(Topic ID: 328083)

Welp, looks like I fubared my Twilight Zone! DAAAAARRRRRR!

By Doug_Quaid

1 year ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

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Linked Games

#1 1 year ago

My TZ was running a little bit hinky, resetting and that kind of thing, so I decided to unplug and re-plug all the connectors on the PCBs in the backbox.

I unplugged each connector, ONE AT A TIME, and replugged it.

Well, actually I did a couple two at a time to help access the plugs.

Now the game doesn't run, makes a very high pitched electronic noise, and there is trash on the DMD.

Okay, so I checked all the connectors to see if I mis-plugged anything, everything looks good to me.

Now what?

Is there a guide anywhere that shows all the connections on the PCBs? Like maybe photos? So I can figure out the exact nature of my crime?

#2 1 year ago

Your ribbon cable is off one row

Likely cause for your reset issue is the Z connector in the backbox that is between the MPU board and the Power Driver Board

#3 1 year ago

Oh, the mother effing annoyance of this.

#4 1 year ago

I already soldered the z connector a long time ago.

One of you guys told me about it circa 2008.

I having a really bad reset problem and the z connector was definitely the problem.

That's one of those fixes that would take you 100 years to figure out on your own. You look at the connector, it looks fine. but it's actually a turd in sheep's clothing

#5 1 year ago
Quoted from The_Pump_House:

Your ribbon cable is off one row
Likely cause for your reset issue is the Z connector in the backbox that is between the MPU board and the Power Driver Board

I checked all the cables, unplugged and replugged them.

It's working now, thanks.

It doesn't look like it's possible to misalign the pins, but I guess it must be.

#6 1 year ago

The schematics in the owners manual give you the wire colors for each pin of the connectors. You could verify one wire color for each connector to make sure you have them plugged into the right spot. Also, make sure you didn't accidentally plug in the connector one position off where it should be.

Owner's manual can be found on IPDB.org if you don't have it.

#7 1 year ago

Make sure you reseat the connectors coming off the transformer under the playfield as those connections can tarnish too.

#8 1 year ago

Your reset problems will probably reappear, unless you either replace the driver board, or do the Bridge Rectifier tweaks. Get a Rotten Dog driver board and never worry about flaky voltage again!

#9 1 year ago

It takes quite a bit of effort to fubar a WPC machine!

#10 1 year ago
Quoted from elcolonel:

Get a Rotten Dog driver board and never worry about flaky voltage again!

Alternatively think about getting the original board(s) repaired and bullet proofed by a professional.

Had same issues (very common) with my STTNG. Sent MPU and driver boards to Chris Hibler a few weeks ago. Fast turn around. In addition to repair he upgraded the game ROM and added NVRAM. Game works beautifully now.

I had some alkaline damage to repair as well. Price may vary depending on the amount of damage, etc. For me all of that was less than the price of the Rottendog driver board.

And I personally would rather have my professionally repaired and updated original driver and MPU than a driver board replacement. Just a suggestion.

http://chrishiblerpinball.com/

#11 1 year ago
Quoted from elcolonel:

Your reset problems will probably reappear, unless you either replace the driver board, or do the Bridge Rectifier tweaks. Get a Rotten Dog driver board and never worry about flaky voltage again!

I couldn't disagree more. The 5v supply path on the driver board is relatively simple and inexpensive to update. If you have a clean power driver board why wouldn't you have it professionally repaired for a fraction of the cost of a new driver board? Further, many prospective buyers would rather have an original board vs a rottendog.

I *just* fixed a double flipper reset issue on my TZ. I reflowed the solder on the relevant headers, the 5v voltage regulator, the caps and I swapped out C4. Seems to have done the trick and it cost pennies to do.

If it the issue returns I will just go ahead and rebuild the 5v path which will cost dozens of quarters and minutes of my time.

#12 1 year ago
Quoted from The_Pump_House:

I couldn't disagree more. The 5v supply path on the driver board is relatively simple and inexpensive to update. If you have a clean power driver board why wouldn't you have it professionally repaired for a fraction of the cost of a new driver board? Further, many prospective buyers would rather have an original board vs a rottendog.
I *just* fixed a double flipper reset issue on my TZ. I reflowed the solder on the relevant headers, the 5v voltage regulator, the caps and I swapped out C4. Seems to have done the trick and it cost pennies to do.
If it the issue returns I will just go ahead and rebuild the 5v path which will cost dozens of quarters and minutes of my time.

Not sure what you are disagreeing with. I listed 2 solutions, that a relative newbie, could go down to have a problem free experience going forward. He could very easily just keep the original board, if he chose to replace, and send it along with a future sale. Alternately the BR tweaks I mentioned, are exactly what you are making note of, and are easy to do by OP himself or any of a number of experienced Pinsiders. If you look at the time OP has been a member, and the reaction he had to just not getting connectors replugged correctly, intimating that my suggestions are way off base is frankly way off base!

#13 1 year ago

I think maybe I'll replace all the ribbon cables, the computer nerds say that they are capable of going bad.

Also, I will address the 5v problem as suggested above, my TZ is by far the worst of my pins as far as resetting goes.

#14 1 year ago
Quoted from The_Pump_House:

Make sure you reseat the connectors coming off the transformer under the playfield as those connections can tarnish too.

Thanks, will do.

#15 1 year ago

A Rottendog driver board is not a good solution, in my opinion. Usually move from one issue to another.

I never had any issues fixing reset problems in WPC games, even at shows with games having original boards installed.

Start with reseating J101 and J114 on the driver board and J210 on the MPU board. Look at J101 for any discoloration on the connector housing that are going to the red wires which is where the raw 5 volts comes in from the transformer. That would signal tarnish/burnt pins need to be replaced at this J101. Any improvement from reseating these connectors?

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