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(Topic ID: 248218)

Welcome To The Jurassic Park Prem/LE Club!!


By EightBallTexas

1 year ago



Topic Stats

  • 6,380 posts
  • 545 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 15 hours ago by Sluggo39
  • Topic is favorited by 258 Pinsiders

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Topic poll

“What is the first MOD you will buy??”

  • Toppers 59 votes
    46%
  • New Jeep 51 votes
    40%
  • Plastic Characters 18 votes
    14%

(128 votes)

This poll has been closed.

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Topic index (key posts)

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There are 6380 posts in this topic. You are on page 69 of 128.
#3401 11 months ago

Future owner here. Still on the fence between pro and premium. For those of you who originally experienced issues with the T-REX not grabbing the ball 100% of the time how easy and reliable is the needed adjustment? Are we talking a relatively quick fix to permanently lock in a 95% (or above) grab success rate, or it it somewhat of a complex adjustment and unreliable in terms of fixing the issue? I also believe I read somewhere here that each code iteration has the potential of taking it back out of alignment. I really do like the additional features of the premium however am currently leaning towards a pro if the additional mechanisms are relatively unreliable. Would love some insight from you premium/LE owners who have experienced the issue and have made the adjustment to the T-Rex mechanism. Thanks!

#3402 11 months ago

I just picked up a new premium 2 weeks ago. It was perfect right out of the box. I have not had one issue with it. Great game. I would miss the premium features had I went with a pro.

Good luck
Mike

Quoted from jacksparrow0112:

Future owner here. Still on the fence between pro and premium. For those of you who originally experienced issues with the T-REX not grabbing the ball 100% of the time how easy and reliable is the needed adjustment? Are we talking a relatively quick fix to permanently lock in a 95% (or above) grab success rate, or it it somewhat of a complex adjustment and unreliable in terms of fixing the issue? I also believe I read somewhere here that each code iteration has the potential of taking it back out of alignment. I really do like the additional features of the premium however am currently leaning towards a pro if the additional mechanisms are relatively unreliable. Would love some insight from you premium/LE owners who have experienced the issue and have made the adjustment to the T-Rex mechanism. Thanks!

#3403 11 months ago

to follow, PREM should be next pin home...

#3404 11 months ago
Quoted from Green-Machine:

I own one so I can say with confidence It’s okay but not to die for by any means

So, LSOG just refunded my money for the amber shooter rod, so points for them.

Now, I'm still definitely in the market for one. So Green-Machine, since you don't like yours I'd be glad to buy it from you at the cost you paid plus shipping. If interested, please PM me with details.

#3405 11 months ago
Quoted from JOESCHALL:

So, LSOG just refunded my money for the amber shooter rod, so points for them.
Now, I'm still definitely in the market for one. So Green-Machine, since you don't like yours I'd be glad to buy it from you at the cost you paid plus shipping. If interested, please PM me with details.

I would sell to you but my wife absolutely loves it! If it disappeared I would be in a world of hurt

#3406 11 months ago
Quoted from Green-Machine:

I would sell to you but my wife absolutely loves it! If it disappeared I would be in a world of hurt

Ah, then someone in the house loves it. So you're keeping it for a good cause. I really appreciate the reply, regardless. Many thanks and enjoy your machine. My Premium is finally set to arrive next week.

If anyone else knows of a reliable way I can get my hands on an amber shooter rod, please let me know.

#3407 11 months ago

I’d love to know how you all got your JP shooter rod before everyone else. I ordered thru GAP the same day I ordered my LE (Deadflip’s reveal stream) and I’ve heard nothing but delays. I’ve had my LE since end of September.

I emailed Stern and the response was, ‘We are currently out of stock on these shooter knobs. We should have some in stock in about 2 weeks.’

BTW...that shooter rod should have been stock on the LE.

#3408 11 months ago
Quoted from evh347:

I’d love to know how you all got your JP shooter rod before everyone else.

Like a lot things in life, luck.

Quoted from evh347:

BTW...that shooter rod should have been stock on the LE.

Agreed.

#3409 11 months ago
Quoted from evh347:

I’d love to know how you all got your JP shooter rod before everyone else. I ordered thru GAP the same day I ordered my LE (Deadflip’s reveal stream) and I’ve heard nothing but delays. I’ve had my LE since end of September.
I emailed Stern and the response was, ‘We are currently out of stock on these shooter knobs. We should have some in stock in about 2 weeks.’
BTW...that shooter rod should have been stock on the LE.

I just happened to get it from Stern on the one day they had them in stock. It was shipped and at the house in a week.
I have heard the knobs are very involved to make. I spoke with chuck from Modfather and he says the Amber resin is hard to get just right and the bugs are a whole other problem.

#3410 11 months ago

Game code update:

V0.96.0 - December 4, 2019
==========================
- Smart Missile - fixed an issue with an occasional crash when choosing 'Complete Chaos' and hitting the Pop Target when a multiball is running
- Amber Slings - fixed an issue where 2x amber value was being added to the score for each Amber Sling
- Amber Slings - fixed an issue where only half the amount of Amber Value that was added to the score showed up in the total screen
- Amber Slings / Pops / Targets / Ramps - fixed an issue where the Amber Features display effect would show only the 1X value being awarded during 2X playfield multiplier
- Super Spinner - multiplier is now current Bonus X multiplier +1X and still adds +2X for perk (minimum: 2X, maximum: 8x) can still be doubled by 2X playfield multiplier
- Control Room Modes - now default to 45 seconds (up from 40 seconds)
- Control Room Select - fixed an issue where the dino move timer would still count down when you waited to select your mode, timer is now paused at this time
- All Paddocks - dino move timer will now not pause for Pop Bumper hits
- 2X Playfield - timer no longer pauses for Pop Bumper hits
- Super Supply Drop - 'TRIPLE BONUS' award now awards current Bonus score X3 instead of adding +3X to the Bonus X
- Visitor Center Bonus - Rescue is now worth 750K (up from 500K)
- Visitor Center Bonus - Rescue Streak is now worth 1.5M (up from 1M)
- Tilt Warning - Danger and Double Danger text added to display effect
- High Scores - adding T-Rex Encounter Champion
- High Scores - adding T-Rex Chase Champion
- High Scores - adding T-Rex Rampage Champion
- High Scores - adding Virus Attack Champion
- High Scores - adding System Boot Champion
- High Scores - adding Restore Power Champion
- High Scores - adding King of the Island Champion
- High Scores - adding Visitor Center Bonus Champion
- High Scores - adding Secure Control Room Champion
- High Scores - adding Invalid Frenzy Champion
- High Scores - adding Escape Nublar Champion (mode is coming soon)
- High Scores - adding Amber Pops Champion
- High Scores - adding Amber Ramps Champion
- High Scores - adding Amber Targets Champion
- High Scores - adding Amber Slings Champion
- High Scores - fixed an issue with the Bonus Champion not ever setting the high score
- High Scores - increased the high score defaults in general by 2x
- Enter Initials - updated font colors and sizes
- Enter Initials - fixed an issue with strange scaling when 'Q' is entered in either 3 or 10 letter layout
- Enter Initials - fixed an issue with characters lining up with underscores properly for the 10 letter layout
- Enter Initials - added sound effect when a high score champion is presented
- Attract Mode - tournament screens have now been added to the attract mode
- Competition Mode - competition mode screen when holding left flipper in has been updated to better integrate with Attract Mode

- Adjustment Changes:
- changed 'AMBER TARGETS TIMER' default from 30 to 40 seconds
- changed 'AMBER SLINGS TIMER' default from 40 to 30 seconds
- UTILS -> VOLUME -> BACKBOX SPEAKER TYPE - once this setting is overridden by the operator, the bootup sequence will no longer revert it to match the model's speaker type

- System - Updated to V2.37
- Updated to nodeboard firmware v0.54.0

#3411 11 months ago
Quoted from AUKraut:

You would figure that Stern would have released a quick update for this, as it makes JP unusable in a match play tournament & league setting...

...and here it is!

#3412 11 months ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

Agreed. Stern is rudderless. Nobody with any brains in the leadership. Pretty basic software QC here. If you discover a major flaw/bug you fix it and provide a quick patch to correct it. Never mind adding other things/bling. Fix the hard reset issue now.
"oh it'll be fixed in the next update in Dec".. that could mean 31 dec.

They showed you, huh?

#3413 11 months ago
Quoted from JediMcMuffin:

They showed you, huh?

Hell yes!

I love to get proven wrong in situations like this!!

Booyeaah. Time to update and "test" out the new code.. It's not that I love playing the game.. I'm really just testing out the code..

*shiftyeyes*…

LOL

#3414 11 months ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

Hell yes!
I love to get proven wrong in situations like this!!
Booyeaah. Time to update and "test" out the new code.. It's not that I love playing the game.. I'm really just testing out the code..
*shiftyeyes*…
LOL

Honestly I would think one of the biggest reasons the manufacturers should go after network connectivity is to capture panics and faults happening out in the field.

#3415 11 months ago
Quoted from JediMcMuffin:

Honestly I would think one of the biggest reasons the manufacturers should go after network connectivity is to capture panics and faults happening out in the field.

Yep, and telemetry like that will really start to push them towards better software development practices and therefore a better product to the custumer.

Face it - they're using us to test their code. Internal QA only goes so far. Getting more information and the ability to control the release of the patching allows so much more flexibility.

My company released an update to our Android app, and the next day we started to see in the data that specific devices were crashing. We got an update out the following day, solving the problem before we got any customers fed up enough to call or drop a 1-star review in the store. That's a big win that Stern doesn't have the ability to provide with their current architecture.

#3416 11 months ago
Quoted from jacksparrow0112:

Future owner here. Still on the fence between pro and premium. For those of you who originally experienced issues with the T-REX not grabbing the ball 100% of the time how easy and reliable is the needed adjustment? Are we talking a relatively quick fix to permanently lock in a 95% (or above) grab success rate, or it it somewhat of a complex adjustment and unreliable in terms of fixing the issue? I also believe I read somewhere here that each code iteration has the potential of taking it back out of alignment. I really do like the additional features of the premium however am currently leaning towards a pro if the additional mechanisms are relatively unreliable. Would love some insight from you premium/LE owners who have experienced the issue and have made the adjustment to the T-Rex mechanism. Thanks!

No different than any other NIB. Never owned a machine I haven’t tweaked and massaged. I think that’s part of the fun of ownership. Making every ramp, transition, loop, scoop and subway smooth as butter ... that’s part of the experience imo.

19
#3417 11 months ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

Put electrical tape over the bottom half of the opto opening. Helped on mine for both left orbit

Quoted from EaglePin:

I also put tape on the orbit opto. Shots going through the orbit at crazy speed hadn't been registering occasionally, and now it's registering them all.

Quoted from Freedom:

Will try the black tape quick fix I just read on an earlier post.

So the tape thing clearly works, but I was looking for a more permanent solution. Here's how a few washers can fix this and it's pretty easy.

20191202_203021 (resized).jpgFirst you can check your opto alignment with a ball in switch test mode (I used some magnets to position it into the beam). My ramp was fine (I had to lift the ball over 1/4" to get the beam to detect), but both of my orbit optos were able to "see" the beam with the ball raised only about a 1/16". If the ball is flying it may sail over the beam, or at the very least get de-bounced with the bottom of the ball only breaking the beam for a very short time.

20191202_201734 (resized).jpg
So you're looking for this bracket for each of the optos. Take loose the 2 1/4 hex screws and unplug and remove the opto assembly.

20191202_201720 (resized).jpg
There are 2 philips head screws holding each opto plastic to the metal bracket. You want to remove these screws and slide a washer onto both screws underneath each opto.

20191202_202332 (resized).jpg
I had a 0.060" thick #4 nylon washer that was perfect. You can see the optos sitting up a little higher on the bracket.

20191202_203246 (resized).jpg
Reinstall the opto into the game and you're all set. As you can see the LED is slightly higher in the hole.

This makes all the difference, and now my optos don't fail to trigger unless you raise the ball over 1/4" high off the playfield. I've not had any fast opto shots fail to trigger after this fix.

Enjoy!

#3418 11 months ago
Quoted from caker137:

So the tape thing clearly works, but I was looking for a more permanent solution. Here's how a few washers can fix this and it's pretty easy.
[quoted image]First you can check your opto alignment with a ball in switch test mode (I used some magnets to position it into the beam). My ramp was fine (I had to lift the ball over 1/4" to get the beam to detect), but both of my orbit optos were able to "see" the beam with the ball raised only about a 1/16". If the ball is flying it may sail over the beam, or at the very least get de-bounced with the bottom of the ball only breaking the beam for a very short time.
[quoted image]
So you're looking for this bracket for each of the optos. Take loose the 2 1/4 hex screws and unplug and remove the opto assembly.
[quoted image]
There are 2 philips head screws holding each opto plastic to the metal bracket. You want to remove these screws and slide a washer onto both screws underneath each opto.
[quoted image]
I had a 0.060" thick #4 nylon washer that was perfect. You can see the optos sitting up a little higher on the bracket.
[quoted image]
Reinstall the opto into the game and you're all set. As you can see the LED is slightly higher in the hole.
This makes all the difference, and now my optos don't fail to trigger unless you raise the ball over 1/4" high off the playfield. I've not had any fast opto shots fail to trigger after this fix.
Enjoy!

Awesome post. Thanks for taking the time. Could you also share this in the non premium/le thread?

#3419 11 months ago
Quoted from Scribbles:

Could you also share this in the non premium/le thread?

This is exactly why we don't need two JP2 threads!

Nothing personal and I don't care which one stays, but i'm really tired of monitoring two threads full of duplicate posts just to find the few that aren't...

#3420 11 months ago

I want to mark this as a key post, but wasn't exactly sure what it fixes. Orbit optos not registering?

Quoted from caker137:

So the tape thing clearly works, but I was looking for a more permanent solution. Here's how a few washers can fix this and it's pretty easy.
[quoted image]First you can check your opto alignment with a ball in switch test mode (I used some magnets to position it into the beam). My ramp was fine (I had to lift the ball over 1/4" to get the beam to detect), but both of my orbit optos were able to "see" the beam with the ball raised only about a 1/16". If the ball is flying it may sail over the beam, or at the very least get de-bounced with the bottom of the ball only breaking the beam for a very short time.
[quoted image]
So you're looking for this bracket for each of the optos. Take loose the 2 1/4 hex screws and unplug and remove the opto assembly.
[quoted image]
There are 2 philips head screws holding each opto plastic to the metal bracket. You want to remove these screws and slide a washer onto both screws underneath each opto.
[quoted image]
I had a 0.060" thick #4 nylon washer that was perfect. You can see the optos sitting up a little higher on the bracket.
[quoted image]
Reinstall the opto into the game and you're all set. As you can see the LED is slightly higher in the hole.
This makes all the difference, and now my optos don't fail to trigger unless you raise the ball over 1/4" high off the playfield. I've not had any fast opto shots fail to trigger after this fix.
Enjoy!

#3421 11 months ago

I just got my premium here in Sweden everything works perfect! Build date 15 oktober.

#3422 11 months ago
Quoted from f3honda4me:

I want to mark this as a key post, but wasn't exactly sure what it fixes. Orbit optos not registering?

Correct, airballs going by at higher speeds are not always picked up.

#3423 11 months ago
Quoted from jdroc:

This is exactly why we don't need two JP2 threads!
Nothing personal and I don't care which one stays, but i'm really tired of monitoring two threads full of duplicate posts just to find the few that aren't...

It would be nice if this Premium/LE thread was specific to only tracking LE owners and posts around the table features not on the Pro. I agree it's a bit of a mess with the way the two threads have evolved but not the end of the world.

#3424 11 months ago
Quoted from VindictiveX:

T-REX not Grabbing ball Consistently SOLVED.
Hey guys,
Just wanted to post this here as it may help some of you who are also having problems with the T-Rex not grabbing the ball consistently.
First of all, I did the mechanical adjustments that were listed previously in this thread by Keith and other posters regarding proper alignment of the T-rex. I ensured that when the T-rex opened his mouth that his jaw was resting lightly on the ramp and adjusted the T-rex left and right bias to make her jaw line up with the middle of the ramp. However, she still only grabbed the ball about 20% of the time. The other times it would just go in her mouth come back out and not even start the event. This made me realize that she was not being activated to grab the ball.
I went into switch mode and tested the opto on the trex ramp. it would trigger only if I placed a pinball directly on the ramp. If i raised the pinball even 1/8th of an inch off the ramp the the opto would disengage. I then tested the opto in the "O" lane. I could raise the ball 1/4 to 1/2 and inch and the opto would still be engaged. so with this information I realized I needed to raise the optics on the ramp because my pinball was jumping over the opto 70% of the time. However, there was no easy way to raise the opto as it is attached directly to the ramp. At this point I called Chaz at Stern, explained the problem, and asked if he knew of a way to raise these optics. He did not and suggested write a email and send pictures so he could forward to engineering.
However, once I got off the phone and realized there was not going to be an easy way to raise the optics, I started to think of other solutions. What I came up with is not elegant, but it works.
I covered the bottom half of the opto with tape.(see tape on ramp in the pictures below). This effectively raised the optics without physically moving it.
Now when in switch mode, i could raise the ball about 1/4 to half an inch off the ramp and the opto would still engage.
I then tested in game. Now, once the Trex opens her mouth to start a Trex mode, 100% of the shots to the ramp are recognized(starting the Trex event) and she grabs the ball about 80% - 90% of the time.
This is obviously not a permanent solution, but will work until I think of something else or Stern gets back to me.
hope this helps![quoted image][quoted image]

Is this the fix everyone is going with?

I can always start T-REX multiball, but outside of that, when it comes to starting modes, it registers like 10-20% of the time.

Most shots just seem to bounce of the jaw and roll back down.

Makes it pretty hard to play the game.

#3425 11 months ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Is this the fix everyone is going with?
I can always start T-REX multiball, but outside of that, when it comes to starting modes, it registers like 10-20% of the time.
Most shots just seem to bounce of the jaw and roll back down.
Makes it pretty hard to play the game.

Not for me, but 1 or 2 of 10 times he eat is very low. You sure you make a hard clean shot to it?

#3426 11 months ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Is this the fix everyone is going with?
I can always start T-REX multiball, but outside of that, when it comes to starting modes, it registers like 10-20% of the time.
Most shots just seem to bounce of the jaw and roll back down.
Makes it pretty hard to play the game.

Seems like the main physical adjustments are 1) making sure the jaw is touching the ramp when lowered, 2) an opto adjustment so it will register and trigger the magnet for the catch if the ball hops up a bit entering the ramp, and 3) maybe flipper power to some extent (reducing power a bit). Other than repair issues like screws falling out it seems to be a combination of those adjustments that’s helped a lot of people, including me. I haven’t played with the software adjustments at all though.

#3427 11 months ago
Quoted from f3honda4me:

I want to mark this as a key post, but wasn't exactly sure what it fixes. Orbit optos not registering?

Yes, that's right

Quoted from Scribbles:

Could you also share this in the non premium/le thread?

Is there a simple way to share, or do you just have to reupload and repost?

#3428 11 months ago

I just installed my shooter rod. When I lifted the playfield I found yet another screw and washer in the bottom of the cab. After I installed the rod, I lowered the PF and heard a rattle. Looked under it and there was another screw. This makes about 6 or so random washers and 4 screws that have fallen off or onto the PF from unknown sources. Is anyone else having this issue?

#3429 11 months ago
Quoted from hawkmoon77:

I just installed my shooter rod. When I lifted the playfield I found yet another screw and washer in the bottom of the cab. After I installed the rod, I lowered the PF and heard a rattle. Looked under it and there was another screw. This makes about 6 or so random washers and 4 screws that have fallen off or onto the PF from unknown sources. Is anyone else having this issue?

So far no screws in the bottom of the cabinet for me (probably just jinxed myself though). But I have been re-tightening the posts at the entrances to the ramps every couple weeks. Those and a couple other posts seem to loosen up pretty easily.

#3430 11 months ago

I don’t know if this has been brought up yet , but I just sold and set of a premium for a client and the helicopter mech was playing smooth and then all of a sudden the blades tighten and the ball gets stuck . It seemed that the ball would hit it just right claiming it to jam . . It turned out to be the small metal plate underneath the playfield . It was to close to the rod and it was getting caught on it causing the blades not to turn . I just loosened the two screws moved it back just a bit and retighten Super easy fix just in case someone runs into it .

67AFAA2C-9A4D-4AC9-AF81-8554A616468E (resized).jpeg8C4DC664-8CBD-4DBA-B7F2-304FBE06114E (resized).jpegACECC275-28AF-4C8C-B778-AE7FF58B564A (resized).jpeg
#3431 11 months ago
Quoted from Munsters:

Not for me, but 1 or 2 of 10 times he eat is very low. You sure you make a hard clean shot to it?

Yup! As I said, for the multiball, it makes it pretty much every time. Just after that, for the T-Rex chase mode or whatever, it will barely catch.

Quoted from EaglePin:

Seems like the main physical adjustments are 1) making sure the jaw is touching the ramp when lowered, 2) an opto adjustment so it will register and trigger the magnet for the catch if the ball hops up a bit entering the ramp, and 3) maybe flipper power to some extent (reducing power a bit). Other than repair issues like screws falling out it seems to be a combination of those adjustments that’s helped a lot of people, including me. I haven’t played with the software adjustments at all though.

Maybe I need to take a slo-mo video to see if the ball is hopping. The jaw is resting right on the ramp.

I wish they would have tested these things more at Stern before sending them out!

#3432 11 months ago

@WiaardsCastle- I would reach out to Stern customer support.
This shouldn’t be happening to you or for others experiencing this issue.

My T-Rex is near 100% and does not require a hard nor fast shot to gobble the ball on any T-Rex mode.
Tonight we were using our left flipper (at fairly slow speeds) to hit the left ramp and T-Rex was grabbing the ball with no issues.

I’ve found Pablo at Stern to be extremely quick at responding to queries.

On a positive note, we’ve seen no glitches on the newest code (.96) update. No further resets on the Smart Missile shot during multi-ball and the game’s sound is perfect.

Museum Mayhem is the somewhat easiest mini wizard mode to reach by playing all T-Rex events. The other new wizard modes we find much tougher to reach- particularly the paddocks end progression.

Regardless, what an epic game and an adrenaline rush every time we hit the start button,

#3433 11 months ago

Hi all. Am I losing my mind or is the JPLE manual's picture wrong for how the spring is assembeled on the auto-plunger/slingshot assembly? The manual shows the end of spring being 1/2 way inserted inside the coil + around the plastic coil sleeve. Mine's fat end sits above the coil mechanism currently. Just wanted to make sure I was looking at this correctly while installing a new arm.

IMG_20191206_180734~2 (resized).jpg
#3434 11 months ago

Do yourself a favor and replace your factory coilstops. Over time I've noticed it harder and harder to make the C and S shots...then noticed a little fluttering in the flippers...lift up the playfield and dust all over..

Don't know who the supplier is but the Stern factory coil stop supplier sucks.

Replaced mine with some Pinball Life ones and it's like a different game...making the shots again with ease.

About 1500 games in

The clean one is the pinball life one obviously
20191207_012848 (resized).jpg20191207_012933 (resized).jpg

#3435 11 months ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

Do yourself a favor and replace your factory coilstops. Over time I've noticed it harder and harder to make the C and S shots...then noticed a little fluttering in the flippers...lift up the playfield and dust all over..
Don't know who the supplier is but the Stern factory coil stop supplier sucks.
Replaced mine with some Pinball Life ones and it's like a different game...making the shots again with ease.
About 1500 games in
The clean one is the pinball life one obviously
[quoted image][quoted image]

And this is where Stern probably knows the stops suck, but still puts them into games as a consumable part that has to be replaced anyhow, just earlier with these ones. It's been happening off and on for at least 6 years now.

Rob

#3436 11 months ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Yup! As I said, for the multiball, it makes it pretty much every time. Just after that, for the T-Rex chase mode or whatever, it will barely catch.

Maybe I need to take a slo-mo video to see if the ball is hopping. The jaw is resting right on the ramp.
I wish they would have tested these things more at Stern before sending them out!

The jaw is more aligned to the left correct?

Get an mail from stern by Chas, he told me “Check the optical switch (#58) at the entrance of the ramp. This switch signals the T-rex to eat the ball. In some cases the switch is activated on the way down instead of the way up.”

Im not sure if i understand this...

#3437 11 months ago
Quoted from Munsters:

The jaw is more aligned to the left correct?
Get an mail from stern by Chas, he told me “Check the optical switch (#58) at the entrance of the ramp. This switch signals the T-rex to eat the ball. In some cases the switch is activated on the way down instead of the way up.”
Im not sure if i understand this...

for what i've read here, when ball is going to the mouth, and jumping on the ramp, no opto reaction... than no TREX grab
and than, ball is coming back, no more jumping, than activating the opto, but of course still no grab from TREX as ball is moving the other way...

#3438 11 months ago
Quoted from RipleYYY:

for what i've read here, when ball is going to the mouth, and jumping on the ramp, no opto reaction... than no TREX grab
and than, ball is coming back, no more jumping, than activating the opto, but of course still no grab from TREX as ball is moving the other way...

Yes, this i understand but whats the point of checking this switch because most balls he eat. So switch should be fine...

-1
#3439 11 months ago
Quoted from jdroc:

This is exactly why we don't need two JP2 threads!
Nothing personal and I don't care which one stays, but i'm really tired of monitoring two threads full of duplicate posts just to find the few that aren't...

I disagree with this particular pin. Pro owners don’t have the moving TRex so there is some specialty discussion that really is better in its own thread. Agree not all pins need separate threads but I like it for JP. Elvira of course needs only one.

#3440 11 months ago

I don't see any reference in the .96 notes regarding the high speed left orbit shot not registering. I haven't done any optical switch adjustments, nor have I tried any electrical tape cover ups.
After .96 the left orbit shot appears to be registering correctly now on my Premium.
Anyone else?

#3441 11 months ago
Quoted from Munsters:

The jaw is more aligned to the left correct?
Get an mail from stern by Chas, he told me “Check the optical switch (#58) at the entrance of the ramp. This switch signals the T-rex to eat the ball. In some cases the switch is activated on the way down instead of the way up.”
Im not sure if i understand this...

It will s a bit to the left...

Can I change the bias to correct this? If so, how? There Isa setting for left and right, and then + and -. I'm very confused.

Why not just have T-Rex alignment and then give option to go left or right?!?

#3442 11 months ago

so I'm getting a ton of pms asking about updating my custom code. Yes - I will be updating. Prob this weekend. More to come. Going forward though, no need to PM. I will always be updating as this is one of my fav games.

on a side note - does anyone with the tilt topper JP know how to plug in the power? Just got mine today - don't see how to install.

Thanks

#3443 11 months ago
Quoted from delt31:

on a side note - does anyone with the tilt topper JP know how to plug in the power? Just got mine today - don't see how to install.

How does it look? Mine is coming next week. I will see if I can figure out how to hook it up in a little bit.

#3444 11 months ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

Do yourself a favor and replace your factory coilstops. Over time I've noticed it harder and harder to make the C and S shots...then noticed a little fluttering in the flippers...lift up the playfield and dust all over..
Don't know who the supplier is but the Stern factory coil stop supplier sucks.
Replaced mine with some Pinball Life ones and it's like a different game...making the shots again with ease.
About 1500 games in
The clean one is the pinball life one obviously
[quoted image][quoted image]

This 100%!

#3445 11 months ago
Quoted from marksf123:

How does it look? Mine is coming next week. I will see if I can figure out how to hook it up in a little bit.

Looks great. I try to about toppers but this reminds me of the original but super charged.
Here's the plug
20191207_145951 (resized).jpg20191207_145957 (resized).jpg

#3446 11 months ago

Just did the Amazon pteranodon mod. Looks awesome. Perfect size. Drilled the pteranodon in the butt. Bent a coat hanger in there and flattened the other end to attach it to the ramp mounting point. I know some were asking how to mount so i took a few pics.

449E940E-3193-446B-8534-5F5326877AC0 (resized).jpeg732F7BC8-A790-4E6E-A0A9-CFAE966F07D8 (resized).jpegB07362C6-599B-4EFC-8A68-C1533DB889A8 (resized).jpeg
#3447 11 months ago
Quoted from delt31:

Looks great. I try to about toppers but this reminds me of the original but super charged.
Here's the plug

I don't have my topper yet but if I am correct you should of got the adapter shown below (check the box if you dont have it). Then the adapter plugs in to the board next to the coin door. Top left corner.

Finally got my games up in my loft. Now just waiting on my Jurassic Park topper which has shipped and my Star Wars topper.

IMG_4918 (resized).JPGIMG_4919 (resized).JPGIMG_4920 (resized).JPGIMG_4921 (resized).JPGIMG_4924 (resized).JPG
#3448 11 months ago

Having skipped 0.95, putting 0.96 on my LE on was a shock in the "holy crappy muffled sound, Batman!" department.

For those who would like to stay with the "proper" 4 Ohm setting (which might help some of the distortion I previously heard), try these settings as a starting point:

Volume: 35
Balance: -3
Backbox Speaker: 4 Ohm
Cabinet Speaker: 4 Ohm
Cabinet Bass Filter: 125hz
Cabinet Bass Gain: +9db

Leave everything else at default.

In other news, my topper arrived today! Unfortunately the packing material seemed to rub off some sections of the dinosaur's silver paint, which is a bit of a bummer. And I'd love to find a way to cover up the guts on the back, since my machine's current location makes it all very visible.

IMG_4916 (resized).jpg
#3449 11 months ago
Quoted from delt31:

Looks great. I try to about toppers but this reminds me of the original but super charged.
Here's the plug
[quoted image][quoted image]

I think it’s cn6 in the back box...it’s a little hard to see because of the other stuff plugged in around it

#3450 11 months ago
Quoted from estrader:

I think it’s cn6 in the back box...it’s a little hard to see because of the other stuff plugged in around it

That should do it

image (resized).jpg
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