White Water
Williams, 1993Error msg 62 popping up all of a sudden. I tried another set of optos that work and still no good so it seems to be something in the wiring or board. Unplugged and plugged back all terminals on the opto board and main board. No go. Visually on the board I don't see any burnt spots or components. Any ideas? Thx
Chris
This sounds much like a problem I had two weeks ago, I disconnected and reconnected and nothing worked, switched the optos, checked boards, checked for bad wires, etc...
I wound up checking the transmitting opto after a friend recommended me to do so with a camera (iphone 4 will work) to see if infrared was passing through the diode, and when I did that for some odd reason or another things started to work. Not sure if that was exactly a fix though or if my machine was just messing with me however.
Quoted from LTG:Don't forget an opto switch is part of your switch matrix. You could have a broken wire at another switch killing it.
Grab a manual and check switches on the same row or column as #62.
LTG : )
Thanks Lloyd. All switches on same row/column test ok. The whirlpool exit error msg is also the only one i get in test. Ill keep looking around.
Quoted from creyes82:This sounds much like a problem I had two weeks ago, I disconnected and reconnected and nothing worked, switched the optos, checked boards, checked for bad wires, etc...
I wound up checking the transmitting opto after a friend recommended me to do so with a camera (iphone 4 will work) to see if infrared was passing through the diode, and when I did that for some odd reason or another things started to work. Not sure if that was exactly a fix though or if my machine was just messing with me however.
Yeah but I tried working optos on that plug and they didn't work there either.
Quoted from cclay:Thanks Lloyd. All switches on same row/column test ok. The whirlpool exit error msg is also the only one i get in test. Ill keep looking around.
Maybe I wasn't clear enough.
Whether a switch is working or not, you could have a wire broken off of a switch, killing others.
As in look the switches over for a wire nearby that came off.
LTG : )
Shine a flashlight on the receiver in switch mode. If it closes, it is emitter related. I have a funky problem that pops up on my WH2O involving alignment. For whatever reason, the opto switch at the Lost Mine kickout has very little wiggle room. it has to be perfectly aligned to close.
Loosen the hold down screws on the transmitter and move it around slightly to see if the switch closes and needs to be realigned.
Dan
I had a problem with a WH2O opto. If I remember correctly all whirlpool shots were registering as Lost Mine shots. After a lot of troubleshooting the problem was that the opto receiver was picking up light from someplace else other than the emitter. Used a little electricians tape on the receiving opto to narrow down the "path" and it worked!
Quoted from TavaLee:I had a problem with a WH2O opto. If I remember correctly all whirlpool shots were registering as Lost Mine shots. After a lot of troubleshooting the problem was that the opto receiver was picking up light from someplace else other than the emitter. Used a little electricians tape on the receiving opto to narrow down the "path" and it worked!
Whoa! That's exactly what mine was doing at first. Registering a Lost Mine shot. It's not doing that now but you might be onto something. Which one is the receiving opto?
I don't have any idea whether it's is coincedence or not but this all started with my right lock target not working. A wire had come loose. I soldered it and that's exactly when the whirlpool shot started registering as a lost mine shot. I didn't do anything to the machine beyond that then the lost mine shot error went away all of a sudden. I noticed the bigfoot diverter getting a little off time when I would hit bigfoot bluff. Now, the diverter has quit working all together. Strange.
Quoted from cclay:I don't have any idea whether it's is coincedence or not but this all started with my right lock target not working. A wire had come loose. I soldered it
Be sure you soldered it back on in the right spot.
Look at your other targets, see where the white wires goes, see where the green wire goes, see where the black end of diode goes and where the silver banded end of diode goes.
Same spot on every switch.
LTG : )
Quoted from LTG:Be sure you soldered it back on in the right spot.
Look at your other targets, see where the white wires goes, see where the green wire goes, see where the black end of diode goes and where the silver banded end of diode goes.
Same spot on every switch.
LTG : )
You beat me to it as usually!
Dan
Quoted from MrWizzo:You beat me to it as usually!
I waited as long as I could and then gave up and hit reply.
LTG : )
Quoted from LTG:Be sure you soldered it back on in the right spot.
Look at your other targets, see where the white wires goes, see where the green wire goes, see where the black end of diode goes and where the silver banded end of diode goes.
Same spot on every switch.
LTG : )
I triple checked that. Same as the left lock target. Plus, when the wire came loose, I saw where it broke at. Still looking around. Gotta be something I'm not seeing.
The diverted fr Bigfoot is triggered by the gate on the upper playfield. The DMD animation is triggered by the switch under the mountain. Your switch up there could be damaged by the ball hits. I have a thread about my wh2o rebuild where I show the switch and where it mounts. Not a pro rebuild, but a great players machine.
Ok. The upper gate micro was not registering. A little adjustment of that and now the diverter is working. But, I am now back to the lost mine mis registration. I think I get it now. If the whirlpool exit does not register via the optos, the logic thinks it's a shot into the lost mine directly because that's where the ball goes to next. Makes total sense now. I need to go back to the whirpool exit optos specifically and see what up with those. As I said earlier, I tried another set of working optos on the harness connector and they did not work either. Will keep searching
I'm out of ideas here. I thought I found it. One of the white/red wires going to the left lock target was hanging by 1 strand. Resoldered it but whirlpool exit opto still not registering. The opto board shows no sign of a problem. All other switches and opto work with no other error messages. Where do I look next?
Quoted from cclay:Where do I look next?
Back here from your earlier post "Yeah but I tried working optos on that plug and they didn't work there either."
You have a break in wiring from opto to opto driver board to CPU, or an issue on the opto driver board.
I'd try a piece of wire and jump that opto switch at the CPU to be sure CPU is working, and if it is, then you know the problem lies from the connector at the CPU to the opto.
LTG : )
Quoted from LTG:Back here from your earlier post "Yeah but I tried working optos on that plug and they didn't work there either."
You have a break in wiring from opto to opto driver board to CPU, or an issue on the opto driver board.
I'd try a piece of wire and jump that opto switch at the CPU to be sure CPU is working, and if it is, then you know the problem lies from the connector at the CPU to the opto.
LTG : )
That's the direction I was thinking but I don't know how to jump at the CPU to test the opto. J207-6 grn/blu is the column wire and J209-2 wht/red is the row wire. White to Green?
Quoted from LTG:Or white to ground.
LTG : )
Just wanted to chime in here and say your helpfulness to the original poster is really cool.
Ok, just so that I fully understand, with the machine on and in test mode, jump the white/red wire at the J209-2 connector at the board to ground? I've never done this before and don't want to short anything out. There is no voltage at that connector? I admittedly don't know much yet about the circuitry of how these optos work.
Yes, ok except for that opto. Now, when I turn the game on, it gives no error msg at all but the opto is still not sensing a ball passing thru. I did a switch edge test again and whirlpool exit is definitely not registering.
Not sure if I'm doing this correctly or not but I'm getting the same voltages on the working opto and the non working opto. Meter set to DC, black lead to ground and red to each of the opto solder points. I get a negative reading on the white opto points and a low positive voltage on the black opto points. Am I testing correctly?
Do you mean a bad opto board or something? It has always worked before and those optos work on other connectors. I'm totally baffled. This all seemed to start when I soldered a wire back on to the right lock target but as far as re-wiring, nothing has been done so I cant think its mis-wiring. Maybe just total coincidence. I think I'll go back to that wire and take it loose and see what happens.
Curious to know, do you by chance have LEDs in your machine? I'm having the same issue as mentioned earlier and I did a little adjustment to my LEDs in that area and my problem seems to be solved.
I removed one damn 4-LED 44 from pinballlife.com back to an incandescent and shits suddenly back to normal. I think they might be called abl_fucking_bright_bayonet for a reason now...979592_10151952102278677_308841816_n.jpg
No, no LED's. I'm losin sleep over this one. There's no reason, especially with all good advice I'm getting here, why I can't figure this out. I can take the optos off another spot and by holding them in my hand, trigger them in test mode. Cant do that with the whirlpool exit optos. Yet I'm getting equal voltages on both. It's not the optos cause they work in the whirlpool popper plug. Gotta be a bad board? i'm going to measure the voltages again at the optos and post them. Maybe someone with a WH20 can do the same to compare?
Ok, here's what I have.
Working Whirlpool popper optos:
White opto: grey wire 1.5v, blk wire .1v
Black opto: gry/yellow 13.3v, org 13.2v
Non working Whirlpool exit optos:
White opto: grey wire 1.3v, blk .1v
Black opto: gry/yellow 13.3v, org 13.2v
Seems close enough to me. Are there similar opto boards in TAF, MB, AFM or TZ? If so, I could yank it and try that. Otherwise, I'm at my wits end.
Quoted from cclay:Seems close enough to me. Are there similar opto boards in TAF, MB, AFM or TZ? If so, I could yank it and try that. Otherwise, I'm at my wits end.
Similar optos in those games, though not likely connectors.
Have you tried swapping the working whirlpool optos with the non-working ones ?
LTG : )
Yes I have. The exit optos work in the popper harness. I've played enough games now to where I think the logic has adjusted itself. I no longer am getting a lost mine register when the ball goes into the whirlpool yet the exit optos are still not registering.
Grab manuals for your other games, see if any have the same opto driver board hanging under the playfield, if so try swapping that.
And just to check, the target switch you put the wire back on, are the wires on it now the same pattern as all your other targets ? White wire and black end of diode there, green wire over there, and silver banded end of diode there ?
LTG : )
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wh20-whirlpool-exit-opto-not-working and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.
Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.
Lake Havasu, AZ