(Topic ID: 248218)

Welcome To The Jurassic Park Prem/LE Club!!


By EightBallTexas

8 months ago



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  • 4,993 posts
  • 436 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 40 minutes ago by EaglePin
  • Topic is favorited by 209 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

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There are 4993 posts in this topic. You are on page 77 of 100.
#3801 3 months ago
Quoted from wheels:

I'm having the opto issues on the T-Rex ramp and want to do the shim fix (fast shots skipping over), but still don't have a picture in my mind of how it should look. Anyone have a photo or 2 of how it should look? Thank you.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/69#post-5337568

#3802 3 months ago

Thanks. I took it apart already like this, but didn't have washers that fit. Wanted to try the cardboard shim fix. Is it the same idea? Put the cardboard where the washers should go? I was under the impression that the cardboard shim fix could be done from the top side of the playfield.

#3803 3 months ago
Quoted from wheels:

Thanks. I took it apart already like this, but didn't have washers that fit. Wanted to try the cardboard shim fix. Is it the same idea? Put the cardboard where the washers should go? I was under the impression that the cardboard shim fix could be done from the top side of the playfield.

Don’t have any experience with that one.

#3804 3 months ago
Quoted from wheels:

I'm having the opto issues on the T-Rex ramp and want to do the shim fix (fast shots skipping over),

Shim fix won't work on the t-rex opto. It's mounted from above, so any shim would push it even further down. Remove the two black spacers on top of the posts guarding the ramp entrance. That will lower the clear plastic roof over the ramp entrance and force the ball down into the beam.

Someone else blocked the bottom half of the beam with black electrical tape, but removing the spacers worked for me. Breaks the beam 100% now.

I still can't believe games went out the door like that.

#3805 3 months ago

Here's the T-Rex fix (for the exit opto) that I did. I haven't had a missed shot since. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/68#post-5334805

Here's the image from that post for quick reference

e4740ba6a7a7ed136c34a6e5e394216ab0f9c0c7 (resized).jpg
#3806 3 months ago

Maybe we can get a better, more accurately machined bracket to replace the current ones.

#3807 3 months ago
Quoted from yancy:

Shim fix won't work on the t-rex opto. It's mounted from above, so any shim would push it even further down. Remove the two black spacers on top of the posts guarding the ramp entrance. That will lower the clear plastic roof over the ramp entrance and force the ball down into the beam.
Someone else blocked the bottom half of the beam with black electrical tape, but removing the spacers worked for me. Breaks the beam 100% now.
I still can't believe games went out the door like that.

I'm going to try this right now. I purchased the #4 washers to try as well. I'll try this next if your suggestion doesn't work.

I'm not sure where the exit opto is; I'm just trying to get the T-Rex to catch the hard shots.

Thank you to everyone for all your suggestions.

This game is awesome!

#3808 3 months ago
Quoted from wheels:

I'm going to try this right now. I purchased the #4 washers to try as well. I'll try this next if your suggestion doesn't work.
I'm not sure where the exit opto is; I'm just trying to get the T-Rex to catch the hard shots.
Thank you to everyone for all your suggestions.
This game is awesome!

The exit opto is mounted to the rear most part of the T-Rex ramp, (behind the backboard) it's mounted to the plastic so a machined mount isn't much of an option. You can see if it's parallel to the side of the ramp by pulling the pf to the end of the service rails and lifting on the rear handle. Mine wasn't as exaggerated as the diagram but it was obviously not parallel.

#3809 3 months ago
Quoted from Jahkub:

The exit opto is mounted to the rear most part of the T-Rex ramp, (behind the backboard) it's mounted to the plastic so a machined mount isn't much of an option. You can see if it's parallel to the side of the ramp by pulling the pf to the end of the service rails and lifting on the rear handle. Mine wasn't as exaggerated as the diagram but it was obviously not parallel.

Got it. Thanks. Going to try the removal of spacers for the T-Rex fix now.

#3810 3 months ago
Quoted from yancy:

Shim fix won't work on the t-rex opto. It's mounted from above, so any shim would push it even further down. Remove the two black spacers on top of the posts guarding the ramp entrance. That will lower the clear plastic roof over the ramp entrance and force the ball down into the beam.
Someone else blocked the bottom half of the beam with black electrical tape, but removing the spacers worked for me. Breaks the beam 100% now.
I still can't believe games went out the door like that.

I don't believe mine has the spacers on top of the ramp entrance. I think I read the newer builds - which I have - don't have those? Anyway, it's not obvious to me as to how to raise the beam since it's top-mounted, so, for now anyway, I did the cheap NYE fix with tape on the right opto. I kept adjusting the tape using the diagnostic test until it seemed right. All shots now seem to be registering. Thanks, everyone.

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#3811 3 months ago

Yesterday, my left ramp/trex opto suddenly stopped working on my JP premium. On closer inspection I think found the problem. Part of the post on the right side of the entrance to the ramp is missing leaving the opto vulnerable to bashing. I don’t think it was ever there since there are no “spare parts’ floating around the playfield or cabinet. I have contacted Stern and they are sending parts.

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#3812 3 months ago

I don’t see what you mean about the opto but what is that strange looking grease on your rail?

Quoted from Nameim:

Yesterday, my left ramp/trex opto suddenly stopped working on my JP premium. On closer inspection I think found the problem. Part of the post on the right side of the entrance to the ramp is missing leaving the opto vulnerable to bashing. I don’t think it was ever there since there are no “spare parts’ floating around the playfield or cabinet. I have contacted Stern and they are sending parts.

#3813 3 months ago
Quoted from Nameim:

Yesterday, my left ramp/trex opto suddenly stopped working on my JP premium. On closer inspection I think found the problem. Part of the post on the right side of the entrance to the ramp is missing leaving the opto vulnerable to bashing.

You're half right. The missing screw on top of that post allowed the clear plastic roof to rise, and the ball is catching just enough air going up the ramp to jump the bottom of the opto beam. Same screw came loose on mine, with the same result. Tightened it down and it's back to 100% registering.

While you're in there, I'd remove the black plastic spacers on top of those posts. One on the right already fell off and is either hiding on the playfield or slid down into the trough and fell into the cabinet. Missing screw is somewhere in the game too.

#3814 3 months ago
Quoted from wheels:

I don't believe mine has the spacers on top of the ramp entrance. I think I read the newer builds - which I have - don't have those? Anyway, it's not obvious to me as to how to raise the beam since it's top-mounted, so, for now anyway, I did the cheap NYE fix with tape on the right opto. I kept adjusting the tape using the diagnostic test until it seemed right. All shots now seem to be registering. Thanks, everyone.[quoted image]

Mine didn’t have the spacers either. Used the tape fix as well. I’ll plan a day to dig into all the optos when I get the time and fix it permanently.

#3815 3 months ago
Quoted from yancy:

You're half right. The missing screw on top of that post allowed the clear plastic roof to rise, and the ball is catching just enough air going up the ramp to jump the bottom of the opto beam. Same screw came loose on mine, with the same result. Tightened it down and it's back to 100% registering.
While you're in there, I'd remove the black plastic spacers on top of those posts. One on the right already fell off and is either hiding on the playfield or slid down into the trough and fell into the cabinet. Missing screw is somewhere in the game too.

Thanks. I don’t think that’s quite what’s happened here. The opto is definitely dead. There is no response using the coil test diagnostic. I tested the other optos and they are all working. There is about a half inch of air between the missing part of the post and the clear plastic roof.

#3816 3 months ago

That same screw and spacer came out on mine as well. Tightened it down and all is good on my end.

#3817 3 months ago
Quoted from heyitsjoebob:

That same screw and spacer came out on mine as well. Tightened it down and all is good on my end.

Thanks! I found the spacer but so far no screw. I'm still looking.

#3818 3 months ago
Quoted from Nameim:

Yesterday, my left ramp/trex opto suddenly stopped working on my JP premium. On closer inspection I think found the problem. Part of the post on the right side of the entrance to the ramp is missing leaving the opto vulnerable to bashing. I don’t think it was ever there since there are no “spare parts’ floating around the playfield or cabinet. I have contacted Stern and they are sending parts.[quoted image][quoted image]

GET RID OF THE STOCK BLACK STERN RUBBERS AND POST SLEEVES. See that black crud on your guide? That's from the rubbers and post sleeves. It's all over your balls and playfield most likely. Swap them out and clean everything. The stock black rubbers/post sleeves are crap

#3819 3 months ago
Quoted from Scribbles:

GET RID OF THE STOCK BLACK STERN RUBBERS AND POST SLEEVES. See that black crud on your guide? That's from the rubbers and post sleeves. It's all over your balls and playfield most likely. Swap them out and clean everything. The stock black rubbers/post sleeves are crap

What do you recommend? Titans?

#3820 3 months ago
Quoted from Nameim:

What do you recommend? Titans?

All day every day....first thing I do to ANY pin that enters my house is put on Titan rings

#3821 3 months ago
Quoted from heyitsjoebob:

That same screw and spacer came out on mine as well. Tightened it down and all is good on my end.

The same screw and spacer came out of mine also. One day the screw and spacer were on my play field. Glad I noticed them and put them back.

#3822 3 months ago

I wiped my Stern Black rubbers when I received my game.
Figured Id get a bunch of games in, before I tore into the playfield.

Well, plenty of black on the cloth after the first wipe on a brand new game, but when I swapped out to Titan Clear this week, I was amazed how several rubbers were powdery with black.

The new flipper rubbers after 20 games looked like 200,
with black tips.

Glad I caught this early.

#3823 3 months ago
Quoted from AUKraut:

All day every day....first thing I do to ANY pin that enters my house is put on Titan rings

Titan rings are fine but I really hate the way Titan flipper rubbers shoot - I keep those standard.

#3824 3 months ago

Does anyone know the LE part number for the bracket that the 5 1/4" speaker bolts to is, I want to install the 5 1/4" speakers to a few of my other machines.
The photo below is the bracket/plate I am referring to.

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#3825 3 months ago

Hate to bring up an old & aggravating topic, but has anyone heard anything about when Stern Jurassic Park shooter rods might be available again?

#3826 3 months ago

I just ordered a Modfather amber shooter instead and I am very happy with it.

#3827 3 months ago

I noticed my right orbit ball guide was slightly out of alignment with the top right flipper (which caused the ball to "hop"). This definitely made the right flipper shots more challenging Moving the guide out to align with the flipper was easy and already feels much better...hopefully the shots will be less frustrating now!

#3828 3 months ago
Quoted from snaroff:

I noticed my right orbit ball guide was slightly out of alignment with the top right flipper (which caused the ball to "hop"). This definitely made the right flipper shots more challenging Moving the guide out to align with the flipper was easy and already feels much better...hopefully the shots will be less frustrating now!

Mine comes off the wire form and bounces from side to side and way out of reach of the upper flipper. Impossible to hit. Is this not the norm for others?

#3829 3 months ago
Quoted from Green-Machine:

Mine comes off the wire form and bounces from side to side and way out of reach of the upper flipper. Impossible to hit. Is this not the norm for others?

You mean when it’s coming off the pteranodon ramp? It should come off that wire form and immediately hug the ball guide and then transition smoothly onto the flipper.

#3830 3 months ago
Quoted from Green-Machine:

Mine comes off the wire form and bounces from side to side and way out of reach of the upper flipper. Impossible to hit. Is this not the norm for others?

Loosen the metal post screw that holds the helix ramp (located to the left of the right metal ramp). Experiment with different positions for the helix bracket until you get a smooth transition off the wire form...you should be getting a smooth roll off from the ramp to the playfield the majority of the time.

#3831 3 months ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

You mean when it’s coming off the pteranodon ramp? It should come off that wire form and immediately hug the ball guide and then transition smoothly onto the flipper.

Yes the pteranodon ramp.

Quoted from fooflighter:

Loosen the metal post screw that holds the helix ramp (located to the left of the right metal ramp). Experiment with different positions for the helix bracket until you get a smooth transition off the wire form...you should be getting a smooth roll off from the ramp to the playfield the majority of the time.

I’ll try that! The balls come off crazy 90%

#3832 3 months ago

I’ll try a slo-mo video tonight. Maybe then I can see exactly how it’s coming off the wire form. Thanks guys! I was curious but not sure if that kind of reaction was normal

#3833 3 months ago
Quoted from Green-Machine:

I’ll try a slo-mo video tonight. Maybe then I can see exactly how it’s coming off the wire form. Thanks guys! I was curious but not sure if that kind of reaction was normal

Something else I forgot to mention..Another thing to consider: is the table 7.0 deg front to back and also level left to right both at the top and bottom of the playfield (measured on the playfield and not the glass)...JP is extremely sensitive to shot geometry I've found and I would start there and then move to the wireform adjustment

Mine was doing that initially, bouncing back and forth between the wire guide and ball guide...for me just loosening the screw and pressing down lightly on the wireform exit then retightening was all the adjustment i needed...your mileage may vary

The slow motion vid is a good idea

#3834 3 months ago

Thanks. Yes I am at 7.0° and I am also level from side to side.

#3835 3 months ago

Today is Rate your Stern Jurassic Park pinball Day!

#3836 3 months ago
Quoted from Lounge:

Titan rings are fine but I really hate the way Titan flipper rubbers shoot - I keep those standard.

If you do not clean the Titan flipper rubbers they will play like rubber. The thin ones (Titan Flipper bands) are like black rubber and the thick ones (Titan Flipper bands) are like red bouncy rubber.

#3837 3 months ago
Quoted from Scribbles:

GET RID OF THE STOCK BLACK STERN RUBBERS AND POST SLEEVES. See that black crud on your guide? That's from the rubbers and post sleeves. It's all over your balls and playfield most likely. Swap them out and clean everything. The stock black rubbers/post sleeves are crap

My JJP POTC has zero black rubber (comes that way from the factory) and there is still plenty of black on the flippers. Either way I think you're going to need regular cleaning.

#3838 3 months ago
Quoted from Scribbles:

GET RID OF THE STOCK BLACK STERN RUBBERS AND POST SLEEVES.

For those of you that replaced the rubbers, what color(s) did you go with?

#3839 3 months ago
Quoted from Insanity199:

For those of you that replaced the rubbers, what color(s) did you go with?

I went with the green post sleeves and orange bands.
If you click the gallery link on this thread and the regular JP one, you can see a bunch pictures of what people have done.

#3840 3 months ago

Super easy mod. Someone else posted something like this earlier and i wanted to try it. Got a pterodactyl off amazon, drilled a hole in the chest, krazy glue a short strip of wire and boom.

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#3841 3 months ago
Quoted from bbulkley:

My JJP POTC has zero black rubber (comes that way from the factory) and there is still plenty of black on the flippers. Either way I think you're going to need regular cleaning.

No disagreement there. However, the black rubbers Stern uses leaves this almost greasy, black, smudgy crap everywhere. On the balls, on the guides, on the rails, etc. Not the regular dust buildup.

#3842 3 months ago

Can someone please tell me if there is a backing nut for this screw? I can't tighten it and also can't find a missing nut.

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#3843 3 months ago

Someone have a idea to change the helicopter rotor blades ?
maybe a cover or a total exchange ?

They are so ugly..

#3844 3 months ago
Quoted from hornisse69:

Someone have a idea to change the helicopter rotor blades ?
maybe a cover or a total exchange ?
They are so ugly..

Die cast metal realistic helicopter from Amazon. Custom bracket by me. No, the blades do not spin, but who cares. I hated the stock helicopter. My machine is a pro btw.

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#3845 3 months ago

You need the blades to spin on the Prem/LE. The blades are an optical switch that has game play implications.

Quoted from Scribbles:

No, the blades do not spin, but who cares. I hated the stock helicopter. My machine is a pro btw.

#3846 3 months ago
Quoted from jalpert:

You need the blades to spin on the Prem/LE. The blades are an optical switch that has game play implications.

The switch is still there and still functional. It's a pressure switch on the pro, not optical, but as long as the switch is functioning who needs the blades to spin? Unless of course the spinning blades are what is interrupting the optic beam.

#3847 3 months ago
Quoted from Scribbles:

The switch is still there and still functional. It's a pressure switch on the pro, not optical, but as long as the switch is functioning who needs the blades to spin? Unless of course the spinning blades are what is interrupting the optic beam.

Since the blades act like a full fledged spinner on the Premium/LE maybe Keith put some code in there to take advantage of how many spins it has?? With some of the rules innovations he's done on IMDN and now on JP it wouldn't surprise me one bit.....

#3848 3 months ago
Quoted from Hadley:

Can someone please tell me if there is a backing nut for this screw? I can't tighten it and also can't find a missing nut.

No backing nut, threads just bite into the black opto housing. Sounds like yours might be stripped, which is not surprising since it's plastic.

#3849 3 months ago
Quoted from yancy:

No backing nut, threads just bite into the black opto housing. Sounds like yours might be stripped, which is not surprising since it's plastic.

Mine isn't stripped, but I've had it come out. Elvira has the same kind of thing on the right ramp too...I'm annoyed that they didn't put a backing nut on there. I'll probably do it at some point if they keep coming loose.

#3850 3 months ago

How does the raptor pen work in multiplayer games? It doesn't seem like you can steal a locked ball, but I'm also not clear in how you'd lock a ball if another player has already done so.

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