My dealer said the LEs have started to ship.

It's a bit funny that full artwork up to the post for a seemless playfield with the possibility of a small chip here or there is worse than large gaps of no artwork around every post everywhere!

I agree that it looks neater and intentional. It is also my preference over having chips.

But it is still a substantially greater loss of artwork than a few chips would ever be.

Apparently a handful of early JP2 pros do too!

I suspect the chipping is a result of an inflexibility with the color that prefers to adhere to the gloss instead of the wood. On new machines, this would manifest at posts that squeeze the wood when tightened.

My biggest concern is what happens when the ball leaves a large dimple in the middle of the playfield. I'd hate to see a chip there.

Ha... and on the day that people are finally starting to receive their machines!

Yeah... It's kind of bad timing, too.

I think an owners thread is probably a good choice for asking people to help you decide to jump in, given the price.

But giving the impression that you don't think it's worth it, but hey change my mind, is sort of a downer on delivery day.

I do love cruises and I'm in for an LE, so...

Got a tracking number. The truck will arrive at the depot in my city on Friday... But, they can't confirm if it will be offloaded that Friday or Monday.

I usually get a call one day out that it arrived in the local hub and then we schedule a delivery date that is usually next day, but sometimes more than that.

That can be treated differently depending on the local hub. Some are adamant that they will not schedule home delivery until it is on hand at the local facility. Other people are more willing to schedule it as it gets close to the facility. This also varies by shipper and sometimes the personality of the scheduling agent! I suggest trying to get it scheduled when it is a day out to the local hub. Worst case scenario is they say they won't and you just call back the next day for the appointment.

I also agree that you should request the tracking number as soon as you can. Not every dealer makes the effort to forward that info to you right away.

Yeah, if the posts were actually funneled specifically to pro vs premium issues, then I can understand two forums. But so much of the posts on the LE forum have involved asking about the pro playfield and general playability issues that I've just been interacting in both forums. I've even seen posts repeated across both forums, and answers to questions only listed in one of the forums -- making them easy to miss. I think it also makes it seem like the premium people are being snooty. But of course, I don't think that's the intention.

Yes.

My delivery has been delayed. It is sitting 5 miles from my home since Fri. but I can't pick it up and they can't deliver it until Tues!

For those who received it... Does the dinosaur throw the ball around? I'm hearing maybe it doesn't even though their marketing video clearly showed it doing that.

So glad to hear that! Thanks.

Mine arrived on Fri. at the local destination hub. As of an hour ago, they still haven't unloaded the truck and I don't have a delivery appointment!

You may want to check you balls to see if they have any surface imperfections.

I'm sorry to hear that. Can you share pictures?

Got my LE tonight! Overall, pretty good. It is unfortunately missing some parts on the playfield. That's a bit disappointing. I need to call Stern tomorrow.

#290 has arrived!

First I want to say that I am overall, very happy with it. It is very fun, and looks beautiful. I do have a few issues with it, but I guess that is to be expected with such a complicated machine. This is my experience with #290:

1. The raptor above the raptor cage does not move. In examining the LE/Premium Features video online and comparing it against the toy in my machine, it appears some parts are missing or were never installed on the playfield. Picture below. Notice the post that nothing is screwed into. The video does not show the mech very well. If anyone can send me a good picture of your working raptor mechanism, I'd appreciate it. Raptor (resized).jpg

2. The helicopter blades are hitting the ramp. I am not sure of the best way to adjust them.

3. One of the plastics in the front is chipped in a noticeable location. 20190925_081008 (resized).jpg

4. The T-rex mouth was open and clamped against the ramp and the spinner frame when it was unpacked. It was extremely hard to dislodge it. In fact, the installer (a professional pinball store owner) could not dislodge it. We deduced it might be intentional and powered it on. It made some weird sounds and the T-Rex did not move. We turned it off right away. Afterwards, it was very loos and we were able to shimmy its jaws away from the ramp. Turned it on again and it all appears to work fine. Eats the ball every time! However, there is a lot of up and down slack/wobble in the arm. Can anyone verify if that is normal, or if something got loose and needs tightening.

5. There is a location where a side wall was tightened into the playfield over the artwork. In that location, there is pooling/creep of the clear coat. Every where else is fine. The rest of the clear coat is noticeably thinner than all of my other games. I hope it does not prematurely wear.

6. A few lighting harnesses wiggled off the terminal. I put them back on and they are fine.

If mine gets loose, I think I'm going to replace the washer on the reverse side of the playfield with a larger diameter washer. It should give it much more stability. I only have 6 plays on it, so I'm not there yet!

I don't want to overstate the problems. It is a complicated machine. Sure, there are a few clean up issues, but I'm sure when I get the rest of the parts from Stern, it'll be all of an hour or so of adjustment to dial it in. Not to bad in my opinion.

I received a request to clarify the creep/pooling comment I made in my previous post about my LE. I don't want to panic anyone! All the posts that I see are fine where the artwork was removed. My LE has what I think is an anomaly where a side-wall is clamped against the playfield over artwork. I couldn't get the lighting right in just one photo to demonstrate both issues, so I took two. One shows the gaps, the other shows the clear coat creep that caused it to pool in that isolated spot.

In the first picture, notice the side-wall is compressed against the playfield near the nut? I think there was supposed to be a gap there like all of the rest of the sidewalls, and indeed, even the rest of that particular side wall. But that corner may have gotten overtightened. It resulted in the sidewall pressing firmly against the PF in that corner in an area over the artwork.

And sure enough, where that pressure is applied over the paint, you can see in the second photo that the clear has creeped out from under it causing it to pool around that area slightly. Thankfully, I don't think that area will get beaten up too badly or the vibration may eventually lead that raised clear coat around the steel wall to chip off.

Gap (resized).jpg

Pooling (resized).jpg

True. I don't want to play it until I figure out how to fix the helicopter blades. I also realized that maybe the missing part is actually loose in the machine somewhere! Or maybe the screw is... I'm actually a bit worried that it could cause a problem if it stuck in there somewhere. I think I need to leave it off until these things gets resolved and I do a really thorough search for it.

Agreed. It is not what people are worried about AND NO ONE SHOULD PANIC. The posts are fine and look good.

I have one side-wall (probably incorrectly) pressed into the playfield over the artwork and that's where it pooled. This is an anomaly! Is the clearcoat still susceptible to deforming under pressure where there is artwork? Apparently yes and I don't know why. But the fact that there is pressure at this point that caused the slight pooling is probably unique to my machine.

Ha! Mine did come with a lot of foam. Dumb me threw it out with the packaging.

I got a much better photo. As you can see, it is not pooling around the posts. It is only where the sidewall is pressed tightly against the PF. (It is not normally supposed to be pressed against the playfield). In this photo, you get a sense of the height of the pool, and can even see it reflected in the steel side-wall.

Click on the picture and zoom in to actual size to see it clearly.
Wall Pooling (resized).jpg

Sure... but they are clear coated before installation and the chance that the run would exactly match the counter of the side wall that is installed afterwards is not likely. In fact, I can also see a bulge in the clear on the reverse side of that wall too. It would be very hard to photograph that without removing some plastics, but it is visible. Also, it is much more obvious in person that the side-wall is pressed against the playfield in that exact area, and where it isn't pressed against it is the exact spot where the deformity stops.

Yeah, but I'm not too worried about it. I let Stern know so they can document it and hopefully continue to improve. I suspect most machines will show that ramp raised above the clear and not sloping into it. If that is the case, it is a none issue for everyone. But I would be remiss if I didn't mention it.

I don't know you, but I'm getting to know this game and I can safely say that you are going to love it!

I got a much better picture of the gap issue that is causing the side-wall to press into the playfield by turning on the GI lights. Take a look at the attached. Like a post or washer pressing into the clear, here, you can see the wall is pressing into the clear. Probably an anomaly. Nonetheless, that pressure has deformed the clear in MY machine, but I don't think this would affect anyone whose side-walls aren't pressed into the PF over the artwork.

It's also worth reminding that the clear coat appears to be much thinner, so it is no surprise to me that the deformed clear coat on mine is less raised (and less noticeable) than it appears on the more thickly coated machines we've seen on earlier pros.

Gap 2 (resized).jpg

Yes. Florida.

Update with my LE issues. Again, I don't' want to overstate the problems by bringing them up. It's just some minor stuff that needs to get worked out, but I hope it is helpful to some. With regard to my earlier post, (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/15#post-5222321) After speaking with Stern (who was all over it and working to get me help) these are the resolutions:

1. They forgot to install some parts that makes the raptor move. They are sending out the necessary hardware.

2. They suggested I bend the ramp down and away slightly to avoid contact between the blades and the ramp and they recommended that I do NOT adjust the helicopter itself. Caution as it is hard to bend and it rests on a single post above the right bumper that could get deformed. With careful and precise bending, I was NOT able to avoid contact between the blades and the rail. But it is much better! I may uninstall the ramp and try to bend it further so I don't risk bending that first post.

3. They are sending a new plastic that is not chipped.

4. T-Rex is fine! They confirmed that the movement in the video I provided is normal.

5. Ooof… I'll get back to 5.

6. The wiring harnesses were on the doors coin release bulbs. I slightly crimped the connector and re-installed them on the super tiny contacts.

OKAY, 5... So we discovered the problem was greater than originally thought. The nut was so over-tightened that the entire wall wasn't just tight against the PF, but also twisted away from the plastic above it by over 1/4 of an inch. My original pictures showed it, but I didn't realize it was an anomaly. See below (new comments in orange):

A (resized).jpg

AND:

B (resized).jpg

I loosened the nut underneath the wall a few turns and the ramp popped up and away from the PF, and also untwisted itself to align perfectly with the plastic such that the top edge was about 1/16 UNDER the entire plastic. The clear coat that was under pressure from the wall and ALSO over a painted area, had migrated out and away from the edges of the wall (just like it does with posts and posts with washers) creating a raised surface on both sides of the wall. Fortunately it isn't too bad because of the thinner clear coat and the small surface area of the wall edge. Does this mean the PFs still have pooling problems or not? I don't know. But it only seems to be an issue where there is a pressure point on the clear AND where there is paint. Sadly, some color did lift when the wall was raised, leaving a white line, but the good news is that the wood itself is not compressed under that wall section, and only slightly indented by the hole. Stern was glad to hear the damage isn't too bad. They are sending me the parts I need and a T-Shirt. See pictures below (you may need to click to view them actual size):

C (resized).jpg

D (resized).jpg

Thank you everyone for your help.

I think that's right. Plus they forgot some playfield parts. They were kind of embarrassed by that.

Mine was aligned great. I noticed a lot of calibration settings in the menu to adjust stuff like that.

Totally agree. Even with a few out of the box issues, I'm extremely happy with it. It's a beautiful machine, plays great, display graphics are great, and it's the best code I've seen that's sub 1.0

I will add that even despite my issues, I am extremely happy with the game. It is a great addition.

About those animations... Before I got the game, I was leaning toward the side that would prefer actual movie clips... after playing the game a lot, I completely get it now. I didn't realize at first how many memorable scenes are faithfully produced in their above-average CG. Because of this, they were able to blend those re-created scenes with new visuals seamlessly. It fits so well with the game aesthetic. Had they stuck with actual movie clips only, it would have limited the game to a sound-board style game and made it far less immersive. Had they used only new CG scenes, it would have felt more like a dinosaur game and not like a Jurassic Park game. I think they married the two concepts together very well.

I love my JP2 LE. I really do. Despite the issues I had. I played it today and a washer rolled down the playfield and settled by the left out-lane. I turned off the game. Looked to see where it may have come from, and found three bubbles/blisters in the gloss without even really looking for such things. This is a rough start for me. (You will need to view the pictures in actual size to see it clearly)
New Probems (resized).jpg

I'm at a loss now. I looked over the playfield more carefully this time. I'm guessing there isn't a fix for peeled paint. 22 games in.

20190926_180607 (resized).jpg

Thanks. I can deal with the clear. But the flaking of the paint right in front of the apron is a tough pill to swallow. The picture doesn't show that it's too bad, but a much larger area has already lifted from the plywood and it's only a matter of time before that flakes off too.

Top down view

Paint Peel2 (resized).jpg

No. This is by the apron. The other area already has some paint removed, but I didn't make a big deal about it because it is mostly where you can't see it. I'm not a nit-picky guy, so I just ignored it. But this is kind of in your face.

My dealer had two boxes next to each other and asked which number I wanted. I guess I picked the wrong one.

So the weird thing is that the rippled and peeled paint seems rock hard in that rippled shape. I'm sure the paint wouldn't ripple along the apron edge, and then they'd clear coat it afterward... But how does it ripple with a fully dry clear coat?

I suppose if the clear coat was soft, and the surface got pulled when they installed the apron, it might wrinkle the paint, and then when the clear cures, it stiffens up the wrinkles? I'm just speculating. I would have thought poor adhesion would just cause it to chip away. But to ripple and then get hardened in that shape? Weird.

Anyone think a green sharpie would fix this up? Maybe they'll send me one when they send the missing parts they forgot to install on the playfield.

I have had great experiences with Stern in the past. I bought my first LE thinking I would finally step up to a really premium experience. I browsed Pinside while waiting for it to help with the anticipation. Then I saw this thread. But I still trusted Stern and assumed these horrible cases were in the minority.

I'm sorry to here.

This is all new to me. I haven't had to deal with anything like this in the past with my Premiums. I have no idea what to expect. Stern customer support has always been great to me, but I don't know their process or even what I'm entitled to ask for. We have also never really disagreed on anything, so I wouldn't be prepared for a scenario where we may.

I trust my dealer. An excellent local store owner that I trust and who has tons of history with Stern. I'm going to ask him his thoughts on it before making any decisions.

Thank you. I have been keeping Stern in the loop and will notify my local distributer. He's a great guy with tons of history with stern and I fully trust him.

Stern is already aware of the missing parts, mysterious washers showing up on the playfield, and everything else. I agree it is a weird anomaly. I can't imagine why it would wrinkle and then harden in a wrinkled shape unless they were installing parts on undried paint (but why would anyone do that?)

Anyway, I'll see what they say and move forward. I'm sure in a month or so I'll have a great game that plays fantastic and I will no longer care about the hassle it took to get there.

That seems like a good precaution. With my situation, I would have expected a scrape or scratch. The wrinkles show no sign of adherence to the wood. And they are rigid. Almost like the clear is firmly coating the wrinkles themselves. I would have expected chipping. I'm not sure how a clear coat deforms so rigidly around those wrinkles after it hardens.

I'm liking the green!

I completely understand your viewpoint. As troubled as I am by this, I don't regret buying it. For me, personally, I look at it like having a paint chip on a Lamborghini. I'm glad I get to own one, even if it is imperfect.

I'm not going to let Stern off the hook, though.

Mine had that issue . Stern's official response was to bend the wire form down and away from the blade

Be careful though. It is tough to bend and it is screwed into a single post above the right bumper that can bend if you put too much pressure on the wire-form.

Stern has offered to send me a clear touch-up kit. Does anyone know if that will help mitigate this?

3 (resized).jpg

Thanks everyone. I have got several other NIB Stern's in the past, but this problem is completely new to me -- so I appreciate the guidance. I haven't heard back from their QC people yet. This might have just been my Stern contact person offering what he could while we wait for their response. In which case I appreciate the gesture. I don't think they have made any final decisions yet. And I know I haven't. So I'm not ready to call this their offered resolution just yet. I also haven't spoken to my distributor yet (but will today). I'll keep you all posted if I hear anything else from them.

Thanks for sharing that experience. I've had interactions with many companies over the years and Stern has always been exceptional in my mind. It is disappointing to have issues, but I do believe they care enough to figure this out. I have every reason to think that I'll have a great game when all the dust settles. Not having been through something like this before (and with my first LE, no less!) I had no idea what to even expect out of this process. Pinside has been very helpful in this regard.

I like the visuals, but the sound effects add a lot too. I'm not sure if the pros have the sound effects or not.

In my mind, it is the difference between a decoration and interactive element.

For me, the difference between the pro and premium is the T-REX. It is phenomenal. It watches the ball, it coordinates its movements with the display and sound effects. It picks up the ball and releases it in different ways. It moves with the story in certain modes (like escape the t-rex mode). I've played both versions and both are fun. But geez, the implementation of the T-rex is above and beyond.

I don't think it's officially resolved in their mind yet. Stern reached out to me and let me know they are discussing it internally.

Knowing what I know now, I would absolutely buy this as my first pin. Sure, mine is a temporary hassle, but it will be sorted out.

My guess is that you'll judge future pins against how good this one is for years. It's hard to top.

Congrats, you'll love it.

Ok... Let's get some pictures. Try to get pictures in the mouth, and of the rear mechanism. Height, angle, that sort of thing and I'll compare it against mine. Maybe we'll find a difference

Little Shop of Games is great!

I had tried twice now to write up why this is the best game I've ever played. But I would have to write a full page worth of bullet points to just get started.

I can tell you that effect is seen some times with finishing musical instruments when the grain is not (or improperly) sealed with a grain filler or sanding seeler. You basically let a thinned out lacquer soak into the wood grain. As it dries, the grain raises and you sand it glass smooth. Then you apply the finish and can achieve a piano gloss finish.

Failure to do that can cause the grain to stay soft and raise at any time moisture or humidity penetrates deeply enough (from either the top or underside). Usually this happens during the remainder of the finishing process, but it can easily get worse weeks or months later when exposed to enough humidity.

I don't know if that's similar to how PFs are made.

Okay. In my personal opinion.

- The best game I've ever played. Both the best in terms of approachability for casual players new to the game, and the best for continuing to challenge owners with depth, nuance, options, and customized experiences. There are tons of goals above just getting points and setting records. How many dinos did you capture, or lives saved? Did you get the system back on? Did you collect DNA or fossils (by shooting cool combos)?

- Best toy. And best implementation of a toy. Eating the ball, throwing it in different ways, synchronization to sound effects. Watching the ball during gameplay, user interaction, Trex multiball, Trex car chase scene, Trex save the person trapped in the car, Trex rampage... So many uses. It's an amazing addition.

- Best pre-1.0 code and on its way to being the best code I've played on. Meaningful gameplay, different kinds of interactions with raptors, trex, and a varied advancement through the padocks? All being done purposefully. Non repetative callouts. Ridiculous depth. And did I mention this is pre 1.0 with new major stuff to come?

- excellent shots and combos. Fun ball launch. Excellent flow. Fast, but intentional. Major ramps and scoops. All very visible. Nothing is hidden. Great view of the ball, but everything still looks full inside. Its hard but accessible, and very few "I lost but it wasn't my fault" moments. Great ball returns too. You feel in control much more than on other games.

- theme implementation... Somehow I'm reliving my favorite scenes in the movie while also doing my own thing? A great balance that makes it less like a soundboard and more like a real Jurassic Park experience.

- Best display. This isn't just movie clips (although my favorite scenes have been faithfully redone). Nor is this Adobe Illustrator style cutouts. It's great CG that recreates the movie and blends it into the aesthetic of the game. Recreating these scenes must have cost a fortune, but it allowed them to really integrate the movie with the game in a way that would be impossible with just clips. This is going to set a new standard for pinball CG in my opinion. Even the voice acting (which I was originally not excited about) allows more varied and specific callouts in a way that movie clips wouldn't have been able to do alone. I get it now.

- artwork it's great, overall look makes me feel like I'm on the island. I couldn't ask for anything else.

Ha. That and the "rain" on the pinblades will hide a lot of scratches!

Yay. I just got the notification from UPS that Stern created the shipping label for the parts they forgot to install on the playfield. It shouldn't be long now!

I played a game last night and I could have sworn that the rescue light by the T-rex ramp was white and not orange. Am I going crazy or does that light change to white?

So can someone confirm for me that this is indeed the wrong insert color?

All other rescue inserts are orange. Why is this one white?

EDIT: I just saw a screen shot from Stern's page. Thiers is orange. Mine is clear. Unless I'm misreading it, this is really bad. Did they actually use the wrong color insert? Jeez. How many mistakes on one playfield?

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Jeez. The list keeps growing with this playfield. Missing parts, wall overtightened and cutting into playfield, peeled paint, helicopter hitting the ramp, and now the wrong insert?

Is there a fix for this? Would an orange/red bulb help? I'm not sure what to do.
INSERT Problem (resized).jpg

He has asked them to contact him.

Interesting. Thank you. It is wildly distracting when playing a game. I couldn't even understand how a clear square insert got there, but then I noticed they also use one in the raptor cage. Must have been a mixup.

I just feel like it's more than a QC issue. At some point, that person learned it should be orange but didn't speak up about having done it wrong... What about the person who put the labels on the inserts all day? They didn't notice the word RESCUE was going over a clear when they've done hundreds (thousands) before? What about any of the PF assemblers? Or the final inspection? So many opportunities for someone who sees hundreds of these on a regular basis to notice a glaring issues like that. It's actually a little disappointing.

Yeah. I am a pretty understanding guy and I still believe they will get things right for me. But it has been a sad experience. The excitement of buying my first LE game turned into worry before I even finished unboxing the game when the installer and I had to un-jam the T-rex. After that, I had all of 15 minutes of play on it when the other problems like missing parts and washers rolling down the playfield presented themselves -- causing days of down-time with my kids wondering when it would become playable. Not for anything, I'm at around the 2 week mark and I still don't actually have all of the parts that were supposed to be installed in the playfield (but they are on their way). From a consumer experience point of view, I've spent more time worrying about this purchase than I have enjoying it. And that's saying a lot since I'm not the kind of person to worry about stuff.

I don't know what Stern has in mind for a premium LE experience, but I'm sure they wouldn't have wanted it to go down like this.

It's pretty great. I wouldn't worry too much about the PF issues. It's probably just mine that's this bad

I think there is an acceptable range of precision with flipper angles/alignment, shooter rod strength, and other such things. I consider variations to be part of the challenge and adds to a unique game that makes it more interesting than the type of predictable gameplay you get with video games. And if anyone wants to tweak those settings, have at it!

Now if you are out of spec to the point where it negatively impacts the game... Then I think your in the "fixing a problem" area.

Where did you very the coin door plastics?

My new JPLE has virtually no dimples despite some pretty heavy air balls.

Dont get me wrong, it does have some dimples. But it is markedly better than my original Star Trek. Paint issues aside, it seems more resistant than others I've seen (like just about every Star Wars I've encountered).

If it helps, I get around 100% with mine and it is slightly askew to the angle of the ramp. I adjusted the setting to get it almost perfect with the ramp, but then I noticed a few balls were rejected that might have made it before I played with the menu settings. I can't tell if it was some off shots or if I made it worse. I set it back to the way it was, and it plays great. I also found that a slight lowering of flipper power helped as well.

My height is set much lower than yours. I did not see an adjustment for height, but there is a test for it. I believe the height adjustment is made mechanically while you are in test mode under the settings. I know it can seem a bit overwhelming to dig in that deeply into a new game, but it may not prove to be too difficult.

For anyone following along on the issues with my playfield, there is an update.

Two senior people at Stern reached out to me over the last week or so after hearing about the issues and seeing the pictures. They are sending a new, populated PF to my distributor who will swap it out for me. Everyone was extremely kind to me throughout the process. It should take about a week or so to arrive. I wanted to thank everyone here as well for your counsel and support. Knowing what I might expect (and should ask for) was very helpful.

Where is the list being kept?

Looking good. There may be a typo for 290

Mine "throws" it. It is more of a random drop than a violent throw. And it bounces off some stuff before landing anywhere, so it doesn't really just crater into the PF. I think it was well thought out and I like the way it adds to the gameplay.

I think jaws was the internal code name for this pin.

I think the iconic green and yellow jeep was the tourist one that got stepped on, and the tan and red one in the game is the staff jeep that comes and rescues them and escapes the chasing Trex. The game takes some liberty there.

I had all these mod plans. Then I got the game. It's as close to perfect as any game I've seen.

Sorry to hear that. Do you have any pictures of the mech where it's damaged? I'd be curious to see what the weakest link was, in your case. It might be a good place for everyone to monitor.

I already have my LE and I'm still eagerly awaiting the production and delivery of the premiums. I can't wait to hear from all those people when they find out how good this game really is.

Mine hits around the top left bumper usually. I would always suggest checking the level, (side-to-side in the fron and in the rear, as well as front-to-back) before making a mechanical adjustment like that.

What method did you use to paint the wireforms?

It came out great. I didn't know you could powder coat over chrome. Gives me some ideas.

I am amazed to see this much attention-to-detail in pre 1.0 code. It's already the best code I've played, and it keeps getting steadily better.

So much yes.

A soft hit to the right orbit or spinner could put the ball in the pop bumpers area which might get to the target within the 5 seconds.

I don't think there is an alternate version from Stern without the lights. I'm sure you'll be fine.

I couldn't find it on LSoG website. Do you have a link?

Does it just need a better polish? If you put the rod end in a drill and get some good car buffing compound, you could probably clean up any imperfections pretty easily.