Well, I got the machine I wanted.

(Topic ID: 183794)

Well, I got the machine I wanted.

By Terry1

1 year ago

Topic Stats

  • 81 posts
  • 12 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by Pinball_Muggle
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider


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There have been 32 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

may 26th 053 (resized).jpg
Back glass (resized).JPG
ol rusty 4 (resized).JPG
ol rusty 3 (resized).JPG
ol rusty 2 (resized).JPG
ol rusty 1 (resized).JPG
The Machine (resized).JPG
The wire (resized).JPG
ball contacts (resized).JPG
Mangeled 1 (resized).JPG
Bally balls 3 (resized).JPG
Bally ball 2 (resized).JPG
Bally balls 1 (resized).JPG
Bikini CU 2 (resized).JPG
Bikini CU 1 (resized).JPG
Bikini T7 (resized).JPG

There are 81 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.
#51 1 year ago

I just noticed on my back glass there are no red numbers. See pic
Other machines I look at on line have red scoring section.
A poser!!!
Terry K

Back glass (resized).JPG

#52 1 year ago

The red has faded. Happens sometimes. A Bikini glass nos was for sale in MD recently... not sure if it is still available. I believe it was advertised in the bingos on CL thread.

They come up from time to time. If you choose to replace, you could also order a foil from Coos in the Netherlands. Probably less expensive when you factor in shipping!

#53 1 year ago

Looks like all that should be red on your backglass is faded out or white. Not sure what could have caused that to occur. Perhaps lighting of some sort. Here below is a picture of my Bikini which had a NOS (new original stock) backglass in it and is the perfect backglass to compare others against. I bought this NOS one from a vendor in Georgia 15 years ago who had a bunch of magic screen games backglasses in his stock pile.

may 26th 053 (resized).jpg

#54 1 year ago

Thanks for the picture Vic.
My back glass numbers(red) seem very white, almost
like they were never red!
Terry K

#55 1 year ago

The extreme right of the back glass has a string of lights (9)
just to the right of the roll over lights, are they on all the time?

#56 1 year ago

No those are 'teaser' lights to tell you where the time tree will fall if you get the screen feature. One is lit at any given time.

#57 1 year ago

The string of 7 lights just below the A to G, are they also "teaser" lights or are they supposed
to point to the magic screen position you are in at that particular time?
Terry K

#58 1 year ago

They just tell you what position you're in - they're not teasers.

#59 1 year ago

Is it common for the cabinet & head to have different S/N's ?
Terry K

#60 1 year ago

Yes, though the fun part is figuring out why!

In some cases, it was not legal in a locality (like parts of MD) to operate a machine with matching serials. In others, perhaps something happened to the original head.

#61 1 year ago

So, originally, all machines would have been built with matching serial numbers?

#62 1 year ago

Yep! Including the playfields - playfield, lower cab and head should all match.

#63 1 year ago

Well I got a mixed breed!
Cabinet S/N A1733
Head S/N A1387
Play field S/N 1370

#64 1 year ago
Quoted from Terry1:

Well I got a mixed breed!
Cabinet S/N A1733
Head S/N A1387
Play field S/N 1370

Frankenstein Game.

Nice speaking with you today Terry.

#65 1 year ago

Here we go again! How do you remove the pins that hold the
play field springs?
Terry K

#66 1 year ago

Carefully. I use a pin punch from under the playfield. If you hit too hard you can splinter the playfield. Carefully.

#67 1 year ago

So these pins are like nails. I thought they were screwed in.
They seem blunt on the end(under the play field).
They must have been pressed on/in!
Must be a b**** putting one back in and not messing them up.
If I did get them out, can a person get new ones?
If not, I may leave well enough alone!!!!
Terry K
BTW, nice talking you too "Pinball_Muggle"

#68 1 year ago

I use a rubber mallet to help deaden the force when putting them back in. Small taps then larger until it's basically just pushing it down. It's not as bad as it seems, but it seems pretty bad the first time you do it.

#69 1 year ago

Are these pins something that can be had.Or do you try to clean up
what you have?

#70 1 year ago

I always just try to clean up what I have. Usually a bit of metal polish or a run in a tumbler will get them pretty shiny. You can also put them on a wire wheel to clean them. I have worked on games with a lot of mouse/rat urine - those are harder to clean. Actually, the last one like that was a Bikini!

#71 1 year ago

I was wondering that if replacements pins were available, the old ones could
be pulled out like nails; using a small claw hammer and a thin piece of wood under the hammer.

#72 1 year ago

Oh, you're talking about the straight pins? Not the ones that hold the springs? If that's the case, I make them using nails and clip the heads off with a very strong pair of cold steel pliers.

I use a bright steel finish nails to match the look. I set my pliers directly under the head and clip. Looks almost identical. Also, the sharp point helps to get it back in easier.

#73 1 year ago

Nope. I mean the pins holding the springs!

#74 1 year ago

Well, you could try using a claw hammer, but I think you'd probably ruin the spring holders.

Using a pin punch gives you direct application of force to the underside of the spring holder. They are all exposed under the playfield (though you have to flip down the shutter board).

I usually unhook the playfield jones plugs, then put it upside down on a couple of saw horses. Again, go slowly.

They're not available new from anywhere that I'm aware of, but you might find someone with a stash.

#75 1 year ago

I've always resisted the urge to remove playfield items that aren't secured by reversible fasteners (that is, screws). I'm concerned about the risk/reward ratio being skewed too far to the risk side, especially with a playfield that looks as nice as your Bikini. That leaves the spring posts, the nails Nick mentioned, and light post protectors attached to the playfield. You can get a really nice playfield shine with those elements still attached to the playfield. Of course, if you can't abide the oxidized silver color, removal may be your only out...

#76 1 year ago

The spring bumpers can be removed the same way as the spring holders/posts. You have to be even more careful there as the spring steel is very thin. It may break the small weld or pop out of the side. I'm assuming it can be rewelded, but in a worst-case scenario, you would have to replace the whole thing.

BCB is right and sometimes less is more.

#77 1 year ago

Joe Shope is a good source for all parts. He has a bunch of NOS parts from old operator inventory that he bought out. If you google around, you can find a parts catalog he put out around 2008. His contact information is here:


#78 1 year ago

I punched out the spring pins. Really was no problem.
It appears the"nail fence" nails may come out carefully with a claw hammer
as long as the surface of the playfield is protected.
My machine must have been(at one time) stored in a fairly hi humidity setting.
The pins are all corroded , even some relay contacts are a bit rusty.
Have been in contact with Joe S through this work, very helpful!!

#79 1 year ago

the headless nails pull out pretty easily with pliers. I usually used lineman's pliers....they grip well.

dennis amero did a playfield writeup here : https://bingo.cdyn.com/techno/overhaul/playfield/

he made a sleeve for removing the curly rebound spring posts without splintering the playfield. The splintering normally happens right above and below the hole, so if you have extra hands someone can use their fingers to press down on the wood at those spots while the other person bangs out the post from the bottom.

when reinstalling, make really sure you don't pound the posts down too far. If you sink them far enough for the bottom of the post to extend out of the wood - or even flush with it - you may short the bare wires that are running around.

#80 1 year ago

Thanks "baldtwit" for the link! I don't think I'll go the the effort of
removing the arch from the field. I like the gel-gloss idea. I have removed all
the stuff from the playfield. I will clean it up(playfield) and clean the stuff to see if
I can bring the posts and rebound springs back to life. Some of my light shields
are almost brown.

#81 1 year ago

removing PF attached wood is nothing ...
just nailed on
2 minuets to remove - 4 minuets to attach
for heavens sake man.. .. pry it up and make life easy for yourself.

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