(Topic ID: 248218)

Welcome To The Jurassic Park Prem/LE Club!!

By Royale-W-Cheese

4 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 9,175 posts
  • 799 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 38 minutes ago by Slaitster
  • Topic is favorited by 434 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic poll

“What is the first MOD you will buy??”

  • Toppers 59 votes
    46%
  • New Jeep 51 votes
    40%
  • Plastic Characters 18 votes
    14%

(128 votes)

This poll has been closed.

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

IMG_5630.jpeg
Pinside_market_106545_2.gif
002-pro-jurassic-park 2 (resized).jpg
PXL_20240116_030524583 (resized).jpg
PXL_20240116_031412806.MP (resized).jpg
IMG_0996 (resized).jpeg
IMG_0997 (resized).jpeg
IMG_0383 (resized).jpeg
IMG_0382 (resized).jpeg
IMG_0381 (resized).jpeg
20231207_202319 (resized).jpg
IMG_0971 (resized).jpeg
IMG_0972 (resized).jpeg
20231204_220043 (resized).jpg
IMG_1088 (resized).jpeg
IMG_1089 (resized).jpeg

Topic index (key posts)

18 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 9,175 posts in this topic. You are on page 183 of 184.
#9101 3 months ago

Key post by K.E. says top of upper right flipper should be aligned to the dot (not center of flipper), but with that, the balls hits the post below the flipper on the way down from the orbit. Seems like if the flipper was “out” just a little more, it would return smoothly to the lower right flipper. Color me puzzled.

#9102 3 months ago
Quoted from jackd104:

Key post by K.E. says top of upper right flipper should be aligned to the dot (not center of flipper), but with that, the balls hits the post below the flipper on the way down from the orbit. Seems like if the flipper was “out” just a little more, it would return smoothly to the lower right flipper. Color me puzzled.

If the ball doesn’t hit the post and you don’t flip, on a level machine it’s likely to go SDTM. Lining up the flipper so the ball hits the post when you don’t flip should give you a safe return

#9103 3 months ago
Quoted from jackd104:

New to the club. Please see first pic with T. rex mouth open. I notice it’s not centered on the ramp. This makes my anal retentive nerves go crazy. Is this considered acceptable? It grabs the ball most of the time, but rejects it sometimes and can’t help but wonder if it can be more centered.
I found all the key posts for adjustments and spent time trying to fix. In horizontal test, T. rex is centered (see 2nd pic). He is also centered in vertical test when in upper or mid position. When he moves to lower position, he slightly hits the ramp up toward the back of his neck which seems to cause the assembly to get off center as seen in pic. A key post said he should not touch the ramp, I believe. I have tried adjusting the vertical motor bracket but it doesn’t seem to raise him enough to not touch ramp. And even if it did, then the mouth doesn’t seem like it would touch the pf. The mouth, as it is now, probably travels an extra 3mm after first touching pf.
Am I being too anal? Thanks.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Try -7 on the middle positioning bias. The setting matters more in the game than the diagnostic test, so give it a play after you adjust the additional -1

You don’t want her mouth banging against the ramp. Also, make sure her jaw isn’t going to hit anything, like the spinner bracket or ramp, as the plastic is soft and will damage if gouged. My spinner bracket had to be pushed lower.

-7-7

Quoted from jackd104:

Key post by K.E. says top of upper right flipper should be aligned to the dot (not center of flipper), but with that, the balls hits the post below the flipper on the way down from the orbit. Seems like if the flipper was “out” just a little more, it would return smoothly to the lower right flipper. Color me puzzled.

While NoSkills may be correct, this is how I have mine and I get the ball hitting the left flipper, as you said. It’s a little bit to do with the post and flipper, not just one or the other.

Flipper

FlipperFlipper

Level

LevelLevel

You definitely want to make sure that your flipper isn’t impeding the ball going up the helicopter up ramp by hanging back in the lane

Heli LaneHeli Lane

Again, congrats on the new game and great choice

#9104 3 months ago
Quoted from MiniPinHead:

Also, make sure her jaw isn’t going to hit anything, like the spinner bracket or ramp, as the plastic is soft and will damage if gouged. My spinner bracket had to be pushed lower.

When I unboxed, t Rex’s jaw was clenching the wire form and stuck between it and the spinner assembly. which didn’t seem right to me (see pic). I thought maybe stern did that for shipping, but then again it was really stuck. I had to loosen the whole assembly from the back to free the T. rex. Anyone else’s? Maybe this warped something in the assembly?

Thanks for the tips!

IMG_1092 (resized).jpegIMG_1092 (resized).jpeg
#9106 3 months ago
Quoted from jackd104:

Key post by K.E. says top of upper right flipper should be aligned to the dot (not center of flipper), but with that, the balls hits the post below the flipper on the way down from the orbit. Seems like if the flipper was “out” just a little more, it would return smoothly to the lower right flipper. Color me puzzled.

I believe this is intended behavior. The ball should bounce off the post to the left flipper. In development, this was more consistent than any configuration without the post or with the flipper aligned for the ball to not hit it.

Quoted from MiniPinHead:

You definitely want to make sure that your flipper isn’t impeding the ball going up the helicopter up ramp by hanging back in the lane

I think it's OK if that happens. A shot that fails the heli ramp will usually come back controllably for another try. And of course you can just hold the upper-right flipper when aiming for the heli ramp.

#9107 3 months ago
Quoted from jackd104:

Key post by K.E. says top of upper right flipper should be aligned to the dot (not center of flipper), but with that, the balls hits the post below the flipper on the way down from the orbit. Seems like if the flipper was “out” just a little more, it would return smoothly to the lower right flipper. Color me puzzled.

Lots of trial and error required here. The thickness of the flipper ring you are using may also influence the alignment of the bat too. I think the best advice is it’s your machine, you can set it anyway you like, but on my machine I make sure that the rolling ball on the bat just nicks the post sleeve a hint, changing the direction ( to the left) just a bit to prevent SDTM.

#9108 3 months ago
Quoted from MiniPinHead:

Try -7 on the middle positioning bias.

Thanks. I messed around with the middle bias some more. It came set at -6. Putting it to -1 seems to work for centering the T. rex best on my game. Also part of my problem was I was judging center by standing center of machine instead of ramp.

#9109 3 months ago

Could someone with 30th LE possibly take a close look at your back glass and let me know if it has many of these tiny dots where it looks like the art is scratched out and the mirror is showing through? Not sure if this is normal or a defect.

IMG_1088 (resized).jpegIMG_1088 (resized).jpegIMG_1089 (resized).jpegIMG_1089 (resized).jpeg
#9110 3 months ago
Quoted from jackd104:

Could someone with 30th LE possibly take a close look at your back glass and let me know if it has many of these tiny dots where it looks like the art is scratched out and the mirror is showing through? Not sure if this is normal or a defect. [quoted image][quoted image]

I don’t think that was intentional, but lots of 30th owners are reporting the same “cosmetic blemish”. Not sure Stern will do anything to correct it.

#9111 3 months ago
Quoted from jackd104:

Could someone with 30th LE possibly take a close look at your back glass and let me know if it has many of these tiny dots where it looks like the art is scratched out and the mirror is showing through? Not sure if this is normal or a defect. [quoted image][quoted image]

https://sternpinball.com/support/

#9112 3 months ago

I put in a request about the back glass. Let’s see what they say.

#9113 3 months ago
Quoted from jackd104:

Could someone with 30th LE possibly take a close look at your back glass and let me know if it has many of these tiny dots where it looks like the art is scratched out and the mirror is showing through? Not sure if this is normal or a defect. [quoted image][quoted image]

I'm almost certain that is intentional and the way this backglass is meant to look- those "shiny metalic" areas are in the exact same spot on mine its done for effect, nothing to worry about on that.

#9114 3 months ago
Quoted from Whistles:

I'm almost certain that is intentional and the way this backglass is meant to look- those "shiny metalic" areas are in the exact same spot on mine its done for effect, nothing to worry about on that.

Please see here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-30th-anniversary-jp30-1993-2023-jurassic-world-retheme/page/9#post-7752881 and the subsequent page in that thread.

The flecks, or missing paint, might be in generally the same areas, but not in the same spots across individual back glasses.

Have never heard this was done for effect before. Is there evidence of that directly from Stern?

While it might be nothing to worry about, it's a great reason to not seek after a 30th AE too hard, unless Stern has actually replaced someone's back glass. Don't actually recall anyone coming back around and saying they got a replacement that didn't have this issue going on.

#9115 3 months ago

I was going to ask about it until I saw the same effect of the right side of the cab near the dino’s mouth.

#9116 3 months ago
Quoted from MiniPinHead:

Have never heard this was done for effect before. Is there evidence of that directly from Stern?

I mean when I was looking at mine I could almost see the "digital" way this effect was applied- I did have to get up close with the backglass to remove sticky tape residue. So my initial thought was that this was done for a specific artistic reason, and that is usually or (some of the time) the mirrored part of the BG was going to be whatever was in the background of the art- the grass or walls or w.e sometimes its done more to accent these things.

And the art of the JP30 would have looked strange this way with the glass etc from the dome being all mirrored or mostly (who knows maybe this was not done for other reasons) so they went with accents and this effect. The accents are well done and I had the same thought I'm sure people thought when the upper right corner was mirrored through but then I was like oh that's done for effect.

As for the parts that were the same- it is uncanny - Or that can also occur from screenprinting issues (if that was even used here ?). Or other issues as well, but it'd seem more sloppy- the JP almost looks like confetti which is why I assumed it was put in digitally.

#9117 3 months ago

To further clarify about the effect and my assumption- is that its below the banner, to simulate dust or particles that are falling down - and for the eye I thought it was put there to accentuate the glint in her eye.

#9118 3 months ago
Quoted from Whistles:

To further clarify about the effect and my assumption- is that its below the banner, to simulate dust or particles that are falling down - and for the eye I thought it was put there to accentuate the glint in her eye.

It's definitely a positive way to view it

If the patterns were the same across all back glass, then I'd be convinced, but early reports showed similar areas, but different locations for the missing paint. As you said, definitely is a manufacturing thing of some sort.

It'd be a cool affect if it were rain, but I can't buy the dust argument

#9119 3 months ago
Quoted from MiniPinHead: If the patterns were the same across all back glass, then I'd be convinced, but early reports showed similar areas, but different locations for the missing paint. As you said, definitely is a manufacturing thing of some sort.
It'd be a cool affect if it were rain, but I can't buy the dust argument

You've never even seen one of these have you? (unless your offer to buy them was reciprocated of course!).

#9120 3 months ago
Quoted from MiniPinHead:

Please see here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-30th-anniversary-jp30-1993-2023-jurassic-world-retheme/page/9#post-7752881 and the subsequent page in that thread.
The flecks, or missing paint, might be in generally the same areas, but not in the same spots across individual back glasses.
Have never heard this was done for effect before. Is there evidence of that directly from Stern?
While it might be nothing to worry about, it's a great reason to not seek after a 30th AE too hard, unless Stern has actually replaced someone's back glass. Don't actually recall anyone coming back around and saying they got a replacement that didn't have this issue going on.

The pics from that linked post look the same as my back glass. Leads me to believe it’s not a defect. Or at least not a one-off defect that only I have. I was just thinking I got a bum one but looks like that just how it is. Still waiting on stern reply

1 week later
#9121 82 days ago

Can anyone confirm this flipper alignment? I'm used to flippers pointing at the alignment hole but this one's further back forcing you to use the flipper, if you don't the ball hits the post and goes out of control.

I wondered if stern changed their mind about the alignment after the pf dimples had already been done.

20231204_220043 (resized).jpg20231204_220043 (resized).jpg

#9122 82 days ago
Quoted from DaveTheTrain:

Can anyone confirm this flipper alignment? I'm used to flippers pointing at the alignment hole but this one's further back forcing you to use the flipper, if you don't the ball hits the post and goes out of control.
I wondered if stern changed their mind about the alignment after the pf dimples had already been done.
[quoted image]

Correction to my initial post as I misremembered before actually looking up the authoritative post. According to the designer of the game, the top flipper bat should be aligned so that the top edge (the side that makes contact with the ball) of the bat (not the rubber) is even/inline with the hole.

#9123 82 days ago
Quoted from DaveTheTrain:

Can anyone confirm this flipper alignment? I'm used to flippers pointing at the alignment hole but this one's further back forcing you to use the flipper, if you don't the ball hits the post and goes out of control.
I wondered if stern changed their mind about the alignment after the pf dimples had already been done.
[quoted image]

That’s how it should be according to the designer. There’s a key post about it. I thought it was odd, too, but I’ll go with Keith I suppose.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/96#post-5516155

#9124 82 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

As discussed a bazillion times, the center point of the tip of the bat should be aligned with the hole. You DO NOT align the upper bat like you typically do lower flippers.

But that's how you align lower flippers (on stern, classic bally, sega and DE), center of the tip to the hole.

Quoted from jackd104:

That’s how it should be according to the designer. There’s a key post about it. I thought it was odd, too, but I’ll go with Keith I suppose.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/96#post-5516155

Thanks, it is odd as if they changed their mind later on. I did search this thread but found different opinions and it just looks odd

#9125 82 days ago
Quoted from DaveTheTrain:

Thanks, it is odd as if they changed their mind later on. I did search this thread but found different opinions and it just looks odd

You know the saying about opinions....

I'll stick with the statement made by the person that actually designed this game, regardless of how they got to that decision.

Nothing is preventing you from setting up differently, just like someone playing 5 balls instead of 3, or turning off EBs or making them easier. It doesn't matter. It's YOUR game!!

#9126 82 days ago
Quoted from DaveTheTrain:

But that's how you align lower flippers (on stern, classic bally, sega and DE), center of the tip to the hole.

First of all, I misremembered and had it backwards. In this particular case the designer of the game said to align the top bat in such that the top edge is in alignment with the hole.

Also, not all Stern, Bally, Willams, or DE games did it (I have/had each of these and none of them were center hole aligned). I think maybe this is prevalent in modern Stern machines, but since the DMD era (I have no idea before that) most alignment holes I've seen are inset 1/2" or so from the tip of the flipper bat and people follow one of two methods:

1) Align flippers using straight edge to be in-line with the inlane guides.
2) Placing a toothpick, wire, etc. in the alignment hole to where the bottom of the flipper bat (not the rubber) rests against it.

I'm thinking that probably a good rule of thumb would be . . .

Scenario 1: If the hole is positioned so that it is at the tip of the bat is not covered by the bat then align the center of the bat to the hole (except when otherwise noted by the designer/manufacturer).
Scenario 2: If the hole is positioned so that it is inset from the tip of the bat and is covered by the bat then align the bottom of the bat (not the rubber) to the hole.
Scenario 3: If there are no alignment holes, align to the inlane return.

Of course, these are all starting points and anyone is free to align their flipper bats however they want on their own machines.

#9127 82 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

2) Placing a toothpick, wire, etc. in the alignment hole to where the bottom of the flipper bat (not the rubber) rests against it.

That is the old Bally/Williams standard, but this isn't how to do it on a Stern. For Sterns, align the center of the flipper bat precisely at the dot. (Or tweak it from that baseline if you like. I always put it higher by 1 to 3 mm or so, makes catching balls and backhand shots easier, and I don't have any problem hitting low outside shots.)

Jurassic's upper flipper is an exception, Elwin's stated intent is (as others said) to align the upper edge of the flipper bat with the dot. It should sit a little bit behind the post. If a ball is coming down the orbit and you don't flip, it should bounce off the post to the lower-left flipper.

#9128 81 days ago
Quoted from jackd104:

The pics from that linked post look the same as my back glass. Leads me to believe it’s not a defect. Or at least not a one-off defect that only I have. I was just thinking I got a bum one but looks like that just how it is. Still waiting on stern reply

I’m interested to see Stern’s official take on this. Attached are pics of the backglass I currently have, which is actually a replacement one. My original didn’t have white spots like others but did have a part of the image scratched off the side so I was able to get a replacement, which is similar to my original.

I do see some spots that may be for effect but they blend in. If they were white then I’d personally be more concerned. Either way I’m of the take that these aren't by design because they aren’t uniform across the board (from the two I have and from the limited scope of pics that others have posted) but mine seem fine in both cases.

IMG_0971 (resized).jpegIMG_0971 (resized).jpegIMG_0972 (resized).jpegIMG_0972 (resized).jpeg
#9129 81 days ago
Quoted from briyau15:

I’m interested to see Stern’s official take on this. Attached are pics of the backglass I currently have, which is actually a replacement one. My original didn’t have white spots like others but did have a part of the image scratched off the side so I was able to get a replacement, which is similar to my original.
I do see some spots that may be for effect but they blend in. If they were white then I’d personally be more concerned. Either way I’m of the take that these aren't by design because they aren’t uniform across the board (from the two I have and from the limited scope of pics that others have posted) but mine seem fine in both cases.[quoted image][quoted image]

I’m working on it with stern and distributor. Nothing settled yet but I’ll report back

#9130 79 days ago

Finally joined the club with a Premium yesterday.

I heard there is a cool code out there that you can upgrade to.
Anybody have a lead on how to get that code?

20231207_202319 (resized).jpg20231207_202319 (resized).jpg
#9131 79 days ago
Quoted from kciaccio:

Finally joined the club with a Premium yesterday.
I heard there is a cool code out there that you can upgrade to.
Anybody have a lead on how to get that code?[quoted image]

There is a whole threaad on the movie code..

2 weeks later
#9132 61 days ago

I’m having a weird problem getting a plastic back on my JP. The raptor pen has a nut holding the right raptor foot which collides with the left side rail of the machine.

I can’t see any way for this to fit without some serious modification. I have to be making some kind of mistake.

IMG_0381 (resized).jpegIMG_0381 (resized).jpegIMG_0382 (resized).jpegIMG_0382 (resized).jpeg
#9133 61 days ago

Ignore my last post. I put them upside down. The manual is wrong. Maybe this will help someone else.

IMG_0383 (resized).jpegIMG_0383 (resized).jpeg
#9134 61 days ago
Quoted from kciaccio:

Finally joined the club with a Premium yesterday.
I heard there is a cool code out there that you can upgrade to.
Anybody have a lead on how to get that code?[quoted image]

DystopicPinball has great movie code for beginners (who don't have the rule set down yet), and butterz and PoMC each have a more advanced movie code version (for people that already know the rule set solidly).

#9135 56 days ago

Couldn't find it with search, having an issue that after T-rex locks ball she won't release it. Have had for 2+ years and this is first time I've experienced this problem. Ball goes in great, triggers the capture, mouth closes, etc but she just never releases the ball until lost ball search enables and then will pan left and drop the ball just fine.
Weird this would just start happening out the blue, anyone know of a fix?

1 week later
#9136 45 days ago

I bought a JP LE 3 months ago and updated the code about a week ago. Since that, I swear shooting the left ramp is significantly harder. Did the code drop the flipper strength or anything like that?

The screw on the front post is the left ramp also keeps backing out. I've never used locktite but is that the best option?

#9137 45 days ago
Quoted from peetie:

I bought a JP LE 3 months ago and updated the code about a week ago. Since that, I swear shooting the left ramp is significantly harder. Did the code drop the flipper strength or anything like that?

You can check the release notes to see if it changed...but I believe the default right flipper strength on the premium has always been lower than on the pro for the supposed purpose of protecting the t-rex. You may want to increase it a bit as others have done.

#9138 45 days ago
Quoted from Killermarmot:

Couldn't find it with search, having an issue that after T-rex locks ball she won't release it. Have had for 2+ years and this is first time I've experienced this problem. Ball goes in great, triggers the capture, mouth closes, etc but she just never releases the ball until lost ball search enables and then will pan left and drop the ball just fine.
Weird this would just start happening out the blue, anyone know of a fix?

It’s definitely in this thread as this is common. Mouth opto is not working. Usually a broken wire in the mouth. This means removing the TREX assembly. Seems daunting but really isn’t. Also covered many times in the thread.

#9139 45 days ago

Getting back in the club, if anyone has an Art of Pinball T-Rex head they either no longer want or never installed and changed their mind and looking to recoup the cost, just reach out.

Thanks

#9140 44 days ago

I just got the ball stuck behind the right ramp. I used a cone shaped rubber bumper I bought from Amazon to block the entrance. I’ve used these on many games to prevent stuck balls.

https://www.amazon.com/Cone-Shaped-Clear-Rubber-Bumpers/dp/B075KWVTJV

IMG_0996 (resized).jpegIMG_0996 (resized).jpegIMG_0997 (resized).jpegIMG_0997 (resized).jpeg
#9141 44 days ago
Quoted from mbelofsky:

I just got the ball stuck behind the right ramp. I used a cone shaped rubber bumper I bought from Amazon to block the entrance. I’ve used these on many games to prevent stuck balls.
https://www.amazon.com/Cone-Shaped-Clear-Rubber-Bumpers/dp/B075KWVTJV[quoted image][quoted image]

Air ball from the up/down post?

#9142 43 days ago
Quoted from MiniPinHead:

Air ball from the up/down post?

I was not in multiball.

I used the top flipper to hit the ball around the upper loop. I was expecting it to come back to the flipper but it was gone.

I know that the up/down post will come up when the ball comes from the right side in some scenarios. Now I do not remember if it could go up if the ball comes around the loop from the left. I will check, but if it does, I hit it pretty fast and the up/down post would be the reason.

I did check to ensure that the post was level with the play field in the down position.

#9143 43 days ago

Does anyone know where you can find the Art of Pinball custom sculpted t-rex?

#9144 43 days ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

Does anyone know where you can find the Art of Pinball custom sculpted t-rex?

Believe they are sold out....only avaiable if someone is willing to part with one...

#9145 40 days ago
Quoted from mbelofsky:

I just got the ball stuck behind the right ramp. I used a cone shaped rubber bumper I bought from Amazon to block the entrance. I’ve used these on many games to prevent stuck balls.
https://www.amazon.com/Cone-Shaped-Clear-Rubber-Bumpers/dp/B075KWVTJV[quoted image][quoted image]

I'm having some ball stucks of my own. These all come from shots to left ramp when trex has its mouth open. Can't tell if I need to adjust the t-rex vertical alignment or just hit cleaner shots

Getting stuck on the wireframe in front of the tamp seems to be more common.

Any suggestions?

PXL_20240116_030524583 (resized).jpgPXL_20240116_030524583 (resized).jpgPXL_20240116_031412806.MP (resized).jpgPXL_20240116_031412806.MP (resized).jpg
#9146 40 days ago
Quoted from GreenDevil:

I'm having some ball stucks of my own. These all come from shots to left ramp when trex has its mouth open. Can't tell if I need to adjust the t-rex vertical alignment or just hit cleaner shots
Getting stuck on the wireframe in front of the tamp seems to be more common.
Any suggestions?
[quoted image][quoted image]

I guess I'm just assuming that some of those were from on-target rejects. Myself I added two washers to the screws holding that plastic down and it gives that plastic enough of a "detent" that the ones that would usually reject (cause these are likely slight airballs to begin with) are more likely going to be able to enter that area and trigger the opto. I only used washers on the two front screws, that is what will give it a slight angle.

#9147 40 days ago
Quoted from GreenDevil:

I'm having some ball stucks of my own. These all come from shots to left ramp when trex has its mouth open. Can't tell if I need to adjust the t-rex vertical alignment or just hit cleaner shots
Getting stuck on the wireframe in front of the tamp seems to be more common.
Any suggestions?
[quoted image][quoted image]

For the first one, your wireform is too low. On mine (pro not premium but I think they're the same here) the wireform is high enough that the ball can't contact it and the plastic shield underneath at the same time. Either raise the wireform by adding washers at its mounting points, or you might have to bend and twist it to raise up the back side in that area.

You can also address the root cause of the airballs, which is that the metal ramp flap at the entrance is too springy so it launches balls into the air. On mine I put a piece of cardboard under it so it can't flex downward and rebound.

#9148 40 days ago

vikingerik I think you may be right as I'm seeing what I think are clean shots bump as they enter the left ramp. How did you position the cardboard under the flap? I'm willing to try it to see if it improves at all. I'm pretty sure my T-rex is aligned appropriately.

Edit - found your post from the other JP topic. May also consider rubber buttons as another user suggested

1 week later
#9149 28 days ago

Premium owners, if you are interested in trading your JP premium (plus cash) for a JP limited edition, please send me a message. In person trades only. Thanks!

#9150 28 days ago
Quoted from RonSwanson:

Premium owners, if you are interested in trading your JP premium (plus cash) for a JP limited edition, please send me a message. In person trades only. Thanks!

lol....

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
From: $ 12.00
Flipper Parts
Precision Pinball prod.
Flipper parts
From: $ 6.50
Playfield - Other
Rocket City Pinball
Other
From: $ 30.00
Cabinet - Other
Rocket City Pinball
Other
$ 79.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Lermods
Toys/Add-ons
$ 45.00
Cabinet - Decals
Inscribed Solutions
Decals
$ 29.95
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
ULEKstore
Toys/Add-ons
$ 24.00
Lighting - Other
Pin Monk
Other
From: $ 20.00
Cabinet - Other
Filament Printing
Other
9,000
Machine - For Sale
Manalapan, FL
$ 25.00
Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
PinEffects
Sound/Speakers
$ 29.99
Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
PR Mods
Sound/Speakers
From: $ 45.00
Cabinet - Decals
arcade-cabinets.com
Decals
$ 427.00
Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
PinWoofer
Sound/Speakers
$ 28.50
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
ULEKstore
Toys/Add-ons
From: $ 7.50
Playfield - Protection
Pin Monk
Protection
$ 54.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Lighted Pinball Mods
Shooter rods
From: $ 149.95
Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
PinWoofer
Sound/Speakers
$ 17.00
Lighting - Other
Pin Monk
Other
9,200 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
Mequon, WI
From: $ 8.99
Cabinet - Other
NO GOUGE PINBALL™
Other
9,000 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
Saint Albans Town, VT
$ 15.00
Playfield - Protection
arcade-cabinets.com
Protection
$ 60.00
Tools
Performance Pinball
Tools
$ 54.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Lighted Pinball Mods
Shooter rods
€ 75.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Pino Pinball Mods Shop
Toys/Add-ons
$ 300.00
$ 69.99
Cabinet - Decals
Inscribed Solutions
Decals
€ 70.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Pino Pinball Mods Shop
Toys/Add-ons
$ 16.95
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
ULEKstore
Toys/Add-ons
Great pinball charity
Pinball Edu
There are 9,175 posts in this topic. You are on page 183 of 184.

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/183 and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.