My shaker motor was missing the z-cap portion to hook up the capacitor. So when I plugged it in I was left with 2 female connectors. I contacted stern and they said the newer machines like JP don’t need the optional capacitor because it is already built into the spike 2 board. I have been running it without the optional capacitor and it works fine.

I have been having issues with the left ramp registering shots. I found a post in this thread about placing electrical tape on the bottom half of the opto sensor holes. This post was a year old. I wanted to check to see if this is still the best fix or is there a better recommendation out there.

Thanks. I did check after I read more in this thread. I have the updated plate. It seems that it is the exit sensor that is not reading all the time. So at some point I will have to pull it out and see if it needs a shim to fix the alignment.

Probably a dumb Noob question but I can’t find the answer on any of the threads. How do I install the cliffy ramp protectors? Or do I even need to? There is a metal ramp entrance with convex screws. The carbon fiber protector doesn’t fit over the screws. Am I suppose to switch out the screws. Do I install it short of the screws. Thanks. (Image of the protector just lying on the field is for reference. I know that I don’t install it here. .

C3FDF5BB-E7D2-4573-BDF8-B5FD81B0DDB0 (resized).jpeg

Ok. Great. I was wondering if that was the case. So second dumb noob question. Why is this needed? Are the metal ramps not protective enough? I have installed the other cliffy protectors. But this seems like a fairly protected area. Or is it to get rid of the screws so they don’t block the shots? Thanks.

Great. Thanks for all the help. Very helpful group here. Have been trying to read all the thread even before buying the machine, but 140+ pages is a lot of posts to get through.

BTW, has anyone checked out sideshow toys for Jurassic park figures. They have some amazing t-Rex molds. But not cheap. Would make a very cool topper.

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