I have mine connected to the shaker motor. I like that location the best.

I got my Premium with only a handful of plays for $7000, including STI shipping. I was nervous about STI but it came double blanketed, shrink wrapped and protectors on legs. Flawless shipping and working flawlessly. I feel extremely lucky.

Plugged mine into the flasher under the Trex ramp. That way whenever T tex modes are ready, the UV pulses as an indicator

I'm helping a Pinside friend with a potential add-on to his Mezel tower mod to cover the screw holes in the roof. Unfortunately, I can't get to the machine, and he doesn't have a way to measure what I'm needing. I need measurements for both of the screw holes on the roof (front & back one). Here is what I require (I prefer all measurements be in mm, but I can deal with anything):

- Front hole diameter (i.e. what diameter would a dowel need to be to fit perfectly inside the hole)
- Front hole depth (measured from high side of opening towards peak of roof to top of screw in hole)
- Front hole clearance (measured from high side of opening towards peak of roof to the approximate bottom of the glass)

- Back hole diameter (i.e. what diameter would a dowel need to be to fit perfectly inside the hole)
- Back hole depth (measured from high side of opening towards peak of roof to top of screw in hole)
- Back hole clearance (measured from high side of opening towards peak of roof to the approximate bottom of the glass)

I would appreciate of someone could please take the time to measure for me and post your findings. Once we test and finalize, the mod will be available to the community for purchase (should be fairly inexpensive).

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I think you guys need to ignore the screw holes and just get on with your life.

Downvote as necessary.

Well, to you - ha!

I have no knowledge of the apparent obsession this has become as I just had a pinball friend PM me about it. However, with minimal effort I'll be able to design something simple and cheap that many will like (then maybe those obsessing can get on with life).

If anyone is shamed now, but still really wants to help then you can PM me with the measurements and I'll maintain your anonymity. Alternately, you could just sack-up and post here in the open thread and let the chips fall where they may.

Downvote as necessary.

Le # 29 in the house! Great game! Most fun had playing a new pin in awhile. Lots to shoot for and do. Trex is pretty cool. Cool to watch!

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I got the ones with blur and don’t have UV, I think it looks pretty good.

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Quick question. I am looking at a NIB LE. Do all the Le games have the playfield issues as noted in the other forums? Or did they fix it later on the run?

Thanks! Montpelier, Virginia

+1 for Zach! I buy all my NIB pins from him too.

Just noticed in your pic you are developing a rub spot at the same point I had (on a thinner clear, no art around post Premium), the guide rail was torqued too tight and it started digging into the playfield and dare I say it (bubbling the clear slightly) I took a heat gun in 3 second passes and it layed down immediately...I let it cool, cleaned and waxed the area, loosened the two nuts under the playfield to give clearance to insert some mylar (this was a bitch and took multiple attempts) under the rail and then screwed the rail back down just hand tight...so far so good.

I can't figure out why there isn't some sort of clearance system built into rails...all it takes is too much torque and playfield rubbing and clear issues are sure to happen
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Here mine is post fix...you can see the silhouette of the rectangular piece of mylar under the rail that lies parallel to the factory installed piece

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What about a simple plug in type mod that you can insert into the screwhole...something 3d printed possibly like a siren or loudspeaker array
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First thing I did when I got my machine (before playing a ball) was back off the ball guide screw at the entrance to the left orbit to put a fraction of space between it and the playfield and I also put fabric washers at the apron screw holes. The ball guide on that left orbit was already cutting into the playfield without a ball having been played yet. The manufacturers really should put washers under those spots or leave them a fraction above the surface to keep the edges of the guides and aprons from cutting like a knife into the playfield.

Funny, I saw your post a while back, so I checked on mine at the time.. low and behold, I didn't even have a washer or lock nut on mine...I thought it was rolling out weird... Had already scraped the underneath of the plastic by the Raptor cage..

Totally agree, or just design a better system, there's no reason those guides needs to hug the playfield so tight...

I could never be a used buyer, too many inherited issues that if not caught right away could multiply down the road... At least with NIB I can catch and correctly fix things on the fly

Is the LE sold out ?

Are you able to remove the TREX cosmetic head/plastics without removing the whole mech assembly? I had this same screw fall out (no loctite from factory even though the parts diagram shows it should). And aside from literally removing the entire assembly front and back I'm trying to figure out how to actually get to the jaw assembly to put this screw back in.

That's a cool idea. Currently, I have a decal for the front hole and am going to make a vent pipe for the back one. Question would be if I was to do something like you show for the front in proportion, would I be able to generate enough detail so that you knew what it was. I like the loudspeaker array idea, just don't know if there is room or not yet (why I need the measurements).

I see that upvote . . . thanks for having a good sense of humor (how I intended it).

There isn’t an easy way to re-insert that screw without taking the whole mech out. It’s not that bad, though. 2 screws for the plastic that’s behind the T Rex head; Disconnect all wires (5, I think); then the 4 screws holding the mech to the backboard. Next, you need to remove the 3 screws In the bottom of the Rex jaw and remove the jaw piece from the mech. Then, remove the screw that is inside the roof of the Rex mouth so you can slide the Rex skin off of the mech enough to get access to the back of the Rex head to re-insert the missing screw; Finally, you have to hold the mech with the T Rex mouth pointed to the ceiling to get everything lined up properly to thread the screw. Insert the screw (use loctite!). Reassemble in reverse order.

Good luck! Let me know if I can help.

Thanks I wasn’t sure where to start. This helps I’ll try it tomorrow.

Found a perfect place for all 4 signs!

Unobstructed view and within context of playfield.

Here's a shot from the player perspective

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Where did you get that yellow caution tape for the playfield side rails?

OK I’ve played about 20 games with the flipper adjustment and it’s playing fabulous. I have no trouble making the tower shot or the left orbit, in fact it’s much easier than it was before. I’m also making the helipad shot much more frequently and I can also make the right orbit shot easier. So the adjustment for me has only helped. I’m still using factory rubbers. No drain problem so far with the flipper adjustment. After reading several of your experiences with this especially yours fooflighter, I’m starting to think it’s a combination of the differences pin to pin, how the flippers are, what rubbers are used, what playfield slope is at. So hard for one setting to work for someone else. But for me the flipper adjustment was fantastic. My slope is probably at least 7.0 right now. I’ll check that next time I hav the glass off. Just got a new inclinometer. Loving this game! Thanks for the help everyone.

That's great GamerRick, it's tough to nail down on this pin for sure as you've said there are a lot of variables at play...The shot array is really complex and I've noticed the slightest change here or there can affect the outcome of multiple things all over the playfield...I would say as long as it's working, I wouldn't change a thing on your end...Sometimes I think they have a layout at the factory, do the C&C cuts and dimples, but being handmade it's sometimes measure with a micrometer and cut with an axe. So If everything is working and the shots are flowing properly, I would say you have it dialed in. I would say the slope for me has been the best adjustment for the overall "shotmaking" ability. I am also at 7.0 at the flippers and my playfield has a slight .1-.2 rise towards the back...

When I unpacked and set up my LE, I found a little screw in the bottom of the box, so I went searching and finally found where it came from, ( at least I think that is where it came from) I removed the T REX and after searching there was a screw missing on the top just behind the neck of the T REX. So if you find a screw similar to the one in the photo this could be where it belongs, I would probably check to make sure that the screw in this location is tight.

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Well shit. Turns out my playfield was at about 5.8 degrees.. no wonder the side shots(helipad and control room) were almost impossible. Set it to exactly 7.0. Now I have to re-learn my game. And probably re-adjust the flipper bat positions again. Certainly faster play now. Only played 3-4 games at the correct slope so not enough to tell if it needs further tweaking yet. The outlanes seem worse than before and they were already pretty unforgiving. My gf won’t like that part lol. In her words “the game cheats”. Do nothing and the ball just drains in the outlanes all the time! Lol.. Still only have 2 games in the lineup so far and they are both outlane drain monsters lol. Sttng is the other.

I did the same thing. Trying the Omegas for the first time. I really like them - no striping or fancy colors but they really light up the playfield nicely....

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I totally agree. I’ve been using pinstadiums since first getting pins but never liked the candy striping effect. It’s even worse with the fusions. I love the Omegas. And the UV flasher triggered by the shaker works great for me personally. Just when I hit a trex letter it goes off for a couple seconds. Nice effect. I took fusions off two of my pins and replaced with Omegas, now I’m going with Omegas on all my pins except AFMR which will not have any. It has a recessed light right overhead and I have Power blades on it so you wouldn’t see them with Omegas attached. I’m keeping the fusions on my Munsters because the color effects are just so cool on that particular pin. Don’t see the striping on that one too much because the ramps have labels on them. Just see the dots of the lights reflecting from the side plastics. But it would be way too dark on those six pins that have or will have Omegas without them.

Hell you should see how much it’s costing me! I’ve spent more money just on pinball machines and mods than I did on my entire custom home theater which was the most expensive project I ever had done up to that point in my entire life. I put so much money into my basement now I’m never moving. I am just loving it though. Have the whole family coming over to my house for Thanksgiving it’ll be Turkey, gravy, stuffing, pies and Pinball!

Of course you’re the one with the cruise idea $$$ lol. So you can’t hate spending money too much haha. It’s worth it isn’t it?

No issues, even during Rampage

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/60#post-5317674

Can anyone help with measurements today?

Messing around with some flipper cap ideas. I think I’m going to replace small trees with a few larger palm leaves for better details.

What do you all think about the colors?

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Like!!! Very nice

Much better than the caution tape!

I like the larger palm idea, might look ok without the lettering too.

I'd be in for a set.

I took the forum's advice and adjusted my angle to 7 degrees. I need to relearn the ramp shots but the upper right ramp is already far easier to hit. The helicopter is difficult but possible now, whereas it was nearly impossible before.