(Topic ID: 248218)

Welcome To The Jurassic Park Prem/LE Club!!

By Royale-W-Cheese

4 years ago


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“What is the first MOD you will buy??”

  • Toppers 59 votes
    46%
  • New Jeep 51 votes
    40%
  • Plastic Characters 18 votes
    14%

(128 votes)

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Topic index (key posts)

18 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #885 TECH: PLAYFIELD. T-Rex alignment bulletin from Stern. Posted by pickleric (4 years ago)

Post #1396 TECH: PLAYFIELD. Shooter fix Posted by Chambahz (4 years ago)

Post #1619 read before dismantling the raptor Posted by timlah79 (4 years ago)

Post #1830 TECH: PLAYFIELD. T-Rex adjustment info according to Keith Elwin Posted by sk8ball (4 years ago)

Post #2358 TREX Adjustment info Posted by imagamejunky (4 years ago)

Post #2625 TECH: PLAYFIELD. Raptor pit detailed adjustment instructions. Posted by yancy (4 years ago)

Post #2994 TECH: PLAYFIELD. T-Rex head removal tips and Jaw screw fix. Posted by f3honda4me (4 years ago)

Post #3326 Amber Bonus rules and details Posted by fooflighter (4 years ago)

Post #3417 TECH: SWITCHES. Opto sensor not registering on orbit fix Posted by caker137 (4 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#6770 3 years ago
Quoted from Utesichiban:

I received my Stern lighted shooter rod last week and am qoeking on installing this morning. The instructions Stern sent me I don't think are for this shooter rod, though.
The instructions I received says don't remove the two hex wood screws at the bottom of the plunger mounting plate inside the cabinet. However, the JP rod comes with its own plate and it won't fit with the attached cord through the standard plunger hole.
It looks like I need to remove the wood screws as well and attach the new JP plate to make this work but want to confirm with those that have already done this that maybe received good instructions from Stern first.... also, where does it attach into the board to light up once everything is installed?[quoted image]

Route the wires through each of the slots on the new mounting plate before screwing it on. I think there is only one plug on the lower left board that fits the connector.

7 months later
#8361 2 years ago

'Need some help with my T-Rex on my JP LE. I will try to explain thoroughly the background and issue at hand.

30 days ago, my LE's T-Rex's mouth magnet was acting up--It was failing to hold the ball'

Mine is doing this. Anyone fix their assembly with this issue? The coil test for the t Rex mouth does fire and grab the ball.

1 month later
#8492 2 years ago
Quoted from RefugeNate:

Freebird did you ever look into this further? After playing today, I noticed my T-Rex doing the same thing. Sometimes after the intro roar, the jaw stays open. During game play the jaw will sometimes stay open at times. Also, once T-Rex Multiball starts, T-Rex tries to do the chomp but the jaw stays open a little and the ball falls out of his mouth on the left side. The ball is supposed to stay in the mouth longer for sure. I have the same binding if I open the jaw fully by hand but also wonder if the magnet is not working as it should or is it just the lower jaw not closing like it should.

I've encountered the same problem. I think the jaw mech is making contact with the upper inside of the rubber body. I think it needs more clearance but I haven't figured out a solution. At first I thought it was a coil issue or a sensor issue, but I do think it's a jaw binding issue at this point.

#8500 2 years ago
Quoted from Freebird:

RefugeNate, I have the exact same situation you describe - sometimes the jaw stays open during intro roar, sometimes during game play, etc. I did confirm that it is just the jaw sticking and not a magnet issue. I also confirmed that in my case, the sticking is related to temperature. My machine is in a room that can get kind of cold, sometimes down to 57 degrees or so. If I come in, turn on the machine and do a jaw open diagnostic, it will stick open - maybe for a second or two, or maybe for quite a while. If I leave the machine on for an hour or two and add some heat to the room, it works fine. I bet your magnet is working fine. The jaw and the magnet work together to get the chomping action. If the jaw sticks open even briefly during the chomp or just after he grabs it and swings his head, the ball comes out when the magnet releases even if it's not supposed to. I still plan on taking my t-rex out and figuring out what exactly is binding.

This is a great observation. Mine started acting up when the temps dropped. I think the rubber is constricting just enough to cause hang ups.

#8509 2 years ago
Quoted from Freebird:

RefugeNate, I have the exact same situation you describe - sometimes the jaw stays open during intro roar, sometimes during game play, etc. I did confirm that it is just the jaw sticking and not a magnet issue. I also confirmed that in my case, the sticking is related to temperature. My machine is in a room that can get kind of cold, sometimes down to 57 degrees or so. If I come in, turn on the machine and do a jaw open diagnostic, it will stick open - maybe for a second or two, or maybe for quite a while. If I leave the machine on for an hour or two and add some heat to the room, it works fine. I bet your magnet is working fine. The jaw and the magnet work together to get the chomping action. If the jaw sticks open even briefly during the chomp or just after he grabs it and swings his head, the ball comes out when the magnet releases even if it's not supposed to. I still plan on taking my t-rex out and figuring out what exactly is binding.

I just took the T-Rex apart again. I put spacers between the upper jaw on both sides and the rubber body where it doesn't interfere with the opening and closing of the jaw. My T-Rex now works perfectly. It's been months and lots of head banging but I think I have it.

#8511 2 years ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Do you have any pics or are you able to highlight on the assembly diagram where you put the spacers and what size they were?
[quoted image]

Quoted from Manny65:

Do you have any pics or are you able to highlight on the assembly diagram where you put the spacers and what size they were?
[quoted image]

Directly above where the lower jaw hinges to the upper. In coil test if the jaw is stuck open and you use your fingers to spread the rubber body it will snap shut. I just needed minimal spacers to give the lower hinge clearance.

#8513 2 years ago
Quoted from timlah79:

I've suspected that a lot of my jaw issues have been due to the "rubbing" of the mold as well. Can you please show pics or if you don't want to dismantle the assembly again, then like Manny65 said, download and mark-up that diagram to show where you put spacers in between what part and what spacers you used (model number)? That would really help the community!

I was rushed for time and my fix isn't very professional and may not be permanent. I wadded up post it notes (one on each side) and basically stuffed them up it's cheeks. I then made sure there was clearance and the lower jaw wasn't contacting the paper or rubber. It proved the theory but maybe someone can improve the fix. I won't be able to work on it again for over a week. The paperwad spacers are nearly underneath the eyes sockets. I'm also in contact with Pablo at Stern to see if he has any thoughts. I hope this helps for now.

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