The red has faded. Happens sometimes. A Bikini glass nos was for sale in MD recently... not sure if it is still available. I believe it was advertised in the bingos on CL thread.

They come up from time to time. If you choose to replace, you could also order a foil from Coos in the Netherlands. Probably less expensive when you factor in shipping!

Looks like all that should be red on your backglass is faded out or white. Not sure what could have caused that to occur. Perhaps lighting of some sort. Here below is a picture of my Bikini which had a NOS (new original stock) backglass in it and is the perfect backglass to compare others against. I bought this NOS one from a vendor in Georgia 15 years ago who had a bunch of magic screen games backglasses in his stock pile.

may 26th 053 (resized).jpg

No those are 'teaser' lights to tell you where the time tree will fall if you get the screen feature. One is lit at any given time.

They just tell you what position you're in - they're not teasers.

Yes, though the fun part is figuring out why!

In some cases, it was not legal in a locality (like parts of MD) to operate a machine with matching serials. In others, perhaps something happened to the original head.

Yep! Including the playfields - playfield, lower cab and head should all match.

Frankenstein Game.

Nice speaking with you today Terry.

Carefully. I use a pin punch from under the playfield. If you hit too hard you can splinter the playfield. Carefully.

I use a rubber mallet to help deaden the force when putting them back in. Small taps then larger until it's basically just pushing it down. It's not as bad as it seems, but it seems pretty bad the first time you do it.

I always just try to clean up what I have. Usually a bit of metal polish or a run in a tumbler will get them pretty shiny. You can also put them on a wire wheel to clean them. I have worked on games with a lot of mouse/rat urine - those are harder to clean. Actually, the last one like that was a Bikini!

Oh, you're talking about the straight pins? Not the ones that hold the springs? If that's the case, I make them using nails and clip the heads off with a very strong pair of cold steel pliers.

I use a bright steel finish nails to match the look. I set my pliers directly under the head and clip. Looks almost identical. Also, the sharp point helps to get it back in easier.

Well, you could try using a claw hammer, but I think you'd probably ruin the spring holders.

Using a pin punch gives you direct application of force to the underside of the spring holder. They are all exposed under the playfield (though you have to flip down the shutter board).

I usually unhook the playfield jones plugs, then put it upside down on a couple of saw horses. Again, go slowly.

They're not available new from anywhere that I'm aware of, but you might find someone with a stash.

I've always resisted the urge to remove playfield items that aren't secured by reversible fasteners (that is, screws). I'm concerned about the risk/reward ratio being skewed too far to the risk side, especially with a playfield that looks as nice as your Bikini. That leaves the spring posts, the nails Nick mentioned, and light post protectors attached to the playfield. You can get a really nice playfield shine with those elements still attached to the playfield. Of course, if you can't abide the oxidized silver color, removal may be your only out...

The spring bumpers can be removed the same way as the spring holders/posts. You have to be even more careful there as the spring steel is very thin. It may break the small weld or pop out of the side. I'm assuming it can be rewelded, but in a worst-case scenario, you would have to replace the whole thing.

BCB is right and sometimes less is more.

Joe Shope is a good source for all parts. He has a bunch of NOS parts from old operator inventory that he bought out. If you google around, you can find a parts catalog he put out around 2008. His contact information is here:

https://bingo.cdyn.com/market/resources.html

the headless nails pull out pretty easily with pliers. I usually used lineman's pliers....they grip well.

dennis amero did a playfield writeup here : https://bingo.cdyn.com/techno/overhaul/playfield/

he made a sleeve for removing the curly rebound spring posts without splintering the playfield. The splintering normally happens right above and below the hole, so if you have extra hands someone can use their fingers to press down on the wood at those spots while the other person bangs out the post from the bottom.

when reinstalling, make really sure you don't pound the posts down too far. If you sink them far enough for the bottom of the post to extend out of the wood - or even flush with it - you may short the bare wires that are running around.

removing PF attached wood is nothing ...
just nailed on
2 minuets to remove - 4 minuets to attach
for heavens sake man.. .. pry it up and make life easy for yourself.