Colgate, WI
I considered the LE for sure it was a tough choice!
Also FYI this will probably get locked. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-2-club-hold-on-to-your-butts#post-5118094
(Topic ID: 248218)
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Jurassic Park (Limited Edition)
Stern, 2019-
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Stern, 2019
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Quoted from rvdv:Ordered my Premium end of July
Still few more weeks before it supposed to ship.
Some people have premiums already
Is my Distro just slow or put me on the bottom of the pile ?
For what it’s worth, Zach at flip n out always gets pins out fast! Got my premium last week. The tilt topper is awesome too.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg 2 weeks later
Quoted from Pmaino:Well it took some time but another premium has finally landed and no damage during shipping. Big shout out to zmeny at Flip N Out Pinball for being amazing during this process. My original game was sent back to stern and was supposed to take weeks for them to fix the damage. When zmeny received more premiums he shipped me a new one right away. The game plays perfect out of the box.
Loving the game so far.[quoted image]
+1 for Zach! I buy all my NIB pins from him too.
Quoted from Ccondo:Quick update. I’m thrilled I was able to fix the T. rex myself. I was right, screw fell from jaw mech. All working great now.[quoted image][quoted image]
Are you able to remove the TREX cosmetic head/plastics without removing the whole mech assembly? I had this same screw fall out (no loctite from factory even though the parts diagram shows it should). And aside from literally removing the entire assembly front and back I'm trying to figure out how to actually get to the jaw assembly to put this screw back in.
Quoted from rkelley17:There isn’t an easy way to re-insert that screw without taking the whole mech out. It’s not that bad, though. 2 screws for the plastic that’s behind the T Rex head; Disconnect all wires (5, I think); then the 4 screws holding the mech to the backboard. Next, you need to remove the 3 screws In the bottom of the Rex jaw and remove the jaw piece from the mech. Then, remove the screw that is inside the roof of the Rex mouth so you can slide the Rex skin off of the mech enough to get access to the back of the Rex head to re-insert the missing screw; Finally, you have to hold the mech with the T Rex mouth pointed to the ceiling to get everything lined up properly to thread the screw. Insert the screw (use loctite!). Reassemble in reverse order.
Good luck! Let me know if I can help.
Thanks I wasn’t sure where to start. This helps I’ll try it tomorrow.
Quoted from rkelley17:There isn’t an easy way to re-insert that screw without taking the whole mech out. It’s not that bad, though. 2 screws for the plastic that’s behind the T Rex head; Disconnect all wires (5, I think); then the 4 screws holding the mech to the backboard. Next, you need to remove the 3 screws In the bottom of the Rex jaw and remove the jaw piece from the mech. Then, remove the screw that is inside the roof of the Rex mouth so you can slide the Rex skin off of the mech enough to get access to the back of the Rex head to re-insert the missing screw; Finally, you have to hold the mech with the T Rex mouth pointed to the ceiling to get everything lined up properly to thread the screw. Insert the screw (use loctite!). Reassemble in reverse order.
Good luck! Let me know if I can help.
I was able to fix the jaw not opening by putting the screw back in that had fallen out. Thanks for the help and here is a step by step with pictures for anyone else that has to do work on the TREX!
For my issue, the screw that was connected to the plunger coil came off and was in the bottom of the cabinet. Start by removing the plastic just behind the TREX, 2 screws.
IMG_4633 (resized).jpeg
Next, remove the 4 screws in the back holding this metal plate to the back board of the playfield.
IMG_4634 (resized).jpg
This will now give you the freedom to lift the TREX up and back. Be careful of the wires, but mine had a lot of play so it was easy and I didn't have to disconnect any wires. Lifting the head, there are 5 screws you can see on the underside. The 3 under the jaw will allow the jaw to be removed. Once that is done, open the jaw and remove the screw at the roof of the TREX mouth.
IMG_4635 (resized).jpg
Once that is done, you can work the TREX head forward. For what I had to do, I didn't need to remove the head entirely. It's snug, so you'll have to work at it a bit. You kind of have to angle it around the jaw mech and work it forward.
IMG_4636 (resized).jpg
Once I had it forward enough I was able to put the screw back in to the plunger on the jaw coil. Here you can see where the screw is missing and not back in place yet. USE BLUE LOCTITE!!!!
IMG_4637 (resized).jpg
Quoted from Attackfrommark:f3honda4me Thanks for these great detailed notes!! I never would have been able to figure this out otherwise. Question? I can't seem to get this screw to secure at all to the plunger coil. It never gets in the least bit tight. When I think I have it, I turn it upside down to get the head screwed on and it falls out again. It doesn't seem like it's really screwing into anything. Am I missing a piece? I know you said to use blue loctite but I would assume it would screw into this plunger coil without that and stay somewhat secure. Any ideas? THANKS!
It should screw in tight until it won’t turn anymore. It’s difficult to get the threading started. Once you do though the rest is easy. You’re probably just not getting the thread started.
Edit: glad you got it! Also thanks to rkelley17 who gave me the instructions I just added pics!
Quoted from delt31:Updating my code today. This is not the full blown custom sounds others are working on but an update to the lighter version I put together using the pinsound files available online that I cut/combined.
Has anyone come out with a sound update that includes more movie quotes and movie soundtracks?
Quoted from estrader:The three screws that hold the plastic on the bottom jaw of the trex fell out. Anyone have an easy way to screw these back in without removing the trex head?
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/60#post-5318928
I want to mark this as a key post, but wasn't exactly sure what it fixes. Orbit optos not registering?
Quoted from caker137:So the tape thing clearly works, but I was looking for a more permanent solution. Here's how a few washers can fix this and it's pretty easy.
[quoted image]First you can check your opto alignment with a ball in switch test mode (I used some magnets to position it into the beam). My ramp was fine (I had to lift the ball over 1/4" to get the beam to detect), but both of my orbit optos were able to "see" the beam with the ball raised only about a 1/16". If the ball is flying it may sail over the beam, or at the very least get de-bounced with the bottom of the ball only breaking the beam for a very short time.
[quoted image]
So you're looking for this bracket for each of the optos. Take loose the 2 1/4 hex screws and unplug and remove the opto assembly.
[quoted image]
There are 2 philips head screws holding each opto plastic to the metal bracket. You want to remove these screws and slide a washer onto both screws underneath each opto.
[quoted image]
I had a 0.060" thick #4 nylon washer that was perfect. You can see the optos sitting up a little higher on the bracket.
[quoted image]
Reinstall the opto into the game and you're all set. As you can see the LED is slightly higher in the hole.
This makes all the difference, and now my optos don't fail to trigger unless you raise the ball over 1/4" high off the playfield. I've not had any fast opto shots fail to trigger after this fix.
Enjoy!
Quoted from Green-Machine:Hmmm
Not sure about that topper
What aren’t you sure about exactly?
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