Whenever I buy a new Stern that has a metal apron, first thing I do is take the apron out and put a layer of mylar under it. When I put it back in, I try not to over tighten. Recently I got a 3D printer and decided to go the extra mile for my BKLE by making small u-channels to snap on the bottom of the apron where it meets the playfield. That was before all this clear coat stuff came up, so I'm glad I did.
Apron trim (resized).png

20190520_081034 (resized).jpg

Seems like the next batch of Premiums might be a safe bet as far as playfields go?

Joined the club yesterday! Was very lucky to pick up an HUO Premium with a couple hundred plays and an April 2021 build date. This game is really hard to find and there is a wait until at least December to get one NIB. I already ordered a shaker and knocker and a handful of other mods. Also, have been going through this thread to look for standard fixes. I already did the washer trick to fix the shooter. I protected the shooter lane with two layers of mylar in the damage zone. I need to get a green dome to cover the flasher on the left. That white dome is blinding...

Now I just need to figure out the rules and try to get deep into the game!

I've been in the club for a week now and have learned a lot and made a lot of tweaks and fixes going through this thread searching and looking at pictures. Thanks to all who have posted tips.

Ever since seeing this game when it first came out, something about the silver screws and washers on the slingshot plastics bothered me. Why is T-Rex eating a chrome screw? I know it's a little silly, but I couldn't wait to replace these screws with black hardware. I went ahead and eliminated the washers and was careful not to tighten beyond just barely snug. Looking at it now, it doesn't seem so silly. It made a bigger difference than I expected. I also, did the lock nut in black. I found these cheap on Amazon a while back and they would probably look good on a lot of games.

20210718_110339 (resized).jpg

20210718_110351 (resized).jpg

I put the knocker in all my Sterns including JP and they sound awesome and LOUD. You mounted it to hit the back of the cabinet using the template in the instructions? You turned off the software knocker (knocker volume to off) in the settings menu?

Looks like the plate is not flush on the back. Look closely on the lower right corner. Also, I hear what sounds like a ringing after the knock like something metallic is vibrating still.

Generally after I install a knocker, I push the plunger until it is touching the plate and make sure there is about an 1/8th inch of travel left so the plunger has not bottomed out.

If you are drilling your own plate, I would either move the holes up a bit or aim them a little higher. I find the shooter to light the best when my hand is around it to deflect the light in and up.

I made my own Pteranodon and Goat mods. Both were easy, cheap and look better than the ones I see for sale. I don't have a problem in general with adding nice looking models to the playfield. My problem with the ones posted above is that they block the view of a (small) portion of the playfield. Generally I like to find an empty spot where the item looks like it belongs rather than it is piled in there.

I used this one. Had to sharpie on some spots but it had the right size and nice details. I used an electrical loop crimp on his leg to hold him in place using an existing nut.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B099DXQJVB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title

20210822_203313 (resized).jpg

20210827_142750 (resized).jpg

I used piano wire and went to a mount under the backside of the loop ramp so the wire is a lot less visible. It is a fairly simple mod, just drill the figure a new butt hole and preform the wire to the correct length and it is done. Mine bounces around very little and is positioned to not block the view of any inserts or ball movement.

I would contact ULEK. They should be making them out of PETG. Looks like that is acrylic in order to crack like that. I've been happy with the items I bought from them, so they would probably welcome the feedback.

Yes, photos are deceiving and the Pinstadium pictures are notorious for that. Simply put the camera sees things different from the eyes and no JP ever looked like that picture on the left to the naked eye. I can play any of the Stern SPIKE, AP or Spooky games just fine with no lights on in the room whatsoever. That said, I do have a little light from above to help balance out the lighting at times where there is too much strobing or variation in the GI lighting for my liking. Pinstadium are great if you are streaming or if you have a JJP game with the pitiful light tube GI lights. Even still I would just add a few spot lights or more ambient light in the room.

I agree this is one of very few games I have ever put backboard lighting in. I normally try to DIY, but sometimes it is just too easy and reasonably priced:

https://lermods.com/shop/ols/products/jurassic-park-pinball-led-strip-backboard-light

I have those same side rails on my premium. They look awesome, but don't really stand out in dim game room lighting. Does anyone make a backlighting kit? If not, they should!!

Where have you guys been getting these home pin translites? I've been searching everywhere for one, I can't stand the translite in the premium.

Pinball Life had the JP Home Pin version of the translite in stock, so I snapped one up. It looks so much better. Definitely more of an action scene without the ridiculous slobbering and drooling as the main focus of the scene. Not to mention the colors look better and richer. Definitely worth the money IMO.

20220709_135056 (resized).jpg

I had the same problem with the building in Godzilla and it turned out to be a set screw that was not tight enough. Look on page 48 of the JP Premium/LE manual and the set screw is part #9. It says to install locktite. Maybe they didn't install the locktite at the factory? Either way, I would break out the allen wrenches and tighten that screw to see if it helps.