(Topic ID: 248218)

Welcome To The Jurassic Park Prem/LE Club!!

By Royale-W-Cheese

4 years ago


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“What is the first MOD you will buy??”

  • Toppers 59 votes
    46%
  • New Jeep 51 votes
    40%
  • Plastic Characters 18 votes
    14%

(128 votes)

This poll has been closed.

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Topic index (key posts)

18 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #885 TECH: PLAYFIELD. T-Rex alignment bulletin from Stern. Posted by pickleric (4 years ago)

Post #1396 TECH: PLAYFIELD. Shooter fix Posted by Chambahz (4 years ago)

Post #1619 read before dismantling the raptor Posted by timlah79 (4 years ago)

Post #1830 TECH: PLAYFIELD. T-Rex adjustment info according to Keith Elwin Posted by sk8ball (4 years ago)

Post #2358 TREX Adjustment info Posted by imagamejunky (4 years ago)

Post #2625 TECH: PLAYFIELD. Raptor pit detailed adjustment instructions. Posted by yancy (4 years ago)

Post #2994 TECH: PLAYFIELD. T-Rex head removal tips and Jaw screw fix. Posted by f3honda4me (4 years ago)

Post #3326 Amber Bonus rules and details Posted by fooflighter (4 years ago)

Post #3417 TECH: SWITCHES. Opto sensor not registering on orbit fix Posted by caker137 (4 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#3578 4 years ago

No offense to the poster, but I wouldn’t do most of this.

I’m not replacing all the coil stops, I have one on hand though in case.

I’m not buffing a brand new playfield with a thin layer of clear.

One, maybe two layers of wax. By layer three your just removing the wax you just put down.

You don’t need washers under ball guides, but maybe check they aren’t over tight.

Most games do need a ball guide tweaked here or there, but that’s really minor.

Quoted from GamerRick:

It’s a shame that we have to do any of this.

#3592 4 years ago

Love this game. So much to do, so many ways to play, so many shots to hit.

I got the premium, 100% get the pro. I don’t regret my decision because this game is amazing, but the value just isn’t there. The pro is a phenomenal value.

Quoted from konghusker:

How you guys liking this game so far? I'm looking at getting a premium, vs a SW premium or Wonka LE. Think long-term keeper since I don't really sell anything. Opinions? Thanks

#3653 4 years ago

Thanks for posting your resolution. Doesn’t happen enough where people go back and update.

Quoted from timlah79:

I hope this helps

#3710 4 years ago

I’ve had balls hang there, just not that often.

You can adjust the position of the one way gate. Adjusted correctly it should prevent hangups but it can reduce the effectiveness of the shot.

Quoted from fooflighter:

Never had a ball hang there in 1900 games

1 week later
#3806 4 years ago

Maybe we can get a better, more accurately machined bracket to replace the current ones.

#3812 4 years ago

I don’t see what you mean about the opto but what is that strange looking grease on your rail?

Quoted from Nameim:

Yesterday, my left ramp/trex opto suddenly stopped working on my JP premium. On closer inspection I think found the problem. Part of the post on the right side of the entrance to the ramp is missing leaving the opto vulnerable to bashing. I don’t think it was ever there since there are no “spare parts’ floating around the playfield or cabinet. I have contacted Stern and they are sending parts.

#3845 4 years ago

You need the blades to spin on the Prem/LE. The blades are an optical switch that has game play implications.

Quoted from CoolCatPinball:

No, the blades do not spin, but who cares. I hated the stock helicopter. My machine is a pro btw.

#4022 4 years ago

Take the screw you have, go to any big box hardware store, find someone in the applicable colored vest, hand them the screw and tell them you'd like four more.

They will match it for you.

Quoted from WizardsCastle:

or if I can find them at a hardware store

#4080 4 years ago

Also, try and just your control room switch. Make it as sensitive as possible. Triggering the switch quicker could help bring that post up that much quicker.

Quoted from JP76:

Sometimes when I shoot the control room the ball comes back and the up post hits the ball

#4107 4 years ago

Yes. I meant to physically adjust the switch so that it triggers as quickly as possible.

Quoted from JP76:

I think what he means is to adjust the leaf switch. I don’t believe there is an adjustment for the switch in the menu. I’d love to know if there is an adjustment for the switch or the up post.

#4110 4 years ago

They did a LOT better job on the Dino, it behaves a lot more like you would expect now. Still room for improvement though.

Quoted from Royale-W-Cheese:

I see we have a new code.

Time to install and pay some attention to Sue.

Have a great day.

-1
#4146 4 years ago

People like games that are new, and they like games that they own. It's dropping because the honeymoon phase is wearing off and since it's newer, not that many people own it yet. The list itself is proof that it's not a list of top anything.

Quoted from imagamejunky:

I just happened to look at the top 100 and I see that JP has dropped down to number 8 now. How on earth can this be?

#4210 4 years ago

I don't think that's a handle, is it?

Quoted from OLDPINGUY:

use the handle

1 month later
#4619 4 years ago

If your mech is that mucked up, I'd call 1-800-kickers and work with Stern on it.

In terms of the T-Rex ramp opto issue, I think a lot of people forget there is a test for that. Go into the menu and do the left ramp test. You will manually launch a ball into the shooter lane, this game puts the ball on the right flipper. Shoot the left ramp. It will count the number of entry and exit opto switch closures. If your game has more exit closures than entry I'd stark fiddling around with the opto etc. If not, I would suspect something else.

Also, removing the two black spacers from the clear plastic at the front of the ramp isn't an ideal solution. They are there because the ball hits the plastic too easy. While it does keep the ball from jumping over the opto, it also slows the shot down and can lead to certain weaker shots not making it up the ramp that might have otherwise. At this point, there are so many suggestions on how to fix the opto that I would leave the spacers in.

Quoted from beelzeboob:

I'm about to shoot my T-Rex in the head. Sometimes he doesn't open his mouth. Sometimes he opens his mouth but doesn't swallow the ball (I have the old ramp shield...I guess I should try to get a new one). Sometimes he just rests his head to the right side of the ramp and doesn't open his mouth, like he's taking a nap or something. And sometimes he opens his mouth, swallows the ball, and does everything just as he should.

It's infuriating because it seems like I have EVERY problem with my T-Rex that everybody has described before, and I'm not really sure where to start outside of doing a complete rebuild and working out the opto situation.

Anybody have any ideas or fixes offhand? I don't think anything in software (the bias adjustments, for instance) will fix this.

2 years later
#8804 1 year ago

Are they making any more premiums this year?

3 months later
#8908 1 year ago

$9K, LOL.

Quoted from CoinGuyNinja:

before making your pin a 9k paperweight.

1 week later
#8931 1 year ago

Where are you guys getting NIB premiums from?

2 weeks later
#8939 1 year ago

Terry at Pinball Life has always been happy to place Stern orders for me.

Quoted from Markharris2000:

Still trying to repair my T-rex head, Stern support recommended that I replace the Servo Motor, Switch 68, and the Controller but I am out of warranty. I found the servo and switch at PBL, but wondering if anyone has recommendations on source or a distributor that 'is happy' to order replacement parts like the board (520-8424-00). The distributor that I purchased the machine from originally seems to have ignored my requests....
Suggestions welcome.

3 weeks later
#8969 1 year ago

I have a great 3D printer, but no design skills. I made an adapter for a stroller once that went through way more iterations than it should have.

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

if you have the design skills, 3D printer, and already have the filaments (PLA/PETG for main piece and TPU for flex pieces) you could easily create your own for a fraction of the cost (I realize this is not the case for most people)

2 months later
#8986 11 months ago

Anyone know when the premiums are going to leave the building?

#8988 10 months ago

I just got the email this morning.

Quoted from Markharris2000:

I think the factory has been shipping JP premiums for two weeks, with some units still in transit to some distributors…

1 week later
#8994 10 months ago

For those of you that have installed a playfield protector, about how long did it take you?

#8996 10 months ago

No what?

#8998 10 months ago

Why?

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

No playfield protector.
[quoted image]

#9003 10 months ago

Thanks.

Quoted from MrMikeman:

I've done it on a Dr Who. From my experience:
- They affect game play despite their claim they do not.
- Dirt WILL get under the protector. It's inevitable and happens right away. Then it looks like shit.
- Other than selling to noobs who may believe the hype, you may have a hard time selling the game later. Nobody wants that crap on their game. It's not a selling point, believe me.
- A few well placed cliffy protectors will achieve the protection you seek.
- Game needs a significant teardown to install this.
PF protectors may have a reason for existence on 30+ year old games. They don't protect anymore than the clearcoat does on WPC and newer games, epecially in home use. I have about 4500 plays on my JP with NO cliffys or any kind of protector. Game still looks new. Just clean it once in a while and change the balls when they become scratched.
But, as always, everyone has an opinion. You do you. If you feel like a pf protector is essential, then nobody will be able to convince you otherwise.

#9007 10 months ago

I tried searching but didn’t see it.

Brand new JP, zero games played, the trex head is hitting the ramp as it moves side to side, gets caught and grinds.

I don’t see any adjustment. Any ideas?

#9009 10 months ago

Ah. I was thinking physical adjustment.

Quoted from AMartin56:

There is an adjustment in the service menu. I don't remember all the details as the menu entries vary widely from game to game but it is there.

#9010 10 months ago

Unfortunately there is more than that going on.

I can home the t-Rex horizontally if I hold the mech so the head doesn’t hit the ramp, but vertical test does nothing.

In switch test mode, 66 is lit (down) and 65 and 64 work.

I re-seated the connectors on the little board the horizontal motor plugs into. Is there a little red LED on that board like the board above it? If so, it’s off.

Is there any way to test vertical motor and narrow this issue down?

Thanks.

Quoted from AMartin56:

There is an adjustment in the service menu. I don't remember all the details as the menu entries vary widely from game to game but it is there.

#9011 10 months ago

Works now. The wiring guys on the line needed a smidge more slack on the wires. I traced the purple and red wires to a node board and the connector with 1/2 on.

Quoted from jalpert:

Unfortunately there is more than that going on.
I can home the t-Rex horizontally if I hold the mech so the head doesn’t hit the ramp, but vertical test does nothing.
In switch test mode, 66 is lit (down) and 65 and 64 work.
I re-seated the connectors on the little board the horizontal motor plugs into. Is there a little red LED on that board like the board above it? If so, it’s off.
Is there any way to test vertical motor and narrow this issue down?
Thanks.

#9014 10 months ago

I am also a re-purchase. I sold my premium and it was a terrible terrible mistake. It's back now.

3 weeks later
#9064 9 months ago

Double posting is rational, two threads are silly.

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Everyone, YOU DON'T HAVE TO DUPLICATE YOUR POSTS IN BOTH THREADS. I assure you that owners who follow one of them also follow the other. Just to prove it, I'm not going to post this message in the other thread.

9 months later
#9219 2 days ago

Get a new tech.

Quoted from timlah79:

I 100% agree about disabling the shaker motor. When I first got my JP LE (back in 2019) and needed a tech to come over for help with random screws falling out and such, the first thing he advised was to disable that shaker motor since it will eventually cause even more physical issues later on. So I've had mine disabled ever since. It's a cool feature but not cool enough for me personally to jeopardize the physical workings of the machine. There is a setting for "minimal use" which is probably the best advice for anyone who really loves the shaker but I do feel like it causes things to come loose over time regardless. Maybe newer JP builds have been better with less risk of things getting shaken loose. I'm just speaking my 2 cents to my experience with my original JP LE built in 2019.

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