(Topic ID: 248218)

Welcome To The Jurassic Park Prem/LE Club!!


By EightBallTexas

1 year ago



Topic Stats

  • 6,531 posts
  • 557 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 hours ago by Manny65
  • Topic is favorited by 263 Pinsiders

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Topic poll

“What is the first MOD you will buy??”

  • Toppers 59 votes
    46%
  • New Jeep 51 votes
    40%
  • Plastic Characters 18 votes
    14%

(128 votes)

This poll has been closed.

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Topic index (key posts)

12 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 6531 posts in this topic. You are on page 76 of 131.
#3751 1 year ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

It tells you to go into the vertical motor test, press start to open the jaw, then it jumps right into physically moving the mech and tightening nuts.
The diagram says not to remove nuts, so I'm guessing you loosen the 4 nuts, and after you get the jaw open, you are just adjusting the height of it by hand and then tightening it back up?
Is this done behind the backboard, and can I be done by just pulling the pf out onto the service rails?
Thanks.

Yes, and yes. This is how I did it to the tune of about a 90% successful grab rate.

#3752 1 year ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

So you can't change the vertical alignment in settings like you can change the horizontal bias?
Also, the instructions at the end for the vertical adjustment aren't very clear. It tells you to go into the vertical motor test, press start to open the jaw, then it jumps right into physically moving the mech and tightening nuts.
The diagram says not to remove nuts, so I'm guessing you loosen the 4 nuts, and after you get the jaw open, you are just adjusting the height of it by hand and then tightening it back up?
Is this done behind the backboard, and can I be done by just pulling the pf out onto the service rails?
Thanks.

Yes there are 4 nuts or screws you have to loosen. Then slide the mechanism up or down to desired position. Pretty easy actually once you find the screws/nuts(can’t recall screws vs nuts)

#3753 1 year ago
Quoted from Lounge:

Yes, and yes. This is how I did it to the tune of about a 90% successful grab rate.

Quoted from estrader:

Yes there are 4 nuts or screws you have to loosen. Then slide the mechanism up or down to desired position. Pretty easy actually once you find the screws/nuts(can’t recall screws vs nuts)

Were you able to do this by just pulling the game out onto the service rails?

And are the nuts not easy to find? Looks like they're right out in the open.

#3754 1 year ago

I did not like how the rules card mounted to the apron so I ordered some magnets with adhesive backing and attached the card to it. Now the card lays flat and covers most of the cut outs.

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#3755 1 year ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Were you able to do this by just pulling the game out onto the service rails?
And are the nuts not easy to find? Looks like they're right out in the open.

Yes, you can do it by just pulling it out onto the service rails. If I remember correctly one of the nuts isn't visible and it's kind of a blind shot to get the nut driver onto it, but the nuts are in a symmetrical rectangle so you can get an educated guess on where to go after it based on the position of the others. I think it was the lower right nut (from the front as you're facing the back box) that was out of sight. Also, I think the T-Rex jaw closes after a few seconds so it may take a few tries setting the vertical position, opening the jaw, and tweaking the vertical position again, and lowering the jaw again to get it where you want it. There isn't much room in the screw holes to make a big change to the position of the mount, but it only took a very slight adjustment to make a difference.

#3756 1 year ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Were you able to do this by just pulling the game out onto the service rails?
And are the nuts not easy to find? Looks like they're right out in the open.

One other thing: Again if I'm remembering right I think the best way to adjust the nuts is with the T-Rex in the center position of the vertical test, not with it's jaw lowered. So check the jaw position, return the T-Rex to the middle position of the vertical test in software, adjust the nuts, lower the jaw & check it, then repeat as needed. I remember not being able to adjust the mount position very much if the T-Rex was in the upper or lower position of the vertical test.

#3757 1 year ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

One other thing: Again if I'm remembering right I think the best way to adjust the nuts is with the T-Rex in the center position of the vertical test, not with it's jaw lowered. So check the jaw position, return the T-Rex to the middle position of the vertical test in software, adjust the nuts, lower the jaw & check it, then repeat as needed. I remember not being able to adjust the mount position very much if the T-Rex was in the upper or lower position of the vertical test.

But wouldn't the lower position allow you to adjust so it is lightly touching the ramp once the jaw opens?

In the middle position, how could you tell how closely it is contacting the ramp?

#3758 1 year ago

Anyone have advice on lighting up the raptor + tower area better? It's really dark in that general vicinity. I think purpose of the light mounted behind the helipad sign is to shine across the field to do so but doesn't do a great job. It's almost like light needs to be coming from a different direction. I'm not really looking to buy a pinstadium kit but perhaps someone knows of a good mini LED lamp to mount over there somewhere? I have the tower mod from mezel but the lights they used are super dim and orange which is cool (and I think expected?) but they don't provide additional light per se. Appreciate any tips!

#3759 1 year ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Were you able to do this by just pulling the game out onto the service rails?
And are the nuts not easy to find? Looks like they're right out in the open.

Yes, and yes... if you just take a look you’ll see it isn’t some crazy operation.

#3760 1 year ago
Quoted from timlah79:

Anyone have advice on lighting up the raptor + tower area better? It's really dark in that general vicinity. I think purpose of the light mounted behind the helipad sign is to shine across the field to do so but doesn't do a great job. It's almost like light needs to be coming from a different direction. I'm not really looking to buy a pinstadium kit but perhaps someone knows of a good mini LED lamp to mount over there somewhere? I have the tower mod from mezel but the lights they used are super dim and orange which is cool (and I think expected?) but they don't provide additional light per se. Appreciate any tips!

First, Someone has mentioned that too much added voltage to a node board, can damage it.
I, Hover in adding 1 or 2 lights, have not had an issue. So this is my opinion.
Grab a 44/47 metal base Warm White Frosted Matrix Bulb with splitter from Comet.
Decide where you want it to be, add wire and spotlight, Thats it.

A different route, one Ill get go shortly is using the service plug in back box, with a 12v Adapter, to some
micro spots.

#3761 1 year ago
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:

I wanted to share a Topper I started coordinated work on.
Its 7 or 8 layers deep of thick plastic, laser cut.
The Base you see, is one I put together, and the production would likely be a flatter piece,
with the supports not showing above the sign lettering. Secures with Nano Tape.
What do you think? Any customers as I shoot this to be a $99 Price?
(the Lighting is a Comet Matrix bulb with splitter, in Corner GI, Wire, and a 6 SMD Pad.
Pne could also plug in a remote RGB in the Backbox) I dont believe I can or wish to supply, but Id share info)
I also have left over from messing with Mods, 5 Licence JP Miniature Dinos.
They have a Base that glows green, and I put 1 above control room flasher, and another on the upper right.
There is also 2-5 Resin Amber Pieces. 2 Tear Drop, they can go on Control room, but I found them a bit too big, or as they are drilled at the top, you could enlarge and make a keychain! These are $15 shipped.
There are 3 Flat Resin Amber. 1 Is very thick....Call that a Paperweight, and 2 thinner.
1 I tapped and drilled in an effort to place at the entrance to the spiral ramp.That one is off a little, but with 2 l brackets, it should mount.the other is undrilled. Each are $20 shipped.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Sending PM

#3762 1 year ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

But wouldn't the lower position allow you to adjust so it is lightly touching the ramp once the jaw opens?
In the middle position, how could you tell how closely it is contacting the ramp?

My recollection was that, for some reason, when the T-Rex was in the top or lower position of the test the bracket didn't move as much for an adjustment as it did when the T-Rex was in the middle position. I might be wrong, but I remember trying to adjust with the T-Rex in the lower position, and when I loosened the nuts to adjust it the bracket didn't move much. Then when I tried to adjust with the T-Rex in the middle position and loosened the nuts the bracket moved much more for an adjustment. Again, I don't know why that would be the case and I could be remembering wrong. I know I ended up adjusting with T-Rex in the middle position, re-tightened the nuts, used the test to lower it again and check it out, and then raised it back up to the middle position to adjust again a couple times before I got it set at a spot where the jaw was touching the ramp but wasn't so far down it would get stuck open. It might work other ways also. That's just how I did it. It took some trial and error.

#3763 1 year ago
Quoted from Jimmyhonda:

Hello, joining the Premium club very soon. Just awaiting shipment delivery. I’ve read some of the recent posts, but not all of them. Anything out of the box I should be aware of that needs adjustment? Thank you!

Best to check both JP2 owner threads for key posts. Beyond updating the software if needed (0.96 is current as of 12/27), what I can think of off the top of my head to watch for:

  • Playfield clear coat pooling/chipping near posts (Less likely to be an issue now)
  • T-Rex misalignment
  • Raptor toy getting stuck
  • Pop-up post alignment (i.e. ensuring the top of the lowered post is level with playfield surface)
  • Dropping the shooting lane (not auto-launch) kicker strength to minimum
  • Tightening the post in front of the upper flipper
  • Broken coil stops
  • Raising the gate near the spinner to help prevent hangups at the top of the orbit
  • Metal rail adjustments on the orbit
  • Raising the left fork of the shooting lane ramp with washers or a nut to reduce bricking on the half pipe
  • Swapping the plunger spring from green to orange
  • Disabling the kicker sounds to avoid suddenly loud garbled screech noise at ball or game end
  • Raising/shimming opto mounting brackets for the orbit and ramps to better detect fast moving and airborne balls.
#3764 1 year ago
Quoted from GamerRick:

So I had the whole family over for a Christmas party today. They were loving my game room. JP was the top favorite of the day. My cousin’s best friend couldn’t stop playing Munsters. Everyone also loved Elvira. My Uncle looks like he’s straight out of The Sopranos but he’s actually a teddy bear. True fun.
[quoted image][quoted image]

You have two Munsters?

#3765 1 year ago
Quoted from Caviel:

Best to check both JP2 owner threads for key posts. Beyond updating the software if needed (0.96 is current as of 12/27), what I can think of off the top of my head to watch for:

Playfield clear coat pooling/chipping near posts (Less likely to be an issue now)
T-Rex misalignment
Raptor toy getting stuck
Pop-up post alignment (i.e. ensuring the top of the lowered post is level with playfield surface)
Dropping the shooting lane (not auto-launch) kicker strength to minimum
Tightening the post in front of the upper flipper
Broken coil stops
Raising the gate near the spinner to help prevent hangups at the top of the orbit
Metal rail adjustments on the orbit
Raising the left fork of the shooting lane ramp with washers or a nut to reduce bricking on the half pipe
Swapping the plunger spring from green to orange
Disabling the kicker sounds to avoid suddenly loud garbled screech noise at ball or game end
Raising/shimming opto mounting brackets for the orbit and ramps to better detect fast moving and airborne balls.

Raptor gate getting stuck (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/53#post-5300605).

#3766 1 year ago
Quoted from adamross:

You have two Munsters?

I believe he has hung a munsters translite on the back of the head of his elvira. Just to cover up the flat black void I assume. Since it's not pushed against a wall

#3767 1 year ago
Quoted from cooked71:

Early Xmas presy.....[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Congrats mate, you must have got one of the last in Aus.
I was lucky enough for two people to drop out in front of me so I had a chance to snag an LE.
Loving this game so far...

#3768 1 year ago
Quoted from Caviel:

Best to check both JP2 owner threads for key posts. Beyond updating the software if needed (0.96 is current as of 12/27), what I can think of off the top of my head to watch for:

Playfield clear coat pooling/chipping near posts (Less likely to be an issue now)
T-Rex misalignment
Raptor toy getting stuck
Pop-up post alignment (i.e. ensuring the top of the lowered post is level with playfield surface)
Dropping the shooting lane (not auto-launch) kicker strength to minimum
Tightening the post in front of the upper flipper
Broken coil stops
Raising the gate near the spinner to help prevent hangups at the top of the orbit
Metal rail adjustments on the orbit
Raising the left fork of the shooting lane ramp with washers or a nut to reduce bricking on the half pipe
Swapping the plunger spring from green to orange
Disabling the kicker sounds to avoid suddenly loud garbled screech noise at ball or game end
Raising/shimming opto mounting brackets for the orbit and ramps to better detect fast moving and airborne balls.

Could someone go into a bit more detail on how to “raise the gate near the spinner”? I couldn’t find anything “adjustable” such as a screw....any clarification would be appreciated as I’m frequently getting hung up in that spot.

#3769 1 year ago
Quoted from Jdfitzy-in-Aus:

Congrats mate, you must have got one of the last in Aus.
I was lucky enough for two people to drop out in front of me so I had a chance to snag an LE.
Loving this game so far...

How good is it! I’ve had it all along, just didn’t have a chance to open it until Xmas eve. Was thinking of selling it, but so happy I didn’t. I’m not aware of any left NIB, unless someone is sitting on one.

#3770 1 year ago

One on eBay that is a flipper special but you’ve got a keeper. I can’t think of a better game for the home or on location than this...

#3771 1 year ago

Just had look on eBay couldn't see it

#3773 1 year ago

Thanks really appreciated.

#3774 1 year ago

Just got my NIB Premium last night and set her up...excited to be part of the club! After careful inspection of the playfield, I'm happy to say that I don't see any playfield issues like the clear pooling or chilling which is great news. A few things do require adjustment and I've read through the two threads:

1) About 20% of the shooter lane shots to the helipad halfpipe ramp are bricking (I use the autolauncher). Found the thread that suggests a small nut or washer for underneath the left fork at the entrance and will try that

2) One blade of the helicopter spinner lightly clips the helipad metal return and I'm assuming that is not supposed to be happening. I need to figure out how to move the spinner slightly left (away from the metal return). Would appreciate suggestions on how to do this

3) Left flipper was loose but already took care of that

#3775 1 year ago

Anyone have suggestions on tightening the posts which have screws covered by the bracket or whatever which holds the coil? I'd prefer to not have to unscrew something directly screwed into the playfield on a regular basis. I suppose there might be some super tiny pliers out there to squeeze into the tiny space and grab the nut while turning the screw from above the playfield.

#3776 1 year ago
Quoted from Braindance:

Anyone have suggestions on tightening the posts which have screws covered by the bracket or whatever which holds the coil? I'd prefer to not have to unscrew something directly screwed into the playfield on a regular basis. I suppose there might be some super tiny pliers out there to squeeze into the tiny space and grab the nut while turning the screw from above the playfield.

I’m having the same issue. Tried using a screw driver to hold the nut, but wasn’t successful. Maybe I need better needle nose pliers.

#3777 1 year ago

Just made the following 3-way combo: Right orbit -> left loop -> Raptor tower.

Really amazing feel/flow...all very tough shots. Hard to repeat

Considering the difficulty/coolness of this combo, kind of surprised it isn't one of the recognized "DNA Combos".

Maybe the team will add it?

#3778 1 year ago
Quoted from snaroff:

Considering the difficulty/coolness of this combo, kind of surprised it isn't one of the recognized "DNA Combos".

There’s a few combos that seem like perfect DNA combos - but this game has so many unique combos maybe they felt they had to limit it.

#3779 1 year ago
Quoted from SkillShot:

I’m having the same issue. Tried using a screw driver to hold the nut, but wasn’t successful. Maybe I need better needle nose pliers.

Long needle nose locking pliers or vice grips...

Game is rocking the house!

#3780 1 year ago
Quoted from Braindance:

Anyone have suggestions on tightening the posts which have screws covered by the bracket or whatever which holds the coil? I'd prefer to not have to unscrew something directly screwed into the playfield on a regular basis. I suppose there might be some super tiny pliers out there to squeeze into the tiny space and grab the nut while turning the screw from above the playfield.

Quoted from SkillShot:

I’m having the same issue. Tried using a screw driver to hold the nut, but wasn’t successful. Maybe I need better needle nose pliers.

A real thin open end wrench will fit under the flipper base plate to hold the locknut there while you tighten the screw from above the playfield.

#3781 1 year ago
Quoted from per3per3:

2) One blade of the helicopter spinner lightly clips the helipad metal return and I'm assuming that is not supposed to be happening. I need to figure out how to move the spinner slightly left (away from the metal return). Would appreciate suggestions on how to do this

Bend the return down a bit. Don't mess with the spinner. Mine was the same way.

Rob

#3782 1 year ago

Museum Mayhem is awesome!

SPOILER ALERT!

#3783 1 year ago
Quoted from adamross:

You have two Munsters?

No. My distributor gave me the banner for being a good client and I hung it on the back of Elvira. I like the Elvira side art better than all my other pins so I put that one exposed on the side. Only one of them could be exposed on the side except my flagship pin JJ POTC LE and Star Wars based on my layout. Star Wars is in an area that no one sees the side. Like Elvira where she is.

#3784 1 year ago
Quoted from AUKraut:

A real thin open end wrench will fit under the flipper base plate to hold the locknut there while you tighten the screw from above the playfield.

This is a good idea, thank you.

#3785 1 year ago

Finally got the chance to play this game at a few locations over the past couple days while on vaca in a town that caters to pinball, and I must say, this game is really amazing. Almost exhausting with the amount of shots and action, but in a great way....I lost ALL of my quarters on this game!!! Hahaha....it just kept me coming back!
Two big thumbs up!!!

#3786 1 year ago

Pretty sure THIS screw came out of my trex cause now its having difficulty catching the ball in its mouth. Anyone been through this?

15776700012304247660167017762007 (resized).jpg
#3787 1 year ago
Quoted from Digduglus:

Pretty sure THIS screw came out of my trex cause now its having difficulty catching the ball in its mouth. Anyone been through this?[quoted image]

I thought the trex screws were black. It looks like a screw to the left of the trex that holds some of the plastics in place.

#3788 1 year ago
Quoted from Digduglus:

Pretty sure THIS screw came out of my trex cause now its having difficulty catching the ball in its mouth. Anyone been through this?[quoted image]

Check the ramp and to plastics. My T-Rex jaw was hitting the ramp so hard it was loosening screws!

I've had to adjust the vertical alignment of my T-Rex.

#3789 1 year ago
Quoted from Digduglus:

Pretty sure THIS screw came out of my trex cause now its having difficulty catching the ball in its mouth. Anyone been through this?[quoted image]

Hmmm was just about to post this...
Found that all 3 of the black screws had worked themselves out and this other random screw (but not like In a “friends with benefits” kind of way...) were on the bottom of the cabinet.
So Rexy’s jaw just fell off when I checked it.
I’m guessing that due to the angle there is no way to reattach it other than taking the mech off the backboard?

CBDBD556-DB9F-48EE-A4B2-A7950676942A (resized).jpeg
#3790 1 year ago
Quoted from Jdfitzy-in-Aus:

Hmmm was just about to post this...
Found that all 3 of the black screws had worked themselves out and this other random screw (but not like In a “friends with benefits” kind of way...) were on the bottom of the cabinet.
So Rexy’s jaw just fell off when I checked it.
I’m guessing that due to the angle there is no way to reattach it other than taking the mech off the backboard?[quoted image]

Did you just use Locktite JD?

#3791 1 year ago
Quoted from cooked71:

Did you just use Locktite JD?

Waiting on “distro” to email me back.
If the fix is taking the mech off the backboard then that’s a job for them not me.

#3792 1 year ago
Quoted from Jdfitzy-in-Aus:

Waiting on “distro” to email me back.
If the fix is taking the mech off the backboard then that’s a job for them not me.

Pull out the machine on the service rails. There are four screws you loosen in order to be able to move the jaw so you can get the screws back in. Pretty easy. I believe if you look in the key post someone described it better then me.

#3793 1 year ago
Quoted from cooked71:

Did you just use Locktite JD?

I would tend to think some "blue" locktite wouldn't be a bad idea for this.

#3794 1 year ago
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:

I wanted to share a Topper I started coordinated work on.

What do you think? Any customers as I shoot this to be a $99 Price?

Double the price and get paid for your time. Topper guys are crazy; they'll pay it. $200 is "cheap."

#3795 1 year ago
Quoted from yancy:

Double the price and get paid for your time. Topper guys are crazy; they'll pay it. $200 is "cheap."

Sadly the few email replies I had were the kind that reminded me that I am an old cranky bastard!
Im pleased with my results, and game mods I made, but unsure about wanting to be in the business world again.

11
#3796 1 year ago

Happy New Year from Calgary! 268 checking in...
I m blessed to own a few of the greatest pins ever made, namely MMRLE and STLE. Ive also played most of the top 25. The majority of my challenges are thankfully of the first world variety. I`ve had this machine for a couple months, but have limited play time experience. Currently running V.96 (started on .91). Had the usual loose post issues, including the one immediately below the upper flipper (remedied with a low profile wrench). Had a clear coat issue around one post; applied new clear coat around it, complements of Stern. That post does not look pristine, but resides in a low impact area and hopefully it will now preserve the structural integrity of the surrounding clear coat. That said, this game is a serious contender for GOAT (Greatest Of All Time) status. It, along with MMRLE and STLE, will never leave my collection. Happy flipping everyone, and all the best in 2020!

JPLE 2 (resized).JPGJPLE 6 (resized).JPGJPLE_Main (resized).png
#3797 1 year ago
Quoted from AUKraut:

A real thin open end wrench will fit under the flipper base plate to hold the locknut there while you tighten the screw from above the playfield.

I bought an ignition wrench set. Works perfectly. Craftsman has a set. Used sets are all over Ebay.

#3798 1 year ago

Could someone please check something on their game for me?

To change out the rubbers, I removed and reinstalled a number of parts. The plastic behind the control tower doesn't seem quite right. The downslope makes sense to avoid a ball trap, but the screw towards the back bottoms out in the standoff so you can't actually screw it down entirely. This leads to the back half of the plastic "floating" with about 1/4" travel when you push down on it. Is this right, or did I put something together wrong?

Thanks!

IMG_20191230_192930 (resized).jpg
#3799 1 year ago
Quoted from estrader:

Pull out the machine on the service rails. There are four screws you loosen in order to be able to move the jaw so you can get the screws back in. Pretty easy. I believe if you look in the key post someone described it better then me.

Muchly appreciated good sir.
Now it’s NYE in 8 hours, time to get a li’l bit fucked up

#3800 1 year ago

I'm having the opto issues on the T-Rex ramp and want to do the shim fix (fast shots skipping over), but still don't have a picture in my mind of how it should look. Anyone have a photo or 2 of how it should look? Thank you.

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