(Topic ID: 248218)

Welcome To The Jurassic Park Prem/LE Club!!

By EightBallTexas

1 year ago

Topic Stats

  • 6,660 posts
  • 567 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 minutes ago by EightBallTexas
  • Topic is favorited by 262 Pinsiders


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Topic poll

“What is the first MOD you will buy??”

  • Toppers 59 votes
  • New Jeep 51 votes
  • Plastic Characters 18 votes

(128 votes)

This poll has been closed.

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Topic index (key posts)

12 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #622 KME posts on TREX adjustments. Posted by sk8ball (1 year ago)

Post #885 More info on aligning the TREX. Posted by pickleric (1 year ago)

Post #1396 Shooter fix Posted by Chambahz (1 year ago)

Post #1619 read before dismantling the raptor Posted by timlah79 (1 year ago)

Post #1830 KME gives info on how to adjust the T-Rex. Posted by sk8ball (1 year ago)

Post #2358 TREX Adjustment info Posted by imagamejunky (1 year ago)

Post #2625 Adjusting the raptor pit. Posted by yancy (1 year ago)

Post #2994 How to Remove TREX Head and also fix Jaw Screw that came out/loose Posted by f3honda4me (1 year ago)

Post #3326 Amber Bonus rules and details Posted by fooflighter (1 year ago)

Post #3417 Fix for Orbit optical sensors not registering shots Posted by caker137 (1 year ago)

Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#372 1 year ago

October can't come soon enough!!!

1 week later
#650 1 year ago
Quoted from evh347:

For those of you wondering if the MezelMods Raptor Pit mod will fit the LE....it does not appear to fit correctly right now.
The back pair of fence posts contact the raptor toy and impede its movement (w/ or w/o the included aluminum fence wires). Also, the left raptor pen mod does not quite match up with the screw in the plastic.
I've got a support request in w/ Kristin right now.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Thanks for posting this, I really want this mod, but my Premium is on order... Hope they can adjust it to fit the Prem/LE versions

#666 1 year ago

Were they scratches or buffer wheel marks that can be buffed out with some blitz wax? Pics would help

#685 1 year ago
Quoted from flashburn:

Here's some pics of the scratches. In the photos it's really only noticeable near the reflection of my light, but in person it's noticeable all the time. I've already reached out to my distro who is going to speak with Stern about it. To me it seems like they didn't allow enough time for the clear to cure.

Yeah, good going through the distributor...that looks odd...definitely has a radial look to it, almost as if the final buffing happened with either too much pressure or heat buildup and/or debris on the wheel and started cutting into the clear...for an LE that should definitely be remedied by Stern I would think.

Was this NIB also or was it a showroom model?

#686 1 year ago
Quoted from delt31:

so premium buyers - what side blades are you going with? Or are you going mirror? I can't decide. I think the LE blades are really nice (not LE price diff nice but nice) so I was looking at these
EDIT - I went with the one above. It's basically the same. Borderline theft haha

I went with these https://www.tiltgraphicsinc.com/product-page/jurassic-park-stern-gameblades

They really complete the caged world under glass look I wanted!

#824 1 year ago
Quoted from hocuslocus:

I have the same exact thing going on with a beatles I just bought with zero games played. it's on both sides though, one much worse then the other.
I've overlooked other playfield defects, but got with my dealer and stern on this one. I'm not holding my breath but you never know.
Guess it's time to remove the artwork from the apron area now


#825 1 year ago

Gawd this has me on the fence... I've got a great distributor and have a deposit in on a JP Premium, but these issues seem to be really piling on... I'm new to the hobby with 6 months of playing and purchased a now perfect (small wiring issue initially) SW Premium NIB Feb 19 build and no issues after putting over 3000 games in it (yeah) I'm addicted and SW games can be short ... But man o man,... I want to support Stern and keep the order in, but would just love to hear something from them official to quell the fires and put my mind at ease.... It seems everytime I login to pinside, I see a new horror show

#830 1 year ago


#939 1 year ago
Quoted from Green-Machine:

I’m still hearing that I have about two weeks before I see my Premium. What are other Premium buyers hearing as of late?

Just talked to my distributor Saturday. They start shipping the second week of October, there was a week delay to get the Elvira's in production.

#1042 1 year ago
Quoted from hawkmoon77:

Jeez. The list keeps growing with this playfield. Missing parts, wall overtightened and cutting into playfield, peeled paint, helicopter hitting the ramp, and now the wrong insert?
Is there a fix for this? Would an orange/red bulb help? I'm not sure what to do.
[quoted image]

Man, with all your issues, you should be guaranteed a populated playfield swap.. What has your distributor said about this?

#1044 1 year ago
Quoted from hawkmoon77:

Jeez. The list keeps growing with this playfield. Missing parts, wall overtightened and cutting into playfield, peeled paint, helicopter hitting the ramp, and now the wrong insert?
Is there a fix for this? Would an orange/red bulb help? I'm not sure what to do.
[quoted image]

Look back one page on this thread on page 20... https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/20#post-5235583

Looks like TheGunnett has the same color insert you do... Wonder if it was an assembly issue that day with a particular installer?
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#1050 1 year ago
Quoted from DerGoetz:

C'mon guys, you know the drill.
Unless it is a widespread problem it will not be fixed, but if you ask real nice you may get red nail polish for your white insert...

When my SW had the left Outlane/Inland rollover switches mixed up, Pat Powers wanted all the details to take it into a meeting so they could isolate the source of the error... So hopefully reporting issues like this traces back to the offending QC breakdown...

It seems with so many opportunities to catch these mistakes, there is some obvious rushing and overall lack of attention to detail... Granted it is probably a thankless job, but they definitely need to tighten up the holes in their inspection process

#1056 1 year ago
Quoted from hawkmoon77:

Yeah. I am a pretty understanding guy and I still believe they will get things right for me. But it has been a sad experience. The excitement of buying my first LE game turned into worry before I even finished unboxing the game when the installer and I had to un-jam the T-rex. After that, I had all of 15 minutes of play on it when the other problems like missing parts and washers rolling down the playfield presented themselves -- causing days of down-time with my kids wondering when it would become playable. Not for anything, I'm at around the 2 week mark and I still don't actually have all of the parts that were supposed to be installed in the playfield (but they are on their way). From a consumer experience point of view, I've spent more time worrying about this purchase than I have enjoying it. And that's saying a lot since I'm not the kind of person to worry about stuff.
I don't know what Stern has in mind for a premium LE experience, but I'm sure they wouldn't have wanted it to go down like this.

I really hope they expedite your situation and make you whole. Really sucks that the experience has been plagued with so many problems and from your posts, you have been more than patient and understanding, far more than most people would be. I think in the end, a new populated playfield will be arriving for you with so many documented issues... Fingers crossed. I do know how you feel though, my fist pin ever NIB had about 2 months of issues and trying to track down overcurrents and shorting GI lighting. In the end, Stern and my distributor came through and now the experience has been one more of education rather than frustration looking back. Still not fun while it was happening though.

#1240 1 year ago

Just got a call from my distributor. They cut production way back on the Premium's for the first batch run in October. I was number one in the cue but I let my position slide to the second run which is slated to go in Mid November to help another Pinsider out who is local to the distributor.

#1294 1 year ago
Quoted from Peanuts:

From Johnny Crap's Instagrame page. Premiums on the line ?
[quoted image]

Love it, love it... Best art package IMHO... Black and Orange highlights... Just a few more weeks

#1442 1 year ago
Quoted from timlah79:

Has anyone noticed a mis-alignment on the drill holes of certain drop targets? The tightest one on mine is definitely cut wrong. See the product photo vs where mine is. No way to adjust this without drilling new holes in the playfield AFAIK which I am not going to do.
First pic is mine, second is an official product photo.[quoted image][quoted image]

Your holes look the same, I think it's the art removal giving the illusion... As j-freeze said, you should just be able to adjust your target leaning

1 week later
#1660 1 year ago

Distro just called, I paid my final payment, JP Premium on the way... Can't wait until next week!!!


Mezel Cage
Mezel Tower
Shooter rod
Art blades from Tilt graphics
Brite buttons
HD Glass
Speaker caution overlays
Flipper toppers

#1757 1 year ago
Quoted from Ccondo:

Went to play a quick game this morning before work and in addition to my T Rex jaw not working, 1/2 the GI and the third flipper weren’t working. What the hell?! Now I’m just frustrated and disappointed. I’ll be calling Stern this afternoon.

First thing I'd do for the lights is check for an over current in the system menu. It may be a short on a Node Board preventing an over current and the 3rd flipper is tied to the same board the GI string is on. Not looking at the manual so just a guess. Had this happen to my Star Wars when I first got it... Aside from a pinched GI light under the flipper housing, I also had a super small piece of copper or some metal shaving that was in one of the GI sockets...took me a month to find it as it would short the socket only once in a while with the right vibration. Get a small vacuum and clean out each GI socket on the string and pull and reset each bulb...I would start there before really performing any major surgery.

#1760 1 year ago
Quoted from EightBallTexas:

We also installed the new plastic sliders, its just so smooth and no loud noises anymore pushing the play-field over the hump. Always made me a little nervous on how you had to give it a jerk to go over..... Problem solved.

I only have one pin at home (for the next week anyways), a NIB SW Premium, the slide rails have a smooth rail that goes all the way back to the blocks with no bump, nice and smooth...Did they go back to the old bump style on the latest Sterns? I really like the factory smoothness on the SW. Got a NIB JP Premium on the way.

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#1762 1 year ago
Quoted from Ccondo:

Found my GI/flipper problem. Shaker motor must have shaken my Pinstadium light free and the cord fell in between the right flipper switch rendering it all useless. Easy fix. Now on to the T. rex jaw.

Glad you got it worked out

#1820 1 year ago
Quoted from delt31:

For the guys who got their premium machine already can you list the distributor as I'm curious.

Hemispheres, great experience. This is my second one from them! Kurt and Mark are great guys...Would have been here this coming Monday but I had to delay the delivery due to being out of town

#2118 1 year ago

Just got mine set up... I have to take apart my pins to get them up my curved staircase so it's an all day affair... Added some mods, some more still in the way... But man oh man, such a sweet game... Finally got it running and let my daughters have a go... They were blown away... The TREX is a huge hit... catches every ball we shoot at it!!! Everything is perfect, playfield, cabinet, and my God, the premium art work is amazing.. love love love the translite in person... This one's never leaving!!!
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#2137 1 year ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

That shooter rod looks awesome....is it lite? Looks like theres LED's on the shooter plate?

Yes, there are 2 LED's that project from the shooter plate just behind the rod. They hook up to the CN15 pinout on the Cab sideboard and all the cables are provided. They also include a shooter brace plate with special cutouts to route the wires through...Love it!!!

#2169 1 year ago

Hey all, just curious, why on a new pin like JP, the playfield sliders have the bump when pushing it back into the cabinet yet older pin like my Star Wars Premium has a smooth slide system...I'm fairly new to the hobby so excuse if this is common knowledge...I just hate that bump, feel like i'm damaging something every time i slide it back

#2172 1 year ago
Quoted from AUKraut:

Your SW Premium had that bump as well from the factory, sounds like the slider got replaced with a bumpless version at some time....

I don't think so, I bought it new in box from the distributor 5 months ago and this is the sticker on the playfield
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#2175 1 year ago
Quoted from AUKraut:

Wow!! That's new to me, I've never seen that before! My SW Premium I bought when they first came out had the normal Stern bumpy sliders.

Yeah, SW was my first NIB so it feels like a step backwards going to the bump push on the newer JP...they must have their reasons for it, although I'm not sure what it could be...It may have something to do with clearances in the back of the playfield

#2267 1 year ago
Quoted from hawkmoon77:

Sort of hard to see in a photo. But there are a few misaligned things on both sides it seems.
[quoted image]
Rear screw not aligned.
[quoted image]
Doesn't sit flush.
[quoted image]
Unnecessary bore hole in back. If light and ramp support are aligned, it sticks out too far. Also, it doesn't quite fit into the ramp support.

Here's mine, I can see what your saying about the hole not being flush, but I think that is a function of providing clearance for the wireform bracket attach point, I think it fits well enough so I'm leaving mine.

I gotta say too, I love how the TiltGraphics art blades look on this game, the wires are busted at the exact correct position near the raptor pen
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#2277 1 year ago

I'm like you guys, always been fascinated with the world under glass but somehow forgot about pinball and moved on... As a kid the best Christmas I ever had was getting a Coleco pinball machine which was mostly particle board plastic and metal but still a full functioning standup machine... I still remember that gift as the best ever.. it was the equivalent of ralphie's red Ryder BB gun.. anyway now at 46 years old, I rediscovered Pinball in part thanks to Jersey Jack coming out with the WOZ... I've always been a gamer and when I saw the huge LCD come out on that thing it piqued my interest again and brought me back into that world I really fell in love with at 7 years old. Anyways now that I finally have the space, I got my first new in box Star Wars premium 5 months ago... Just added Jurassic Park premium... but maxed out what I could fit into the game room with a pool table... Just convinced the wife to convert one of the rooms to a future pinball only room... So I'm looking at a total of 8 possible pins able to hold given my current space... Really love this hobby now.. enjoy the tinkering, cleaning, modding, and playing.. thanks to this site for being here too lot's of great people willing to share information and help out... Going to the Houston arcade expo in a couple weeks... Flashback 2 years ago and it's amazing I wasn't doing any of this.... Good times!!!

here's that coleco pinball machine I was talking about found a retro commercial

#2280 1 year ago
Quoted from EightBallTexas:

I just had a flash back with the BB gun part of your story. That was huge. 8 machines...I can help you spend that money..HAHA. Are you going to be buying
Are you gong to the Houston show in a few weeks?

Yeah I'm going to the Houston show on the 16th.. as for the room I have to still convert it probably next year so it will give me time to space out my purchases over time and not make any rush decisions

#2281 1 year ago
Quoted from GamerRick:

That’s exactly how I feel. When I got my Deadpool I was afraid to even raise the playfield. Only did so once in the first four months of ownership. Had to when I added Pinstadiums. Slowly got comfortable “working under the hood.” I heavily mod all my machines now. I don’t like the cheap 2D plastics so I replace all of them to the extent there are mods out there. I love that there are people who stand up and make mods even individuals like Delt with their amazing effort to make the games even greater. Now I’m comfortable with doing just about anything except major disassemblies at this point.

yeah I had The misfortune of having an overcurrent happened on my Star Wars when I first got it, and I got a first-hand initiation into wiring and soldering, but my distributor and Pat Powers at Stern and another Stern employee on this site help me get it sorted out... I even had to take it apart to get it upstairs and remove the playfield and back box... It helps to remember that it's just mechanical and electronics that can either be fixed or replaced and nothing is really broken just temporarily inoperative. the bad part is it made me realize just how crappy a lot of the routed machines actually are... I like to keep mine pristine clean and fully working and I look at some of those beat up limited's on the routs and feel bad for them.. I don't have the expertise to do a full shop breakdown and refurbishment of used pins so taking on one of those projects would be a completely new experience... I'll stick to new in box for now

#2309 1 year ago

Hey all wonder if you could help me out here on my JP Premium...As I have been installing mods, I've been opening the coin door, entering the Service Menu and I'm getting this screen..I checked trough Receiver and Transmitter optos, unscrewed and rescrewed, reset the plugs and everything appears normal and gameplay seems unaffected...Could this be the 48v Coindoor Interlock interfering with the optos and I'm just opening it up before the optos have a chance to register

I've tried clearing it which it seems to do and I've also ignored it and it seems to go away...

Little help would be appreciated, Thank you!!
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#2367 1 year ago

How often would you all say you get plunges that go up the halfpipe and don't brick out and turn into a short plunge, in both auto and manual?

It seems that sometimes the ball takes a slight left curve and bashes into the left side just outside the halfpipe and fails to complete the wireform return

I'm using the new Amber shooter rod and I'd say about 85% of the time I'm getting a full plunge into the wireform, the auto, maybe 90%..is this normal would you say compared to what you guys are seeing?

Thanks everyone

#2373 1 year ago
Quoted from imagamejunky:

This is my one complaint with this pin so far. I'm having a hell of a time getting the ball to consistently make it up that vertical 180.

I wonder if tweaking the shooter rod to either side would help the ball travel, if there's the slightest bit of english on it, it seems it can go careening off the left of the jump before it hits the 180..

I did boost my auto plunge power to 210, that seems to make a big difference

#2378 1 year ago

Thanks everyone! I did something different just before I read this fork fix and so far I'd say about 97% hit the 180 now...Here's what I did

Was standing next to my pool table and had an idea...

First off I backed off all three shooter rod screws and then hand tightened until just snug, then I aligned the tip directly to the center of the ball, then gave the screw on the left (standing in playing position) a slight turn to just barely offset the shooter tip to the left (I mean very slight, again looking from the playing position) then hand tightened all three in a pattern keeping the slight offset. Now the ball still travels straight when plunged right down the center, but there is a slight english to it causing a little spin to the right and keeping it in line up the 180...

To the eye the shooter rod looks perfectly straight but on the ball contact you can see it just kisses the left side a little


#2379 1 year ago

Finally... messing around all day today on my day off getting this pin dialed in...Leveled everything and set 6.5 deg incline...Adjusted helical wireform on the one attachment post to pull the exit point closer to the orbit wall - now the ball exits cleanly to make the combo shots for days...Adjusted all 3 flippers with the rubber even to the to the lane guides with a straightedge (this made a huge difference, especially on the upper flipper and I immediately started making my shots and getting some serious combos, up until then it was a clunkfest)..one game in and I posted an 873+ mil score...Love this game...every successful shot now feels like I'm blowing up the Death Star on SW Prem.

#2383 1 year ago
Quoted from GamerRick:

My post just below my upper right flipper is not flush with where the flipper should rest. Is yours like that? And are you saying that you moved your flipper to line up with that post even if it looks like it might be off a little from straight and that helped your shots? I am having a hard time getting it past on either side of the flipper cleanly.

I think it's probably easier to show in a pic, basically, it's the reverse of the main flippers and the alignment hole is actually at the top of the flipper rather than the bottom on my mains.

I just use a guitar fret straightedge and place it right on the orbit return and bring the top of the rubber right to it

Quoted from GamerRick:

Also my pin flows excellent speed wise except the upper center gate once it goes through that it almost always crawls to the right of the half orbit that starts at the middle gate with the trex sticker on it. I’ve got the bubble level to the top of the first line not centered. I figured that would speed it up but I’m wondering if it actually did the reverse. This is the only speed issue I’d like to address on the flow of the whole pin.

I don't rely on the bubble straight from the factory without adjustment

I use my phone and Pinball leveler on the playfield to get 6.5 deg after calibrating it on my pool table which is level..

I then adjust the bubble on the machine to center so that I know its a true 6.5 deg.

6.5 seems to keep the speed around the orbits nice and fast...

The shot you mention through the spinner is a little slower than the upper flipper feeding the left orbit but it varies, sometimes it rips around, other times it drops into the pops, I think it just varies on which flipper gets it through the spinner gate

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#2386 1 year ago

Also, this is a comparison of the machine Keith Elwin was using in his rules video and mine, both overhead

This was not how mine came from Stern, the flipper bats were all centered to the alignment holes

sidebyside (resized).png
#2413 1 year ago

Anyone have issue with the ball getting stuck just past the Spinner at the one way gate? It seems like a chokehold point and if my ball is going slow around the left orbit, it can get hung up there occasionally...Any suggestions?

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#2415 1 year ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

Anyone have issue with the ball getting stuck just past the Spinner at the one way gate? It seems like a chokehold point and if my ball is going slow around the left orbit, it can get hung up there occasionally...Any suggestions?[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Okay, that was a pain but solved it! Just leaving this here in case anyone else encounters it.. Looked at the Stern playfield for reference...there is a slight rise in the gate compared to mine which was lower and not allowing the ball to get under it on a slow roll from the left orbit causing it to hang... I'm guessing the intention is to

1. Act as a one way gate through the spinner
2. Divert slow rolls from the right orbit back into the pops
3. Allow slow rolls from the left to slide across the fence and into the pops
4. On the off chance (which is very rare but I've had it happen twice today) it hangs on the geometry, lifting my gate to match the stern version allows the ball to roll back through the spinner in reverse...which is where it was going anyways once the ball search kicked in and dislodged it...

I've tried watching gameplay vids but haven't seen my issue pop up

I just pulled up gently to align the gate where it looks approximate with the Stern version...did multiple slow and fast rolls from all directions, no more hanging

I think this is a satisfactory fix, not sure if it's what was intended but it seems to work well now


gatestern (resized).JPG


mygate (resized).JPG

#2431 1 year ago
Quoted from SheriffBarclay:

Switch 38 (Raptor Pen Top) throwing an error, anyone have this?

Quoted from tacreno:

Mine used to show this although everything works fine. I upgraded code and i haven't seen it since.

I get that occasionally as well as ball trough check messages for usually trough 4 and 5...The appear to be out of service in the system menu and i reset them but even before I do that, they still work

I contacted my distributor and he hadn't seen the error

Chas at Stern emailed me this response:

Check the trough switches using CLR test in diagnostics. If all the switches work normally then the game is ok. The software cannot always tell if a switch is bad, it is alerting you to check the switch using diagnostics.

Then I asked:

I just wondered if during a game , opening the door and the 48v interlock could mess up the normal function and cause these erroneous error messages?

Like switch checks when they are really okay

Chas responded:

Yes, any time the coin door is opened power is removed from the node boards.

So I asked (am awaiting a response):

So I should just ignore these check switch error messages?

Testing them and checking removes them but they come back, just seems strange the error keeps surfacing

I'll post a followup when I hear back.

Gotta say, Stern always responds to my questions very quickly...Great customer support from Chas!!!!

#2433 1 year ago
Quoted from hawkmoon77:

Your side rail looks to be twisted inward. I had a similar situation on mine in another spot that was a result of overtightening. I backed up a few turns on the lock nut and the side-wall sprung back into it's preferred shape. From those pictures, I'd expect the side wall to follow slightly behind the curve of the plastic. Mine protruded until I backed off on that screw.


Looked from a top down view and the side wall is aligned with the curve of the plastic, loosened the screw but there is no where for the wall to go...it looks fine from above, the game is playing fast now every since I made that gate adjustment, no longer handing on a stuck gate...Thanks for looking at it anyways hawk


Oh great eyes! Totally missed that!...I'll give it a shot and see if I can get that aligned better

I think GamerRick was asking about shots dribbling around the back, this may be something for him to look at as well

Appreciate the help

#2441 1 year ago
Quoted from EightBallTexas:

What would make my top right flipper just stop working?? I have had zero issues until today. Everything else seems to work . HMM
What's the best test that I need to do in the menu to check?
Any ideas??

Also check the leaf spring in the flipper just to be sure of the contacts and wiring since it's a staged flipper

#2452 1 year ago
Quoted from EightBallTexas:

Ahhhhh...dumb question......how do adjust???
I bet it happened when i installed the brite buttons..left side is fine...

That's was my next question was,... if you have the Brite button, you can only use one plastic washer otherwise it interferes with the staged spring function...a little electrical tape can hide the extra glare

#2453 1 year ago
Quoted from PDX-Mike:

My machine has also had this code show up along with one other switch error message. Both switches work fine though....

Is it the trough #4 switch???

I just got this from Chas after 4 email exchanges..

Thanks, If the switch checks good, most likely this is a software problem



If you guys email Stern also via their support website, they might be able to trend this error and fix it in the upcoming code update... It's more annoying than anything and has never affected gameplay for me

#2475 1 year ago
Quoted from Munsters:

Wow that white light on the left is to bright Is there already a mod for this? Enough space to put something on it.[quoted image]

Yes..ULEK has a control room plastic...I put it on and then put the existing clear acrylic over it (although it's not necessary), just needed a couple longer screws... Love how it looks... I'll post a shot in a little while

#2485 1 year ago
Quoted from EightBallTexas:

I am putting ' Birdie " on the back plastic shrubbery area and yes with a black screw to blend it. The LED strip really makes that area come alive.
It's too dark without it.

I was going to do the same, I think it will look pretty cool with the standoffs sort of a 3d effect

#2505 1 year ago
Quoted from EightBallTexas:

Okay I am on it.
I need a favor...newbie/dummy me cant figure out why this piece is needed for the raptor pit. The 2 Pieces lay over the existing plastic perfectly.
What am I missing?[quoted image]

It is needed for the Raptor tower clearance on the left side, the original one won't fit correctly with the mod

#2507 1 year ago
Quoted from EightBallTexas:

Look for me in Houston, I am driving down Friday and will stay at same hotel as the show. Let's Party!!!!

I'm an old fart, don't feel like it but 47 next week ...

Bringing my daughter to the show so no partying for me lol

#2508 1 year ago
Quoted from EightBallTexas:

So this replaces that one ?
Thanks .

That piece was included in the Raptor tower mod not the pit

If you overlay them, there is a slight amount of clearance on the Mezel acrylic for the left side of the mod which goes all the way to the playfield unlike the original

#2516 1 year ago

I've also found that removing the washer in the raptor leg and playing with the degrees of tightness on the screw eliminates the raptor from getting stuck in the faceplant position...seems the washer actually did more harm than good

Also, tightening the weighted washer weight too much allows the screw to just clip the acrylic protector..

Letting a little slack and the looseness of the washer weights, actually helps to bring the raptor make to standing position rather than a tight cylinder

#2517 1 year ago
Quoted from estrader:

Any hints on how to tighten the post by the upper right flipper without taking the flipper mech off from underneath?

Mine was loose from the get go... Tightened it once and it has not loosened since
I used a flat wrench to hold the nut in place...I had one left over from over the years...looks like a cheap thing you get from an ikea assembly but it works
20191109_095301 (resized).jpg20191109_095307 (resized).jpg

#2522 1 year ago
Quoted from EightBallTexas:

Okay I am not such a dummy. When I unboxed/ unwrapped both pieces I swear it was in the pit bubble wrap not the tower wrap and that's why I was so confused.
Going to go install it now and then move onto the Tower and I am all done with MODS. #Done #Overit #putaforkin #nomoremods
French brew Coffee here I come.

Ha! There's always one more mod

I really wish there was a little computer terminal mod near the control panel...maybe even a real screen like in Batman..I would throw good money at that

#2529 1 year ago
Quoted from atrainn:

Have they addressed the loose upper flipper post in the newer models? I'm debating picking up a premium in the next couple of weeks, but wanted to wait for that and the pf issues to be resolved.

Mine was loose when I got it as well as some other posts but once the lock nut was tightened and 500 plays later, it's all still tight...

I just think they are rushing a little on the line to get them out and some of the QC needs to be brought up a little but it's been nothing serious on my Premium

#2542 1 year ago

Got some new Titan rubbers!!!! Love these

#2543 1 year ago

Gratuitous Premium Pin Porn

#2564 1 year ago
Quoted from GamerRick:

So I’m going to try to adjust my flipper. I hope I don’t mess up the gap. Thanks to those that helped with that issue. I’ll post results once it’s done. May not get to it today, playing with my son and taking him to a movie. I’m divorced so we have lots of fun father son time.

First thing, take a couple reference pics of the assembly before you start

It's literally one allen screw holding the flipper post...But keep a credit card under the flipper as you adjust (it's .7mm and will keep the proper flipper spacing from the playfield as you adjust)

Just loosen it just enough to be able to apply some pressure and turn the flipper bat...

I use a small straightedge to keep the flipper aligned to the guide rail.

The tricky part is the tightening and not damaging the flipper return spring...use a T_allen wrench or at least and allen wrench you can get a grip on - you really need to tighten the screw again more than you think as not enough and the coil force of the plunger will move the flipper bat out of position with a couple flips...after you adjust, check your alignment again with a straightedge and your clearance

Make sure to keep the hinge that the return spring attaches to in line with assembly, I use a small wood dowel rod to brace the hinge while I'm tightening so it won't move (not too high or too low - this will ensure proper return from the spring and no resistance to the bushing)

Also, may sure you have a very small gap under the playfield between the clamp and the bushing or else you'll get squeaking ...You should have a very slight amount of upward travel on the flipper, check your other ones for reference

It's not hard, you'll figure it out...just takes doing it a couple times

I destroyed my return spring on my Star Wars the first time I tried so you may consider ordering some from Pinball Life in advance

Happy Flipping

#2565 1 year ago

This is a small straightedge I have for my guitar and it works perfectly for pinball

The pic is larger than it is, I think it is 2x4 inches

Very accurate edge C&C milled and perfectly flat

amazon.com link »
81w+JedRViL._AC_SL1500_ (resized).jpg

#2600 1 year ago
Quoted from Phillyaudio:

Mine also shows the same? Do you have any solution?
Or waiting for the next Update?

I get that and ball trough check switch messages..usually Number 4 but also 3 and 5 occasionally, clearing them just brings them back later

I would encourage you to write to Stern on their support site, I know Chas is aware but the more people they hear this from, the better...I wish there was a bug reporting submission/ticket site similar to what video game companies have

As far as the error, it doesn't affect gameplay at all...from what I can tell, the 48 v interlock killing power to the node boards when the coin door is opened is causing the software...that was my guess and Chas thought is was probably the case, but no confirmation they are working on it as a bug clear...I'm sure they've had to see i though...it's hard not to miss

#2607 1 year ago
Quoted from GamerRick:

Found this at the bottom of my right inlane yesterday. It’s a thin piece like an insulator that you find behind some switches. No idea where it came from. Anyone know?[quoted image]

Have you done the Raptor tower mod? (I think you did, but I'm too lazy to search lol ) That looks like the insulator for the flasher shining on the TREX that was located in the original tower

#2608 1 year ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

Does the bug.report@sternpinball e-mail address work or actually go anywhere? I sent a couple emails to it about a month ago for possible Jurassic Park bugs but I have no idea if they’re even read by anyone. I figured there’d at least be an automatic reply acknowledging they got it, but no response at all. It felt like the emails just went into a black hole so I stopped sending any more.

That I'm not sure of...I just sent direct to Chas but that email couldn't hurt I guess

#2609 1 year ago

Had to switch back to original Red Flipper Rubber...loved the look of the Competition Silicone Titans, but they were too dead on dead flips and I couldn't do a post pass or get up the C and S lanes to save my life with them on...Back to the Red's and I'm post passing and shooting no problem...bummer...That silicone orange was sweet

#2615 1 year ago
Quoted from EightBallTexas:

NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO. Please come back. It's not the flippers- it's you!!!! haha

Ha ha! I thought so..but I played with the glass off..Titans, dead and back spin on ball, rubbers post pass no problem, back to titans same technique fail

I even kept one titan on the right and a rubber on the left and could only post pass with the rubber

#2617 1 year ago
Quoted from EightBallTexas:

All you need is SKILL. I will show you in Houston at the show. HAHA

So seriously you have no issues? What's your playfield angle...mines right at 6.5

#2626 1 year ago

Nice work, sorry having to do that but I learned something...thanks for posting Yancy

#2669 1 year ago
Quoted from GamerRick:

Thanks. Speaking of which that flasher is not working now. Was going to check the wires next time I raise the playfield. Could this falling out prevent the flasher from working or cause a short? Where does it go lol? Thanks!

It is most definitely the wires, as I had to take off the plastic behind the tower to get all the wires through the hole in the playfield...so it is a tight fit...I bet it's most likely just a loose connection

That piece simply goes between the flasher and the roof to prevent any shorts since there was a metal bridge supporting the original ... you probably don't need it on the mod but I put it there just as a heat (not that there is any) / protective barrier

#2670 1 year ago
Quoted from pickleric:

Anyone else getting balls stuck in the gate by the spinner?[quoted image][quoted image]

I had this, just pulled up on the fence bridge ever so slightly to allow the ball to contact more of the underside of the one way gate...now if it slow rolls there it drops underneath the gate back down the spinner lane...which is where the ball search sent it anyways

#2688 1 year ago
Quoted from Halfwasted:

I find the flippers too strong.
Are people adjusting the flipper power and to what numbers?

Compared to my Star Wars Premium...I think they are weak, but that may be the black flipper rubber star wars uses. I tried boosting mine from the 235 on the right to 255 but it seems like lower is better, so I went back to defaults...I am still having a bitch of a time hitting the Helipad and the C shot is not far behind...those 2 shots are harder than the Star Wars Death shot to me

Guess I just have to Play Better

#2694 1 year ago
Quoted from EightBallTexas:

What setting do I find the flipper adjustments? I dont mess with those much.

It's in the adjustment/feature adjustments... Then scroll left with minus button to flipper 208, 209, 210 for left right and up respectively

#2695 1 year ago

Okay noodling around some more I decided to go ahead and completely start over on the flipper alignment...

I loosened up both ball guides and set them to what looked like a neutral position

Next, I went ahead and realigned the flippers with the top of the rubber edge in line with the ball guides using a straight edge

This brought the bottom of the flipper bats to be just in line with the pin holes on the playfield

I reset all the forces to factory default on the flipper power

Started up a game and bam...making all my shots again C Lane S lane...

So if you're having trouble might be an option for some of you go back to scratch and recalibrate
20191113_183436 (resized).jpg

#2696 1 year ago

I think the... "why would Nedry do this ?"call out... Is fast becoming the new "okay... who brought the dog?"

That line has to change in final code... I'd rather not hear it at all than hear old man Jenkins rattle on...

#2711 1 year ago

Anyone try black flipper rubber on the premium or le? I know the red is softer, but they ship the pro with black and I'm kinda used to the hardness of my SW with black rubber... you think this is because of the raptor cage and Trex (ie rejects/damage) or simply looks

#2712 1 year ago
Quoted from hawkmoon77:

I'm working on mod'd audio. Do you have any suggestions of what to replace it with?

Man that's a tough one..have to think about it

#2715 1 year ago
Quoted from Phillyaudio:

I raised it down to 200... with 235-255 i had many problems:
Two balls came out often...
In the Elvira thread, Many people damged the shooter lane with 255. an update fixed it down...
So if you don‘t have a shooter lane protector, take care...

I think your talking about the trough ejector, they were talking about the actual flipper coil strength setting 208-210

By the way, I have mine turned down on my machines to 176 with no issues

#2716 1 year ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

I think your talking about the trough ejector, they were talking about the actual flipper coil strength setting #208-210 in the adjustment menu
By the way, I have mine turned down on my machines to 176 with no issues

#2718 1 year ago
Quoted from AUKraut:

Is it just me, but it seems like Jurassic Park code updates are coming out a little slower than recent Stern pins. Don't get me wrong, the pin released in better shape code wise than many past Stern releases. It just seems there hasn't been any movement forward in a while, especially when we saw a DeadFlip stream a few weeks back where they were showing off some unreleased code.

Keith Elwin posted on tiltforums November 6th

"Shooting for one giant update. Not sure when"

#2746 1 year ago

Those of you with rejected TREX balls.. have any of you tried black rubber flippers instead of the grippier softer red rubber..I think the black tends to put less spin on the ball which may be contributing to the rejects...just a theory..I've had a couple rejects with red...as I've gone to black I've had 0...plus the gameplay feels faster and my shots are more accurate...For whatever reason, the Prem and LE ship with Red rubber while the pro has black (not sure if it was purely aesthetic or on purpose for the mechs on the non pro's)...just throwing a simple fix out there before people start shifting the TREX head around etc...

#2786 1 year ago
Quoted from GamerRick:

My raptor keeps getting stuck in the down position. Gets hung up under the acrylic on the left side. Got sick of it and wasn’t able to adjust the raptor to avoid. I bent the wire from the Mezelmods raptor pen in a U shape under the left arm and that seems to prevent it from going down far enough to get stuck. Good temporary fix. Would still like to fix by adjusting the raptor.
[quoted image][quoted image]

I took the raptor apart and removed the washer that is in the leg spacer, it was allowing smooth travel but wasn't allowing the raptor hinge pin inside the leg to hit the stop point. It's a simple fix, just take the screw out of the Raptor's hind area, take out the washer, put it back together and done..not sure why the washer is in there as it doesn't seem to need it... also you may want to loosen the screw holding the washer weights together, for one, it provides a little better clearance for the plastic and the end of the screw and 2. it allows the washers to have a little slack to them and not be as rigid under the plastic and allows for some more randomness of the weight distribution to help the tail of the Raptor come back down...this is what I've found and what works for me

#2788 1 year ago
Quoted from GamerRick:

So it’s just the screw behind the raptor? You don’t have to take it off or all apart? Does the washer easily fall after removing the screw? Don’t want to lose it. And where are the weights to adjust? Thanks!

It's the one that goes straight through the hip with the lock nut on the other side...I just hold a strong magnet nearby whenever I'm pulling apart pieces like that if I miss and don't catch it..The screw comes out and the Raptor top body comes right off with a slight twist...you'll see a washer on one side inside the assembly...just reattach the body rescrew

The other screw though the tail is just an eyeball loosening with the washer weights

#2789 1 year ago

Talked to Mike Vinikour today at the Houston Arcade Expo...he answered 2 questions that had been bugging me with my Premium... definitely designed with RED rubber for the flippers and 7.0 for the play field angle...I was messing with black rubber to try and compensate for the wrong play field angle I set it up at

Time to readjust...I had mine at 6.5 per the manual but he said Keith designed it with 7.0 in mind. I was having trouble with my helipad shot and the ones at the expo seemed to shoot much easier

Super nice guy and gave a great presentation.

My daughter "challenged" him to a game of Jurassic Park and he comped her a T-shirt! We both had a blast!


Got it dialed in...7.0 works amazing now.. Can hit all the shots now and there is so much more flow!!!

20191116_194723 (resized).jpg

#2796 1 year ago
Quoted from GamerRick:

Okay that is just a great idea! Can’t believe I never thought of placing a magnet down first. I only used one after I lost a piece to pull out a piece once I found it. Sometimes I can use a small magnetic wand to find a lost metal piece. Instead of that, placing a magnet down before unscrewing could really help. Sometimes it’s the simplest things that you never even think of. Do you think this will work well or is there a better design you would recommend:
amazon.com link »

That should work great!

#2906 1 year ago
Quoted from GamerRick:

Hard to get good info on what incline angle works best. Anyone who finds an ideal angle please post for us!

This was my problem at first..I spoke to Mike Vinikour from Stern at the Houston Arcade Expo... He said Keith designed it for 7.0 in mind and to set it to 7 to enjoy the game as it was meant to be played (man was he right)...I originally had it at 6.5 (according to the manual)... No go... Helipad was way way too hard to make... I also aligned the tip of the flipper bats for the left and right flippers dead on to the guide holes and not the ball guides (it came from the factory like this but I changed it to Steve Ritchie style at first... Again nope) .. The upper one, I tweaked with the bat loosened while I eyeball and adjusted with a ball at various speeds to just the point where a ball coming down the right orbit guide just kisses the post to prevent SDTM drains, this puts the flipper rubber just to the right of the guide hole and the flipper just offset off the post pointing into the helipad lane shot.. The game plays amazing now...I can finally stop worrying about tweaking and just play.

#2908 1 year ago
Quoted from GamerRick:

I’m very excited, I got my stuck raptor issue fixed, loose post under upper flipper tightened and my misaligned upper flipper properly adjusted tonight! I had a local tech that I found come over. He also fixed my escape lane gate on my Star Wars and my busted LCD screen. Now all my pins have no issues!! Time to play!!! My Star Wars works fully for the first time since I got it. The raptor fix took by far the longest, and we broke the Mezel Mods raptor tower railing but great to have everything working. Played two games and much easier to make it up the helipad ramp.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

That upper flipper is off alignment on purpose from the factory to prevent SDTM drains off the orbit...I thought it wierd at first too and adjusted mine like you have it in the pictures, but chaos multiball turns into a drain fest...I eyeballed it back to just have the post just kiss the balls off the orbit and it sends them into the left sling/flipper area nice and safe...

Most of the promo pics and vids on the overhead also have it aligned offset

#2912 1 year ago
Quoted from GamerRick:

Well we worried it might do other things so if you look it’s slightly left of the post just in case. Tried rolling balls off and hitting them past it a bunch of times before leaving where it is. I did not have any drain issues because of the change so far. It works great up the helipad lane and so far great up the lane to the left of the post. Missed chaos by one letter so didn’t have that yet. But not sure why one Multiball would drain more than another and it was great during trex and raptor MB. If it ends up being off he showed me how to adjust it. I’m happy right now so don’t rain on my parade just yet lol. I’ll update everyone if it turns out to be a mistake. However it was so horrible getting up the helipad that I hardly could ever get chaos going because I could never get the S letter.

Ha, sorry yeah every machine is different...I just know on mine when it was set like yours, I would brick the tower shot way more, especially when I got a double orbit going super fast and then try to hit the raptor tower.... Also couldn't hold the flipper in the correct position to let the ball bounce back up the o Lane on a counter clockwise orbit... Saw this a couple times on the deadflip/elwin rules video

I think making the helipad had more to do with the left flipper alignment than the slight rubber in the s Lane from the upper flipper for me anyways...

The problem with chaos is when you get 6 balls going and then launch a couple past the spinner, so now your concentrating on the other balls and the ones you sent up the playfield soon make a beeline down the orbit straight down the drain if your not super quick on the upper flipper.. Changed the gameplay for the worse

There is a podcast out there as someone mentioned on pinside (I haven't heard it so I can't quote the source) where they heard Keith talking about the post position playing a dual role, to guard the flipper and also prevent SDTM's... If anyone knows which podcast, I'd appreciate knowing

Anyways, whatever works and makes it fun for you... Don't want to screw up your game if it's working great for you... I'm just super OCD and always try to get things to their intended designed positions and go from there.. But finding those positions isn't always the easiest...

#2913 1 year ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

I don’t understand why Stern can’t just tell people that it is designed for a 7.0 pitch. What would be the harm in stating something like that if it is actually true?

It could be an old standard...Steve Ritchie swears by 6.5 like in Star Wars..as do some other designers.. So maybe it's just some new innovation going against the old standards... Not many are going to deep dive into the user manual anyways and find pitch numbers and most operators seem to disregard the bubble level and and crank the back legs up anyways to get the most coin...

But you're correct, it would be beneficial to the home collector or self admitted OCD types like myself to know the "real" design numbers...

#2968 1 year ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

It’s just the standard mods most ppl are doing. Will have to search the pictures to see what folks are doing with the pteranodon after removing it for the sign cover..
While I was at it I discovered the lock nut for the velociraptor hips/legs had fallen off. Found it in the cabinet and re-installed. Also found a very small screw and washer that I'm not sure where they came from. I'm sure I will find out at some point. The lock nut holding the support string on the speaker panel had also fallen off. It was stuck to the speaker magnet. Re-installed.
Should have taken the pics with the glass removed but forgot. Gets dirty quick because one of my cats like to jump on it and walk all over it lol.
My inclinometer thingamabob arrives today so I will set the angle to 7 degrees on the weekend. Hope it makes shots a bit more consistent.. If I trap the ball on the left flipper there is currently no way to make the helipad shot. Not enough power. Only way to make it is to have the ball roll down the inlane then make the shot. Flipper power set at default (255 I think?)... Ordered coil stops in case that's the problem or becomes the problem..
Upper right flipper is set almost centered on the alignment hole which means the ball doesn't hit the post on the way down from the orbit. It doesn't drain STDM (hits the middle of the right flipper - albeit FAST) but that setup makes my orbit and tower shots from the upper flipper more consistent. Will play this way for a while.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Just noticed in your pic you are developing a rub spot at the same point I had (on a thinner clear, no art around post Premium), the guide rail was torqued too tight and it started digging into the playfield and dare I say it (bubbling the clear slightly) I took a heat gun in 3 second passes and it layed down immediately...I let it cool, cleaned and waxed the area, loosened the two nuts under the playfield to give clearance to insert some mylar (this was a bitch and took multiple attempts) under the rail and then screwed the rail back down just hand tight...so far so good.

I can't figure out why there isn't some sort of clearance system built into rails...all it takes is too much torque and playfield rubbing and clear issues are sure to happen
pressure (resized).JPG

#2969 1 year ago

Here mine is post fix...you can see the silhouette of the rectangular piece of mylar under the rail that lies parallel to the factory installed piece

#2970 1 year ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Well, to you - ha!
I have no knowledge of the apparent obsession this has become as I just had a pinball friend PM me about it. However, with minimal effort I'll be able to design something simple and cheap that many will like (then maybe those obsessing can get on with life).
If anyone is shamed now, but still really wants to help then you can PM me with the measurements and I'll maintain your anonymity. Alternately, you could just sack-up and post here in the open thread and let the chips fall where they may.
Downvote as necessary.

What about a simple plug in type mod that you can insert into the screwhole...something 3d printed possibly like a siren or loudspeaker array
L_C_HRc (resized).jpgalarm-siren-pneumatic-high-performance-siren-computer (resized).jpg

#2972 1 year ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

First thing I did when I got my machine (before playing a ball) was back off the ball guide screw at the entrance to the left orbit to put a fraction of space between it and the playfield and I also put fabric washers at the apron screw holes. The ball guide on that left orbit was already cutting into the playfield without a ball having been played yet. The manufacturers really should put washers under those spots or leave them a fraction above the surface to keep the edges of the guides and aprons from cutting like a knife into the playfield.

Funny, I saw your post a while back, so I checked on mine at the time.. low and behold, I didn't even have a washer or lock nut on mine...I thought it was rolling out weird... Had already scraped the underneath of the plastic by the Raptor cage..

Totally agree, or just design a better system, there's no reason those guides needs to hug the playfield so tight...

I could never be a used buyer, too many inherited issues that if not caught right away could multiply down the road... At least with NIB I can catch and correctly fix things on the fly

#2981 1 year ago

Found a perfect place for all 4 signs!

Unobstructed view and within context of playfield.

Here's a shot from the player perspective

20191122_201730 (resized).jpg
#2984 1 year ago
Quoted from GamerRick:

OK I’ve played about 20 games with the flipper adjustment and it’s playing fabulous. I have no trouble making the tower shot or the left orbit, in fact it’s much easier than it was before. I’m also making the helipad shot much more frequently and I can also make the right orbit shot easier. So the adjustment for me has only helped. I’m still using factory rubbers. No drain problem so far with the flipper adjustment. After reading several of your experiences with this especially yours fooflighter, I’m starting to think it’s a combination of the differences pin to pin, how the flippers are, what rubbers are used, what playfield slope is at. So hard for one setting to work for someone else. But for me the flipper adjustment was fantastic. My slope is probably at least 7.0 right now. I’ll check that next time I hav the glass off. Just got a new inclinometer. Loving this game! Thanks for the help everyone.

That's great GamerRick, it's tough to nail down on this pin for sure as you've said there are a lot of variables at play...The shot array is really complex and I've noticed the slightest change here or there can affect the outcome of multiple things all over the playfield...I would say as long as it's working, I wouldn't change a thing on your end...Sometimes I think they have a layout at the factory, do the C&C cuts and dimples, but being handmade it's sometimes measure with a micrometer and cut with an axe. So If everything is working and the shots are flowing properly, I would say you have it dialed in. I would say the slope for me has been the best adjustment for the overall "shotmaking" ability. I am also at 7.0 at the flippers and my playfield has a slight .1-.2 rise towards the back...

#2995 1 year ago
Quoted from EightBallTexas:

TREX sign doesn't get hit by chaos MB? I tired mine up there.

No issues, even during Rampage

#3040 1 year ago
Quoted from Rob_G:

A few thoughts on JP after owning it for few weeks now:
- The action button is under utilized in the game. I hope there's more use for it to come....
- It's too bad there isn't a lock and hold feature on the T-Rex mouth. Either during multiball for extended/additional playfield multiplier or part of another mode. Something like the snake on Metallica... I realize that there's no equivalent on the pro so maybe they don't want to split the gameplay features too much.
- Super spinner could really use some lighting effect at the spinner.
- Pteradon attack is one mode that always seems to start and I don't know it's running for some reason.
- Could use an option to disable smart missile during multiball. I'm not sure I like this, but I understand the additional strategy and difficulty.
- There could be fanfare for making combos..

I heard Keith say he doesn't like Action buttons all too well..
Agree on the spinner lighting
Pteranodon always catches me by surprise too..hoping for some new call outs that signal it besides the light
Hope some new call outs give clarification to the countdown timers...The "your running out of time"...in 5...4...3...2..1...could use a little spiffing up...maybe address the specific timer that is expiring...Sometimes I get lost and just too busy to look and the LCD and check which one is expiring

#3073 1 year ago
Quoted from EightBallTexas:

I have a issue folks.
My power connector is somehow bent to power the shooter rod . Can I bend those back gently? or can I get a adapter from the rod connector to my 8 way splitter nearby with 3 open slots for power?
Thanks.[quoted image]

Get a pair of small needle nose and bend them back, won't hurt anything, just don't keep bending them back and forth to get them perfectly straight as that will weaken them, they just have to be able to insert into the adapter, not perfect

PS do this with the game unplugged

#3075 1 year ago
Quoted from EightBallTexas:

I was a little timid but did what you said...life will find a way...LOL.
All is good.

Awesome! Glad to hear!

#3179 1 year ago

Man I love this game... The ambiance is just perfect under the glass

Screenshot_20191128-235302_Photos (resized).jpg
#3180 1 year ago
Quoted from MANTO1975:

what scores are everyone getting?

My highest was 835 million but only once... Then 453... Then it's downhill from there, into the 2's and 300's and then a real crap game in the 25 million range them back into the 100's... I'm all over the place

#3187 1 year ago
Quoted from GamerRick:

I did this, didn’t fix anything about the volume changes. In fact I think it was already at 8 when I checked. Sound is definitely much lower quality it’s got to be something they changed cannot figure it out. But I do know that this didn’t fix it.

Hmmm..haven't noticed a thing different in sound..actually hearing more sound effects now and volume is where I've always set it...you could always load up the previous version and then back to the current and do a recording compare.

No difference in shaker either as I have my shaker weights offset at 135 deg to tone down the vibration , and also have shaker tape on the glass

#3222 1 year ago
Quoted from timlah79:

Sorry to bring some negativity into the thread but I'm looking for advice. I've had a ton of problems with my LE since day one. Literally every problem others have mentioned and more. Only ones I haven't had is any issues with the helicopter or playfield. The short list is T-rex (everything), bad node board, plunger, flipper coil stop, raptor, set trap targets, flipper rubber wear. My distributor has sent a tech out twice and I've had Stern ship me parts as issues have been discovered (no charge). However I've spent countless hours of my own time dismantling, taking videos, testing, coordinating with the tech's schedule etc along with having to not play the machine between each failure just to get the aforementioned service at each step. Also to this day the T-rex and shooter issues remain unresolved and my right flipper is broken until they send new parts (which throughout this process has taken almost 2 weeks with constant email back and forth).
So my question is, am I at a point to reasonably ask for a partial refund of the original purchase price from my distributor (based on the fact I've had to work on the machine, take time off work, etc more than actually play it for the past 3 months)? Or is this just how it is and I should be grateful for the service thus far?
Appreciate any advice/similar experiences you guys have to share.

The Trex and node board would be frustrating for sure and definitely warranty issues...but what exactly is wrong with the plunger? Springs and screws here and there and some alignment adjustment?.. coil stops and flipper rubber, I buy those in small bulk as they wear out...JP was designed with red rubber in mind for the collector, most pins don't have the red because of the quick wear rate of red vs black and cleanliness issues. What's up with the raptor? and set trap targets?? again, I had some minor tweaks but they were just loosening a screw or tightening a screw here and there to adjust the raptor bob rate hang up issues or tighten up the leaf spring screws to prevent target movement? I'm not disregarding your complaints but I've tweaked and taken the past 3 weeks to adjust and dial my game in...I think or have come to expect it is just part of the hobby as these machines are hand made on the assembly line and can't possibly meet the same standard each and every time..they can come close, but there's always going to be the need to tighten, loosen, adjust and sometimes replace. Everyone's threshold for "it play's perfect out of the box" is subjective and one person's "perfect" may be horrible to another and sometimes this site while great, may falsely lead people to the impression that these games are plug and play..my experience is they are far from it.

I actually love tinkering on my pins...call it an OCD obsession but don't stop playing them for issues and definitely don't take off work...I just play, tweak, fix, replace....and one day.. they get better to the point of just needing a wipedown and some wax...If you don't like doing these things and just like to play, then NIB is probably not for you in future pin acquisitions and may need a more, broken in game.

So, I can't nor can others answer your question truthfully or objectively because your experience with your pin is a subjective one...are you out of line to ask for a refund...man that's a tough one...you can ask but again, it's up to your distro and Stern support. I would say good luck with that but wouldn't expect it to happen.

Again, I'm not saying we shouldn't expect quality and reasonable functionality out of the box for the price tag, but something like a flipper coil stop??? I would get a new part from pinball life or marco (which ship most of their stuff the day of order) on my own and buy 6 more while I was at it - while I waited for the warranty part to arrive - and just continue to play...

#3305 1 year ago

Finally done modding!

Tilt graphic blades
TG Flipper toppers
TG Decals for ramps and sides
Mezel raptor tower
Mezel electric fence
Mezel raptor pit
Mezel plastic protectors
Mezel sign covers
Ulek laser cut sign posts and control room plastic
Amber shooter
Custom apron cards
HD Glass
Shaker motor
LED Flipper buttons

Done!! (For now?? )

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#3317 1 year ago
Quoted from delt31:

I know the code updated it but it makes no sense to me what the flashing means. Seems you feel the same....

It parallels/mimics the Amber target Insert in the pops. It starts off a slow pulse on the plunge and then turns off if the target is not lit, then if lit ... rapidly pulses and matches the insert until the Amber target through the pops is hit and the insert extinguishes... and so on. I like the feature since the insert is in the backfield, I can immediately see that the insert is lit in my peripheral vision down at the shooter rod

#3318 1 year ago


#3325 1 year ago

From Tiltforums:

Current Or Former World Pinball Champion

Mosty because amber slings has a massive bug lol. Enjoy it now

#3326 1 year ago
Quoted from f3honda4me:

Is there a post somewhere explaining the amber modes and how to get them etc?

Again copied from Tiltforums:

(they have an entire Wiki for the new .95 code)

Amber Bonus

The bumpers build your Amber Bonus throughout the entire game. Collect the Amber Bonus at the lit pops standup, which is lit by going through the rollover above the pops. Collecting the Amber Bonus does not reset it – it will relight and continue growing from the prior collected value. Capturing Dinos provides a one-time multiplier to your next Amber Bonus collect. If you capture multiple Dinos between Amber Bonus collects, then the captured Dino Amber multipliers stack.

Completing Fossil Set 3 will add a 10x multiplier to the next Amber Bonus.

Amber Frenzy: Each Super Supply Drop awards an Amber Frenzy for a given number of seconds, where you can collect your Amber Bonus by making certain shots.

Amber Pops: 20 seconds
Amber Targets: 30 seconds
Amber Slings: 40 seconds
Amber Ramps: 50 seconds

#3359 1 year ago
Quoted from toddw:

Does anyone know of a way to protect this damaged spot? I do have it protected with mylar but it's continuing to rip the mylar.[quoted image]

If that were mine, i would use a dremel and do a very careful sanding and light removal of the damaged clear, then use a finer sanding wheel to taper the damage spot out to the undamaged areas...next use multiple coats, probably 3 or 4 of automotive clear touchup to rebuild the area, allowing at least a day or more between coats, do a light finish sand, and then use a small cloth dremel wheel with some polishing compound to buff & shine up...

Masking off and cover protecting the rest of the playfield from dust and contaminants of course

I would also take the apron off to give more work area clearance

Turn down the shooter eject to 176 and rewax and remylar

#3363 1 year ago
Quoted from Indusguys:

When I make a fast shot to the Trex ramp it is not registering. The opto is working but not registering really fast shots. The opto looks like it is aligned properly, anything else to check? These are shots when Trex is up out of the way.

I had that when I first got mine occasionally...I loosened the screws on the opto switches... Repositioned them a little to what I thought looked centered on the holes, tightened as I held the switch in that position and haven't had a shot not register since

#3395 1 year ago

Love mine, the smoothness and build quality are laps and bounds above the standard rod... I'm spoiled for all future pins... Had to get the storm trooper for my Star Wars... Equally great quality

#3434 1 year ago

Do yourself a favor and replace your factory coilstops. Over time I've noticed it harder and harder to make the C and S shots...then noticed a little fluttering in the flippers...lift up the playfield and dust all over..

Don't know who the supplier is but the Stern factory coil stop supplier sucks.

Replaced mine with some Pinball Life ones and it's like a different game...making the shots again with ease.

About 1500 games in

The clean one is the pinball life one obviously
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#3465 1 year ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

Drilled the pteranodon in the butt.

Another thing you just don't hear everyday

#3485 1 year ago

Okay, couldn't resist... One more mod... pteranodon above the helix

I hate stuff that clutters or makes you lose the ball or cover lanes, but this one fits perfectly... Nothing obscured from the player perspective and it's rock solid, doesn't move or vibrate at all. Total cost $12 dollars for the pteranodon, the 2 wire lugs, wire, and screw.

The attachment method I used allows you to pose in any angle or config you can dream up... Mine is dive bombing the truck!

#3487 1 year ago
Quoted from delt31:

looks good where did you buy it? Link for the items?

amazon.com link »

The hardware was Home Depot...

2 lugs (Burndy #14 - #8 Str), one sign holder wire (found in address sign area), cut and bent to fit, this was heavy duty stuff and took some force to cut and bend but holds shape extremely well, and 1 #8 -32 x 5/8 screw and nut

Drilled a hole and screwed right through back, nut just fit with a little compression
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#3493 1 year ago
Quoted from J-Freeze:

I had a pteranadon left over from my DEJP and that's exactly how I was going to mount it, I love how the wings span the ramp and it doesnt block anything.
Looks great, nice job!

Thanks J... Now that I view the game with the pteranodon there, I feels like it always belonged there...I asked my wife to come look at it and tell me what she thought I added.. Took her a while (which was funny) but once she saw it, she said she thought it was always there and looked fitting for the scene...

#3499 1 year ago
Quoted from GamerRick:

Just had a washer drop out from somewhere near the TRex during TRex multiball. Cannot for the life of me find where it came from. Don’t see any missing screws and the places I know there are washers that size aren’t missing one. Assuming a screw had to fall out also but just can’t find it. Anyone have any ideas where it may have come from?
[quoted image]

Have you checked all the metal habitrail connection points?

Post a couple top down views of your playfield...a couple extra eyes looking can help, but it's really hard to narrow down not looking at the machine in person

#3513 1 year ago
Quoted from snaroff:

Understood, but only one of the 4 screws really concerns me. The left raptor tower screw (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/68#post-5335068) is unfortunately drilled pretty far off the guide and most likely to impact a shot from the upper right flipper.
fwiw, I just tried a flat head screw and it didn't work (caused the metal flap to bend). There may be a screw that works better, but I don't have one (and I have quite a few to fiddle with). It's possible that the right screw is enough to hold it in place (with some mylar on the left side?).
There is no doubt this is largely psychological...that's why it isn't a big deal. Nevertheless, 97% of the stuff we "shoot the shit" about on Pinside is psychological...like shooter lane beauty and PF dimples

Okay you got me thinking..I haven't pulled these screws out, I'm guessing they are short wood screws and don't go all the way through the playfield.

These or something similar may fit...don't have the countersunk v wedge of a flathead and don't require modifying the metal but may have just enough clearance height amazon.com link »

#3515 1 year ago
Quoted from Green-Machine:

Maybe a low profile screw head. It doesn’t require a countersink[quoted image]

That's exactly what I was looking for.. Wonder about size comparison

Looks like the keyword to search for would-be pancake head screw

#3565 1 year ago
Quoted from Indusguys:

My captive ball popped off today during a game, anyone else have this happen?

I think for fear of over torquing things from the factory in light of the pooling clear issues, I had a lot of loose screws and bolts on my machine...

Here's what I did in the dialing in process:

1. Put fiber washers under all ball guide pressure points near secure bolts
2. Hand tightened all loose screws and attachments, especially on raptor cage, captive ball, upper flipper post and used blue loctite where necessary
3. Replaced all coilstops
4. Cleaned, buffed, and rewaxed playfield numerous times to get shine...arrived sort of dull from factory mostly impart due to thinner clearcoat...I even took a dremel with a cloth bufferwheel and very light amounts of Novus 2 (yeah I know...) followed by numerous thin coats of Blitzwax (some areas I found react better by hand buffing, yes actual finger and hand as opposed to applicator or cloth) to some areas that had small scratches (not recommended if you don't have experience with these as you you easily damage your playfield)...now the whole thing shines like glass
5. Straightened some ball guides as they were ether over torqued or just plain bent slightly
6. Mylared small areas where wear would be apparent down the road

So yeah, lot's of little tweaks..

I love it though, part of my OCD hobby fix...Some people may not and only like playing vs fix/tweaking...but I like to look at mine and see perfection but then play the heck out of them...so always tweaking/cleaning/fixing

#3572 1 year ago
Quoted from GamerRick:

It’s a shame that we have to do any of this. For $9,000 per unit, you would think they would be able to figure out how to make a playfield stay together until the crap is played out of it. Falling apart where no ball has ever hit is just pathetic.

Yeah but the 7500 cost on my premium is not because that's what it's worth in parts and labor, it's what the market dictates... I think Pinball as a hobby will always be one of routine mx balanced with play.. The home market emphasis now has more people analyzing the machines under ideal lighting and conditions vs dingy bars and beer soaked glass.. So naturally we expect more... I'm with you, i'd like to see the quality control standards improve with the home market shift, but I'm not expecting miracles... It still is a ball bearing flying around wood crashing into plastic and metal.. Stuff is gonna break...I really would welcome a shift to more hardy materials..I think time will tell and new companies pushing boundaries is always a good thing... I'm hoping Deeproot comes through with their promise of playfield durability.. Maybe clear coat issues will be a thing of the past in 5 years

#3573 1 year ago
Quoted from GamerRick:

no but I’ve also been wondering how soon both of those balls should be replaced. They take hard hits all the time and obviously get dinged up just like the other balls. Don’t we need to replace these relatively often as well or won’t they start marking up the bottom of the playfield and prematurely damaging the other balls ?

But they're taking hits from blunt force, same material - rounded surfaces... Not the edge of a guide rail, the lip of a ramp, etc.. So I think their damage is minimal if any... If you inspect your play balls regularly, there shouldn't be any negative transfer of damage to the Newton balls, as long as your play balls don't have scars and burrs... There's always a chance, but I'd say it's very remote... You could always take them off and buff them and wax

1 week later
#3675 1 year ago
Quoted from ShineSpark:

Hadn't thought of fiddling with the outlanes. I'll give it a try. Thanks for that!
And yes, Neil, I will try and play better. GIT GUD as I said, but I do think I need to fuss a bit more simply because there are aspects to the feel of the table as it currently stands that are making life more difficult for me. A steeper angle I think will actually benefit me, looking at footage online it appears as though streamers have the ball coming back at them at a greater speed than on my machine, I know that's more challenging but it seems to be that it will make for easier control of the ball. The number of centre drains I've had because I'm desperately trying to control bounce is pretty high.

I personally spoke to Mike Vinikour at the Houston Arcade Expo recently..I asked him directly about the playfield angle. He said it was designed for and plays best at 7.0

I got home, set mine to 7.0, ignored the bubble level and have been happy ever since

#3702 1 year ago
Quoted from cooked71:

Anyone aware of a fix from Stern for this obvious ball trap?
[quoted image]
Edit: going to try a bigger rubber on the post to the left.

Never had a ball hang there in 1900 games but you could put down a 3M button on the plastic, might have to experiement on size

amazon.com link »

#3712 1 year ago
Quoted from jalpert:

I’ve had balls hang there, just not that often.
You can adjust the position of the one way gate. Adjusted correctly it should prevent hangups but it can reduce the effectiveness of the shot.

I think you have his ball position mixed up with the another post, his is sitting ON the plastic near the spinner, not at the apex of the rail and one way gate

#3725 1 year ago
Quoted from Yoderboy:

Like I said pretty minor just hoping it doesn’t crack I will just monitor for now[quoted image][quoted image]

A little blast from a heat gun, a very (very) small drop of water thin superglue, and a fiber washer under the guide mount would fix that up in an instant. I did it with mine and it looks factory new....

you don't even need the glue really, just helps rebond the clear...just snip a small wedge out of the washer to get around the post and just hand tighten enough to compress the washer slightly...you'll now have proper clearance which won't rub the playfield in the future... just a couple 3 second passes of the gun is all that it takes on the raised clear

#3737 1 year ago
Quoted from Spectreman:

I recently notice this issue, myself. Trex fails to grab the ball in the first mode about half the time. I have no problems for the other Trex modes.

It's not necessarily failing to grab the ball..the first trex mode (multiball) is triggered by the optos and not from the Trex actually catching the ball...there are other times where during other trex events, the ball gets to the same spot past the optos as the first multiball event and it doesn't trigger the mode...I personally wish all the events were triggered only by the trex catching the ball

#3747 1 year ago
Quoted from Spectreman:

Ah, thanks for the information. Now the behavior I'm seeing makes sense. I wonder about the reasoning for this difference in triggering criteria. Perhaps they wanted the first Trex event to be easier to trigger?

I think that's it, just like they spot you the letters m and a for map right at the beginning...

1 week later
#3830 1 year ago
Quoted from Green-Machine:

Mine comes off the wire form and bounces from side to side and way out of reach of the upper flipper. Impossible to hit. Is this not the norm for others?

Loosen the metal post screw that holds the helix ramp (located to the left of the right metal ramp). Experiment with different positions for the helix bracket until you get a smooth transition off the wire form...you should be getting a smooth roll off from the ramp to the playfield the majority of the time.

#3833 1 year ago
Quoted from Green-Machine:

I’ll try a slo-mo video tonight. Maybe then I can see exactly how it’s coming off the wire form. Thanks guys! I was curious but not sure if that kind of reaction was normal

Something else I forgot to mention..Another thing to consider: is the table 7.0 deg front to back and also level left to right both at the top and bottom of the playfield (measured on the playfield and not the glass)...JP is extremely sensitive to shot geometry I've found and I would start there and then move to the wireform adjustment

Mine was doing that initially, bouncing back and forth between the wire guide and ball guide...for me just loosening the screw and pressing down lightly on the wireform exit then retightening was all the adjustment i needed...your mileage may vary

The slow motion vid is a good idea

#3890 1 year ago

Hey guys for the raptor.. unscrew the hip screw and take out the washer ..not really sure why it's in there to begin with because it's got a plastic guide that the body travels within.. when you re tighten hip screw just tighten it enough but not too much or you'll bind the body and legs together...also slightly loosen up the screw holding the stack of weights if they are tight not only will the screw end touch the plastic and hang up but the rigidness of the stack of weights doesn't allow the raptor free fall back into position... if you've got them slightly loose the randomness of their weight brings the raptor right back to the starting position... Worked for me and the raptor moves like it should 100% of the time now

#3952 1 year ago

Love the new Trex multiball start... The chewing on the ball effect with the sound is awesome!!!

#3956 1 year ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

I’ve got 6.9 pitch. Upper right flipper 216. Right flipper 229. Left 230.

Thanks for the info

#3957 1 year ago
Quoted from JediMcMuffin:

I will gladly give those same settings a try. I'm defaulted right now. Though I dare say depsite the changelog saying "default" for lower right is now 225, i had to set that manually.

I thought it was 235 not 225? Changed back in the .91 update, did they take it down further?

#3963 1 year ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

I played some again this evening and was still frustrated by the slight hop remaining in the transition to the left flipper from the ball guide. It looks like the issue is that the ball guide isn’t a fraction of an inch past the pivot end of the flipper like it is on the right. That hop away from the flipper is why I’ve had to dial down the right flipper power so much. Here are pictures of my right and left taken at identical angles. The guide from the right isn’t blocked by the flipper but the left just barely is. Doesn’t look like I can adjust the guide. Is it possible to adjust the flipper position a bit in the hole?[quoted image][quoted image]

You can adjust the guides slightly. Loosen all 4 screws in the guide and then while holding the guide in the desired position, test a couple ball rolls and when satisfied, retighten...it doesn't take much...

#3965 1 year ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

Is it my hearing or is there a new actor doing a bunch of the old call outs?

I heard him too on a bunch of callouts...It almost sounds like David Harbour (Hopper from Stranger Things)

#3966 1 year ago

The ball chewing is genious!!!! and perfectly synced with the vid and sound...My kids love it

#3969 1 year ago

Jesus!!! I think I play too much...I have an October build, got it in November and have over 2500 plays ...how do you guys resist hitting Start

#3972 1 year ago
Quoted from woody76:

I just got mine Sunday night at 9pm and probably got 100 and was out of town Monday in Orlando. I am glad I pulled the trigger on this one.

Ah gotcha, sorry I misread that! Have a blast...love this game

#3977 1 year ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

As the game says, "REMARKABLE!!!" Thank you so much!!! That did it for me. I was just barely able to get the probably 1/16" of play in the guide I needed and now the ball seamlessly transitions and rolls down the face of the flipper. I just tested it in game play too and, Scouts honor, my first two shots off the plunge were left ramp skill shot followed by S lane on the fly. Then just a couple shots later I did the same combo on the fly again. The ball hasn't had flow to that flipper and the S lane like that since the game was delivered. After I played the machine in Key West I knew mine was lacking on that shot and this got me there. This is really going to open up the game for me. Thank you again!!!

Oh that's awesome!! Glad it worked out!!! Have fun with the new smoothness

#4010 1 year ago
Quoted from Hadley:

What's the consensus on this? It's my first NIB and mine is looking more like a golf ball each day. Is this normal? Build date mid October.

My first NIB was a Star Wars premium.. I'll admit, when I first started playing it, the crazy speed and airballs were putting dimples everywhere... But I play the heck out of it and the dimples started to blend and disappear...I honestly don't notice then anymore and really have to look for them now, at just the right angle...Jurassic Park, same thing but much much smaller dimples (less clear probably helps) and seems to be blending in faster than star wars...I just keep my pins clean and waxed repeatedly and they look amazing... Mine are meant to be played first and appreciated second...

#4024 1 year ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Next issue... The raptor gate isn't flush with the pf, so balls are getting stuck there, and often I start games with a ball already in there.
Is there any way to adjust the height of the gate?

1st, check the two height adjustment screws under the gate under the playfield, they allow you to set the resting point when the gate is lowered...If the gate is not making contact with those...ie hanging up on the playfield hole, then see the below info...

There's a detailed post of this very thing by Yancy it has a detailed step by step with pics and instructions what to do...

A brief summary: Looks like the gate was physically hanging on the back edge and required some dremeling of the bracket hole to move the bracket into position

Here's the post:


#4026 1 year ago
Quoted from Jimmyhonda:

So, I see the raptor behind the raptor pen has a spring below it. Is that raptor supposed to move? Mine is just stationary. I don’t ever notice it moving. Am I missing something?? Thanks fellas.

It's not a spring, it's a bunch of weights on a screw post that weights the tail of the raptor down.

A ball hitting the plate in the raptor pit "punches" the plate under the tail and kicks the raptor forward then the weights help return it to the start position.

Try it with the glass off ( you should be able to move the Raptor by hand freely) and launch some balls into the pit by hand...you should see the raptor lunge forward...it's a quick lunge and needs the weight and speed of the ball to deflect the plate...it's all physical reaction, not a solenoid movement

If not...it make be stuck on the plastic ball deflector, or the Raptor hind leg screw/nut may be too tight preventing movement...I actually took the washer out of my Raptor leg assembly to help the Raptor move more easily (there's a post and groove track in the Raptors leg's the washer was allowing the post to come out of the track), and loosened the stack of weights screw on the tail to allow the random weight movement to assist the return travel and also prevent the tip of the rod holding the weights from getting stuck on the plastic...now it's super speedy

#4038 1 year ago
Quoted from snaroff:

Finally reached the "Visitor Center" after 300 games Tough shots/rules on this one...

Better than me...I have a couple thousand already, alot of those are from dialing the pin in but man tough game for sure... I'm a noob to the hobby this year but closest I've gotten was 4 captures, never made it past the Trex ...I just can't get through the paddocks... Get caught up in the side quests

#4044 1 year ago
Quoted from snaroff:

Tip...navigating the outer paddocks (which avoids the T-Rex paddock) makes it easier to get to the Visitor center.

I try that but maybe get to the 4th Paddock on either the left or right route...then insanity ensues and I get gobbled up in a TREX event, Control room, Raptor Multi...or something else that makes the palms sweat ...I've been so tempted to set to 4 balls but I'm resisting...trying to get better...I've already closed the outlanes as small as they will go

It just seems like my outlane drains are rockets without the ability to nudge in time...should I be nudging every sling hit?

#4048 1 year ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

Anyone recognize this from inside of the cabinet? It appears to be some sort of plastic spacer.[quoted image]

Looks like the spacer on the ball deflector guard near the Trex ramp

#4050 1 year ago
Quoted from snaroff:

I see. I closed the right outlane, but it hasn’t made much of a difference. Still plenty of right drains.
Sticking to 3-balls is right-minded...you can always add balls later if it improves your experience. Another approach is to avoid the non-paddock modes as much as possible.

Gotcha, thanks

#4075 1 year ago
Quoted from estrader:

I tried both and went back to rubber. Keith or someone mentioned the game was designed to be played at 7 degree angle with rubber on the flippers.
Reason I switched back was the difficulty in hitting some of the shots without rubber. Maybe it’s all in my mind but the “c” and “s” shot I hit more regularly with rubber.

Yeah that was me. I spoke with Mike Vinikour at Houston Arcade Expo. 7 degrees and red rubber. I've tried everything...probably the closest non rubber substitute on this game which didn't result in frustration for JP would be Superbands. ...Titans, Pinball Life, Black Rubber, Superbands...I love how the red rubbers play for JP but honestly hate how they blacken up and shred apart so quickly, especially on the tips with JP trying to hit the C and S lanes....some people say the Superbands are dead and don't allow dead flips etc...??? I've found the exact opposite but maybe they are being made with a new formula..I have no issue and found Superbands to be the best alternative if your looking for awesome translucent colors...and get tired of the cleaning of black marks and rubber bits. The hardness of the Superbands seems to provide a nice aiming ability and translates to nice flow. I found the Titans and PL to be nice but they get slippery on the tips after repeated play and I've found them difficult to make the C & S shots after a couple hours

#4153 1 year ago

I don't know how it could tell though in it's current state, would be more than a software update and would need more optos to track which flipper the ball left... If that could be done at all..

#4158 1 year ago
Quoted from RPZ:

Hi Guys, anyone else had this annoying bounce off right ramp (making impossible to get 3rd skill shot) ?
Any thoughts/ solutions?

First, make absolutely sure your at 7.0 deg playfield angle and that the playfield is level left to right on the entire surface of the playfield, not the glass... Then.. If that doesn't work..unscrew the front bracket screw for the helix ramp... With the glass off, position it in different spots.. And do ball rolls from the top of the ramp until you get a clean roll off.. It didn't take much manipulation with mine...I did move the exit end of the ramp slightly down and closer to the ball guide as well..

#4188 1 year ago
Quoted from iceman44:

I’ve got the beer iced down and several hours to play
I’m on a mission for Visitor Center!!!!
I get to the last paddock. Just a shitload of shots to make
Gotta dial in the sequencing

I played all day...started getting better when the beer started I am still aiming for the Visitor Center - haven't got there yet

So I got to the last paddock before the visitor center making a beeline on the right side path..Got Chaos Raptor Tri-Ball going, and 2 tiers of Chaos...by the time I reached the last paddock (for the first time) my heart was pumping, palms sweating...and then WHAM! Straight down the damn middle...I love this game...but sometimes I want to put my fist through the glass ...But I do know one thing...this game is making me a better player...I'll move over to Star Wars and I am calling my shots with ease ... oh well...gotta keep playing...I am on a mission to beat this thing on 3 ball setting but it might take me a year

#4189 1 year ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Anybody else getting the pock marks on their ramps flaps???[quoted image][quoted image]

Just a couple but honestly, to get the photo on the bottom, I had to get the camera angle and lighting just right or I couldn't see the marks at all (yes this is the same metal ramp flap photos taken seconds apart)...and don't see it from the player view when playing...It happened on my Star Wars from the Tie Fighter but over time it evened out smooth...I don't really care it doesn't affect gameplay at all...I just look at it as the normal wear and tear pins take..along with ball guides etc...I look at it as character that only get's better with time and use

#4190 1 year ago
Quoted from Jimmyhonda:

Anybody mess with lowering sling power? The side outs can be brutal.

I tried but then the game play seems gimped...I like the frenetic slings but they can be brutal in the Nedry lane especially...My fix was 7.0 deg playfield angle by the flippers which equals about 7.1-7.2 at the top of the playfield (using a calibrated electronic inclinometer) then bringing the outlane posts all the way down..It's still a bitch, but less a bitch and I don't feel like it's cheating at all...

#4198 1 year ago
Quoted from PinballZach:

My Premiums been playing great since I got it. But now my truck won’t completely turn when hit from either side and just gets stuck halfway until it knocks itself loose. Has any one had this problem and know a fix for it?

The truck assembly is very simple. Most likely just needs a cleaning...Just take a photo for reassembly..Just use an Allen wrench and loosen the lock screw holding the shaft under the playfield.. the entire truck will come out from the top..I used a dry cloth and some contact cleaner to clean the shaft and the bearing and washers... Key cleaning on the bearing...I used contact cleaner on a clean cloth and flat surface and rubbed the bearing around on both sides til good and shiny..Reassemble with the playfield up and just leave a tiny Gap .. You should have a little play when you pull up on the truck above the playfield... Make sure the metal flat disc piece that rotates within the switch is centered and doesn't bind on the switch assembly.. The build up of dirt was mostly coil dust...I didn't use any grease and it's spins lightning fast now. watch out using lubricant oils or grease as they will build up more Gunk over time and you'll wind up having to clean them sooner... If the truck is centered properly with some play gap, it doesn't need any grease to move... there is a small ball bearing sandwiched between the washers in the shaft assembly that does the job

#4214 1 year ago