(Topic ID: 248218)

Welcome To The Jurassic Park Prem/LE Club!!

By Royale-W-Cheese

4 years ago


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18 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

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Post #885 TECH: PLAYFIELD. T-Rex alignment bulletin from Stern. Posted by pickleric (4 years ago)

Post #1396 TECH: PLAYFIELD. Shooter fix Posted by Chambahz (4 years ago)

Post #1619 read before dismantling the raptor Posted by timlah79 (4 years ago)

Post #1830 TECH: PLAYFIELD. T-Rex adjustment info according to Keith Elwin Posted by sk8ball (4 years ago)

Post #2358 TREX Adjustment info Posted by imagamejunky (4 years ago)

Post #2625 TECH: PLAYFIELD. Raptor pit detailed adjustment instructions. Posted by yancy (4 years ago)

Post #2994 TECH: PLAYFIELD. T-Rex head removal tips and Jaw screw fix. Posted by f3honda4me (4 years ago)

Post #3326 Amber Bonus rules and details Posted by fooflighter (4 years ago)

Post #3417 TECH: SWITCHES. Opto sensor not registering on orbit fix Posted by caker137 (4 years ago)


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#806 4 years ago
Quoted from hawkmoon77:

No. This is by the apron. The other area already has some paint removed, but I didn't make a big deal about it because it is mostly where you can't see it. I'm not a nit-picky guy, so I just ignored it. But this is kind of in your face.
My dealer had two boxes next to each other and asked which number I wanted. I guess I picked the wrong one.

Bummer that happened. Just my impression but it seems like this is a different issue than the pooling issue. This seems to be the ball guides and apron tightened to the playfield and then scraping it from vibrations with the ball, so it’s more like the guide and apron are cutting into it. Seems like they really should put washers under those spots to prevent that cutting. I just got mine today and adjusted the guides by the tower so there’s a slight gap now between them and the playfield. I also just put three small black fabric washers in each of the apron screws to lift the apron very slightly off the playfield to prevent that cutting. I used #8x.032 fabric washers I had on hand from experimenting with washers to use on my POTC. Now the apron isn’t contacting the playfield.

Thanks for posting yours. I had the ball guides on my radar to check but wouldn’t have thought of the apron. Here are pics of what I did at the apron.

6191FAD3-C534-4F36-8C83-D1C30994DD17 (resized).jpeg6191FAD3-C534-4F36-8C83-D1C30994DD17 (resized).jpegEE6B7545-F92A-48CA-B813-EBA8A8D495B0 (resized).jpegEE6B7545-F92A-48CA-B813-EBA8A8D495B0 (resized).jpegA069F4FB-6204-4BF0-9389-9D58DFF451F6 (resized).jpegA069F4FB-6204-4BF0-9389-9D58DFF451F6 (resized).jpeg
#808 4 years ago
Quoted from sk8ball:

It needs to be a clean shot but in no way should be "hard". Do you have a video you can post?
There are numerous adjustments both in-menu and physically. You can fine tune the home position bias to make sure it is coming down in the center of the ramp (the last 3 game adjustments are for this)
There is also a physical height adjustment on the vertical motor bracket. The jaw should just barely make contact with the ramp. To test go into diag-game-vertical motor test. Lower the trex to the lowest position. If you hit the start button the jaw will toggle open and close.
If the ball goes into the mouth but doesn't grab try removing the spacers on the clear roof plastic at the front of the ramp. This is there to make sure the ball trips the ramp optic in order to fire the mouth magnet.

Anyone know how the physical height adjustment on the vertical motor bracket works? I got my game today and I have about 50% rejects from the mouth. I did the vertical motor test and when the T-Rex lowers and opens it's mouth it's over 1/2 inch above the ramp, and Keith Elwin's post about this says the jaw should just barely contact the ramp and there's an adjustment on the bracket. I checked the manual and looked at the bracket and I can't seem to see where the adjustment should be made.

#809 4 years ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

Anyone know how the physical height adjustment on the vertical motor bracket works? I got my game today and I have about 50% rejects from the mouth. I did the vertical motor test and when the T-Rex lowers and opens it's mouth it's over 1/2 inch above the ramp, and Keith Elwin's post about this says the jaw should just barely contact the ramp and there's an adjustment on the bracket. I checked the manual and looked at the bracket and I can't seem to see where the adjustment should be made.

By the way, after playing the game a few times today I'm LOVING it! It's Dino-mite!!!!!!!!!

#811 4 years ago
Quoted from hawkmoon77:

That seems like a good precaution. With my situation, I would have expected a scrape or scratch. The wrinkles show no sign of adherence to the wood. And they are rigid. Almost like the clear is firmly coating the wrinkles themselves. I would have expected chipping. I'm not sure how a clear coat deforms so rigidly around those wrinkles after it hardens.

Yeah, so many variables on this stuff it's difficult to pin it down - art adherence, clear, & overtightening thin edges contacting the playfield. Seems like it's probably some combination of at least a couple of those. Hope you have better luck from here on.

#890 4 years ago
Quoted from pickleric:

T-Rex Adjustment
[quoted image]

Thanks for posting this. I just gave it a try but there didn’t seem to be much ability to adjust the bracket up and down when the T-Rex was in the lowest position of the vertical test diagnostic. When the T-Rex was in the middle position of the vertical test I was able to adjust the bracket up and down a fair amount, but not when it was in the lowest position so I could line up the open mouth. Anyone else try yet?

#945 4 years ago
Quoted from timlah79:

Actually I take this back as being fixed. Still having the issue. Curious if anyone can give me some advice on how this is supposed to be situated?
The counterbalance appeared to get stuck again above the plastic guard. The problem is if I tighten it to much then there's enough clearance to catch the nut at the bottom to the top of the plastic edge. If I loosen it so there's almost no way the counterbalance can breach the plastic edge but it still gets stuck b/c it's made up of a bunch of separate washers.
What I also think I've realized is there is an additional issue with the mold of the toy itself. There are 2 ways for it to get stuck 1) the counterbalance getting caught or 2) the mold of the body catching the mold of the leg and sticking. No adjustment to the joint seems to make a difference here. Given #2 I don't think there's anything I can do to fully stop this from happening. Should I just ask Stern to send me a full replacement of the entire assembly? Also does anyone know if the plastic guard is supposed to stop the counterbalance or is it supposed to clear it?[quoted image][quoted image]

Here’s what my raptor looks like when I tilt it forward:

21C06D7B-7DBD-4AA1-BCFF-2248C4CAF465 (resized).jpeg21C06D7B-7DBD-4AA1-BCFF-2248C4CAF465 (resized).jpeg
#947 4 years ago
Quoted from pickleric:

Anyone else getting balls stuck in the gate by the spinner?[quoted image][quoted image]

I have over 125 plays on mine and I had it hang up there once. Only took a very, very slight nudge to get mine to release.

#951 4 years ago
Quoted from pickleric:

Anyone else getting balls stuck in the gate by the spinner?[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from EaglePin:

I have over 125 plays on mine and I had it hang up there once. Only took a very, very slight nudge to get mine to release.

Ha! You jinxed me. I just played and it hung up there again. Took a harder nudge to free it this time.

#960 4 years ago
Quoted from timlah79:

Thanks eaglepin. Does the plastic guard disallow it from breaching the edge of the guard? I can't tell whether it's supposed to clear that or not. My guess is no, it's supposed to block it since the screw of the counterbalance itself on mine can't possibly clear it. Knowing that may help me figure out what the holistic fix would be here. I may just shoot Stern a note now for good measure.

The plastic guard blocks the counterbalance on mine. I’m guessing that’s the way it was designed. If yours is getting hung up on the counterbalance can you try something to change the spot where it’s getting caught? Maybe wrapping some black electrical tape around the counterbalance at that spot would eliminate the ridge that’s catching on the plastic?

#1034 4 years ago
Quoted from tacreno:

348 in the house! Fresh coat of wax then started playing.
Started a mode and went right into chaos multiball to get the good score.
This is my first look at in home invisiglass and all i have to say is wow!
One thing my game is doing is holding the ball in the raptor cage after a game ends then when starting a new game it has to ball search and drop the door. This doesnt seem like normal behavior, is it?[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

On mine the ball in the raptor cage is released when the cage goes down after the match play sequence. Any time I hit start on the next game before the match animation is done the ball search kicks in looking for that ball. So if there's a ball in the raptor pen and you're hitting start on the next game before the match animation is done, then I think it's normal for ball search to kick in.

#1035 4 years ago
Quoted from hawkmoon77:

So can someone confirm for me that this is indeed the wrong insert color?
All other rescue inserts are orange. Why is this one white?
EDIT: I just saw a screen shot from Stern's page. Thiers is orange. Mine is clear. Unless I'm misreading it, this is really bad. Did they actually use the wrong color insert? Jeez. How many mistakes on one playfield?
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Wow, yeah it looks like they used the wrong color there. All mine are red and I think they're all supposed to be red (or orange, my eyes aren't that great anymore).

#1036 4 years ago

I dropped power down on my flippers last night and it's made a HUGE difference for me. I was having a really hard time hitting all shots except the two main ramps. For the tower ramp, I was flipping when the ball got to the tip of the flipper and it would still often miss high toward the left orbit. Lowered the power down to 248 on both lower flippers and 243 on the upper right flipper and all shots are much more consistent for me now.

#1064 4 years ago
Quoted from timlah79:

I just did this as well. While it could be a placebo effect, I am all of a sudden hitting my intended targets way more often. Thanks for the pro tip eaglepin !

This afternoon I made another adjustment that I think helped even more. While playing I noticed a slight hop on the ball as it transitioned from the right orbit to the upper right flipper. I took the glass off and rolled a ball down the orbit to see if it would go smoothly down the flipper like it does on the lower flippers. It wasn't smooth. It was hitting the upper flipper and hopping out to where it was rolling past the flipper about 1/2 inch away from the face of the flipper. I took the plastic above the upper flipper off, loosened the ball guide screw below it, and used my hand to put pressure on the very end of the ball guide to push it out a bit. Took some doing but eventually I got it to a point where the ball transitions from the ball guide to the flipper much more smoothly now. There's still a slight bit of a hop out away from the face of the flipper, but it's now less than 1/4 inch and it's really made a big difference in hitting the tower ramp. Since doing this and lowering the flipper power I'm hitting all shots way more reliably now.

#1070 4 years ago
Quoted from timlah79:

Damn eaglepin is having a pin Eagle Eye the reason you picked that handle? Ha! I haven't looked at that but will. Your description though sounds like a fix for something that should flow smoothly, not like an improvement one should have to make. Thoughts?

Just a very minor tweak. It’s a machine and there are always going to be some slight tweaks and adjustments like that needed on a machine to dial it in. I think of things like this as being in a different category than quality & reliability of the build or malfunctioning & defective parts type issues. When I wrote that I wasn't intending it to be critical of the build of the game. I just wanted to share it with other owners as an idea for something to look at when fine tuning it. I know I get a lot of help and ideas from reading about minor adjustments people make on their games so I thought I'd share this one.

#1133 4 years ago
Quoted from evh347:

I’ve seen that graphic before, but thanks for re-posting.
What would be more helpful is the exact menu options for, ‘enter vertical motor test’.
I haven’t found it in the LE manual on how to do this. Standard adjustment? Feature adjustment? Utilities? Test? Where?

To get into the vertical test select "Diag", then "Game", then "Vert" for the T-Rex Vertical test.

Quoted from scooterd:

So, my issue, after using the test-diag menu for vertical, is that at it's lowest setting, it's still a good inch or more from the ramp.... I have hit plenty of balls perfectly that just go SDTM afterwards after rejecting... very frustrating... also, when the T Rex head comes down, it also 'jogs' to the left side ... but, the head is just slightly off center... I think the big issue is that it's nowhere near the ramp...
The menu options (last 3) for in game doesn't seem to have a vertical adjustment... unless I'm not understanding how they work... I have tried -15 to +15 and the head just goes crazy from side to side, and doesn't change how close it gets to the ramp.
For a less than a day old machine, should I be going to Stern or the Distributor? I'm not interested in taking the machine apart myself to mechanically adjust...
Thanks all[quoted image]

When I first got mine it was also (like yours) too high above the ramp and rejecting probably 3-out-of-4 or 4-out-of-5 shots. After the information about the physical bracket adjustment was released I spent a bunch of time monkeying with it one night and I think I figured out the gist of it. When you go into the T-Rex Vertical Test, there are three T-Rex head heights you can toggle to by using the +/- buttons. You'll need to pull out the white interlock switch at the coin door hinge in order for power to go to the system while you're using the vertical test. First, hit the - button to lower the head. Then hit the Start button (same one you push to start a game) to open the mouth to see how high the mouth is off the ramp when it lowers & opens during the game. Check to see how high the bottom of the mouth is off the ramp in this position (T-Rex head low in the vertical test and mouth open). Pushing the start button again closes the mouth. It seems to me that if the bottom of the mouth is more than about 1/4 inch above the ramp you might want to lower it a bit.

To adjust the height, return the T-Rex head to the middle level of the Vertical Test by hitting the + button while it's in the lowest position. Now you'll need to pull the playfield out to the service position so you can loosen the 4 nuts behind the backboard holding the bracket in place (the nut on the bottom right as you're facing the machine is a blind shot to try to find it with the hex driver but it was very do-able once you found it - it's in a symmetrical position to the other nuts). I played it safe by turning the power off before I went to loosen the nuts. Don't loosen them very much, just enough to release the grip on the bracket. If I recall correctly, when I got all four only just loose enough to release the grip on the bracket the head lowered down a bit on its own. If it doesn't lower by its own weight, then you'll want to gently push the head down until the bracket won't let it lower any further. It's not a lot of movement down, but it's enough.

From here when I was monkeying with it I re-tightened the nuts on the bracket, pushed the playfield back in, powered the machine up, lowered the T-Rex head to the low position in the vertical test, and hit the start button to open the mouth. The mouth now completely rested on the ramp when it was open. When I hit start again to close the mouth it wouldn't close (I'm guessing because it hadn't opened all the way). I had to nudge the mouth with my finger to close it. So that meant I'd hit the bottom range of adjustment, and I was a bit too low. So I pulled the playfield back out, moved the T-Rex head back to the middle position of the vertical adjustment test and powered the machine down again. Then I re-loosened the nuts and only just a very, very, very little bit lifted and held the T-Rex head in place with one hand while I re-tightened the two most accessible nuts to hold it in place, and then tightened the other two. It was really only just the slightest lift up to get enough of an adjustment - just enough so the horseshoe openings of the bracket for the screws weren't in contact with the screws any more. A very slight adjustment in the bracket with the head height in the middle position of the vertical test translated to more of an adjustment in the lowered head & open mouth position than I expected it would.

After that, I retested by pushing the playfield back in, lowering the head in the vertical test, and hitting start. The bottom of the mouth was now probably only about 1/4 inch above the ramp & I figured it was close enough to try it out. Since then it's been catching probably 4-out-of-5 or 5-out-of-6 balls that it legitimately should. There are still some that it misses that I think it should catch and my distributor said he got a better understanding now of some of the software adjustments that can be made but I haven't had time in over a week to call him and go over it. I think once I get those figured out I'll be good to go. This is just my experience from memory, but I hope it helps a bit.

One thing to note. Watch the T-Rex head when you raise and lower the playfield. Make sure it's pretty centered looking down the ramp before you power up.
A couple times I didn't realize mine had swung to my right (its left) and was up against the left ramp where it goes through the backboard. When I powered up it started grinding, so I just immediately powered down. It was okay because I only had to use my hand to easily move it back to center before powering up again, but hearing that sound took a couple years off my life.

I think it's an amazing mech and it just needs a bit of tweaking to dial it in. The physical bracket adjustment just wasn't very intuitive. I figured the right position to make the adjustment would be in the low position of the vertical test, but it was impossible to make an adjustment in that position. I just kind of stumbled onto the fact that you need to make the bracket adjustment while it's in the middle position by accident (I didn't try the high position at all). Hope this helps. I'm sure the software side of the adjustments will really help too, but I don't know anything about them yet.

Quoted from timlah79:

I'm still in my back and forth with Stern about my T-Rex rarely catching the ball. Can anyone please take a look at this short video and tell me if it's normal that the T-Rex's entire head shifts/pops to the left to compensate for the space of his upper jaw to fit within the space of the ramp? What this ends up doing is having his open jaw cocked to the left side of the ramp. If no one else's LE does this I have to think I've identified the issue. Really appreciate anyone taking a comparison/look. It's extremely difficult to film/show this while using the vertical test mode and in this mode I cannot make the jaw drop to make it more obvious.
Look very closely at the very last second of this 39sec video: https://photos.app.goo.gl/iNzPW35N2UQKPrYEA
This is exactly what happens every time during regular gameplay just before he opens his jaw.

The link to your video didn't work for me, but the mouth of mine also skews a bit to the left to fit into the ramp when it opens. After making the height adjustment it's catching balls a lot more reliably, but I'm definitely wondering if this left skew could be resolved by a software adjustment to dial it in even better. I'm guessing there are one or two other software adjustments that might help, but I don't want to mess with them without first hearing from someone who knows what each one does.

#1136 4 years ago
Quoted from scooterd:

Thank you for this. I am a home user , so I have never removed the playfield.... so dumb question - how exactly do I do this? Like, super basic! I also know I need to get the balls out before doing so.
Would it be normal to expect the distributor to make this adjustment?
Thanks! ,
Newb

It just lifts up by the apron and then slides out very easily. On this machine when you’re done and ready to slide the playfield back in, it’s probably best to slide it back to the point it hits a stop & then lift it up a bit by the handle attached to the back of the playfield to get it past the stop, and then you can slide it in the rest of the way again from the front.

I’d say try to tackle it yourself. I was in your same position a year ago. I’m an accountant and had zero point zero mechanical or fix-it experience in anything, let alone pinball. By using the keyword search and reading advice on Pinside & slowly getting a feel for how some of the mechanics of the machine are supposed to work I’ve become more comfortable tinkering with it and making some minor adjustments. I still have a long, long way to go (for just two examples, I still need to learn to solder and I have no clue about the boards for electronics). When I bought my 1st machine last year I didn’t even know what a nut driver was. Now I have a set of them (very handy on these machines). I suggest going slow, learning as much as you can, and asking questions for advice when you aren’t sure. It’s fun learning about it as you go.

#1141 4 years ago
Quoted from hawkmoon77:

For anyone following along on the issues with my playfield, there is an update.
Two senior people at Stern reached out to me over the last week or so after hearing about the issues and seeing the pictures. They are sending a new, populated PF to my distributor who will swap it out for me. Everyone was extremely kind to me throughout the process. It should take about a week or so to arrive. I wanted to thank everyone here as well for your counsel and support. Knowing what I might expect (and should ask for) was very helpful.

That’s great! Very good to hear they’re taking care of it. Big contrast there to the JJP POTC experience.

#1170 4 years ago
Quoted from catchlight:

Just got my highest score to date. 314 million. I know, nothing to brag about. How are you guys going after the big scores? Stricly raptor, t rex, and chaos multi ball? Does it pay to go after the paddocks? I would love to hear some of your guys insights and tips!

I like trying to increase the T-Rex multiball jackpot value by hitting a few of the shots before starting it, and then I like trying to hit the jackpots from left to right when it starts. Usually I drain while in the process of trying to boost the jackpot value though. One time after hitting a miracle streak of consecutive shots including the T-Rex catch I was able to start T-Rex multiball with a jackpot value of about 5.8 million, and then of course drained without hitting a jackpot. Best I've done so far is hit three of the jackpots in order left to right. It's probably not the smartest way to play but most of the time I like playing by picking one or two objectives & challenges to try to go after instead of going for pure score. I haven't done very well in the control room modes. Those are tough for me but once or twice I've been able to get 30 to 40 million out of one. I did get through Raptor Tri-Ball once for 280 million. That was REALLY fun, but I'm guessing I won't be able to pull it off again. I really like all the different choices of what modes to play and when to play them. I haven't really focused on trying to get far in the paddocks yet. Seems like the best way to go for a high scores would be to start a paddock and then try to start a multiball or T-Rex mode with it.

#1172 4 years ago
Quoted from Flare:

Raptor doesn't seem to be at this point (code build .89), on top of being dicey to attain (there's an occassional, and downright nasty right lane drain reward for nailing the gate... I'm thinking a backhand shot on from the left flipper might help mitigate said drain threat, but I haven't spent any time to experiment on that shot focus

Good idea, I’m going to try that backhand to the pen from the left flipper. Any time I’ve tried to get Raptor Tri Ball started it’s had to just be my focus for that one game because of all the drains on the rebounds.

#1173 4 years ago

Anyone have the T-Rex setting to allow it to throw the ball enabled? I set mine to only have it place it on the wire form. Seems like it could cause damage throwing it and I haven’t wanted to take the risk. Just curious if anyone has tried it and how it’s going. How far does it throw?

#1192 4 years ago

Interesting that the T-Rex feed hurry up is now collected when the first opto is crossed. So I’m guessing the multiball will now start even if the T-Rex misses the catch? This update looks pretty sweet. I can’t wait to load it and dive in.

#1193 4 years ago
Quoted from Navystan:

New Stern pin? I was looking for the "born date" on my new JP LE that arrived today. It's number 357. When I looked for born data, I saw this sticker on the edge of Playfield. It says, "JAWS LE" and in pen the number 491. My number is not 491, it's 357. Is this a mistake and they put wrong tag for a future Stern pin? OK, maybe just wishing. By the way, can anyone tell me where I would find the "born date?"
Thanks.[quoted image]

There should be a tag on the back of the machine that has the date.

#1203 4 years ago

Do I need to save my game settings and re-load them after the code update? Also, does updating the code wipe out previous high scores and game audits?

#1205 4 years ago
Quoted from evh347:

I just got .90 installed.
Wow. Just wow. The T-rex toy has got to be up there with the MM castle as one of the best toys ever designed.
The new smart missile gameplay is really cool.
I'm just digging in w/ a few games completed and there is definitely some new things to be excited about.
Bravo Keith (and team)….please keep 'em coming.

There are two LE code files in the download and they both have the .spk extension. One file is .spk.002.000 and one file is .spk.002.001. Do we need to install the .000 first and then the .001?

#1222 4 years ago

I just played for awhile on the new code. Pretty great update. I like the new smart missile setup. I had an idea to continue hitting Abort until I got to the T-Rex paddock and then use it to "Clear Paddock". I made it to the T-Rex paddock once, but I accidentally pressed past the selection for "Clear Paddock" and ended up on the next award instead. I really liked the new T-Rex movement too. Pretty amazing game!

#1279 4 years ago
Quoted from bemmett:

Bad news, my moving T-Rex head has broken already. It happened the 2nd game after I updated the code so I was hoping it was code related but have not heard anyone else reporting an issue so appears it is mechanical. I probably only have 50-100 games on it or so overall. It made a horrible clicking/grinding sound sound and then was stuck in place. I'll be in contact with Stern to see about what needs fixed. Hope this mech holds up long term and is not a constant issue, hopefully just bad luck.

Where did it get stuck? I noticed last night on mine that when it did its new moves while holding the ball it was coming really close to hitting the wire form from the left ramp. It was just BARELY high enough to clear it while it moved around, but one time it was low enough that it hit it and seemed to be stuck for a second. It didn’t start grinding but I was reaching for the power switch when it freed itself. It always raised to the right height to place the ball on the wire, but the movement before that was usually really low and almost colliding with it.

#1295 4 years ago
Quoted from bemmett:

Ya so a less than thrilling end to my Trex head having a problem. I tested it multiple times thru menu, wan't working. Got Chas from Stern on the phone and got into the back of the machine. Nothing popped out to me at all as tangled or loose but I did fidget with some wires and whatnot and then of course it was working again as I was talking to Chas. So, got me, maybe was a wire binding something up or a loose connection or something but all seems good again.

Awesome that it’s working again!

#1405 4 years ago

Anyone having an issue with the raptor post not catching the lock ball? My post is popping up but it's a fraction of a second too late so the ball has rebounded past it. I don't know if it's a coincidence or not, but it was working 100% before the software update and ever since the software update the post is just that fraction of a second late in coming up to block the ball. The game continues on okay and recognizes the ball hasn't been caught & adjusts by lowering the post again. Raptor tri-ball can then still be started by hitting the targets in the cage but it would still be nice to have it make the catch. It seems to be working fine in the coil test, and there doesn't seem to be an adjustment to tweak it in the menu settings. The only thing I found in the menu is an option to completely disable the post.

#1460 4 years ago
Quoted from timlah79:

Yes I have seen this as well. And only since the .90 update. At times I thought it was that my shots into it were hit so fast that the post couldn't keep up (i.e. accidental right flipper entry instead of smoother left flipper entry but I've seen this happen a couple times both ways). Seems like another software bandaid, just as they did with counting the t-rex catch when it doesn't actually catch the ball.

Looks like this just got addressed in the new .91 code release. Awesome!!! I’m loving these code updates. New scoring on the raptor tower combo looks great too.

#1554 4 years ago
Quoted from adamross:

Having a weird thing with the raptor lock. The ball will hit the target and trigger the lock after the ball has left the pit. Anyone else?

Yes I've had that happening, but it's one of the items listed as being addressed in the new .91 code update they just released.

#1686 4 years ago

I can't get enough of playing this game. Just had some really fun games and got a couple smart missile hits. One smart missile started Raptor Tri-Ball while I was in a control room mode and I got 2x going along with it. On the other I had Chaos MB going and ended up with 3 balls lined up at the post for the smart missile and hit the shot with the lead ball while 2x was going. It's such an awesome feeling to hit three or four shots in a row with the ball flying around but still flowing so smoothly into each one. Back to back loop shots get the ball up to supersonic speed. Too much fun! Time to go play again!

#1689 4 years ago

I noticed a bit of audio tonight I hadn't noticed before. When the truck crashes over the cliff after draining the left outlane you hear the truck's engine rev and then a very low, barely noticeable clip of the driver yelling "aaaaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhh" as the truck continues to fall. I thought that was pretty funny.

#1707 4 years ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

I am sure this has been talked about...but I'm inept at finding the details on the forums . I thought that the T Rex was supposed to randomly throw the ball, not just set it on the wireform. Is there a setting that I'm missing?
Thanks for the help!

Yes there’s a setting in the menu that toggles the throw on or off. I forget where it is in the menu though.

#1709 4 years ago
Quoted from IronMan8Bit:

Just bought a JP LE should be here in a couple of days! Is there any specific posts I should look at for tweaking my machine?
I've owned a Guardians and there were a few issues with the drop target and right orbit that needed attention.
Anything like that on JP? Also any areas that have lots of dimpling that might require mylar or anything? I have the plastic protector set coming from Mezels, but no shooter lane protector as of yet was thinking I would just add some mylar to that.
Any help is much appreciated!

I had to adjust the height of my T-Rex bracket, but they may be setting them up differently now so you might not need to. Some have had issues with the raptor tail getting caught on the plastic behind it. Check the posts at the ramp entrances and the post protecting the upper flipper for tightness. I decreased flipper power settings in order for some shots to be more makable. I also adjusted the angle of the ball guide leading to the upper flipper to have the ball come off the guide and roll down closer to the face of the flipper, but again that was a personal preference type of adjustment. Doesn’t seem like there’s too much tinkering needed on this machine though, and I can’t think of any widespread issues to address. It’s been a blast to play and to own so far.

#1721 4 years ago
Quoted from IronMan8Bit:

That is what it seemed like skimming everything I just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing anything.
What did you lower the power to on your flippers? If you don't mind me asking always nice to have some fine tuned shots! haha

I went to 248 on the lower flippers and 243 on the upper. One other thing I remember. You might end up wanting to bend the gate behind the spinner a bit so it doesn’t stick out into the orbit quite as far. It’s a bit of a ball trap there.

#1775 4 years ago
Quoted from Oneangrymo:

Does anyone elses T Rex hit the left power line thing with its head at times?

Do you mean the wires or the post the wires are attached to? Mine hit the wires but I just bent the wires out of the way so it wouldn't happen anymore.

#1867 4 years ago
Quoted from GamerRick:

I really think since it seems to be so involved to adjust all of the different TRex settings That Stern should put out a simple poster or flyer or something explaining it don’t you think? I really like Chas and I think he’s a great guy but I don’t think the explanation he gave one of the other Pinsiders says very much about it at all. We shouldn’t have to figure these things out they should just tell us

Yep, this seems to be a very new and different mech from anything else in any other game, so it would be helpful if they put together guides to cover what to do in a few different situations (mouth is too far above ramp, head is too low, head is too far to the right, T-Rex isn't catching, etc.). And/or maybe a quick overview of what each of the T-Rex software adjustments is designed to correct also.

#1904 4 years ago

Does anyone ever feel like their T-Rex has "gone to sleep" (for lack of a better phrase) when trying to hit it? My T-Rex has now been catching most of the clean shots when they're made within a reasonable time after the T-Rex event starts. However, whenever it takes me a longer time to get a clean shot to the ramp after the T-Rex event starts, the ball won't be caught. The T-Rex will give one quick roar immediately after the reject, and then if I get a very similar clean shot at it again soon after that it will be caught. It's been a very predicable behavior. I can now pretty well guess when I'll need two shots (one to wake it up and one to catch it) when it's taken too long for me to get a good shot off at the ramp. I'm wondering if there's some adjustment in the settings that can be made to prevent this "sleep mode". Anyone notice anything similar?

#1945 4 years ago
Quoted from flashburn:

Wow, that sucks.
The stupid thing is that this happened because they clamped down all the metal rails so damn tight, it forced the clear up... yet when I was replacing all the rubbers I found that every damn post was loose! Whoever assembled this playfield did an absolutely terrible job.
Of course I didn't find this new playfield issue until after I replaced all of the posts and rubbers, so if they do give me a new one I will have to swap them all back again.

They really should put washers under the guide rail screws to keep the rail from resting on the clear coat.

#1947 4 years ago
Quoted from Dahawk007:

Anyone else have this issue with their Trex head? This morning he would just continually move his head back and forth but further to each side as normal. He would push the electric fence on the left side and over hang the ramp on the right. So much so that the ball on the return ramp would hit him. He also now tries to open his mouth in areas not over the ramp entry. He never stops moving or roars at the beginning of the game. Any ideas?

I haven’t had that happen. Is it still lowering to try to catch balls? If you start a T-Rex event does it settle down? Maybe then it could reset and go back to normal. Or maybe there’s some switch stuck that’s causing it somehow. Are there any switches reporting stuck?

#1993 4 years ago
Quoted from catchlight:

I am having trouble with my right flipper, it is having not making it up the ramp and I have the power set to full (250). I know the coil stops are problematic, but what about them are bad? I opened mine up, and looked at coil stop, but cannot see anything loose or broken. Do they just bend a little? I guess I am trying to ask if the problem is obvious with a "bad" coil stop?
Thanks in advance!

I just had this happen a couple days ago. On mine the rivet in the middle of the coil stop was knocked out so only a hole remained. Here's a link to my post with a picture of what it looks like with the rivet missing.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park/page/48#post-5275530

But for some reason it didn't look like that was the problem with mine at first though. When it first lost power that was the first thing I looked at because it's been such a commonly reported issue, but I slid the playfield out to look and saw rivets in both coil stops so I thought I must be having a different problem. Then the next day I lifted the playfield up to check it out again and this time the rivet was missing, so I'm thinking that when I saw it the first time it was actually loose or something and didn't look like it was a problem even though it was.

#2091 4 years ago
Quoted from ercvacation:

Are there any videos of what the raptor is supposed to do on the premiums/Le's? How is it activated? I know some people had issues and mine doesn't seem to do anything. I feel bad for Keith Elwin. He made such an awesome game but Stern has shit the bed on their quality control.

Raptor should make a quick lunge forward when the back target in the raptor cage is hit.

#2233 4 years ago
Quoted from hawkmoon77:

My understanding is that once the T-rex event is ready and she lowers her jaw, it is ready for T-rex multiball as soon as you get it in her mouth. However, if you hit the truck before getting it in her mouth, it will begin cycling through the t-rex modes each time you hit the truck.

I think T-Rex multiball is always first, then for subsequent T-Rex events the selection switches each time the truck changes direction.

#2388 4 years ago
Quoted from PBatt:

I FINALLY solved my issue by removing the two black spacers on the ramp deflector. They are maybe 1/4" - 3/8" tall, black plastic. By removing them, the ball is deflected downward and that trips the opto triggering the T-Rex.
Who's idea was that in the first place . . . .

Is this one of the spacers you’re referring to (circled in red)? I’ve see posts about doing this and I’m guessing these are the spacers to remove but just wanted to check to be sure. Is the ball hopping up at that spot when it hits the ramp apron? Thanks.

BE575633-2837-46B3-B7AD-8A2E0D7271BB (resized).jpegBE575633-2837-46B3-B7AD-8A2E0D7271BB (resized).jpeg
#2403 4 years ago
Quoted from mummite:

Since day1 of my NIB LE T-REX never moved horizontally great. Over time it was moving, less and less to the point where it finally did not move at all. The motor worked and everything was working and getting triggered as intended, but no head movement.
The issue was set screw #9 (seen manual page below) that holds the metal rod in place that black box motor rotates. Tighten this up and it works great again.
Posting this here in case anyone else has this issue.[quoted image]

Thanks for posting this. Amazing how it sometimes only takes the slightest little thing to cause a big problem.

#2429 4 years ago
Quoted from mthirkell:

Stern is sending me 3 coil stops under warranty.

My replacements were requested 10/28. Still haven’t arrived. I’m not thrilled about going almost two weeks now without being able to play it. I’m getting the withdrawal shakes. Let’s see who gets their replacements first

It’s looking like it’ll be you even though I only live about 20-30 minutes from Stern. Not awesome.

#2432 4 years ago
Quoted from Red_Devils:

I ordered mine from Pinball Life, $4.95ea and delivered in 3 days! I couldn't go 2 weeks without playing I probably should submit a ticket to Stern though, so that they are aware of the failures.

Yep, I know I could order them there but like you mentioned I thought it would be a good idea to file a ticket with Stern. I didn’t think it would/should take more than a few days for Stern to get them out to me though.

#2439 4 years ago
Quoted from Royale-W-Cheese:

So just order one from pinball life and get it months before Stern ?? GRRRRR.

Could be coil stop but could be something else too. When my coil stop broke it would still flip, it was just super weak.

#2443 4 years ago
Quoted from Royale-W-Cheese:

What would make my top right flipper just stop working?? I have had zero issues until today. Everything else seems to work . HMM
What's the best test that I need to do in the menu to check?
Any ideas??

Can you check the switch for it in the switch test in the menus?

#2491 4 years ago
Quoted from Royale-W-Cheese:

Here is Trisha's new home. Gonna paint the screw later. It's here or the trash...LOL[quoted image]

Trisha Pteranodon! LOLOLOL!!!! That's awesome!!!!!!

#2498 4 years ago
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:

Is there any shipping binding on the Raptor?
I havent seen mine move. I checked Coil tests but didnt see one dedicated?
Is the back plate a coiled kick back?

I don’t remember any shipping binding on it. It’s not coiled. The target face of the metal plate is pushed by the ball strike and that push causes the top part of the metal plate (running under the raptor) to tilt the raptor forward). Maybe check that the black counterweight under the raptor’s tail isn’t caught on the plastic. Here’s what mine looks like.

71BBE8ED-245D-464A-A0ED-C57BE6A4205D (resized).jpeg71BBE8ED-245D-464A-A0ED-C57BE6A4205D (resized).jpeg
#2533 4 years ago
Quoted from Royale-W-Cheese:

Here is a little treat for you guys. The lucky ones who downloaded the new clips have heard 2 versions at the end of the game.
Wifey jumped on the piano and I caught her playing and practicing. Not bad for 3 attempts.

Nice!

#2550 4 years ago

Anyone know what the round thing on the T-Rex tongue is? A sensor or a light? Or the magnet? I was experimenting with the bias settings and noticed it. Just curious about what it is.

E6C23427-64CE-4B00-92B1-6D19D4D53748 (resized).jpegE6C23427-64CE-4B00-92B1-6D19D4D53748 (resized).jpeg
#2554 4 years ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

Anyone know what the round thing on the T-Rex tongue is? A sensor or a light? Or the magnet? I was experimenting with the bias settings and noticed it. Just curious about what it is.[quoted image]

Found it in the manual. It's an opto in the mouth. So I guess this is what activates the magnet? I didn't realize that opto was there so I'd been thinking the opto that activates the magnet was the one at the entrance to the left ramp. I'm wondering if missed catches might sometimes be related to that mouth opto then? I took the spacers off the plastic at the ramp entrance and still had a few missed catches. It was about the same performance as it was before I took the spacers off - so not perfect but not too bad either. There are still a couple times when it misses clean shots though, and sometimes it seems like it's the shots that have a bit more speed on them that are missed more frequently.

#2571 4 years ago
Quoted from imagamejunky:

Did you try adjusting the height of the trex so the jaw slightly rests on the ramp? This helped mine.

Yep, the jaw is on the ramp. It's not missing the catch on a lot of shots, I'm just trying to raise the batting average a bit if I can.

#2573 4 years ago
Quoted from imagamejunky:

Just this morning I saw an adjustment setting for trex jaw hold power. I wonder if increasing this increases the magnet power. It might help with the trex catching the ball easier. Just a guess.

I hadn't seen that one. I'll check it out. Thanks!

#2603 4 years ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

I get that and ball trough check switch messages..usually Number 4 but also 3 and 5 occasionally, clearing them just brings them back later
I would encourage you to write to Stern on their support site, I know Chas is aware but the more people they hear this from, the better...I wish there was a bug reporting submission/ticket site similar to what video game companies have
As far as the error, it doesn't affect gameplay at all...from what I can tell, the 48 v interlock killing power to the node boards when the coin door is opened is causing the software...that was my guess and Chas thought is was probably the case, but no confirmation they are working on it as a bug clear...I'm sure they've had to see i though...it's hard not to miss

Does the bug.report@sternpinball e-mail address work or actually go anywhere? I sent a couple emails to it about a month ago for possible Jurassic Park bugs but I have no idea if they’re even read by anyone. I figured there’d at least be an automatic reply acknowledging they got it, but no response at all. It felt like the emails just went into a black hole so I stopped sending any more.

#2613 4 years ago
Quoted from MrElbow:

Does anyone know where I can find info on the following two missing screws/screw+nut combo (sizes etc)? The first photo is pretty self explanatory under the T-Rex ramp. The second photo is the very back right side of the machine under the right ramp. They are both clear plastic protector pieces that do not appear to be in the manual.[quoted image][quoted image]

For the one at the left ramp, is it the same #6 screw listed on Page 56 of the manual as being part of the ramp protector part (12) in the left ramp assembly? Looks like the plastic protector hole lines up with that ramp protector part and so might use the same screw.

#2614 4 years ago
Quoted from MrElbow:

Does anyone know where I can find info on the following two missing screws/screw+nut combo (sizes etc)? The first photo is pretty self explanatory under the T-Rex ramp. The second photo is the very back right side of the machine under the right ramp. They are both clear plastic protector pieces that do not appear to be in the manual.[quoted image][quoted image]

For the one near the right ramp is the plastic under it #8 on Page 50 of the manual? If so, that assembly shows a 7/8” hex spacer with a screw going into the bottom of it. I’d think the same size screw might also be used at the top of that hex spacer to hold the plastic protector.

1 week later
#2837 4 years ago
Quoted from beaplayer:

Possible software bug? I received my premium Friday with .91 code. I have seen two times when I'm in CHAOS multiball that the flippers go dead.
Both times its been when I've been in the multiball for a decent amount of time with several jackpots,etc. Both times with at least 2 balls still active.
Has anyone else seen this before?
Other than this. Machine is having no issues. 95% TREX ball capture, 90% shooter lane through helopad.
I have been experimenting with playfield angle. Seems like 7 degrees works the best. I did read somewhere that Elwin said he designed the game to be
best played at 7.

I had the same thing happen last night. First time it has happened to me. Long multiball, two balls still in play, Chaos seems to suddenly end and flippers went dead. I wondered at first if maybe it was a trough opto problem but they seemed okay in the switch check in the menu.

I kept playing some more games specifically shooting to try to get Chaos MB to see if it would happen again. Got Chaos MB a couple more times and it seemed to work fine. One thing I noticed during the Chaos MB that bugged out was during it the raptor gate was down and I thought I noticed the post come up to hold a ball that went in the pen and then immediately lower again to release it. It was only up for a second or less to trap the ball just briefly, and I only noticed it happen once. Not sure if that’s supposed to happen or if it could be related to a bug.

I thought about sending an e-mail to the Stern bug report email address but since I sent two in a month or so ago and didn’t even get an auto reply that the email was received I wasn’t going to waste my time again if those emails aren’t actually anywhere.

#2846 4 years ago
Quoted from Jahkub:

I think I saw discussion about this on tiltforums, so Kieth and team are aware.

I don’t recall seeing this mentioned there. I just went and scrolled back through the forum again and there was a mention of flippers going dead after a control room mode is started, but I didn’t see anything about it happening in Chaos MB. I could have missed it though.

#2899 4 years ago
Quoted from GamerRick:

It takes away from the cool look of the shooter rod lit up

AAAAAAARGH I WANT THAT SHOOTER ROD!!!!!!!!!!! Sorry, had to get that out of my system. I only have one mod on three games combined, but I really want that shooter rod to get back in stock so I can get one. Looks pretty sweet.

#2907 4 years ago
Quoted from AUKraut:

it could be worse, you could have paid for yours on 10/21 in the Stern Store when they were supposedly in stock and have nothing to show for it: no shooter, no notification, no contact, nothing....

Yikes, that stinks.

#2927 4 years ago
Quoted from Braindance:

Had a couple good billion point games before work yesterday. I keep learning new things about this game. The only real complaint I have is when I'm rocking a multiball, getting all the shots, and the game loses track of number of balls, thus ending my ball when I still have one or two balls in play. I'm sure it will be fixed in a code update.
On another note, what do you guys find to be the most difficult aspect of this game? I can blow up the multiballs and get super jackpots, but getting four dinos is proving tough.

Yep, I’m pretty much in the same boat. It’s tough for me to make all the necessary shots in a game to catch a bunch of dinosaurs. I can usually get two or sometimes three of them, but between catching dinosaurs, running control room modes, and T-Rex modes it’s tough for me to play all those different things and survive to get more dinosaurs. Lots of fun trying though!!!

#2971 4 years ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

Just noticed in your pic you are developing a rub spot at the same point I had (on a thinner clear, no art around post Premium), the guide rail was torqued too tight and it started digging into the playfield and dare I say it (bubbling the clear slightly) I took a heat gun in 3 second passes and it layed down immediately...I let it cool, cleaned and waxed the area, loosened the two nuts under the playfield to give clearance to insert some mylar (this was a bitch and took multiple attempts) under the rail and then screwed the rail back down just hand tight...so far so good.
I can't figure out why there isn't some sort of clearance system built into rails...all it takes is too much torque and playfield rubbing and clear issues are sure to happen
[quoted image]

First thing I did when I got my machine (before playing a ball) was back off the ball guide screw at the entrance to the left orbit to put a fraction of space between it and the playfield and I also put fabric washers at the apron screw holes. The ball guide on that left orbit was already cutting into the playfield without a ball having been played yet. The manufacturers really should put washers under those spots or leave them a fraction above the surface to keep the edges of the guides and aprons from cutting like a knife into the playfield.

#3052 4 years ago
Quoted from Red_Devils:

Ok guys have a strange one here... When setting the angle for the playfield do you normally set to the flippers at the bottom or as close to the top as you can?
I set mine yesterday to 7 degrees at the top of the playfield and it reads around 6.7 by the flippers. The machine plays fine I'm not noticing a great deal of difference in making the helipad shot from what it was prior (6.5 at the flippers), I also adjusted the top flipper a little as it was really intruding in to the helipad lane, it definitely made a difference! (First pic is before adjusting second is after) After making these adjustments and this is the strangest thing, the shaker motor is now really shaking the machine with a vengeance! I'm thinking can changing the angle of the game really change the intensity of the shaker? I wouldn't think so but then again that's why I'm asking the experts Btw, the game is level side to side withing .2 of a degree.
Also, When making a full right orbit loop the ball comes around and hits the truck nuts instead of hitting the upper flipper like I've seen it do on the Dead Flip videos, I tried looking under the playfield to see if there is a screw/nut to adjust the side rail but couldn't find any. Anyone else notice this particular issue? Thanks guys![quoted image][quoted image]

My orbit shots are also hitting the truck when they go through at medium or high speed. Lower speed orbit shots are missing the truck and going to the flipper. This weekend I’m going to try to bend the guide rail at the exit of the orbit to see if I can slightly change the angle it comes out of there so they all go to the flipper.

#3103 4 years ago
Quoted from Peanuts:

New code!
V0.95.0 - November 25, 2019
===========================
- Visitor Center - added this new mini-wizard mode which is lit when you proceed through all Paddocks and reach the Visitor Center
- Museum Mayhem - added this new mini-wizard mode which is lit at the T-Rex when you complete all T-Rex event modes
- Secure Control Room - added this new mini-wizard mode which is lit at the Control Room when you complete 3 Control Room modes
- Invalid Frenzy - added this new mini-wizard mode which is lit when you complete all Control Room modes and Secure Control Room mini-wizard mode
- Visitor Center Bonus - when you reach the visitor center there is a bonus applied for Fossils Collected, Rescues, Longest Rescue Streak, DNA Collected, and Paddocks Visited
- T-Rex Mech - now throws left / right during T-Rex Rampage and Museum Mayhem (T-REX THROW BALL ENABLED adjustment is still available to turn throws off)
- Raptor Locks - fixing an issue where lighting lock and shooting the lock shot quickly after could cause the gate to not close and the ball to lock virtually, instead of physically
- Raptor Locks - fixing an issue where lighting lock in the Raptor Pit and starting Chaos MB could allow the ball to be locked during Chaos MB causing it to end early
- Raptor Locks - Raptor Fence Integrity now starts at 50% for the first multiball
- Raptor Locks - when locks can't be advanced all Raptor Target hits will do a negative sound and light effect
- Raptor Tri-Ball - fixing an issue when you have a ball locked and hit the ball to refresh the timer during the grace period of the lock timer the ball will be released early
- Raptor Tri-Ball - added new start light show
- Raptor Tri-Ball - added new light show for Jackpot and Super Jackpot
- King of the Island - don't start music until intro is complete
- King of the Island - added a new Jackpot lamp effect
- Chaos Multiball - removed the Add-A-Ball award from Supply Drop, Add-A-Balls are now only available from Pop Bumper hits
- Smart Missile - Left Inlane Up Post now fires faster when triggering from the left inlane switch
- Smart Missile - fixed and issue with the 'Smart Missile' insert flashing after the time to hit it was expired
- Amber Pops - added a new background light effect on the Pops when this is running
- Amber Slings - fixed an issue where the Amber Slings timer would be paused by the pop bumpers
- Dilophosaurus Paddock - when Staff is immobilized the text on the display effect now shows the number of seconds it will last
- Escape - escape timer no longer pauses for anything
- System Failure - added an expanded light show when you start your first paddock and the system failure video plays
- 2X Playfield - added a new light show when activated
- Supply Drop Lit - adding a new light show when this happens
- Truck Flasher - adding more Truck flasher light shows when the Truck is hit at key times
- T-Rex Chase - added T-Rex mech and light choreography when mode is progressed
- Replay - adjusted the Replay display effect priority so it waits until more important things are shown before displaying the Replay
- Sound Effects - many sound effect have been updated and volumes tweaked
- Score Frame - hide Paddock info boxes when the next Paddock is the Visitor Center
- Enter Initials - now using waterfall background instead of backgrounds relating to each high score
- Mosquito in Amber Accessory Shooter Knob - many more lamp effects added during Amber Pops / Slings / Targets / Ramps
- Attract Mode - adding Rescue Tutorial video into the attract mode loop
- Attract Mode - adjusted GI to full brightness during 30 second light cycling, GI to half brightness instead of off when lamp groups are flashing
- Diagnostics - added a Ramp Opto Test for detecting both optos when shooting the Left Ramp, this can be used to diagnose issues with missing the Left Ramp Entry Opto
- Adjustment Changes:
- changed 'AMBER RAMP TIMER' default from 30 to 50 seconds
- changed 'AMBER SLINGS TIMER' default from 30 to 40 seconds
- changed 'AMBER POPS TIMER to default from 30 to 20 seconds
- 'AMBER TARGETS TIMER' remains 30 seconds
- changed 'T-REX STEP THROW TICKS' to 'T-REX STEP THROW RIGHT TICKS' - used for fine tuning when the jaw releases the ball when throwing right
- added 'T-REX STEP THROW LEFT TICKS' - used for fine tuning when the jaw releases the ball when throwing left
- UTILS -> VOLUME -> BACKBOX SPEAKER TYPE - now set to 4 OHMs on boot for LE machines only
- removed 'MAP - START PADDOCK' - no more cheating since mini-wizard mode scoring is based on paddocks visited
- System - Updated to V2.36
- Updated to nodeboard firmware v0.53.0

Wow it looks like there’s a ton in this update. Can’t wait to load it and play!!!! RIP supply drop add-a-ball on Chaos MB. You’ll be missed

#3148 4 years ago
Quoted from skink91:

I put on 0.95 this morning... at the end of my second or third game, the sound got really loud and the speaker crackled for a few seconds before going back to normal. Anyone else experience something similar? It hasn’t happened again yet.

That happened to me once about a week ago.

#3232 4 years ago
Quoted from VindictiveX:

T-REX not Grabbing ball Consistently SOLVED.
Hey guys,
Just wanted to post this here as it may help some of you who are also having problems with the T-Rex not grabbing the ball consistently.
First of all, I did the mechanical adjustments that were listed previously in this thread by Keith and other posters regarding proper alignment of the T-rex. I ensured that when the T-rex opened his mouth that his jaw was resting lightly on the ramp and adjusted the T-rex left and right bias to make her jaw line up with the middle of the ramp. However, she still only grabbed the ball about 20% of the time. The other times it would just go in her mouth come back out and not even start the event. This made me realize that she was not being activated to grab the ball.
I went into switch mode and tested the opto on the trex ramp. it would trigger only if I placed a pinball directly on the ramp. If i raised the pinball even 1/8th of an inch off the ramp the the opto would disengage. I then tested the opto in the "O" lane. I could raise the ball 1/4 to 1/2 and inch and the opto would still be engaged. so with this information I realized I needed to raise the optics on the ramp because my pinball was jumping over the opto 70% of the time. However, there was no easy way to raise the opto as it is attached directly to the ramp. At this point I called Chaz at Stern, explained the problem, and asked if he knew of a way to raise these optics. He did not and suggested write a email and send pictures so he could forward to engineering.
However, once I got off the phone and realized there was not going to be an easy way to raise the optics, I started to think of other solutions. What I came up with is not elegant, but it works.
I covered the bottom half of the opto with tape.(see tape on ramp in the pictures below). This effectively raised the optics without physically moving it.
Now when in switch mode, i could raise the ball about 1/4 to half an inch off the ramp and the opto would still engage.
I then tested in game. Now, once the Trex opens her mouth to start a Trex mode, 100% of the shots to the ramp are recognized(starting the Trex event) and she grabs the ball about 80% - 90% of the time.
This is obviously not a permanent solution, but will work until I think of something else or Stern gets back to me.
hope this helps![quoted image][quoted image]

My T-Rex had been catching about 80% or 90% of shots, but I did this tape fix last night and it seems to have helped get it closer to 100%. I'd previously taken the spacers off the plastic protector over the top of the ramp entrance, and that had helped at the time but there was a tradeoff on mine in that more shots up the ramp started hitting the protector, losing steam, and not making it up the ramp. Now with the tape fix I put the spacers back on and it's working well. Thanks for the great idea!

I also put tape on the orbit opto. Shots going through the orbit at crazy speed hadn't been registering occasionally, and now it's registering them all. Similar concept to the tape idea for the ramp, just a different use of it. Here's the post where I got that idea:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park/page/56#post-5312034

#3246 4 years ago
Quoted from Green-Machine:

Any pictures of tape in use? I would like to see it so I can try. Thank you

Here are pictures. Didn’t remove anything other than the protector over the ramp entrance to do it. Just used tweezers to place the tape and pressed it on.

02585DA2-F1A3-4667-B665-CEB5284CBB54 (resized).jpeg02585DA2-F1A3-4667-B665-CEB5284CBB54 (resized).jpegA9EE6EA5-7C3D-4470-8D8B-EA7C6A078F2F (resized).jpegA9EE6EA5-7C3D-4470-8D8B-EA7C6A078F2F (resized).jpeg
#3260 4 years ago
Quoted from jdroc:

Let us know how that works. My orbit shots started doing this about a week ago (never did it in the few hundred games before that). I'm going to try bending the guide down a little also to see if it will clear and still allow a raised upper flipper to just deflect the ball around the orbit again (as in the dead flip streams)

I worked on the left orbit exit today and got it adjusted so right orbit shots exiting out left don’t hit the truck anymore. Took a bit of pushing but I got it done without removing anything. I loosened the nut for the screw at the end of the ball guide, then I snipped a fiber washer so I could sneak it under the guide and around the screw. That way when I cranked the nut back down the ball guide wouldn’t be cutting into the playfield (pictures below). Then I lifted the playfield vertical and got my son to help. I was on the right side of the machine reaching in to push really hard against the end of the guide with the end of a small pair of pliers. When I got it pushed in as far as I thought I could I had him tighten the nut down. The end of the ball guide was only a fraction of an inch closer to the edge of the supply drop target, but it made all the difference. Here’s the washer I used:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-8-x-0-032-in-Black-Fiber-Washer-3-Piece-807888/204276415

610ABF81-95F9-4185-8DC3-B5F28ACA3916 (resized).jpeg610ABF81-95F9-4185-8DC3-B5F28ACA3916 (resized).jpegAE7A4911-0C4C-497D-B236-524667195336 (resized).jpegAE7A4911-0C4C-497D-B236-524667195336 (resized).jpeg
#3284 4 years ago
Quoted from kamidave:

Hi everyone;
I searched through several pages of this post, didn't find any reference to this, apologies if I missed it. I'm guessing this isn't happening to just me.
After updating to the newest software, I now have an issue where when T-Rex Multiball starts, the second ball doesn't actually kick off. When the ball in play drains, you have to wait for the ball find to cycle and then the two balls kick out.
Anyone else? I feel like this wasn't happening before update, but I only had it for a couple of days prior.

Have you checked the optos on the trough? Sounds like what can happen when one of the trough optos isn’t working. Might be worth checking.

#3296 4 years ago
Quoted from beelzeboob:

Hey, Keith! The ohm-setting-change-y thingy actually works...BUT...my machine keeps going back to the awful-sounding 4-ohm setting that it went to after the update. Is that a bug in the new code, or is my machine borked? I'm REALLY big into sound, so this is bumming me out.
If anybody else knows how to make the 8-ohm setting stick, please clue me in. Thanks!

Mine also keeps going back to 4 ohm after powering down.

#3300 4 years ago
Quoted from caker137:

If you look at the release notes that's what they intend it to do. The LE has 4 ohm speakers (upgraded sound). I've had good luck at also setting the cabinet to 4 ohm (It is in fact 4 ohms) and then just raising the main volume up to get the same levels as when it was incorrectly driving the 4 ohm speakers as if they are 8 ohm. Tweak the bass and trebble a bit and you can get it sounding very close to how it was at 8 ohm settings, but now actually driving your speakers correctly.

Thanks, I didn't realize that. I'll play around with it a bit.

#3349 4 years ago
Quoted from timlah79:

fooflighter snaroff So much insight into my issues and expectations, my friends. Truly appreciate everything you've said. This is my first pin so while I've had a ton of legitimate physical issues with the game I am still learning what my expectations/threshold should be. What I explained to my dist today was, "man it would be great if Stern would set expectations from the get-go via a whitepaper or something." What I mean by that is it would be helpful if Stern had documentation such as, "the T-Rex is expected to catch the ball xx% of the time from a solid shot during mode a, b, c." Or, "the plunger should carry the ball around the loop xx% of the time from manual trigger, auto-plunge, etc." Or in terms of the T-Rex catch (which after all the physical issues have now been resolved for me) they could say, "success rates are dependent upon software updates, please refer to code update readme's past 0.xx up to 1.xx". I say this because I have to believe Stern has their own QC standard %'s when testing each game. If one or the other doesn't meet some threshold then it doesn't go out the door. It sounds like Stern can't really call those % out publicly but again I feel like they should. If I knew how often one or more any given "software" related action should fail, I may not be so attune to or concerned about things like the low % of the T-Rex catch.
Now, back to the customer service of my distributor... After jumping on the phone with him today I won't be asking for any refund. I was unaware that the amount of $ he's spent on sending his tech out has already obliterated his margin on the sale of my machine. He also expressed that mine has been an anomaly when it comes to the 10 LE's he sold. No one else has either a) had all of the same issues or b) has reported them (they may have fixed issues themselves or still haven't paid attention/cared). I trust now that I simply got a lemon, but one that can be sweetened back to expected. And Stern themselves have been good at sending me new parts (albeit a bit slow). In summary, I feel that my dist. is an amazing human being who is going above and beyond. He could have told me to F off but instead took losses to make sure all is right. And while I still have the T-Rex and plunger issues, I'm confident that he'll still run that to solution if needed.
Yes, the plunger is still an issue. I'm awaiting parts. The T-Rex has been fixed physically to where I can only imagine once Stern gets it right software wise, the catching issue will subside. fooflighter snaroff PM me if you want more specific answers to your questions.
I hope others don't have all of the same issues I'm having but if they do I hope their dist/seller is as communicative and helpful as mine has been.

Awesome! Hang in there. I was in the same boat with my first pins a year ago. Before you know it you'll be through the tweaking, adjusting, and fixing phase and just playing. I know it feels like a long slog now, but it'll be worth it in the end when it's all dialed in and playing great for you.

#3365 4 years ago
Quoted from Indusguys:

When I make a fast shot to the Trex ramp it is not registering. The opto is working but not registering really fast shots. The opto looks like it is aligned properly, anything else to check? These are shots when Trex is up out of the way.

Maybe try the tape fix? Put electrical tape over the bottom half of the opto opening. Helped on mine for both left orbit and T-Rex shots. Could be worth trying.

#3426 4 years ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Is this the fix everyone is going with?
I can always start T-REX multiball, but outside of that, when it comes to starting modes, it registers like 10-20% of the time.
Most shots just seem to bounce of the jaw and roll back down.
Makes it pretty hard to play the game.

Seems like the main physical adjustments are 1) making sure the jaw is touching the ramp when lowered, 2) an opto adjustment so it will register and trigger the magnet for the catch if the ball hops up a bit entering the ramp, and 3) maybe flipper power to some extent (reducing power a bit). Other than repair issues like screws falling out it seems to be a combination of those adjustments that’s helped a lot of people, including me. I haven’t played with the software adjustments at all though.

#3429 4 years ago
Quoted from hawkmoon77:

I just installed my shooter rod. When I lifted the playfield I found yet another screw and washer in the bottom of the cab. After I installed the rod, I lowered the PF and heard a rattle. Looked under it and there was another screw. This makes about 6 or so random washers and 4 screws that have fallen off or onto the PF from unknown sources. Is anyone else having this issue?

So far no screws in the bottom of the cabinet for me (probably just jinxed myself though). But I have been re-tightening the posts at the entrances to the ramps every couple weeks. Those and a couple other posts seem to loosen up pretty easily.

2 weeks later
#3670 4 years ago
Quoted from ShineSpark:

Hey guys,
So I'm ADORING!!! this game (got a premium) but as a first time pin owner I'm wondering if there are a few things I'm missing vis a vis proper setup. I know this is a difficult pin but my top score thus far is 550 mil and I can't seem to get anything going for the vast majority of my games. Haven't come close to any of the mini wizard modes even if I'm focusing on a single one because:
- Tons of outlane drains, often a surprise
- Brick many shots from the left flipper (A, O and S shots all difficult, C to a degree as well) I am much more able to make the loop and the tower shot from the upper flipper than make anything reliably from the lower flippers except for the middle spinner and the T-Rex ramp.
- Very hard to gain control of the ball and even post passes are tough
Now, I know, GIT GUD, but there's more to that I think, I'm 95 percent certain I just haven't dialed everything in properly? For example even though I have the pitch set to 6.5 degrees currently (steeper than the shooter lane level bubble setting) things feel a little sleepy around the flippers, dead bounces go all over the place. First thing I did was wipe the playfield and apply blitz, everything is lightning fast when the ball is in motion but I'm wondering if I should crank the back legs to get 7 degrees?
Also I'm running 0.96 (reset some of the default flipper power levels if I read the readme correctly) but I haven't messed around much with flipper strength which I plan on doing tomorrow. Again, the biggest issue for me is shots from the left flipper (C shot from the right is difficult but often manageable) so I will do some tests tomorrow but I'm curious as to how others have their power settings and if they've noticed a difference?
Perhaps with a steeper pitch and maybe some lowered power settings I'd be in business?
FYI my playfield looks to have no issues and my T-Rex grabs all direct shots and even some questionable ones. Very glad too that rejects seem to get credit to start a mode even if the Rex doesn't pick up the ball. My only concern right now is that my helicopter spinner seems to ever so slightly make contact with the wireform and I'm afraid to try and bend it too much because it exerts pressure on the slings. I've just applied a little pressure with my fingers and it seems to clear it for a few games before "tictictictic"

Seems like you’re on the right track. Definitely try adjusting flipper power also. Dialing it in is fun and takes fiddling with pitch and flipper power to find a setup you like. A slight difference in pitch can require a change to flipper power. The S shot shouldn’t be too difficult off the end of the flipper from a cradled ball. My experience overall has been that lowering flipper power helps.

For the helicopter spinner there was posting somewhat recently showing a good explanation of how to adjust it.

#3755 4 years ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Were you able to do this by just pulling the game out onto the service rails?
And are the nuts not easy to find? Looks like they're right out in the open.

Yes, you can do it by just pulling it out onto the service rails. If I remember correctly one of the nuts isn't visible and it's kind of a blind shot to get the nut driver onto it, but the nuts are in a symmetrical rectangle so you can get an educated guess on where to go after it based on the position of the others. I think it was the lower right nut (from the front as you're facing the back box) that was out of sight. Also, I think the T-Rex jaw closes after a few seconds so it may take a few tries setting the vertical position, opening the jaw, and tweaking the vertical position again, and lowering the jaw again to get it where you want it. There isn't much room in the screw holes to make a big change to the position of the mount, but it only took a very slight adjustment to make a difference.

#3756 4 years ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Were you able to do this by just pulling the game out onto the service rails?
And are the nuts not easy to find? Looks like they're right out in the open.

One other thing: Again if I'm remembering right I think the best way to adjust the nuts is with the T-Rex in the center position of the vertical test, not with it's jaw lowered. So check the jaw position, return the T-Rex to the middle position of the vertical test in software, adjust the nuts, lower the jaw & check it, then repeat as needed. I remember not being able to adjust the mount position very much if the T-Rex was in the upper or lower position of the vertical test.

#3762 4 years ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

But wouldn't the lower position allow you to adjust so it is lightly touching the ramp once the jaw opens?
In the middle position, how could you tell how closely it is contacting the ramp?

My recollection was that, for some reason, when the T-Rex was in the top or lower position of the test the bracket didn't move as much for an adjustment as it did when the T-Rex was in the middle position. I might be wrong, but I remember trying to adjust with the T-Rex in the lower position, and when I loosened the nuts to adjust it the bracket didn't move much. Then when I tried to adjust with the T-Rex in the middle position and loosened the nuts the bracket moved much more for an adjustment. Again, I don't know why that would be the case and I could be remembering wrong. I know I ended up adjusting with T-Rex in the middle position, re-tightened the nuts, used the test to lower it again and check it out, and then raised it back up to the middle position to adjust again a couple times before I got it set at a spot where the jaw was touching the ramp but wasn't so far down it would get stuck open. It might work other ways also. That's just how I did it. It took some trial and error.

#3825 4 years ago

Hate to bring up an old & aggravating topic, but has anyone heard anything about when Stern Jurassic Park shooter rods might be available again?

#3829 4 years ago
Quoted from Green-Machine:

Mine comes off the wire form and bounces from side to side and way out of reach of the upper flipper. Impossible to hit. Is this not the norm for others?

You mean when it’s coming off the pteranodon ramp? It should come off that wire form and immediately hug the ball guide and then transition smoothly onto the flipper.

#3885 4 years ago

Has anyone had an issue with their T-Rex pushing against the left ramp return wire form and making a grinding noise after it catches the ball and starts shaking around? I've noticed the past few weeks that when the T-Rex does it's thing moving back and forth with the ball in its mouth it will occasionally be too low as it shakes its head toward the center of the playfield and it ends up stuck against the wire form for a few seconds. It will start out swinging its head above the wire form, then as part of its dance it will lower while it's shaking its head and hit it. It then backs itself off & lifts up higher and usually drops the ball back onto the wire form, but the past few days it has sometimes not found the adjustment to find where to drop the ball on the wire.

Overall everything else seems to be working normal with it. The center position and vertical position look normal. It doesn't hit the wire form when it doesn't have a ball in its mouth. A lot of the time with the ball it does clear the wire form, but it seems to be happening more frequently that it sometimes doesn't and that grinding noise on the motor when it happens doesn't seem good. It seems like it's just bad choreography and the programming needs to have it hold its head higher, but I thought I'd check to see if anyone else is having this happen. Any ideas?

#3925 4 years ago
Quoted from Freakyguy666:

Just out of curiosity, if the trex were properly centered with the spacers removed from the ramp entrance cover, and ~1/4 of good shots still bounce off the Trex, would this imply flipper strength may need to be reduced? I’ve reduced mine to 235 for the right flipper and not sure if going lower would negatively affect other shots.

For me, reducing flipper strength a lot on all flippers has made the T-Rex, C lane, rapter tower, and S lane shots more reliable to make (not rattling out as much). There seems to be a balance to find in the setup between pitch angle and flipper power. I'd say definitely try a bunch of games lowering power by different amounts on each flipper until you feel like the shots are consistent for each one on your game.

#3928 4 years ago
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:

True. Took about an hour.....one ramp left to go, control tower.
Boy does the ball fly in Combos when the game is tweaked!

Nice! I dialed my upper right flipper back more than I guessed I would. Got fewer rattle outs and the ball still goes light speed around the left orbit. Isn’t that an amazing feeling when you string a couple fast shots together on this game? It just flows together so smoothly.

#3931 4 years ago
Quoted from bemmett:

What do you have your flippers set at for all of them? I get a ton of rattled balls as well, figured it was mostly my bad shooting but maybe this will help a little.

I spent a lot of time doing, umm... research? on my game last weekend. It sounds better to say it’s research instead of saying I was just having fun playing pinball right?

Probably the best adjustment I can make will be to improve my shooting skills though I currently have it at about 6.9 degrees by the flippers, and I’m pretty sure none of my flippers are above 230 for power (the lower right might be at 230 or 232 though, I forget where I’ve landed on it for now). I think I’ve even dialed the upper right all the way back to about 220. I’ll probably look again at increasing them a bit to see where I like I best though.

I think the most important adjustment I made was to get the ball to transition more smoothly from the ball guides to the upper right flipper and the left flipper. The ball was hopping out away from them instead of rolling smoothly down the face of them. HUGE difference in play once I adjusted that. I think it was much more important than pitch and flipper power.

I played a JP2 in Key West at an open air pizza place on Duval Street a couple weeks ago. It was set up really well and I’m trying to mimic the feel of that one on mine. For some reason I didn’t think to use the PinGuy app on the glass of it to check out the pitch to use as a reference. I guess I’ll just need to do more... umm... research this weekend

#3940 4 years ago
Quoted from JediMcMuffin:

Can you share your settings?

Yep, I can do it when I get home tonight. It would be neat if someday the machines could get connected to the internet and could share information to a Stern database. Then maybe we could see what percentage of people have each flipper power set at and get ideas from that as to where to start in tinkering with it.

#3948 4 years ago

Wow! Lots of good stuff in the update. Can’t wait to play more and explore it all!!!

Super Tranq = “Here Spiney Spiney Spiney” Boom!

#3949 4 years ago
Quoted from Flipstream:

I wonder if this removes the need for raising/taping optos now.

Also awesome, I can re-enable the knock sound again.

Seems like it should, unless the ball is blowing through all the optos in the entire orbit too fast. I’m wondering if this update could lead to some false orbit credits during multiball if a slow ball only passes the entrance opto while another ball triggers a switch or a different opto in the orbit.

#3954 4 years ago
Quoted from JediMcMuffin:

Can you share your settings?

I’ve got 6.9 pitch. Upper right flipper 216. Right flipper 229. Left 230.

#3959 4 years ago

I played some again this evening and was still frustrated by the slight hop remaining in the transition to the left flipper from the ball guide. It looks like the issue is that the ball guide isn’t a fraction of an inch past the pivot end of the flipper like it is on the right. That hop away from the flipper is why I’ve had to dial down the right flipper power so much. Here are pictures of my right and left taken at identical angles. The guide from the right isn’t blocked by the flipper but the left just barely is. Doesn’t look like I can adjust the guide. Is it possible to adjust the flipper position a bit in the hole?

29E2224C-C33D-4923-8EFB-13DBECE3FDF6 (resized).jpeg29E2224C-C33D-4923-8EFB-13DBECE3FDF6 (resized).jpegF8831A11-7F66-4E7C-BF1E-C9276CC89724 (resized).jpegF8831A11-7F66-4E7C-BF1E-C9276CC89724 (resized).jpeg
#3960 4 years ago

Is it my hearing or is there a new actor doing a bunch of the old call outs?

#3975 4 years ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

You can adjust the guides slightly. Loosen all 4 screws in the guide and then while holding the guide in the desired position, test a couple ball rolls and when satisfied, retighten...it doesn't take much...

As the game says, "REMARKABLE!!!" Thank you so much!!! That did it for me. I was just barely able to get the probably 1/16" of play in the guide I needed and now the ball seamlessly transitions and rolls down the face of the flipper. I just tested it in game play too and, Scouts honor, my first two shots off the plunge were left ramp skill shot followed by S lane on the fly. Then just a couple shots later I did the same combo on the fly again. The ball hasn't had flow to that flipper and the S lane like that since the game was delivered. After I played the machine in Key West I knew mine was lacking on that shot and this got me there. This is really going to open up the game for me. Thank you again!!!

#3976 4 years ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

I heard him too on a bunch of callouts...It almost sounds like David Harbour (Hopper from Stranger Things)

Lol. Maybe they offered him some pizza and beer to stay a bit longer and record a few extra callouts and told him they're for Stranger Things.

#3983 4 years ago
Quoted from per3per3:

Question regarding the smart missle awards. I've read that you can select different awards before taking the shot via the action button. How do I know what award is being selected? When the ball is trapped and the smart missle countdown is occurring, I push the action button and can hear different sounds but don't seem to understand how I know what award I'm selecting. I watch the screen but don't see any visual indicators.

It’s written on the bottom of the screen and you’ll see the selection change as you push the button. The lettering doesn’t really jump out so it’s not really noticeable until you realize it’s there and you know where to look, but it’s there.

#4028 4 years ago

I'm still really digging the new code. Played a bunch the last two nights and several times heard a call out for the super tranquilizer. Is that awarding another one or is it just reminding me I still have my original one to use? I think it's saying "Super Tranq loaded" or something like that. The code update notes say the award of a super tranq isn't stackable and is re-lit with raptor tower awards but they don't say how many raptor tower shots are required, so I'm not positive if it's awarding me a new tranq on that callout or not. If it is a new one, then I should probably be using my original one sooner instead of hanging onto it and then getting the reload to use on T-Rex or Spiny, right? This code has been fun to play from day 1 and just keeps adding really great stuff.

After adjusting the ball guides to the left and upper right flippers last night my game is playing COMPLETELY different (in a good way). I'm not having to fight it anymore to make shots and combos. I thought it had great flow and shots before, but now everything is even WAY better and it's amazing. I was able to kick my left flipper power up and now I can hit the S lane on the fly and still pull the ball through the spinner lane and sometimes to the T-Rex mouth, and also still backhand the raptor pit. Really lets me pick whatever path I want to go for. Until now POTC was still my favorite game to play, but with JP2 dialed in like this it's just incredible and right there with it.

#4031 4 years ago
Quoted from Freakyguy666:

So what’s your left flipper power at now? >235?

I bumped the left one up to 242. I kept the right flipper where it was though for making the T-Rex catch.

#4047 4 years ago
Quoted from kse001:

Old question, but I've reviewed the key indexed posts and they don't seem to help: my T-rex jaw is about half to 3/4 of an inch above the ramp when opened, so it obviously never catches any balls. I've tried following the instructions given (as I understand them, anyway) and loosened the 4 nuts holding the motor bracket, but there does not seem to be any way to adjust it so the head goes lower. I can push the bracket down a bit which makes the head go higher, but I am not able to pull the bracket any higher to make the head go lower. Am I misunderstanding the instructions and/or doing something wrong?

I had my best results adjusting the T-Rex bracket when the head was in the middle position of the vertical motor test. I remember when it was in the lower position of that test I wasn't able to adjust the bracket much, so I moved it to the vertical motor position, adjusted the nuts, re-tightend them, put the playfield back into position, and then did the jaw lowering test again. It was a bit of a pain to have to keep moving the playfield back and forth from the service position and moving the T-Rex back and forth from the lower to the middle position of the test before adjusting the bracket, but I found I was able to adjust it better while the T-Rex was in that middle position. Hope this helps.

#4067 4 years ago
Quoted from kse001:

Thanks. I tried again today and made sure to center the head before trying to adjust but it's still not working. I have the bracket as high as I can get it because the screws with the nuts are butted up against the very edge of the "U" shaped notches in the motor bracket so it physically can't move any higher. I tried loosening the machine screws on the upper portion of the mech (where the head is attached) to see if there was any play there that would help but no-go. I guess I'll contact Stern for advice.

Bummer. Hope you can get it worked out. I don’t know if it will help but I just took this picture of my bracket to maybe use as a reference point if you want to see if your bracket is in about the same position relative to the cutout hole.

9558F21F-1EFE-40CD-AA7D-CDD9022E6B98 (resized).jpeg9558F21F-1EFE-40CD-AA7D-CDD9022E6B98 (resized).jpeg
#4122 4 years ago
Quoted from Royale-W-Cheese:

I am unboxing stuff and just opened my new lighted frame . Here are 2 pictures. One is the Stern and one is from midcoastsurf.
You guys decide which one you like better. A video would be better as the new frame kicks ass. Love the options to change things up.
I need to find a new translite to trade or buy with someone . I dont need both the same. One came with the trade.
Now my collection is complete. Yes I know...famous last words.[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from Royale-W-Cheese:

What's up All,
Long time no see. I just got home for a brutal 12 day biz trip. I see we have a new code.
Time to install and pay some attention to Sue.
Have a great day.

Brutal 12 day biz trip? Looks more like you've been running around with another machine behind our backs

#4125 4 years ago
Quoted from Royale-W-Cheese:

That was before I left...LOL.
I wish I didnt have to go and just stay home playing my 3 pins. HAHA

LOL, a player’s got to play!

#4131 4 years ago
Quoted from crwjumper:

I got something pretty cool to go with my premium at Expo. During the "Making of Jurassic Park seminar Keith gave me a signed one-of-one CAD drawing that they used to create the game. Going to frame it up eventually and hang it over the game.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Very nice! That’s really incredible!!!

#4156 4 years ago
Quoted from MrBubbles:

I've done some searches and looked at the various Trex adjustment key posts and can't find where it talks about adjusting the Trex so it drops the ball properly on the ramp after it's fed. It seems to catch the ball fine... but when it goes to drop the ball on the ramp safely it drops it just short of the ramp. Is there a way to adjust for that without throwing off the calibration for when it eats the ball? Thanks!

I don't remember an issue like that being mentioned before.

#4162 4 years ago
Quoted from MrBubbles:

I think I already have that disabled. I believe he's trying to calmly drop it on the ramp. He's just coming up short.

Yep, even with the throw set at "no" it should still place it on the wire for you.

#4177 4 years ago
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:

Im Happy here.....Debating whether to hold the sign with two Torches, lit with really cool 36 SMD
Fire bulbs.
[quoted image]

LOL, I'm debating why you're debating whether or not to do it Would probably look great!

#4268 4 years ago
Quoted from Aetos:

When should the post go up when you shoot the right orbit is it every time?

I think it only happens when the truck is pointing right and it does not come up when the truck is left.

#4276 4 years ago
Quoted from 85vett:

Does this also happen in CHAOS MB?

I don’t know. Lol, during CHAOS I guess I’ve always been too focused on the balls at the flippers to notice if the post is coming up.

1 week later
#4390 4 years ago
Quoted from Manny65:

My raptor isn't moving, it moves freely by hand and doesn't seem to be getting caught on anything (as per the issues previously posted). I noticed the screw under the raptor on the metal bracket was loose, however when I tighten it the metal arm that makes the raptor lean forward doesn't move at all.
Has anyone got closeup photos of how this mechanism should look or be assembled (the manual doesn't show this)? Does the vertical component of the metal arm sit in front of the target in the raptor pit, so the ball hits it which pushes against the target switch and flips the back up to knock the raptor forward? Or does that piece sit behind the target? I've tried both but neither work.
Any help appreciated[quoted image]

I just looked at mine. The front plate of the bracket is in front of the target, so it gets hit and then pushes into the target. It seems like the bracket should only be held in place by a pin through the front that it pivots on. I circled one side of the pin in my picture. The screw in the middle of the bracket isn’t supposed to block the bracket or be holding the bracket down at all.

58EBAB0E-6B35-49C4-AA40-1AA0A2545E8C (resized).jpeg58EBAB0E-6B35-49C4-AA40-1AA0A2545E8C (resized).jpeg
#4391 4 years ago
Quoted from Green-Machine:

What is this?(within the circle pictured) My raptor does not have this
[quoted image]

That’s the hex post holding up the clear plastic piece between the raptor and the cabinet.

#4444 4 years ago
Quoted from per3per3:

I have a premium and freaking loving it. Luckily, I haven't experienced many of the issues discussed on this thread except for my TREX doesn't always grab the ball. I have read the threads and the key posts and I'm going to adjust the left/right bias to better center the mouth when lowered on the ramp. What is happening is that the ball sometimes just hits his open mouth with no catch. The lower jaw seems properly adjusted on the vertical axis, so I'm assuming it's an opto not registering properly issue. I read about the tape hack fix on the lower portion of the ramp entrance optos, the more permanent opto shim fix, as well as the removal of the ramp entrance black plastic spacers.
I'm curious for folks to weigh in to see what fixes they've applied to success. The removal of the black plastic spacers seems quite easy, but I'm concerned that, if lowered, the roof plastic at the ramp entrance will potentially clip the ball on faster moving shots and prevent it from going up the ramp smoothly. Perhaps that's not the case, but figured I'd ping the community to see what folks have observed.
Thanks!

Similar to yours, mine was working pretty well initially but some clean shots weren’t being caught. I did the tape fix and it made a difference. After that almost all shots that should be caught were being caught.

#4448 4 years ago
Quoted from per3per3:

Appreciate your response, but I'd prefer not employing the tape fix since it doesn't look very good. Was hoping to get some feedback on the removal of the black spacers fix

I tried removing the spacers and for my machine it didn’t improve the results. After I did the tape fix and it improved things I put the spacers back on.

#4450 4 years ago
Quoted from woody76:

I must have missed it, but what is the tape fix? Mine rarely misses a ball so I might not even need it anyway

It involves putting electrical tape across the lower part of the opening in the guide rail for the opto beam. This helps the opto trigger on fast shots by preventing light from bleeding around the lower part of the ball, which can result in the opto beam not being broken long enough to register on a fast moving shot. I did it on the opto for the left orbit also. Here’s a link to a post I made when I did mine. First pic shows tape on the orbit opto and the T-Rex ramp. Second pic is just the ramp.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/65#post-5328626

#4491 4 years ago
Quoted from yancy:

One time my t-rex stopped capturing right after a code update. Turns out it was a complete coincidence. One of the screws on top of the ramp entry post worked itself loose, allowing the clear plastic roof to ride up, which was all it took for the ball to jump the opto.

But how is that possible when the opto is INSIDE the T-Rex mouth? Lol. I couldn't resist that one. Just intended as a little humor

#4522 4 years ago
Quoted from yancy:

This is simply incorrect. Try it with the glass off. Ramp opto activates the magnet. Mouth opto by itself does nothing.

It's on a short timer.

I think Yancy is right about this. And I think Keith Elwin is probably right about it also. From Keith Elwin:
“If the ball goes into the mouth but doesn't grab try removing the spacers on the clear roof plastic at the front of the ramp. This is there to make sure the ball trips the ramp optic in order to fire the mouth magnet.”

Here’s a link to the post where he wrote it:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/13#post-5217546

#4524 4 years ago

Anyone noticed a bug, glitch, or whoopsie with the interaction between the start of a T-Rex mode and the smart missile? Last night I started T-Rex multiball with a shot caught by the T-Rex. With the ball in it’s mouth, There was a callout saying smart missile ready and the post at the left inlane came up and went right back down. The T-Rex released the ball to the wire return and I flipped it, then right after I flipped it the smart missile countdown started. It seemed like the ball rolling over the inlane switch activated smart missile but the post wasn’t up.

Then tonight it was weird again. I started T-Rex multiball with a shot that wasn’t caught and the smart missile ready callout happened. The ball happened to go into the inlane and the post came up while the T-Rex multiball intro played. Then it suddenly flashed into the smart missile countdown but only said “3” and then the post went down. It didn’t finish the countdown beyond 3 and it didn’t let me choose the smart missile reward.

Just wondering if anyone noticed anything similar.

1 week later
#4541 4 years ago
Quoted from wheels:

I still need to try this. It may work, but regardless, my auto plunger gets progressively weaker throughout the game. Seems as if it's a problem on many Sterns.
I will also try reflowing solder to the joints. (Read in an older topic that the solder joint may not be conducting as well when it heats up.)
I will also perhaps try adding a cabinet bumper or something below the link just below the playfield that effectively places more of the plunger in the coil. (Also read this somewhere else.)
Anyone else experiencing weaker auto plunges the longer you play? Any other thoughts?

My auto plunger started getting really weak. I took the coil sleeve out and cleaned it out a bit, reassembled it, and it went back to firing 100% again. If I'd had the right size coil sleeve on hand I would have replaced it but just taking it out and cleaning it a bit seemed to do the trick. Of course it also might not have been the coil sleeve and instead something else might have been out of whack that I didn't realize and it got set back into alignment without me knowing it when I did this, but whatever was causing it got sorted out by removing & replacing the coil sleeve and now it's working great again.

#4548 4 years ago
Quoted from wheels:

I will keep this in mind. I can't get out of my mind how it seems fine when I first begin playing and then after a while it gets weaker. It seems to me, then, it may be electrical; e.g., cold solder joint. I'll just need to get in there and try some fixes. Replacing the coil sleeve will be high on my list. Thank you for the tip.

Mine was the same getting weaker as the game went on. I even cranked coil power way up and it had no effect - it was still weak and didn’t increase the launch power. I don’t know for sure whether or not the sleeve was the issue but taking it out, moving the plunger a couple times by hand with it out, and putting it back together somehow solved it on mine. On the first launch after I did that I’d forgotten to lower the coil power back down and it ripped out of there. This was about a week ago and so far it’s stayed strong. Hope you get yours figured out.

#4553 4 years ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Another issue I am having is that the flippers seem to be a lot weaker than when I initially started playing the game out of the box. I have other Sterns that have the same snappy power even after years of play.
I changed the coil stops but that did not do anything.
Anyone else experience this? Any suggestions?

LOL, after my last couple posts this is going to sound like I think coil sleeves are always the issue, but here goes anyway. I think it’s worth changing the flipper coil sleeves to see if it helps, since it’s something that probably needs to be done occasionally anyway. On my POTC the flippers lost their snappiness and I replaced the sleeves (the old ones coming out looked like they’d been in a coal mine) and cleaned off the mechanics and the snappiness returned. Not necessarily what’s going on with yours but replacing the sleeves and cleaning off the flipper linkages & joints is at least one thing worth trying before moving on to troubleshooting possible causes that are more complicated.

#4554 4 years ago
Quoted from yancy:

There's a new factory fix for the ramp otpo issue, involving this bad boy right here:
[quoted image]
Installation photos & instructions to come.

Do we need to contact Stern now to request it?

#4556 4 years ago
Quoted from yancy:

Yup!

Not sure yet. I'm going to install mine today and post instructions.

Yeah, contact Stern is what I was told. Maybe you can get it through your distributor as well? But I usually cut out the middle man for this kinda stuff.

Sounds good. Really appreciate the heads up. Thank you!

#4585 4 years ago
Quoted from m00nmuppet:

We have hit the 1.0 ! !
V1.00.0 - February 19, 2020
===========================
- When Dinosaurs Ruled The Earth - added a new Ultra Wizard Mode that is started if you complete Visitor Center, Museum Mayhem, Secure Control Room and Escape Nublar
- Escape Nublar - added intro blowoff when you press both flipper buttons
- Escape Nublar - extra balls awarded after starting Escape Nublar will award consolation points (15M)
- Escape Nublar Challenge - initial path you are spotted is determined by the direction of the Truck when the mode starts
- Visitor Center - fixed an issue where the Inlane Up Post would not come up to catch ball during a Fossil award / Tilt warning
- DNA Combos - now enabled
- DNA Combos - sound effect will now happen the moment the combo is achieved, the display effect may be queued up and displayed later if necessary
- DNA Combos - some of the harder combos have been made easier (check Instant Info for details)
- Super Combos - now score 5X instead of 3X
- Perfect Paddock - added a bonus 2x paddock bounty if all the staff is rescued from a paddock
- Super Combos - added new compy attack videos for super combos
- Instant Info - updated Rescues info page to track current percentage of staff rescued
- Instant Info - added instant info page to track DNA combos and how to collect them
- Instant Info - added instant info page to track Wildcard Fossils collected and how to collect them
- Skill Shot - added Ultra Super Skill Shot which starts a special hidden feature for that player's game
- Skill Shot - added MXV Skill Shot
- High Score Tables - added When Dinosaurs Ruled The Earth Champion
- High Score Tables - added Skill Shot Champion
- High Score Tables - added DNA Champion
- Raptor Tower Combos - fixed an issue where the tower combo text was occasionally being formatted improperly
- Action Button - fixed an issue where the lockdown button would turn green with no credits in the game
- Speech - fixed an issue where instruction speech could be heard after end ball
- Credit / Partial Credit Sounds - updated sound effects
- System - Updated to V2.44.0
- Updated to nodeboard firmware v0.57.0
- Updated 10 band graphic EQ to have 15 slider settings (was 120) above/below the
neutral center line.
- Rename Util->Volume->Speaker Balance to Speaker Fade. This adjusts the volume
levels of the cabinet (front) and backbox (back) speakers. The term Balance
was misleading and implied adjusting the level of the left and right backbox speakers.
- Adjustment Changes:
- removed 'NUBLAR CHALLENGE ON START PRESS' in favor of Standard Adjustment 'GAME MODE ON START' in the SPI adjustments. Defaults to STANDARD, set to CHALLENGE to always start Escape Nublar Challenge on start button press.

Wow! This looks amazing. New wizard mode, new skill shots with hidden feature. Awesome. Where do we think the new skill shots are? Maybe one would be an add on to the current double shot by finishing it with the smart missile shot? Can't wait to find it!

#4646 4 years ago
Quoted from wheels:

For my auto plunger issue - weak after playing a while - I installed a washer under left fork, pulled coil and sleeve and plunger apart and put back together, and re-flowed solder on a joint, and still have the same problem.
Stern tech support told me to switch node boards 8 and 9 to determine if node board before trying new coil.
Nobody else experiencing this?

The weak launch problem recurred on mine last weekend. I tried the same thing as before (removing the coil sleeve and working the plunger manually a bit) to see if whatever resolved it that time would work again but it didn’t work. So I started pushing a bit on connections. I pushed on the two wires connected directly to the coil and the connectors at the board and reseated the Ethernet cable on the board. All connections looked good but thought I’d try it anyway. Turned the machine back on and the plunge was back to 100% again. So now I’m thinking the only two spots in common that I moved/jostled both the first time it happened and this time are the two wire connections directly on the coil. They look solid but they might be loose somehow. If/when it happens again my plan is to only push on those two spots first to see if it resolves, and if so then that must be the problem spot. If not then it will probably mean one of the connections at the board is the issue.

#4649 4 years ago
Quoted from HurryUpPinball:

Thanks for the info. I took everything apart last night thinking it was the tiny gap between the rail guide and the wire guide in the orbit. Turn out it is a little cradle formed between the wire guide and the one way gate. When it is barely moving thru the gate, the gate and ball guide make a cradle. This only happens when the ball barely makes it through the gate. In my picture, that is the gate in the resting position.[quoted image]

Does anyone know if there’s a relatively easy way to take the wire off the gate and put it back on? I’ve looked at this cradle spot on my machine and it seems like bending the bottom of the wire down so it doesn’t extend out so far while also bending the U-shape that keeps it locked in the gate (to allow it to pivot up more for balls to pass under it) could eliminate the cradle spot for balls sticking there.

But it seems like there isn’t an easy way to get the wire off it to do the bending, and I tried bending it in place but it was a bit dicey doing that.

#4654 4 years ago
Quoted from JP76:

I removed mine and worked on it. I removed wire form (3 screws). Then I removed the rail that the bracket is attached to. First you have to remove the plastic piece that’s on top of it. The rail has one screw on top of the PF and one nut below the PF. You may also have to remove the roof on the tower to get the wire form back on. It really wasn’t bad. I had few issues with that gate and decided to do what was necessary to work on it.

Thanks. That’s what I was thinking. Not complicated to get at it but not simple. Looks like a good thing to take a look at on the weekend.

#4655 4 years ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

When I was monkeying with mine before I made the realization that all I had to do was lift the gate up a little bit I used some needle nose pliers and was able to take wire out that way..problem with bending the gate down and I think the reason they made it this way was to prevent ball rattling and allow a smoother flow through that lane pretty much the only reason I can see why the gate is angled and not straight vertical but it does make that CradlePoint an issue that if not installed from the factory just at the right height will cause a ball hang

So it was possible to turn it a couple different directions and get that curved end out and then put it back in? I might give that a try. Thanks.

#4656 4 years ago

5 months in and I’m still completely hooked on this game. The ball is flying through all the different shots, and all the different modes and rules just go so well together. I still haven’t made Visitor Center but I’m feeling it within reach now. What a game!!!

#4678 4 years ago
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:

Loaded 1.0, and Trex, for me, has improved!
Movement, Catch, and throw, I am seeing almost 100% now.
Love the DNA changes....
Still not sure on how to get the Fossils?

Fossil collection summary from Tiltforums rule sheet:
Set 1
Ankylosaurus - Collect both Raptor Super Jackpots
Brachiosaurus - Complete your 1st T-Rex mode
Set Reward - 20 million and +10x Pteranodon Multiplier (one time only)
Set 2
Velociraptor - Complete your 2nd T-Rex mode
Spinosaurus - Collect a Chaos Hurry-Up Super Jackpot
Gallimimus - Complete your 1st Control Room mode
Set Reward - 35 million and awards an Extra Ball
Set 3
Triceratops - Complete your 2nd Control Room mode
T. Rex - Complete your 3rd T. Rex mode
Dilophosaurus - Complete your 3rd Control Room mode
Set Reward - 100 million and +10x Amber (one time only)
Set 4
Compsognathus - Complete Visitor’s Center
Pteranodon - Complete Museum Mayhem
Stegosaurus - Complete Secure Control Room
Set Reward - 250 million and +10 Rescues

Wildcard fossils at:
Smart Missile (choices 3 or 4 might be “Fossil”)
6-Way Combo
25 Rescues
25 Tower Shots
28 Loops
Collect a 50M+ Pteranadon Attack shot

#4686 4 years ago
Quoted from Braindance:

I was also wondering about any bugs people may have noticed. I have mine in a bar and it's very popular, so I don't want to annoy players with any issues. I saw a couple people mention the skill shot not hitting. Anything else worth noting?

I haven't noticed anything major. My skill shots are working. Only bug I've seen is a minor one when starting a T-Rex mode when the smart missile shot is ready. Post comes up and then goes back down. Not a huge deal though.

#4708 4 years ago
Quoted from LoganJK:

Can you not adjust the coil strength on the flippers? I can't find it?

In menu select Adj, then Game, and then the flipper strength adjustments are somewhere around adjustment #290-300. Go backwards from #1 to find it fastest.

#4724 4 years ago
Quoted from LoganJK:

So after about 1000 plays our left flipper is very weak. The coil and sleeve both look normal and clean. Is step 1 replace the coil and see if that fixes it?

I’d check the coil stop first. There have been a lot of issues with them. Here’s a post showing a picture of the problem. If it looks like the rivet is there still take it off to check it though because it the rivet could be there and look secure when it’s actually not attached anymore.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park/page/48#post-5275530

#4764 4 years ago
Quoted from Green-Machine:

How many of you suck at playing your JP?
I do!!

I’m in that club! It feels so good hitting shots and combos one minute and then I just lose the feel suddenly. If I could hit the right ramp consistently I’d do a lot better, but for some reason I just can’t find it very well. I hit the raptor tower, C lane and helipad a lot more reliably than the right ramp. Having tons of fun playing this game every day though!

#4776 4 years ago

In the middle of a game tonight I hit the first three shots of the skill shot on a new ball and when the ball came down the wire from the raptor tower the smart missile shot started, so I couldn't take the shot at the O lane to complete the skill shot. I hit abort smart missile hoping the lane would stay lit for it but it didn't. I'm 99% sure I only had a 1% chance of making the fourth shot, but still... Anyone else notice this happen?

#4781 4 years ago
Quoted from Aetos:

I have made the last skillshot several times but haven’t seen any special hidden feature?

I’ve hit it only once or twice and also wasn’t able to figure out what the added feature was. I’m guessing I didn’t make it far enough in the game to find out.

#4783 4 years ago
Quoted from per3per3:

If you're talking about the new 4th shot in the skill shot involving the O lane (left ramp, right ramp, side "ramp", and O lane), you get an audio and video callout and an extra bonus. I forgot what it's called exactly, but it's a something like a double-super skill shot. It's hard to miss but the ball does have to make it cleanly up through the O lane and trip the right orbit opto to register.

That could be all there is. The release notes for 1.00 said the following so I’ve been thinking there’s more to it.

- Skill Shot - added Ultra Super Skill Shot which starts a special hidden feature for that player's game

1 week later
#4841 4 years ago
Quoted from ViperNation:

Just reported the following defect to Stern following an upgrade of my LE from .97 to 1.00. I think someone else mentioned something similar on this forum but can't find it at the moment.
Previous versions of the code have the lower left post come up and stay up for a few seconds, then it would drop, allowing for proper aiming of the smart missile target. In V 1.00 (and possibly .98 which I skipped) the post pops up randomly at some point with the ball nowhere near and then immediately drops, resulting in the smart missile missing 100% of the time.

Yep it's happened to me when a T-Rex mode is starting and smart missile is qualified, and I first noticed it after 1.00 code. Ball comes down the wire and the post pops up but drops right back down and the ball rolls through while the smart missile countdown starts. Probably a bug that they'll address.

#4896 4 years ago
Quoted from Arcade:

Just got our Premium in and set up yesterday.
Two quick questions that I’m sure are answered in this thread someplace already.
1. Where should the tip of the upper flipper point to on the black post below it?
Ours is set from the factory off to the right so that when a ball comes around it will pop off the post. Is that normal?

That flipper alignment is as designed. Here's what Keith Elwin posted about lining up flippers with the alignment holes:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/96#post-5516155

#4916 4 years ago
Quoted from Royale-W-Cheese:

While we stuck in our homes, what cool things have happened on your pins??
So bored.................man i wish I had 10 pins...lol.

I dunno what happened but it seemed like my pins got turbo juice today. They're all playing faster off all coils (flippers, pops, everything). Out of nowhere and completely by accident I made it up the T-Rex ramp backhanded from a cradle at the left flipper (I was shooting for the spinner lane). Also (again by accident), a shot made it all the way up the tower ramp from the left flipper off a bounce off the post at the tip of the upper right flipper (shooting for the O lane). Neither of those shots had happened on my machine before in all the games I've played. Then within a minute of it happening the first time another shot from the left made it up the tower off of the same post bounce. So twice in a minute after never happening before. And coil settings hadn't been changed.

It might have something to do with the line power coming into the house changing. Houses across the street had power out today. Last time I noticed this type of extra juice on my pins the transformer on the pole behind our house blew a day or two later. Fingers crossed it doesn't happen again, but in the meantime... turbo pinball is fun!

#4917 4 years ago
Quoted from Royale-W-Cheese:

While we stuck in our homes, what cool things have happened on your pins??
So bored.................man i wish I had 10 pins...lol.

Just played a few games from my knees for the heck of it. It was kind of fun. Kind of a neat view with the ball coming more right at your eyes. And yes it’s been cool and wet outside for a week on top of shelter in place so me doing this is definitely a sign we’re getting a bit stir crazy.

#4935 3 years ago

FINALLY made it to Visitor's Center!!! Had been getting to the last paddock for weeks and finally broke through. Got a 240M bonus, and then of course proceeded to drain ridiculously quickly and only got 10M on the mode. This game just got its hooks into me even deeper. Too much fun!!!

#4939 3 years ago
Quoted from per3per3:

Could you possibly post a few pics of your properly aligned upper flipper? I just re-aligned mine so that the tip of the flipper was centered on the post...this provides a little more clearance to hit that shot up the 180 ramp. As others have recently pointed out, I'm now experiencing close to center drains if I hit that loop and just let it come down to the lower flippers. I read Keith's post but could really use a few visuals of how a properly aligned upper flipper looks from the player's perspective and close up.
Thanks!

Here’s a picture of mine. Edge of the flipper should be lined up with the guide hole at the end of the poorly drawn red arrow. Mine should probably even go another fraction of an inch back toward the S lane. Hope this helps.

52F6C224-D407-4901-A305-46121A71049A (resized).jpeg52F6C224-D407-4901-A305-46121A71049A (resized).jpeg24B27CEE-EB8F-4E1A-89D3-7E1AC3FA6477 (resized).jpeg24B27CEE-EB8F-4E1A-89D3-7E1AC3FA6477 (resized).jpeg
#4944 3 years ago
Quoted from per3per3:

Interesting...I appreciate the pic. I'm pretty sure that mine was adjusted like yours from the factory. I just felt like many shots to the 180 ramp were clipping the flipper rubber and losing steam and thus not making it up the "ramp." After adjusting to center the flipper tip to the post, I can make more successful shots up the 180...it's actually a noticeable improvement. That said, now the ball will loop and hit the tip of the lower right flipper. It's not a drain, but if you don't see it coming than it could be.
With your alignment, what the ball do on both fast and slow loops?
Thanks!

On mine, for slow and medium speed loops the ball falls down off the guide and hugs the face of the flipper, so it then takes a more noticeable hop off the post. On fast and really fast loops the ball doesn't fall down off the guide and hug the face of the flipper as much, so sometimes it will catch a bit of the post and sometimes will miss it. Overall I don't have issues with SDTM coming from the loop though. It happens only once in a great while and pretty much only during multiball when I don't have a chance to see it coming and try to clip it with the end of the flipper. Now of course I'm sure I just jinxed myself with that

#4945 3 years ago
Quoted from bgwilly31:

Is adjusting flipper alignment easy ive never done it before.
My Upper flipper has definitely started to sag.

Mechanically it's pretty straightforward. Just one spot to loosen and then move the flipper and crank it tight again. The trickier part is 1) holding the flipper still when you re-tighten so it ends up aligned where you want it and 2) making sure you don't have the flipper sitting higher or lower from the playfield (the flipper gap) than it was before you loosened it. I think the rule of thumb is a credit card should fit between the playfield and flipper. I've only done it once myself.

#4952 3 years ago
Quoted from StoneyCreek:

You ever get that sinking feeling when you get your first NIB pin, get it all set up, play a couple of games and on the 3rd game the machine suddenly goes dark and quiet? In the middle of a game. dead. no sound, no display no lights.
Then you check the outlet, check the power cable, check the fuse in the back box,
then you see the little red lights on the CPU and on the node boards are lit nicely, but nothing else? so you
re-seat the smart card, check every.single.connector.not.once.but.twice and still nuthin?
I was prepared to play for hours tonight ...but now I wait for a new CPU to be sent to me. I hope that's really the issue.
Good news is that Chris at Cointaker and Pablo at Stern were fantastically responsive and are on it! Cointaker (Melissa) rocks for even getting my JP Pre shipped to me during these trying times. gratitude.

Ugh, it'd be a big understatement to say that's a bummer! Awesome that they're getting you what you need for it though. Hope you can get it up and running soon.

#4978 3 years ago
Quoted from jacksparrow0112:

Looking for some help eliminating 2 areas that are currently causing stuck balls. One area is on the end of the gate into the pops. Seems to get hung up here a lot. In area 2, the plastic ceiling between the control room target and the raptor target seems to sag and really cause stuck balls. Shaking to the point of tilting doesn’t even budge it. Would love to know how to fix both of these. Thanks![quoted image][quoted image]

For the gate in the pops, have you checked that your machine is level left to right? I just took the glass off mine and tried to place a ball there and it wouldn’t stay. That gate and rubber are sloped to let the ball roll away. I then tried to recreate your picture to compare my gate to yours. See my picture below. Mine doesn’t look like it’s set up much different from yours, but if your machine is level then maybe try adjusting your gate so it rests a fraction of an inch further out.

For the stuck ball in the raptor cage have you tried loosening the screw I circled in red in your picture below (or another screw in that area that might be holding that plastic tight)? Loosening it just a bit might give it enough wiggle to not have the ball stick there. Just an idea and I don’t know though if loosening it too much might increase the risk of the plastic breaking.

71D480AE-02B3-408E-8CA3-67BA331AFA78 (resized).jpeg71D480AE-02B3-408E-8CA3-67BA331AFA78 (resized).jpegE970D55F-57B7-446A-9EF7-329FF06CE823 (resized).jpegE970D55F-57B7-446A-9EF7-329FF06CE823 (resized).jpeg
#4979 3 years ago
Quoted from ShineSpark:

Hi folks,
So I managed to reattach my Trex's jaw when it fell off but ever since the head has been on the low side of things.
I am trying to adjust as per one of the pinned posts but I find it very hard to get in behind there. When I slide the playfield out towards the front of the pin as far as the resting rails underneath will allow, there's still not a terrific amount of room to maneuver behind the Trex head.
Am I missing something? Pretty new at this. The only other position I can think of is to see if I can go further, and rest the rails on a table of appropriate height right in front of the pin?
Thanks for rescuing an idiot!
Evan

I don’t think you’re missing anything. There isn’t a lot of room to get at that area and it’s a bit of an awkward angle to get at it.

#4993 3 years ago
Quoted from Arcade:

Takes a bit of tweaking but we finally have our game really dialed in and smooth.
Just got finished fixing a little bit of ball hop on the left flipper by loosening up the lane guide screws and pushing up slightly and then tightening them back down. Smooth as glass now.
Also lowered the flipper power a bit as per all the instructions in this thread and that really helped a lot as well.
The only issue left and it does not effect game play, is that when our T-Rex roars he will swing his head towards the left side of the cabinet (his right) and bash our electric fence post with all the wires on it.
He hits it fairly hard, but not enough to snap it off, yet.
I hate to mess with him because he is great on the ramp ball pick up and every place else. Just that he loves to roar and slam the hell out of that fence post.
Is there a setting to stop this?

Mine's been hitting against that post since I got it out of the box in Sept., and it hasn't caused a problem so far.

#5016 3 years ago
Quoted from LMTLESS:

Left ramp (TREX) skill shot... I have a new JP Premium and after about 2 weeks of using it, the left ramp TREX is not registering 25% of my skill shots. Any suggestions?

This post had some info that might help. I think the left ramp test is under Diagnostics/Game.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/93#post-5484113

#5056 3 years ago
Quoted from Astropin:

So I downloaded the entire guide on how to adjust the T-Rex to grab the ball. Got him perfectly centered...easy peasy. But NOWHERE in the guide does it explain what to do if the head is not coming down far enough? Help! My T-Rex head is way too high to be able to grab the ball...it just bounces off his lower jaw 100% of the time.

Here's the main instruction from Stern on what needs to be done to have the open jaw just above or just touching the ramp:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/18#post-5228793

Here are a few posts I made about my experience with it:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/76#post-5379487

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/76#post-5379516

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/76#post-5379941

#5058 3 years ago
Quoted from Dokkaebi:

First I've heard of the new ramp protector. My left ramp hasnt been the smoothest shot since I've gotten mine. Curious what this piece looks like.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/94#post-5500965

#5066 3 years ago
Quoted from Ryeryerulz:

T-Rex issues after the code update.
Game was playing great, NIB with 350 plays so far and after the update (might be a coincidence) the T-rex has rendered the park closed.
When entering a T-rex encounter or T-rex chase, the ball does not get picked up by the T-rex, it gets spit out and the ball rolls back into the play field and the shot doesn't register. It works to acquire the T-rex multi-ball and plays well through that, but when the T-rex stops working during a T-rex encounter or chase you cannot hit the T-rex ramp or start another paddock.
It still does not pick it up for T-rex multi-ball but it did trigger the m-b. We are brand new to Pins and are a bit overwhelmed with the adjustments and the options available to run diagnostics. Not really even sure how to run the diag. We tried, but are not even sure we know what we are doing.
Help from the community. Thanks.
PS. We just added the shaker motor this morning also, but it was doing this before the install.

When you installed the code, did you make sure to install the code version for your version of game (Premium or LE)? The Stern website has three versions of code to download, one for each machine type (Pro, Premium, LE). Maybe if you didn't install the code version that matches your machine type this could have started happening? I don't know for sure but thought I'd throw it out there as an idea.

#5122 3 years ago

Would be nice if the next code update fixes the smart missile glitch during T-Rex multiball where the post pops up and then goes right back down. Also would be nice if they changed smart missile so it doesn't activate and lift the post to interrupt/kill an attempt for the 4th shot of the ultra skill shot.

#5126 3 years ago
Quoted from TKDalumni:

Just stacked T-Rex MB with Invalid Frenzy. Never done that before...good points there!

Details? Did you start Invalid Frenzy off the smart missile while T-Rex MB was running?

#5151 3 years ago
Quoted from J-Freeze:

Mine has been doing that A LOT since the last update. Worked perfectly before, actually glad I'm not the only one.
Either coming up and sending the ball flying or coming up after the ball has passed, sucks when it happens during Invalid frenzy.

I've had it hit up into the glass there once, and it was after the last code update.

#5154 3 years ago

Is there a way to view the game log to see what switches/shots were made in a recent game? I looked through the menus and didn't see anything that said game log or anything similar. The last couple days just for fun I've been trying to complete the 6-way combo by mainly just shooting the spinner lane and then trying to finish it. Tonight I thought I hit the combo but it didn't award it. I got the Pteranodon DNA combo instead. I know 100% that I hit left orbit, tower, helipad, left ramp, and right ramp on consecutive shots and then on reflex I went back to the tower shot again after the right ramp. I'm 99% sure I started all that with a shot to the spinner.

I'm just curious to know if there's a way to go back and see what the game registered. I have the tape fix in place on the left orbit and haven't noticed issues with that shot registering, so I don't think that's it but I guess it could have been. I'm wondering if hitting the tower shot again at the end of it all meant the game looked at that as the final combo shot and for some reason awarded me Pteranodon DNA instead of Spinosaurus DNA. Also possible that I didn't start it with the spinner but I'd been playing to go for the combo so I'm pretty sure that's how I started it. Either way, it was an amazing rush to watch the ball flying through those shots. The flow on this game is awesome.

#5159 3 years ago
Quoted from WJxxxx:

I don't know the answer to your question regarding data logs, I doubt it.
However I think the issue may well be the timing of the spinner shot being awarded. Take for example the combo award for Spinner - Truck. I have had that award at times I would not necessarily expect, and not award when I have definitely made the shots. I've definitely been awarded it by glancing off the truck into the spinner.
I don't know whether the spinner is awarded after 2 spins, or after the last spin happens - with a fast shot the spinner can still be spinning by the time you hit the truck and not award it. Likewise depending on the contact made with the truck can significantly change the timings of when it is awarded.
FWIW - if you're going for ANY 6 way combo, rather than the Spinosaurus 6 way combo - my preference is Left ramp, Right ramp, Upper loop, Raptor Tower, Helipad finally Control room or Spinner. It also has the bonus of the first 4 shots are the MXV skillshot.

Thanks! If the spinner still spinning is an issue for counting combos then that definitely could have been what happened on mine. I like that 6-way combo you laid out too. I'll give that a try!!!

#5160 3 years ago
Quoted from ABE_FLIPS:

I have a question about accuracy.
I was quite frustrated with JP until i did some shot accuaracy training- i found on this skillguide:
http://wapinball.net/skillguide.pdf
alot of helpful tips!
it says i have to hit each shot 5 times in a row, then move on to the next shot. after that, i should start combining shots.
It improved my accuracy, but im not able to shoot every shot 5 times in a row and my accuracy is also not consistent.
i have to dial in my shots again each day beacause i loose the feeling for them.
how do you do this? do you have a routine or something? i want to get better!
JP can be so frustrating if you take more than 3 tries for a shot, and it can be so good if you combine your needed shots "on the fly"
like the skillshots. Just a hint for other frustrated players

Be patient, have fun playing, play as much as you can, and you'll keep getting better.

It took me probably 6 months playing a lot to keep the feeling for the shots on my POTC when I first started playing a lot of pinball. On Jurassic Park it took me a long time also, but part of that was because I spent a couple months making changes to pitch and flipper power to dial the shots in so I kept having to re-learn them. Once I kept flipper power and pitch the same it still took a month or so of playing a lot to develop the muscle memory to remember where the shots are.

And on Jurassic Park it only takes a small miss to cause a drain, so even though I can now hit most of the shots with a bit of consistency I still have trouble getting to the Visitor Center because it only takes 3 or 4 small misses and the game is over. So now I need to work on my ball save nudging skills. There's always something to learn

#5207 3 years ago
Quoted from beelzeboob:

Just about every other time, my T-Rex will, upon starting a T-Rex mode, lay his head down to his left (the player's right) and take a nap on the habitrail rather than center and open his mouth to be fed the ball. Not sure why this is happening. I took apart the head and made sure everything was tightened up, and I'm using all factory defaults in the code to control his head (except for ball hold strength since the ball kept falling out of his mouth).
Has anybody else seen this behavior, and if so, do you have any idea what causes it? Trying to avoid a call to Chas for something stupid.

This happened on mine once about a week ago. Hadn't happened before and hasn't happened since though.

#5213 3 years ago
Quoted from beelzeboob:

Thank you. I'm glad it's not just me. The infuriating thing is that I can't find anything consistent that causes it. It seems like if I turn the machine on and leave it on for a bit before playing, it won't happen...until today when that theory was completely backward. Then sometimes it seems like one day it'll play perfectly and the next the T-Rex takes a nap. I actually had a day when I rebooted the game and it fixed the problem. So what is that??? A code problem, or a hardware problem? I have no freaking clue...

Ok, so I guess I jinxed myself. I just played and it did it again on a T-Rex multiball start. It did its intro and then laid its head down on the side of the ramp for a quick snooze. When the ball went through the left ramp to start multiball it perked back up again though. Then when I started T-Rex chase a few minutes later in the same game everything was normal. Didn't happen in the next game I played after that either. Definitely odd.

#5281 3 years ago
Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:

Can someone lend a hand? I’ve had this problem since day dot. Tried varying playfield angles, double checked everything, but orbit shots continually hit the truck on the way around. Drives me crazy.

I had the exact same problem. Just needed to loosen the nut for the end of the ball guide at the orbit exit, push the end of the guide more toward the standup target that's there, and crank it back down tight. Moving the end of the guide just a very small fraction toward that target made the difference on mine. It took a VERY hard push to get it to move and to hold it in that position while someone re-tightens the nut for the ball guide. I reached from across the other side of the machine with the head of some pliers pushing against it while my son re-tightened it. On mine it worked great for a week or two and then I had to re-do it. Then I had to re-do it again about a month later, but now it's been a couple months since I've had to do it again (of course now I've jinxed it so I imagine I'll have to do it again this weekend). Here's what I posted when I did it:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/66#post-5328991

4 weeks later
#5368 3 years ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

You guys cranking legs all the way up to get 7? I've got the levellers more than half way put to get 6.5.

My front legs are almost all the way down, so pretty much all my pitch is from jacking the rear levelers up.

3 weeks later
#5597 3 years ago

Ok, anyone have a guess as to when they’ll fix the bug that causes the smart missile post to go up and the down (so not stopping the ball so you can take the shot) when T-Rex multiball starts? It’s been a bug for awhile now and it’s starting to, um, bug me a lot.

#5621 3 years ago

A couple times the past few days I’ve had a T-Rex event (other than T-Rex MB) start when the catch wasn’t made. I checked my settings and confirmed Game Adjustment #22 (T-Rex Event Starts on Ramp Enter) is still set to “No”. I know only T-Rex MB is supposed to start without a catch when the entrance opto is tripped. Any ideas? Can the mouth opto be tested in the switch test? I can’t figure out how to test that one since the mouth is closed in switch test.

#5622 3 years ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

A couple times the past few days I’ve had a T-Rex event (other than T-Rex MB) start when the catch wasn’t made. I checked my settings and confirmed Game Adjustment #22 (T-Rex Event Starts on Ramp Enter) is still set to “No”. I know only T-Rex MB is supposed to start without a catch when the entrance opto is tripped. Any ideas? Can the mouth opto be tested in the switch test? I can’t figure out how to test that one since the mouth is closed in switch test.

Something seems to have gone haywire in my program. I just tested it with the glass off. Changed setting #22 to “Yes” and triggered T-Rex MB AND T-Rex Chase by using something to block the entrance opto, so that was as expected.

But then I changed the setting back to “No” so T-Rex modes should only start with a catch and again turned the truck with my hand to activate T-Rex modes. Again used something to block the entrance opto and T-Rex Chase started just from doing that. Any ideas?

1 week later
#5677 3 years ago
Quoted from Lounge:

For me it’s a ‘should’ as a running ball will be more accurate if it’s not bouncing but I imagine not everyone shares my view. I’m a bit fanatical with making my machines run as perfect as possible.

Is it possible to get it perfect on JP2 though? Just curious because on mine when the ball is held and released at the left inlane post the ball is slow enough that it seems to fall just a bit into the gap between the end of the guide and the start of the flipper and causes a bit of hop. On my POTC the gap between the end of the guide and the start of the flipper seems just a bit smaller than the similar gap on JP2 so I don't get hop on any balls transitioning to the flipper regardless of how fast or slow they're going.

I've adjusted the JP2 guide up slightly (nudging toward the backbox) to eliminate the hop from balls coming faster down the inlane since those are going fast enough so they don't dip into that gap. I get smooth transitions from guide to flipper when balls are going medium or faster speed but it doesn't seem like the guide can be nudged toward the flipper to reduce that gap, so I still get a bit of hop on slower balls released from the post.

#5683 3 years ago
Quoted from Lounge:

Yes, I meant front to back when talking about adjusting the guide.
I agree in that I do not think you can change the gap between the flipper and the guide. I was able to move the guide to be essentially perfectly in line with the flipper... guess that’s a better way of saying it. And that has helped my shots quite a bit.

Thanks. Does yours hop also when releasing from the post? Out of curiosity I measured to check if what I thought I was seeing on my games was correct. The gap between the end of the straight edge of the ball guide to the flipper is about 1/2” on JP2. On my POTC it’s about 3/8”. Not much different but it seems make a difference. My STTNG is similar to the JP2 distance, but on that one the flipper edge is a bit offset lower than the edge of the ball guide (see the gap between the ruler and the flipper in the pic) so it doesn’t ever hop like my JP2.

Seems like the gap distance combined with the flipper edge being lined up closer with the edge line of the ball guide on JP2 makes it hop a bit on the releases from the post. Not a big deal but I thought it was interesting. At least now I know I probably can’t do anything to eliminate hop when releasing from the post so I can stop thinking about it

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#5690 3 years ago
Quoted from DeeGor:

Can you loosen the ball guide and adjust it so it sits slightly higher than the flipper? I had this issue on a Whirlwind I recently restored and the hop went away after I did this.

Yeah, I've nudged it as far up as it will go. I just re-nudged it again last weekend because it had slipped back down a bit so all balls were hopping instead of just the ones released from the post. It's not the worst situation in the world and I can certainly live with it for any game, let alone this great game. I was just curious about the gap alignment since it seems to be different compared to my other machines. This is also the first Stern game I've owned so I don't even know if they're typically set up like this on their machines, although I've never noticed it on location on other Stern machines. Thanks though.

#5714 3 years ago
Quoted from bloodydrake:

for those that love dino's and have more money then god maybe a warehouse or big lot at pinball conventions.
*Crocodile Dundie voice* Huh thats not a topper mate..this is a Topper!
Looks like the company has gone belly up and all the assets are going up for auction.

https://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/british-columbia/dinosaur-auction-in-langley-1.5651547?__vfz=medium%3Dsharebar&fbclid=IwAR1IBByJCdzERAk0wdu2T8DJ3ly3qBBrt5EQ2cPuCw_WzpEqpbTnNwdV5oU

Lol, that would be fun to get. Set one up next to a pin and rig it to chomp when you drain.

#5734 3 years ago
Quoted from MrBubbles:

I'm sure it's answered somewhere already on pinside, but my right flipper all of a sudden feels weaker than the left one. They both have the same power setting. I don't think it's my imagination. What is the first thing to check for that? I've heard "about crappy coil stops" on Stern games. I don't know what that is though. Any chance that's the issue and how would I check? Thanks in advance for any help!!!!

Here's a post with a picture of what it looked like on mine. There should be a rivet/bump of metal where the empty circle is:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park/page/48#post-5275530

Even if you look at it and see that the rivet is there, take the coil stop off and check to see that it's not just sitting there loose. It's just a couple screws so very easy to take the coil stop on and off.

#5752 3 years ago
Quoted from seenev:

Got enough mods on that game?
Congrats though. I've only ever gotten to 4 paddocks so far. They should add some kind of option to unlock a helicopter ride up to another paddock. Maybe make it possible to skip a few. You lose the points from the paddocks but get further in the game. This game is a little too linear in my opinion, as much as I love it.

The way I look at it, the game really isn't laid out much differently from most newer games. Complete 3 or 4 modes and have a mini wizard mode. Have 3 or 4 mini wizard modes in the game and if you get to all of them then you get the big wizard mode.

For JP2, the map is visually the main focus so it's what a person is likely going to think about first, but really it's just one of three mini wizard paths you can go for (map progression to visitor center, control room progression to Secure Control Room, and T-Rex progression to Museum Mayhem). So overall the game is set up with different ways to play and different mini wizard modes to go for, but I think because of the visual of the map it gives the perception of the game being more linear than it really is.

To say it a different way: I'm guessing that, even though it wouldn't change the game at all, if there were playfield inserts for the control room modes leading to an insert for Secure Control Room and inserts for the T-Rex modes leading to an insert for Museum Mayhem the perception would be that it's not as linear as people sometimes think.

It would be nice to have an on screen display indicating progress on Control Room and T-Rex modes.

#5761 3 years ago
Quoted from JohnnyGee:

So I just got my JP yesterday and played maybe 10 games and I already have dimpling... Is this something I should be worried about? I didn't get a playfield protector because I heard it affects the feel of the game. Thoughts?

Like anything, I think it’s personal preference. I don’t think of dimpling as damage like chipping, so I don’t put a protector on. It’s up to you how you feel about it though. If you don’t want dimpling, then put a protector on. I have a ton of dimpling on my JJP POTC but it doesn’t impact ball travel and I don’t mind it so I don’t put a protector on. My JP2 has WAY less dimpling than my POTC did after the same number of games played.

#5765 3 years ago
Quoted from JohnnyGee:

Hi guys! Im having a problem where my balls keep gets stuck right here. it looks like the post isn't all the way flash and the balls keeps getting caught on it. Anyone else having this problem? or can provide any tips before I take the glass off to get a better look. Thanks
[quoted image]

If the post isn’t flush it can be adjusted from under the playfield. Just turn the screw I’ve circled in this picture to lower the post until it’s flush.

705A5D08-CCFE-4D4B-B127-B3BACA6C538A (resized).jpeg705A5D08-CCFE-4D4B-B127-B3BACA6C538A (resized).jpeg
#5792 3 years ago
Quoted from Gtrefraction:

So I accidentally order 3/8” flipper bands instead of the standard 1/2”. They are noticeably shorter on the flippers but initially I didn’t notice much difference. Is there a reason I should not just use the stock I accidentally ordered?

I have 3/8" on mine and have no issues with them.

2 weeks later
#5878 3 years ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

Something seems to have gone haywire in my program. I just tested it with the glass off. Changed setting #22 to “Yes” and triggered T-Rex MB AND T-Rex Chase by using something to block the entrance opto, so that was as expected.
But then I changed the setting back to “No” so T-Rex modes should only start with a catch and again turned the truck with my hand to activate T-Rex modes. Again used something to block the entrance opto and T-Rex Chase started just from doing that. Any ideas?

When I go into the menu and choose "Diag" (Diagnostics), "SW" (Switches), and then "ACT" (Active Switch Test) it scrolls through the switches that are currently active on the machine. One of the switches that reports as active in the test on mine is #67 for the mouth opto.

Any chance someone could check yours to see if #67 Mouth Opto is one of the switches it reports as active as it scrolls through the active switch test? Other switches it listed as active as it scrolled through them were the trough switches, #45 (motor 2), #31 (newton ball left), #25 (coin door interlock (door was open)), and the three flipper EOS switches. I'm wondering if it's normal for #67 to be showing as active in this test.

1 month later
#6008 3 years ago
Quoted from dimthedaylights:

Question for the masses. Had my premium about a week now and have been loving it but I’m still lost on the pitch 6.5 it shoots sloppy 7.0 it seems to not make the ramps every time. What’s the consensus as I’ve seen both argued and I’ve gone back and forth a bunch
2. When I hit the spinner shot off the left flipper is the ball supposed to travel around and feed to the upper flipper or fall in the pops. Seems the later is more often for me.
I know these things get asked a lot but appreciate the advice. Super happy with this pin and so glad to own it.

1) I'd say just tweak pitch slightly, play for a few days or a week, then if you don't like it adjust it a little bit more & repeat the process until you find a spot where you like it. Are the ramp shots rattling out a lot or just not making it up the ramp? If they're rattling out, then adjusting the flipper power up or down a bit can make a difference. Also check to see that the ball is transitioning smoothly from the ball guide to the flipper and not hopping away from the face of the flipper when it transitions.
2) The shot through the spinner on mine will go around the orbit on a clean shot and fall into the pops on a weaker shot. I don't think falling into the pops is a bad thing since you build the amber award and it releases out to the orbit anyway, so it doesn't cost you the chance at taking a shot from the upper flipper.

#6023 3 years ago
Quoted from Chimmy:

I got a NIB JP prem a few weeks ago and have been having an issue where my raptor pit registers randomly and locks the gate with no ball in it. This causes two balls in the game and as soon as one ball drains it ends my ball. It happens pretty much every game but sometimes right away and sometimes 5 mins into a ball. No consistency in where the ball is when it happens, pops, "c" target, trex mouth. "Gatekeeper, raise the gate" is my least favorite call out now, lol. I dont see the opto stuck on in the menus and i cant seem to replicate it with the glass off. I also unplugged and replugged the opto incase it was a bad connection. Latest code from factory.
Anyone got any ideas on what else to check? Losing my mind not being able to play a good game without being interupted with the issue.

Maybe one of the non-opto switches in the raptor pit is being triggered by vibration and needs to be adjusted? Have you tried taking the glass off and hitting the play field with the palm of your hand to see if a switch registers? Might be worth trying that while in switch test in the menu to see if it happens and so you can see which switch is registering when it shouldn't be. Just an idea though.

I don't know whether or not there's a switch history in the menu that will tell you the order in which the switches registered during a game. If there is then you might be able to check it out to see which switch is registering when it shouldn't. I don't know if there's a switch history in the Stern menu though.

2 weeks later
#6039 3 years ago
Quoted from AndHart120:

Minor issue I am having.....
When the T-Rex head swings to the left it keeps hitting into the electric fence post enough so that the post gets pushed back slightly each time the head hits it. Is there an adjustment in the settings to make the head not go that far to the left or does some other adjustment need to be made?
Thanks!

Mine has done the same thing from day 1 (Sept. 2019) and I haven't had any issue with it damaging anything.

#6042 3 years ago
Quoted from AndHart120:

I don’t think it will break anything, it just doesn’t look right. If there isn’t anything to do about it I’ll just leave it.

Yep, and if I remember correctly when the game first started shipping there were some posts in this forum about the same issue with people (probably including me) wondering if the contact with the post was going to break something. I don't recall any posts since then where people said something broke on it though so seems like you should be good to go.

#6058 3 years ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

Every time he starts going back and forth, we are yelling "THROW IT...THROW IT!"

Sounds like me when I'm watching a football game

1 month later
#6259 3 years ago
Quoted from Freakyguy666:

3 questions on the T-Rex...
If the ramp opto is not triggered, why would the opto in the trex mouth not trigger the ball capture? Or is there no opto in the mouth?
Is the new bracket for the ramp opto solving the opto issue 100% or are many still having to adjust the opto even with the new bracket?
How does 1.03 Code improve the trex ball capture? I read this on another board but not sure the code update described this improvement.

The ramp entrance opto turns the magnet on to catch the ball. The mouth opto just confirms that there is a ball caught in the mouth. So if the ramp entrance isn't triggered the magnet doesn't turn on to make the catch.

#6268 3 years ago
Quoted from Freakyguy666:

How would one test the opto on the ramp? I have the new bracket but trex still not catching half the time.

There's a left ramp test in the software menu. Here's a post that describes how it works:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/93#post-5484113

#6301 3 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

My game is just now setup where I can play, and I have a ton to read on how to actually play this game. Thus far, I've been able to test everything successfully except the T-Rex eating a ball. I don't know if there is a test for this or even how to accomplish it during game play. I know I can search around, but was wondering if someone could give me a quick response on how I can test either through the service modes or manually get to it by hand during a game?

I'd say just test it through game play, and give it a lot of play to get a feel for it and see how it's going before you adjust anything. That way you're only adjusting it if it's really necessary.

The catches come into play mainly for starting the T-REX modes. Hit the truck to complete the T-REX letters and it'll start a T-Rex mode, and the T-Rex modes start with the mouth coming down to catch the ball. First one is T-Rex multiball. Actual game play will give you the best idea on how well it's catching the ball.

#6366 3 years ago
Quoted from WonderMellon:

Just joined the Prem club this week. Ordered from Operation Pinball as they had some in stock and shipped next day. Nov 2 build date and it looks awesome and a fun pin. My first premium and first NIB. There are a few things I would like to know from some of you who have dialed your game in.
Out of the box, the T-Rex would only lower to the clear plastic at the top of the ramp. It wasn't even close to catching the ball when lowered. I followed the instructions in this post and adjusted the head mechanism all the way up to give the T-Rex mouth down as far as possible. When I put the playfield back in the machine, the head then rises about 1/4 of an inch. It looks like it is hitting the back of the cab. The good news is that the mouth now catches about 90% of the shots. If I lift the playfield, the mouth drops and rests on the ramp like it should. Anyone else notice this? Is there anything I can do about it? The mechanism is up as far as it can go.
I also notice that the Helipad ramp shot is rejecting quite a few shots when using the plunger and from the auto plunge. Is there some adjustment to the scoop or something to make this better
The outer orbit shot from the upper flipper is mega fast. I don't have the reflex speed yet to catch it coming back around. It flies back trough the right side and then SDTM. I am reading that either the upper flipper bat or the post should be adjusted, but I am not sure which.
Would love some help getting the game setup perfectly.

I think Manny65 has it all covered in his post above. Just wanted to add one minor suggestion that could also help on the upper flipper. On mine I occasionally need to adjust the ball guide so the ball will transition off it and roll smoothly down the face of the upper flipper to hit the post. Even when the flipper is aligned properly, if the end of that ball guide is a hair too close in to the flipper rubber, then when the ball transitions from the guide to the flipper it will hop slightly away from the face of the flipper. This will make hitting the tower shot more difficult and can also cause the ball to not deflect off the post when it comes out of the orbit and instead go SDTM. All you have to do to adjust the guide is remove the plastic above it, loosen the screw holding the guide, use pliers to push hard on the end of the guide a few times to get it bending out a bit more, then while pushing a final time with the pliers re-tighten the screw. Test it by rolling a ball down the right ramp wire and see if it hops away from the flipper or if it rolls down smoothly and deflects off the post.

3 months later
#6650 3 years ago
Quoted from nTronz:

I was wondering if anyone could compare their TREX stepper sound to my video below. I think there is an issue with the mech when it is homing. There is some moderate shaking. I just want to verify this sounds wrong and see if anyone has had a similar issue at any point.

Video didn't work when I clicked it.

2 weeks later
#6699 3 years ago
Quoted from arsmith7:

Do you happen to have a pic of what this looks like? I just can't envision it...

From the other JP2 forum:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park/page/78#post-5456180

#6712 3 years ago
Quoted from Sulaco:

-Is anyone else experiencing the T-rex not catching the ball when his mouth is on the ramp (or maybe I am not hitting it perfectly)? Or the opposite where you hit his mouth, but the event triggers anyway without him catching it.
-Amber slings? I hear the call-out for them, but what are they and how did I activate them?

There’s a setting in the menu to allow the mode to start without the ball being caught if the ball just crosses the opto at the ramp entrance. If that setting isn’t enabled and it’s still happening then you might have an issue with the opto in the mouth of the T-Rex

Amber slings are one of the frenzy modes from Super Supply drops. Here’s a link to a good website for rules of the game:

http://tiltforums.com/t/stern-jurassic-park-rulesheet/5644

4 weeks later
#6805 2 years ago
Quoted from kcirrick:

I ordered my Premium December 29 with an estimated delivery in March later narrowed down to the fourth week of March which came and went with no delivery. I was told Stern was waiting on parts, but a few will soon ship. I took delivery April 13.
I'm enjoying the game and only found one minor issue and another possible issue. The Start button didn't work. It didn't even light up. I played for hours using the action button to start games before I figured out that the inside of the start button, the actual button part, was dangling inside the machine. I connected it back together and that fixed that.
My potential issue is T-Rex. He functions perfectly and while moving vertically he has the typical small motor sound, but he seems awfully noisy when moving horizontally. Like he's straining with gears grinding. I sent a video to Stern support to get their opinion. I hope it's not normal because it's loud and sounds like it's on a path to failure - after warranty of course. I have the games volume loud to cover up the noise. I'm moving it using a flipper button while in diagnostics.

My only quibble is that white flasher lamp on the left which is blinding. It's worse than my F-14 Tomcat. There's an option in the adjust menu to reduce the brightness, but it's not enough. I finally took that clear dome off and temporarily popped a red insert I had lying around in it's place. I'll either be replacing the dome or the led board with blue depending what I can find.
The game is fun and makes my old "Fast and Furious" F-14 Tomcat seem geriatric, but that's another topic.
I installed the over priced Jurassic Park topper with a slight modification. Here is a pic. Don't be cruel.[quoted image]

I can't say for sure about the T-Rex noise because I've never had it out like that to listen to it while it moved, but the noise in your video seems very similar to the noise mine makes when it moves horizontally during game play... but much quieter with the playfield in and glass on So it's just my thought but the noise in your video didn't strike me as odd.

I replaced the white flasher dome with a yellow dome and I've really liked it. The white flasher right there was too bright for my liking. It was a really easy swap. Here's the one I got. Just had to trim one of the screw tabs off but it was easy to do.

https://www.pinballlife.com/plastic-mini-light-domes-with-screw-tabs.html

1 week later
#6858 2 years ago
Quoted from Snaggletoes:

All at once, no pause in between. I did put brand new ninja brand balls in the machine instead of the ones that came with it.

Have you tested the shooter lane switch? If that switch isn't registering properly and the first ball doesn't activate it then the machine will think a ball isn't in the lane and send another ball. Just an idea for something else to check as a possibility. Odd that it's only happening at the start of ball two though.

1 week later
#6914 2 years ago
Quoted from Averhoeven:

Couple tech support questions.
A) My control room rod sinks into the playfield enough that sometimes balls get stuck on top of it. When the game goes to "find the balls" and pops that rod it launches the ball into the glass. Yikes! It's it likely something is loose

For A you probably just need to adjust the height of the post so it’s flush with the playfield when it’s down. It’s easy to do. Here’s a link to a post about doing it:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/116#post-5763899

#6917 2 years ago
Quoted from Apex:

I would actually remove the raptor gate cliffy. That is a case where I don't think you need it if you have the gate height adjusted properly.
In my opinion (take it for what it is) when adjusted properly, the clearance between the play field edge and the gate is so small that the ball can't really land on the wood edge and chew it up like a scoop or drop target.

I'd second that thought. I have over 12,800 balls played on mine and the playfield cutout for the raptor cage has no issues. Of course, like Apex said it's just my opinion and it's best to do what you're comfortable with.

2 weeks later
#7008 2 years ago
Quoted from EchoVictor:

Hey all,
just joined with a NIB Premium. I am having a blast learning the ruleset and practicing my shots, but I've noticed my game has 2 issues that I can't seem to find mention of in this nor in the regular JP thread;
1 - General) My RH helix ramp does not always return the ball smoothly to the upper flipper. About 25% of the time on a medium to hard shot, the ball rattles side-to-side between the lane guides after dropping from the wireform. The rebound often puts the ball out of reach of the 3rd flipper, so I can't make the loop or tower shots consistently.
2 - LE/Prem specific) My T-Rex head sounds terrible when moving from side-to-side, but fine going up and down. Position seems to be just fine, but it sounds terrible. Is the T-Rex head cable driven? If so, I'd say it sounds like the cable braids are riding/rubbing against something else.
Anyone else seen these issues?
Thanks,
EV

1) Yep it's been an issue for other people also. Should be an easy adjustment. Here's a link to one post about it:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/77#post-5390190

2) That's the normal sound.

Also FYI, note there are two club threads for Jurassic Park. This one for premium/LE and the other for pro (still don't understand why people wanted separate threads but they did). If you can't find something in one thread it can be helpful to check the other one also.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park#post-5128180

#7010 2 years ago
Quoted from DeathHimself:

Does anyone recall the build date when Stern stop running the JP’s to address playfield pooling issues, then started up again? I know it was early on but trying to ascertain about when this was.
Thanks

Very early on. It popped up in the first run of pros before LEs were shipped. The LEs shipped with the thinner clear coat and art removed from around the posts. I think LEs shipped around Sept/Oct 2019.

#7014 2 years ago
Quoted from Kneissl:

My trex jaw catches on the wireform to the right sometimes and sort of hang for a few seconds.. no issue with alignment on the ramp. Anything to worry about? Should i be adjusting something? It seems like it would be a little tough on the motors.

Mine does the same sometimes and I have the same thought about it not being good for the motors. Seems like it should clear that wire but sometimes it's just a bit low and hangs against it. Would have been nice if they'd programmed it to raise just a bit higher to make sure it always clears it. I usually let T-Rex start doing its thing but then double flip to cancel it once it starts going toward that ramp. But that's just me probably being overly cautious.

#7018 2 years ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Stern introduced more T-REX settings in the adjustments in 1.01 - so maybe adjusting the T-REX STEPPER RIGHT POS BIAS or T-REX STEP DROP JAW OPEN TICKS would help?? Sorry I haven't played with the settings, so not sure if this will address your issue.
T-Rex Adjustment (introduced in v1.01)
-- General --
"T-REX MAGNET DISABLED" - disables the T-Rex mouth magnet, will result in the game using Pro rules for the T-Rex shots
"T-REX JAW DISABLED" - disables the T-Rex jaw coil, will result in the game using Pro rules for the T-Rex shots
"T-REX STEPPER DISABLED" - disables the T-Rex Horizontal Motor, will result in the game using Pro rules for T-Rex shots
"T-REX VERTICAL MOTOR DISABLED" - disables the T-Rex Vertical Motor, will result in the game using Pro rules for T-Rex shots
"T-REX JAW HOLD POWER" - hold power of the Jaw coil each time T-Rex opens it's mouth
"T-REX THROW BALL ENABLED" - when set to 'YES' T-Rex will attempt to throw the ball left / right when the game logic allows for it. When set to 'NO' the T-Rex will only drop the ball into the Left Ramp wireform.
"T-REX STEPPER LEFT POS BIAS" - this number is an offset number of steps from where the software considers the left position of the T-Rex head (this should be directly above the Left Loop)
"T-REX STEPPER MIDDLE POS BIAS" - this number is an offset number of steps from where the software considers the middle position of the T-Rex head (this should be directly above the Left Ramp)
"T-REX STEPPER RIGHT POS BIAS" - this number is an offset number of steps from where the software considers the right position of the T-Rex head (this should be directly above the Left Ramp wireform)
-- Drop or Throw Sequences --
"T-REX STEP KEEP JAW OPEN TICKS" - milliseconds the jaw is kept open after the Left Ramp opto is broken
-- Left or Right Drop Sequence --
"T-REX STEP DROP JAW OPEN TICKS" - milliseconds the jaw is kept open when dropping Right onto the Left Ramp wireform or Left onto the Left Loop plastic
-- Left or Right Throw Sequence --
Throw Sequence Pattern - Start Motor Movement ---[1]---> Mouth Magnet Off ---[2]---> Jaw Open ---[3]---> Jaw Close
*Note* - each of the numbered arrows above indicate a number of milliseconds that separate each event in the throw sequence and can be adjusted by the following adjustments:
"T-REX STEP THROW LEFT TICKS" - milliseconds between Start Motor Movement and Mouth Magnet Off for Left throws - [1] in the sequence above
"T-REX STEP THROW RIGHT TICKS" - milliseconds between Start Motor Movement and Mouth Magnet Off for Right throws - [1] in the sequence above
"T-REX STEP THROW MAG OFF TICKS" - milliseconds between Mouth Magnet Off and Jaw Open for both Left and Right throws - [2] in the sequence above
"T-REX STEP THROW JAW OPEN TICKS" - milliseconds between Jaw Open and Jaw Close for both Left and Right throws - [3] in the sequence above
-- Diagnostics --
"T-REX STEPPER DIAG THRASH" - changes the amount of thrashes (motor revolutions) that happen when 'enter' is pressed in the 'T-Rex Horizontal Motor Test' diagnostic screen, changing from a negative to positive number will change the motor thrash direction
"T-REX STEPPER DIAG VPOS UP" - when set to 'YES' the 'T-Rex Horizontal Motor Test' diagnostic screen will position the T-Rex in the Up position, when set to 'NO' the T-Rex will be positioned in the Mid position

Yeah it's odd because it doesn't happen all the time and my T-Rex is also always good at dropping the ball on the wire so I think its right/left positioning is set up okay. It's just that sometimes when it's doing its thrashing back and forth it's a slight bit too low and bumps into the wire and starts grinding the motor. But not every time. I don't think any of the adjustments raises the vertical positioning of its thrashing movement, but I'll check it out again. Thanks!

2 weeks later
#7170 2 years ago
Quoted from JMCFAN:

Does anyone have directions for the Stern amber shooting rod? The ones that came with it are lame with no wiring directions etc... any issues I should know of etc...?

Pretty straightforward install. Just unscrew all 5 screws on the plate inside the cabinet. Remove both the stock shooter rod and that inside plate. Swap in the both entire new Stern shooter mech (the full assembly with rod and outside plate) and the new inside plate that came with it (run the wires from the shooter rod through the slots in the new plate). Replace the screws to hold it all together and plug into CN15. Here's a post that has a picture of what it should look like from the inside when you're done. In this one both wires were run through the left slot. I put one wire through each side. Either way works just fine.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/114#post-5747821

#7172 2 years ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

One small caveat: THE VERY FIRST THING TO DO is I mark the OUTSIDE of the cabinet with blue painter's tape BEFORE you remove the old plate. Put tape along all four edges of the original plate. In that way you can align the new plate in the EXACT same place, making sure the shooter is aligned with the playfield lane in exactly the same place as the factory one.

And if it ends up needing a bit of an alignment adjustment (mine didn't but if it does) then you can skip putting in the two hex head wood screws and just use the other three screws. That will give you a bit of play in the alignment while still holding it all together plenty tight.

Your turn again...

#7175 2 years ago
Quoted from tomaszb1:

Are the upposts suppose to have a pin in them? Picture doesn’t show the hole (go me great photographer) but mine keeps coming out of the control room lock.
[quoted image]

I just checked mine. I couldn't see how it's held in but definitely seems like it's held in somehow. I manually lifted the plunger for the coil to make the post rise, and then when I pulled up lightly on the post from above the playfield it wouldn't budge at all. I couldn't see how it's attached though because it seems to be inside a plastic tube that goes from the end of the coil to the bottom of the playfield. I looked in the manual and Pg 47 shows a diagram of the assembly but the diagram doesn't have the post in it. It only shows the coil so I can't tell from that how/if it's attached either.

#7188 2 years ago
Quoted from Chopper36:

I have had my game for a while now and this just started happening. During Trex modes other than feed when the ball hits the mouth the mode starts immediately. Before the ball needed to be in the mouth on the magnet to start the mode. So I don’t know if this is the way it is supposed to work or if this is a problem.

Check the opto light on the bottom of the mouth on the tongue. If the light is out then the mouth opto might be out, which would mean the game thinks that switch is closed (meaning a ball is in the mouth) when it shouldn't be. As a result, the mode will start when the ramp entrance is crossed because it also thinks the mouth opto has been tripped for a ball catch. Seems to be a fairly common issue to have that opto go out.

#7201 2 years ago
Quoted from Mjesposi:

Hey everyone. Two more questions as I was just playing a couple games with my son and the permanent Newton ball piece came flying off. I opened everything up and force fit then all on but it came off again two times later. When putting the ball back I noticed two lines and like a raised area in front of where the ball sits (pics attached). Is the ball / stem connection broke at this point and should I reach out to stern? As for the play field, anyone know what that is?
Last question is on the ball launch. I have the green spring and have no issue getting it up and over to the helicopter launch LAne when pulling it but when hitting launch button it makes it up and over like 3 out of 10 times. Is that a setting or spring issue?
Machine was purchased brand new and just delivered Wednesday and has about 145 plays on it Thanks again for everyone’s help!!!!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Not sure about the captive ball issue. I recall posts in the forums about it breaking off before but I don't recall if there's a way to fix other than by getting a replacement captive ball.

For the auto launch here's how I'd work through checking it out. First check that when the ball is at rest in the shooter lane it's resting equally on both forks of the launcher. If it's not, then slightly bend the forks so the ball is resting on both of them.

Then take slow motion video to see if the ball is veering one direction or the other at any point up the launch ramp.

If the video shows the ball is going straight the whole way through the shooter lane, then try either decreasing or increasing the power setting of the auto launcher to see if it helps (I'd try decreasing a bit first).

If the video shows the ball is not initially pushed straight up the lane, then try slightly bending a launcher fork to counter the direction the ball is going so it starts out going straight up the lane.

If video shows the ball starts out straight but then veers once it hits the metal ramp in the shooter lane, then you might need to adjust the metal shooter lane ramp. People have done that by putting a washer under a screw in the front forks where the metal shooter lane ramp begins. Searching "washer fix" in this thread or the other JP2 thread will probably give you some results of posts with pictures showing it.

1 week later
#7267 2 years ago
Quoted from Sulaco:

Hi JP Fam!
I was curious if any of you experienced either of the the two issues:
-T-Rex opto sensors not recognizing a skill shot / MAP letter / Rescue intermittently. This has happened a few times during the past several games where sometimes it happens and sometimes it doesn't. I ran switch tests on both opto sensors and both were recognized every time (ran the ball forwards and backwards). Same for the right loop opto sensor; intermittent registering, but switch tests are positive. I haven't been able to successfully NOT make them register. Seems to be random.
-Is it possible to perform a combo so quickly that the second combo is not registered?
Any insight is appreciated.
Thanks!

Yes, if the opto beam is hitting low on the playfield then the bottom (narrow) point of the ball on the playfield can cross it so fast that the beam isn't broken. Check these posts out for some info and suggestion on a fix. There have also been a fair number of recent posts about the same issue with the orbit opto on the new batch of JP2 deliveries.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park/page/56#post-5312034

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/62#post-5321884

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/65#post-5328473

1 week later
#7425 2 years ago
Quoted from PinheadJeff:

Please forgive my ignorance...I just received my first pin and I'm almost there...I've noticed 3 plugs that are not connected. 2 are on the coin door and the other is on the side panel near the tilt plumb bob. Are these supposed to be loose and not connected?
I sure would appreciate some help.
Thanks in advance!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Looks to be correct. Mine has the same.

963A2756-FA25-4224-954C-14A410B8FED8 (resized).jpeg963A2756-FA25-4224-954C-14A410B8FED8 (resized).jpegF05B80D2-6EC6-49E8-9A80-B4A857A21C52 (resized).jpegF05B80D2-6EC6-49E8-9A80-B4A857A21C52 (resized).jpeg
#7492 2 years ago
Quoted from Rarehero:

If any of you have time, could you take a pic of your T-Rex assembly and tell me what goes in the hole here? Looks like a screw or something is missing…I think this is what’s causing my T-Rex to not go all the way right to the ramp.
[quoted image]

Top view and side view pics of that spot. Hope they help.

4F4B75B8-9D36-4546-BB11-2241AA486C02 (resized).jpeg4F4B75B8-9D36-4546-BB11-2241AA486C02 (resized).jpeg52DBA16D-AB07-42F0-B23A-BE2450F0108C (resized).jpeg52DBA16D-AB07-42F0-B23A-BE2450F0108C (resized).jpeg
2 weeks later
#7664 2 years ago
Quoted from chickenscratch:

Thanks, began thinking that was the case, but isn’t that just another way of doing the tape fix? Right now with the sensors out, I could just cover half of the transmitting opto with tape, just don’t know which one it is lol

Most likely you can cover the bottom half of either opening and it will work. If in doubt, you can use the camera on your phone to see which one is the transmitter. The light coming from it isn’t visible to the eye but it will show up as a glow on the lens of the opto when looking on your phone screen using the camera.

The standard black electrical tape I use on the left orbit and left ramp entrance on mine has been in place for over 12,000 plays and doesn’t show signs of going anywhere any time soon.

1 week later
#7791 2 years ago
Quoted from Drac:

I'm having great difficulties shooting the cross-playfield ramp with the upper flipper. I had the game for 2 weeks and maybe 200 games and I reckon I've only made the ramp shot 10 times in all of those games.
I've attached a photo of my flipper alignment from factory. Should this be adjusted or is it just me being horrible at pinball?[quoted image]

As Manny65 said check the screw head on the ramp entrance first to see if that's making contact with the ball. If it's not, then look to see if the ball is transitioning smoothly from the ball guide to the face of the flipper or if the ball is hopping away from the face of the flipper a bit. If it's hopping, then adjust the end of the ball guide out slightly so the ball transitions smoothly to the flipper. And if the transition to the flipper isn't the issue then try adjusting flipper power up or down to see if that helps.

#7800 2 years ago
Quoted from NoSkills:

Thanks for the reply. It's definitely from post #4, that post now doesn't connect to the plastic. Just to clarify you think the screw ive circled in purple goes underneath? I thought that was the underneath part for the yellow circled bit. Also weirdly just the washer came off, there's no loose screws floating around, confused.
[quoted image]

Yep it’s setup as JMCFAN describes on the bottom with a screw and washer going into the post. Here’s a pic of the top side setup. I tried to get a picture underneath too but it didn’t turn out very well. I’m posting it anyway though in case it helps.

886A538C-2618-421D-A2AA-FB4BD5A78E22 (resized).jpeg886A538C-2618-421D-A2AA-FB4BD5A78E22 (resized).jpeg
#7803 2 years ago
Quoted from NoSkills:

great, thank you! Need to find the screw and washer to make sure they don't damaged anything else, even if they are not reusable. It has been an interesting first 2 weeks of ownership, having minor issues like this and working them out

Lol, yeah screws and washers have a way of magically disappearing and reappearing sometimes. If you lift the playfield up and down and they don't show up there's a decent chance they've fallen into the bottom of the cabinet. If it's a new machine it's also possible they missed putting that bottom screw and washer on in assembly. Glad you're getting things worked out! It's a great game.

#7805 2 years ago
Quoted from NoSkills:

After a little hide and seek I found both the screw and other washer. Don't think I can reattach the bottom ones without taking the whole raptor pen out, which I think I will need to disconnect some wires to lift it out far enough. Time to take pictures and label things I think!

Instead of trying to screw it in the conventional way with a screwdriver from the bottom, is there a way to hold the screw head with your finger enough so you can turn the post onto it from the top just snug enough so it holds? It doesn't have to go on super tight, just enough so the screw won't fall out. The plastic won't go anywhere if it's a bit loose.

If you can hold the screw in through the bottom of the hole with either your finger or an offset screwdriver and turn the post onto the screw from the top side then you might not have to take it all apart.

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2944-Offset-Screwdriver-3-Piece/dp/B000NYQU/ref=asc_df_B000NYQU/

2 weeks later
#7892 2 years ago
Quoted from Manny65:

The things I'd suggest are:
- ensure the PF is level side-to-side
- start with 7 degrees pitch but reduce it in small increments to see if it helps
- ensure the control room up post is perfectly flush with the PF
- ensure the feed to the upper flipper is smooth (no hop when it reaches the flipper)
Yes JP can be brutal, but when you're in the zone it's a truly awesome game

Edit: Oh and note Mike's comments above about the correct flipper alignment

Yep, that's spot on Manny65 , especially on the flipper hop. My experience is that's a big factor on my machine for making the tower shot. Whenever that shot has lost its smoothness on mine I've checked for flipper hop, found it, adjusted it, and it's gone right back to being smooth. That's assuming, of course, the shot has been dialed in initially and nothing else has changed.

For dialing in initially, changing flipper power setting can also help.

1 week later
#7911 2 years ago
Quoted from demandecan55:

Just got my JP Premium yesterday after saving for a long time. I have 2 issues with mine so far:
1) Helicopter blades don’t spin. When the ball hits they move a tiny amount, then align themselves so the are out of the rail and can’t be hit. I adjusted the screw so the blades would spin freely, but sadly the screw is self tightening and goes back to being tight and hard to spin.
2) T-Rex doesn’t grab the ball. I read about it being a magnet, but it’s a bummer it’s not working. It has worked one out of ~8 times, ans that was the 1st or 2nd time I got it there. I do get the multiball, and he chews, but the ball just rolls right down.
I think I have other adjustment issues too, but those are the big ones.
Oh and my actually pinballs that came with it are terrible, and had sticky gunk/tape all over them. One or two looked used for my NIB game. However I am determined to get it fixed and have fun, and what does work, seems great. Would appreciate some advice.
[quoted image][quoted image]

1) I'm not sure what you're saying is causing the helicopter issue. It seems like you're saying the blades end up in an alignment where the ball rolling down the wire form doesn't hit them so they don't spin. It also seems like you're saying the blades aren't spinning freely. Is it both of those issues?

If you go to the top of this page and on a mobile device click "find in topic" or on a computer browser above the blue "Find" button type in helicopter there have been a lot of posts in this thread about different issues with the helicopter. Some of those ideas might be worth checking out.

Also there are 2 Jurassic Park forums. This forum and another one (it was a bad idea to start 2 forums for this machine). If you can't find something in this thread then the other one has a lot of information in it also, even for the Premium/LE models. Searching "helicopter" in there still brings up results with people discussing blade spinning issues. Here's a link to the forum:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park#post-5128180

2) For the T-Rex, the way the mech is supposed to work is that the ball crossing the opto sensor at the entrance to the T-Rex ramp turns on the magnet for the catch. There's also an opto in the mouth (one side of the opto is on the tongue and the other is on the roof of the mouth) and when that opto gets blocked by the ball being held by the magnet then the game knows the ball was caught.

I think it's best to start by walking through it to try to determine what the issue(s) with it are. It could be an issue with the physical alignment of the mouth too high off the ramp or it could be an issue with the mech (or both). I'd start by taking the glass off, start a game, and spin the truck by hand to start a T-Rex mode. Use your finger to trigger the opto and feed the ball to the magnet by hand. If the magnet takes the ball then that will mean the mech is working correctly and there's some other issue causing it to not catch the ball such as maybe 1) alignment of the mouth on the ramp (which can be adjusted by doing a physical height adjustment of the mech) or 2) the ball isn't fully blocking the beam of the opto when it crosses the ramp entrance so the magnet isn't turning on (either because it's hopping over the opto or because the opto hole needs the "tape fix"). This will get you going on the path to diagnosing what the issue is.

Also, there's a setting in the menu that allows a T-Rex mode to start without the ball being caught. Go into the menu system and select "Adj" and then "Game" and scroll to Feature Adjustment #23 T-Rex Event Starts on Ramp Enter. Is this currently set to Yes or No on your machine? If it's No and the T-Rex event is still starting even when the ball isn't caught, then there could be an issue with the opto in the mouth. You'd want to check to see if the light on the opto on the T-Rex's tongue is on or off. But this would still be a secondary/unrelated issue to the problem of the T-Rex not catching the ball for you.

This all may seem like a lot, but if you start by learning the way a mech is supposed to work step-by-step then you can walk through those steps to see if it's working the right way and isolate what the issue(s) are that need to be fixed. There's a lot of really great people that offer advice in this forum so I'm sure you'll get up and running.

#7918 2 years ago
Quoted from WindRaidor:

I’ve gone through the advice on the key posts for making t-Rex adjustments. I’m still having my t-Rex jaw collide with the metal ramp and hence not release the ball until a ball search is triggered. I’ve adjusted the vertical height of the motor assembly so trex is as high as possible as well. It seemed to work for a few plays; but, now is right back to previous behavior. The adjustment screws are certainly tight. And I do feel a little bounciness up and down to the whole assembly. Made me curious if that is normal or if there are other spots to tighten things up? I’m trying to be extra cautious on where I tighten anything at this point as to not break anything by mistake.
Any thoughts?

Are you referring to the start of a T-Rex mode where it can hit the metal ball return from the T-Rex ramp and get hung up on it? If so, mine has also always had that happen occasionally. I don't know that there's ever been a solution posted for it. It seems to be in the coding that the T-Rex goes to a height that allows it to collide with that wire form and get hung up on it. For a long time now I've always just double flipped to cut the T-Rex show short in order to avoid it happening. When it does happen and starts grinding the motor I lunge to power the game down.

1 week later
#7970 2 years ago
Quoted from max_pinball:

Hi. Got my Jurassic Park premium and was wondering if the following spots will get worse. Will a washer prevent it from chipping ? Thanks from germany . Max
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Here’s a pic of my entrance to the tower shot (note the white under the end of my guide is dried wax that I missed last time I waxed).

If I remember correctly, for that spot I just loosened the nut under the playfield a bit so I could lift that area of ball guide slightly off the surface of the playfield. Doing that and/or putting a washer there to lift the edge of the guide off of the playfield reduces the chance of damage.
2F107B63-5010-4647-B46C-453140354AAD (resized).jpeg2F107B63-5010-4647-B46C-453140354AAD (resized).jpeg

#7975 2 years ago
Quoted from max_pinball:

Thanks . I thought of loosening the nut and put a washer there.
Did nothing on my Maiden pro and it chipped behind the orbit lane guide under the right upper flipper. I want to prevent the JP so it won‘t happen again .
[quoted image]

Yep, for the entrance to the left orbit I lifted it and put a washer there. For this spot I only lifted it. You might want to check that left orbit entrance also.

#7976 2 years ago
Quoted from max_pinball:

I know. But what should I do now . Just knowing that I have a bad number doesn‘t really help .

I think that person might be referring to the first batch of JP that went out in Sept. 2019 and had pooling issues before Stern started removing artwork from around the posts. Since that happened I don't think there have been issues from pooling on the machines.

There have been issues with the edges of ball guides being tightened onto the playfields though, and in those spots lifting the guide off the surface is your best chance at preventing that damage from happening (and also adding a washer also isn't a bad idea). But this issue is caused by the edge of the ball guide digging into the clear coat and it's a different issue than the pooling issue on first run of JPs and on the Jersey Jack machines which mostly happened around the base of posts.

2 weeks later
#8050 2 years ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

I always go for VC with perfect paddocks. I only started KOTI for the first time about a month ago. I always avoid the TREX and Spino paddocks.

I used to play the same way up until a few weeks ago. Then other than starting the first paddock to the left, I started focusing on going for T-Rex modes. It's been fun and I've found that I end up completing a lot of paddocks and getting to VC on a good game anyway because the shots in the T-Rex modes end up doing a lot of paddock work also.

I also started going more for T-Rex and Spino paddocks after having always avoided them. I try to bring a MB to one or both of them as well as a tranquilizer. It's been a lot of fun. I think I had only played KOTI once or twice in two years and now I've played it a few times in the past couple weeks. I can't see myself ever completing KOTI though. Pretty cool mode rules but also seems really tough to do.

2 weeks later
#8094 2 years ago
Quoted from PinPeet:

My Jeep mech is not turning freely anymore! I think I lost an iyem (with the metal balls/ rollers in)
I forgot the name but I think it fell out when I tried to fix the jeep angle.
Anyone has a drawing and a partnumber of the jeep mech?
Thank you!

It's in the game manual:

https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/JurassicPark_LE_Pre_web.pdf

#8104 2 years ago
Quoted from Goyomex:

Hey Folks. Searched the forum and couldn't find the answer to this problem. My raptor pen gate is raising and lowering just fine. However, on ball capture in the pen the metal bar is stopping the ball but the gate isn't raising to hold the it. The ball is released and play resumes - I still get the MB by hitting the pen a number of times. Just wondering why my gate isn't raising. Also, once game ends and i start a new game, the gate goes back up.
SMH. Thanks in advance for any guidance.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but it sounds like your issue is the following:
1) ball lock in the raptor pen is triggered and the post to hold the ball in the pen comes up to trap the ball
2) when the post comes up and traps the ball, the gate is also supposed to come up so that when the post releases the ball the ball rolls forward and is blocked by the gate
3) on yours the post is coming up to hold the ball, but the gate isn't coming up so when the post drops down the ball just rolls back into play

Is that what's happening? If so, I just found these posts where someone seemed to have a similar issue.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/88#post-5441649
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/88#post-5443747

And here's a post where it mentions it got corrected:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/88#post-5446747

Maybe @jordannar can comment on what was done to fix it.

3 weeks later
#8205 2 years ago
Quoted from Rhombus:

I am confused about something regarding the helipad that maybe someone can help me with... Let me see if I can make this clear enough that someone can understand.
Problem: The helipad shot is not registering when hit after I set the trap.
Additional Information:
- The helipad shot microswitch and copter 'seem' to be working. Spinning the copter results in the copter noise.
- Pressing the microswitch makes a noise and will perform a rescue or any other shot to that lane, just not the the shot to capture after the trap has been set.
Question: Am I missing a sensor here? Isn't the microswitch used to perform the final dino capture? If so I guess I will do a full software reinstall as I cant imagine what mechanical or electrical issue it would be given the above behavior. Thanks for any insight.

Which paddock are you looking at? On the first paddock you don't have to hit the helipad to send the helicopter, all you have to do is hit a set trap target and then you're ready to catch the dinosaur. I think there are also some other times during the game the helicopter doesn't need to be sent. Any time the dinosaur insert is flashing yellow/gold the dinosaur is ready to be caught.

Also, if in doubt try taking the glass off and rolling by hand to activate switches to see if they’re registering correctly.

3 weeks later
#8268 2 years ago
Quoted from bdaddy:

I'm having some issues with the "action" button. I don't believe it's working. e.g. when control room mode starts you use the flippers to choose and then the action button should select it, right? It doesn't. I also spammed that button during a paddock thinking it would trigger tranquilizer but nothing happened.
I look inside and I saw a few odd things
1) in the attached pic you can see two connectors that don't connect to anything. Is that normal? I can't see anything offhand that would fit either of these.
2) when pushing the plastic doohickey(the technical term) where the action button resides, I notice it doesn't make contact with that little raised contact/button on the board in the picture. Should it and is that why it's not working? If so I don't really know how to fix, because they are nowhere close to aligned and doesn't look like it has adjustments to move it over or anything.
Thoughts?[quoted image][quoted image]

1) It's normal for those two connectors to be unused
2) It should not make contact with the board. In your first picture, you'll see that the switch for the action button is very similar to the switch for the flipper button. It's just resting horizontally instead of vertically. When the button pushes the top metal arm/leaf, that leaf should then get pressed down enough to make contact with the second (shorter) metal leaf directly beneath it. That will close the circuit and register the switch.

I'd suggest taking the lockdown bar off, going into switch test mode, and seeing if using your hand to press the metal leaf causes the switch to register. If it does register, then the leaf switch just needs to be adjusted in order for the button push to do the same thing as your finger. Most likely the gap between the top leaf and the bottom leaf would need to be reduced by bending the bottom leaf up a bit so the button push will close the circuit.

2 weeks later
#8345 2 years ago
Quoted from ZoraShinoda:

Is there a setting for only starting TREX Multi Ball if TREX eats the ball. I see a setting for T-REX Event start on opto enter which is set to no, but i don't see a similar setting for TREX MB.

T-Rex MB is one of the four T-Rex events. So the setting for T-Rex event start applies to it. If it's set to "No", then T-Rex MB should only start on a catch. If it's set to "No" and a T-Rex event is starting when the ramp opto is triggered without a catch made, then there may be an issue with the opto in the mouth of the T-Rex.

What would be happening in that situation is the ramp opto is triggered and that activates the mouth magnet. The game then looks to see if the opto in the mouth is blocked by a ball resting in the mouth. If that mouth opto isn't working then the game will always think a ball is in the mouth and the mode will start.

#8348 2 years ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

That's incorrect. The first event (Trex MB) starts on ramp entry. This is by design to make attaining the MB easier. The setting for capture applies to the other modes.
It's been discussed since the game came out.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/48#post-5292491
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/86#post-5431739

Oops, my bad. Forgot about that.

1 week later
#8373 2 years ago
Quoted from NoSkills:

I've gone through the thread for suggestions again and checked both the mouth opto and ramp opto in switch test. Both work 100% even if lifting the ball slightly from the ramp, plus I have the stern metal thing fix on the left side of the ramp as its a later build. The magnet also seemed to work fine in coil test. T-rex is all aligned. The only other thing I can think of is I recently changed my pitch to 7.3 from 6.7, I feel like I'm still hitting it clean but maybe I'm not. I'll change the pitch back and see if that helps. If anyone has any other suggestions in the meantime I'd be very grateful

I'd suggest taking slow motion video of the ball entering the mouth off of some shots. Then compare what's happening on a catch vs. what's happening on a miss. Set up the camera so you can get a side view to see if the ball is making it all the way into the mouth or if it's maybe bouncing up and hitting the front part of the roof of the mouth.

#8399 2 years ago
Quoted from Johnbeatle:

Bought this game earlier this year. Love it. Over the last couple of months we've noticed that the ball is getting stuck right above this C lock. Shaking the game doesn't get it out then the game launches it and the ball smacks the glass hard. I've just bought the voodoo glass so I'm paranoid it will eventually break the glass. Anyone else have this problem?
[quoted image]

That post above the "C" is WAY too low. The top of the post should be flush with the playfield. It's easy to adjust. Here's a link to a post I made showing where the nut is to adjust the height of it:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/116#post-5763899

2 weeks later
#8450 2 years ago
Quoted from JMCFAN:

Trying to find post(s) on Left orbit opto fix with tape.. I found the one adding washers.....cant locate the tape fix....???

Keyword search “tape”. Here’s a link to a post I made showing where I did it. One pic is of left orbit and the other is T-Rex ramp.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/65#post-5328626

#8453 2 years ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

I just had a similar issue but it was the transmitter half of the opto that was out. I knew even before taking the trex out since the red light in his mouth was no longer lit.
Symptoms were that all trex modes were starting on ramp entry even though the setting for “start trex mode on ramp entry” was set to NO.
No idea why the wire got cut so cleanly but easy enough fix. Took the opportunity to install my lior Trex while I had the mech apart. No issues with installation or gameplay. Looks awesome!
Also put back the lower jaw screws that fell out over the last 2+ years Ikve had the game lol.
[quoted image][quoted image]

I have the same thing on mine. Light in mouth no longer lit and all modes start on ramp entry. I have the replacement opto to put in but I haven't done it yet because my T-Rex is really nicely dialed in for catching the ball and I don't know if it's a big hassle to dial it back in after taking it off for the repair. After you put yours back in was it tough to dial it back in to catch consistently?

#8461 2 years ago
Quoted from JMCFAN:

Not sure how to get tape to that location.....

I was able to do it without removing anything. I just used two flathead screwdrivers and a small sliver of black electrical tape to do it. Put the tape 1/2 stuck to one of the screwdrivers and use that screwdriver with the tape on it to move the tape into position (so 1/2 of the sticky side of the tape will be exposed to the guide rail where you want to stick the tape).

Then use the 2nd screwdriver to press on the exposed side of the tape and stick it to the rail on one side of the opto hole. Hold that screwdriver against the tape on the rail to keep it in place while you twist to unstick the first screwdriver off the tape, then press that remaining part of the tape against the rail on the other side of the opto hole.

Here's a pic I just took as sort of a historical re-enactment of how I did it.

18BD08B5-2827-4680-8D23-319B057D54C0 (resized).jpeg18BD08B5-2827-4680-8D23-319B057D54C0 (resized).jpeg
#8463 2 years ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

Removing the mech was the reason I hadn’t installed the Lior head yet. Game has about 3000 plays. I’ve owned it since Oct 2019. Never any issue with the T-Rex.
However it was so simple essentially 4 screws and 1 C-clip. The electrical connections all have different connector types so no chance of messing it up.
No adjustments were necessary even with the new head.

Good to hear! I'm going to replace the opto. Thanks!

#8465 2 years ago
Quoted from JMCFAN:

I think this is the wrong opto. The one I am having issues with it the trex ramp opto...attached to the plastic ramp behind the backboard...?

Oh, sorry. Your post said your only issue is left orbit so I was thinking it was that opto.

Quoted from JMCFAN:

My only issue is the left orbit.. 1st skill shot..advance paddock etc. 50% miss. I tried the washer fix but think the washers were too thin... went bought some nylon ones at size recommended... will try today. Not sure how to get tape to that location.....

1 week later
#8503 2 years ago
Quoted from Spiderwolf:

I have had a Stern premium Jurassic Park for about a year now. Recently the T Rex about every third or fourth time has been dropping the ball all the way to the left ( it’s right) and the ball gets stuck behind the guard tower. I’d understand if it was going it every time it’s probably an adjustment somewhere but it only does it like I said but generally you can’t get through a full game. I have to pull the glass to get the ball out. Any ideas why it would only do it occasionally?

Do you have a mod on the tower? Only asking because I recall some people with a decorative mod for the tower have had issues with stuck balls there.

Whether or not you have a mod, you can try placing a cabinet dot or two in the area where the ball is getting stuck to prevent it from happening or you can disable random throw from the T-Rex settings so it will only return the ball to the wire form.

Posting a picture of the spot with a stuck ball there could also lead people to have better suggestions.

2 months later
#8609 1 year ago
Quoted from NoSkills:

If I look up the hole from the back of the playfield there's no tab at all. There's a e-clip going round the spindle but I assume that's just keeping the spindle in place. Just cant figure out how this thing works at all!

There's a magnetic sensor board mounted on the underside of the playfield. I think the black post connected to the helicopter that rotates through the bottom of the playfield trips that sensor board. See page 57 of the manual under "5.47 Helicopter Sensor Assembly"

#8611 1 year ago
Quoted from NoSkills:

Thanks for the reply, i did find that in the manual and under the playfield (couple of posts before the one you quoted) I even removed it from the playfield but there’s no obvious adjustment that can be made on it

Yep it’s a different setup than AIQ. Seems like alignment might be the main way to adjust it. Here’s a pic of how mine is aligned in case it helps. I can take other angles too if you need.

E9B39446-EEEC-47A8-8B40-F02D89FA2A79 (resized).jpegE9B39446-EEEC-47A8-8B40-F02D89FA2A79 (resized).jpeg
2 months later
#8668 1 year ago
Quoted from BrewinBombers:

My new build had 0 glass issues, so I'm not sure what the variable is that's causing some folks to have such challenges; that said, it's definitely not every game.
T-Rex has been pretty good so far, but it's very noisy when it moves. Is that normal?
Raptor gate got stuck mid-up/down once, but I managed to reset it.
Typical ball launch inconsistencies.
Where I AM having an issue is with the "C" shot. I get tons of rejects and rattles on what feel like clean shots. Even if It triggers the C, it's not clean. Maybe "Play better" is the answer, but that is definitely the 2nd hardest shot on my game to hit consistently aside from "O".
Imperfect build so far, but 98% of the game seems to be working great.

T Rex noise is normal. C lane is tough and slight changes to pitch and flipper power can help dial it in a bit. But it’s still tough.

3 weeks later
#8731 1 year ago
Quoted from MaxIsDead:

I think every game should have 10 threads
1) bitch and moan thread
2) hype thread
3) fanboy thread
4) Pro thread
5) Premium thread
6) LE thread
7) pro vs premium vs le thread
8) tech issues thread
9) where’s the code thread
10) quality sucks whine thread

Lol we could probably make it a dozen with the
11) This machine compared to other machines thread
12) Mods, art blades, and shooter rods for this machine thread

#8736 1 year ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

As a follow-up, the moderators do not have enough of a reason within the Pinside rules/guidelines to close this thread. Therefore, I encourage everyone, including Premium & LE owners to please make all new posts in the "Jurassic Park (Stern 2019) Owners Club. Welcome! To Jurassic park....." topic located here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park

Lol, what if people just start going off topic about other stuff in order to give them a reason

#8737 1 year ago

Lol I'll start: How 'bout that Deeproot pinball? Pretty crazy, right???

#8743 1 year ago
Quoted from A_J_B:

New to the JP Premium club this week (second pin for the house). Machine seems to work as advertised (I'm reviewing the key posts this weekend) so hopefully it stays this way.
One question on the T-Rex multi-ball when the T-Rex head moves back and forth and drops the ball, is it suppose to be dropped randomly or put somewhere specific? The other T-Rex modes, it places it on the wireform from the ramp with no problem.
I'll try and keep the n00b questions to a minimum but please forgive me if I ask something that has been answered 10 times already.
-AJB

There’s a setting in the menu to allow random throw or not. Might be that. I have mine set to not allow throw so it just goes on the wire.

2 months later
#8798 1 year ago
Quoted from superNESjoe:

Hey everyone, hoping for some help here. Got a NIB JP Pro, less than 100 plays on it and I've had it only a week or so.
The ball next to the jeep that the jeep spins around came off. I've tried popping it back on with a little force and a rubber mallet but it doesn't take much more than some wiggling to get it to pop right back off again.
Any suggestions?
[quoted image]

I don't know, but if I had to guess I think people might recommend looking into a warranty replacement. Just a guess though

2 weeks later
#8808 1 year ago
Quoted from Joker19:

Not sure this will help. The smart missile being available has nothing to do with the position of the truck.
Check the rule sheet here: http://tiltforums.com/t/stern-jurassic-park-rulesheet/5644#heading--smartmissile

I’m pretty sure smart missile only activates when the truck is facing the direction for the narrow shot.

IIRC in the initial game code the smart missile could be activated with the truck facing either direction but in one of the updates it was changed.

#8823 1 year ago
Quoted from StoneyCreek:

You can't go that route since a MISS is registered if a switch is hit before the SM switch. I've successfully used a Multiball to hit the truck the opposite way when waiting for the SM countdown though.

As SimplePin and Manny65 said, this is not correct. There is no MISS registered until the timer for making the shot expires. Until then any hit to the target will count.

#8827 1 year ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

Better than that... The actual shot can be made until the END of the "missed shot" video. I've done it many times. You hear the "that's a miss" audio then you hit it and get it awarded anyway.

Yep there is a nice little grace period there.

4 months later
#8948 1 year ago
Quoted from JohnTTwo:

Is there a way to adjust how much time there is to select the prize for smart bomb?

I don't think so. I haven't noticed it in the menus and as far as I know I don't think anyone's ever mentioned such an adjustment existing.

#8950 1 year ago
Quoted from JohnTTwo:

Thanks it just seems like there is not enough time to make a selection.
What do you guys usually pick?

You get used to knowing which options you're looking for and how many button presses away they are for the selection. Smart Missile is an example of what I like about this game (and other Elwin games). Lots of interesting picks available, and they're very well balanced so there isn't really a case of it being "this is THE BEST way to do it" like some games have.

My pick depends on the situation in the game and whether or not I'm playing for score or to progress deeper through the game. I think the only 2 I don't ever pick are Super Combos and the 25M.

I like Clear Paddock in the T-Rex or Spinosaurus paddocks. Can't really go wrong with an Extra Ball when it's available. Sometimes I pick 5 Rescues at the beginning of the game, and sometimes I'll take complete CHAOS if I'm trying to spell it to light the final control room mode. Invalid is fun to play so I'll take that once in awhile too. I also choose Abort sometimes if I want to wait to use it in the next paddock or if I'm in the middle of a T-Rex or Control room mode and don't want to break the flow for the smart missile shot.

3 weeks later
#8971 1 year ago
Quoted from furnissrohio:

New to the club with a premium. Reading through the posts for help on my Raptor. He doesn’t stand up, lays down to the left and I get no movement. Do I need to contact Stern for a replacement? Seems to be no adjustment when I take it apart. Thanks
[quoted image][quoted image]

If you lift it up by hand does it stay upright?

The weight on the rear of it should bring it back to upright and hold it there. Usually this has been just a case of some part of the raptor getting caught on something so it won’t go back upright. So it’s just a matter of making an adjustment so it doesn’t catch anymore and it will return to upright.

But if you’re setting it upright and it won’t stay upright then something else is going on with it.

3 months later
#9049 8 months ago
Quoted from Savageroots:

Hey all!
I just got a sweet deal on a JP Prem and I am loving so much. A couple questions because I am coming from having an AIQ. Does the T. rex head make noise when it moves like gears moving or is it suppose to be silent? Also I have a slight issue when I plunge sometimes it doesn’t always make the horseshoe. I think I need to check my front legs because I think my floor is a bit sloped.
Anyways I am loving the game. I feel like there is so much to see and do. I even love watching my son play the game as the LCD has such better action on it compared to AIQ.
[quoted image]

T-Rex noise is normal.

For the plunge it depends on what's going on with yours. This is a pretty common issue in the forum and if you search keyword "plunge" you'll see a lot of suggestions. But the best fix for yours will depend on what's going on with your game. Best idea is to take slow motion video of the plunge to see why the ball isn't making it and then adjust to correct it.

#9053 8 months ago
Quoted from brooklynknight:

Everything has been perfect and the dinosaur has been 100% however today I am finding that I am getting constant rejects when trying to get the ball in any of the t rex mouth modes. It will at times be a clean shot and just role out. other times its as if the mouth is not all the way down on the ramp (or it looks that way). Any thoughts on adjustments ect...) May I need to mess with Adjustment number 330 and 331 ( T-Rex Step Keep Jaw Open Ticks and T-Rex Step Drop Jaw open ticks)

Here's how T-Rex works:
1) Head lowers
2) A ball crossing the ramp entrance opto activates the magnet in the mouth
3) The opto beam in the mouth being blocked tells the game there's a ball on the magnet, so the magnet stays on and holds the ball

Taking things step by step to eliminate possible causes and going in order of easiest stuff to fix to the harder stuff to fix is usually the best way to troubleshoot. Here's how I'd troubleshoot this one:
1) Go into active switch test and make sure the ramp entrance opto and mouth opto are not registering when they shouldn't be
2) Take the glass off and take the ball in hand to check that each of the T-Rex steps above is working correctly. If they aren't, then troubleshoot the step that isn't working. If they are, then you might need to make a physical adjustment of the T-Rex.

If you get to the point where you think you might need to make a physical adjustment to the T-Rex, I'd first take slow motion videos from straight ahead and from the side to see how the ball is entering the mouth so you have an idea of what might need to be adjusted.

There's a key post detailing one of the physical adjustments here:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/18#post-5228793

I think there are alignment adjustments that can be done in the software menu.

If you try physical adjustments with the mod head on (it looks like you previously mentioned putting the mod head one) and can't get it to work, then I'd try putting the factory one back on to see if it works. That would then tell you if it's some issue with the mod head. Eventually you should be able to narrow down the issue and resolve it.

1 month later
#9073 7 months ago
Quoted from MNPinner:

Having an issue with the T-Rex jaw not going all the way down to the ramp to collect the ball. I’m assuming there is some fixed buried in these threads I just can’t find it. Can anybody help if there is a software adjustment that can be done versus a physical.

Left/right alignment is in software. Up/down adjustment is physical.

Topic Index (Key Posts) at the top of the page on a forum usually has good tech info bookmarked. Here's one on the physical adjustment if the jaw isn't touching the ramp when it's lowered.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/18#post-5228793

2 months later
#9075 5 months ago
Quoted from jacksparrow0112:

Just brought home a premium and have this exact issue, except I cannot locate the screw in the bottom of my cabinet. I checked the entire TREX head and motor assembly, and cannot find it anywhere.
Does anyone have the specs on this screw or a recommendation on how I can quickly replace it? Thanks much!!!

Not sure which screw you're referring to, but the manual on the Stern website has good diagrams and parts references for all parts of the T-Rex assembly. Pages 58-61 of the manual. Seems like a pretty good chance it would be listed there.

4 months later
#9177 31 days ago
Quoted from CypherPinball:

We got the mouth closing consistently with covering up half the opto on the right side. So trex is pretty much dialed in now.
One more question. Is there an adjustment for how long the trex will thrash with the ball at the start of trex multiball? It seems like it gets held for a decent amount of time. The second ball is well into play when it finally gets released.

That’s normal timing.

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