(Topic ID: 26463)

WH20 keeps blowing fuse F111


By PinPeet

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 4 posts
  • 3 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 years ago by PinPeet
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

You

Linked Games

#1 6 years ago

Hi,

I changed a lamp and hit a lamp wire agains a flasher wire on the back left of my WH2O.
I shorted. Stupid to leave the machine on.

Anyway.
The fuse F111 blows when I turn the machine on. The flashers do not work anymore.

I read this may be a short in the Bridge Rectifier. But what is it and where is it located? How do I repair this? Is there some test to see if it is really this Rectifier. Or can it be another problem as well?

Thanks for your feeback! (again

#2 6 years ago

Wow.

You are going to need some learning and experience if you want to tackle a bridge rectifier.

I would figure out what F111 controls, unplug it's connector from the power driver board. Then try turning the game on. If F111 blows you have a board issue, if not, then the problem is out in the game somewhere.

Check out Google or YouTube to find out what a bridge rectifier looks like and how to test them.

If it gets to the point yours is bad ( which I doubt ) you'll need to unplug a lot of connectors and remove the board and have the soldering skills to remove the bridge rectifier and replace it without damage to the board.

I'd go over where you worked on the game and be sure you still don't have something shorted.

LTG

#3 6 years ago

F111 is your +20 volts DC for the flashlamp circuit. A shorted flasher socket or a blown Bridge rectifier BR4 is what will cause F111 to blow. I'd replace the bridge first and see if that fixes the problem. I would guess that is the issue since your fuse blows immediately when the game is turned on.

If you want to eliminate it being a shorted flasher socket, disconnect connectors J106 and J107 on your driver board. They send the +20 volts to the head and playfield for the flashers. Turn machine on with those connecters pulled and if your fuse still blows, it's gonna be the bridge. If the fuse does not blow and your bridge is good, turn off the machine and plug in 1 connecter and repeat. J106 goes to the head, J107 goes to playfield. If you plug in J107 and your fuse blows, it's time to go look at all the flasher sockets on the playfield to find the short.

BR4 is located on the driver board in the top right corner. Find the long silver heat sink that runs vertically next to the fuses in the upper right corner of your driver board. To the left of that are two large black caps sitting one over the other. To the left of those are two silver bridge rectifiers sitting side by side. BR 4 is the one on the right sitting next to the caps. You will need a soldering iron, solder sucker, and solder to fix this. If you've never soldered before, you might want to practice on a junk board first or get a friend with soldering experience or repair person in the area to do it for you.

You can get the bridge from MarcoSpecialties, Digikey, Mouser Electronics, or probably most any electronic store in your local area. The stock bridge used is a 35 amp 200 volt, but higher values will also work just fine. For example a 35 amp 400 volt bridge is ok too.

#4 6 years ago

Thanks LTG, thanks Big70!

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
From: $ 40.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
$ 135.00
Lighting - Led
LED OCD

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside