Well, I got the machine I wanted.

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By Terry1

1 month ago


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#1 38 days ago

Check this out. not impressed with the artistry, but, it is a working machine.
Terry K

Bikini 1 (resized).JPG

Bikini 2 (resized).JPG

Bikini 3 (resized).JPG

Bikini 4 (resized).JPG

Bikini 10 (resized).JPG

#2 38 days ago

Congrats! And with that machine and the right decorations, t-stat at 75 degrees, a drink in your hand and some appropriate music it'll be much cheaper than a trip to the beach.

#3 38 days ago

Congrats! Always time to fix poor painting later. For now get that 2 in the blue!

#4 38 days ago

Thanks for all the congrats!! If the moderator doesn't mind,I would like to run a
real time(sort of) commentary on my progress getting this machine going.
Along the way it may help some one down the road!
Terry K

#5 38 days ago
Quoted from bingopodcast:

For now get that 2 in the blue!

Awful joke opportunity nobody will get here

#6 38 days ago

Cool game. Love the artwork. No room for bingo but looking forward to playing again at the York Show. (I hope you're continuing to make the trip, bingopodcast!)

#7 38 days ago
Quoted from Terry1:

commentary on my progress getting this machine going.

Please do - I'm not a moderator, but that's always a fun read.

If you need any help, first you may wish to do some reading at http://bingo.cdyn.com - you can pull manuals and schematics for your game, as well as score/instruction cards, etc. An invaluable resource!

I also host a show that has some general and specific troubleshooting and cleaning information (along with interviews and more) at http://foramusementonly.libsyn.com if you are an audio kinda guy. General EM, pure mechanical and bingo pinball info there.

Quoted from Otaku:

(I hope you're continuing to make the trip, bingopodcast!)

I, and the Multi, will return this year! I'm not sure how many additional games I will be bringing, but you're gonna have to get some good four or five in a row hits on any of the 105 games available(!). Looking forward to seeing you there (You'll get a bingo one day - have you heard my interviews with Vic yet? Saw your other thread ).

#8 38 days ago

Well, to get started, the machine will not work worth a dam
until you remember to plug back in the terminals you un-plug
when you take it apart!!!
Also, the bingo knows when the front door in open,found the contacts!
Fist of many questions; the locks up on the side boards of the head, what
do they unlock?
Second, is there an easy way to slide down the playfield glass once the foot rail
is removed?
That's all the questions for now. I wouldn't remember more than two answers anyway!!!
Terry K

#9 38 days ago

I always wanted a Bikini and had the pleasure of having one in my collection for many years. It was always at the Top of my list with Golden Gate/Silver Sails and a few other bingos. Glad to hear you got the game you wanted. Enjoy that great player!

Bikini full view 006 (resized).jpg

Bikini head full 010 (resized).jpg

Bikini playfield top arch 040 (resized).jpg

Bikini playfield full 041 (resized).jpg

Bingos lit up dark 044 (resized).jpg

Bingos Binkini no lites 140 (resized).jpg

#10 38 days ago
Quoted from Terry1:

Fist of many questions; the locks up on the side boards of the head, what
do they unlock?
Second, is there an easy way to slide down the playfield glass once the foot rail
is removed?

1) They allow you to remove the siderails of the head, allowing you to remove the backglass and fold down the back panel or replace lamps.
2) Yep, slides right out once the footrail is removed. Occasionally, you'll get a dirty machine that had a bunch of beer or soda spilled in. Just requires time and stubborness to remove. If you need a next step, just let me know what you've tried and I'll give you the next-least-bad step.

#11 38 days ago

the chic in the orange suit must have just gotten out of the water.

#12 38 days ago

for removing the glass, I often used a suction cup with handle device - harbor freight ones work. I mainly got them for the backglass - when you can see the ink is flaky, it's an easy way to pull the backglass as far forward in the channel as possible while sliding it out.

especially useful if you only have one side rail off because you picked the lock or broke the cage off the cage nut.

if you do what people usually do - thumb on side of head, fingers on glass - you are pressing the ink side of the backglass onto the edge of the head. That's where those horizontal scrapes in the ink came from.

the suction cup works on the playfield glass as long as it's reasonably clean on top.

in either case, tho, don't rely on the suction cup holding the full weight of the glass unless you use a double cup one (commonly used for windshields and glass installs). The cheapo plastic single cup ones will occasionally let go, especially if you didn't clean the glass too well.

if you don't have a suction cup, a strip of hard-to-tear tape works well. Clean glass, stick on tape with extra hanging off the edge to grab, and pull it. If the tape comes off the glass, use a longer piece.

#13 38 days ago
Quoted from baldtwit:

if you don't have a suction cup, a strip of hard-to-tear tape works well. Clean glass, stick on tape with extra hanging off the edge to grab, and pull it. If the tape comes off the glass, use a longer piece.

Vic showed me that trick on backglasses, works very well.

#14 38 days ago

Where is this "bikini" they speak of???

And from what I know, everyone loves a thread with real-time progress showing your work on it! (with lots of pics like you have been doing so far). This place is full of them. I always like reading those and am following this one. Looking forward to your work.

#15 37 days ago

Thank you for all the input!
Vic you have a beautiful machine. Once my bingo is EM sound
I will get to the cosmetics.
A few observations:
it appears that removing the backglass has to be done very carefully to
not compromise the paint. Is it easier to do this with both side rails removed?
i noticed an AC receptacle in the head. Looks original. Nice for soldering iron,
trouble light, defibrillator (just saying).
i also noticed a drip tray right under where the motor for the mixer and spotting unit
would be when the back door is closed. Is this original ?
I'm off to find suction cup(s) to do my glass work when the time comes.
TTFN
Terry K

#16 37 days ago
Quoted from Terry1:

it appears that removing the backglass has to be done very carefully to
not compromise the paint. Is it easier to do this with both side rails removed?

I always remove whichever is more convenient to pull the glass from, but also turn the opposite side 1 full turn or so to allow a little movement towards the front of the game (if possible).

Quoted from Terry1:

i noticed an AC receptacle in the head. Looks original. Nice for soldering iron,
trouble light, defibrillator (just saying).

It's nice to have an outlet right in the head. United (another bingo manufacturer) had a service outlet in the cab and in the head. They had a lot more components in the cab, though (typically).

Quoted from Terry1:

i also noticed a drip tray right under where the motor for the mixer and spotting unit
would be when the back door is closed. Is this original ?

I don't believe those are original. All the ones I've seen are hand-made. Two of my favorites had little sponges made out of some kind of hair that were turned into little mouse homes. How cute! *retches*. Those were fun games to clean up.

Quoted from Terry1:

I'm off to find suction cup(s) to do my glass work when the time comes.

If you have trouble getting the glass out of the playfield - I will put a light wax coating on the area where the glass slides, allowing to haze and wiping free. Slightly reduces friction. I also clean those areas. On bingos, especially the metal rail games, they are typically pretty nice - there's no plastic channel for the glass to wedge in. But it never hurts to reduce screeching noises.

#17 37 days ago

Thank you for the info "bingopodcast". I just tried the tape trick on my playfield glass, worked perfectly.
I used duck tape.
And away we go.
Terry K

#18 37 days ago

Stop the presses. Come to find out that my bingo really does not work.
Will have to do more investigation before I can ask a half intelligent question
Terry K
p.s. the tape trick also worked on my backglass!

#19 37 days ago

Let the troubles begin!
Before I begin, this is what the bingo is doing!
The control unit(CU) motor is running all the time, but, on occasion, will not run at all.
When it is running(CU) the first two metal discs(for lack of a better name) are activating the
contacts ,but, sound like there is or maybe some metal to metal contact!
I am sending pictures but I don't know how to integrate them into my post!
I am sending pictures of the CU, metal filings can be seen below the CU discs.
First I see that there are two sets of contacts associated with the front door;
one NC and one NO. Right now it makes no difference if they are engaged or not.
There is a wire broke off inside by the the front door. I can tell by it's length that it must go to
one of the contacts having to do with the balls.
I will send some pics.
Terry K

Bikini T7 (resized).JPG

Bikini 11 T1 (resized).JPG

Bikini 6 T2 (resized).JPG

Bikini T (resized).JPG

Bikini 5 (resized).JPG

Bikini T7 (resized).JPG

#20 37 days ago

You should be able to (by hand) rotate the fan blade on the CU motor and cause the CU shaft to rotate. If you can't, I'd troubleshoot what's binding up before powering the game on, otherwise you may burn out the CU motor.

#21 37 days ago

In the CU, the fan blade turns, the shaft turns.
The mixer and spotting unit motor turn.
The very end of the CU assembly has a disc with a slot in it.
There is a relay/coil holding the disc from turning.
If I manually activate the relay/coil the CU seems to work until
the disc gets locked up at it's slot.
See pictures.
Thanks for the help.

Bikini CU 1 (resized).JPG

Bikini CU 2 (resized).JPG

#22 37 days ago

Terry - do these things in this order first before attempting to troubleshoot much further:

Turn off machine

1) Ensure that there are 8 balls in the machine.
2) Put credits on the machine
3) Turn on machine. Credits should zero and CU should run until credits zero.
4) Flick the coin switch or put a coin in. Does the game attempt to start? Your motors should be dormant until the timer unit and anti-cheat relay and various trip relays are in the reset position (namely the tilt trip).
5) What does the backglass say? If Tilt is displayed, is the tilt bob resting against the metal ring?

Answer those and then come back for more.

Metal on metal is correct - the drag arms ride on metal cams. However it should not be making a screeching noise, rather a clicking noise.

#23 37 days ago

Thanks BPC for the input.
How do you put credits on the machine?
The tilt has been disconnected.
Since I am not familiar with all the sounds(yet), I believe the sound you are
saying on the cams is what I am hearing.
Should I be concerned about the disconnected wire by the ball mech?
Also, is the lack of any effect on the machine with the front door contacts out of position,
any thing to be concerned about?
Terry K

#24 37 days ago

the tilt light comes on when either the anti-cheat relay is unpowered (game first turned on or a 50V issue) or when the tilt trip relay is tripped. If that's an issue, try and see which is causing the light to come on.

Quoted from Terry1:

Should I be concerned about the disconnected wire by the ball mech?

nope. There's "extra" wires around the coin trough that aren't on your schematic. They usually go to switches that may not be documented in the manual - like one on the replay reset relay.

they are for meters that operators could install in the machine to keep track of things like the number of replays reset off the machine at power-on. Very handy for accounting if you happen to be paying out cash for the credits.

I added a new how-to section to the bingo.cdyn.com web site. The idea is less words, more pictures, so if you do something like manually adding credits, accessing the card number lights, raising the playfield, etc. and take pictures or a short video of doing it, I'm happy to swipe them and post it there also.

I predict BPC will answer in a way that makes sense shortly.

#25 37 days ago

Credits can be put on the machine by pressing the plunger attached to the replay register. There are two coils - looking at the back of the register, the one on the left subtracts credits, and the one on the right adds them.

Press the plunger in and you should see a credit added.

Disconnected wire: not yet, but probably an issue. Let's see what the game does with the above and that'll tell me more.

Front door: there are two contacts - one for preventing the meters from stepping, and one for lighting the coin box area with a single bulb. Nothing to worry about there.

#26 37 days ago

@baldtwit you're too fast for me!

#27 37 days ago

Thanks guys.
I will try the above tomorrow.
Terry K

#28 36 days ago

Here we go.
I put credits(games) on the machine before power up.
When the power is turned on the bingo resets credits to zero.
When I flick the coin micro sw the game looks good in front.
No ball appears.
As I add games the odds are changing, as I would expect.
The CU motor continues to run. I noticed that only the first two, of the
three metal discs(for lack of a better term), turn.
Also the coil/relay holding the fiber disc(at the end of the CU) from turning, never engages!
The mixer and spotting unit motor runs.
As a side note;
when i first assembled the game and turned it on(the game still had the balls still in the holes).
the balls dropped and I played a game. When I was done, the machine never worked again.
Terry K

#29 36 days ago
Quoted from Terry1:

Also the coil/relay holding the fiber disc(at the end of the CU) from turning, never engages!

OK, this is all good info. This above ^^^ is not a problem. That disc only turns when searching for a winner.

I suspect that the loose wire is tied to one of the trough switches or one of the lifter switches. But not sure. The mirror photo appeared all there... The meters are there (or not) and there can be loose wires from the meters, but I have a suspicion that something's amiss there.

The trough switches and shutter motor are tied back into the 'logic' portion in the head via the cabinet Jones Plugs. If those are not clean and shiny, there may be an issue. @baldtwit has a nice writeup of using a dremel or green scotch-brite to scrub those. You may wish to try that if they need a little cleaning.

If not, then it's time to look around the trough a bit more carefully. Perhaps some photos under the trough would be helpful.

Alternatively, and you'll run into this occasionally: if 8 1 1/16" pinballs were used (the standard size ball) instead of the larger 1 1/8" ball used in bingos, the game will never (or rarely) see the 8th trough switch closed, and will not lift the first ball.

The odds changing is a good sign. The credits zeroing is a good sign. The fact that the machine comes to life when coins applied is a good sign - sounds like you're almost back to where you were.

#30 36 days ago

A close look at the two, total plays and replays, registers, I see a wire off the
total plays register.
The loose wire mentioned earlier is NOT the wire off the register.
By the length of the loose wire it appears to be from around the, slopped, ball mechanism.
Terry

#31 36 days ago

Just saw the thread. Always great to celebrate getting a pin! There's a project. Enjoy!

I just got another pin as well and it's a great feeling.

#32 36 days ago

Next step would be to clean the Jones plugs - once that is done to satisfaction, drop or remove the balls and lift the playfield by loosening the four playfield surround screws, then lift CAREFULLY up until almost vertical. Then the bottom can slide forward and the top can lean against the head.

I say carefully as there is a cage at the back of the playfield containing a motor and many switches which are crucial for the logic of the game and you can quite easily mangle them if you lift the playfield like a barbell.

Once the playfield is lifted, remove the metal cover (two screws) on the ball lifter, then take some photos. Let's see the full trough and what's in there, position of lifter, solder tabs of lifter wires, etc.

Remember on the female portion of the jones plugs to scrub carefully. The tabs like to break if you are too rough when scrubbing.

#33 36 days ago

Look what I found. A ball not getting back to the others.
I also noticed a set of contacts that I imagine tells the bingo that all of the balls have returned!
I may be getting some where!!!
Terry K

Bally balls 1 (resized).JPG

Bally ball 2 (resized).JPG

Bally balls 3 (resized).JPG

#34 36 days ago
Quoted from Terry1:

A close look at the two, total plays and replays, registers, I see a wire off the
total plays register.
The loose wire mentioned earlier is NOT the wire off the register.
By the length of the loose wire it appears to be from around the, slopped, ball mechanism.

there's more wires than just the three you'd need for the standard meters (total plays, total replays and a wire 70 for power shared by the two meters).

At least one more wire for a coin out meter (credits reset off the machine at power on) - often a 53-x wire - and there may be another one I'm forgetting.

if you want to know for sure, unplug the cabinet plugs, stick a ohmmeter on the loose wire and probe the plug pins to see which one it's connected to, then look at the plug chart in the manual to get the wire id.

Quoted from bingopodcast:

Remember on the female portion of the jones plugs to scrub carefully. The tabs like to break if you are too rough when scrubbing.

how did ya get in there? I never bothered to try and clean the sockets. Instead, I squeeze pretty hard along the length of the sockets between thumb and index finger. The idea is to bend in the socket outer tabs a little so the plug requires some oomph to push in....then friction will take any crud off the socket tab.

I did have a bikini that a bunch of tabs snapped off due to some odd corrosion (maybe salt-related)... but if that happens, the connection isn't reliable anyway.

#35 36 days ago
Quoted from baldtwit:

how did ya get in there?

Carefully. Ha! Honestly, I scrub the top of the plugs until they are nice and shiny then squeeze. That's important info that I neglected to mention...

#36 36 days ago

I took a few pics under the play field. There are 5 sets of contacts associated with
the balls sitting in there tray. I assume that is to tell the bingo how many balls are
in play. I seams to me that the bingo may require all 8 balls in place to allow a
game to begin, maybe my original problem.
Also, I see a set of contacts near the ball board mechanism that seem to be mangled.
See pics.
The ball board guide rails are loose, so I am going to tighten them up before I put it
back.
I guess my last question of the day is, will that last ball not getting back to the ball
tray prevent a game from beginning???
Terry K

Mangeled 1 (resized).JPG

ball contacts (resized).JPG

#37 36 days ago

One ball missing will prevent the game from starting. That is expected behavior.

The mangled contacts are actually supposed to be pressed by that black metal bracket. It looks weird, but it tells the game that the shutter is open. From the angle of the pic, I can't tell if it's good or not. Looks ok, but the fish paper insulation might be getting bent which may or may not be a problem. Again, can't really tell from the angle. Might be fine.

You can adjust the angle of the game to allow for the ball to avoid the hangup, and cleaning that catcher board can sometimes help. Sometimes you just can't clean it enough by hand, and in those cases, I'll lightly sand it. Check your left to right angle as well. As designed, it is supposed to divert the balls to the left hand side and dump into the trough.

#38 36 days ago

fish paper - another glossary entry.

it's normal for the fish paper to get wavy or curved. As long as it is doing it's job to keep metal parts from touching that shouldn't, you're good.

note you are supposed to level the bottom of the cabinet with the floor. The playfield and ball board slopes are built into the piece and/or the way it's mounted in the cabinet.

the black bar pushing the panel switches has a tendancy to loosen, so make sure those two nuts are snug. You can also peek at the switches with the shutter open and closed and make sure they look right.

I keep stealing your pictures and/or pieces of them ... thanks !

#39 35 days ago

Thank you "baldtwit". What I found interesting was that this particular
set of contacts seem to be rusted. No other area of the machine is like that.
I will try the contacts and see if things are OK.
BTW, would a particular machine have one key to all the locks?
That single wire that I see seems to have been connected at one time.
It has the "look" of broke off. Also I noticed that the bundle that this wire is in
has this wire taken out in a different way than the wires to the ball contacts.
See the picture, I rolled up the loose wire to make it more obvious.
Terry K
p.s. take all the pics you like

The wire (resized).JPG

#40 35 days ago

Speaking of pictures. If any one would like me to take a picture of any thing while my machine
is in this state of disassembly, let me know. See the picture. Also notice the beer frig EH !
Terry K

The Machine (resized).JPG

#41 35 days ago

I've never worked on a machine that was completely keyed the same.

I agree about that wire having been connected somewhere in the past... But not sure where yet.

The ball lifter is the thing all the way to the right. It has a metal cover that covers two switch stacks. Remove that and examine the switches underneath.

#42 35 days ago

Love the restoration thread progress.

Also love the theme myself. One of the few I might actually consider owning in that era. Have fun!

#43 35 days ago

Here is a better look at the set of rusted contacts. They seem to be in the
energized position + the board is in the position to allow the balls to drop;
notice the top leaf is bowed out. I, to some degree, straightened it out with
my dental probe!
Being in the energized position it's hard to tell if all the contacts will disengage
properly.
Terry K

ol rusty 1 (resized).JPG

ol rusty 2 (resized).JPG

#44 35 days ago

Ha! Ol' Rusty.

So, with the shutter in that position, all your switches are moved the appropriate way (which is good). To test the opposite way, look to your left and you will see the shutter motor and 4 or 5 cams. Rotate one of the cams toward you (clockwise) and the shutter should close. The shutter only moves one way and I am reasonably certain clockwise is right. However, if you experience a LOT of resistance, stop. And try the other way.

It will eventually drop one of the bigger switches into the dwell in the first cam, latching the shutter in the open position. From there you can take photos of those switches and compare.

That bent thing is an insulator. It prevents electricity from conducting through the metal piece that pushes the switches. If it is bent up, electricity can move, which can cause problems (maybe).

Check it and see if you can straighten while the shutter is open, then you should be fine with those contacts.

Once the game is level, try it again and report back. You want the playfield down to test. The game will happily lift five balls and dump them down by the power switch with the playfield lifted. There is a switch on the playfield in front of the shooter rod that tells the game to stop lifting, and obviously that can't get hit if the playfield is up!

#45 35 days ago

Here are two pics of ol rusty in the de-energized position.
Things seem to be proper.
Terry K

ol rusty 3 (resized).JPG

ol rusty 4 (resized).JPG

#46 35 days ago

Looks good, albeit a bit dirty. :-). That insulator (fish paper) up top is probably just fine. If you can give it a little straightening (reverse the fold near the end) that should help.

Did you tighten the nuts as @baldtwit suggested? If the metal bracket moves, it can cause some weird behavior.

Thinking about that stray wire. Not sure where it goes. It's in the wrong bundle for the lifter stacks, and all your trough wiring appeared to be there. It may not be necessary at all. It is probably for a third meter and not really a problem. Tucking it in that bundle is ok (for now).

Once all 8 balls reliably fall into the trough, your first ball should lift effortlessly. Sometimes another problem can prevent subsequent balls, and other times all balls lift, but scoring and extra balls fail. Let's review once you have that catcher board cleaned off and the game releveled.

#47 35 days ago

Guess what!
All I need now is how to change the bulbs for the bingo card!
Terry K

#48 35 days ago

Awesome. The card is a little advanced and there's some gotchas. IIRC, bingo.cdyn.com has some words about changing lamps. Let me attempt to describe it and use whatever works.

1) open back door
2) there are two metal clips that are spring loaded on the top and bottom of the screen unit.
3) you can move the screen one section at a time by pressing the coil mounted underneath then carefully pulling a section.
4) there are two little tabs in each section - the idea is you pull them out. You can pull out the needed sections (4 or 5) without moving other units if you are careful.
5) go to the front of the machine
6) the card has metal clips that hold it in place. Each is secured with a Phillips screw. Carefully loosen and flip aside or remove.
7) Slide the plastic card front out. Be careful as it can scratch easily and you will be bothered for the rest of your life.
use a piece of rubber hose or a little dowel with a slightly sliced open shooter rod tip to grab the bulbs. Your fingers will thank you. Remember to push in and turn counter clockwise to remove the bulbs.
9) replace with 1464s. Expensive bulbs. But you cannot use many other types (like 44/47/55) as the sockets are wired to 17V instead of 6V.

Before you do that.... Sometimes the bulbs appear burned out because the Jones plugs are not clean.

These are the plugs from the playfield.

You can test this (in some cases) by getting a winner lined up with the burned out bulb and test. If it doesn't score, you've got dirty plugs (probably). Otherwise, dead bulbs.

Excellent work!

#49 34 days ago

Thanks for all the help guys. Could not have done it with out you!!!
Is there any particular type of wax used on the play field?
Terry K

#50 34 days ago

Any car wax with cleaner in it or Novus #2 from PBR.
http://www.pbresource.com/cleaner.html

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