(Topic ID: 138555)

Wh2O Restoration: Ride The Rapids


By Skins

4 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 145 posts
  • 31 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by Elicash
  • Topic is favorited by 34 Pinsiders

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There are 145 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 3.
#51 4 years ago

Thanks. Another coat in the books. Hopefully one more and then decals.
image.jpegimage.jpeg

Also got a little more tear down done.

image.jpegimage.jpeg

#52 4 years ago

I have blue transparent targets where the hotfoot white targets are. I didn't know this wasn't stock. I really like the look of mine when compared to the white targets.

#53 4 years ago

I have several questions on your paint;

1) are you spraying a latex based or oil based paint?

2) Brand?

3) custom mix or stock color?

#54 4 years ago
Quoted from Kerry_Richard:

I have several questions on your paint;
1) are you spraying a latex based or oil based paint?
2) Brand?
3) custom mix or stock color?

1. It is a modified polyurethane alkyd enamel.
2. It is a regional paint vendor called McCormick paints. Sherwin Williams has the same paint though.
3. Custom matched to the decals.

#55 4 years ago
Quoted from Fifty:

I have blue transparent targets where the hotfoot white targets are. I didn't know this wasn't stock. I really like the look of mine when compared to the white targets.

I haven't even begun to identify what is not stock on this game. There are tons of hacks. Thanks for the heads up on the targets.

#56 4 years ago
Quoted from Skins:

1. It is a modified polyurethane alkyd enamel.
2. It is a regional paint vendor called McCormick paints. Sherwin Williams has the same paint though.
3. Custom matched to the decals.

Great Thanks for the info!

2 weeks ago... I re-sprayed my head (inside, near translight & speakers/display) and inside cab box with Rustoliem Enamel gloss "Deep Blue". I really like the gloss reflection look, especially inside the cabinet, next to playfield.

Plus, I like enamel, as I believe it more forgiving on scratches and marks from playfield & speaker panel removal.

Your game is looking good... keep up the great work!

#57 4 years ago

Sanded and ready for another coat.

image.jpeg

#58 4 years ago
Quoted from Skins:

I haven't even begun to identify what is not stock on this game. There are tons of hacks. Thanks for the heads up on the targets.

The white ones are stock. The green targets on yours are not correct. Those should be transparent green. I would suggest adding the ramp guards from cliffy and the ones that go behind the targets (can't remember who makes those).

#59 4 years ago
Quoted from judremy:

The white ones are stock. The green targets on yours are not correct. Those should be transparent green. I would suggest adding the ramp guards from cliffy and the ones that go behind the targets (can't remember who makes those).

Thanks. I have two transparent green ones and the ramp guards. Mantis makes them btw.

#60 4 years ago

Yes, Mantis. White is stock, transparent green is also stock. I was just saying I like the look of the transparent blue there. I'll take a photo of it and post.

#61 4 years ago

Decals tomorrow. Still wish the bottom cleaned up better but it still looks sharp. image.jpeg

#62 4 years ago

It's looking good. I know the "proper" way to do it is to sand the bottom and leave it as-is. My own preference is to paint it the same color as the cab. I personally think it looks a lot cleaner.

#63 4 years ago

And the harness is off.

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#64 4 years ago

Decals on.

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#65 4 years ago

WOW... looking really good!

#66 4 years ago

Just out of curiousity, why work so hard painting/sandings sides multiple times only to cover with decals?

AMAZING work so far....this is on "my list"

#67 4 years ago
Quoted from mamemaster:

Just out of curiousity, why work so hard painting/sandings sides multiple times only to cover with decals?
AMAZING work so far....this is on "my list"

Some say not to. The high sheen finish shows many imperfections that primer won't. As I apply finish coats, I'm filling minor imperfections and the sanding levels the surface. In the end, the sides getting decals get lightly sanded to knock down and irregularities and is then wiped with a tac cloth. The end result is a mirror like surface. Extra work, yes but wirth it imo.

#69 4 years ago
Quoted from mamemaster:

Just out of curiousity, why work so hard painting/sandings sides multiple times only to cover with decals?

I've done many decals (pinball & arcade games). Preparation is key (fill, putty, sand, then prime/paint, repeat and 2-3 times). The slightest dimple, dust and/or any imperfection will show like a pimple, in the center of your forehead.

#70 4 years ago
Quoted from Kerry_Richard:

I've done many decals (pinball & arcade games). Preparation is key (fill, putty, sand, then prime/paint, repeat and 2-3 times). The slightest dimple, dust and/or any imperfection will show like a pimple, in the center of your forehead.

Well put.

Looks fantastic!

#71 4 years ago

Silk screens on. Also started getting the shop out decals installed. image.jpegimage.jpegimage.jpeg

#72 4 years ago

Took a break from the restore to get this put together
image.jpeg

I have been needing blast cabinet to prep for powder coating. The damn harbor freight thing was a pia to put together. Hopefully I can start powder coating the cab metals to start getting the cab reassembled.

#73 4 years ago

So I was itching to try out my blast cabinet. I tried out powder coating the cab parts a yellow that's a near match to the whitewater cab lettering. If I don't like it, I can blast it again. I don't know how I lived without a blast cabinet.

Before:
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After:
image.jpeg
image.jpegimage.jpeg

#74 4 years ago

Holly mackerel! This is opening the door for all sorts of new possibilities. Well done!

#75 4 years ago

Thank you.

I usually polish these types of parts to a high shine but on this game, the metal was in poor shape and wasn't shining well so I said what the hell. I actually have less time in powder coating versus polishing.

Another piece completed; the rear vent screen. It is just tacked up there with one screw. image.jpeg

#76 4 years ago

I think you should just send yours my way,and I'll send you mine
Looking good so far.

#77 4 years ago

This is going to look so sick. Do you have access to a local powder coating shop or something?

#78 4 years ago

Thank you. No shop, just do the small parts in a large toaster over in my garage. Larger parts like rails and legs get farmed out to a local shop.

#79 4 years ago

Lockdown receiver done. I tried cooking the powder with the rubber handle in place and it melted so I have to buy some plasti-dip but other than that, it turned out sweet. Not perfect like a real shop would do but great for under the playfield stuff. Especially considering the shape most of the metals were/are in.

Before:
image.jpegimage.jpegimage.jpeg

After blasting:
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After powder coating:
image.jpegimage.jpeg

Installed:

image.jpegimage.jpeg

#80 4 years ago

Wow, that looks really nice.

#81 4 years ago

Very impressive!

#82 4 years ago

Very nice work. I just so happen to be in the market for a WW so I've seen the good and the bad thats out there. Your pin looks like it will be a 10 when completed.

#83 4 years ago

Thank you for all the kind words. It is appreciated.

On to the light board. The front is drying from the base coat application. Once dry, I will lightly sand it and put a couple more finish coats on it. The back side will be sealed with polyurethane.

Before:
image.jpegimage.jpeg

After:
image.jpeg

#84 4 years ago

Slow going during the week. I was able to work on some leg plates.

Side by side comparison and mocked up in place.

image.jpegimage.jpegimage.jpeg

#85 4 years ago

This is gonna look so sweet you'll never be able to play it since you'll want to keep the playfield up all the time.

#86 4 years ago

ground braid installed. I deviated a little bit in an attempt to make it look cleaner. Some of the runs could have been straighter but overall it looks good. I still need to solder lugs on the ends that attach to the service box.

image.jpegimage.jpegimage.jpeg

#87 4 years ago

Wow man, that looks amazing! Nice work!

#88 4 years ago

inexcusable that the ground braid is grey instead of yellow/orange

Really enjoying this. I may start my WH20 over New Years. But the cabinet work makes me nervous. When you apply the decals, do you use any particular tools? How do you make the edges so clean? Do you cut in a quarter inch from edge?

I have seen McCune's video, he just makes it look way too easy. Sounds like most important step is the sanding, bondo, prep.

#89 4 years ago

I was wondering how you cut your edges so clean on your decals also?

#90 4 years ago

Very jealous of your blasting booth and powder coating! Powder all the things!

#91 4 years ago
Quoted from Elicash:

inexcusable that the ground braid is grey instead of yellow/orange
Really enjoying this. I may start my WH20 over New Years. But the cabinet work makes me nervous. When you apply the decals, do you use any particular tools? How do you make the edges so clean? Do you cut in a quarter inch from edge?
I have seen McCune's video, he just makes it look way too easy. Sounds like most important step is the sanding, bondo, prep.

Quoted from woody76:

I was wondering how you cut your edges so clean on your decals also?

I use a standard razor blade. I hold the blade at a fat 45 degrees to cut the decal back from each face of the corner. The key is to have straight and true corners/edges. Any slight ding or impression in the corner edge causes you to nick the decal or dig into the wood. The other key for me is to make one steady consistent pull. I try to grasp both ends of the blade with both hands, index finger and thumb on each hand. My index fingers are bent at roughly 90 degrees. This allows me to run my index finger along the face of each side of the cabinet. That way the blade is stabilized and not fluctuating on the angle it is cutting. I hope that makes sense?

Thanks everyone for the compliments.

#92 4 years ago
Quoted from dudah:

Very jealous of your blasting booth and powder coating! Powder all the things!

I love the booth. I have been etching mason jars for my mom. She's using them for Christmas stuff. I'm blasting everything I can find. Wish I had bought one sooner.

#93 4 years ago
Quoted from Skins:

Before and after comparisons:
image.jpg image.jpg
image.jpg
image.jpg

What sealer are you using?

#94 4 years ago

Run of the mill polyurethane satin. Milwax maybe?

#95 4 years ago
Quoted from Elicash:

But the cabinet work makes me nervous. When you apply the decals, do you use any particular tools? How do you make the edges so clean? Do you cut in a quarter inch from edge?
I have seen McCune's video, he just makes it look way too easy. Sounds like most important step is the sanding, bondo, prep.

My two cents on the topic, after having done it for the first time.

(1) The prep work is critical. Every detail shows through the newly applied decals.

(2) I'd apply the decals wet. I followed Rob Milla's video

to the letter (also using the transformer as a weight) and it worked out great. The downside to doing it wet is that it is a bit messier (you have to use paper towels to protect the cabinet from the application fluid (i.e. windex) and you have to wait for the decal to dry (a few days) before you can do the other side. The cuts you do right away.

(3) I cut using a Xacto knife using a new blade about 1-2 mm away from the edge. But I had not bevelled the egdes. It may look like 1/4" because of the bevel, but I think in reality, the cut is also very close to the actual edge. If you cut too far away, it will look awful. You are better off cutting as close as you can.

#96 4 years ago
Quoted from lb1:

My two cents on the topic, after having done it for the first time.
(1) The prep work is critical. Every detail shows through the newly applied decals.
(2) I'd apply the decals wet. I followed Rob Milla's video ยป YouTube video to the letter (also using the transformer as a weight) and it worked out great. The downside to doing it wet is that it is a bit messier (you have to use paper towels to protect the cabinet from the application fluid (i.e. windex) and you have to wait for the decal to dry (a few days) before you can do the other side. The cuts you do right away.
(3) I cut using a Xacto knife using a new blade about 1-2 mm away from the edge. But I had not bevelled the egdes. It may look like 1/4" because of the bevel, but I think in reality, the cut is also very close to the actual edge. If you cut too far away, it will look awful. You are better off cutting as close as you can.

No offense to Rob, but that's one hell of a lot of work to install a decal. It also looks like an accident just waiting to happen.

#97 4 years ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

No offense to Rob, but that's one hell of a lot of work to install a decal. It also looks like an accident just waiting to happen.

I hear you. The firm time around though, after 30 hours of prep work, personally, the last thing I needed was to screw up the install.
If you really know what you're doing, I'm sure dry's the way to go.

#98 4 years ago
Quoted from lb1:

I hear you. The firm time around though, after 30 hours of prep work, personally, the last thing I needed was to screw up the install.
If you really know what you're doing, I'm sure dry's the way to go.

Hey. If it works for you, that's all that matters.

5 months later
#99 3 years ago

So I have been taking a break from pinside and I have been slowly working on the restoration. The game is sold to a pinsider so I figured I would update this thread as well.

Coin door reconditioned and powder coated.image_(resized).jpegimage_(resized).jpegimage_(resized).jpegimage_(resized).jpeg

#100 3 years ago

I'm curious to see how the cabinet turns out, I have been thinking of powder coating my armor yellow as well. Looking good so far!

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