(Topic ID: 138555)

Wh2O Restoration: Ride The Rapids


By Skins

4 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 145 posts
  • 31 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by Elicash
  • Topic is favorited by 34 Pinsiders

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There are 145 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 3.
#1 4 years ago

So I am coming close to wrapping up my AFM restoration so I figured I would document this restore as well. Like my AFM, wh2o have live a long route life and it shows. I bought this game during the Texas pinball festival auction online and had it shipped from Texas. I want to get the cab done before the cold sets in so now is the time.

The boards are hacked up pretty bad. I sent them off to Clive to see what he can do.
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The cabinet has some very poor touch ups, flipper button wear, corner separation and is dirtier than my AFM. I have a long road ahead of me.

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#2 4 years ago

Few more pics of how it sits now

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#3 4 years ago

Very cool, I'll be following this one. Please document how you deal with the cab separation. I'm about to start a fish tales restore with cab separating at the front-left.

*edit* I can also help with any pics you might need.

#4 4 years ago
Quoted from JosephT:

Very cool, I'll be following this one. Please document how you deal with the cab separation. I'm about to start a Fish Tales restore with cab separating at the front-left.
*edit* I can also help with any pics you might need.

Sure thing. I briefly show how I repair some slight corner separation on my AFM here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/afm-restore-alien-invasion

#5 4 years ago

I bet it will look amazing when 100%

#6 4 years ago

So while I try to figure out my AFM issue, that restore is on temporary hold. I figured I would get some more work done on wh2o.

Did I mention it's filthy dirty?image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg

More tear down pictures.
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I hope to get the glueing of the corner done and dry today so I can start sanding tomorrow.

#7 4 years ago

Oh I forget this great previously done cab repaint
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#8 4 years ago

Cabinet glueing has commenced...

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#9 4 years ago

I figured I would start sanding while the glue setup. Slow going...image.jpg

#10 4 years ago

Best of luck, wh2o is a worthy restore machine, but could be the most expensive to restore as well. I have had four of them, and sold the third one to buy a fully restored machine with new playfields for over $6k. After doing the math, it was a bargain and will never leave. Color dmd is great on it, and probably one of the most underrated machines. Some seem to dislike the theme/music, but i love it. Cant wait to see how it progresses,

#11 4 years ago

Thanks for documenting this one. You have to be the most productive restorer of the moment.

#12 4 years ago
Quoted from lb1:

Thanks for documenting this one. You have to be the most productive restorer of the moment.

Thanks. I definitely enjoy doing it. Not sure I would call myself a restorer; I just enjoy documenting the progress from beater to beauty.

So I reset the clamps to glue the rear panel/corners soo I sanded the other side today. For whatever reason, this side was adhered much more aggressively. Once the clamps are off I'll pull the rails and clean up the sides.
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The corner trued up nicely and the separation was closed. It will still require filling but it presents a nice foundation. Note the the previous owner sunk nails into the corner to try to bring the joint together.
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#13 4 years ago

Still debating my wh20 backbox restoration. I have decals and was going to try spray paint.

Honestly the thing that is stopping me is the popping off the head.

#14 4 years ago

It's nothing really. 6 bolts for the hinges. You can leave the hinges attached to the cab. Label the wires and disconnect the harnesses. With labeling everything, it shouldn't take more than 20-25 mins to remove it.

#15 4 years ago

It's the wiring that unnerves me for some odd reason. I don't know why.
I popped the head off a taxi once and it wasn't too bad. Just need to do it I guess.

#16 4 years ago

What sorta wood putty compound are you going to use?

#17 4 years ago

Everything I've seen so far is insignificant enough to only warrant bondo.

Most plugs are unique enough by size and key to the plug next to it, that once a few are set, the rest fall into place. It's really not that bad. I use painters blue table and a sharpie to mark them.

#18 4 years ago

Everything stripped out. What a filthy mess.

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Just started sanding the inside. A long way to go. Starting to see how it will clean up.
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Exterior decals removed and rough sanded. Finish sanding and filling up next.

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#19 4 years ago

You're doing God's work my friend. Thanks for posting!

#20 4 years ago

Was that machine in a flood?

#21 4 years ago

Not thay I know of or see evidence of. What makes you think that?

#22 4 years ago

Just noticed some mud looking stuff on the playfield glass in those photos.

#23 4 years ago

Oh, that is dry red powder coat material from shooting powder in my garage.

#24 4 years ago

Just when I thought the glueing was done, I noticed the back wood that the rear plastic glass trim mounts to was split in half. Out come the clamps.
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Rough sanding nearly done. I still need to get the inside 90's and corners. Almost ready to fill and finish sand.

1 week later
#25 4 years ago

Moving along slowly. This cabinet needs a lot of tlc!

I noticed one of the vent holes in the head was misshaped and the tell tale paint flashing of bonds that wasn't primed before it was painted. image.jpgimage.jpg

Further inspection on the inside shows the extent of the damage and the half assed repair.image.jpg

Here it is in its entirety once the paint was removed. I will have to rework and reshape the bondo of this area by hand. image.jpg

The front 45 angle the light boards for the topper mount to was split so more glueing.

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Keeping with the filthy nature of the game, the head was no different.
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#26 4 years ago

New oak chalks measured, cut and installed. image.jpg

#27 4 years ago

Very inspiring thread for me. I have a WH2O cabinet that I would like to attempt to refinish. This would be my first kick at this. I see you're going through a few sanding discs.

#28 4 years ago

Nice work so far Skins, can you tell me what grit sand-discs you're using? I like the idea of sanding off the artwork as opposed to the heat gun.

I tried it with 220 grit (working on a FT cab atm), but it was slow going and figured I needed to go a bit heavier.

#29 4 years ago
Quoted from JosephT:

Nice work so far Skins, can you tell me what grit sand-discs you're using? I like the idea of sanding off the artwork as opposed to the heat gun.
I tried it with 220 grit (working on a FT cab atm), but it was slow going and figured I needed to go a bit heavier.

Yeah, 220 is way too fine to cut the vinyl that is adhered to the cab. I use 80 or 120 depending on how well it is cutting. After the decals are off I then go to 220 to finish the cab off.

Quoted from Fifty:

Very inspiring thread for me. I have a WH2O cabinet that I would like to attempt to refinish. This would be my first kick at this. I see you're going through a few sanding discs.

Thanks. Yep, lots of sand discs.

#30 4 years ago

The head is almost done being sanded. I had to clamp and glue a few joints. Tomorrow I plan on sealing the bottom of the cab. image.jpg

#31 4 years ago

Sealed bottom:
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The inside is still wet but the sealer looks blotchy in a few spots. May have to sand it and seal it again. image.jpg

#32 4 years ago

Before and after comparisons:
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#33 4 years ago

Love these threads, wish I could find a WH20 to restore in MN

Great work so far Skins, I'm looking forward to the progress pics throughout!

#34 4 years ago

Great looking work. Looking forward to the continued progress.

#35 4 years ago

Nice. You got yourself a LANIEL AUTOMATIC machine. Same as mine.

#36 4 years ago

The repair of the vent hole is shaping up nicely. It is roughed in. I just have to fill a few low spots. You can tell how much I had to fill (darker red bondo) to get the hole back in shape.
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#37 4 years ago
Quoted from Fifty:

Nice. You got yourself a LANIEL AUTOMATIC machine. Same as mine.

Thanks for posting that. I wasn't aware of the marking. I looked them up on google. Pretty interesting read.

#38 4 years ago

Love these restoration documentation threads, thanks for doing it!

What length pipe do you use in your pipe clamps (for both length and width of cab)? Looking to invest in a set and I'd love to get the right length pipe the first time out.

#39 4 years ago

Thanks for saying so. The long one is 5' and the short is 3'

#40 4 years ago
Quoted from Skins:

Thanks for saying so. The long one is 5' and the short is 3'

Thanks! Would that work for a B/W wide body as well?

#41 4 years ago

I'm not sure. I haven't used them on a wide body. Be sure to get galvanized pipe though. It's a little more money buy doesn't have the protective urethane coating on it the smudges off and won't rust like black iron pipe will.

#42 4 years ago
Quoted from Skins:

I'm not sure. I haven't used them on a wide body. Be sure to get galvanized pipe though. It's a little more money buy doesn't have the protective urethane coating on it the smudges off and won't rust like black iron pipe will.

Thanks again for the pointers (and at least at Lowes, which does free pipe cutting and threading, galvanized is actually a bit cheaper than black iron)!

Looking back at your pictures it looks like you also used the 3' pipe clamps to do the backbox, which as I understand it is the same size on regular and wide body pins (and of course wider than the body on either of them). So I'll go with the 3' and 5' pipe lengths as you suggested.

#43 4 years ago

Ready for primer. I'm sure I will find plenty of more spots to drill once the primer is on.

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#44 4 years ago

Quality work on one of the dirtiest cabs I've seen in awhile. Can't wait to see how the metal pieces turn out, your polishing skills are impressive.

1 week later
#45 3 years ago

Small update. With expo last week and getting sick this week, I haven't done anything. I did get word from Clive at coinop cauldron my boards are done. The mpu was shot so no work there. I did get a replacement from Chris Hibler at expo though.

Clive's report:

Your Power Driver board went through an over four hour repair yesterday and was worse than first thought. The prior repairs had damaged the traces to every bridge and filter capacitor, xero-crossing and some of the general illumination resulting in 27 traces having to be repaired. The plate-through holes had been patched with tiny 30 gauge wire. The board is now repaired and had been on test all day with no issues. Your remaining boards are also ready.

Repair details (all new parts):

Williams WPC-89 CPU board (SN 50013 773386, Whitewater (L-3) with prior repairs): Hacked beyond repair:

Williams WPC-89 Sound board (SN 50004 854502, Whitewater. Bad logic/ROMs. Capacitors virtually open circuit/dried out. Playing wrong sounds): Removed and checked all socketed ICs from board. New/NOS U15 Sound ROM (original failed to verify). U14 and U18 ROMs removed and internal data verified (Vcc +/- 0.25v). New 5864 Static RAM IC and 28-pin socket. LM1875 amplifier and TO-220 Sil-pad. 4x 1uf/35v tantalum capacitors (C28, C29, C46, C47). 22uf/50v/105c, 5x 47uf/25v, 2x 47uf/35v/105c, 100uf/25v/105c and 2x 4700uf/35v/105c capacitors. All headers and fuses reflowed. Fuses removed and checked -- okay. Two-tier full functional testing:

Williams Dot Matrix Controller board (SN 51439101391): All components checked/measured. Fuses removed and checked. Board cleaned up. Two-tier full functional testing:

Williams WPC-3 Power Driver board (SN 52517240332. Numerous prior repairs. Wires on rear. Used parts in prior repairs. Many damaged traces. Low voltage output): Removed all prior repairs from circuit board. 7812 voltage regulator and TO-220 Sil-pad (Q2). 2N5401 transitor (Q29). TIP102 transistor (Q30). 27 damaged traces repaired. All remaining transistors checked. C2 (100uf/50v/105c), C4 (100uf/16v), C5, C6, C7, C11, C30 (5x 15000uf/25v/105c) and C8 (100uf/100v/105c) capacitors. BR1, BR2, BR3, BR4 and BR5 (5x GBPC3506) bridge rectifiers. J101, J114, J115, J120 and J121 upgraded to high temperature headers. 0.33uf/35v military grade tantalum capacitor (C9). 10k 1/2 watt resistor (R260). +5 volt boost modification (22 ohms). Fuses removed and checked, -- 3 amp (F103) and 8 amp (F114) due to incorrect ratings. Reflowed solder at various areas around board to fix suspect or cracked solder joints. Board cleaned-up. Two-tier full functional testing:

Williams Fliptronic II (no serial number): 4x 3 amp slow blow fuses (fuses installed ranged from 5 to 8 amps). Added missing 100uf/100v capacitor (C2). Replaced out of tolerance capacitor at C1 (100uf/25v/105c). All components checked. Reflow bridge rectifier, fuse holders and headers. Two-tier full functional testing:

Whitewater Lamp Sequence board: Reflow all header pins to fix cracked solder joints. Replaced failing C1 capacitor (100uf/50v/105c). Two-tier full functional testing

2 weeks later
#46 3 years ago

Haven't got around to painting the cab yet but I started stripping the playfield. I hope to make better progress once fall leaf cleanup and getting my property winter ready is done.
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#47 3 years ago

Finally, primer is on. Lots of blemishes exposed. Next up, more sanding and filling.

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#48 3 years ago

Looking great. Primer is always a great stage. It just makes everything one colour and allows you to appreciate what will be.

#49 3 years ago

First base coat of color. With this deep of blue, multiple coats will be needed with sanding between coats.
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#50 3 years ago

Thats looking pretty good
I have to start mine soon to,I have the new play fields so far.

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