(Topic ID: 248218)

Welcome To The Jurassic Park Prem/LE Club!!

By EightBallTexas

11 months ago

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  • 5,648 posts
  • 481 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by timlah79
  • Topic is favorited by 233 Pinsiders


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“What is the first MOD you will buy??”

  • Toppers 59 votes
  • New Jeep 51 votes
  • Plastic Characters 18 votes

(128 votes)

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Topic index (key posts)

11 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #622 KME posts on TREX adjustments. Posted by sk8ball (9 months ago)

Post #885 More info on aligning the TREX. Posted by pickleric (9 months ago)

Post #1396 Shooter fix Posted by Chambahz (8 months ago)

Post #1619 read before dismantling the raptor Posted by timlah79 (8 months ago)

Post #1830 KME gives info on how to adjust the T-Rex. Posted by sk8ball (8 months ago)

Post #2358 TREX Adjustment info Posted by imagamejunky (8 months ago)

Post #2625 Adjusting the raptor pit. Posted by yancy (8 months ago)

Post #2994 How to Remove TREX Head and also fix Jaw Screw that came out/loose Posted by f3honda4me (7 months ago)

Post #3326 Amber Bonus rules and details Posted by fooflighter (7 months ago)

Post #3417 Fix for Orbit optical sensors not registering shots Posted by caker137 (7 months ago)

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#806 9 months ago
Quoted from hawkmoon77:

No. This is by the apron. The other area already has some paint removed, but I didn't make a big deal about it because it is mostly where you can't see it. I'm not a nit-picky guy, so I just ignored it. But this is kind of in your face.
My dealer had two boxes next to each other and asked which number I wanted. I guess I picked the wrong one.

Bummer that happened. Just my impression but it seems like this is a different issue than the pooling issue. This seems to be the ball guides and apron tightened to the playfield and then scraping it from vibrations with the ball, so it’s more like the guide and apron are cutting into it. Seems like they really should put washers under those spots to prevent that cutting. I just got mine today and adjusted the guides by the tower so there’s a slight gap now between them and the playfield. I also just put three small black fabric washers in each of the apron screws to lift the apron very slightly off the playfield to prevent that cutting. I used #8x.032 fabric washers I had on hand from experimenting with washers to use on my POTC. Now the apron isn’t contacting the playfield.

Thanks for posting yours. I had the ball guides on my radar to check but wouldn’t have thought of the apron. Here are pics of what I did at the apron.

6191FAD3-C534-4F36-8C83-D1C30994DD17 (resized).jpegEE6B7545-F92A-48CA-B813-EBA8A8D495B0 (resized).jpegA069F4FB-6204-4BF0-9389-9D58DFF451F6 (resized).jpeg
#808 9 months ago
Quoted from sk8ball:

It needs to be a clean shot but in no way should be "hard". Do you have a video you can post?
There are numerous adjustments both in-menu and physically. You can fine tune the home position bias to make sure it is coming down in the center of the ramp (the last 3 game adjustments are for this)
There is also a physical height adjustment on the vertical motor bracket. The jaw should just barely make contact with the ramp. To test go into diag-game-vertical motor test. Lower the trex to the lowest position. If you hit the start button the jaw will toggle open and close.
If the ball goes into the mouth but doesn't grab try removing the spacers on the clear roof plastic at the front of the ramp. This is there to make sure the ball trips the ramp optic in order to fire the mouth magnet.

Anyone know how the physical height adjustment on the vertical motor bracket works? I got my game today and I have about 50% rejects from the mouth. I did the vertical motor test and when the T-Rex lowers and opens it's mouth it's over 1/2 inch above the ramp, and Keith Elwin's post about this says the jaw should just barely contact the ramp and there's an adjustment on the bracket. I checked the manual and looked at the bracket and I can't seem to see where the adjustment should be made.

#809 9 months ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

Anyone know how the physical height adjustment on the vertical motor bracket works? I got my game today and I have about 50% rejects from the mouth. I did the vertical motor test and when the T-Rex lowers and opens it's mouth it's over 1/2 inch above the ramp, and Keith Elwin's post about this says the jaw should just barely contact the ramp and there's an adjustment on the bracket. I checked the manual and looked at the bracket and I can't seem to see where the adjustment should be made.

By the way, after playing the game a few times today I'm LOVING it! It's Dino-mite!!!!!!!!!

#811 9 months ago
Quoted from hawkmoon77:

That seems like a good precaution. With my situation, I would have expected a scrape or scratch. The wrinkles show no sign of adherence to the wood. And they are rigid. Almost like the clear is firmly coating the wrinkles themselves. I would have expected chipping. I'm not sure how a clear coat deforms so rigidly around those wrinkles after it hardens.

Yeah, so many variables on this stuff it's difficult to pin it down - art adherence, clear, & overtightening thin edges contacting the playfield. Seems like it's probably some combination of at least a couple of those. Hope you have better luck from here on.

#890 9 months ago
Quoted from pickleric:

T-Rex Adjustment
[quoted image]

Thanks for posting this. I just gave it a try but there didn’t seem to be much ability to adjust the bracket up and down when the T-Rex was in the lowest position of the vertical test diagnostic. When the T-Rex was in the middle position of the vertical test I was able to adjust the bracket up and down a fair amount, but not when it was in the lowest position so I could line up the open mouth. Anyone else try yet?

#945 9 months ago
Quoted from timlah79:

Actually I take this back as being fixed. Still having the issue. Curious if anyone can give me some advice on how this is supposed to be situated?
The counterbalance appeared to get stuck again above the plastic guard. The problem is if I tighten it to much then there's enough clearance to catch the nut at the bottom to the top of the plastic edge. If I loosen it so there's almost no way the counterbalance can breach the plastic edge but it still gets stuck b/c it's made up of a bunch of separate washers.
What I also think I've realized is there is an additional issue with the mold of the toy itself. There are 2 ways for it to get stuck 1) the counterbalance getting caught or 2) the mold of the body catching the mold of the leg and sticking. No adjustment to the joint seems to make a difference here. Given #2 I don't think there's anything I can do to fully stop this from happening. Should I just ask Stern to send me a full replacement of the entire assembly? Also does anyone know if the plastic guard is supposed to stop the counterbalance or is it supposed to clear it?[quoted image][quoted image]

Here’s what my raptor looks like when I tilt it forward:

21C06D7B-7DBD-4AA1-BCFF-2248C4CAF465 (resized).jpeg
#947 9 months ago
Quoted from pickleric:

Anyone else getting balls stuck in the gate by the spinner?[quoted image][quoted image]

I have over 125 plays on mine and I had it hang up there once. Only took a very, very slight nudge to get mine to release.

#951 9 months ago
Quoted from pickleric:

Anyone else getting balls stuck in the gate by the spinner?[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from EaglePin:

I have over 125 plays on mine and I had it hang up there once. Only took a very, very slight nudge to get mine to release.

Ha! You jinxed me. I just played and it hung up there again. Took a harder nudge to free it this time.

#960 9 months ago
Quoted from timlah79:

Thanks eaglepin. Does the plastic guard disallow it from breaching the edge of the guard? I can't tell whether it's supposed to clear that or not. My guess is no, it's supposed to block it since the screw of the counterbalance itself on mine can't possibly clear it. Knowing that may help me figure out what the holistic fix would be here. I may just shoot Stern a note now for good measure.

The plastic guard blocks the counterbalance on mine. I’m guessing that’s the way it was designed. If yours is getting hung up on the counterbalance can you try something to change the spot where it’s getting caught? Maybe wrapping some black electrical tape around the counterbalance at that spot would eliminate the ridge that’s catching on the plastic?

#1034 9 months ago
Quoted from tacreno:

348 in the house! Fresh coat of wax then started playing.
Started a mode and went right into chaos multiball to get the good score.
This is my first look at in home invisiglass and all i have to say is wow!
One thing my game is doing is holding the ball in the raptor cage after a game ends then when starting a new game it has to ball search and drop the door. This doesnt seem like normal behavior, is it?[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

On mine the ball in the raptor cage is released when the cage goes down after the match play sequence. Any time I hit start on the next game before the match animation is done the ball search kicks in looking for that ball. So if there's a ball in the raptor pen and you're hitting start on the next game before the match animation is done, then I think it's normal for ball search to kick in.

#1035 9 months ago
Quoted from hawkmoon77:

So can someone confirm for me that this is indeed the wrong insert color?
All other rescue inserts are orange. Why is this one white?
EDIT: I just saw a screen shot from Stern's page. Thiers is orange. Mine is clear. Unless I'm misreading it, this is really bad. Did they actually use the wrong color insert? Jeez. How many mistakes on one playfield?
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Wow, yeah it looks like they used the wrong color there. All mine are red and I think they're all supposed to be red (or orange, my eyes aren't that great anymore).

#1036 9 months ago

I dropped power down on my flippers last night and it's made a HUGE difference for me. I was having a really hard time hitting all shots except the two main ramps. For the tower ramp, I was flipping when the ball got to the tip of the flipper and it would still often miss high toward the left orbit. Lowered the power down to 248 on both lower flippers and 243 on the upper right flipper and all shots are much more consistent for me now.

#1064 9 months ago
Quoted from timlah79:

I just did this as well. While it could be a placebo effect, I am all of a sudden hitting my intended targets way more often. Thanks for the pro tip eaglepin !

This afternoon I made another adjustment that I think helped even more. While playing I noticed a slight hop on the ball as it transitioned from the right orbit to the upper right flipper. I took the glass off and rolled a ball down the orbit to see if it would go smoothly down the flipper like it does on the lower flippers. It wasn't smooth. It was hitting the upper flipper and hopping out to where it was rolling past the flipper about 1/2 inch away from the face of the flipper. I took the plastic above the upper flipper off, loosened the ball guide screw below it, and used my hand to put pressure on the very end of the ball guide to push it out a bit. Took some doing but eventually I got it to a point where the ball transitions from the ball guide to the flipper much more smoothly now. There's still a slight bit of a hop out away from the face of the flipper, but it's now less than 1/4 inch and it's really made a big difference in hitting the tower ramp. Since doing this and lowering the flipper power I'm hitting all shots way more reliably now.

#1070 9 months ago
Quoted from timlah79:

Damn eaglepin is having a pin Eagle Eye the reason you picked that handle? Ha! I haven't looked at that but will. Your description though sounds like a fix for something that should flow smoothly, not like an improvement one should have to make. Thoughts?

Just a very minor tweak. It’s a machine and there are always going to be some slight tweaks and adjustments like that needed on a machine to dial it in. I think of things like this as being in a different category than quality & reliability of the build or malfunctioning & defective parts type issues. When I wrote that I wasn't intending it to be critical of the build of the game. I just wanted to share it with other owners as an idea for something to look at when fine tuning it. I know I get a lot of help and ideas from reading about minor adjustments people make on their games so I thought I'd share this one.

#1133 9 months ago
Quoted from evh347:

I’ve seen that graphic before, but thanks for re-posting.
What would be more helpful is the exact menu options for, ‘enter vertical motor test’.
I haven’t found it in the LE manual on how to do this. Standard adjustment? Feature adjustment? Utilities? Test? Where?

To get into the vertical test select "Diag", then "Game", then "Vert" for the T-Rex Vertical test.

Quoted from scooterd:

So, my issue, after using the test-diag menu for vertical, is that at it's lowest setting, it's still a good inch or more from the ramp.... I have hit plenty of balls perfectly that just go SDTM afterwards after rejecting... very frustrating... also, when the T Rex head comes down, it also 'jogs' to the left side ... but, the head is just slightly off center... I think the big issue is that it's nowhere near the ramp...
The menu options (last 3) for in game doesn't seem to have a vertical adjustment... unless I'm not understanding how they work... I have tried -15 to +15 and the head just goes crazy from side to side, and doesn't change how close it gets to the ramp.
For a less than a day old machine, should I be going to Stern or the Distributor? I'm not interested in taking the machine apart myself to mechanically adjust...
Thanks all[quoted image]

When I first got mine it was also (like yours) too high above the ramp and rejecting probably 3-out-of-4 or 4-out-of-5 shots. After the information about the physical bracket adjustment was released I spent a bunch of time monkeying with it one night and I think I figured out the gist of it. When you go into the T-Rex Vertical Test, there are three T-Rex head heights you can toggle to by using the +/- buttons. You'll need to pull out the white interlock switch at the coin door hinge in order for power to go to the system while you're using the vertical test. First, hit the - button to lower the head. Then hit the Start button (same one you push to start a game) to open the mouth to see how high the mouth is off the ramp when it lowers & opens during the game. Check to see how high the bottom of the mouth is off the ramp in this position (T-Rex head low in the vertical test and mouth open). Pushing the start button again closes the mouth. It seems to me that if the bottom of the mouth is more than about 1/4 inch above the ramp you might want to lower it a bit.

To adjust the height, return the T-Rex head to the middle level of the Vertical Test by hitting the + button while it's in the lowest position. Now you'll need to pull the playfield out to the service position so you can loosen the 4 nuts behind the backboard holding the bracket in place (the nut on the bottom right as you're facing the machine is a blind shot to try to find it with the hex driver but it was very do-able once you found it - it's in a symmetrical position to the other nuts). I played it safe by turning the power off before I went to loosen the nuts. Don't loosen them very much, just enough to release the grip on the bracket. If I recall correctly, when I got all four only just loose enough to release the grip on the bracket the head lowered down a bit on its own. If it doesn't lower by its own weight, then you'll want to gently push the head down until the bracket won't let it lower any further. It's not a lot of movement down, but it's enough.

From here when I was monkeying with it I re-tightened the nuts on the bracket, pushed the playfield back in, powered the machine up, lowered the T-Rex head to the low position in the vertical test, and hit the start button to open the mouth. The mouth now completely rested on the ramp when it was open. When I hit start again to close the mouth it wouldn't close (I'm guessing because it hadn't opened all the way). I had to nudge the mouth with my finger to close it. So that meant I'd hit the bottom range of adjustment, and I was a bit too low. So I pulled the playfield back out, moved the T-Rex head back to the middle position of the vertical adjustment test and powered the machine down again. Then I re-loosened the nuts and only just a very, very, very little bit lifted and held the T-Rex head in place with one hand while I re-tightened the two most accessible nuts to hold it in place, and then tightened the other two. It was really only just the slightest lift up to get enough of an adjustment - just enough so the horseshoe openings of the bracket for the screws weren't in contact with the screws any more. A very slight adjustment in the bracket with the head height in the middle position of the vertical test translated to more of an adjustment in the lowered head & open mouth position than I expected it would.

After that, I retested by pushing the playfield back in, lowering the head in the vertical test, and hitting start. The bottom of the mouth was now probably only about 1/4 inch above the ramp & I figured it was close enough to try it out. Since then it's been catching probably 4-out-of-5 or 5-out-of-6 balls that it legitimately should. There are still some that it misses that I think it should catch and my distributor said he got a better understanding now of some of the software adjustments that can be made but I haven't had time in over a week to call him and go over it. I think once I get those figured out I'll be good to go. This is just my experience from memory, but I hope it helps a bit.

One thing to note. Watch the T-Rex head when you raise and lower the playfield. Make sure it's pretty centered looking down the ramp before you power up.
A couple times I didn't realize mine had swung to my right (its left) and was up against the left ramp where it goes through the backboard. When I powered up it started grinding, so I just immediately powered down. It was okay because I only had to use my hand to easily move it back to center before powering up again, but hearing that sound took a couple years off my life.

I think it's an amazing mech and it just needs a bit of tweaking to dial it in. The physical bracket adjustment just wasn't very intuitive. I figured the right position to make the adjustment would be in the low position of the vertical test, but it was impossible to make an adjustment in that position. I just kind of stumbled onto the fact that you need to make the bracket adjustment while it's in the middle position by accident (I didn't try the high position at all). Hope this helps. I'm sure the software side of the adjustments will really help too, but I don't know anything about them yet.

Quoted from timlah79:

I'm still in my back and forth with Stern about my T-Rex rarely catching the ball. Can anyone please take a look at this short video and tell me if it's normal that the T-Rex's entire head shifts/pops to the left to compensate for the space of his upper jaw to fit within the space of the ramp? What this ends up doing is having his open jaw cocked to the left side of the ramp. If no one else's LE does this I have to think I've identified the issue. Really appreciate anyone taking a comparison/look. It's extremely difficult to film/show this while using the vertical test mode and in this mode I cannot make the jaw drop to make it more obvious.
Look very closely at the very last second of this 39sec video: https://photos.app.goo.gl/iNzPW35N2UQKPrYEA
This is exactly what happens every time during regular gameplay just before he opens his jaw.

The link to your video didn't work for me, but the mouth of mine also skews a bit to the left to fit into the ramp when it opens. After making the height adjustment it's catching balls a lot more reliably, but I'm definitely wondering if this left skew could be resolved by a software adjustment to dial it in even better. I'm guessing there are one or two other software adjustments that might help, but I don't want to mess with them without first hearing from someone who knows what each one does.

#1136 9 months ago
Quoted from scooterd:

Thank you for this. I am a home user , so I have never removed the playfield.... so dumb question - how exactly do I do this? Like, super basic! I also know I need to get the balls out before doing so.
Would it be normal to expect the distributor to make this adjustment?
Thanks! ,

It just lifts up by the apron and then slides out very easily. On this machine when you’re done and ready to slide the playfield back in, it’s probably best to slide it back to the point it hits a stop & then lift it up a bit by the handle attached to the back of the playfield to get it past the stop, and then you can slide it in the rest of the way again from the front.

I’d say try to tackle it yourself. I was in your same position a year ago. I’m an accountant and had zero point zero mechanical or fix-it experience in anything, let alone pinball. By using the keyword search and reading advice on Pinside & slowly getting a feel for how some of the mechanics of the machine are supposed to work I’ve become more comfortable tinkering with it and making some minor adjustments. I still have a long, long way to go (for just two examples, I still need to learn to solder and I have no clue about the boards for electronics). When I bought my 1st machine last year I didn’t even know what a nut driver was. Now I have a set of them (very handy on these machines). I suggest going slow, learning as much as you can, and asking questions for advice when you aren’t sure. It’s fun learning about it as you go.

#1141 9 months ago
Quoted from hawkmoon77:

For anyone following along on the issues with my playfield, there is an update.
Two senior people at Stern reached out to me over the last week or so after hearing about the issues and seeing the pictures. They are sending a new, populated PF to my distributor who will swap it out for me. Everyone was extremely kind to me throughout the process. It should take about a week or so to arrive. I wanted to thank everyone here as well for your counsel and support. Knowing what I might expect (and should ask for) was very helpful.

That’s great! Very good to hear they’re taking care of it. Big contrast there to the JJP POTC experience.

#1170 9 months ago
Quoted from catchlight:

Just got my highest score to date. 314 million. I know, nothing to brag about. How are you guys going after the big scores? Stricly raptor, t rex, and chaos multi ball? Does it pay to go after the paddocks? I would love to hear some of your guys insights and tips!

I like trying to increase the T-Rex multiball jackpot value by hitting a few of the shots before starting it, and then I like trying to hit the jackpots from left to right when it starts. Usually I drain while in the process of trying to boost the jackpot value though. One time after hitting a miracle streak of consecutive shots including the T-Rex catch I was able to start T-Rex multiball with a jackpot value of about 5.8 million, and then of course drained without hitting a jackpot. Best I've done so far is hit three of the jackpots in order left to right. It's probably not the smartest way to play but most of the time I like playing by picking one or two objectives & challenges to try to go after instead of going for pure score. I haven't done very well in the control room modes. Those are tough for me but once or twice I've been able to get 30 to 40 million out of one. I did get through Raptor Tri-Ball once for 280 million. That was REALLY fun, but I'm guessing I won't be able to pull it off again. I really like all the different choices of what modes to play and when to play them. I haven't really focused on trying to get far in the paddocks yet. Seems like the best way to go for a high scores would be to start a paddock and then try to start a multiball or T-Rex mode with it.

#1172 9 months ago
Quoted from Flare:

Raptor doesn't seem to be at this point (code build .89), on top of being dicey to attain (there's an occassional, and downright nasty right lane drain reward for nailing the gate... I'm thinking a backhand shot on from the left flipper might help mitigate said drain threat, but I haven't spent any time to experiment on that shot focus

Good idea, I’m going to try that backhand to the pen from the left flipper. Any time I’ve tried to get Raptor Tri Ball started it’s had to just be my focus for that one game because of all the drains on the rebounds.

#1173 9 months ago

Anyone have the T-Rex setting to allow it to throw the ball enabled? I set mine to only have it place it on the wire form. Seems like it could cause damage throwing it and I haven’t wanted to take the risk. Just curious if anyone has tried it and how it’s going. How far does it throw?

#1192 9 months ago

Interesting that the T-Rex feed hurry up is now collected when the first opto is crossed. So I’m guessing the multiball will now start even if the T-Rex misses the catch? This update looks pretty sweet. I can’t wait to load it and dive in.

#1193 9 months ago
Quoted from Navystan:

New Stern pin? I was looking for the "born date" on my new JP LE that arrived today. It's number 357. When I looked for born data, I saw this sticker on the edge of Playfield. It says, "JAWS LE" and in pen the number 491. My number is not 491, it's 357. Is this a mistake and they put wrong tag for a future Stern pin? OK, maybe just wishing. By the way, can anyone tell me where I would find the "born date?"
Thanks.[quoted image]

There should be a tag on the back of the machine that has the date.

#1203 9 months ago

Do I need to save my game settings and re-load them after the code update? Also, does updating the code wipe out previous high scores and game audits?

#1205 9 months ago
Quoted from evh347:

I just got .90 installed.
Wow. Just wow. The T-rex toy has got to be up there with the MM castle as one of the best toys ever designed.
The new smart missile gameplay is really cool.
I'm just digging in w/ a few games completed and there is definitely some new things to be excited about.
Bravo Keith (and team)….please keep 'em coming.

There are two LE code files in the download and they both have the .spk extension. One file is .spk.002.000 and one file is .spk.002.001. Do we need to install the .000 first and then the .001?

#1222 9 months ago

I just played for awhile on the new code. Pretty great update. I like the new smart missile setup. I had an idea to continue hitting Abort until I got to the T-Rex paddock and then use it to "Clear Paddock". I made it to the T-Rex paddock once, but I accidentally pressed past the selection for "Clear Paddock" and ended up on the next award instead. I really liked the new T-Rex movement too. Pretty amazing game!

#1279 9 months ago
Quoted from bemmett:

Bad news, my moving T-Rex head has broken already. It happened the 2nd game after I updated the code so I was hoping it was code related but have not heard anyone else reporting an issue so appears it is mechanical. I probably only have 50-100 games on it or so overall. It made a horrible clicking/grinding sound sound and then was stuck in place. I'll be in contact with Stern to see about what needs fixed. Hope this mech holds up long term and is not a constant issue, hopefully just bad luck.

Where did it get stuck? I noticed last night on mine that when it did its new moves while holding the ball it was coming really close to hitting the wire form from the left ramp. It was just BARELY high enough to clear it while it moved around, but one time it was low enough that it hit it and seemed to be stuck for a second. It didn’t start grinding but I was reaching for the power switch when it freed itself. It always raised to the right height to place the ball on the wire, but the movement before that was usually really low and almost colliding with it.

#1295 9 months ago
Quoted from bemmett:

Ya so a less than thrilling end to my Trex head having a problem. I tested it multiple times thru menu, wan't working. Got Chas from Stern on the phone and got into the back of the machine. Nothing popped out to me at all as tangled or loose but I did fidget with some wires and whatnot and then of course it was working again as I was talking to Chas. So, got me, maybe was a wire binding something up or a loose connection or something but all seems good again.

Awesome that it’s working again!

#1405 8 months ago

Anyone having an issue with the raptor post not catching the lock ball? My post is popping up but it's a fraction of a second too late so the ball has rebounded past it. I don't know if it's a coincidence or not, but it was working 100% before the software update and ever since the software update the post is just that fraction of a second late in coming up to block the ball. The game continues on okay and recognizes the ball hasn't been caught & adjusts by lowering the post again. Raptor tri-ball can then still be started by hitting the targets in the cage but it would still be nice to have it make the catch. It seems to be working fine in the coil test, and there doesn't seem to be an adjustment to tweak it in the menu settings. The only thing I found in the menu is an option to completely disable the post.

#1460 8 months ago
Quoted from timlah79:

Yes I have seen this as well. And only since the .90 update. At times I thought it was that my shots into it were hit so fast that the post couldn't keep up (i.e. accidental right flipper entry instead of smoother left flipper entry but I've seen this happen a couple times both ways). Seems like another software bandaid, just as they did with counting the t-rex catch when it doesn't actually catch the ball.

Looks like this just got addressed in the new .91 code release. Awesome!!! I’m loving these code updates. New scoring on the raptor tower combo looks great too.

#1554 8 months ago
Quoted from adamross:

Having a weird thing with the raptor lock. The ball will hit the target and trigger the lock after the ball has left the pit. Anyone else?

Yes I've had that happening, but it's one of the items listed as being addressed in the new .91 code update they just released.

#1686 8 months ago

I can't get enough of playing this game. Just had some really fun games and got a couple smart missile hits. One smart missile started Raptor Tri-Ball while I was in a control room mode and I got 2x going along with it. On the other I had Chaos MB going and ended up with 3 balls lined up at the post for the smart missile and hit the shot with the lead ball while 2x was going. It's such an awesome feeling to hit three or four shots in a row with the ball flying around but still flowing so smoothly into each one. Back to back loop shots get the ball up to supersonic speed. Too much fun! Time to go play again!

#1689 8 months ago

I noticed a bit of audio tonight I hadn't noticed before. When the truck crashes over the cliff after draining the left outlane you hear the truck's engine rev and then a very low, barely noticeable clip of the driver yelling "aaaaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhh" as the truck continues to fall. I thought that was pretty funny.

#1707 8 months ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

I am sure this has been talked about...but I'm inept at finding the details on the forums . I thought that the T Rex was supposed to randomly throw the ball, not just set it on the wireform. Is there a setting that I'm missing?
Thanks for the help!

Yes there’s a setting in the menu that toggles the throw on or off. I forget where it is in the menu though.

#1709 8 months ago
Quoted from IronMan8Bit:

Just bought a JP LE should be here in a couple of days! Is there any specific posts I should look at for tweaking my machine?
I've owned a Guardians and there were a few issues with the drop target and right orbit that needed attention.
Anything like that on JP? Also any areas that have lots of dimpling that might require mylar or anything? I have the plastic protector set coming from Mezels, but no shooter lane protector as of yet was thinking I would just add some mylar to that.
Any help is much appreciated!

I had to adjust the height of my T-Rex bracket, but they may be setting them up differently now so you might not need to. Some have had issues with the raptor tail getting caught on the plastic behind it. Check the posts at the ramp entrances and the post protecting the upper flipper for tightness. I decreased flipper power settings in order for some shots to be more makable. I also adjusted the angle of the ball guide leading to the upper flipper to have the ball come off the guide and roll down closer to the face of the flipper, but again that was a personal preference type of adjustment. Doesn’t seem like there’s too much tinkering needed on this machine though, and I can’t think of any widespread issues to address. It’s been a blast to play and to own so far.

#1721 8 months ago
Quoted from IronMan8Bit:

That is what it seemed like skimming everything I just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing anything.
What did you lower the power to on your flippers? If you don't mind me asking always nice to have some fine tuned shots! haha

I went to 248 on the lower flippers and 243 on the upper. One other thing I remember. You might end up wanting to bend the gate behind the spinner a bit so it doesn’t stick out into the orbit quite as far. It’s a bit of a ball trap there.

#1775 8 months ago
Quoted from Oneangrymo:

Does anyone elses T Rex hit the left power line thing with its head at times?

Do you mean the wires or the post the wires are attached to? Mine hit the wires but I just bent the wires out of the way so it wouldn't happen anymore.

#1867 8 months ago
Quoted from GamerRick:

I really think since it seems to be so involved to adjust all of the different TRex settings That Stern should put out a simple poster or flyer or something explaining it don’t you think? I really like Chas and I think he’s a great guy but I don’t think the explanation he gave one of the other Pinsiders says very much about it at all. We shouldn’t have to figure these things out they should just tell us

Yep, this seems to be a very new and different mech from anything else in any other game, so it would be helpful if they put together guides to cover what to do in a few different situations (mouth is too far above ramp, head is too low, head is too far to the right, T-Rex isn't catching, etc.). And/or maybe a quick overview of what each of the T-Rex software adjustments is designed to correct also.

#1904 8 months ago

Does anyone ever feel like their T-Rex has "gone to sleep" (for lack of a better phrase) when trying to hit it? My T-Rex has now been catching most of the clean shots when they're made within a reasonable time after the T-Rex event starts. However, whenever it takes me a longer time to get a clean shot to the ramp after the T-Rex event starts, the ball won't be caught. The T-Rex will give one quick roar immediately after the reject, and then if I get a very similar clean shot at it again soon after that it will be caught. It's been a very predicable behavior. I can now pretty well guess when I'll need two shots (one to wake it up and one to catch it) when it's taken too long for me to get a good shot off at the ramp. I'm wondering if there's some adjustment in the settings that can be made to prevent this "sleep mode". Anyone notice anything similar?

#1945 8 months ago
Quoted from flashburn:

Wow, that sucks.
The stupid thing is that this happened because they clamped down all the metal rails so damn tight, it forced the clear up... yet when I was replacing all the rubbers I found that every damn post was loose! Whoever assembled this playfield did an absolutely terrible job.
Of course I didn't find this new playfield issue until after I replaced all of the posts and rubbers, so if they do give me a new one I will have to swap them all back again.

They really should put washers under the guide rail screws to keep the rail from resting on the clear coat.

#1947 8 months ago
Quoted from Dahawk007:

Anyone else have this issue with their Trex head? This morning he would just continually move his head back and forth but further to each side as normal. He would push the electric fence on the left side and over hang the ramp on the right. So much so that the ball on the return ramp would hit him. He also now tries to open his mouth in areas not over the ramp entry. He never stops moving or roars at the beginning of the game. Any ideas?

I haven’t had that happen. Is it still lowering to try to catch balls? If you start a T-Rex event does it settle down? Maybe then it could reset and go back to normal. Or maybe there’s some switch stuck that’s causing it somehow. Are there any switches reporting stuck?

#1993 8 months ago
Quoted from catchlight:

I am having trouble with my right flipper, it is having not making it up the ramp and I have the power set to full (250). I know the coil stops are problematic, but what about them are bad? I opened mine up, and looked at coil stop, but cannot see anything loose or broken. Do they just bend a little? I guess I am trying to ask if the problem is obvious with a "bad" coil stop?
Thanks in advance!

I just had this happen a couple days ago. On mine the rivet in the middle of the coil stop was knocked out so only a hole remained. Here's a link to my post with a picture of what it looks like with the rivet missing.


But for some reason it didn't look like that was the problem with mine at first though. When it first lost power that was the first thing I looked at because it's been such a commonly reported issue, but I slid the playfield out to look and saw rivets in both coil stops so I thought I must be having a different problem. Then the next day I lifted the playfield up to check it out again and this time the rivet was missing, so I'm thinking that when I saw it the first time it was actually loose or something and didn't look like it was a problem even though it was.

#2091 8 months ago
Quoted from ercvacation:

Are there any videos of what the raptor is supposed to do on the premiums/Le's? How is it activated? I know some people had issues and mine doesn't seem to do anything. I feel bad for Keith Elwin. He made such an awesome game but Stern has shit the bed on their quality control.

Raptor should make a quick lunge forward when the back target in the raptor cage is hit.

#2233 8 months ago
Quoted from hawkmoon77:

My understanding is that once the T-rex event is ready and she lowers her jaw, it is ready for T-rex multiball as soon as you get it in her mouth. However, if you hit the truck before getting it in her mouth, it will begin cycling through the t-rex modes each time you hit the truck.

I think T-Rex multiball is always first, then for subsequent T-Rex events the selection switches each time the truck changes direction.

#2388 8 months ago
Quoted from PBatt:

I FINALLY solved my issue by removing the two black spacers on the ramp deflector. They are maybe 1/4" - 3/8" tall, black plastic. By removing them, the ball is deflected downward and that trips the opto triggering the T-Rex.
Who's idea was that in the first place . . . .

Is this one of the spacers you’re referring to (circled in red)? I’ve see posts about doing this and I’m guessing these are the spacers to remove but just wanted to check to be sure. Is the ball hopping up at that spot when it hits the ramp apron? Thanks.

BE575633-2837-46B3-B7AD-8A2E0D7271BB (resized).jpeg
#2403 8 months ago
Quoted from mummite:

Since day1 of my NIB LE T-REX never moved horizontally great. Over time it was moving, less and less to the point where it finally did not move at all. The motor worked and everything was working and getting triggered as intended, but no head movement.
The issue was set screw #9 (seen manual page below) that holds the metal rod in place that black box motor rotates. Tighten this up and it works great again.
Posting this here in case anyone else has this issue.[quoted image]

Thanks for posting this. Amazing how it sometimes only takes the slightest little thing to cause a big problem.

#2429 8 months ago
Quoted from mthirkell:

Stern is sending me 3 coil stops under warranty.

My replacements were requested 10/28. Still haven’t arrived. I’m not thrilled about going almost two weeks now without being able to play it. I’m getting the withdrawal shakes. Let’s see who gets their replacements first

It’s looking like it’ll be you even though I only live about 20-30 minutes from Stern. Not awesome.

#2432 8 months ago
Quoted from Chappie101:

I ordered mine from Pinball Life, $4.95ea and delivered in 3 days! I couldn't go 2 weeks without playing I probably should submit a ticket to Stern though, so that they are aware of the failures.

Yep, I know I could order them there but like you mentioned I thought it would be a good idea to file a ticket with Stern. I didn’t think it would/should take more than a few days for Stern to get them out to me though.

#2439 8 months ago
Quoted from EightBallTexas:

So just order one from pinball life and get it months before Stern ?? GRRRRR.

Could be coil stop but could be something else too. When my coil stop broke it would still flip, it was just super weak.

#2443 8 months ago
Quoted from EightBallTexas:

What would make my top right flipper just stop working?? I have had zero issues until today. Everything else seems to work . HMM
What's the best test that I need to do in the menu to check?
Any ideas??

Can you check the switch for it in the switch test in the menus?

#2491 8 months ago
Quoted from EightBallTexas:

Here is Trisha's new home. Gonna paint the screw later. It's here or the trash...LOL[quoted image]

Trisha Pteranodon! LOLOLOL!!!! That's awesome!!!!!!

#2498 8 months ago
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:

Is there any shipping binding on the Raptor?
I havent seen mine move. I checked Coil tests but didnt see one dedicated?
Is the back plate a coiled kick back?

I don’t remember any shipping binding on it. It’s not coiled. The target face of the metal plate is pushed by the ball strike and that push causes the top part of the metal plate (running under the raptor) to tilt the raptor forward). Maybe check that the black counterweight under the raptor’s tail isn’t caught on the plastic. Here’s what mine looks like.

71BBE8ED-245D-464A-A0ED-C57BE6A4205D (resized).jpeg
#2533 8 months ago
Quoted from EightBallTexas:

Here is a little treat for you guys. The lucky ones who downloaded the new clips have heard 2 versions at the end of the game.
Wifey jumped on the piano and I caught her playing and practicing. Not bad for 3 attempts.


#2550 8 months ago

Anyone know what the round thing on the T-Rex tongue is? A sensor or a light? Or the magnet? I was experimenting with the bias settings and noticed it. Just curious about what it is.

E6C23427-64CE-4B00-92B1-6D19D4D53748 (resized).jpeg
#2554 8 months ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

Anyone know what the round thing on the T-Rex tongue is? A sensor or a light? Or the magnet? I was experimenting with the bias settings and noticed it. Just curious about what it is.[quoted image]

Found it in the manual. It's an opto in the mouth. So I guess this is what activates the magnet? I didn't realize that opto was there so I'd been thinking the opto that activates the magnet was the one at the entrance to the left ramp. I'm wondering if missed catches might sometimes be related to that mouth opto then? I took the spacers off the plastic at the ramp entrance and still had a few missed catches. It was about the same performance as it was before I took the spacers off - so not perfect but not too bad either. There are still a couple times when it misses clean shots though, and sometimes it seems like it's the shots that have a bit more speed on them that are missed more frequently.

#2571 8 months ago
Quoted from imagamejunky:

Did you try adjusting the height of the trex so the jaw slightly rests on the ramp? This helped mine.

Yep, the jaw is on the ramp. It's not missing the catch on a lot of shots, I'm just trying to raise the batting average a bit if I can.

#2573 8 months ago
Quoted from imagamejunky:

Just this morning I saw an adjustment setting for trex jaw hold power. I wonder if increasing this increases the magnet power. It might help with the trex catching the ball easier. Just a guess.

I hadn't seen that one. I'll check it out. Thanks!

#2603 8 months ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

I get that and ball trough check switch messages..usually Number 4 but also 3 and 5 occasionally, clearing them just brings them back later
I would encourage you to write to Stern on their support site, I know Chas is aware but the more people they hear this from, the better...I wish there was a bug reporting submission/ticket site similar to what video game companies have
As far as the error, it doesn't affect gameplay at all...from what I can tell, the 48 v interlock killing power to the node boards when the coin door is opened is causing the software...that was my guess and Chas thought is was probably the case, but no confirmation they are working on it as a bug clear...I'm sure they've had to see i though...it's hard not to miss

Does the bug.report@sternpinball e-mail address work or actually go anywhere? I sent a couple emails to it about a month ago for possible Jurassic Park bugs but I have no idea if they’re even read by anyone. I figured there’d at least be an automatic reply acknowledging they got it, but no response at all. It felt like the emails just went into a black hole so I stopped sending any more.

#2613 8 months ago
Quoted from MrElbow:

Does anyone know where I can find info on the following two missing screws/screw+nut combo (sizes etc)? The first photo is pretty self explanatory under the T-Rex ramp. The second photo is the very back right side of the machine under the right ramp. They are both clear plastic protector pieces that do not appear to be in the manual.[quoted image][quoted image]

For the one at the left ramp, is it the same #6 screw listed on Page 56 of the manual as being part of the ramp protector part (12) in the left ramp assembly? Looks like the plastic protector hole lines up with that ramp protector part and so might use the same screw.

#2614 8 months ago
Quoted from MrElbow:

Does anyone know where I can find info on the following two missing screws/screw+nut combo (sizes etc)? The first photo is pretty self explanatory under the T-Rex ramp. The second photo is the very back right side of the machine under the right ramp. They are both clear plastic protector pieces that do not appear to be in the manual.[quoted image][quoted image]

For the one near the right ramp is the plastic under it #8 on Page 50 of the manual? If so, that assembly shows a 7/8” hex spacer with a screw going into the bottom of it. I’d think the same size screw might also be used at the top of that hex spacer to hold the plastic protector.

1 week later
#2837 7 months ago
Quoted from beaplayer:

Possible software bug? I received my premium Friday with .91 code. I have seen two times when I'm in CHAOS multiball that the flippers go dead.
Both times its been when I've been in the multiball for a decent amount of time with several jackpots,etc. Both times with at least 2 balls still active.
Has anyone else seen this before?
Other than this. Machine is having no issues. 95% TREX ball capture, 90% shooter lane through helopad.
I have been experimenting with playfield angle. Seems like 7 degrees works the best. I did read somewhere that Elwin said he designed the game to be
best played at 7.

I had the same thing happen last night. First time it has happened to me. Long multiball, two balls still in play, Chaos seems to suddenly end and flippers went dead. I wondered at first if maybe it was a trough opto problem but they seemed okay in the switch check in the menu.

I kept playing some more games specifically shooting to try to get Chaos MB to see if it would happen again. Got Chaos MB a couple more times and it seemed to work fine. One thing I noticed during the Chaos MB that bugged out was during it the raptor gate was down and I thought I noticed the post come up to hold a ball that went in the pen and then immediately lower again to release it. It was only up for a second or less to trap the ball just briefly, and I only noticed it happen once. Not sure if that’s supposed to happen or if it could be related to a bug.

I thought about sending an e-mail to the Stern bug report email address but since I sent two in a month or so ago and didn’t even get an auto reply that the email was received I wasn’t going to waste my time again if those emails aren’t actually anywhere.

#2846 7 months ago
Quoted from Jahkub:

I think I saw discussion about this on tiltforums, so Kieth and team are aware.

I don’t recall seeing this mentioned there. I just went and scrolled back through the forum again and there was a mention of flippers going dead after a control room mode is started, but I didn’t see anything about it happening in Chaos MB. I could have missed it though.

#2899 7 months ago
Quoted from GamerRick:

It takes away from the cool look of the shooter rod lit up

AAAAAAARGH I WANT THAT SHOOTER ROD!!!!!!!!!!! Sorry, had to get that out of my system. I only have one mod on three games combined, but I really want that shooter rod to get back in stock so I can get one. Looks pretty sweet.

#2907 7 months ago
Quoted from AUKraut:

it could be worse, you could have paid for yours on 10/21 in the Stern Store when they were supposedly in stock and have nothing to show for it: no shooter, no notification, no contact, nothing....

Yikes, that stinks.

#2927 7 months ago
Quoted from Braindance:

Had a couple good billion point games before work yesterday. I keep learning new things about this game. The only real complaint I have is when I'm rocking a multiball, getting all the shots, and the game loses track of number of balls, thus ending my ball when I still have one or two balls in play. I'm sure it will be fixed in a code update.
On another note, what do you guys find to be the most difficult aspect of this game? I can blow up the multiballs and get super jackpots, but getting four dinos is proving tough.

Yep, I’m pretty much in the same boat. It’s tough for me to make all the necessary shots in a game to catch a bunch of dinosaurs. I can usually get two or sometimes three of them, but between catching dinosaurs, running control room modes, and T-Rex modes it’s tough for me to play all those different things and survive to get more dinosaurs. Lots of fun trying though!!!

#2971 7 months ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

Just noticed in your pic you are developing a rub spot at the same point I had (on a thinner clear, no art around post Premium), the guide rail was torqued too tight and it started digging into the playfield and dare I say it (bubbling the clear slightly) I took a heat gun in 3 second passes and it layed down immediately...I let it cool, cleaned and waxed the area, loosened the two nuts under the playfield to give clearance to insert some mylar (this was a bitch and took multiple attempts) under the rail and then screwed the rail back down just hand tight...so far so good.
I can't figure out why there isn't some sort of clearance system built into rails...all it takes is too much torque and playfield rubbing and clear issues are sure to happen
[quoted image]

First thing I did when I got my machine (before playing a ball) was back off the ball guide screw at the entrance to the left orbit to put a fraction of space between it and the playfield and I also put fabric washers at the apron screw holes. The ball guide on that left orbit was already cutting into the playfield without a ball having been played yet. The manufacturers really should put washers under those spots or leave them a fraction above the surface to keep the edges of the guides and aprons from cutting like a knife into the playfield.

#3052 7 months ago
Quoted from Chappie101:

Ok guys have a strange one here... When setting the angle for the playfield do you normally set to the flippers at the bottom or as close to the top as you can?
I set mine yesterday to 7 degrees at the top of the playfield and it reads around 6.7 by the flippers. The machine plays fine I'm not noticing a great deal of difference in making the helipad shot from what it was prior (6.5 at the flippers), I also adjusted the top flipper a little as it was really intruding in to the helipad lane, it definitely made a difference! (First pic is before adjusting second is after) After making these adjustments and this is the strangest thing, the shaker motor is now really shaking the machine with a vengeance! I'm thinking can changing the angle of the game really change the intensity of the shaker? I wouldn't think so but then again that's why I'm asking the experts Btw, the game is level side to side withing .2 of a degree.
Also, When making a full right orbit loop the ball comes around and hits the truck nuts instead of hitting the upper flipper like I've seen it do on the Dead Flip videos, I tried looking under the playfield to see if there is a screw/nut to adjust the side rail but couldn't find any. Anyone else notice this particular issue? Thanks guys![quoted image][quoted image]

My orbit shots are also hitting the truck when they go through at medium or high speed. Lower speed orbit shots are missing the truck and going to the flipper. This weekend I’m going to try to bend the guide rail at the exit of the orbit to see if I can slightly change the angle it comes out of there so they all go to the flipper.

#3103 7 months ago
Quoted from Peanuts:

New code!
V0.95.0 - November 25, 2019
- Visitor Center - added this new mini-wizard mode which is lit when you proceed through all Paddocks and reach the Visitor Center
- Museum Mayhem - added this new mini-wizard mode which is lit at the T-Rex when you complete all T-Rex event modes
- Secure Control Room - added this new mini-wizard mode which is lit at the Control Room when you complete 3 Control Room modes
- Invalid Frenzy - added this new mini-wizard mode which is lit when you complete all Control Room modes and Secure Control Room mini-wizard mode
- Visitor Center Bonus - when you reach the visitor center there is a bonus applied for Fossils Collected, Rescues, Longest Rescue Streak, DNA Collected, and Paddocks Visited
- T-Rex Mech - now throws left / right during T-Rex Rampage and Museum Mayhem (T-REX THROW BALL ENABLED adjustment is still available to turn throws off)
- Raptor Locks - fixing an issue where lighting lock and shooting the lock shot quickly after could cause the gate to not close and the ball to lock virtually, instead of physically
- Raptor Locks - fixing an issue where lighting lock in the Raptor Pit and starting Chaos MB could allow the ball to be locked during Chaos MB causing it to end early
- Raptor Locks - Raptor Fence Integrity now starts at 50% for the first multiball
- Raptor Locks - when locks can't be advanced all Raptor Target hits will do a negative sound and light effect
- Raptor Tri-Ball - fixing an issue when you have a ball locked and hit the ball to refresh the timer during the grace period of the lock timer the ball will be released early
- Raptor Tri-Ball - added new start light show
- Raptor Tri-Ball - added new light show for Jackpot and Super Jackpot
- King of the Island - don't start music until intro is complete
- King of the Island - added a new Jackpot lamp effect
- Chaos Multiball - removed the Add-A-Ball award from Supply Drop, Add-A-Balls are now only available from Pop Bumper hits
- Smart Missile - Left Inlane Up Post now fires faster when triggering from the left inlane switch
- Smart Missile - fixed and issue with the 'Smart Missile' insert flashing after the time to hit it was expired
- Amber Pops - added a new background light effect on the Pops when this is running
- Amber Slings - fixed an issue where the Amber Slings timer would be paused by the pop bumpers
- Dilophosaurus Paddock - when Staff is immobilized the text on the display effect now shows the number of seconds it will last
- Escape - escape timer no longer pauses for anything
- System Failure - added an expanded light show when you start your first paddock and the system failure video plays
- 2X Playfield - added a new light show when activated
- Supply Drop Lit - adding a new light show when this happens
- Truck Flasher - adding more Truck flasher light shows when the Truck is hit at key times
- T-Rex Chase - added T-Rex mech and light choreography when mode is progressed
- Replay - adjusted the Replay display effect priority so it waits until more important things are shown before displaying the Replay
- Sound Effects - many sound effect have been updated and volumes tweaked
- Score Frame - hide Paddock info boxes when the next Paddock is the Visitor Center
- Enter Initials - now using waterfall background instead of backgrounds relating to each high score
- Mosquito in Amber Accessory Shooter Knob - many more lamp effects added during Amber Pops / Slings / Targets / Ramps
- Attract Mode - adding Rescue Tutorial video into the attract mode loop
- Attract Mode - adjusted GI to full brightness during 30 second light cycling, GI to half brightness instead of off when lamp groups are flashing
- Diagnostics - added a Ramp Opto Test for detecting both optos when shooting the Left Ramp, this can be used to diagnose issues with missing the Left Ramp Entry Opto
- Adjustment Changes:
- changed 'AMBER RAMP TIMER' default from 30 to 50 seconds
- changed 'AMBER SLINGS TIMER' default from 30 to 40 seconds
- changed 'AMBER POPS TIMER to default from 30 to 20 seconds
- 'AMBER TARGETS TIMER' remains 30 seconds
- changed 'T-REX STEP THROW TICKS' to 'T-REX STEP THROW RIGHT TICKS' - used for fine tuning when the jaw releases the ball when throwing right
- added 'T-REX STEP THROW LEFT TICKS' - used for fine tuning when the jaw releases the ball when throwing left
- UTILS -> VOLUME -> BACKBOX SPEAKER TYPE - now set to 4 OHMs on boot for LE machines only
- removed 'MAP - START PADDOCK' - no more cheating since mini-wizard mode scoring is based on paddocks visited
- System - Updated to V2.36
- Updated to nodeboard firmware v0.53.0

Wow it looks like there’s a ton in this update. Can’t wait to load it and play!!!! RIP supply drop add-a-ball on Chaos MB. You’ll be missed

#3148 7 months ago
Quoted from skink91:

I put on 0.95 this morning... at the end of my second or third game, the sound got really loud and the speaker crackled for a few seconds before going back to normal. Anyone else experience something similar? It hasn’t happened again yet.

That happened to me once about a week ago.

#3232 7 months ago
Quoted from VindictiveX:

T-REX not Grabbing ball Consistently SOLVED.
Hey guys,
Just wanted to post this here as it may help some of you who are also having problems with the T-Rex not grabbing the ball consistently.
First of all, I did the mechanical adjustments that were listed previously in this thread by Keith and other posters regarding proper alignment of the T-rex. I ensured that when the T-rex opened his mouth that his jaw was resting lightly on the ramp and adjusted the T-rex left and right bias to make her jaw line up with the middle of the ramp. However, she still only grabbed the ball about 20% of the time. The other times it would just go in her mouth come back out and not even start the event. This made me realize that she was not being activated to grab the ball.
I went into switch mode and tested the opto on the trex ramp. it would trigger only if I placed a pinball directly on the ramp. If i raised the pinball even 1/8th of an inch off the ramp the the opto would disengage. I then tested the opto in the "O" lane. I could raise the ball 1/4 to 1/2 and inch and the opto would still be engaged. so with this information I realized I needed to raise the optics on the ramp because my pinball was jumping over the opto 70% of the time. However, there was no easy way to raise the opto as it is attached directly to the ramp. At this point I called Chaz at Stern, explained the problem, and asked if he knew of a way to raise these optics. He did not and suggested write a email and send pictures so he could forward to engineering.
However, once I got off the phone and realized there was not going to be an easy way to raise the optics, I started to think of other solutions. What I came up with is not elegant, but it works.
I covered the bottom half of the opto with tape.(see tape on ramp in the pictures below). This effectively raised the optics without physically moving it.
Now when in switch mode, i could raise the ball about 1/4 to half an inch off the ramp and the opto would still engage.
I then tested in game. Now, once the Trex opens her mouth to start a Trex mode, 100% of the shots to the ramp are recognized(starting the Trex event) and she grabs the ball about 80% - 90% of the time.
This is obviously not a permanent solution, but will work until I think of something else or Stern gets back to me.
hope this helps![quoted image][quoted image]

My T-Rex had been catching about 80% or 90% of shots, but I did this tape fix last night and it seems to have helped get it closer to 100%. I'd previously taken the spacers off the plastic protector over the top of the ramp entrance, and that had helped at the time but there was a tradeoff on mine in that more shots up the ramp started hitting the protector, losing steam, and not making it up the ramp. Now with the tape fix I put the spacers back on and it's working well. Thanks for the great idea!

I also put tape on the orbit opto. Shots going through the orbit at crazy speed hadn't been registering occasionally, and now it's registering them all. Similar concept to the tape idea for the ramp, just a different use of it. Here's the post where I got that idea:


#3246 7 months ago
Quoted from Green-Machine:

Any pictures of tape in use? I would like to see it so I can try. Thank you

Here are pictures. Didn’t remove anything other than the protector over the ramp entrance to do it. Just used tweezers to place the tape and pressed it on.

02585DA2-F1A3-4667-B665-CEB5284CBB54 (resized).jpegA9EE6EA5-7C3D-4470-8D8B-EA7C6A078F2F (resized).jpeg
#3260 7 months ago
Quoted from jdroc:

Let us know how that works. My orbit shots started doing this about a week ago (never did it in the few hundred games before that). I'm going to try bending the guide down a little also to see if it will clear and still allow a raised upper flipper to just deflect the ball around the orbit again (as in the dead flip streams)

I worked on the left orbit exit today and got it adjusted so right orbit shots exiting out left don’t hit the truck anymore. Took a bit of pushing but I got it done without removing anything. I loosened the nut for the screw at the end of the ball guide, then I snipped a fiber washer so I could sneak it under the guide and around the screw. That way when I cranked the nut back down the ball guide wouldn’t be cutting into the playfield (pictures below). Then I lifted the playfield vertical and got my son to help. I was on the right side of the machine reaching in to push really hard against the end of the guide with the end of a small pair of pliers. When I got it pushed in as far as I thought I could I had him tighten the nut down. The end of the ball guide was only a fraction of an inch closer to the edge of the supply drop target, but it made all the difference. Here’s the washer I used:


610ABF81-95F9-4185-8DC3-B5F28ACA3916 (resized).jpegAE7A4911-0C4C-497D-B236-524667195336 (resized).jpeg
#3284 7 months ago
Quoted from kamidave:

Hi everyone;
I searched through several pages of this post, didn't find any reference to this, apologies if I missed it. I'm guessing this isn't happening to just me.
After updating to the newest software, I now have an issue where when T-Rex Multiball starts, the second ball doesn't actually kick off. When the ball in play drains, you have to wait for the ball find to cycle and then the two balls kick out.
Anyone else? I feel like this wasn't happening before update, but I only had it for a couple of days prior.

Have you checked the optos on the trough? Sounds like what can happen when one of the trough optos isn’t working. Might be worth checking.

#3296 7 months ago
Quoted from beelzeboob:

Hey, Keith! The ohm-setting-change-y thingy actually works...BUT...my machine keeps going back to the awful-sounding 4-ohm setting that it went to after the update. Is that a bug in the new code, or is my machine borked? I'm REALLY big into sound, so this is bumming me out.
If anybody else knows how to make the 8-ohm setting stick, please clue me in. Thanks!

Mine also keeps going back to 4 ohm after powering down.

#3300 7 months ago
Quoted from caker137:

If you look at the release notes that's what they intend it to do. The LE has 4 ohm speakers (upgraded sound). I've had good luck at also setting the cabinet to 4 ohm (It is in fact 4 ohms) and then just raising the main volume up to get the same levels as when it was incorrectly driving the 4 ohm speakers as if they are 8 ohm. Tweak the bass and trebble a bit and you can get it sounding very close to how it was at 8 ohm settings, but now actually driving your speakers correctly.

Thanks, I didn't realize that. I'll play around with it a bit.

#3349 7 months ago
Quoted from timlah79:

fooflighter snaroff So much insight into my issues and expectations, my friends. Truly appreciate everything you've said. This is my first pin so while I've had a ton of legitimate physical issues with the game I am still learning what my expectations/threshold should be. What I explained to my dist today was, "man it would be great if Stern would set expectations from the get-go via a whitepaper or something." What I mean by that is it would be helpful if Stern had documentation such as, "the T-Rex is expected to catch the ball xx% of the time from a solid shot during mode a, b, c." Or, "the plunger should carry the ball around the loop xx% of the time from manual trigger, auto-plunge, etc." Or in terms of the T-Rex catch (which after all the physical issues have now been resolved for me) they could say, "success rates are dependent upon software updates, please refer to code update readme's past 0.xx up to 1.xx". I say this because I have to believe Stern has their own QC standard %'s when testing each game. If one or the other doesn't meet some threshold then it doesn't go out the door. It sounds like Stern can't really call those % out publicly but again I feel like they should. If I knew how often one or more any given "software" related action should fail, I may not be so attune to or concerned about things like the low % of the T-Rex catch.
Now, back to the customer service of my distributor... After jumping on the phone with him today I won't be asking for any refund. I was unaware that the amount of $ he's spent on sending his tech out has already obliterated his margin on the sale of my machine. He also expressed that mine has been an anomaly when it comes to the 10 LE's he sold. No one else has either a) had all of the same issues or b) has reported them (they may have fixed issues themselves or still haven't paid attention/cared). I trust now that I simply got a lemon, but one that can be sweetened back to expected. And Stern themselves have been good at sending me new parts (albeit a bit slow). In summary, I feel that my dist. is an amazing human being who is going above and beyond. He could have told me to F off but instead took losses to make sure all is right. And while I still have the T-Rex and plunger issues, I'm confident that he'll still run that to solution if needed.
Yes, the plunger is still an issue. I'm awaiting parts. The T-Rex has been fixed physically to where I can only imagine once Stern gets it right software wise, the catching issue will subside. fooflighter snaroff PM me if you want more specific answers to your questions.
I hope others don't have all of the same issues I'm having but if they do I hope their dist/seller is as communicative and helpful as mine has been.

Awesome! Hang in there. I was in the same boat with my first pins a year ago. Before you know it you'll be through the tweaking, adjusting, and fixing phase and just playing. I know it feels like a long slog now, but it'll be worth it in the end when it's all dialed in and playing great for you.

#3365 7 months ago
Quoted from Indusguys:

When I make a fast shot to the Trex ramp it is not registering. The opto is working but not registering really fast shots. The opto looks like it is aligned properly, anything else to check? These are shots when Trex is up out of the way.

Maybe try the tape fix? Put electrical tape over the bottom half of the opto opening. Helped on mine for both left orbit and T-Rex shots. Could be worth trying.

#3426 7 months ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Is this the fix everyone is going with?
I can always start T-REX multiball, but outside of that, when it comes to starting modes, it registers like 10-20% of the time.
Most shots just seem to bounce of the jaw and roll back down.
Makes it pretty hard to play the game.

Seems like the main physical adjustments are 1) making sure the jaw is touching the ramp when lowered, 2) an opto adjustment so it will register and trigger the magnet for the catch if the ball hops up a bit entering the ramp, and 3) maybe flipper power to some extent (reducing power a bit). Other than repair issues like screws falling out it seems to be a combination of those adjustments that’s helped a lot of people, including me. I haven’t played with the software adjustments at all though.

#3429 7 months ago
Quoted from hawkmoon77:

I just installed my shooter rod. When I lifted the playfield I found yet another screw and washer in the bottom of the cab. After I installed the rod, I lowered the PF and heard a rattle. Looked under it and there was another screw. This makes about 6 or so random washers and 4 screws that have fallen off or onto the PF from unknown sources. Is anyone else having this issue?

So far no screws in the bottom of the cabinet for me (probably just jinxed myself though). But I have been re-tightening the posts at the entrances to the ramps every couple weeks. Those and a couple other posts seem to loosen up pretty easily.

2 weeks later
#3670 6 months ago
Quoted from ShineSpark:

Hey guys,
So I'm ADORING!!! this game (got a premium) but as a first time pin owner I'm wondering if there are a few things I'm missing vis a vis proper setup. I know this is a difficult pin but my top score thus far is 550 mil and I can't seem to get anything going for the vast majority of my games. Haven't come close to any of the mini wizard modes even if I'm focusing on a single one because:
- Tons of outlane drains, often a surprise
- Brick many shots from the left flipper (A, O and S shots all difficult, C to a degree as well) I am much more able to make the loop and the tower shot from the upper flipper than make anything reliably from the lower flippers except for the middle spinner and the T-Rex ramp.
- Very hard to gain control of the ball and even post passes are tough
Now, I know, GIT GUD, but there's more to that I think, I'm 95 percent certain I just haven't dialed everything in properly? For example even though I have the pitch set to 6.5 degrees currently (steeper than the shooter lane level bubble setting) things feel a little sleepy around the flippers, dead bounces go all over the place. First thing I did was wipe the playfield and apply blitz, everything is lightning fast when the ball is in motion but I'm wondering if I should crank the back legs to get 7 degrees?
Also I'm running 0.96 (reset some of the default flipper power levels if I read the readme correctly) but I haven't messed around much with flipper strength which I plan on doing tomorrow. Again, the biggest issue for me is shots from the left flipper (C shot from the right is difficult but often manageable) so I will do some tests tomorrow but I'm curious as to how others have their power settings and if they've noticed a difference?
Perhaps with a steeper pitch and maybe some lowered power settings I'd be in business?
FYI my playfield looks to have no issues and my T-Rex grabs all direct shots and even some questionable ones. Very glad too that rejects seem to get credit to start a mode even if the Rex doesn't pick up the ball. My only concern right now is that my helicopter spinner seems to ever so slightly make contact with the wireform and I'm afraid to try and bend it too much because it exerts pressure on the slings. I've just applied a little pressure with my fingers and it seems to clear it for a few games before "tictictictic"

Seems like you’re on the right track. Definitely try adjusting flipper power also. Dialing it in is fun and takes fiddling with pitch and flipper power to find a setup you like. A slight difference in pitch can require a change to flipper power. The S shot shouldn’t be too difficult off the end of the flipper from a cradled ball. My experience overall has been that lowering flipper power helps.

For the helicopter spinner there was posting somewhat recently showing a good explanation of how to adjust it.

#3755 6 months ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Were you able to do this by just pulling the game out onto the service rails?
And are the nuts not easy to find? Looks like they're right out in the open.

Yes, you can do it by just pulling it out onto the service rails. If I remember correctly one of the nuts isn't visible and it's kind of a blind shot to get the nut driver onto it, but the nuts are in a symmetrical rectangle so you can get an educated guess on where to go after it based on the position of the others. I think it was the lower right nut (from the front as you're facing the back box) that was out of sight. Also, I think the T-Rex jaw closes after a few seconds so it may take a few tries setting the vertical position, opening the jaw, and tweaking the vertical position again, and lowering the jaw again to get it where you want it. There isn't much room in the screw holes to make a big change to the position of the mount, but it only took a very slight adjustment to make a difference.

#3756 6 months ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Were you able to do this by just pulling the game out onto the service rails?
And are the nuts not easy to find? Looks like they're right out in the open.

One other thing: Again if I'm remembering right I think the best way to adjust the nuts is with the T-Rex in the center position of the vertical test, not with it's jaw lowered. So check the jaw position, return the T-Rex to the middle position of the vertical test in software, adjust the nuts, lower the jaw & check it, then repeat as needed. I remember not being able to adjust the mount position very much if the T-Rex was in the upper or lower position of the vertical test.

#3762 6 months ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

But wouldn't the lower position allow you to adjust so it is lightly touching the ramp once the jaw opens?
In the middle position, how could you tell how closely it is contacting the ramp?

My recollection was that, for some reason, when the T-Rex was in the top or lower position of the test the bracket didn't move as much for an adjustment as it did when the T-Rex was in the middle position. I might be wrong, but I remember trying to adjust with the T-Rex in the lower position, and when I loosened the nuts to adjust it the bracket didn't move much. Then when I tried to adjust with the T-Rex in the middle position and loosened the nuts the bracket moved much more for an adjustment. Again, I don't know why that would be the case and I could be remembering wrong. I know I ended up adjusting with T-Rex in the middle position, re-tightened the nuts, used the test to lower it again and check it out, and then raised it back up to the middle position to adjust again a couple times before I got it set at a spot where the jaw was touching the ramp but wasn't so far down it would get stuck open. It might work other ways also. That's just how I did it. It took some trial and error.

#3825 6 months ago

Hate to bring up an old & aggravating topic, but has anyone heard anything about when Stern Jurassic Park shooter rods might be available again?

#3829 6 months ago
Quoted from Green-Machine:

Mine comes off the wire form and bounces from side to side and way out of reach of the upper flipper. Impossible to hit. Is this not the norm for others?

You mean when it’s coming off the pteranodon ramp? It should come off that wire form and immediately hug the ball guide and then transition smoothly onto the flipper.

#3885 6 months ago

Has anyone had an issue with their T-Rex pushing against the left ramp return wire form and making a grinding noise after it catches the ball and starts shaking around? I've noticed the past few weeks that when the T-Rex does it's thing moving back and forth with the ball in its mouth it will occasionally be too low as it shakes its head toward the center of the playfield and it ends up stuck against the wire form for a few seconds. It will start out swinging its head above the wire form, then as part of its dance it will lower while it's shaking its head and hit it. It then backs itself off & lifts up higher and usually drops the ball back onto the wire form, but the past few days it has sometimes not found the adjustment to find where to drop the ball on the wire.

Overall everything else seems to be working normal with it. The center position and vertical position look normal. It doesn't hit the wire form when it doesn't have a ball in its mouth. A lot of the time with the ball it does clear the wire form, but it seems to be happening more frequently that it sometimes doesn't and that grinding noise on the motor when it happens doesn't seem good. It seems like it's just bad choreography and the programming needs to have it hold its head higher, but I thought I'd check to see if anyone else is having this happen. Any ideas?

#3925 6 months ago
Quoted from Freakyguy666:

Just out of curiosity, if the trex were properly centered with the spacers removed from the ramp entrance cover, and ~1/4 of good shots still bounce off the Trex, would this imply flipper strength may need to be reduced? I’ve reduced mine to 235 for the right flipper and not sure if going lower would negatively affect other shots.

For me, reducing flipper strength a lot on all flippers has made the T-Rex, C lane, rapter tower, and S lane shots more reliable to make (not rattling out as much). There seems to be a balance to find in the setup between pitch angle and flipper power. I'd say definitely try a bunch of games lowering power by different amounts on each flipper until you feel like the shots are consistent for each one on your game.

#3928 6 months ago
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:

True. Took about an hour.....one ramp left to go, control tower.
Boy does the ball fly in Combos when the game is tweaked!

Nice! I dialed my upper right flipper back more than I guessed I would. Got fewer rattle outs and the ball still goes light speed around the left orbit. Isn’t that an amazing feeling when you string a couple fast shots together on this game? It just flows together so smoothly.

#3931 6 months ago
Quoted from bemmett:

What do you have your flippers set at for all of them? I get a ton of rattled balls as well, figured it was mostly my bad shooting but maybe this will help a little.

I spent a lot of time doing, umm... research? on my game last weekend. It sounds better to say it’s research instead of saying I was just having fun playing pinball right?

Probably the best adjustment I can make will be to improve my shooting skills though I currently have it at about 6.9 degrees by the flippers, and I’m pretty sure none of my flippers are above 230 for power (the lower right might be at 230 or 232 though, I forget where I’ve landed on it for now). I think I’ve even dialed the upper right all the way back to about 220. I’ll probably look again at increasing them a bit to see where I like I best though.

I think the most important adjustment I made was to get the ball to transition more smoothly from the ball guides to the upper right flipper and the left flipper. The ball was hopping out away from them instead of rolling smoothly down the face of them. HUGE difference in play once I adjusted that. I think it was much more important than pitch and flipper power.

I played a JP2 in Key West at an open air pizza place on Duval Street a couple weeks ago. It was set up really well and I’m trying to mimic the feel of that one on mine. For some reason I didn’t think to use the PinGuy app on the glass of it to check out the pitch to use as a reference. I guess I’ll just need to do more... umm... research this weekend

#3940 6 months ago
Quoted from JediMcMuffin:

Can you share your settings?

Yep, I can do it when I get home tonight. It would be neat if someday the machines could get connected to the internet and could share information to a Stern database. Then maybe we could see what percentage of people have each flipper power set at and get ideas from that as to where to start in tinkering with it.

#3948 6 months ago

Wow! Lots of good stuff in the update. Can’t wait to play more and explore it all!!!

Super Tranq = “Here Spiney Spiney Spiney” Boom!

#3949 6 months ago
Quoted from Caviel:

I wonder if this removes the need for raising/taping optos now.

Also awesome, I can re-enable the knock sound again.

Seems like it should, unless the ball is blowing through all the optos in the entire orbit too fast. I’m wondering if this update could lead to some false orbit credits during multiball if a slow ball only passes the entrance opto while another ball triggers a switch or a different opto in the orbit.

#3954 6 months ago
Quoted from JediMcMuffin:

Can you share your settings?

I’ve got 6.9 pitch. Upper right flipper 216. Right flipper 229. Left 230.

#3959 6 months ago

I played some again this evening and was still frustrated by the slight hop remaining in the transition to the left flipper from the ball guide. It looks like the issue is that the ball guide isn’t a fraction of an inch past the pivot end of the flipper like it is on the right. That hop away from the flipper is why I’ve had to dial down the right flipper power so much. Here are pictures of my right and left taken at identical angles. The guide from the right isn’t blocked by the flipper but the left just barely is. Doesn’t look like I can adjust the guide. Is it possible to adjust the flipper position a bit in the hole?

29E2224C-C33D-4923-8EFB-13DBECE3FDF6 (resized).jpegF8831A11-7F66-4E7C-BF1E-C9276CC89724 (resized).jpeg
#3960 6 months ago

Is it my hearing or is there a new actor doing a bunch of the old call outs?

#3975 6 months ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

You can adjust the guides slightly. Loosen all 4 screws in the guide and then while holding the guide in the desired position, test a couple ball rolls and when satisfied, retighten...it doesn't take much...

As the game says, "REMARKABLE!!!" Thank you so much!!! That did it for me. I was just barely able to get the probably 1/16" of play in the guide I needed and now the ball seamlessly transitions and rolls down the face of the flipper. I just tested it in game play too and, Scouts honor, my first two shots off the plunge were left ramp skill shot followed by S lane on the fly. Then just a couple shots later I did the same combo on the fly again. The ball hasn't had flow to that flipper and the S lane like that since the game was delivered. After I played the machine in Key West I knew mine was lacking on that shot and this got me there. This is really going to open up the game for me. Thank you again!!!

#3976 6 months ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

I heard him too on a bunch of callouts...It almost sounds like David Harbour (Hopper from Stranger Things)

Lol. Maybe they offered him some pizza and beer to stay a bit longer and record a few extra callouts and told him they're for Stranger Things.

#3983 6 months ago
Quoted from per3per3:

Question regarding the smart missle awards. I've read that you can select different awards before taking the shot via the action button. How do I know what award is being selected? When the ball is trapped and the smart missle countdown is occurring, I push the action button and can hear different sounds but don't seem to understand how I know what award I'm selecting. I watch the screen but don't see any visual indicators.

It’s written on the bottom of the screen and you’ll see the selection change as you push the button. The lettering doesn’t really jump out so it’s not really noticeable until you realize it’s there and you know where to look, but it’s there.

#4028 6 months ago

I'm still really digging the new code. Played a bunch the last two nights and several times heard a call out for the super tranquilizer. Is that awarding another one or is it just reminding me I still have my original one to use? I think it's saying "Super Tranq loaded" or something like that. The code update notes say the award of a super tranq isn't stackable and is re-lit with raptor tower awards but they don't say how many raptor tower shots are required, so I'm not positive if it's awarding me a new tranq on that callout or not. If it is a new one, then I should probably be using my original one sooner instead of hanging onto it and then getting the reload to use on T-Rex or Spiny, right? This code has been fun to play from day 1 and just keeps adding really great stuff.

After adjusting the ball guides to the left and upper right flippers last night my game is playing COMPLETELY different (in a good way). I'm not having to fight it anymore to make shots and combos. I thought it had great flow and shots before, but now everything is even WAY better and it's amazing. I was able to kick my left flipper power up and now I can hit the S lane on the fly and still pull the ball through the spinner lane and sometimes to the T-Rex mouth, and also still backhand the raptor pit. Really lets me pick whatever path I want to go for. Until now POTC was still my favorite game to play, but with JP2 dialed in like this it's just incredible and right there with it.

#4031 6 months ago
Quoted from Freakyguy666:

So what’s your left flipper power at now? >235?

I bumped the left one up to 242. I kept the right flipper where it was though for making the T-Rex catch.

#4047 6 months ago
Quoted from kse001:

Old question, but I've reviewed the key indexed posts and they don't seem to help: my T-rex jaw is about half to 3/4 of an inch above the ramp when opened, so it obviously never catches any balls. I've tried following the instructions given (as I understand them, anyway) and loosened the 4 nuts holding the motor bracket, but there does not seem to be any way to adjust it so the head goes lower. I can push the bracket down a bit which makes the head go higher, but I am not able to pull the bracket any higher to make the head go lower. Am I misunderstanding the instructions and/or doing something wrong?

I had my best results adjusting the T-Rex bracket when the head was in the middle position of the vertical motor test. I remember when it was in the lower position of that test I wasn't able to adjust the bracket much, so I moved it to the vertical motor position, adjusted the nuts, re-tightend them, put the playfield back into position, and then did the jaw lowering test again. It was a bit of a pain to have to keep moving the playfield back and forth from the service position and moving the T-Rex back and forth from the lower to the middle position of the test before adjusting the bracket, but I found I was able to adjust it better while the T-Rex was in that middle position. Hope this helps.

#4067 6 months ago
Quoted from kse001:

Thanks. I tried again today and made sure to center the head before trying to adjust but it's still not working. I have the bracket as high as I can get it because the screws with the nuts are butted up against the very edge of the "U" shaped notches in the motor bracket so it physically can't move any higher. I tried loosening the machine screws on the upper portion of the mech (where the head is attached) to see if there was any play there that would help but no-go. I guess I'll contact Stern for advice.

Bummer. Hope you can get it worked out. I don’t know if it will help but I just took this picture of my bracket to maybe use as a reference point if you want to see if your bracket is in about the same position relative to the cutout hole.

9558F21F-1EFE-40CD-AA7D-CDD9022E6B98 (resized).jpeg
#4122 5 months ago
Quoted from EightBallTexas:

I am unboxing stuff and just opened my new lighted frame . Here are 2 pictures. One is the Stern and one is from midcoastsurf.
You guys decide which one you like better. A video would be better as the new frame kicks ass. Love the options to change things up.
I need to find a new translite to trade or buy with someone . I dont need both the same. One came with the trade.
Now my collection is complete. Yes I know...famous last words.[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from EightBallTexas:

What's up All,
Long time no see. I just got home for a brutal 12 day biz trip. I see we have a new code.
Time to install and pay some attention to Sue.
Have a great day.

Brutal 12 day biz trip? Looks more like you've been running around with another machine behind our backs

#4125 5 months ago
Quoted from EightBallTexas:

That was before I left...LOL.
I wish I didnt have to go and just stay home playing my 3 pins. HAHA

LOL, a player’s got to play!

#4131 5 months ago
Quoted from crwjumper:

I got something pretty cool to go with my premium at Expo. During the "Making of Jurassic Park seminar Keith gave me a signed one-of-one CAD drawing that they used to create the game. Going to frame it up eventually and hang it over the game.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Very nice! That’s really incredible!!!

#4156 5 months ago
Quoted from jfaulkner56:

I've done some searches and looked at the various Trex adjustment key posts and can't find where it talks about adjusting the Trex so it drops the ball properly on the ramp after it's fed. It seems to catch the ball fine... but when it goes to drop the ball on the ramp safely it drops it just short of the ramp. Is there a way to adjust for that without throwing off the calibration for when it eats the ball? Thanks!

I don't remember an issue like that being mentioned before.

#4162 5 months ago
Quoted from jfaulkner56:

I think I already have that disabled. I believe he's trying to calmly drop it on the ramp. He's just coming up short.

Yep, even with the throw set at "no" it should still place it on the wire for you.

#4177 5 months ago
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:

Im Happy here.....Debating whether to hold the sign with two Torches, lit with really cool 36 SMD
Fire bulbs.
[quoted image]

LOL, I'm debating why you're debating whether or not to do it Would probably look great!

#4268 5 months ago
Quoted from Aetos:

When should the post go up when you shoot the right orbit is it every time?

I think it only happens when the truck is pointing right and it does not come up when the truck is left.

#4276 5 months ago
Quoted from 85vett:

Does this also happen in CHAOS MB?

I don’t know. Lol, during CHAOS I guess I’ve always been too focused on the balls at the flippers to notice if the post is coming up.

1 week later
#4390 5 months ago
Quoted from Manny65:

My raptor isn't moving, it moves freely by hand and doesn't seem to be getting caught on anything (as per the issues previously posted). I noticed the screw under the raptor on the metal bracket was loose, however when I tighten it the metal arm that makes the raptor lean forward doesn't move at all.
Has anyone got closeup photos of how this mechanism should look or be assembled (the manual doesn't show this)? Does the vertical component of the metal arm sit in front of the target in the raptor pit, so the ball hits it which pushes against the target switch and flips the back up to knock the raptor forward? Or does that piece sit behind the target? I've tried both but neither work.
Any help appreciated[quoted image]

I just looked at mine. The front plate of the bracket is in front of the target, so it gets hit and then pushes into the target. It seems like the bracket should only be held in place by a pin through the front that it pivots on. I circled one side of the pin in my picture. The screw in the middle of the bracket isn’t supposed to block the bracket or be holding the bracket down at all.

58EBAB0E-6B35-49C4-AA40-1AA0A2545E8C (resized).jpeg
#4391 5 months ago
Quoted from Green-Machine:

What is this?(within the circle pictured) My raptor does not have this
[quoted image]

That’s the hex post holding up the clear plastic piece between the raptor and the cabinet.

#4444 5 months ago
Quoted from per3per3:

I have a premium and freaking loving it. Luckily, I haven't experienced many of the issues discussed on this thread except for my TREX doesn't always grab the ball. I have read the threads and the key posts and I'm going to adjust the left/right bias to better center the mouth when lowered on the ramp. What is happening is that the ball sometimes just hits his open mouth with no catch. The lower jaw seems properly adjusted on the vertical axis, so I'm assuming it's an opto not registering properly issue. I read about the tape hack fix on the lower portion of the ramp entrance optos, the more permanent opto shim fix, as well as the removal of the ramp entrance black plastic spacers.
I'm curious for folks to weigh in to see what fixes they've applied to success. The removal of the black plastic spacers seems quite easy, but I'm concerned that, if lowered, the roof plastic at the ramp entrance will potentially clip the ball on faster moving shots and prevent it from going up the ramp smoothly. Perhaps that's not the case, but figured I'd ping the community to see what folks have observed.

Similar to yours, mine was working pretty well initially but some clean shots weren’t being caught. I did the tape fix and it made a difference. After that almost all shots that should be caught were being caught.

#4448 5 months ago
Quoted from per3per3:

Appreciate your response, but I'd prefer not employing the tape fix since it doesn't look very good. Was hoping to get some feedback on the removal of the black spacers fix

I tried removing the spacers and for my machine it didn’t improve the results. After I did the tape fix and it improved things I put the spacers back on.

#4450 5 months ago
Quoted from woody76:

I must have missed it, but what is the tape fix? Mine rarely misses a ball so I might not even need it anyway

It involves putting electrical tape across the lower part of the opening in the guide rail for the opto beam. This helps the opto trigger on fast shots by preventing light from bleeding around the lower part of the ball, which can result in the opto beam not being broken long enough to register on a fast moving shot. I did it on the opto for the left orbit also. Here’s a link to a post I made when I did mine. First pic shows tape on the orbit opto and the T-Rex ramp. Second pic is just the ramp.


#4491 5 months ago
Quoted from yancy:

One time my t-rex stopped capturing right after a code update. Turns out it was a complete coincidence. One of the screws on top of the ramp entry post worked itself loose, allowing the clear plastic roof to ride up, which was all it took for the ball to jump the opto.

But how is that possible when the opto is INSIDE the T-Rex mouth? Lol. I couldn't resist that one. Just intended as a little humor

#4522 5 months ago
Quoted from yancy:

This is simply incorrect. Try it with the glass off. Ramp opto activates the magnet. Mouth opto by itself does nothing.

It's on a short timer.

I think Yancy is right about this. And I think Keith Elwin is probably right about it also. From Keith Elwin:
“If the ball goes into the mouth but doesn't grab try removing the spacers on the clear roof plastic at the front of the ramp. This is there to make sure the ball trips the ramp optic in order to fire the mouth magnet.”

Here’s a link to the post where he wrote it:

#4524 5 months ago

Anyone noticed a bug, glitch, or whoopsie with the interaction between the start of a T-Rex mode and the smart missile? Last night I started T-Rex multiball with a shot caught by the T-Rex. With the ball in it’s mouth, There was a callout saying smart missile ready and the post at the left inlane came up and went right back down. The T-Rex released the ball to the wire return and I flipped it, then right after I flipped it the smart missile countdown started. It seemed like the ball rolling over the inlane switch activated smart missile but the post wasn’t up.

Then tonight it was weird again. I started T-Rex multiball with a shot that wasn’t caught and the smart missile ready callout happened. The ball happened to go into the inlane and the post came up while the T-Rex multiball intro played. Then it suddenly flashed into the smart missile countdown but only said “3” and then the post went down. It didn’t finish the countdown beyond 3 and it didn’t let me choose the smart missile reward.

Just wondering if anyone noticed anything similar.

1 week later
#4541 4 months ago
Quoted from wheels:

I still need to try this. It may work, but regardless, my auto plunger gets progressively weaker throughout the game. Seems as if it's a problem on many Sterns.
I will also try reflowing solder to the joints. (Read in an older topic that the solder joint may not be conducting as well when it heats up.)
I will also perhaps try adding a cabinet bumper or something below the link just below the playfield that effectively places more of the plunger in the coil. (Also read this somewhere else.)
Anyone else experiencing weaker auto plunges the longer you play? Any other thoughts?

My auto plunger started getting really weak. I took the coil sleeve out and cleaned it out a bit, reassembled it, and it went back to firing 100% again. If I'd had the right size coil sleeve on hand I would have replaced it but just taking it out and cleaning it a bit seemed to do the trick. Of course it also might not have been the coil sleeve and instead something else might have been out of whack that I didn't realize and it got set back into alignment without me knowing it when I did this, but whatever was causing it got sorted out by removing & replacing the coil sleeve and now it's working great again.

#4548 4 months ago
Quoted from wheels:

I will keep this in mind. I can't get out of my mind how it seems fine when I first begin playing and then after a while it gets weaker. It seems to me, then, it may be electrical; e.g., cold solder joint. I'll just need to get in there and try some fixes. Replacing the coil sleeve will be high on my list. Thank you for the tip.

Mine was the same getting weaker as the game went on. I even cranked coil power way up and it had no effect - it was still weak and didn’t increase the launch power. I don’t know for sure whether or not the sleeve was the issue but taking it out, moving the plunger a couple times by hand with it out, and putting it back together somehow solved it on mine. On the first launch after I did that I’d forgotten to lower the coil power back down and it ripped out of there. This was about a week ago and so far it’s stayed strong. Hope you get yours figured out.

#4553 4 months ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Another issue I am having is that the flippers seem to be a lot weaker than when I initially started playing the game out of the box. I have other Sterns that have the same snappy power even after years of play.
I changed the coil stops but that did not do anything.
Anyone else experience this? Any suggestions?

LOL, after my last couple posts this is going to sound like I think coil sleeves are always the issue, but here goes anyway. I think it’s worth changing the flipper coil sleeves to see if it helps, since it’s something that probably needs to be done occasionally anyway. On my POTC the flippers lost their snappiness and I replaced the sleeves (the old ones coming out looked like they’d been in a coal mine) and cleaned off the mechanics and the snappiness returned. Not necessarily what’s going on with yours but replacing the sleeves and cleaning off the flipper linkages & joints is at least one thing worth trying before moving on to troubleshooting possible causes that are more complicated.

#4554 4 months ago
Quoted from yancy:

There's a new factory fix for the ramp otpo issue, involving this bad boy right here:
[quoted image]
Installation photos & instructions to come.

Do we need to contact Stern now to request it?

#4556 4 months ago
Quoted from yancy:


Not sure yet. I'm going to install mine today and post instructions.

Yeah, contact Stern is what I was told. Maybe you can get it through your distributor as well? But I usually cut out the middle man for this kinda stuff.

Sounds good. Really appreciate the heads up. Thank you!

#4585 4 months ago
Quoted from m00nmuppet:

We have hit the 1.0 ! !
V1.00.0 - February 19, 2020
- When Dinosaurs Ruled The Earth - added a new Ultra Wizard Mode that is started if you complete Visitor Center, Museum Mayhem, Secure Control Room and Escape Nublar
- Escape Nublar - added intro blowoff when you press both flipper buttons
- Escape Nublar - extra balls awarded after starting Escape Nublar will award consolation points (15M)
- Escape Nublar Challenge - initial path you are spotted is determined by the direction of the Truck when the mode starts
- Visitor Center - fixed an issue where the Inlane Up Post would not come up to catch ball during a Fossil award / Tilt warning
- DNA Combos - now enabled
- DNA Combos - sound effect will now happen the moment the combo is achieved, the display effect may be queued up and displayed later if necessary
- DNA Combos - some of the harder combos have been made easier (check Instant Info for details)
- Super Combos - now score 5X instead of 3X
- Perfect Paddock - added a bonus 2x paddock bounty if all the staff is rescued from a paddock
- Super Combos - added new compy attack videos for super combos
- Instant Info - updated Rescues info page to track current percentage of staff rescued
- Instant Info - added instant info page to track DNA combos and how to collect them
- Instant Info - added instant info page to track Wildcard Fossils collected and how to collect them
- Skill Shot - added Ultra Super Skill Shot which starts a special hidden feature for that player's game
- Skill Shot - added MXV Skill Shot
- High Score Tables - added When Dinosaurs Ruled The Earth Champion
- High Score Tables - added Skill Shot Champion
- High Score Tables - added DNA Champion
- Raptor Tower Combos - fixed an issue where the tower combo text was occasionally being formatted improperly
- Action Button - fixed an issue where the lockdown button would turn green with no credits in the game
- Speech - fixed an issue where instruction speech could be heard after end ball
- Credit / Partial Credit Sounds - updated sound effects
- System - Updated to V2.44.0
- Updated to nodeboard firmware v0.57.0
- Updated 10 band graphic EQ to have 15 slider settings (was 120) above/below the
neutral center line.
- Rename Util->Volume->Speaker Balance to Speaker Fade. This adjusts the volume
levels of the cabinet (front) and backbox (back) speakers. The term Balance
was misleading and implied adjusting the level of the left and right backbox speakers.
- Adjustment Changes:
- removed 'NUBLAR CHALLENGE ON START PRESS' in favor of Standard Adjustment 'GAME MODE ON START' in the SPI adjustments. Defaults to STANDARD, set to CHALLENGE to always start Escape Nublar Challenge on start button press.

Wow! This looks amazing. New wizard mode, new skill shots with hidden feature. Awesome. Where do we think the new skill shots are? Maybe one would be an add on to the current double shot by finishing it with the smart missile shot? Can't wait to find it!

#4646 4 months ago
Quoted from wheels:

For my auto plunger issue - weak after playing a while - I installed a washer under left fork, pulled coil and sleeve and plunger apart and put back together, and re-flowed solder on a joint, and still have the same problem.
Stern tech support told me to switch node boards 8 and 9 to determine if node board before trying new coil.
Nobody else experiencing this?

The weak launch problem recurred on mine last weekend. I tried the same thing as before (removing the coil sleeve and working the plunger manually a bit) to see if whatever resolved it that time would work again but it didn’t work. So I started pushing a bit on connections. I pushed on the two wires connected directly to the coil and the connectors at the board and reseated the Ethernet cable on the board. All connections looked good but thought I’d try it anyway. Turned the machine back on and the plunge was back to 100% again. So now I’m thinking the only two spots in common that I moved/jostled both the first time it happened and this time are the two wire connections directly on the coil. They look solid but they might be loose somehow. If/when it happens again my plan is to only push on those two spots first to see if it resolves, and if so then that must be the problem spot. If not then it will probably mean one of the connections at the board is the issue.

#4649 4 months ago
Quoted from HurryUpPinball:

Thanks for the info. I took everything apart last night thinking it was the tiny gap between the rail guide and the wire guide in the orbit. Turn out it is a little cradle formed between the wire guide and the one way gate. When it is barely moving thru the gate, the gate and ball guide make a cradle. This only happens when the ball barely makes it through the gate. In my picture, that is the gate in the resting position.[quoted image]

Does anyone know if there’s a relatively easy way to take the wire off the gate and put it back on? I’ve looked at this cradle spot on my machine and it seems like bending the bottom of the wire down so it doesn’t extend out so far while also bending the U-shape that keeps it locked in the gate (to allow it to pivot up more for balls to pass under it) could eliminate the cradle spot for balls sticking there.

But it seems like there isn’t an easy way to get the wire off it to do the bending, and I tried bending it in place but it was a bit dicey doing that.

#4654 4 months ago
Quoted from JP76:

I removed mine and worked on it. I removed wire form (3 screws). Then I removed the rail that the bracket is attached to. First you have to remove the plastic piece that’s on top of it. The rail has one screw on top of the PF and one nut below the PF. You may also have to remove the roof on the tower to get the wire form back on. It really wasn’t bad. I had few issues with that gate and decided to do what was necessary to work on it.

Thanks. That’s what I was thinking. Not complicated to get at it but not simple. Looks like a good thing to take a look at on the weekend.

#4655 4 months ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

When I was monkeying with mine before I made the realization that all I had to do was lift the gate up a little bit I used some needle nose pliers and was able to take wire out that way..problem with bending the gate down and I think the reason they made it this way was to prevent ball rattling and allow a smoother flow through that lane pretty much the only reason I can see why the gate is angled and not straight vertical but it does make that CradlePoint an issue that if not installed from the factory just at the right height will cause a ball hang

So it was possible to turn it a couple different directions and get that curved end out and then put it back in? I might give that a try. Thanks.

#4656 4 months ago

5 months in and I’m still completely hooked on this game. The ball is flying through all the different shots, and all the different modes and rules just go so well together. I still haven’t made Visitor Center but I’m feeling it within reach now. What a game!!!

#4678 4 months ago
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:

Loaded 1.0, and Trex, for me, has improved!
Movement, Catch, and throw, I am seeing almost 100% now.
Love the DNA changes....
Still not sure on how to get the Fossils?

Fossil collection summary from Tiltforums rule sheet:
Set 1
Ankylosaurus - Collect both Raptor Super Jackpots
Brachiosaurus - Complete your 1st T-Rex mode
Set Reward - 20 million and +10x Pteranodon Multiplier (one time only)
Set 2
Velociraptor - Complete your 2nd T-Rex mode
Spinosaurus - Collect a Chaos Hurry-Up Super Jackpot
Gallimimus - Complete your 1st Control Room mode
Set Reward - 35 million and awards an Extra Ball
Set 3
Triceratops - Complete your 2nd Control Room mode
T. Rex - Complete your 3rd T. Rex mode
Dilophosaurus - Complete your 3rd Control Room mode
Set Reward - 100 million and +10x Amber (one time only)
Set 4
Compsognathus - Complete Visitor’s Center
Pteranodon - Complete Museum Mayhem
Stegosaurus - Complete Secure Control Room
Set Reward - 250 million and +10 Rescues

Wildcard fossils at:
Smart Missile (choices 3 or 4 might be “Fossil”)
6-Way Combo
25 Rescues
25 Tower Shots
28 Loops
Collect a 50M+ Pteranadon Attack shot

#4686 4 months ago
Quoted from Braindance:

I was also wondering about any bugs people may have noticed. I have mine in a bar and it's very popular, so I don't want to annoy players with any issues. I saw a couple people mention the skill shot not hitting. Anything else worth noting?

I haven't noticed anything major. My skill shots are working. Only bug I've seen is a minor one when starting a T-Rex mode when the smart missile shot is ready. Post comes up and then goes back down. Not a huge deal though.

#4708 4 months ago
Quoted from LoganJK:

Can you not adjust the coil strength on the flippers? I can't find it?

In menu select Adj, then Game, and then the flipper strength adjustments are somewhere around adjustment #290-300. Go backwards from #1 to find it fastest.

#4724 4 months ago
Quoted from LoganJK:

So after about 1000 plays our left flipper is very weak. The coil and sleeve both look normal and clean. Is step 1 replace the coil and see if that fixes it?

I’d check the coil stop first. There have been a lot of issues with them. Here’s a post showing a picture of the problem. If it looks like the rivet is there still take it off to check it though because it the rivet could be there and look secure when it’s actually not attached anymore.


#4764 4 months ago
Quoted from Green-Machine:

How many of you suck at playing your JP?
I do!!

I’m in that club! It feels so good hitting shots and combos one minute and then I just lose the feel suddenly. If I could hit the right ramp consistently I’d do a lot better, but for some reason I just can’t find it very well. I hit the raptor tower, C lane and helipad a lot more reliably than the right ramp. Having tons of fun playing this game every day though!

#4776 4 months ago

In the middle of a game tonight I hit the first three shots of the skill shot on a new ball and when the ball came down the wire from the raptor tower the smart missile shot started, so I couldn't take the shot at the O lane to complete the skill shot. I hit abort smart missile hoping the lane would stay lit for it but it didn't. I'm 99% sure I only had a 1% chance of making the fourth shot, but still... Anyone else notice this happen?

#4781 4 months ago
Quoted from Aetos:

I have made the last skillshot several times but haven’t seen any special hidden feature?

I’ve hit it only once or twice and also wasn’t able to figure out what the added feature was. I’m guessing I didn’t make it far enough in the game to find out.

#4783 4 months ago
Quoted from per3per3:

If you're talking about the new 4th shot in the skill shot involving the O lane (left ramp, right ramp, side "ramp", and O lane), you get an audio and video callout and an extra bonus. I forgot what it's called exactly, but it's a something like a double-super skill shot. It's hard to miss but the ball does have to make it cleanly up through the O lane and trip the right orbit opto to register.

That could be all there is. The release notes for 1.00 said the following so I’ve been thinking there’s more to it.

- Skill Shot - added Ultra Super Skill Shot which starts a special hidden feature for that player's game

1 week later
#4841 3 months ago
Quoted from ViperNation:

Just reported the following defect to Stern following an upgrade of my LE from .97 to 1.00. I think someone else mentioned something similar on this forum but can't find it at the moment.
Previous versions of the code have the lower left post come up and stay up for a few seconds, then it would drop, allowing for proper aiming of the smart missile target. In V 1.00 (and possibly .98 which I skipped) the post pops up randomly at some point with the ball nowhere near and then immediately drops, resulting in the smart missile missing 100% of the time.

Yep it's happened to me when a T-Rex mode is starting and smart missile is qualified, and I first noticed it after 1.00 code. Ball comes down the wire and the post pops up but drops right back down and the ball rolls through while the smart missile countdown starts. Probably a bug that they'll address.

#4896 3 months ago
Quoted from Arcade:

Just got our Premium in and set up yesterday.
Two quick questions that I’m sure are answered in this thread someplace already.
1. Where should the tip of the upper flipper point to on the black post below it?
Ours is set from the factory off to the right so that when a ball comes around it will pop off the post. Is that normal?

That flipper alignment is as designed. Here's what Keith Elwin posted about lining up flippers with the alignment holes:


#4916 3 months ago
Quoted from EightBallTexas:

While we stuck in our homes, what cool things have happened on your pins??
So bored.................man i wish I had 10 pins...lol.

I dunno what happened but it seemed like my pins got turbo juice today. They're all playing faster off all coils (flippers, pops, everything). Out of nowhere and completely by accident I made it up the T-Rex ramp backhanded from a cradle at the left flipper (I was shooting for the spinner lane). Also (again by accident), a shot made it all the way up the tower ramp from the left flipper off a bounce off the post at the tip of the upper right flipper (shooting for the O lane). Neither of those shots had happened on my machine before in all the games I've played. Then within a minute of it happening the first time another shot from the left made it up the tower off of the same post bounce. So twice in a minute after never happening before. And coil settings hadn't been changed.

It might have something to do with the line power coming into the house changing. Houses across the street had power out today. Last time I noticed this type of extra juice on my pins the transformer on the pole behind our house blew a day or two later. Fingers crossed it doesn't happen again, but in the meantime... turbo pinball is fun!

#4917 3 months ago
Quoted from EightBallTexas:

While we stuck in our homes, what cool things have happened on your pins??
So bored.................man i wish I had 10 pins...lol.

Just played a few games from my knees for the heck of it. It was kind of fun. Kind of a neat view with the ball coming more right at your eyes. And yes it’s been cool and wet outside for a week on top of shelter in place so me doing this is definitely a sign we’re getting a bit stir crazy.

#4935 3 months ago

FINALLY made it to Visitor's Center!!! Had been getting to the last paddock for weeks and finally broke through. Got a 240M bonus, and then of course proceeded to drain ridiculously quickly and only got 10M on the mode. This game just got its hooks into me even deeper. Too much fun!!!

#4939 3 months ago
Quoted from per3per3:

Could you possibly post a few pics of your properly aligned upper flipper? I just re-aligned mine so that the tip of the flipper was centered on the post...this provides a little more clearance to hit that shot up the 180 ramp. As others have recently pointed out, I'm now experiencing close to center drains if I hit that loop and just let it come down to the lower flippers. I read Keith's post but could really use a few visuals of how a properly aligned upper flipper looks from the player's perspective and close up.

Here’s a picture of mine. Edge of the flipper should be lined up with the guide hole at the end of the poorly drawn red arrow. Mine should probably even go another fraction of an inch back toward the S lane. Hope this helps.

52F6C224-D407-4901-A305-46121A71049A (resized).jpeg24B27CEE-EB8F-4E1A-89D3-7E1AC3FA6477 (resized).jpeg
#4944 3 months ago
Quoted from per3per3:

Interesting...I appreciate the pic. I'm pretty sure that mine was adjusted like yours from the factory. I just felt like many shots to the 180 ramp were clipping the flipper rubber and losing steam and thus not making it up the "ramp." After adjusting to center the flipper tip to the post, I can make more successful shots up the 180...it's actually a noticeable improvement. That said, now the ball will loop and hit the tip of the lower right flipper. It's not a drain, but if you don't see it coming than it could be.
With your alignment, what the ball do on both fast and slow loops?

On mine, for slow and medium speed loops the ball falls down off the guide and hugs the face of the flipper, so it then takes a more noticeable hop off the post. On fast and really fast loops the ball doesn't fall down off the guide and hug the face of the flipper as much, so sometimes it will catch a bit of the post and sometimes will miss it. Overall I don't have issues with SDTM coming from the loop though. It happens only once in a great while and pretty much only during multiball when I don't have a chance to see it coming and try to clip it with the end of the flipper. Now of course I'm sure I just jinxed myself with that

#4945 3 months ago
Quoted from bgwilly31:

Is adjusting flipper alignment easy ive never done it before.
My Upper flipper has definitely started to sag.

Mechanically it's pretty straightforward. Just one spot to loosen and then move the flipper and crank it tight again. The trickier part is 1) holding the flipper still when you re-tighten so it ends up aligned where you want it and 2) making sure you don't have the flipper sitting higher or lower from the playfield (the flipper gap) than it was before you loosened it. I think the rule of thumb is a credit card should fit between the playfield and flipper. I've only done it once myself.

#4952 3 months ago
Quoted from Patcraig1:

You ever get that sinking feeling when you get your first NIB pin, get it all set up, play a couple of games and on the 3rd game the machine suddenly goes dark and quiet? In the middle of a game. dead. no sound, no display no lights.
Then you check the outlet, check the power cable, check the fuse in the back box,
then you see the little red lights on the CPU and on the node boards are lit nicely, but nothing else? so you
re-seat the smart card, check every.single.connector.not.once.but.twice and still nuthin?
I was prepared to play for hours tonight ...but now I wait for a new CPU to be sent to me. I hope that's really the issue.
Good news is that Chris at Cointaker and Pablo at Stern were fantastically responsive and are on it! Cointaker (Melissa) rocks for even getting my JP Pre shipped to me during these trying times. gratitude.

Ugh, it'd be a big understatement to say that's a bummer! Awesome that they're getting you what you need for it though. Hope you can get it up and running soon.

#4978 3 months ago
Quoted from jacksparrow0112:

Looking for some help eliminating 2 areas that are currently causing stuck balls. One area is on the end of the gate into the pops. Seems to get hung up here a lot. In area 2, the plastic ceiling between the control room target and the raptor target seems to sag and really cause stuck balls. Shaking to the point of tilting doesn’t even budge it. Would love to know how to fix both of these. Thanks![quoted image][quoted image]

For the gate in the pops, have you checked that your machine is level left to right? I just took the glass off mine and tried to place a ball there and it wouldn’t stay. That gate and rubber are sloped to let the ball roll away. I then tried to recreate your picture to compare my gate to yours. See my picture below. Mine doesn’t look like it’s set up much different from yours, but if your machine is level then maybe try adjusting your gate so it rests a fraction of an inch further out.

For the stuck ball in the raptor cage have you tried loosening the screw I circled in red in your picture below (or another screw in that area that might be holding that plastic tight)? Loosening it just a bit might give it enough wiggle to not have the ball stick there. Just an idea and I don’t know though if loosening it too much might increase the risk of the plastic breaking.

71D480AE-02B3-408E-8CA3-67BA331AFA78 (resized).jpegE970D55F-57B7-446A-9EF7-329FF06CE823 (resized).jpeg
#4979 3 months ago
Quoted from ShineSpark:

Hi folks,
So I managed to reattach my Trex's jaw when it fell off but ever since the head has been on the low side of things.
I am trying to adjust as per one of the pinned posts but I find it very hard to get in behind there. When I slide the playfield out towards the front of the pin as far as the resting rails underneath will allow, there's still not a terrific amount of room to maneuver behind the Trex head.
Am I missing something? Pretty new at this. The only other position I can think of is to see if I can go further, and rest the rails on a table of appropriate height right in front of the pin?
Thanks for rescuing an idiot!

I don’t think you’re missing anything. There isn’t a lot of room to get at that area and it’s a bit of an awkward angle to get at it.

#4993 3 months ago
Quoted from Arcade:

Takes a bit of tweaking but we finally have our game really dialed in and smooth.
Just got finished fixing a little bit of ball hop on the left flipper by loosening up the lane guide screws and pushing up slightly and then tightening them back down. Smooth as glass now.
Also lowered the flipper power a bit as per all the instructions in this thread and that really helped a lot as well.
The only issue left and it does not effect game play, is that when our T-Rex roars he will swing his head towards the left side of the cabinet (his right) and bash our electric fence post with all the wires on it.
He hits it fairly hard, but not enough to snap it off, yet.
I hate to mess with him because he is great on the ramp ball pick up and every place else. Just that he loves to roar and slam the hell out of that fence post.
Is there a setting to stop this?

Mine's been hitting against that post since I got it out of the box in Sept., and it hasn't caused a problem so far.

#5016 3 months ago
Quoted from LMTLESS:

Left ramp (TREX) skill shot... I have a new JP Premium and after about 2 weeks of using it, the left ramp TREX is not registering 25% of my skill shots. Any suggestions?

This post had some info that might help. I think the left ramp test is under Diagnostics/Game.


#5056 89 days ago