Hey, can anyone share their opening strategy? I tend to go for C and hit raptor gate early in the first ball during some of the ball save and then proceed from there working on chaos as much as trying to complete paddocks. Anyone have an opening strategy that’s different? Just curious if others focus on paddocks more without worrying about chaos or raptor and let that come more naturally. Or something else I’m not considering. Thanks!

My high score game, I ignored everything except the truck and T-Rex modes. Generally I mix it up though. I'm not good enough to try and stack things all up at once.

Good advice. I dropped my sling power as well to make the game less evil. Still super brutal, and requires precision to progress. I'll drop the rubber on the sling upper post. It is totally evil there and I'm happy to read I'm not the only one seeing that.

I also pulled of the tilt bob. Full nudge mode to try and survive.

Thanks, I'll take a look at that. I'm hesitant to adjust the settings of the T-Rex (without knowing EXACTLY what to adjust) since he does everything else right. Just comes up short when dropping in the ramp. Video of it here:

T-Rex feed ramp fail

I wouldn't worry too much about changing settings affecting things that already work. It looks like you just need to tweak the "right pos bias" a few clicks . Give it a try; you'll be glad you did.

Ps - that might not be the exact name of the setting but it's something like that.

Do you think that will change where it lines up inside the ramp when catching the ball though? Or is that setting only for the side to side movements that aren't related to the "feeding position" on the left ramp?

Nope that is the "center bias pos" and should be unchanged. I have had to tweak both of my bias settings independently to get full function (center was wrong, as was right), but now it's great for both.

Ok thanks, I'll try that when I get home. As well as making sure there is nothing binding any wiring in the back like another person suggested.

Yes, an important note.....Always check for binding wires and use the handle when putting the playfield back. I have myself, and others in my game Not doing this, and having issues.....

I don't think that's a handle, is it?

I am pretty sure it is, I love it. I hated having to reach up under the playfield.

Just got to museum mayham wow nice mode. For me the game plays better with superbands on the flippers, and 6.8 angle. Great game!

Hopefully I can get the machine dialed in and just focus on enjoying it soon. It's gone through the pinball refinery process... and there are life size Dino's to my left when playing it to add to the experience... just need the Trex to drop the ball properly on the ramp and the auto plunge up the 180 working!

20200118_102052 (resized).jpg

It's not really a handle, more of a cabinet spacing bumper for the equipment behind the vertical portion of the playfield. I don't grab this though as it's not really sturdy and you do see flex in the vertical piece to the rest of the playfield. I think over repeated use, you would get warping and worst case, the bumper would become loose or worse yet, break either from the vertical or cause the back of the playfield to separate from the horizontal. You can easily return the playfield to the normal position by pushing with constant pressure, not the jolt method. Not sure why the newer machines got away from the awesome, "no bump" system my Star Wars premium has with the longer cabinet sliders...seemed like a no brainer

Now that is one incredible game room theme!

Holy crap!!!! Now that is some JP love right there. Nicely done

Yep, superbands all day. Makes it way less of a brick fest and the flow is much improved

I'm curious if delts31 is planning to continue his solid work on a remixed audio package with the iconic callouts from the movie or if someone else is working on that as well. I see the work that folks are doing on other titles and definitely feel like this game needs a killer audio mix with all of the callouts we know and love. Cleland does killer work as well as I'm sure others in the pinside community have done for other games. What's the good word on this front?

Is that the Big Daddy peeking out from the JP ????

Lol... Good eyes! Yes, I have a life-size Big Daddy and little sister. If you look at my game room pics on my profile you'll probably enjoy the LOTR area as well.

OMG That is amazing! Nice collection and way to show it off

Agreed but part of me think this is a waste of valuable pinball space!

Lol... Space isn't an issue. I could probably fit another 20 pins. It's the money that runs out when doing this stuff! Honestly, more than anything, the thing that keeps me from buying more pins is the headache of troubleshooting them when stuff doesn't work. I have that awesome Hobbit, love playing it, but right now Smaug's mouth doesn't work and it pisses me off. Seems too complicated for me to fix it. So instead I just don't play it.

The latest Stern code releases aren't working in PBB at the moment, oga83 has found the fix but is waiting to finish spike 2 video replacement (!) before rolling out the update.

I'm still working on this with another pinsider. We recently obtained a new version of an amazing dialogue only mix of the JP original movie (better than the rip you can do from the 7.1 remastered discs). This is causing us to retrace our audio cutting and sweetening steps, but it's going to be well worth it. The introduction of the 0.97 new voice actor and other factors from that update have also slowed things a bit. I will post an update in this topic once I have something positive to share. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-jurassic-park-2-custom-code-project
We appreciate everyone's interest and patience thus far!

I feel like I came across a post for recommended EQ settings but asking b/c I can't find it. I have the PinSub kit from Pinnovators hooked up to an external Polk sub. I then I have the outputs RCA Y-cabled to feed an additional pair of active speakers that project sound from the rear corners of my tiny game room. In other words, I have the sound feeding all of the pin's speakers + my external ones + the sub.

I'm curious if anyone has a similar set up and if so, what you have toyed with as far as 10 settings, especially since 0.97 introduced a 10-band EQ option. In the release notes, this is mentioned:
- Added UTIL->VOL Adjustment "SELECT AUDIO FILTER". Values are:
"NONE", "HIGH/LOW SHELF", and "10 BAND EQ". Default value is "HIGH/LOW SHELF".
"NONE": No filtering will be performed on the audio output. Useful when using
the Line Out as input for an external device.

I'm not sure what exactly is meant by that last sentence ("NONE": No filtering will be performed on the audio output. Useful when using
the Line Out as input for an external device). It almost seems to imply you are bypassing the pin's speakers altogether and are using an outboard EQ + speakers instead. I am not using an external EQ. My speakers do have a simply 3-band EQ on them but I have other games routing to them as well via an audio switch so I keep those flat.

I’ll take a beer Please

So I tried it... Still doing the same thing as in the video I posted above. Calmly dropping the ball just short of the wireform, almost in an antagonistic way just to piss me off. That's with the right bias set all the way to 15 (0 is the default). So then I decided to enable the throw so I don't have to see the failed drop. To my surprise, even with the throw setting enabled... He still does the same exact "missing ramp wireform" drop. It's like this setting has no impact on the behavior whether it's set to yes or no. Can anyone confirm that toggling that setting back and forth actually changes the behavior? Throws the ball when "yes" and drops the ball on the wireform when "no"?

20200120_194728 (resized).jpg

Trex only throws in certain modes not all.

I have the same card to a polk sub and have it set to NONE

Maybe power cycling the game after changing settings will help? I know that's an issue for adjusting the crane on BM66.

Anyone else have a node board go down in their LE? Mine is on location in the tattoo parlor, no reported issues since I played it last week but this morning when It was turned on the shaker was constantly on and Node 1 not located.

Disconnected the shaker. Checked all connections. Power cycled the game. Nothing - the only thing working that is connected to node 1 are the service buttons which I assume is by design so you can run diagnostics even if node 1 goes down.

Did you try re-seating the ethernet cables at the main board?

The past few games my Dino has picked up the ball, gone through the theatrics and then forgotten to release it like he doesn’t know it’s in there. Before I investigate, any ideas?

Opto in the mouth.

Mate, think you need to teach her to share

Super newbie post again folks, sorry... I've got a set of the Titan bands and I'm ready to put them on but for the slings it appears as though there will need to be at the very least the removal of the wireforms from the raptor tower and the helipad to their respective inlanes to get access. Looks like removal might be easy because they hook around a bolt as opposed to being straight bolted into something but, and I can't stress this enough, I don't know what I'm doing.

Any tips? I'm only marginally afraid at the moment. I've managed to install a new shooter rod and the headphone adapter without f**king anything up so I guess thus far I'm 2/2, albeit with brain dead easy mods.

Thanks as always!

It's as simple as it looks. Easy and you'll be done in no time. Just remove the hex bolts that connect the end of the ramp to the sling plastic, then the screws on the sling plastic, remove the plastic, change the rubbers (make sure to pay attention to how the rubber sits in front of the leaf switches that make the slings activate) ...and when you put everything back together, make sure that before you fasten the hex bolts back tightly, that the ends of the wireforms are nicely aligned with the inlanes. Done.

Anyone knows if Stern gets new stock of the amber shooter rod ? it says sold out at the stern webshop.

Have you guys seen these?
There is a premium version with a sunset for whoever wants to match the cabinet art as well

jurassic-park-stern-premium-pinball-sideblades-inside-decals-sideboard-art-pin-blades (resized).jpg

jurassic-park-stern-pro-pinball-sideblades-inside-decals-sideboard-art-pin-blades (resized).jpg

I don’t think anyone likes them but me.... I have a set of the orange on my premium

Thank you, sir! Really appreciated.

I have posted a how-to for the fossilized caps in case anybody else wants to attempt.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-fossilized-amber-pop-bumpers#post-5427233

FOSSIL POPS (resized).png

Is there anyway someone would be able to upload a slow motion, top down, video of their T-Rex dropping the ball onto the left ramp wireform after being fed? Basically this is what it should do when the "throw" is disabled. As I posted in a previous video, mine drops the ball just short of the wireform. None of the adjustments within the settings (like trex right bias) fix it. I talked to Stern (again) today and they said that I might need to bend the wireform? Obviously I don't want to have to do that. If I could see a slow motion top down video, that shows where it's dropping it on the wireform properly, I could use that to compare against mine. I could see how the wireform is installed too, etc. Thanks in advance for any help on this!

Have you verified that the cable bundle behind the mech isn't interfering with movement? Unless I move the cables out of the way when I push the playfield back I get all sorts of issues.

Someone else suggested that here on pinside. I looked back there and didn't see any cable bundles that would make me think that's happening. Although I'm not exactly sure what cables to look for either. Are you referring to the cable bundle that's in the black casing? But when I looked everything "seemed" ok/normal.

Yes, I'm talking about the cable bundle inside the black plastic. One on each side if I remember right - they go from the playfield to the head. The left one (at least on mine) is directly behind the T-Rex and I have to push it aside to make sure it doesn't hit the back of the mech. Basically I can't have anything between the mech and the back of the cabinet or I have issues with the T-Rex