(Topic ID: 248218)

Welcome To The Jurassic Park Prem/LE Club!!

By Royale-W-Cheese

4 years ago


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Topic Stats

  • 9,218 posts
  • 803 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 days ago by scootss
  • Topic is favorited by 439 Pinsiders

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Topic poll

“What is the first MOD you will buy??”

  • Toppers 59 votes
    46%
  • New Jeep 51 votes
    40%
  • Plastic Characters 18 votes
    14%

(128 votes)

This poll has been closed.

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Topic index (key posts)

18 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #885 TECH: PLAYFIELD. T-Rex alignment bulletin from Stern. Posted by pickleric (4 years ago)

Post #1396 TECH: PLAYFIELD. Shooter fix Posted by Chambahz (4 years ago)

Post #1619 read before dismantling the raptor Posted by timlah79 (4 years ago)

Post #1830 TECH: PLAYFIELD. T-Rex adjustment info according to Keith Elwin Posted by sk8ball (4 years ago)

Post #2358 TREX Adjustment info Posted by imagamejunky (4 years ago)

Post #2625 TECH: PLAYFIELD. Raptor pit detailed adjustment instructions. Posted by yancy (4 years ago)

Post #2994 TECH: PLAYFIELD. T-Rex head removal tips and Jaw screw fix. Posted by f3honda4me (4 years ago)

Post #3326 Amber Bonus rules and details Posted by fooflighter (4 years ago)

Post #3417 TECH: SWITCHES. Opto sensor not registering on orbit fix Posted by caker137 (4 years ago)


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#3026 4 years ago
Quoted from Rydhia:

Messing around with some flipper cap ideas. I think I’m going to replace small trees with a few larger palm leaves for better details.
What do you all think about the colors?[quoted image]

Orange flipper rubbers and sling rubbers look great. Let's see the rest of the playfield rubbers! Figuring out what colors I should go with myself.

#3029 4 years ago
Quoted from Rydhia:

I can’t take credit for the idea. Saw someone else early on in this thread that had done it. Thought it looked good so I did the same.
Here’s my playfield anyhow so you don’t have to dig for it.[quoted image]

Very nice! I'm probably going to go for all orange as well. She's perty!

#3236 4 years ago

With the screen freezing and sound issues, is it a good idea to wait for the next code update?

#3238 4 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

Are there issues? Sorry haven't been checking. Wide spread?

Seems as if some have been reporting the game freezing during certain points of the game and the volume being inconsistent. Just wondering whether the new features are worth these inconveniences. Just going to set my machine up today and I'm almost sure it has the last code version. Received it Wednesday.

#3262 4 years ago
Quoted from GamerRick:

The volume is an easy fix. Somehow the update is changing the speaker settings in utilities like it’s never done before. All you need to do is go into utilities volume and select reset. That worked perfect for me and doesn’t erase any of your other settings.

Since I haven't even turned it on yet, I will just input the settings after I update the code. Thank you.

#3267 4 years ago

I know this is dumb, but out of an abundance of caution, remove the rubber band on the jeep, correct? It was just for shipping? Thank you in advance.

#3270 4 years ago

Thank you! Playing the maiden game now with my 6-year-old twins!

#3274 4 years ago

This is my first Spike game. I assume I can still attach an external sub to the cabinet sub with alligator clips?

#3276 4 years ago
Quoted from kermit24:

Sure. High-level inputs to the sub are not going to be as clean as line level, but it will "work". Pinovators sells a board that gives clean line level output from the backbox.

Thank you.

1 week later
#3524 4 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

so I've had many people request videos of my custom audio so I decided to take these two. They show off many, not all of the lines and should give a good idea of what's included. I didn't want to replace everything as some of the lines aren't bad and blend well with gameplay but I needed the classics and they're in there.
Shoot her, They must all be destroyed, Freeze!, Hold on to your butts, welcome to JP, and many others (including more nerdy ones) are in. btw - life finds a way is in too (extra ball) but not on video. Both videos show off the different audio for some of the same shots (raptor cage, ball save, etc). 4K!!

Code link
https://mega.nz/#!wocEzSBZ!mcNwd_1yhYCFbV9pYgAul8akKQgqs0ZUcpqJvkrtk

Very cool! Do you just download and install the same way you do the Stern code?

#3525 4 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

so I've had many people request videos of my custom audio so I decided to take these two. They show off many, not all of the lines and should give a good idea of what's included. I didn't want to replace everything as some of the lines aren't bad and blend well with gameplay but I needed the classics and they're in there.
Shoot her, They must all be destroyed, Freeze!, Hold on to your butts, welcome to JP, and many others (including more nerdy ones) are in. btw - life finds a way is in too (extra ball) but not on video. Both videos show off the different audio for some of the same shots (raptor cage, ball save, etc). 4K!!

Code link
https://mega.nz/#!wocEzSBZ!mcNwd_1yhYCFbV9pYgAul8akKQgqs0ZUcpqJvkrtk

Thank you for your efforts!

#3526 4 years ago

I'm not sure where everyone is reporting bugs, but I think there's one where you get that Pet... Attack mode going on the right ramp and then lock a Control Room ball, and the timer on the Attack mode continues to run. It timed me out of the mode while in the Control Room's

This game keeps getting better and better! I've also learned that I'm not as good at pinball as I thought I was. You really have to earn it with the tight shots.

I've still yet to see a wizard mode and I'm on 5 ball! My best yet was just now (in terms of progress, but not score). I was one away from the Visitor Center, which I believe is a wizard mode?

I can't stop pressing start!

2 weeks later
#3800 4 years ago

I'm having the opto issues on the T-Rex ramp and want to do the shim fix (fast shots skipping over), but still don't have a picture in my mind of how it should look. Anyone have a photo or 2 of how it should look? Thank you.

#3802 4 years ago

Thanks. I took it apart already like this, but didn't have washers that fit. Wanted to try the cardboard shim fix. Is it the same idea? Put the cardboard where the washers should go? I was under the impression that the cardboard shim fix could be done from the top side of the playfield.

#3807 4 years ago
Quoted from yancy:

Shim fix won't work on the t-rex opto. It's mounted from above, so any shim would push it even further down. Remove the two black spacers on top of the posts guarding the ramp entrance. That will lower the clear plastic roof over the ramp entrance and force the ball down into the beam.
Someone else blocked the bottom half of the beam with black electrical tape, but removing the spacers worked for me. Breaks the beam 100% now.
I still can't believe games went out the door like that.

I'm going to try this right now. I purchased the #4 washers to try as well. I'll try this next if your suggestion doesn't work.

I'm not sure where the exit opto is; I'm just trying to get the T-Rex to catch the hard shots.

Thank you to everyone for all your suggestions.

This game is awesome!

#3809 4 years ago
Quoted from Jahkub:

The exit opto is mounted to the rear most part of the T-Rex ramp, (behind the backboard) it's mounted to the plastic so a machined mount isn't much of an option. You can see if it's parallel to the side of the ramp by pulling the pf to the end of the service rails and lifting on the rear handle. Mine wasn't as exaggerated as the diagram but it was obviously not parallel.

Got it. Thanks. Going to try the removal of spacers for the T-Rex fix now.

#3810 4 years ago
Quoted from yancy:

Shim fix won't work on the t-rex opto. It's mounted from above, so any shim would push it even further down. Remove the two black spacers on top of the posts guarding the ramp entrance. That will lower the clear plastic roof over the ramp entrance and force the ball down into the beam.
Someone else blocked the bottom half of the beam with black electrical tape, but removing the spacers worked for me. Breaks the beam 100% now.
I still can't believe games went out the door like that.

I don't believe mine has the spacers on top of the ramp entrance. I think I read the newer builds - which I have - don't have those? Anyway, it's not obvious to me as to how to raise the beam since it's top-mounted, so, for now anyway, I did the cheap NYE fix with tape on the right opto. I kept adjusting the tape using the diagnostic test until it seemed right. All shots now seem to be registering. Thanks, everyone.

0FE2A99E-1462-4F9D-81FE-0CF546B1D6E8 (resized).jpeg0FE2A99E-1462-4F9D-81FE-0CF546B1D6E8 (resized).jpeg
#3922 4 years ago
Quoted from Freakyguy666:

Just out of curiosity, if the trex were properly centered with the spacers removed from the ramp entrance cover, and ~1/4 of good shots still bounce off the Trex, would this imply flipper strength may need to be reduced? I’ve reduced mine to 235 for the right flipper and not sure if going lower would negatively affect other shots.

Is it the hard shots bouncing off? That's what it was for me. The ball was likely skipping too high entering the ramp. I used the opto test to make sure the ball could trigger the opto even if it wasn't sitting on the ramp. This meant placing some tape over the lower part of the right opto hole. I didn't know how else to raise the opto considering how it's mounted. Not elegant, but effective.

#3933 4 years ago
Quoted from Freakyguy666:

In the earlier post, they 2 posters indicated that they placed the tape over the bottom half of the Left opto hole. I guess it doesn’t matter which side??

Probably doesn't matter, but you'll be able to see if it works by using the opto test.

#4084 4 years ago

Anyone having an issue with some kind of warning when trying to download the newest code? I don't know if the issue is on my end or not. Should I ignore the warning and just download?

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#4097 4 years ago
Quoted from crwjumper:

Click "Advanced". It'll let you proceed from there.

Cool. Thanks. Never saw that warning prior to now.

1 month later
#4539 4 years ago
Quoted from Chambahz:

If anyone is having any trouble with either plunger (manual or autolauncher) not completing the horseshoe ramp, there's a simple fix.
You need to raise the left fork of the ramp slightly, forcing the ball to the right side of the lane.
We did this today at my buddy's place and had 100% accuracy thereafter, and I've just done the same for mine.
(Mine was near perfect but occasionally, the ball would dribble back down the ramp and hit the top of the right sling.)
We just undid both screws, lifted the fork slightly, then placed a small nut under the left side. The screw on the left side fed through the nut and back into the playfield. When you're standing above, looking straight down, it's barely noticeable so I took a photo much closer to playfield level. (It really looks exaggerated in the photo.)[quoted image]

I still need to try this. It may work, but regardless, my auto plunger gets progressively weaker throughout the game. Seems as if it's a problem on many Sterns.

I will also try reflowing solder to the joints. (Read in an older topic that the solder joint may not be conducting as well when it heats up.)

I will also perhaps try adding a cabinet bumper or something below the link just below the playfield that effectively places more of the plunger in the coil. (Also read this somewhere else.)

Anyone else experiencing weaker auto plunges the longer you play? Any other thoughts?

#4544 4 years ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

My auto plunger started getting really weak. I took the coil sleeve out and cleaned it out a bit, reassembled it, and it went back to firing 100% again. If I'd had the right size coil sleeve on hand I would have replaced it but just taking it out and cleaning it a bit seemed to do the trick. Of course it also might not have been the coil sleeve and instead something else might have been out of whack that I didn't realize and it got set back into alignment without me knowing it when I did this, but whatever was causing it got sorted out by removing & replacing the coil sleeve and now it's working great again.

I will keep this in mind. I can't get out of my mind how it seems fine when I first begin playing and then after a while it gets weaker. It seems to me, then, it may be electrical; e.g., cold solder joint. I'll just need to get in there and try some fixes. Replacing the coil sleeve will be high on my list. Thank you for the tip.

#4549 4 years ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

Mine was the same getting weaker as the game went on. I even cranked coil power way up and it had no effect - it was still weak and didn’t increase the launch power. I don’t know for sure whether or not the sleeve was the issue but taking it out, moving the plunger a couple times by hand with it out, and putting it back together somehow solved it on mine. On the first launch after I did that I’d forgotten to lower the coil power back down and it ripped out of there. This was about a week ago and so far it’s stayed strong. Hope you get yours figured out.

Interesting. I will likely try this first then. Thanks again.

#4614 4 years ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

Sooooo...any ideas what this does? Default to no[quoted image]

More goat sounds? Are the dinos eating goats?

#4643 4 years ago

For my auto plunger issue - weak after playing a while - I installed a washer under left fork, pulled coil and sleeve and plunger apart and put back together, and re-flowed solder on a joint, and still have the same problem.

Stern tech support told me to switch node boards 8 and 9 to determine if node board before trying new coil.

Nobody else experiencing this?

#4657 4 years ago
Quoted from Lounge:

I’m experiencing this as well. Thanks for posting - I’ll swap my node boards and see if that helps.

Stern also said to make sure to reverse the dip switches when swapping. Wasn't quite sure what that meant, but perhaps they're in the backbox?

11 months later
#6579 3 years ago

In cleaning the jeep assembly, anyone use Super White lithium grease? Or, should I just be using straight alcohol to clean the post? Thanks, everyone.

#6580 3 years ago
Quoted from wheels:

In cleaning the jeep assembly, anyone use Super White lithium grease? Or, should I just be using straight alcohol to clean the post? Thanks, everyone.

I see in another post not to use grease. Just 100% silicone based lubricant, so disregard this post!

#6594 3 years ago
Quoted from 2manyhobbies:

It's not designed to be lubricated. It can get gummed up from dust, firing of coils, ect, if you add lubricant it may get gummed up quicker .just pull the shaft out and clean up with some alcohol.

I will do that. Thanks.

#6595 3 years ago

I'll be installing the Cliffy carbon protectors on the 2 ramps. I plan to remove the left screw for the Tower ramp.

Anyone know which screw to remove for the helicopter ramp?

#6596 3 years ago
Quoted from wheels:

I'll be installing the Cliffy carbon protectors on the 2 ramps. I plan to remove the left screw for the Tower ramp.
Anyone know which screw to remove for the helicopter ramp?

Looking at the shot path, I'm guessing the right screw for the helicopter screw?

9 months later
#8284 2 years ago
Quoted from bdaddy:

Does anyone have any close up pictures of cliffy’s ramp carbon fiber installation? Stupid question but does it go on top of the ramps or does it go under like the post carbon fiber? I saw a photo earlier in the thread but still couldn’t make it out.

I believe the photos provided in another post from Cliffy are mine. I removed the existing metal flaps prior to installing the carbon protectors. I think that's the correct way, but you may want to inquire directly with Cliffy.

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