Quoted from Breger1:I was going pro then upgrading to premium due to my impatience, but found a hobbit Smaug to keep me satisfied for a while
Pros are shipping first though, correct???
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Quoted from Breger1:I was going pro then upgrading to premium due to my impatience, but found a hobbit Smaug to keep me satisfied for a while
Pros are shipping first though, correct???
Quoted from pascal-pinball:Looks like a LE arrived in Belgium today.
It’s for a special event.
Pic@Internaute cafe Tounai[quoted image]
What the hell is going on with those legs????!!!
Looks like the LE has finally received its 15th pinsider review which means it will be included in this weeks top 100 update. Don't forget to rate this masterpiece from Stern
The haters have been particularly rough on the Pro model. If you set the ratings so you see all of them (not just the ones that left comments), you'll find ratings as low as 5.5. That's just pure HATIN'. Even without the extra toys, the Pro model is a damn blast to play, and deserves better than that.
Quoted from Royale-W-Cheese:Nice, how would I make that work on my blades? be awesome to see it spin.
It couldn't work on the existing blades. It's too big and its die cast metal. I removed my cheap flat plastic helicopter thingy completely, and fabricated a mounting bracket.
Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:For those using Pinstadiums on JP, where are you plugging your UV flashers into? Not even convinced the game needs the UV, but will plug it in and decide.
Plugged mine into the flasher under the Trex ramp. That way whenever T tex modes are ready, the UV pulses as an indicator
Quoted from caker137:So the tape thing clearly works, but I was looking for a more permanent solution. Here's how a few washers can fix this and it's pretty easy.
[quoted image]First you can check your opto alignment with a ball in switch test mode (I used some magnets to position it into the beam). My ramp was fine (I had to lift the ball over 1/4" to get the beam to detect), but both of my orbit optos were able to "see" the beam with the ball raised only about a 1/16". If the ball is flying it may sail over the beam, or at the very least get de-bounced with the bottom of the ball only breaking the beam for a very short time.
[quoted image]
So you're looking for this bracket for each of the optos. Take loose the 2 1/4 hex screws and unplug and remove the opto assembly.
[quoted image]
There are 2 philips head screws holding each opto plastic to the metal bracket. You want to remove these screws and slide a washer onto both screws underneath each opto.
[quoted image]
I had a 0.060" thick #4 nylon washer that was perfect. You can see the optos sitting up a little higher on the bracket.
[quoted image]
Reinstall the opto into the game and you're all set. As you can see the LED is slightly higher in the hole.
This makes all the difference, and now my optos don't fail to trigger unless you raise the ball over 1/4" high off the playfield. I've not had any fast opto shots fail to trigger after this fix.
Enjoy!
Awesome post. Thanks for taking the time. Could you also share this in the non premium/le thread?
Quoted from MrMikeman:And here is my cute Roxy pretending to be a TREX lol..[quoted image][quoted image]
You should also post this in the "cats and pinballs" thread. Absolute best thread on Pinside!
Quoted from wilder828:I have had the auto-plunge occur on my machine. I'll see if it only happens on multi-player games. In addition, I get -- ball goes out of play while within the save period, but ends. Ball goes down escape and unlights escape but ends. And then I get all sorts of weird trex mode starts... some with +1 ball, some without any balls. The machine also spends lots of time looking for missing balls... usually after one of these events....when none are missing. It doesn't always happen, but is happening very frequently now, to where it's not much fun to play.
What does the switch test menu show? Anything? Possible trough switch issues maybe?
Quoted from timlah79:Perhaps there's already an answer I just can't find it. Curious if any company has put together a full rubber + plastic replacement set for JP (post sleeves, o-rings etc.)? I'm traversing the parts list and adding onesie twosies to my Pinball Life cart, wondering if there's a better way / simply a set I can buy with desired colors. Looks like some companies have put together sets for other games.
I put a complete set up on Titan Rubbers game database
Quoted from adamross:You have two Munsters?
I believe he has hung a munsters translite on the back of the head of his elvira. Just to cover up the flat black void I assume. Since it's not pushed against a wall
Quoted from Nameim:Yesterday, my left ramp/trex opto suddenly stopped working on my JP premium. On closer inspection I think found the problem. Part of the post on the right side of the entrance to the ramp is missing leaving the opto vulnerable to bashing. I don’t think it was ever there since there are no “spare parts’ floating around the playfield or cabinet. I have contacted Stern and they are sending parts.[quoted image][quoted image]
GET RID OF THE STOCK BLACK STERN RUBBERS AND POST SLEEVES. See that black crud on your guide? That's from the rubbers and post sleeves. It's all over your balls and playfield most likely. Swap them out and clean everything. The stock black rubbers/post sleeves are crap
Quoted from bbulkley:My JJP POTC has zero black rubber (comes that way from the factory) and there is still plenty of black on the flippers. Either way I think you're going to need regular cleaning.
No disagreement there. However, the black rubbers Stern uses leaves this almost greasy, black, smudgy crap everywhere. On the balls, on the guides, on the rails, etc. Not the regular dust buildup.
Quoted from hornisse69:Someone have a idea to change the helicopter rotor blades ?
maybe a cover or a total exchange ?
They are so ugly..
Die cast metal realistic helicopter from Amazon. Custom bracket by me. No, the blades do not spin, but who cares. I hated the stock helicopter. My machine is a pro btw.
20191026_224357 (resized).jpgQuoted from jalpert:You need the blades to spin on the Prem/LE. The blades are an optical switch that has game play implications.
The switch is still there and still functional. It's a pressure switch on the pro, not optical, but as long as the switch is functioning who needs the blades to spin? Unless of course the spinning blades are what is interrupting the optic beam.
Quoted from madscientist101:My TRex head came with a scratch from
Factory.. I am asking for a replacement.. you guys think It should be replaced? I do...
[quoted image]
I'd ask for a replacement, put a little touch up paint on the current head, and keep on flipping. Save the replacement head as a spare.
Quoted from mthirkell:I don't know of a better game, but it keeps dropping in the ratings. I see someone recently gave it a 7.64, which would put it at #120 between Royal Rumble (WWF) and Mustang. I mean, that's just absurd.
If you go to the rankings, and change the settings so that you can view the ratings that do NOT have comments, you'll be shocked. Default only shows you the ratings that have comments attatched. There are HATERS leaving JP ratings of 2 to 5. It's insane really. Moderators should bump that crap. Anyone giving this game below a 5, just isnt being objective. Period. End of story.
Quoted from ABE_FLIPS:anyone have had a ultra loud flying ball into the glass from control room coil coming up to late and hitting the ball (premium).
i play in a quiet room and i nearly sht my pants ...and i was thinking about building an airball protector, because it happened 3 times already.
EDIT: just happened again! ouuch
As far as playfield wear goes, minor scuffs and dimples will eventually happen. I wouldnt concern myself with those and just enjoy your machine. The airballs being caused by the control room plunger however, is a different story. That should NOT be happening. My guess would be either a sensor or the post rubbing and coming up to slowly. I've never had that happen on my game.
Quoted from mthirkell:I thought the game was dark; had to add the Omegas, too. So much of a difference.
Until you add the stadium lighting, you dont realize just how dark the game is. It needs it.
Quoted from Gee_Bananas:n00b here,
Never owned a pin before and decided on a JP Premium NIB over a STh Premium. It get's delivered on Monday.
Lurked through the thread and read about some of the major issues, but what should a rookie be on the look out for? I'm a beginner player, so my eye isn't keen enough to know if it's user error or manufacturer error. How soon would I see defects on the PF due to ghosting, pooling, dimples? Are there major mech issues too?
You should be fine. Unless something is majorly wrong, just set it up and enjoy. I pre ordered my pro model, and there is some minor pooling on a few posts, but no other problems. Of course, there will be some adjusting and tweaking to be done. That's normal
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Not in a real rush. Also, if I decide I want an LE then I assume the second hand market will be my only choice (Have all LE's sold? If not, I'm sure any left are over priced).
All LEs are long gone unless someone has one hidden away somewhere. Advice above is correct. Gameplay is identical for Prem/Le. Shaker is cheap and easy to install. I've never "needed" invisiglass, but some love it. Powder coat armor if you want. The rest is pretty much fluff.... plaque, signature, certificate, etc. If you consider buying new, I got mine from melissa at Cointaker. They will knock a few hundred off of advertised price, ship for free, and no upcharge for using a credit card. Great folks.
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