I've messed with it quite a bit. With mine I currently have the middle position bias at -3. All others are default. I did lower the motor assembly slightly to make the jaw touch the ramp. I get about 25% rejects now compared to 75% before adjustment.

The other issue I'm having is the auto plunger not consistently making the ball complete the 180 after a ball launch. I try a new power setting (like 220) and all is well for a game or 2, but then it isn't consistently making the 180 again. Grrrrrr.
Plunger forks looks square and even. My PF pitch is currently 6.7/6.8. AC line voltage is steady at 120.
Anyone else having this problem? What auto plunger power settings are you using?

I have a green shooter rod and get a few rejects from launch.

After playing with the settings....

“T-Rex stepper middle pos bias” will move the head right with positive numbers and left with negative numbers. My adjustment is now ‘2’ and the jaw is centered. Now I have to move her down so her jaw is touching the ramp but it’s getting better. How did you bring her head down?

My auto-plunge misses about half the time. Still sorting that out.

We launched our new website on 11/1 here is the like to the product on the new site https://pinnovators.myshopify.com/collections/stern-subwoofer-kits/products/pinsub-spike-stern-kit

When purchasing from the new site you will have more options for shipping than just priority which is the only choice we can offer on the old site.

Use this code YDH69A53QCH8 at checkout for for 5% off your first order at our new site. Valid until 2:00 pm EST Nov 6.

Making of :

Updated link for new site: https://pinnovators.myshopify.com/collections/stern-subwoofer-kits/products/pinsub-spike-stern-kit

Use this code YDH69A53QCH8 at checkout for for 5% off your first order at our new site. Valid until 2:00 pm EST Nov 6.

Incognito Michael Jackson

Any vids of the t-rex action?

Grabbed Today a set of tickets to the TPF2020.

He does the animations I believe.

How often would you all say you get plunges that go up the halfpipe and don't brick out and turn into a short plunge, in both auto and manual?

It seems that sometimes the ball takes a slight left curve and bashes into the left side just outside the halfpipe and fails to complete the wireform return

I'm using the new Amber shooter rod and I'd say about 85% of the time I'm getting a full plunge into the wireform, the auto, maybe 90%..is this normal would you say compared to what you guys are seeing?

Thanks everyone

Mines about 95%

Is my premium supposed to be pretending to be an LE with the code?

20191105_174821 (resized).jpg

Stern doesn't release premium codes. The LE and Premium machines are identical.
So with Stern you either use a Pro code or an LE code.

This is my one complaint with this pin so far. I'm having a hell of a time getting the ball to consistently make it up that vertical 180.

I wonder if tweaking the shooter rod to either side would help the ball travel, if there's the slightest bit of english on it, it seems it can go careening off the left of the jump before it hits the 180..

I did boost my auto plunge power to 210, that seems to make a big difference

I posted a fix for this previously. Easy peasy.

Which is

I think this one https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/28#post-5255575

I did this also thanks to the post from Chambahz - had to raise up the left side of the fork and it made a BIG difference in the percentage of plunges (both auto and manual) making it up the heliport ramp

Thanks everyone! I did something different just before I read this fork fix and so far I'd say about 97% hit the 180 now...Here's what I did

Was standing next to my pool table and had an idea...

First off I backed off all three shooter rod screws and then hand tightened until just snug, then I aligned the tip directly to the center of the ball, then gave the screw on the left (standing in playing position) a slight turn to just barely offset the shooter tip to the left (I mean very slight, again looking from the playing position) then hand tightened all three in a pattern keeping the slight offset. Now the ball still travels straight when plunged right down the center, but there is a slight english to it causing a little spin to the right and keeping it in line up the 180...

To the eye the shooter rod looks perfectly straight but on the ball contact you can see it just kisses the left side a little

Tada!!

Finally... messing around all day today on my day off getting this pin dialed in...Leveled everything and set 6.5 deg incline...Adjusted helical wireform on the one attachment post to pull the exit point closer to the orbit wall - now the ball exits cleanly to make the combo shots for days...Adjusted all 3 flippers with the rubber even to the to the lane guides with a straightedge (this made a huge difference, especially on the upper flipper and I immediately started making my shots and getting some serious combos, up until then it was a clunkfest)..one game in and I posted an 873+ mil score...Love this game...every successful shot now feels like I'm blowing up the Death Star on SW Prem.

My post just below my upper right flipper is not flush with where the flipper should rest. Is yours like that? And are you saying that you moved your flipper to line up with that post even if it looks like it might be off a little from straight and that helped your shots? I am having a hard time getting it past on either side of the flipper cleanly.

Also my pin flows excellent speed wise except the upper center gate once it goes through that it almost always crawls to the right of the half orbit that starts at the middle gate with the trex sticker on it. I’ve got the bubble level to the top of the first line not centered. I figured that would speed it up but I’m wondering if it actually did the reverse. This is the only speed issue I’d like to address on the flow of the whole pin.

I did this a while back and the results were terrible. You need to address the source--the shooter mechanism problem itself. This, while clever, is a horrible recommendation for most people. The auto or manual button push is supposed to be 100% reliably getting the ball up to the ramp. If you've done this workaround you're going to eventually see less consistency, if not at first. Stern needs to address this.

I think it's probably easier to show in a pic, basically, it's the reverse of the main flippers and the alignment hole is actually at the top of the flipper rather than the bottom on my mains.

I just use a guitar fret straightedge and place it right on the orbit return and bring the top of the rubber right to it

I don't rely on the bubble straight from the factory without adjustment

I use my phone and Pinball leveler on the playfield to get 6.5 deg after calibrating it on my pool table which is level..

I then adjust the bubble on the machine to center so that I know its a true 6.5 deg.

6.5 seems to keep the speed around the orbits nice and fast...

The shot you mention through the spinner is a little slower than the upper flipper feeding the left orbit but it varies, sometimes it rips around, other times it drops into the pops, I think it just varies on which flipper gets it through the spinner gate

20191105_220504 (resized).jpg

20191105_220516 (resized).jpg

20191105_220527 (resized).jpg

20191105_220553 (resized).jpg

Looks like my post got buried in the mix again regarding T-Rex issues. Anyone with such should probably read this. Just trying to help others not fall into the saga I've been dealing with.

So how do you change the Trex mode you play bc I tried hitting the car after qualifying and still can't avoid doing TREX MB each time.

Also, this is a comparison of the machine Keith Elwin was using in his rules video and mine, both overhead

This was not how mine came from Stern, the flipper bats were all centered to the alignment holes

sidebyside (resized).png

Is this one of the spacers you’re referring to (circled in red)? I’ve see posts about doing this and I’m guessing these are the spacers to remove but just wanted to check to be sure. Is the ball hopping up at that spot when it hits the ramp apron? Thanks.

BE575633-2837-46B3-B7AD-8A2E0D7271BB (resized).jpeg

The first T-Rex mode is always the Feed T-Rex multiball, by design. It gives casual players an easy MB. It's the only T-Rex mode that will activate via the opto switch (ball doesn't need to stick in T-Rex's mouth). The other 3 T-Rex modes (Rampage, Chase, and Encounter) qualify and change via truck hits AFTER the first T-Rex mode (Feed T-Rex multiball) is played. Rampage is the one that throws the ball, the other 2 place it on the habitrail.

I would never begrudge anyone their preference for 100% when it comes to the mechanics of the game. But for me, my personal preference is that I like the somewhat unexpected surprises you get on rare occasion. My plunge rate is about 95% and I love it that way. I personally consider the variance as part of the game and a welcome level of randomness I can't get with video games.

That being said, there is a big difference between broken and unpredictable.

Awesome thanks!

Is there any indication to the player regarding what mode they're set to play after Trex MB? Or is it just random after you hit the truck?

Just got word... tomorrow.
Jurassic Park water.gif

Cool, me too. Was getting all the pinball set up stuff together.

Since day1 of my NIB LE T-REX never moved horizontally great. Over time it was moving, less and less to the point where it finally did not move at all. The motor worked and everything was working and getting triggered as intended, but no head movement.

The issue was set screw #9 (seen manual page below) that holds the metal rod in place that black box motor rotates. Tighten this up and it works great again.

Posting this here in case anyone else has this issue.

T-RexHead (resized).png

My first JP2 LE issue: the right lower flipper just lost about 50% of its power. I'm a bit of a noob - any ideas???

Fixed a JP Pro last night with the same lower right flipper being weak: broken coil stop.

apparently happening a lot so guessing faulty made in china part.

Coil stop probably just broke. If the rivet on the end can be wiggled by hand it needs to be replaced.