Jurassic Park (Limited Edition)
Stern, 2019
Jurassic Park (Premium)
Stern, 2019You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider ABE_FLIPS.
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since you seem to not read the other JP thread here we go:
600 games, clearcoat is damaged at the upper flippers post.
The post was never loose, because i always checked it!
Build date = Dec. 17. 2019
For the post sleeve i just can recommend PerfectPlay "thin" post sleeves, since the other ones have extreme repound.
https://pu-parts.com/perfectplay-silicone-thin-post-sleeve-1-1-16_9
Quoted from Freakyguy666:It’s ridiculously easy to screw up too!
thats right, but everyone owning a pinball machine HAVE TO learn this, its so important imo.
Quoted from Arcade:Got most of my game dialed in now thanks to this group.
One last thing that was concerning my family was the amount of ball hop for a ball coming back down the S lane from a weak shot or poor plunge.
I wondered if the ball guide could be pushed up some to stop this. Short answer is no. There is zero play in this guide.
While I had the plastics taken apart I noticed that the metal guide is so damn close to the post that it had cut through the black rubber ring. (Original Stern ring in photo.)
I replace this ring with a new one but it is already getting sliced open.
The only fix I can think of would be to throw out this rubber ring altogether and only put a single post rubber on the middle post.
Has anyone tried this yet or have a better idea?[quoted image]
for the rubber slicing, grind the edge a littlebit.
I bent my guide just a littlebit, now it sometimes happens, when the ball just goes half the way up the S lane or has alot of spin to it, it wont make it to the left flipper but drains instead. there is no perfect way. if you dont hit the ramp you can get screwed, like on every other ramp.
If you want to go as save as possible, try to adjust it, that the ball hits the bottom post of the left slingshot.
I made the 4th skillshot once, first time i noticed the opto on the the O shot isnt working always. IT DIDNT COUNT grrrrrr 
Quoted from snaroff:Looks like the insert is raised. Doesn't look like ghosting to me. I've had quite a few Stern's over the years and haven't seen this...fairly rare.
thanks, checked some "ghosting" fotos, and thats definitely it. all inserts are "raised" due to thin clear coat.
you even can see this on some artwork on the playfield. i dont know how they print the color on the PF but i can see "layers" in height.
Today i noticed a small cut in the PF and deeper scratches, not reomovable with novous 2.
i have the stern clear coat repair kit, but i have no idea how i could fix that.
and i'm afraid to get more PF damage, the balls looks ok to me, sure some minor scratches but they dont look too bad.
but i'm not experienced with this, anyone can help?
20200421_163934 (resized).jpganyone have had a ultra loud flying ball into the glass from control room coil coming up to late and hitting the ball (premium).
i play in a quiet room and i nearly sht my pants 
...and i was thinking about building an airball protector, because it happened 3 times already.
EDIT: just happened again! ouuch
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:As far as playfield wear goes, minor scuffs and dimples will eventually happen. I wouldnt concern myself with those and just enjoy your machine. The airballs being caused by the control room plunger however, is a different story. That should NOT be happening. My guess would be either a sensor or the post rubbing and coming up to slowly. I've never had that happen on my game.
post coil is perfect smooth, and how could it be the sensor? the sensor get triggered and the post comes up.
it happenes only on very fast balls, and target not shot on purpose.
Here is my fix for now.
20200422_154056 (resized).jpgQuoted from tacreno:I second this as I also have my flipper power turned down a little and do not have this problem. This game is VERY finicky if it is not level, suggest checking playfield pitch and horizontal level.
PF is perfect leveled and at 7°.
right flipper power is at factory, i could try this, thanks.
I have a question about accuracy.
I was quite frustrated with JP until i did some shot accuaracy training- i found on this skillguide:
http://wapinball.net/skillguide.pdf
alot of helpful tips!
it says i have to hit each shot 5 times in a row, then move on to the next shot. after that, i should start combining shots.
It improved my accuracy, but im not able to shoot every shot 5 times in a row and my accuracy is also not consistent.
i have to dial in my shots again each day beacause i loose the feeling for them.
how do you do this? do you have a routine or something? i want to get better!
JP can be so frustrating if you take more than 3 tries for a shot, and it can be so good if you combine your needed shots "on the fly"
like the skillshots. Just a hint for other frustrated players 
Quoted from EaglePin:Be patient, have fun playing, play as much as you can, and you'll keep getting better.
It took me probably 6 months playing a lot to keep the feeling for the shots on my POTC when I first started playing a lot of pinball. On Jurassic Park it took me a long time also, but part of that was because I spent a couple months making changes to pitch and flipper power to dial the shots in so I kept having to re-learn them. Once I kept flipper power and pitch the same it still took a month or so of playing a lot to develop the muscle memory to remember where the shots are.
And on Jurassic Park it only takes a small miss to cause a drain, so even though I can now hit most of the shots with a bit of consistency I still have trouble getting to the Visitor Center because it only takes 3 or 4 small misses and the game is over. So now I need to work on my ball save nudging skills. There's always something to learn
thanks for the insight!
NIB Dec 2019:
-Clear Coat chipping at the upper flippers post. (I checked if the post got loose everyday, didnt help)
-Clear Coat chipping at 2 ball guides.
-Clear Coat chipping at the apron, not because of overtightening, but because the apron is not perfectly straight, and thats why it cuts into the PF.
-PF is not smooth, since the inserts are all not even and the clear is very thin. I like even PF's, and my NIB deadpool pro Dec. 2019 looks better in that regard.
-Dimples yes, too much for my taste.
-Helipad ramp was too high and i have had to bend it, so that the blade didnt get stuck.
-T-Rex wont eat the ball everytime...
My distributor sent me a clear coat touch up kit from stern... thats all i got so far.
You will have to do some work before you start the game, if you want no PF damage IMO. However, its an awesome game.
this piece should rest on the stronger metal guide. try to bend i back. i guess you have to remove some parts to do so.
Quoted from 85vett:Just received notice my Premium has officially shipped. Ordered first of Jan so it's been a long wait. Hoping it wont take to much time to dial in once it gets here.
enjoy the process, its half of the fun
Quoted from Apex:I started playing competitively in '16 and took until September of '19 until I raised my game enough and qualified. Now my wife... she played for about one month and earned one of the biggest mover spots! So there is always hope!
may i ask how often and long did you practice per week?
do you have a training routine? i have no possibilty to get taught on location, so i just can watch streams, tutorials and dvds(pinball 101 etc.)
do you have any hint for me? i play about 1 hr per day and have a few machines at home.
thanks!
thanks guys, dead bounces and drop catches work quite well for me and live catches are getting better over time.
so i guess i just have to keep doing what i do. i feel like multiballs, shot accuracy, code strategy and personal stress level are my weak spots.
I have a question regarding combos in this game.
I heared that the red light at the heli pad is the indicator for an ongoing combo.
At the premium it also lights up when the heli blade is spinning and i was not able to see if a combo is still active or not.
Will the light flash until the combo is finished or gets interrupted? what will end a combo, is time a factor too?
and the second question noone answerd was about the escape target. i get so much direct bounce to right outlane drains from it.
how and when do you try to shoot the target? i try to hit it whenever its lit, of course MB is a nice opportunity to hit it without risk.
Quoted from Multiballmaniac1:I’m in! Never even played it before buying. Homerun Stern. Playfield looks good no planking or anything that stood out. Built 6/4.
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wait... your inserts do not stand up a little bit, can you feel the inserts and artwork through the clear coat?
my PF looks bad now after 1500 games- cratering. they have to figure this out for a 8k+ game.
my DP pro still looks nice, not nearly as bad.
Quoted from MikeS:Here's a few pics of mine, made 06/05/20. Clear is thin, but I'm happy with the quality so far.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
mine looked the same, i have had a few clear coat chippings after some weeks at the upper flippers post and at a few ball guides.
imo you should not feel the inserts and art through the clear coat with your hands! I'm happy to get a PF replacement but im sure it will wear the same.
those dimples are too much...
Quoted from Flasher:I fabricated my own custom topper with some reptile aquarium plants, a raptor toy, some insulation foam, a branch of an applewood tree, LED strips, and paint. <$100. I have a few more small details to add like small signs and a electrical box on the raptor pen walls. Looks cool when it shakes.
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show the machine as a whole, i hardly can see a thing.
Quoted from EaglePin:Ok, anyone have a guess as to when they’ll fix the bug that causes the smart missile post to go up and the down (so not stopping the ball so you can take the shot) when T-Rex multiball starts? It’s been a bug for awhile now and it’s starting to, um, bug me a lot.
I thought this bug was obvious, hope they fix it too.
Quoted from Multiballmaniac1:Seems like my T-Rex is now only catching ball half the time or less. Has to be a perfect shot. Is this normal?
Thanks
Same here, from about 3/4 catches it went down to 1/2 in the last few weeks.
Quoted from seenev:Stern got right back to me and said they will send it. I guess little things like this are an easy fix for them. They're probably glad whenever someone's not asking for a new playfield.
Or they are tired of people asking them to send 1$ items 
Quoted from zeldarioid:Have always felt that the helipad half pipe didn't do a great job of conveying that it needed to be shot with just the single yellow light on the sign, so decided to add an (appropriately-themed amber) LED strip at the top to help illuminate it and draw the eye when it was ready/required to shoot. Tied it into the same power as the yellow light, so it only lights when the shot is available. First time soldering onto a pin, only my second time soldering ever!
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what a great idea! looks very nice! just the L bracked is not looking good. maybe there is a nicer way to hide the LEDs
there is a little slit, maybe thats enough for the light, ill check that out too.
asdffdsa (resized).pngQuoted from zeldarioid:Yeah the bracket isn’t fantastic if you’re looking right at it, but it was just about the best option that I could figure, and thankfully it blends in when you’re not sitting there looking at it specifically (i.e. while playing). The slit between the sides and half pipe itself was my original thought, but a) the LED strip was *just* too thick to go through, and b) I ultimately decided I didn’t want the strip anywhere that the ball could contact and potentially be disrupted. The LED strip laying on the back of the half pipe, shining through the slit, provided an okay amount of light, but not as much (obviously) as where the bracket has it now. I also considered affixing the strip to the Helipad sign post on the left of the ball entrance, but it illuminated too much else for my tastes, so again came back to the bracket. If you had a properly colored LED, you could probably just point a spotlight at the half pipe, but then you’ve got an entire spotlight unit dedicated to that, and to look at, so *shrug*. It got to a point where I decided it was just time to get the damn thing in the game hah, and the bracket was the most effective, so here we are
If anyone else implements this, though, and does find a more elegant solution, please share! I’m sure there is another way to go about it, even if it’s still this bracket route and you just take the time to hide the bracket. But as I said, even with how I have it, you don’t notice it at all if you’re not sitting there staring at it specifically, so it’s not terrible in the end!
i gave it a shot too. i jammed 2 LEDs under the metal where the wireform is attached and i soldered them like you did. i hope you can see it from the images, they are so tiny, its hard to spot them. lets see how it holds up over time.
jpled (3) (resized).jpgjpled (1) (resized).jpgjpled (2) (resized).jpg
Quoted from zeldarioid:That is a great alternative! I don't expect those tiny LEDs should ever really expect to get hit by the ball down there, either. I had the LED strip on hand, so worked with what I could, but I'll have to instead look to get some lil' 3mm LEDs in the appropriate color and rework it like you've got it here Very nice!
Did you affix them at all, or are they just held in place between the wireform and the walls of the half pipe by their size and tension?
yes they are jammed in there very tight, to the point im afraid to break the cable. The ball can't touch the LED, no way.
You could hot glue there too if you want, but i dont like that. The LEDs could be brighter to my taste.
Best solution would be, to drill two hols in the back of the ramp (on the sides where the ball doesnt touch the metal) to make room for the LEDs.
May i ask where you bought your LED strip, i need some of those!
fooflighter
thanks, after the first scratch i decided to simply remove the sideblades when selling the machine and use mirrorblades in the future, since on my first machine the mirrorblades didnt get any damge at all.
Quoted from 85vett:Where did you get those LEDs? That would be perfect for my helicopter. I wanted to light up the cockpit when the ramp was lit.[quoted image]
nice idea, i bought them here in europe, but it was something like this with 5V
ebay.com link: 3mm 5mm Red Green Blue RGB 3V 5V 12V DC Round Pre Wired Water Clear LED
Anyone getting airballs by shooting the spinner perfectly from the right flipper.?
sometimes it goes up into the hex-spacer-post of the pteranoton ramp resulting in a total ball stop.
I made a little LED mod, which is subtle but i really like it- it always lights up when control room is ready.
I installed a LED behind the control room target and soldered it to the control room LED from below.
Just make sure the LED is bright enough and cover the top of the control room targets bracket with something black, because it can cause a nasty light reflection. Also use the right color of the control room, its light blue, don't use the standard blue like i did at first.
cntrl (1) (resized).jpgcntrl (2) (resized).jpgQuoted from Markharris2000:Do we have any general concensus or guidance on what to do with the post at the tip of the right upper flipper to protect the playfield? Stern ships it with a metal washer. I noticed a few posts here that have shown chipping and damage of the playfield at that post around the washer, but with just 10 games on my game, I was wondering if anyone had a solid suggestion I should do before it happens. Should I get a fiber or neoprene washer and add it against the clearcoat?
Also, is it just me, or did they make access to that post locknut underneath the playfield incredibly difficult? It is literally under the flipper assembly. (Asking for too much?)
My upper post was always tight, but it still chipped the CC...
A Nylon washer stopped further damage, just make sure its not thick, because the ball will reach the metal part below the rubber in this case.
Causing damage to balls and small metal pieces of the post will damage the PF.
Quoted from Markharris2000:Had some folks ask about the cabinet woofer upgrade on my JP Premium. So here are some images of the swap I made, using the $30 Boss CXX8. You can see the dramatic difference between the Stern stock (grey magnet) and the Boss. Both are 4 ohm, and mount in 8-inch spaces, but otherwise it's like night and day. I placed the speakers on a scale to show the massive difference in magnet size too (more than 3 times the weight). You can see it installed in last picture. Simple swap: pull the old one out with 4 nuts, move wires with a soldering iron, then use a round file to enlarge four of the holes in the CXX8 just a hint. Then press the CXX8 into place and put the nuts back on the posts (they will be hard to thread, but will work with some pressure and patience). Finally a drop of blue thread locker on each...
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
do you think this makes sense if using an external sub at the same time? And you do not us an amp or something right?
Quoted from Markharris2000:If using an external sub, you took a different approach and probably getting all the low-end you can get. That said, I like the self-contained approach, which leaves the machine identical to the way it shipped from the manufacturer and can be sold without needing any explanations about extra boxes.
Looking at the installed picture you can see I did not add any type of amplifier and just moved the two wire connector from their OEM speaker to my CXX8 (some simple testing showed me that the built-in cabinet speaker amplifier has plenty of power... it was just missing the way to get the power out effectively). In a previous note I showed the Kicker DSC40's I installed in the backbox (uses the same 4-inch mounting), and coupled with the CXX8, I wanted to show a $75 all-in upgrade for the top and bottom that makes a big difference.
Yeah i understand your approach. I use alligator clips for the woofer signal, so I can easily remove those when selling the pin, have a "real" low-end and no need for explainations either. However I already upgraded the backbox speakers too for more clarity and now I'm wondering if I can get even get more out of it by upgrading the internal woofer, not for extra sub-bass but more defined mids and lows. I guess i have to try it, nothing lost with 30$ in the pinball world.
Quoted from imagamejunky:Well.. it took 10 months, but today I finally received and installed my new replacement playfield. It looks fantastic! Thank you Stern!
A few things my son and I noticed immediately is that they changed the Trex slightly. It looks like Stern made him more of a darker olive green tan. It looks better IMO. Less green green. The teeth look bigger to me also.
Also the rgb leds have some slightly different colors too. The blues and green definitely look different.
Now I just need to diagnose the trex ramp not registering all fast shots...
I'm gonna dive into the optos tomorrow.
Junky
You got a populated PF??
Quoted from kidchrisso:I just did this for mine. Get the kit for $100.00 from speaker lights that gives you the plate and the lights for the 5.25" and get a color plate.
http://speakerlightkits.com/5.25-SPIKE-2-Speaker-Plates.html
Get these speakers, they sound great and look good too.
amazon.com link »
It is an easy swap over. Takes about 30 minutes. You will need to solder the wires onto the speaker tabs. make a note that there is a (+ & -) wire.
You can see my recent transformations pic in my post from yesterday. I used the mirror surround plate. Looks great.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park/page/141#post-5866017
nice, just did the exact same thing.
Quoted from Rob_G:It depends on a lot of factors like playfield geometry and sling power. At 6.7/6.8 it seems about right so far, even with the C and S shots.
Rob
the game is designed for 7°, people also reported that it makes the shots easier with this pitch.
after over 5k games i lowered the outlane posts and i feel like i get 30% more balls bouncing back from the danger zone.
I also loosened the tilt and I`m death saving. But again shot training made me better, just repeat the same shot over until you hit 5 in a row or something similar.
JP also has fun combos or modes you can use to make training interesting.
If you once get a taste of combining shots this game is a whole different machine.
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Mt Zion, IL