Got somewhat promising news from Stern this morning. They haven't had any stock in the past few weeks but are expecting about 50 pcs in the next week or two. So that sounds like production hasn't halted, just stalled again it seems. I'll definitely post again once I receive shipping confirmation from LSOG.

The problem is after those 50 pieces. Stern is having to find a new manufacturer once this batch is done.

Took delivery of an LE today and was somewhat surprised to see that the speakers don’t light up. Normal? If this is normal, what are my options if I want to light ‘em up?

http://www.speakerlightkits.com/SPIKE-2-Standard-or-Deluxe.html

Sorry, no the current code from delt+others is for .96. Sorry if I was confusing. This was just the first time I had downloaded the code to include movie audio callouts, so I was just excited to share my support.

Thanks for sharing the link J-Freeze

Polidori if you are interested, I also can get different color speaker surrounds for JP. Ones that will allow the light kits to shine through them and match the game better than the factory Munsters "Goldtastic". If you are interested in seeing any videos of different color surrounds in action with the light kits...send me a PM and I can send some links to you.

Doug (SpeakerLightKits.com)

In case anyone has the same problem, turned out to be a flaky solder connection on the coil that controls Trex’s jaw. It sits in the top of his head, so you need to remove the whole assembly- which is not as bad as it sounds. This coil has the wires pre soldered under the coil paper directly to the copper coil winding. Mine had just separated from one of the wires. I just re-soldered and taped with electircian tape and works perfectly now. But I’ll get a replacement OEM one From Stern just in case. I imagine it could be a future issue for some since it moves and vibrates a lot up there. If anyone needs more pics let me know.

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Funny, I just got a Deadpool LE and was like, woah the speakers light up. I guess Stern stopped doing this at some point?

Anyone have a issue with their JP2 plastic channel vibrating? My game sounds like crap with the glass on. I thought maybe rails weren’t tighten enough yet that wasn’t the issue it’s coming from the glass vibrating from the back plastic channel. What’s the fix for this? Is it something I should contact stern about to get replaced?

I always put electrical tape on the edge of my glass when I add a shaker motor. There is a special tape just for this that pinball mfg sell but it's pricey compared to what I do. Just put it to where the middle of the glass edge is in the middle of the tape and then fold the tape over both sides. Invisible once installed and makes the glass real tight.

I can't think of but maybe 1 or 2 of the games I've ever owned that didn't rattle the glass with a shaker motor being added.

Something is wrong with my game more then just adding tape to edges of glass. The difference in my JP vibrating and all the other games I have owned is day and night not something that just needs a bandaid.

Just holding back plastic channel

Mine vibrates something awful when the shaker motor hits. I keep meaning to fix it but I'm too busy playing.

I'd try some fabric felt tape. You should only have to do a few pieces spread out in the channel....

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013H8QDQG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title

This vibrates like crazy with just the normal sound coming from speakers let alone the shaker motor.. originally I thought the back box speakers were blown.

Try dialing down the cabinet speaker (not backbox). lower the volume on it a few db and see if it improves the rattling issue. It did on mine. I'm too lazy to install tape right now lol.

I adjusted my shaker motor and left the game setting on maximal and it is a perfect vibration now. Definitely recommend this if yours is too much

Yes, Star Trek LE, Mustang LE, Batman 66 SLE and Deadpool LE are the only games that Stern tried to light the speakers up on. Though Batman SLE and Deadpool LE did a better job than they did in Star Trek LE and (OMG) Mustang LE (I have heard from Mustang LE owners that didn't even know they had lights in them, as they simply can not be seen unless you make a point to look for them), the light kits I sell are still far full featured and, dare I say, better then what the factory Deadpool LE speaker lights can provide. Here is a video with the factory Deadpool LE on the left and my light kit on the right (click the video...the thumbnail is a bit deceiving). I actually think it would have looked even better with a red opaque surround installed instead of the transparent that they included from the factory. I suspect they went with the transparent so their under powered lighting could light them as good as they could. I can get different color speaker surrounds if anyone would want them ($22.50 a pair).

358 different color / color patterns, adjustable speed, adjustable brightness and a favorites list to save up to 8 of your favorite patterns to for easy access or for the controller to auto scroll through.

Doug (SpeakerLightKits.com)

Fun Observation: I think Deadpool LE got the factory speaker lights because Stern had the extra light parts around after Batman 66 SLE. They even have them listed as "Batman" parts in the Deadpool LE manual.
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PS: A Jurassic Park LE would light up even better around the speaker cones due to the Kenwood speakers they used having light silver speaker cones.

Honestly, I've had games just as bad as that and the tape fixed it. Yes, it's fairly lose in the channel but it's not necessarily a defective part. I think it has more to do with minor differences in cabs as they are built (you'll notice some have more gap for the PF than others when the PF is up). Some of my games like that stopped when I added the bent plastic for the DMD glare.

Worth investigating more but I'm not thinking a replacement rear channel with fix much.

Which ohm setting are you on?

This little guy slid down my playfield just a minute ago (probably rolled) and went into the trough. Stopped the game and fished it out. Any ideas where this goes? I'm guessing about 1/4 inch diameter, maybe 1/6 inch tall, 1/8 inch thick. It's hard plastic, not rubber. Doesn't appear to have any ball impacts on it...

I've looked all over and I can't seem to find any logical spot for it.

Thanks as always!

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That's a spacer for the plastic Trex ramp guard, your probably missing the screw there also... There's one on each side of the top of the posts under the clear plastic

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Whatever is by default on the latest code as I didn’t change any settings for sound.

I will investigate more yet I have owned around 45 pins and I have never seen or have had this issue. I am sure it’s not a big deal or a hard fix. I just found out late last night and haven’t gotten to get under the hood yet.

Not a big "topper" guy, but glad I picked up this TiltTopper...looks even better in person. Also impressed with the price ($245), when compared with Stern developed toppers.
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Totally agree. I love the materials in the topper and the slow pulsing effect of the white lights behind the T-rex as well as the flickering effect of the torches. Quality work.

You're absolutely right on both counts, THANK YOU VERY MUCH. Now to find that screw...

May I ask how long it took for you to get it? I've ordered mine about 7 weeks ago and I've made repeated attempts contacting the gentleman at tilttopper to get an update.

I also have one on order and am waiting. I just emailed them and they emailed me back right away saying the rest should be shipping out within the next 10 days...the email was just sent to me last Friday...

This got my Twipy vote for best topper of 2019. I had actually written in the Black Knight: Sword of Rage topper in the preliminary write in stage (as it is the most impressive topper I have ever seen)....but honestly I don't know why it made the ballot (as it hasn't been released yet...let alone by November 30th). It should have been weeded out, but wasn't. So I took it out of consideration when I was casting my ballot.

Some of the other toppers are nice, but seem to have their faults or be overpriced for what they are (or both). This one looks great and, as you said, at a fair price. That glowing acrylic edge really sets it off.

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No problem, sometimes lifting the playfield will let it come loose into the cabinet, other times those screws can hide in the strangest places. In the coinbox, in the crevice behind the shake motor, in the wiring harness, behind node boards and even in insert holes. If you can't find it, I wouldn't worry too much, just give the playfield a good once over making sure it's not lodged anywhere that will cause scratching or damage, then just get a new screw from home depot. It'll eventually turn up when you least suspect it

Took 2 months, which was fine with me. They've been very response to me via email...

Ebay.

Find a local collector that has a bunch of machines. I bet they have them rolling out of their ears. I know if you were local I'd give you as many as you need. When I change the balls in my games (about every 6-12 months depending on plays) I keep the old ones.

I have one coming. Looks great

Love my new topper. Got it 2 days ago.

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That topper looks like it says JURASSK PARK

Can anyone tell me exactly what's in the 'goody bag' stapled to the inside of my LE? I really don't want to remove the bag unless there's a compelling reason for doing so.

So I can knock $5,000 off the value of mine just to find out what unimaginable treasures are contained within the stapled goody bag?!!

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Keychains and some other bits and bobs. Leaving a goody bag stapled is pretty silly but to each his own

There’s a code to an amazing Super Duper Wizard Mode which you can’t access unless you remove the bag.