I am looking everywhere for Williams Turkey Shoot gun parts. Anyone happen to have any stashed somewhere and might consider selling them? The gun on my game is a bit off, wobbly, and not functioning well at all. Thanks.

Anyone interested in a working Shinobi pcb, wiring harness and side art?

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Bit of a late reply, but I'd skip KLOV for candies, you're not going to find much support there for them, it's a woodie kind of crowd. For candy support I'd use https://www.arcade-projects.com/

Current state of my candy cabs, not pictured since they're next to the camera is the other Vewlix Blue Diamond and a Neo Candy 29.

I appreciate all the American classics, it what I grew up with, but candies are just so much more civilized. Sitting down to play is the wave. I'm not so much about nostalgia as I am about use. I host a weekly session, mostly fighting games, but I always have one vertical shooter in the mix, and right now Tetris The Grand Master is semi-permanently parked in the Neo Candy (TGM2 right now).

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Great looking setup. Candies are an area I have not yet had the opportunity to dive into yet but certainly will at some point. Lots of cool looking machines for sure with neat features.

Just a different mentality really. Part of it is appreciating the Japanese style, and that's not to everyone's taste. As a fighting game player it's pretty perfect for me and my crowd though.

Another part of it is just being more 'modular', these cabs are meant for games to be swapped in and out of, I change up PCBs all the time. Different from the really dedicated cabs that are meant to stay one game for the most part, or maybe one family of games.

Absolutely agree. And I can easily find the appeal in that. Plus I gravitate towards coin op I have yet to explore and that world is one of them. Fighting games are a huge part of our game nights as well. Dedicated MK2/3U plus being the main choices.

I guess I am in the other croud.. candy cabs are nice, but the games I care about dont play in generic cabs. Over the years, I had a taito egret 1, and a namco exelena. Both were beautiful cabs, but they just ate up too much space in my garage. So I passed them along to local candy collectors.

Yup, that's what I mean, different way of thinking about games, and you gotta align with what interests you. I get your viewpoint 100%

I'd love to have an Egret 2, they're going for stupid money now. Pin prices!

In a world where I had a giant warehouse to play with my personal museum there are a lot of classic American cabs I'd love to have in there. In the one I live in where my garage is divided between my laser cutter and CNC, pins, a driving simulator I thought would be a good lockdown project, and my arcade cabs I'm really focused on the sweet spot between what I emotionally enjoy, but also what gets use.

Candies make me emotionally happy, that's key, but they also get played on every single week. And sharing them is part of the reason they make me happy. I have a really good group of people Thursday nights.

Anyways, I recognize this is mostly a woodie crowd, and I love seeing them. But happy to pop in and represent the candy side every once in a while.

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Dear lord that is a collection. Nice viewpoint and use of space. I'm being forced into the Garage with allocation of 1/2 of it. Agreement the Wife and I talked through to have enough space for 1 car.

Out of curiosity, did you re-build these Candies or did you buy all in working order?

What is the range these go for?

I only own Robotron 2084, Donkey Kong, and Ms. PacMan (for the Mrs), but would love to add a Candy down the road.

Thanks,

Robert

What, no SW? Pffft.

I haven't put a car in my garage in ages. They both stay on the driveway, and that's fine really.

Little mix of things, but they all worked when I got them. I fix up little things, get new control panels on them, recap monitors or power supplies as needed etc.

Like pins the prices keep going up. What used to be $500 is nearing $2000+

Right now what I'd say is this: the way things are going it's just going to keep getting harder to get them.

Anybody got anything for sale for a Taito Crazy Climber upright? I could use a new CPO, new monitor bezel, and a spare board set. Also either new side art or I will have to touch up the original. Going to Allentown if that helps!

Check with "This Old Game", "Phoenix Arcade", "Escape Pod", "Arcade Art Repro", probably a half dozen I'm forgetting.

A few years back I saw the metal part of the control panel with the artwork on e-Bay. It looked like NOS. Almost bought it myself, but money was tight then.

I'd be happy if I could get a Taito America Cabaret model.
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Anybody got a RoadBlasters System 1 they need to shed themselves of?

I got this space invaders part 2 cabinet empty with no monitor, bezel, marquee or boards 20 years ago. Sold it as a horizontal LCD mame 10 years ago. Got it back last summer in a trade deal and redid the bezel to what it had from the factory. The original bezel artwork was finally available online in 2020. I put in a vertical CRT computer monitor and Pi 3.
280 vertical classics and a spinner. So glad to have it back. It's a beautiful and pretty rare taito cabinet.
I just need to find a good image or scan of the original marquee.
If anyone has one let me know.
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So My friend decided to give this to me! He said it needs a new monitor, but I’m excited to be getting this. Don’t know much about it, but looks like it’s a nice one.

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Doubt it needs a "new" monitor. Possibly a rebuild (caps, flyback, HOT, exc.)

Made by the same company doing the pin remakes - https://www.chicago-gaming.com/ Cabinet made by Church Hill

They have been making these games for quite some time. The cabinets are solid with nice art. All the games are licensed and not bootleg copies. The hardware in the older machines was a computer and power supply with a disk drive in the coin door, controls with J-Pak or similar. Cheaper models came with LCD screens. Looks like you have the nicer 25" CRT. I believe there have been three revisions of these cabinets between "Ultimate Arcade" and "Arcade Legends". Differences being hardware and amount of games. Newer versions run off a PCB motherboard with games loaded onto an SD card and wired to JAMMA standard. Expansion packs could be added at later times.

I just sold an Ultimate Arcade (upright). They have a nice front end display/select screen similar to that of Hyperspin. Congrats on the score!

take a pic of the monitor chassis and you can get a better answer on what it takes to fix it. I have never had one, but my buddy worked for ultracade at that time.

if you have the skills to remove the chassis and ship it off for repair, arcadecup.com is good choice to send it to.

if you choose to re-cap it yourself, here's a couple of tips to help you out:

1) watch a video on how to discharge and remove the anode leading from the flyback to the cathode ray tube. leave the monitor unplugged for at least 24-48 hours before attempting to remove it. this helps any residual electricity discharge.

2) I have a large regular screwdriver with a length of 18 gauge wire taped to it that I ground out to the metal on the chassis. I also make sure to put my left hand in my pocket and only use my right when attempting to dislodge the cap from the anode (this way, if you get zapped [and believe me you don't want to because it *can* kill you], the electricity will not pass over your heart.

NOTE: once the anode cap is removed, roll the tip of the screwdriver into the hole to make sure that you completely discharge the tube.

3) swap the caps out one at a time. I tend to work from left to right, top to bottom on the chassis *after* identifying all of the locations of the caps that need to be replaced

4) when removing the original cap, note the orientation of the negative leg. there are many a chassis where the - and + are not silkscreened correctly. by removing and replacing a single cap at a time, you can help to reduce/eliminate this potential problem (you don't want to put a cap in backwards)

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This is not necessary. You can discharge any CRT with the screwdriver method or better yet with an HV probe and immediately remove the anode to work on a chassis. It is wise to discharge around the anode hole again approximately 5-10 min later or before reinstalling the anode cup as there can be a smaller residual charge that is present shortly after discharge. On a side note there is a good/great chance the chassis installed in these newer games is self discharging but no need to chance it. However you could prove such by using an HV probe to discharge as you can see the voltage if present.

The other suggestions I agree with.

If you are working on Black and White Monitors and Vector monitors you are supposed to discharge the CRT using a resistor inline with that screwdriver used to discharge the tube. Without that supposedly you can damage the HV diode.

Before pulling out any caps take a moment to pull out your phone or digital camera and snap lots of reference photos showing where the existing caps are, the values, and orientation.

In regards to the caps also be aware that some older electrolytic caps have a band on the positive side with a bunch of + signs in it. Most caps now have a stripe on the negative side. That can mess people up if you don't pay close attention.

Thank you for all the comments on fixes - I just wish to make it perfectly clear that I have zero and I mean zero knowledge or background on how to repair monitors. I still have to pick up the machine, but all my buddy said is that the monitor needs work. I “have a guy” that will fix it for me. Rather have it done right than my ‘Homer Simpson spicerack’ fix haha.

Whilst that is true it's still safer to leave the machine turned off for a while anyway before doing the discharge. A fairly new flyback will hold charge for a lot longer and for the inexperienced doing this for the first time the extra ZAP can scare the shit outta people and there's a slight potential for the particularly jumpy types to flail said screwdriver around, not the best thing to do with a monitor
Definitely agree with waiting 4-5 mins and discharging again around the CRT hole, there's usually always some residual charge left/built up.

Always good to take precautions around electronics….

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Many folks do not understand how a CRT works, why it holds a charge and what discharging it actually is doing.

The flyback is not holding a charge. The CRT (cathode ray tube) is holding the charge. It acts very much like a capacitor in this manner. With the inside and outside of the tube being coated in aquadag (separate conductive plates) and the glass of the tube (insulator). When you connect a screwdriver or HV probe between the anode cup and the chassis you are essentially shorting out the capacitor. The screwdriver does this all at once giving you an exciting pop. The HV probe bleeds it off in series through very large resistors. If there is a self discharging circuit on the monitor chassis then it will bleed the HV through it.

And yes a monitor sitting for a while will often slowly bleed off its HV. Although I personally have received an audible pop from monitors sitting disconnected from power for nearly a month.

Yes i understand that, just didn't state it well.

This has been proven as false over the last 4-5 years. An old arcade myth if you will. Overwhelming amounts of successful non damaging discharges with screwdrivers have been completed over the years on varying vector/B&W monitor models. One of dozens of threads here as an example: https://forums.arcade-museum.com/threads/which-monitors-should-you-not-discharge-with-a-screwdriver-wire-and-clip.446929/

Although some still hold steadfast.

I do recommend purchasing an HV probe to dial in your HV after a chassis rebuild though. I use to just rely on B+ voltage but that doesn't tell you what the actual HV is. Once you have it you might as well use it for discharging too. Which it does slowly through an inline resistor.

It may be but adding a resistor inline with the clip is really cheap and easy to do. I only discharge if I have to disconnect the HV lead from the CRT. Otherwise I still use the resistor to be safe.

This is one of the most recent additions. Have the game working really well and even though it is a simple game it is a lot of fun and is a workout to play. Even the younger crowd thinks it's cool. I also have an old Midway Extra Bases cocktail baseball game that uses a pair of track balls too.

Still looking for an old OWL type coin door for parts. I need the coin switches and the brackets that hold them. Need that to finish up the football game.

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Awesome! And looks like it's in really nice shape! I remember getting my hands pinched in those track balls back in the day. LOL

Enjoy it!

Agreed it is fast and cheap. I have one myself I made years ago before being informed. I eventually bought an HV probe which slowly bleeds off the HV safer than any homemade unit and has the benefit of measuring the actual HV. For anyone who is uncomfortable discharging a CRT, it will comfort you to look and see your HV at the anode is 0v before removing the cup. Then when you do all the work of a rebuild or swap you can reward yourself by properly dialing in the HV to get the best/safest picture possible.

if an electrohome g07 has a blown flyback, its big cap can stay charged for years! When I first started collecting I use my finger to wipe the fuse of unknown g07 until someone saw me and told me dont ever do that.. I dont need to learn the hard way, so never again.

many years later I was going thru a pile of pulled g07's. I always shorted the main cap to make sure it was discharged. Well, one of them still had a charge! I dont know how long that box was sitting, but my guess would have been more than 2 years.

Yup I've heard stories/reports of people getting bit while working at their bench. It can happen. And it doesn't need to be a physically large cap. If the voltage rating is high and your not familiar with the circuit its worth putting a good sized resistor across the leads to bleed out the voltage. There is a nice calculator on digikey - https://www.digikey.com/en/resources/conversion-calculators/conversion-calculator-capacitor-safety-discharge for safely discharging caps.

Just an FYI for you, I have a buddy that has the standup version of this, circa 2004 build. His monitor went all wonky looking and we weren’t sure what to do. He made a call to CGC and found out the issue was a to replace a dead battery on the motherboard. Quick cheap fix and the game is looking and playing like brand new…..
Actually, not sure of the exact build date, but it did have a nice crt in it.

Can you recommend a good HV probe to purchase? I use the screwdriver and clip method, but would like to move to a HV probe.

Thanks

Try Ebay.
Either a used Fluke 80k-40, or a new BK Precision PR 28A

Would this BK precision work?

BK Precision HV 44A

https://www.testequipmentdepot.com/bk-precision/electrical-testers/probe-meters/40kv-high-voltage-probe-meter-hv-44a.htm?ref=gbase&gclid=Cj0KCQjw-JyUBhCuARIsANUqQ_J2Az7u7VAf1QLYkkTL8oKmjWbs6ibEA_YsliNbwkZyHpEknv33sXkaAmLdEALw_wcB

Here are some of my arcade machines.

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I would compare the data sheet of the models your looking at to the models I recommended. Some are lower voltage ratings. So you need to be aware of what your measuring. The models I recommend are well proven in the video arcade industry and have specs that exceed what we would typically be measuring.

Also be aware that your digital multimeter will need to be rated for input impedance of 10Mohm. You can find this in the data sheets of both the HV probe and your meter.

EFTPRM Sighting!

Man! It's been a long time since I saw an Escape from the Planet of Robot Monsters!

Yes and no....lol. Less than 300 dedicated cabs were produced. Finding them is fairly tough and when they do pop up, well they aren't cheap. Last year I came across a primal rage cabinet that had been converted to a Deer Hunting game. I picked it up fairly cheap and decided to convert it to EFTPRM. The cab is about 90% the same, with the main differences being in monitor size and a drawer for the pcb. I had the marquee, cpo, and side art done by This Old Game. I'll post some pictures when I'm done.

escape is supposed to be in a klax/swords and crossbow/ cyberball cab. Finding a 25" drawer cab with a narrow panel is very rare. only dedicated relief pitcher and rare atari protos used that cab. You should check the back of your cab. It possibly was a proto before it was a deer hunting game.

did you have the front drawer panel art done too? That looks correct for escape(small pic hard to tell). Maybe someone had an escape and dropped in a 25" and converted it to deer hunting?

All original Joust ..video pinball and slick shot..

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I put a post on KLOV but thought I'd put one here looking for technical assistance from some Pinside experts. I have a Taito Crazy Climber with a weird sound problem. At the top of building one, as the Climber approaches the roof, you hear the helicopter approaching. If the Climber grabs hold of the helicopter, he shouts "Look Out" and a tune plays.

However on the second and third buildings, as he approaches the roof, you hear the helicopter, but if the Climber grabs on, he doesn't shout "Look Out" and while the correct tune plays, it plays at 2x or 3x speed. All other speech and sounds are correct throughout the game. Anyone have an idea where to look for the problem?

Still looking for a two player Ivan Stewart Off-Road and a Enduro Racer

Original Q*Bert in the house Loving the knocker in the cab when Qbert or Coily fall off the cubes. Great touch

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