(Topic ID: 248218)

Welcome To The Jurassic Park Prem/LE Club!!

By Royale-W-Cheese

4 years ago


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Topic poll

“What is the first MOD you will buy??”

  • Toppers 59 votes
    46%
  • New Jeep 51 votes
    40%
  • Plastic Characters 18 votes
    14%

(128 votes)

This poll has been closed.

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Topic index (key posts)

18 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #885 TECH: PLAYFIELD. T-Rex alignment bulletin from Stern. Posted by pickleric (4 years ago)

Post #1396 TECH: PLAYFIELD. Shooter fix Posted by Chambahz (4 years ago)

Post #1619 read before dismantling the raptor Posted by timlah79 (4 years ago)

Post #1830 TECH: PLAYFIELD. T-Rex adjustment info according to Keith Elwin Posted by sk8ball (4 years ago)

Post #2358 TREX Adjustment info Posted by imagamejunky (4 years ago)

Post #2625 TECH: PLAYFIELD. Raptor pit detailed adjustment instructions. Posted by yancy (4 years ago)

Post #2994 TECH: PLAYFIELD. T-Rex head removal tips and Jaw screw fix. Posted by f3honda4me (4 years ago)

Post #3326 Amber Bonus rules and details Posted by fooflighter (4 years ago)

Post #3417 TECH: SWITCHES. Opto sensor not registering on orbit fix Posted by caker137 (4 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#7830 2 years ago

Hi all - does anyone have dimensions for where to drill for LEDs for lighting up the shooter knob? I finally ordered a Modfather amber shooter rod (and one day after I did, got a mail from Marco specialties that the Stern ones that come as an assembly with the LEDs was now in stock again - sigh.) and want to add LEDs to the existing shooter plate. I want to know what angle (don't think that they should be perpendicular - more likely angled toward the shooter) to drill and what is the proper location to get good illumination. Anyone have experience and could make a sketch? Also if you have done this, did you paint the drilled hole barrel black or leave it shiny aluminum?

Thanks in advance!

Best Regards,
Richard

#7833 2 years ago

No problem - here is the link for the stern illuminated amber shooter rod assembly.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/502-7101-00

PS: I have no affiliation with any suppliers/stores.

Best Regards,
Richard

#7838 2 years ago
Quoted from Only_Pinball:

I went to site and grabbed one after your first post. Already got shipping confirmation. These will be gone before the end of the day I bet.
Thanks again!

Yup - I have been coveting one since I got my JPP last November. It will be my first mod. Get them while they last, has been more than 6 months since they were available.

Best Regards,
Richard

#7839 2 years ago

Hi all - another topic: my raptor dude got caught in the downward position on the top of the pen - so it didn't bob when it should. It seemed to be misaligned. I had to remove him, drill out his foot mounting holes so that I could rotate him to bob up and down in the center of the pen gap - and not get his hand caught on the edge.
Anyone else had this issue? It was a real pain to take the raptor off and reassemble, his feet are screwed with phillips from the bottom side of the acrylic plate. I needed a short offset screwdriver which I had to fabricate myself (phillips bit held in needle-nose vice-grip locking pliers). I have since bought a nice offset screwdriver from Amazon to add to my toolbox:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0028DDD2Y

Again - no affiliation with any stores (but I admit I am a bit of an Amazon addict).

Best Regards,
Richard

#7840 2 years ago
Quoted from RoadQueen:

Not sure if this might help. I have a stern amber shooter rod and bought a shooter plate from Tiltgraphics. The plate did not have holes for the LEDs so I drilled those myself. Hopefully the closeup picture helps you locate the spots. From what I can tell the holes for the LEDs on the stern base plate where perpendicular to the plate, which is already angled up a bit towards the knob, and the LEDs themselves where through the hole barrel attached to a wire, flush with the surface. So I’m not sure it matters to paint the hole barrel. [quoted image]

Thanks RoadQueen for the close up picture - I can use that as a guide when I drill mine.

Best Regards,
Richard

#7846 2 years ago
Quoted from Damonator:

Ugh - I hate you. Had 9 items in my cart and it was sold out when I just finished shopping.

Modfather has the amber rod and it should be easy to add LEDs.
https://modfatherpinball.com/products/jurassic-park-amber-with-mosquito-shooter-stern

See the installation thread here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-jurassic-park-pro-shooter-rod-installation-instructions#post-5818500

I'll report on my from-scratch LED install when I am finished.

Best Regards,
Richard

#7867 2 years ago

Ok. Had something really weird happen today. All the high scores on my JPP reset except for grand champion. Is this a software bug or something? We had no power glitches or anything like that. Has anyone had this happen to them?
Thanks!

#7874 2 years ago
Quoted from scootss:

...and you can turn this feature off. Something like HSTD RESET COUNT

Yes - the default is 2000 games before HSTD reset. It can be set to 0-10000 games or to never. I set it to never.
Thanks!

Best Regards,
Richard

3 weeks later
#7960 2 years ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

Did you heat the arm up slowly? The trick is to get the arm heated THROUGHOUT the entire arm. All of the plastic, not just the surface material. Even though 30 seconds of heat will make the arm 'feel' soft and bendable, you need the whole arm to soften, including the inside. You will know that has happened as the arm will be willing to stay in any position you choose without any resistance or memory of the arm trying to move back to original, THEN you allow it to cool. Instead of 30 seconds, try moving your heat source away a little more, and then applying for 90 seconds or so. Let the whole arm get completely soft, and then be ready to hold it in its 'new' place for 4-5 minutes. This is definitely not a quick "heat and go" process.

If you continue to struggle with this, there is a different method that I used. I removed the raptor completely and enlarged/elongaged the holes in its feet to allow me to install it (rotated a few degrees) so that its hand doesn't get caught on the raptor pen. It is not easy to get raptor off and put it back - but it is possible. My raptor is working perfectly since I rotated it a bit.
Good luck!

#7962 2 years ago
Quoted from JMCFAN:

Any pointers on removal?

Remove the circled fasteners - note there is one more nut that is left of the picture that doesn't show. You also have to remove the standoff at the back that is circled. There may be one more screw - sorry I didn't take photos when I had it apart. Then you can wiggle the raptor assembly loose high enough to get an offset ratchet screwdriver underneath it - between plastic and the metal side of the ramp. The phillips head screw that holds the raptor faces downward (thanks Stern!). Then you can unscrew the 2 nuts that hold it down, elongate the holes as necessary with a drill or small file, and re-assemble in orientation so that the raptor hands do not get stuck when lowered by the solenoid.
Took me about 45 minutes - may be faster for you given these hints....

Has been solid since I did it so I know it is permanent.

Good luck!

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1 month later
#8164 2 years ago

So I am too cheap to buy the 35Euro Pteranodon mod https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1338-pino-pinball-mods-shop/05234-pteranodon
I found this one on Amazon for 10 bucks. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GL1BHO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00
Drilled a small hole into his body and mounted him with a piece of AWG 14 wire and voila!
The wire is flimsy enough that he shakes around - kind of like he is flying - it is a cool effect.
Now I have money left for a beer.
Cheers!

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#8176 2 years ago

Hi - I did it differently - see post 7839: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/157#post-6415202
I took the raptor off and drilled the holes larger so I could rotate it. Has been working ever since.
Good luck!

#8178 2 years ago
Quoted from gblack:Thanks for the replies. I didn't think of drilling larger holes to rotate but that pen isn't a quick disassemble!

Agreed - the disassembly was not quick nor easy. The heating method definitely is easier but someone reported difficulty in getting the raptor to stay after cooling. I think that is why the latest instructions say to heat slowly and for longer time to allow internal plastic to become soft and then set properly with new shape.
Best Regards,
Richard

1 year later
#8915 1 year ago

Just finished custom cupholder for JP. Really happy with how it turned out. And yes, the Trex teeth are red
Man I love 3D printing!

Next up are MM and TZ.

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1 year later
#9178 58 days ago
Quoted from CypherPinball:

We got the mouth closing consistently with covering up half the opto on the right side. So trex is pretty much dialed in now.
One more question. Is there an adjustment for how long the trex will thrash with the ball at the start of trex multiball? It seems like it gets held for a decent amount of time. The second ball is well into play when it finally gets released.

For most of the "hold" actions in the game, if you press and hold both flipper buttons at the same time, the game will skip the delay time. Definitely speeds up the game when you know what you are doing.
Cheers!

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