(Topic ID: 241351)

What am I getting myself into?


By ItsBwalt

7 months ago



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  • 58 posts
  • 36 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 months ago by pinkid
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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There are 58 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
#1 7 months ago

Hi everyone!

So I have a local 1979 Harlem Globetrotters that I'm thinking about picking up for $800. Everything looks good on it as far as playfield and backglass. Seller claims it worked 100% before moving, now only half the lights turn on. I don't know much more than that. I also am not familiar at all with teching these older machines, my only limited experience is on newer Sterns. So potentially I know there are a load of things that could be wrong, but any ideas on how deep I'm getting here/cost? Give me some insight into whether it's a mistake. It's not far from my house so I can go look at it, what should I be checking / looking for? Keep in mind my noob abilities.

Attached a pic.

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#2 7 months ago

More than lights. GI lights, feature lights, displays.

Hard to say easy fix or money pit.

LTG : )

#3 7 months ago

LTG yeah.... It kind of looks like maybe it's not a great deal. Is there anything in particular my noob eyes could look for if I go check it out to better gauge my money pit potential? Or should I just pass? In theory is there any simple fix that could be causing all the above?

#4 7 months ago
Quoted from ItsBwalt:

Is there anything in particular my noob eyes could look for if I go check it out to better gauge my money pit potential?

Price out new boards and displays. Then you'll no worst case scenario if things can't be fixed.

LTG : )

#5 7 months ago
Quoted from ItsBwalt:

it worked 100% before moving

That, along with, "it's just a fuse", or "its just a quick fix". Don't believe stuff like that. There's probably some some other things going on. There usually are.

I usually sink about $350-$600 into repairing & refurbishing a game. It will be more if you buy brand new boards and displays.

Personally, I think $800 is too much for that game without showing that it can boot and play.

18
#6 7 months ago

I disagree with all the above. Great game to learn repair on, a wealth of information is available for this era, as well as parts, and it’s a ton of fun to play.
I can’t count how many times I’ve picked up a “dead” Bally like that one and given it a slap and a kick and it boots right up. They’re not real hard to fix, once you know what you’re doing.

#7 7 months ago

If you have “noob abilities” as you say, I would steer clear of a project pin. It could be a simple fix or something much more. I’d spend slightly more and buy a fully working pin. If you’re up for a challenge and learning experience: go for it!

#8 7 months ago

Could just need some repining. I would start with the $89 rectifier board, but you have to be able to solder. Also recrimp all those connections. See what issues you still have. Rectifier should clean up a lot of the light issues. Maybe some othe recrimping of connectors. These are pretty straight forward to work on. Worst case mpu $200, solenoid $180, displays $250 or so. Great game though.

#9 7 months ago

I would buy that game for $800, that's a great game.

#10 7 months ago

Fantastic game! Hope you can get it working.

#11 7 months ago

If it was closer I would say run and I would buy it.

#12 7 months ago

These are very fun to work on. It's like an old car there is plenty of room to get in there and very straight forward. I say go for it.

#13 7 months ago
Quoted from shacklersrevenge:

I disagree with all the above. Great game to learn repair on, a wealth of information is available for this era, as well as parts, and it’s a ton of fun to play.
I can’t count how many times I’ve picked up a “dead” Bally like that one and given it a slap and a kick and it boots right up. They’re not real hard to fix, once you know what you’re doing.

I agree, from the images it cosmetically looks great. and it's a terrific game.

Ask for a pic of the boards & post them here. if badly corroded battery on MPU your probably looking at least $200 for an ultimate MPU + re-pinning a good few trifuricons https://www.allteksystems.com/alltek-products-ultimate-mpu-board.html

If just starting to corrode maybe $20.oo for a NVRAM board https://www.pinitech.com/products/5101_nvram.php

#14 7 months ago

When you go look pull the fuses and ohm them. Look for burnt connectors. Lift the playfield and look for any burnt coils or wires or light sockets that look bad. Honestly a new rectifier and some recrimping will take care of a lot if not all.

#15 7 months ago
Quoted from shacklersrevenge:

I disagree with all the above. Great game to learn repair on, a wealth of information is available for this era, as well as parts, and it’s a ton of fun to play.
I can’t count how many times I’ve picked up a “dead” Bally like that one and given it a slap and a kick and it boots right up. They’re not real hard to fix, once you know what you’re doing.

I agree. When i got my first game, I didn't even know how to put the ball in it. I am certainly no expert, but I learned alot by working on my machines with the help of some great Pinsiders. Don't let it overwhelm you. LOTS of help on Pinside

#16 7 months ago

I don't think you would hurt yourself by buying this game and giving it a shot. Like mentioned, it re-pinning crappy IDC connectors on these ballys can fix many things. If it don't work out for you and you are over your head, some other guy will buy it from you.

#17 7 months ago
Quoted from MotorCityMatt:

I would buy that game for $800, that's a great game.

I'd probably go $350 at most. $800 is a bit steep.

#18 7 months ago

Update. Got some board pics. chas10e Hop-Pac

Looks pretty damn clean actually. These pics change anyone's mind.

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#19 7 months ago

i would buy that in a heartbeat, people want $300 for a backglass. $800 for the entire game in that shape is good.

#20 7 months ago

Well, at minimum you are looking at re-pinning everything and rebuilding / replacing the power supply board. That is a Stern solenoid driver board, which isn't bad. But it isn't original and means someone else was in there before you. I hate repairing someone's 'quality' repair. I would absolutely make sure the AC voltages coming into the power supply board are correct. At minimum, you know you have a good transformer. The pins, rectifiers and fuse holders are going to be marginal. But if the AC is correct, the rest is obtainable and not very expensive.

Personally, I would offer $500. It is a good learning experience to repair and get up and running. You are going to put $300 into the machine between rubbers, bulbs, repair parts and miscellaneous stuff that comes up along the way.

#21 7 months ago

Worst case and you had to replace all boards and displays it would cost around $800 for all the new parts.

Pretty rare that would be needed.

#22 7 months ago

Geez, I'd happy buy this for $800.

#23 7 months ago

Can't really tell for sure. But looks like a burnt connector on the rectifier board. I'd start there

#24 7 months ago
Quoted from Hop-Pac:

Can't really tell for sure. But looks like a burnt connector on the rectifier board. I'd start there

Good eye! I see that now!

#25 7 months ago

Buy it. Cosmetically it looks pretty good. It’s a fun game and if you’re the one that gets it working, playing it will be even more enjoyable.
Project pins are good for your soul!

#26 7 months ago

I would be getting this battery removed ASAP! Can’t believe it hasn’t leaked.

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#27 7 months ago

It depends on what your end goal is with this game:

If it were running and in decent shape, it would be worth about 1500. At best, you need a new connector, nvram, rubbers, and probably re-pinning. You may need new boards, displays, etc as well.

Look especially hard at the boards for any signs of acid damage or loose pins. Look for anything missing or burnt.

There are a lot of "ifs" here.
I would certainly try to get it for less. You could easily be into it for what you could just go buy a working pin for.

If you are looking for a pinball to re-sell, this probably isn't for you. If you are looking for something to learn how to work on pins (and you can spend the time on it), and you think you will keep it and play it...then go for it.

#28 7 months ago

To me, I would check the back glass for flaking or missing paint and check the playfield for wear (around inserts not the stupid shooter lane...) if those are nice, you can fix the rest and I would take a chance!

#29 7 months ago

Like mentioned, games from this era are super easy to fix most of the time.
I'd go for it if your looking to learn, $800 is a descent price for a project globetrotters.
Just keep in mind, getting a game like this to play well/reliably is usually a big undertaking.
Especially if you've never done one.

Most of my early SS games I put way more into them (hours, $), then I'd ever get selling them.

#30 7 months ago

make sure you got some cash left over for all the tools (unless you already have them) I personally think the best part of pinball is fixing them

#31 7 months ago
Quoted from ItsBwalt:

Looks pretty damn clean actually.

Quoted from alexanr1:

I would be getting this battery removed ASAP! Can’t believe it hasn’t leaked.
[quoted image]

It did leak. There is a large area of battery damage to the left and right of the battery. All that discoloration is corrosion.

That's probably the main problem right there as to why the game won't boot.

#32 7 months ago

Don’t do it for $800
Playfield has big wear spot from what I can see
Also repairing may be hard as you are newby

Offer $600 and give you some room for parts / boards and possible prof repair guy

#33 7 months ago
Quoted from rvdv:

Playfield has big wear spot from what I can see
Also repairing may be hard as you are newby

Yeah, that's a pretty big eye sore that would drastically affect the value of the game.

#34 7 months ago
Quoted from ForceFlow:

Yeah, that's a pretty big eye sore that would drastically affect the value of the game.

Thankfully it’s an area of solid colors, not oddball textures and people.

This could be a decent opportunity for OP to also learn color matching and touch ups (as long as willing to do it the right way and not use Sharpies).

My first game DE Simpsons had wear in all the non Mylar major offending areas and I spent a lot of time making that game look so nice with the art, people never questioned it. This HG looks substantially easier to touch up.

#35 7 months ago

Some frisket paper, xacto knife and an airbrush would fix the wear spots in a jiffy. Any noob can do it with a little patience.

#36 7 months ago

That’s weird about the wear spot on the playfield because I don’t see any wear around the inserts. The spinners look nice. Hard to tell with the backglass. I see maybe a scratch but no major chunks of art missing. It appears to be in pretty decent shape cosmetically but it is hard to tell from pictures.

Aside from what has already been mentioned about the alkaline damage on the MPU and the burned connectors on the rectifier board (just replace the rectifier board for $50 from barakandl https://nvram.weebly.com/new-pcbs.html , replace and repin rectifier connectors) I would want to know if all of the plasma displays are working with no burn marks before I paid upwards of $800 for it.

This would be a good project pin to learn on, if that is something you might enjoy or some skills that you want to learn.

#37 7 months ago
Quoted from Pecos:

That’s weird about the wear spot on the playfield because I don’t see any wear around the inserts. The spinners look nice. Hard to tell with the backglass. I see maybe a scratch but no major chunks of art missing. It appears to be in pretty decent shape cosmetically but it is hard to tell from pictures.
Aside from what has already been mentioned about the alkaline damage on the MPU and the burned connectors on the rectifier board (just replace the rectifier board for $50 from barakandl, replace and repin connectors) I would want to know if all of the plasma displays are working with no burn marks before I paid upwards of $800 for it.
This would be a good project pin to learn on, if that is something you might enjoy or some skills that you want to learn.

I agree. I find working on pins just as rewarding as playing them. And there are many people here on pinside that can help if you get stuck. Just be careful getting your first pin. Once you start you will quickly want more.

#38 7 months ago

I would pay as far under $500 as I could get them. That playfield wear is in a bad spot, and plan on new boards or finding a tech to repair them. If backglass is flaking....ugh!

-1
#39 7 months ago

Stay away. Put that money towards something else for a future emergency.

#40 7 months ago
Quoted from ForceFlow:

It did leak. There is a large area of battery damage to the left and right of the battery. All that discoloration is corrosion.
That's probably the main problem right there as to why the game won't boot.

OP never said it wouldn't boot, only prob he mentioned was half the lights aren't working after it was moved. Looks like the left side of the GI is out. A noob will have that diagnosed and fixed in one day with our help. And yes, that connector (all of them) should be replaced on the rectifier board. As well as removing the battery.

You could touch up that pf yourself too - I wouldn't expect a new pin owner to run out and buy airbrushing equipment to start doing pf touchups, that's up to you. So, if you can live with whatever your skill set can do about it (you'd be surprised what a brush can accomplish, or you can live with it the way it is), I'd be all over this. Take a good look at the backglass....

I'd offer 550 and try to end up at 650.00, top end $750.00. You wont lose money at that price, even if you cant fix it and want to sell it next month.

#41 7 months ago

offer him $500

#42 7 months ago
Quoted from pinzrfun:

OP never said it wouldn't boot, only prob he mentioned was half the lights aren't working after it was moved.

Other way around:

Quoted from ItsBwalt:

Seller claims it worked 100% before moving, now only half the lights turn on.

And the photo shows GI partially on, and nothing to show that the game has booted, which is consistent with the battery damage.

Quoted from Scoot:

Some frisket paper, xacto knife and an airbrush would fix the wear spots in a jiffy. Any noob can do it with a little patience.

Easier said than done. Paint matching can be difficult.

#43 7 months ago
Quoted from ForceFlow:

Other way around:

And the photo shows GI partially on, and nothing to show that the game has booted, which is consistent with the battery damage.

Ah, i stand corrected then, good catch - could be battery corrosion, could be that baked connector on the rectifier board - I think that orange wire takes the juice up to the driver board, and without that, nothing.

I'd offer $400 and maybe go $550.00.

#44 7 months ago

Did the seller say it’s probably just a fuse?

#47 7 months ago

Wow thanks for all the replies. I already learned a lot just from reading and googling what boards do what and how to repin. Spent a couple hours on youtube. I definitely am interested in learning to fix pins now.

I have some bad news though. I offered the seller $100 less than asking price and he said he's already way to low because it should be 1200, then told me he doesn't have time for people to just come look at it and not buy lol. Red flags. I think I offended him haha. Back on the hunt.

#48 7 months ago

That dude should be happy with 700. Also I would not make a lower offer until you showed up and looked at the game.

#49 7 months ago

Don't fret. There are tons of games out there.

Summer is usually a better time of year to get deals. Guys aren't concentrating as much on games when it's nice outside.

#50 7 months ago
Quoted from ItsBwalt:

Wow thanks for all the replies. I already learned a lot just from reading and googling what boards do what and how to repin. Spent a couple hours on youtube. I definitely am interested in learning to fix pins now.
I have some bad news though. I offered the seller $100 less than asking price and he said he's already way to low because it should be 1200, then told me he doesn't have time for people to just come look at it and not buy lol. Red flags. I think I offended him haha. Back on the hunt.

Just tell him offer stands and to reach out if he changes his mind. Might be surprised.

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