER. Strong will to keep the spacing you have now. Looks great when can I come over. I have some karaoke experience. Maybe we can setup a mic stand and make fools of ourselves.
1 week later
Quoted from Paseb:Just purchased an original mk2
I need to order a new marque and lexan control panel.
Where’s the best place to purchase? [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
For repro art I usually deal with This Old Game or Pheonix Arcade but it doesn't look like either have the MK2 marquee in stock. There are a few others I have little experience with. Escape Pod has it in stock.
As for the lexan protector: ebay.com link: itm
2 months later
Quoted from Aurich:Current state of my candy cabs, not pictured since they're next to the camera is the other Vewlix Blue Diamond and a Neo Candy 29.
I appreciate all the American classics, it what I grew up with, but candies are just so much more civilized. Sitting down to play is the wave. I'm not so much about nostalgia as I am about use. I host a weekly session, mostly fighting games, but I always have one vertical shooter in the mix, and right now Tetris The Grand Master is semi-permanently parked in the Neo Candy (TGM2 right now).
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Great looking setup. Candies are an area I have not yet had the opportunity to dive into yet but certainly will at some point. Lots of cool looking machines for sure with neat features.
Quoted from Aurich:Just a different mentality really. Part of it is appreciating the Japanese style, and that's not to everyone's taste. As a fighting game player it's pretty perfect for me and my crowd though.
Another part of it is just being more 'modular', these cabs are meant for games to be swapped in and out of, I change up PCBs all the time. Different from the really dedicated cabs that are meant to stay one game for the most part, or maybe one family of games.
Absolutely agree. And I can easily find the appeal in that. Plus I gravitate towards coin op I have yet to explore and that world is one of them. Fighting games are a huge part of our game nights as well. Dedicated MK2/3U plus being the main choices.
Quoted from sbmania:Anybody got anything for sale for a Taito Crazy Climber upright? I could use a new CPO, new monitor bezel, and a spare board set. Also either new side art or I will have to touch up the original. Going to Allentown if that helps!
Check with "This Old Game", "Phoenix Arcade", "Escape Pod", "Arcade Art Repro", probably a half dozen I'm forgetting.
2 weeks later
Quoted from John-Floyd:So My friend decided to give this to me! He said it needs a new monitor, but I’m excited to be getting this. Don’t know much about it, but looks like it’s a nice one.
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Doubt it needs a "new" monitor. Possibly a rebuild (caps, flyback, HOT, exc.)
Made by the same company doing the pin remakes - https://www.chicago-gaming.com/ Cabinet made by Church Hill
They have been making these games for quite some time. The cabinets are solid with nice art. All the games are licensed and not bootleg copies. The hardware in the older machines was a computer and power supply with a disk drive in the coin door, controls with J-Pak or similar. Cheaper models came with LCD screens. Looks like you have the nicer 25" CRT. I believe there have been three revisions of these cabinets between "Ultimate Arcade" and "Arcade Legends". Differences being hardware and amount of games. Newer versions run off a PCB motherboard with games loaded onto an SD card and wired to JAMMA standard. Expansion packs could be added at later times.
I just sold an Ultimate Arcade (upright). They have a nice front end display/select screen similar to that of Hyperspin. Congrats on the score!
Quoted from j_m_:if you choose to re-cap it yourself, here's a couple of tips to help you out:
leave the monitor unplugged for at least 24-48 hours before attempting to remove it. this helps any residual electricity discharge.
This is not necessary. You can discharge any CRT with the screwdriver method or better yet with an HV probe and immediately remove the anode to work on a chassis. It is wise to discharge around the anode hole again approximately 5-10 min later or before reinstalling the anode cup as there can be a smaller residual charge that is present shortly after discharge. On a side note there is a good/great chance the chassis installed in these newer games is self discharging but no need to chance it. However you could prove such by using an HV probe to discharge as you can see the voltage if present.
The other suggestions I agree with.
Quoted from Mancave:Whilst that is true it's still safer to leave the machine turned off for a while anyway before doing the discharge. A fairly new flyback will hold charge for a lot longer and for the inexperienced doing this for the first time the extra ZAP can scare the shit outta people and there's a slight potential for the particularly jumpy types to flail said screwdriver around, not the best thing to do with a monitor
Definitely agree with waiting 4-5 mins and discharging again around the CRT hole, there's usually always some residual charge left/built up.
Many folks do not understand how a CRT works, why it holds a charge and what discharging it actually is doing.
The flyback is not holding a charge. The CRT (cathode ray tube) is holding the charge. It acts very much like a capacitor in this manner. With the inside and outside of the tube being coated in aquadag (separate conductive plates) and the glass of the tube (insulator). When you connect a screwdriver or HV probe between the anode cup and the chassis you are essentially shorting out the capacitor. The screwdriver does this all at once giving you an exciting pop. The HV probe bleeds it off in series through very large resistors. If there is a self discharging circuit on the monitor chassis then it will bleed the HV through it.
And yes a monitor sitting for a while will often slowly bleed off its HV. Although I personally have received an audible pop from monitors sitting disconnected from power for nearly a month.
Quoted from Robotworkshop:If you are working on Black and White Monitors and Vector monitors you are supposed to discharge the CRT using a resistor inline with that screwdriver used to discharge the tube.
This has been proven as false over the last 4-5 years. An old arcade myth if you will. Overwhelming amounts of successful non damaging discharges with screwdrivers have been completed over the years on varying vector/B&W monitor models. One of dozens of threads here as an example: https://forums.arcade-museum.com/threads/which-monitors-should-you-not-discharge-with-a-screwdriver-wire-and-clip.446929/
Although some still hold steadfast.
I do recommend purchasing an HV probe to dial in your HV after a chassis rebuild though. I use to just rely on B+ voltage but that doesn't tell you what the actual HV is. Once you have it you might as well use it for discharging too. Which it does slowly through an inline resistor.
Quoted from Robotworkshop:It may be but adding a resistor inline with the clip is really cheap and easy to do. I only discharge if I have to disconnect the HV lead from the CRT. Otherwise I still use the resistor to be safe.
Agreed it is fast and cheap. I have one myself I made years ago before being informed. I eventually bought an HV probe which slowly bleeds off the HV safer than any homemade unit and has the benefit of measuring the actual HV. For anyone who is uncomfortable discharging a CRT, it will comfort you to look and see your HV at the anode is 0v before removing the cup. Then when you do all the work of a rebuild or swap you can reward yourself by properly dialing in the HV to get the best/safest picture possible.
Quoted from Mrbill:if an electrohome g07 has a blown flyback, its big cap can stay charged for years! When I first started collecting I use my finger to wipe the fuse of unknown g07 until someone saw me and told me dont ever do that.. I dont need to learn the hard way, so never again.
many years later I was going thru a pile of pulled g07's. I always shorted the main cap to make sure it was discharged. Well, one of them still had a charge! I dont know how long that box was sitting, but my guess would have been more than 2 years.
Yup I've heard stories/reports of people getting bit while working at their bench. It can happen. And it doesn't need to be a physically large cap. If the voltage rating is high and your not familiar with the circuit its worth putting a good sized resistor across the leads to bleed out the voltage. There is a nice calculator on digikey - https://www.digikey.com/en/resources/conversion-calculators/conversion-calculator-capacitor-safety-discharge for safely discharging caps.
Quoted from Norcalpin:Can you recommend a good HV probe to purchase? I use the screwdriver and clip method, but would like to move to a HV probe.
Thanks
Try Ebay.
Either a used Fluke 80k-40, or a new BK Precision PR 28A
Quoted from Norcalpin:Would this BK precision work?
BK Precision HV 44A
https://www.testequipmentdepot.com/bk-precision/electrical-testers/probe-meters/40kv-high-voltage-probe-meter-hv-44a.htm?ref=gbase&gclid=Cj0KCQjw-JyUBhCuARIsANUqQ_J2Az7u7VAf1QLYkkTL8oKmjWbs6ibEA_YsliNbwkZyHpEknv33sXkaAmLdEALw_wcB
I would compare the data sheet of the models your looking at to the models I recommended. Some are lower voltage ratings. So you need to be aware of what your measuring. The models I recommend are well proven in the video arcade industry and have specs that exceed what we would typically be measuring.
Also be aware that your digital multimeter will need to be rated for input impedance of 10Mohm. You can find this in the data sheets of both the HV probe and your meter.
Quoted from Norcalpin:Here are some of my arcade machines.
[quoted image]
EFTPRM Sighting!
4 months later
Quoted from Zartan:Does anyone know anyone who can fix Pole Position boards.I also want to find a good racing mame so I can play mariocart on it!
This is a helpful thread for diagnosing : https://forums.arcade-museum.com/threads/master-list-of-pole-position-repair-log-links.482502/
Reach out to TimePiloteer or gamefixer on KLOV. I believe both are currently fixing PP boards.
1 month later
Quoted from pinmister:On the hunt again -looking for a nice Nintendo PlayChoice with gun setup-any leads appreciated
Also still hunting for the one eyed cyclopes-Enduro Racer
Are you a member of KLOV? That’s your best bet in finding one.
Quoted from pinmister:Yes but lots of arcade guys here on Pinside as well. I have found lots of games by simply asking(you never know unless you ask)
I am in Denver, but really not interested in the dual monitor-thanks
Oh absolutely. And lots of folks are on both such as myself. Want to maximize your chances is all. Good luck.
Finished restoring this TMNT. Was a full deconversion as you can see by the before pic (black cab on far left). Still working on a few touchups as well as sourcing a couple push buttons but otherwise its fully working. Original side art saved. Running original PCB. All new wiring. Security screws have since been added to the CPO overlay protector.
Full restoration thread here: https://forums.arcade-museum.com/threads/tmnt-restore.510873/
IMG_2867 (resized).jpgIMG_2863 (resized).JPGIMG_2846 (resized).JPGIMG_2855 (resized).JPGIMG_2856 (resized).JPGIMG_2731 (resized).JPGIMG_2719 (resized).JPGIMG_2693 (resized).JPGIMG_2649 (resized).JPGIMG_2650 (resized).JPGIMG_2655 (resized).JPGIMG_2657 (resized).JPGQuoted from Jaeg:I just got Final Fight up and running. I'm not sure what I'm going to do with it from here. I'd like to restore the cabinet back to Super Pacman like the one you have pictured.
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I actually picked up both the Super Pac which was converted to TMNT with working boardset and the TMNT which was converted to Tekken with the intentions of restoring both. So one down, one to go. Great cabinet on Super Pac. Final Fight is a great game too.
Quoted from docquest:Wow, I just read your KLOV thread, great job ! A true necromancer bringing that back from the dead!
Thanks alot!
Yes this was a pretty extensive restore. Was the fourth deconversion that I've taken on.
1 month later
TMNT fully restored
20230114_141732 (resized).jpg20230114_141956 (resized).jpg20230114_135933 (resized).jpg20230114_142541 (resized).jpg20230114_141937 (resized).jpg20230114_140314 (resized).jpg20230114_140359 (resized).jpg20230114_141120 (resized).jpgIMG_20230114_145828 (resized).jpgAlpine Ski fully restored
20 degrees / snow / winter photo shoot
20230114_123933 (resized).jpg20230114_124008 (resized).jpg20230114_124015 (resized).jpg20230114_124022 (resized).jpg20230114_124051 (resized).jpg20230114_124323 (resized).jpg20230114_124351 (resized).jpg20230114_124544 (resized).jpg20230114_124718 (resized).jpg20230114_124746 (resized).jpg20230114_124814 (resized).jpg20230114_124851 (resized).jpg20230114_124940 (resized).jpg20230114_124951 (resized).jpg20230114_124915 (resized).jpg20230114_125034 (resized).jpgQuoted from pinmister:It has been awhile since I played Alpine Ski-had to Youtube it!
Great game. Easy to learn but hard to master. A toss up between Luner Rescue and Alpine Ski for my favorite Taito.
Quoted from Zartan:I just can’t get enough of these games! I know it’s because they are a piece of my youth. I still remember the feeling of actually beating my friends on Toobin, or getting to see a level on Donkey Kong for the first time that no one around has seen! I remember spending an hour a day collecting pop bottles from around the neighborhood so I could get the $0.25 deposits to play whatever game was at the corner store. Taking my allowance for cutting the grass, taking out the garbage helping the neighbors, then using my skateboard to get downtown so I could play at “Fast Eddies”, On my parents bowling league nights, I would beg to go so I could play whatever they had there at the time. I wish my kids had the same thing we did.
My son (11) who has been around coin op for his entire life has been my designated game tester after every restoration. Doesn't matter the era, pin/vid/skill/slot. If it takes a coin he will play it. He has friends at school who here about our game room and ask him to come over to play. His last birthday party I had 4 kids playing TMNT for two hours straight. Once exposed to coin op they typically love it just as we do. Even with all the console and internet games they have to play today.
Speaking of Toobin. I helped a friend run a FREE arcade in downtown Rutland VT a few years ago with 20 vids. Toobin was one of five I owned and operated. It was a huge hit. Two people playing it every night we were open. The arcade was originally supposed to be open to the public for 2 months. It got extended 3 times, the last by the mayor of Rutland himself as he heard how popular it was. Kids would be waiting at the door before opening. They considered it a worth while investment to the community. This is typically not looked at as a nice area unfortunately. We ended up running it for 10 months. Rent was donated by landlord. Heat/electricity by the city of Rutland. All time, repairs, and games by ourselves.
20190721_141244 (resized).jpgQuoted from Coindork:Anybody have a SEGA Frogs they want to sell?
Not to be confused with Frogger (totally different game).
I believe it was called Frogs and Flys on the Intellivision. [quoted image]
Good luck. Thats a pretty rare game. They bring a hefty price too. Really cool game with the bezel art and back drop art.
Quoted from Coindork:Yep, I’m aware. My main collecting interest is black and whites and I have no issue having to pony up on the price for the right machine.
Here’s the current configuration of our main arcade room at the house. Want to add a Frogs to that lineup.
[quoted image]
Thats a pretty sweet row. I know I've seen some of those machines of yours on KLOV. My handle is mk3u2012 there. Sega Combat is certainly an underrated EM. A friend of mine had a beautiful example. Blue Shark is highly sought after. VP is always fun. Play that at FunSpot in Laconia NH. Same with Skydiver. Which I'd really love to come across one to purchase. Seen a few Stunt Cycles but have never played one. Cool to see the upright Sheriff. I have seen a lot of gameplay on the two player unit Gunfight.
Here is my B&W lineup:
Asteroids
Rip Off
Breakout
Space Invaders Deluxe
Midway Gunfight
Sportorama (cool pong clone)
Battlezone (cabaret)
Shark jaws
Quoted from rod90:Never has a wooden figurine looked so good!
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Thats supposed to be Tojo correct?
Quoted from rod90:Period wise, I suppose. I keep thinking that he looks Chinese.
Yea I don't believe it was representing Mao Zedong. If I recall somewhere in the machine there are Japanese flags correct?
Quoted from Zartan:Has anyone scratch built an arcade (Paperboy)? I want to try but I don’t want to spend more on homemade than actually purchasing a used one.
If you go on KLOV and do a search you will find all the info your looking for. There have been dozens of cabs scratch built. Many using CNC machines. 100's if not thousands of reproduced parts. Off the top of my head for Paperboy: cabinet, artwork, handle bars, control panel, wire harness, gears have all been reproduced. Probably a lot more.
Example : https://forums.arcade-museum.com/threads/atari-paperboy-arcades.504147/
20220402_171426 (resized).jpg20220402_171751 (resized).jpg20220402_171953 (resized).jpgQuoted from Zartan:I’ll find a used one. I think shipping alone would kill me for parts, let alone the search. I contacted the guy on KLOV, so Thank you! I dislike KLOV there are a lot of people here on Pinside that are A$$holes, but so far KLOV has had way more than Pinside.
Funny I was just having this conversation with another Pinside member last week. I feel the opposite for the most part. Regardless, ignore the assholes. Its a valuable source of technical information and its members have a wealth of knowledge to offer for FREE. I have found no equal in regards to video arcade machines. I tell people on KLOV the exact same thing when they are searching for advice on pins. Pinside and KLOV do not have enough crossover to warrant utilizing just one site if you fix, buy or operate both vids/pins.
Quoted from snyper2099:Have you ever owned one? My wild guess is you will have it less than a year and be like... "Why do I own this $5K boat anchor?"
Nooooo.
If anyone has nostalgia for playing Paperboy in their youth it is one that brings back big smiles as an adult. A great example of a game you can't replicate on a console or in MAME.
Quoted from snyper2099:I am certain I played this game in my youth hundreds of hours age 10-13. I felt the same way as you, owned one and could not unload it fast enough. I mean, Championship Sprint (just mentioned) is a much better designed game with a lot more replay value. For me, these things take up so much space, it does not leave much room for nostalgia. King of ironic that people are willing to sacrifice a great game for one that has not aged all that well just for the sake of nostalgia.
I have a hard time saying bye to most machines I purchase. Large or small. Paperboy and other unique control scheme games will always be sought out by collectors as they just can't be replicated. Lack of space is certainly a problem. But lets be honest, a pin takes up far more space than Paperboy. I'm the type that would buy an antique cigarette vending cabinet with mahogany sides and mirrored front to restore and display and I don't smoke. I'd fix up a kiddie ride to put in my front yard. I'll restore an old soda machine even though I have a fridge. It's all perspective. And Paperboy is one cool as game when played in the right perspective.
Quoted from Zartan:If Blake lived closer I think I would have to drop by with some bourbon!
If your ever in the area, give me a shout.
Quoted from Aurich:Hey, whatever works for you, it's always personal. I collect to play. I have 8 candy cabs because I host a weekly night for players, they get used, and I enjoy playing and sharing them.
If I stopped playing fighting games, or my players stopped coming to play them, I'd sell it all. Just looking at them, or owning them, isn't really enough for me.
Arcade "FIGHT NIGHT" with eight candy cabs sounds freaking awesome. I have an upright MKII, MK3U, MK4 and Super SFII. But I love candy cabs.
Quoted from mycarlooksfast:Just moved my Neo Geo goldie downstairs with the pins so I (and my guests) would play it more and realized I haven't shown it off in this thread. I restored it a couple years ago and put a darksoft cartridge in it. I've never seen one in the wild, I think it's a pretty rare one.[quoted image]
Not rare but certainly not something you see on location much. Great system and cool looking cabinet. I kick myself for not buying a nice example a few years ago. I have a Big Red and love it.
Not to mention the Darksoft MVS cart is badass. I throw a cheap multi cart in mine to play a bunch of expensive carts.
3 months later
Quoted from Mrbill:I recently purchased a complete konami track and field trophy kit. It was a total of 5 trophy's. 1 monthly winner and 4 weekly winners. I don't need to keep all of them, so I am going to offer up 3 (One is on hold) of the weekly winner trophies and the contest cards. Each trophy will come with the weekly winner control card and 4 daily control cards.
The kit also came with a 22x34 contest poster. I plan to scan the poster and make the image available. I was going to ask $80 plus shipping for each trophy. currently someone is selling one for $150 on ebay! if you would like to get one, let me know asap. If you want to avoid shipping, I plan on going to golden state pinball may 20th or you could grab it at cax on august 19th.
here are pics. It was interesting opening the original box. the trophies were rapped in 1983 newspaper. The right stuff and deal of the century were in the theaters.
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Blast from the past! Thanks for sharing. Cool piece of competitive coin op history.
Quoted from Reznnate:Finally found one! My arcade is nearly complete![quoted image]
Those Universal cabs are hard to beat for looks. That example in particular looks to be in killer condition. Nice grab.
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:I usually prefer the upright cabinets but this might be the exception. The cocktail is damn cool. Nice find!
Cooler and worth considerably more then the upright. Much more sought after.
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