Has it always been that way? Mine came with the holes drilled slightly in the wrong spot underneath right out of the box so it couldn't go down smoothly. Rather than drilling new holes in the playfield I choose to remove the mech underneath and Dremel the holes on the mech slightly more oval so I could move the mech down just a tad so it would line up perfectly. You may have that issue it's worth a look

Yes some games (including mine) needed the mech to be better re-aligned - the easiest way we found was to slot the gate bracket holes, so that you have slightly more movement to align the gate squarely in the hole before tightening the bracket screws.

Only happens when he is REALLY hungry!

Thanks for this. Ordered and just installed it. MUCH better.

Confirming this worked like a charm! Thank you (and Manny) so much!

I had this happen out of the box. My lift gate bracket was slightly bend meaning it wasn’t 90 degrees to the playfield. Check the brackets alignment

Hello everyone. Just got a Premium version and a little disappointed in stern for quality control. The raptor was not mounted and t-rex was not moving on game play. I got t-rex to work once I went through the diagnostic thanks to a post on here. Anyways for the raptor it only had a screw no nut. I found a nut that fitted it, but when I mounted it I believe are magnets seem to be a bit off the plate. Anytime a ball hits it, the raptor doesn't move. I reached out to Stern but was hoping someone here might know how to fix that problem. Also the latch on the lock bar, the left one, is lose but I am guessing there is a way to tighten it? It wasn't lose when I first unlocked it but I think after the 3rd time it came lose.

Edit: N/M on the raptor. What happened was I tightened it too tight when I was connecting the legs so that is why it wasn't moving. I think I know what is going on with the latch, I just have to get in there and see.

There two active JP threads. I suggest posting things in the other one as it’s more active.

Hey lads got a question about the helicopter shot..

I have played JP a ton. Had a pro and my bf has one too. Hundreds of games. Just got a Premium and man.... cannot make the helicopter shot to save my life. Rejects every single time.

I know I'm hitting it perfect, it just doesn't make it. I'm thinking maybe the angle is slightly off?

Just wondering if anyone else has had this experience...

Have you checked if the ball touches the screw heads that hold the heli ramp flap down? It seems to be more common on the newer produced machines

Try a couple different degrees up and then if not better try down - all the sudden it’ll become butter. Hi too far and then Control room becomes clunky- but there is a sweet spot on every JP machine

Hi! I am looking to install a shaker onto my JP Prem pin. Are there any reason(s) I shouldn't do this? Anyone experience anything negative after installing one? I am looking at the Shaker Motor Kit (Rev C) For Stern SPIKE & SPIKE 2 System Games. Any advice on this particular shaker?

Also, for those that have installed one; can it be toggled on/off via the on screen menu or is controlled manually.

Thanks!

No reason not to get one. Really great integration with this game. Especially the beginning of TREX multiball. Can be disabled or adjusted via menus.

And rampage and t-Rex chase and….

I’m getting ball traps I wasn’t getting before…does anything about this gate look off/wrong to you?

Machine is level…

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https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/49#post-5293986

Re: ball traps.

Thanks! I think that did it...

Hi! Well, I have installed the shaker and it is pretty dope!!!

Follow up question is:

What would you recommend to eliminate the glass vibration noise? Any sort of tape/pads to put in the glass guide rails? I dialed back the motor intensity to 'Long', but still having some vibration noise issues. Notably during the longer more intense rumbles (T-REX award mainly). Gameplay rumbles are fine.

Any advice is greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

Black electric tape around the left and right edges of the glass will stop the noise.

Tape didn't really work. Is there a way through the settings to trigger the shaker manually so I can isolate the exact spot(s) I need to dampen?

Thanks!

Are you sure it's the glass? did you play with the glass removed to see? Could be backglass?

Pinball Life sells this Anti-Rattle tape that has soft felt on one side and sticky stuff on the other for exactly this purpose. I've bought and used it and it works amazingly well.

https://www.pinballlife.com/anti-rattle-tape-12-x-25-ft.html

I always have a roll of this laying around and I use it for many different random things around the house including pinball.

JVCC FELT-06 Polyester Felt Tape [1mm thickness felt]: 3/4 in. x 75 ft. (Black) https://a.co/d/0twroYL

I made some JP shooter rods. These are meant to simply replace the standard shooter. I cast an actual crane fly in resin in the middle of three amber layers. The casting was the hardest part of the process as the crane fly sometimes had small bubbles near his body or floated toward one of the edges.
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After casting, I mounted a brass fitting in the resin and screwed in the threaded blank shooter rod from Pinball Life to ensure the proper length. I wanted to make sure they provided the proper full plunge.IMG_0741 (resized).JPG

I then lathed them into a very nice plunger shape, which happens to be a bit larger than the official JP plunger. They were then sanded with 220, 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1500, 2000, 3000 and then polished to a high gloss finish.IMG_0720 (resized).JPG

I ended up with 7 shooter rods. 4 of which I would consider very nice. There are three that I would consider seconds. The shooter itself looks great and has great feel, but the crane fly cast is not perfect.

Anyone interested can PM me before I list them in a Pinside ad.
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Wow - those look nice. Looks like a ton of work.

Care to share the price?

I also posted the schematic to add two LEDS to the shooter plate which allows it to be animated by the gamecode. stern’s shooter comes with the amber rod and the animated plate. I built the LED plate and posted the schematic a few times in this thread if anyone wants to DIY it.

I was planning on selling the good ones for $89 and the seconds for $39.

Thats a great price!

It looks like it would be kinda fun to make those, with the right tools and know-how. Starting with resin molds, then turning and polishing on the lathe. (But it also looks like a bunch of clean-up at the lathe afterwards!). Looks like a "fun" weekend project to be sure, and it reminds me I need to find myself a lathe someday...

I have looked at all of your posts in this thread and cannot find the schematic you mentioned. Would you please post it again?
Thank you!

Ordered mine

Didn’t wanna pull the trigger on a pricey Stern one, so I opted for one of hd60609’s “secondary” plunger rods for $39, $48 after shipping. Very excited to give my Premium some extra style points. Will post pics when installed.

Consider splurging on the LED mod as well, it's cheap and takes advantage of the animation built into the game code for the shooter plate LEDs. A connector, some wire, two LEDs and two resistors.... plus an hour or so.

Do you know if this topic has been covered in either thread?

Thanks -

Will

I posted pictures of the wiring mod in ONE of the JP threads a year ago. Look for my name and I will try to find it too.

Found it. Post #7094.

Posted this on the main club, but figured it might be better here:

Does anyone know of the backboard can be taken off without too much hassle?

As for as I can see, the T-Rex assembly is mounted to the back of the backboard, but the ramps just go through the cutouts.

There maybe be a few posts and screws keeping everything tight and in place, so hoping I can get it off without too much difficulty.

Any thoughts?

Well nearly 2 months after I placed my order for Tilt Mirror Blades, they finally arrived yesterday and this morning I got them installed. Pretty easy learning process on what to do thanks to YouTube. Unplugged 3 molex connectors and 1 cat-5 cable connecting the playfield to the cabinet. Made sure to label them no matter how simple I thought it may have been to remember. Used some Gorilla double-sided tape along the back of each blade to keep them installed nice and stable.

Doing some digging in this thread for pictures of other owners with mirror blades, I didn’t find a whole lot. So, for future references for others who might be thinking of purchasing I made sure to take some pictures. It truly is difficult to capture the full effect of what mirror blades do for your playfield vs other art blades. I wish I could upload a video. I took a bunch and chose the ones I thought gave some decent impressions.

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Looks like all current machines got new code today! Here is JP's release notes. The first two lines are interesting. The first sounds like they did a big change to the operating system itself which is hopefully invisible to owners (its now called SpikeOS V2.7), the second may be addressing the reported reboot/freeze when IC hardware is installed. The rest is IC stuff and some coin handling changes.

V1.07.0 - September 12th, 2022
==============================
- System - Updated to V3.22.0 on OS: V2.7.0

- Corrected potential game reset issue.

- When entering a WiFi password, the previous characters will be displayed as an asterisk.
The WiFi password will be displayed as all asterisk when entering the setup screens or scanning
the WiFi setup QR code.

- Added Service Menu Tech Alert when weak signal strength is detected. The signal strength
and SSID will be displayed. An average signal strength < 40 is considered weak. A weak
WiFi signal may contribute to a slower or inconsistent connection which may effect the abilty
to login or download software updates. Signal strength can be improved by the use of an
inexpensive WiFi extender. A wired Ethernet connection can also be used in cases where WiFi
signals are problematic.

- Added Standard Adjustment "ENABLE HOME TEAM IN COINPLAY", default value of NO.
Setting this to YES will allow Insider Home Team to be available for machines not
set to Free Play. Normally "USE INSIDER HOME TEAM" is only available in Free Play
mode. Many home players, who choose to use their game in Coin Play, have requested
the ability to enjoy Home Team! Setting this this adjustment to YES will default the Home
Team Guest Retention to Never. If you wish a different setting you will have update that
adjustment after enabling Home Team in CoinPlay. Home Team is not available for machines
registered to a Pro account operating in a commercial environment.

- Added Standard Adjustment "REMOVE FRACTIONAL CREDITS". Values are:
"NEVER" and "AFTER X MINUTES IDLE", where X is between 30 and 240.
The default value is "NEVER". If the game is idle (no coin or flipper
switch activity in attract mode) for X minutes, any fractional credits will
be removed. Whole credits will NOT be removed.

- Added Standard Audit "FRACTIONAL CREDITS REMOVED", which will track the number of
fractional credits that have been removed when the game was idle.

- Changed the default value for Insider Connected Software Update to "Install updates automatically".

Hey everyone, hoping for some help here. Got a NIB JP Pro, less than 100 plays on it and I've had it only a week or so.

The ball next to the jeep that the jeep spins around came off. I've tried popping it back on with a little force and a rubber mallet but it doesn't take much more than some wiggling to get it to pop right back off again.

Any suggestions?

PXL_20220921_212327606 (resized).jpg

Perhaps some Loctite red?

Replace. Should come under warranty replcement. You can try epoxy or JB Weld while you wait for the replacement but the temp fix won’t last long.

Seems to be a common issue on the more recent produced machines. The ball is a force fit and people haven't had success in refitting it. Best thing to do is to contact Stern and get a replacement one under warranty

You need a new part, under warranty. That ball is pressfit into the post and takes a pretty big beating in every game. Any glue you try will struggle after enough plays… maybe 10 games and then you are back to looking for a real fix. Easy to swap, but you need the part from stern.

I don't know, but if I had to guess I think people might recommend looking into a warranty replacement. Just a guess though

Looks like contacting Stern for a replacement it is, thanks so much for the advice!

@superNESjoe,

Here's something you can try while waiting for your replacement.

Assuming you have both the ball and shaft removed from the machine, clean off any and all glue residue that is on that newton ball shaft as well as in the ball. Use acetone or mineral spirits; you want those metal surfaces absolutely clean.

Put the ball in the oven at about 325 degrees for about twenty minutes. At the same time, put the shaft in the freezer. What will happen is that the ball will increase in size a miniscule amount. At the same time, the cold will cause the shaft to shrink by a very small amount. I'm talking microscopic amounts.

With gloved hands (duh!), very carefully insert the cold shaft into the hot ball. Use a small hammer to lightly tap the shaft and set it into the ball.

Now put the assembly aside for half-an-hour or so until it cools down. With luck, the shaft will be fixed tightly in the newton ball.