Funny I have the same issue. I was 6'7" when I got out of high school and am about 6'5" now. I wanted a 62 back in the late 1970's and found out I couldn't push the clutch pedal down because of my long legs. I thought about setting the seat back a couple inches and getting one with automatic in it but the only automatic in 1962 was a Powerglide and there was no way I wanted a vet with a two speed transmission

Don't get me wrong Powerglides are a solid transmission when built up correctly and we ran them in several of our drag cars "back in the day". But the thoughts of a Powerglide in a vet just didn't set well with me so I gave up on that idea.

In all honesty 112,000 or 12,000 really doesn't matter anyway. It is really all about condition and that vet looks great for a 60 year old car. Biggest issues with the older Corvettes is bad frames. Fiberglass bodies don't rust but steel frames do. As long as frame is good replace your engine, install new bushings in the suspension and put some new ball joints in the front end (if necessary) & check tie rod ends and other wear parts and your Corvette will be like new with "X" number of miles on it.

ENJOY! Great car I just wish I would fit into one!

Be sure to either change or flush out the steel fuel lines, replace any rubber hose in the fuel system, replace fuel filter, etc. There is nothing worse than fighting with "shit" in the fuel system headed up into your carb when you are out for a drive on Saturday afternoon.

New fuel tank is a great starting point but unless you go through everything you are likely just asking for issues down the road.

Sadly brake system will likely need the same treatment. Typically if a car sits for more than a couple years moisture and other contaminates in the brake fluid will goop everything up. Take the time to make sure everything in your brake system is in great condition before driving down the road in that beauty. The last thing you want to do is hit the brake pedal and have the car go faster instead of slowing down!

If you are going to keep the same metal fuel line in the car fill it with something like Berryman B-12 and once you have flushed it completely cap one end and let the "B-12" sit in the line a day or two. Then flush that out with some clean gas to be sure all the varnish buildup is gone.

BE CAREFUL when flushing the line with B-12 because that takes paint off anything it hits. I always used an old electric fuel pump to flush fuel lines in cars that had been sitting more than a year (or so).

Just make 100% sure nothing but fresh clean fuel is going from that fuel tank into a nice carb. The time & effort is well worth it!