Congrats! And with that machine and the right decorations, t-stat at 75 degrees, a drink in your hand and some appropriate music it'll be much cheaper than a trip to the beach.

Congrats! Always time to fix poor painting later. For now get that 2 in the blue!

Awful joke opportunity nobody will get here

Cool game. Love the artwork. No room for bingo but looking forward to playing again at the York Show. (I hope you're continuing to make the trip, bingopodcast!)

Please do - I'm not a moderator, but that's always a fun read.

If you need any help, first you may wish to do some reading at http://bingo.cdyn.com - you can pull manuals and schematics for your game, as well as score/instruction cards, etc. An invaluable resource!

I also host a show that has some general and specific troubleshooting and cleaning information (along with interviews and more) at http://foramusementonly.libsyn.com if you are an audio kinda guy. General EM, pure mechanical and bingo pinball info there.

I, and the Multi, will return this year! I'm not sure how many additional games I will be bringing, but you're gonna have to get some good four or five in a row hits on any of the 105 games available(!). Looking forward to seeing you there (You'll get a bingo one day - have you heard my interviews with Vic yet? Saw your other thread ).

I always wanted a Bikini and had the pleasure of having one in my collection for many years. It was always at the Top of my list with Golden Gate/Silver Sails and a few other bingos. Glad to hear you got the game you wanted. Enjoy that great player!

Bikini full view 006 (resized).jpg

Bikini head full 010 (resized).jpg

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Bingos Binkini no lites 140 (resized).jpg

1) They allow you to remove the siderails of the head, allowing you to remove the backglass and fold down the back panel or replace lamps.
2) Yep, slides right out once the footrail is removed. Occasionally, you'll get a dirty machine that had a bunch of beer or soda spilled in. Just requires time and stubborness to remove. If you need a next step, just let me know what you've tried and I'll give you the next-least-bad step.

the chic in the orange suit must have just gotten out of the water.

for removing the glass, I often used a suction cup with handle device - harbor freight ones work. I mainly got them for the backglass - when you can see the ink is flaky, it's an easy way to pull the backglass as far forward in the channel as possible while sliding it out.

especially useful if you only have one side rail off because you picked the lock or broke the cage off the cage nut.

if you do what people usually do - thumb on side of head, fingers on glass - you are pressing the ink side of the backglass onto the edge of the head. That's where those horizontal scrapes in the ink came from.

the suction cup works on the playfield glass as long as it's reasonably clean on top.

in either case, tho, don't rely on the suction cup holding the full weight of the glass unless you use a double cup one (commonly used for windshields and glass installs). The cheapo plastic single cup ones will occasionally let go, especially if you didn't clean the glass too well.

if you don't have a suction cup, a strip of hard-to-tear tape works well. Clean glass, stick on tape with extra hanging off the edge to grab, and pull it. If the tape comes off the glass, use a longer piece.

Vic showed me that trick on backglasses, works very well.

Where is this "bikini" they speak of???

And from what I know, everyone loves a thread with real-time progress showing your work on it! (with lots of pics like you have been doing so far). This place is full of them. I always like reading those and am following this one. Looking forward to your work.

I always remove whichever is more convenient to pull the glass from, but also turn the opposite side 1 full turn or so to allow a little movement towards the front of the game (if possible).

It's nice to have an outlet right in the head. United (another bingo manufacturer) had a service outlet in the cab and in the head. They had a lot more components in the cab, though (typically).

I don't believe those are original. All the ones I've seen are hand-made. Two of my favorites had little sponges made out of some kind of hair that were turned into little mouse homes. How cute! *retches*. Those were fun games to clean up.

If you have trouble getting the glass out of the playfield - I will put a light wax coating on the area where the glass slides, allowing to haze and wiping free. Slightly reduces friction. I also clean those areas. On bingos, especially the metal rail games, they are typically pretty nice - there's no plastic channel for the glass to wedge in. But it never hurts to reduce screeching noises.

You should be able to (by hand) rotate the fan blade on the CU motor and cause the CU shaft to rotate. If you can't, I'd troubleshoot what's binding up before powering the game on, otherwise you may burn out the CU motor.

Terry - do these things in this order first before attempting to troubleshoot much further:

Turn off machine

1) Ensure that there are 8 balls in the machine.
2) Put credits on the machine
3) Turn on machine. Credits should zero and CU should run until credits zero.
4) Flick the coin switch or put a coin in. Does the game attempt to start? Your motors should be dormant until the timer unit and anti-cheat relay and various trip relays are in the reset position (namely the tilt trip).
5) What does the backglass say? If Tilt is displayed, is the tilt bob resting against the metal ring?

Answer those and then come back for more.

Metal on metal is correct - the drag arms ride on metal cams. However it should not be making a screeching noise, rather a clicking noise.

the tilt light comes on when either the anti-cheat relay is unpowered (game first turned on or a 50V issue) or when the tilt trip relay is tripped. If that's an issue, try and see which is causing the light to come on.

nope. There's "extra" wires around the coin trough that aren't on your schematic. They usually go to switches that may not be documented in the manual - like one on the replay reset relay.

they are for meters that operators could install in the machine to keep track of things like the number of replays reset off the machine at power-on. Very handy for accounting if you happen to be paying out cash for the credits.

I added a new how-to section to the bingo.cdyn.com web site. The idea is less words, more pictures, so if you do something like manually adding credits, accessing the card number lights, raising the playfield, etc. and take pictures or a short video of doing it, I'm happy to swipe them and post it there also.

I predict BPC will answer in a way that makes sense shortly.

Credits can be put on the machine by pressing the plunger attached to the replay register. There are two coils - looking at the back of the register, the one on the left subtracts credits, and the one on the right adds them.

Press the plunger in and you should see a credit added.

Disconnected wire: not yet, but probably an issue. Let's see what the game does with the above and that'll tell me more.

Front door: there are two contacts - one for preventing the meters from stepping, and one for lighting the coin box area with a single bulb. Nothing to worry about there.

baldtwit you're too fast for me!

OK, this is all good info. This above ^^^ is not a problem. That disc only turns when searching for a winner.

I suspect that the loose wire is tied to one of the trough switches or one of the lifter switches. But not sure. The mirror photo appeared all there... The meters are there (or not) and there can be loose wires from the meters, but I have a suspicion that something's amiss there.

The trough switches and shutter motor are tied back into the 'logic' portion in the head via the cabinet Jones Plugs. If those are not clean and shiny, there may be an issue. baldtwit has a nice writeup of using a dremel or green scotch-brite to scrub those. You may wish to try that if they need a little cleaning.

If not, then it's time to look around the trough a bit more carefully. Perhaps some photos under the trough would be helpful.

Alternatively, and you'll run into this occasionally: if 8 1 1/16" pinballs were used (the standard size ball) instead of the larger 1 1/8" ball used in bingos, the game will never (or rarely) see the 8th trough switch closed, and will not lift the first ball.

The odds changing is a good sign. The credits zeroing is a good sign. The fact that the machine comes to life when coins applied is a good sign - sounds like you're almost back to where you were.

Just saw the thread. Always great to celebrate getting a pin! There's a project. Enjoy!

I just got another pin as well and it's a great feeling.

Next step would be to clean the Jones plugs - once that is done to satisfaction, drop or remove the balls and lift the playfield by loosening the four playfield surround screws, then lift CAREFULLY up until almost vertical. Then the bottom can slide forward and the top can lean against the head.

I say carefully as there is a cage at the back of the playfield containing a motor and many switches which are crucial for the logic of the game and you can quite easily mangle them if you lift the playfield like a barbell.

Once the playfield is lifted, remove the metal cover (two screws) on the ball lifter, then take some photos. Let's see the full trough and what's in there, position of lifter, solder tabs of lifter wires, etc.

Remember on the female portion of the jones plugs to scrub carefully. The tabs like to break if you are too rough when scrubbing.

there's more wires than just the three you'd need for the standard meters (total plays, total replays and a wire 70 for power shared by the two meters).

At least one more wire for a coin out meter (credits reset off the machine at power on) - often a 53-x wire - and there may be another one I'm forgetting.

if you want to know for sure, unplug the cabinet plugs, stick a ohmmeter on the loose wire and probe the plug pins to see which one it's connected to, then look at the plug chart in the manual to get the wire id.

how did ya get in there? I never bothered to try and clean the sockets. Instead, I squeeze pretty hard along the length of the sockets between thumb and index finger. The idea is to bend in the socket outer tabs a little so the plug requires some oomph to push in....then friction will take any crud off the socket tab.

I did have a bikini that a bunch of tabs snapped off due to some odd corrosion (maybe salt-related)... but if that happens, the connection isn't reliable anyway.

Carefully. Ha! Honestly, I scrub the top of the plugs until they are nice and shiny then squeeze. That's important info that I neglected to mention...

One ball missing will prevent the game from starting. That is expected behavior.

The mangled contacts are actually supposed to be pressed by that black metal bracket. It looks weird, but it tells the game that the shutter is open. From the angle of the pic, I can't tell if it's good or not. Looks ok, but the fish paper insulation might be getting bent which may or may not be a problem. Again, can't really tell from the angle. Might be fine.

You can adjust the angle of the game to allow for the ball to avoid the hangup, and cleaning that catcher board can sometimes help. Sometimes you just can't clean it enough by hand, and in those cases, I'll lightly sand it. Check your left to right angle as well. As designed, it is supposed to divert the balls to the left hand side and dump into the trough.

fish paper - another glossary entry.

it's normal for the fish paper to get wavy or curved. As long as it is doing it's job to keep metal parts from touching that shouldn't, you're good.

note you are supposed to level the bottom of the cabinet with the floor. The playfield and ball board slopes are built into the piece and/or the way it's mounted in the cabinet.

the black bar pushing the panel switches has a tendancy to loosen, so make sure those two nuts are snug. You can also peek at the switches with the shutter open and closed and make sure they look right.

I keep stealing your pictures and/or pieces of them ... thanks !

I've never worked on a machine that was completely keyed the same.

I agree about that wire having been connected somewhere in the past... But not sure where yet.

The ball lifter is the thing all the way to the right. It has a metal cover that covers two switch stacks. Remove that and examine the switches underneath.

Love the restoration thread progress.

Also love the theme myself. One of the few I might actually consider owning in that era. Have fun!

Ha! Ol' Rusty.

So, with the shutter in that position, all your switches are moved the appropriate way (which is good). To test the opposite way, look to your left and you will see the shutter motor and 4 or 5 cams. Rotate one of the cams toward you (clockwise) and the shutter should close. The shutter only moves one way and I am reasonably certain clockwise is right. However, if you experience a LOT of resistance, stop. And try the other way.

It will eventually drop one of the bigger switches into the dwell in the first cam, latching the shutter in the open position. From there you can take photos of those switches and compare.

That bent thing is an insulator. It prevents electricity from conducting through the metal piece that pushes the switches. If it is bent up, electricity can move, which can cause problems (maybe).

Check it and see if you can straighten while the shutter is open, then you should be fine with those contacts.

Once the game is level, try it again and report back. You want the playfield down to test. The game will happily lift five balls and dump them down by the power switch with the playfield lifted. There is a switch on the playfield in front of the shooter rod that tells the game to stop lifting, and obviously that can't get hit if the playfield is up!

Looks good, albeit a bit dirty. . That insulator (fish paper) up top is probably just fine. If you can give it a little straightening (reverse the fold near the end) that should help.

Did you tighten the nuts as baldtwit suggested? If the metal bracket moves, it can cause some weird behavior.

Thinking about that stray wire. Not sure where it goes. It's in the wrong bundle for the lifter stacks, and all your trough wiring appeared to be there. It may not be necessary at all. It is probably for a third meter and not really a problem. Tucking it in that bundle is ok (for now).

Once all 8 balls reliably fall into the trough, your first ball should lift effortlessly. Sometimes another problem can prevent subsequent balls, and other times all balls lift, but scoring and extra balls fail. Let's review once you have that catcher board cleaned off and the game releveled.

Awesome. The card is a little advanced and there's some gotchas. IIRC, bingo.cdyn.com has some words about changing lamps. Let me attempt to describe it and use whatever works.

1) open back door
2) there are two metal clips that are spring loaded on the top and bottom of the screen unit.
3) you can move the screen one section at a time by pressing the coil mounted underneath then carefully pulling a section.
4) there are two little tabs in each section - the idea is you pull them out. You can pull out the needed sections (4 or 5) without moving other units if you are careful.
5) go to the front of the machine
6) the card has metal clips that hold it in place. Each is secured with a Phillips screw. Carefully loosen and flip aside or remove.
7) Slide the plastic card front out. Be careful as it can scratch easily and you will be bothered for the rest of your life.
8) use a piece of rubber hose or a little dowel with a slightly sliced open shooter rod tip to grab the bulbs. Your fingers will thank you. Remember to push in and turn counter clockwise to remove the bulbs.
9) replace with 1464s. Expensive bulbs. But you cannot use many other types (like 44/47/55) as the sockets are wired to 17V instead of 6V.

Before you do that.... Sometimes the bulbs appear burned out because the Jones plugs are not clean.

These are the plugs from the playfield.

You can test this (in some cases) by getting a winner lined up with the burned out bulb and test. If it doesn't score, you've got dirty plugs (probably). Otherwise, dead bulbs.

Excellent work!

Any car wax with cleaner in it or Novus #2 from PBR.
http://www.pbresource.com/cleaner.html