(Topic ID: 248218)

Welcome To The Jurassic Park Prem/LE Club!!

By EightBallTexas

2 years ago


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Topic Stats

  • 8,690 posts
  • 730 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 days ago by pinheadpierre
  • Topic is favorited by 368 Pinsiders

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Topic poll

“What is the first MOD you will buy??”

  • Toppers 59 votes
    46%
  • New Jeep 51 votes
    40%
  • Plastic Characters 18 votes
    14%

(128 votes)

This poll has been closed.

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Topic index (key posts)

18 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 8,690 posts in this topic. You are on page 172 of 174.
#8551 4 months ago
Quoted from John_I:

Where have you guys been getting these home pin translites? I've been searching everywhere for one, I can't stand the translite in the premium.

Email Terry at pinball life and see if he can get part number 830-1039-M4. Often he can with a special order.

#8552 4 months ago

Dino eye orders are closed. Thank you to everyone who is participating. FYI, I always buy enough extras for 1 or 2 additional in case parts are damaged during assembly. Once I've fulfilled everyone's order, I will alert the group if/how many I have available and they will be sold on a first come, first serve basis.

#8553 4 months ago
Quoted from acakoning:

Hi all, i have also purchased the Stern Jurassic Park Premium pinball ! Of course i only did so after reading every single comment in here and the ratings
I bought it brand new from SCHWAB Spielautomaten here in Switzerland. They have a delivery package which includes installing, software update, and testing. While the game is stunning, there were immidiately 3 things wrong with the game. I don't think SCHWAB Spielautomaten did a great job at all in testing the machine because:
1. The Kinetic ball with the car is difficult (heavy and not freely moving) to rotate and the ball gets stuck a LOT..
2. One of the soldering points on a motor from the T-rex is just OPEN! Not connected at all.
3. The Raptor cannot move because its tail is stuck behind the the metal plate next to it.
Wondering if these things are considered NORMAL for a brand new Stern machine..
Kind regards, A
[quoted image]

Not sure if someone responded to your questions. I'm a complete noob and this was my first machine, but I had the same experience regarding your first issue. The fix required to lift the playfield completely so you can access the assembly under the jeep. I took apart the components and cleaned everything with alcohol (you can't use any type of lubricant because it would just be a magnet for more dust and grime). This seemed to fix the issue and the jeep rotates freely again.

If anyone has any other suggestions, I would be happy to hear them!

Thanks.

#8554 4 months ago
Quoted from Gee_Bananas:

Not sure if someone responded to your questions. I'm a complete noob and this was my first machine, but I had the same experience regarding your first issue. The fix required to lift the playfield completely so you can access the assembly under the jeep. I took apart the components and cleaned everything with alcohol (you can't use any type of lubricant because it would just be a magnet for more dust and grime). This seemed to fix the issue and the jeep rotates freely again.
If anyone has any other suggestions, I would be happy to hear them!
Thanks.

Key post in the other JP thread https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park/page/106#post-5683784

#8555 4 months ago
Quoted from timlah79:

I've suspected that a lot of my jaw issues have been due to the "rubbing" of the mold as well. Can you please show pics or if you don't want to dismantle the assembly again, then like Manny65 said, download and mark-up that diagram to show where you put spacers in between what part and what spacers you used (model number)? That would really help the community!

I finally took the time to troubleshoot my T-Rex jaw sticking open and thought I'd post the results. In my case it seemed to be binding with a "rubber to rubber" feel when the jaw was fully open, and that's exactly what it turned out to be. The lower jaw skin was binding with the upper jaw skin just slightly, causing it to stick open - sometimes for a long time, sometimes for just long enough that the ball would release before it was supposed to. This case was an easy fix - I just took a sliver of skin off the upper jaw with an Xacto. I checked clearance before and after with a piece of paper. Been working great ever since. A before picture and a picture of the sliver during removal is included.

IMG_0087 (resized).jpgIMG_0090 (resized).jpg
1 week later
#8556 4 months ago

I cant wait to get this game. I dont know why but I just enjoy Keith’s designs so much, I know this pin is going to be a keeper and keep me entertained longer than my 1 week old DP.

#8557 4 months ago

I just noticed a weird issue on mine tonight, the raptor fence seems to be going lower than it used to causing a ball to get stuck.

Is there an adjustment like the bias for the t-rex? If so, where is it at?

#8558 4 months ago
Quoted from CoinGuyNinja:

I just noticed a weird issue on mine tonight, the raptor fence seems to be going lower than it used to causing a ball to get stuck.
Is there an adjustment like the bias for the t-rex? If so, where is it at?

It's a manual adjustment - there are 1 or 2 screws that set the height of the gate when lowered, so you adjust it such that the top of the gate is level with the PF. It's a similar adjustment to the up-posts (in the top orbit, raptor pen, control room and left return lane).

#8559 4 months ago
Quoted from Manny65:

It's a manual adjustment - there are 1 or 2 screws that set the height of the gate when lowered, so you adjust it such that the top of the gate is level with the PF. It's a similar adjustment to the up-posts (in the top orbit, raptor pen, control room and left return lane).

I'm assuming that's on the bottom of the gate under the playfield?

#8560 4 months ago
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

I cant wait to get this game. I dont know why but I just enjoy Keith’s designs so much, I know this pin is going to be a keeper and keep me entertained longer than my 1 week old DP.

It’s best out of 20 + games I’ve owned hands down. So so good. Miss it and def will get again and keep next time

#8561 4 months ago
Quoted from CoinGuyNinja:

I'm assuming that's on the bottom of the gate under the playfield?

Yes, it's on the bottom of the mech underneath. You can't miss it.

#8562 3 months ago
Quoted from ramegoom:

They're not magnets, they are ferrite filters. The ferrite material is non-magnetic and absorbs transient voltages produced with electro-magnetic devices; they clamp around the input and output cabling. The assembly basically stops the spike in its tracks.
Without those, there is a risk that a transient spike will affect the CPU system and cause undesired operation of the game. Those high voltages can destroy sensitive board-level components.
The two halves need to clamp together around the wires for it to be effective.

sorry for the off topic question:
I need to get ferrites for a shaker motor I have, and I am not sure if I need to look for a specific impedance. I am getting other stuff from DIGIKEY and trying to get these at the same time but can't figure out what I need - I do have another set and I know they are about 10mm of inside diameter, but impedance wise these are all different and want to get the right one.

#8563 3 months ago
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

sorry for the off topic question:
I need to get ferrites for a shaker motor I have, and I am not sure if I need to look for a specific impedance. I am getting other stuff from DIGIKEY and trying to get these at the same time but can't figure out what I need - I do have another set and I know they are about 10mm of inside diameter, but impedance wise these are all different and want to get the right one.

answering my own question the peeps at Stern helped and they sent me the part number, in case this ever is needed by someone else.
Digi-Key Part Number
240-2072-ND
Manufacturer
Laird-Signal Integrity Products
Manufacturer Product Number
28A2024-0A0

#8564 3 months ago
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

answering my own question the peeps at Stern helped and they sent me the part number, in case this ever is needed by someone else.
Digi-Key Part Number
240-2072-ND
Manufacturer
Laird-Signal Integrity Products
Manufacturer Product Number
28A2024-0A0

Were you getting some kind of interference? Are you putting these at the shaker connection or where it plugs onto the coin door interface board?

#8565 3 months ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Were you getting some kind of interference? Are you putting these at the shaker connection or where it plugs onto the coin door interface board?

I am following the instructions included with the shaker (stern).

95551F47-FE0D-4538-97DA-9C4A02153FFF (resized).jpeg
#8566 3 months ago
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

I am following the instructions included with the shaker (stern).[quoted image]

Hm, I don't think I ever had those, but I don't get the official Stern one, I get the one from pinball life.

#8567 3 months ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Hm, I don't think I ever had those, but I don't get the official Stern one, I get the one from pinball life.

The question I have is, why would the manufacturer recommend installing ferrites and the other option does not…

#8568 3 months ago
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

The question I have is, why would the manufacturer recommend installing ferrites and the other option does not…

Using ferrites ensures no/minimal noise is generated in the cabinet speaker. Maybe some manufactures simply haven't considered that or testing has shown that the interference is negligible and ferrites are not really necessary

#8569 3 months ago
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

I am following the instructions included with the shaker (stern).[quoted image]

Stern should just include the $1.50 part

#8570 3 months ago
Quoted from radium:

Stern should just include the $1.50 part

They do, I was just asking because I lost them and needed to replace them.

#8571 3 months ago
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

They do, I was just asking because I lost them and needed to replace them.

Ok that’s good… I’m sorry stern I thought you were cheap

#8572 3 months ago
Quoted from radium:

Ok that’s good… I’m sorry stern I thought you were cheap

LMAO

#8573 3 months ago

If anyone here has the Cliffy's installed on their game can you take close up pictures of the ramps with the carbon fiber flaps? I'm not entirely clear what those are for what problem they solve. I'm considering ordering the Cliffy set for my JP Prem when it arrives in the next build.

Thanks

#8574 3 months ago
Quoted from SimpleSkin:

If anyone here has the Cliffy's installed on their game can you take close up pictures of the ramps with the carbon fiber flaps? I'm not entirely clear what those are for what problem they solve. I'm considering ordering the Cliffy set for my JP Prem when it arrives in the next build.
Thanks

It solves the problems of the flap retaining screws being in the path of the ball. You remove the 2 screws and the metal flap, then stick on the CF one. That’s it. No more metal flap or screws.

#8575 3 months ago
Quoted from SimpleSkin:

If anyone here has the Cliffy's installed on their game can you take close up pictures of the ramps with the carbon fiber flaps? I'm not entirely clear what those are for what problem they solve. I'm considering ordering the Cliffy set for my JP Prem when it arrives in the next build.
Thanks

I can take pics this morning

#8576 3 months ago
Quoted from JMCFAN:

I can take pics this morning

Pics on Cliffys site

http://www.passionforpinball.com/JP3-Stern.htm

#8577 3 months ago

Why would you use this over mylar?

#8578 3 months ago

Well today this happened. Traded a game for this and Elvira was excited to have a Stern buddy in the house finally. Will pick up a shaker right away and contemplating which art blades look best. I’ll start perusing this thread for any tips but it seems dialled in nicely from the few games i’ve put on it.

As for shaker’s - the official stern shaker seems currently unavailable. Is there any notable difference between that and the PBL one?

738E3751-DB26-4233-B722-2977E24AEE0D (resized).jpeg
#8579 3 months ago
Quoted from Completist:

As for shaker’s - the official stern shaker seems currently unavailable. Is there any notable difference between that and the PBL one?
[quoted image]

Apparently Stern's has ferrite cores on the shaker power line now. I don't remember it having that before. I have more Pinball Life shakers than Stern (or the terrible) Red Tremor Cointaker sells/sold. Just get the PBL one.

#8580 3 months ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Apparently Stern's has ferrite cores on the shaker power line now. I don't remember it having that before. I have more Pinball Life shakers than Stern (or the terrible) Red Tremor Cointaker sells/sold. Just get the PBL one.

Ok thanks. I have a PBL one in Elvira , just wasn’t sure if the “official” shaker worked better somehow. Had the red tremor in my TWD and that was definitely more intense.

#8581 3 months ago

I just received and installed a coin door mod for my JP LE. I bought it from InscribedSolutions.com. I really like the way it looks vs. having just the standard black coin door. A really easy install (just place the magnetic vinyl on the door and presto....done). This is the second one that I have purchased (Deadpool was the first) and I will certainly buy ones for my Mandalorian and TMNT when they become available. The price (69.99 +shipping) is very reasonable and the owner (Michael) is a great guy to do business with. Really anxious to make sure his customers are satisfied. And no, I did not receive anything for posting this, just wanted to share.

20220306_051331_resized (resized).jpg20220306_051444_resized (resized).jpg20220215_063628 (resized).jpg

#8582 3 months ago

Hello Jurassic Park owners, I am in the line-up for a premium. Was wondering if someone could share me the list of things to check/fix before playing the 1st game. This will be my 2nd nib machine, and by experience with Mandalorian, I am pretty sure there is also a checklist for JP machines :p

Thanks

#8583 3 months ago

UPDATE: The last set of eyes is spoken for. Thank you to everyone who purchased a set this round.

All dino eyes are made and shipped, and I have enough components to sell just one additional set. The first person to PM me who can pay today gets them. I may do another run down the line if I get at least 10 commitments, but as it stands now this is your last chance if you wanted them but missed out before.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/171#post-6775685

dinoeyes (resized).jpg

#8584 3 months ago
Quoted from yancy:

My raptor gate needed significant adjustment. Here's a step-by-step guide of my repair. I'm sure there are other solutions, but this worked for me, with tools I already had on hand. Apologies in advance for the blurry photos. My ancient phone doesn't do well with close-up shots.
Gate wasn't lowering all the way. It's pretty clear that it was hanging on the back lip of the opening. About half of all shots would brick on the slightly raised gate, and captured balls had to be shaken loose after the gate lowered. Also, my decal was getting chewed up after just a handful of games (decal already removed in photos).
[quoted image][quoted image]
Looking under the playfield, we can see that the gate is stopping short of the resting point adjustment screws:
[quoted image]
Here are the four mounting screws/holes we need to adjust. The gate needs to move forward, which is up in this photo:
[quoted image]
If the gate needed to move back (down in the above photo), we could disassemble the bracket and pad it out with some washers to make it thicker. But alas, we can't make it thinner.
Here are the screw holes:
[quoted image]
I don't see any dimples near them, which means if the installer missed the mark, she didn't miss by much. We can either fill these with glue & toothpicks and drill new holes immediately adjacent to them, or enlarge the bracket holes to allow for adjustment. I opt for the latter, because even if I drill new playfield holes, I might not get it perfect on the first try. With larger bracket holes we can adjust to our heart's content.
I had a tungsten carbide Dremel bit left over from cutting a hole in a corian countertop. Dremel spun too fast and grabbed the bracket. Too dangerous for my liking, so I chucked it up in a drill:
[quoted image][quoted image]
Here's a comparison of the original holes (top) and newly enlarged holes (bottom). You can see it doesn't take much:
[quoted image]
Let's hope Stern included a spare gate top decal in the goodie bag...
[quoted image]
Thanks guys, you did one thing right! Here's the completed bracket with newly installed decal:
[quoted image]
With the bracket out, I took the opportunity to wrap mylar around the back edge of the gate hole. Mylar doesn't stick well to bare wood, so I removed the insert LED near the hole and ran mylar right up to the insert edge:
[quoted image]
When reinstalled, the insert LED will help hold the mylar in place.
Now the gate moves freely, just in front of the back edge. Hooray! But since it's no longer hanging on the lip, it sits too low, especially on the right side:
[quoted image]
After adjusting the stop screws, our gate now sits perfectly, a hair above playfield height:
[quoted image]
This combined with a paper-thin gap behind the gate, and mylar, will hopefully protect our back hole edge from direct hits & chipping.
[quoted image]
Phew, all done. Raptor area plays perfectly now. Any questions?

I was all set to do this as I had the same symptoms, but I got under there and it appears my bracket had just bent back, I suppose from being hit so many times. I could bend it back with my hands. I’m thinking I might need a new bracket, I’ll see if this holds, but if that easy to bend back, I’m guessing it’s weaker.

#8585 3 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

All dino eyes are made and shipped, and I have enough components to sell just one additional set. The first person to PM me who can pay today gets them. I may do another run down the line if I get at least 10 commitments, but as it stands now this is your last chance if you wanted them but missed out before.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/171#post-6775685
[quoted image]

Awesome easy mod

#8586 3 months ago

Has anyone had any issues swapping between SD cards with Movie code and new connected code for achievements?

#8587 3 months ago
Quoted from JohnDeere:

Has anyone had any issues swapping between SD cards with Movie code and new connected code for achievements?

None, I've done this with the latest code and the older code. I just swap back and forth if I want to

1 week later
#8588 3 months ago

For you official Stern topper owners. How would you rate it? Are the extra modes worth it? I kinda like the idea of how the progress transfers from game to game.

Thanks

#8589 3 months ago
Quoted from SimpleSkin:

For you official Stern topper owners. How would you rate it? Are the extra modes worth it? I kinda like the idea of how the progress transfers from game to game.
Thanks

I like it a lot but I like toppers in general.

The goat mode is fun.

#8590 3 months ago
Quoted from SimpleSkin:

For you official Stern topper owners. How would you rate it? Are the extra modes worth it? I kinda like the idea of how the progress transfers from game to game.
Thanks

Don't buy it just for the new mode. Most of the time when the new mode is qualified for me, the ball drains and I never get to start it. Then you have to progress all over again. It's not a great mode anyways. It's a gimmick to sell toppers.

#8591 3 months ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

I like it a lot but I like toppers in general.
The goat mode is fun.

You get Goat mode w/ SIC which is 250 not 2k.

#8592 3 months ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

I like it a lot but I like toppers in general.
The goat mode is fun.

Quoted from seenev:

Don't buy it just for the new mode. Most of the time when the new mode is qualified for me, the ball drains and I never get to start it. Then you have to progress all over again. It's not a great mode anyways. It's a gimmick to sell toppers.

I have never bought a topper and don't think they are needed, however when my Premium arrives from the next run it will live next to my Lost World which came with a topper. Hmm tough call. Thanks for the input.

66823204672__FD1B8E07-FBA9-4F24-A97D-9252B794617C (resized).jpeg
#8593 3 months ago
Quoted from SimpleSkin:

I have never bought a topper and don't think they are needed, however when my Premium arrives from the next run it will live next to my Lost World which came with a topper. Hmm tough call. Thanks for the input.[quoted image]

Toppers are definitely not necessary but it's really a personal preference on the look. Just like installing a bunch of mods or pinblades. Not necessary yet many like to do it.

I like having all the machines looking the "same".

Toppers (resized).jpg
1 week later
#8594 3 months ago

Double posting because of having two stupid JP threads:

Does anyone have the Coin Taker Backbox Lighting Kit installed on their JP? Would love to see a video of it and get thoughts.

https://cointaker.com/products/stern-led-backbox-kit

#8595 3 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Double posting because of having two stupid JP threads:
Does anyone have the Coin Taker Backbox Lighting Kit installed on their JP? Would love to see a video of it and get thoughts.
https://cointaker.com/products/stern-led-backbox-kit

Bump two stupid JP thread elimination LOL

#8596 3 months ago

Anyone know if any Stern JP armour will be available again?

Thanks Martin

#8597 3 months ago
Quoted from marspinball:

Anyone know if any Stern JP armour will be available again?
Thanks Martin

I spent two of the last three months on Pinside posting and scanning for anyone selling. I called everywhere with no avail. I finally got very lucky and found a set for $550. I wish you and everyone else looking the best of luck in finding this armor..it looks great on the machine. I too am hoping Stern does re-release some more of these for those of us interested in preserving these awesome pins. I plan to buy another premium (used) in the future and hope to have another armor set of to put on it.

I’m posting a pic of my machine…the armor is powered coated.

JP rocks!
Best pin ever?…I think so.

DA28918C-DC34-427A-BEFC-E40FE44CBA6A (resized).jpeg
#8598 89 days ago

Has anyone had an issue with their T-Rex not being responsive? It won’t drop down to the ramp to catch the ball during applicable modes? It does move horizontally and vertically but seems confused on the movement.

#8599 89 days ago
Quoted from splitcms:

Has anyone had an issue with their T-Rex not being responsive? It won’t drop down to the ramp to catch the ball during applicable modes? It does move horizontally and vertically but seems confused on the movement.

Does it work properly and the switches register in test mode?

#8600 89 days ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Does it work properly and the switches register in test mode?

Are you referring to the t-Rex horizontal and vertical diagnostic? If so, yes.

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