Jurassic Park (Limited Edition)
Stern, 2019
Jurassic Park (Premium)
Stern, 2019Quoted from PinDescabarian:Does anyone know of a good company for plastic protectors for this game?
Take a look at colorguardprotectors.com they have a 6 piece with the main four in orange hue. Pinballlife.com has the 4 piece green hue or clear style
Quoted from rob3:I played the JP home pin. Felt pretty much like a real pinball machine, also lots of similar features in simplistic form. The screen size was a mistake tho. I think they could have gone an inch or two more and it would still have felt smaller but not crazy small.
I’d def say it’s a real pinball machine - just not sure it makes sense for the price for anyone who’s ever owned a modern machine. Might as well pay more for a full experience and rule set.
There’s another thread for the home pin. Also another thread for the JP pro pin.
Quoted from PinDescabarian:Does anyone know of a good company for plastic protectors for this game?
I have this set and am really happy with it.
https://mezelmods.com/collections/jurassic-park-pinball-stern/products/clip-protector-set-jurassic-park-pinball?variant=32515131670625
Here are some photos
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/6m5emtduly6zlod/AAA3BIRPOX55C5d0oLXWyV0Aa?dl=0
Quoted from timlah79:Update on the T-rex ramp plastic...
Got the new plastics from ULEK. They claimed these ones are PETG, not acrylic but I can't tell the difference. Tried out the "donut" method Cliffy suggested using mini 7/16" silicone post rubbers. At first I tried cutting up post sleeves but they were a little too wide.
For the front two screws, I didn't bother cutting them in half (not a very easy thing to do BTW) since I am still using the black plastic spacers beneath. I just didn't want any metal on plastic. I screwed them in pretty tight -- enough to "squash" the rubbers a bit. Hopefully that's not too much stress. If the screws begin to loosen I'll probably got back in with some locktite.
For the rear connection I did cut a rubber in half like a donut. One half b/t the washer and the top of the plastic guard, the other between the bottom of the plastic guard and the metal opto bracket. I had to find a longer screw in order to make it work.
I also didn't heat/bend the plastic this first time around. I just let it do its natural curve. I want to see how long this holds up as is. See photos below, I'll report back!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Following up on this as promised. Good news. It's been almost 2 months of playing regularly and my T-Rex ramp plastic is still in tact, no cracks or issues. Therefore, I'm considering this genius solution by Cliffy (making rubber "donuts" + ensuring the ramp is PETG, not acrylic) a viable way to keep your ramp plastic in tact. So I've marked it as a key post to help others. If / when it decides to break again I'll surely let everyone know. So far so good!
I’m having a strange issue with my new Jurassic Park Premium. This worked the first few games, but now no. The raptor cage. When the post comes up to trap the ball the gate does not come up to hold it. Gate stays down. Gate works fine in the tests, both switches register. Thoughts?
Quoted from EricHadley:I’m having a strange issue with my new Jurassic Park Premium. This worked the first few games, but now no. The raptor cage. When the post comes up to trap the ball the gate does not come up to hold it. Gate stays down. Gate works fine in the tests, both switches register. Thoughts?
There's an opto in the back of the raptor pen (just behind the up-post), which I believe is used to sense the ball has been caught by the up-post. Check if the opto is working
Quoted from Manny65:There's an opto in the back of the raptor pen (just behind the up-post), which I believe is used to sense the ball has been caught by the up-post. Check if the opto is working
Ah, i bet thats what it is. I thought I saw an opto hole in there but only saw the hole on one side and when i tried a switch test nothing happened so I assume there wasn’t actually an opto there. So makes sense there is and it’s not working. I will dig into it tomorrow. I had the raptor pen apart a while back so I bet I blocked one of the sides of the opto by mistake. Thanks!
Anyone else been waiting on a T-Rex Assembly replacement? Diagnosed with Stern and put in a warranty replacement request (approved) back in June. Been reaching out on and off with no response - does it usually take 6 months to get a replacement part? Ridiculous.
Need some help with my T-Rex on my JP LE. I will try to explain thoroughly the background and issue at hand.
30 days ago, my LE's T-Rex's mouth magnet was acting up--It was failing to hold the ball. Instead of messing with that existing assembly's specific issue (since replacing that coil + magnet looked daunting), I replaced my entire T-Rex assembly with a brand new assembly (a far later model than my old LE had, basically the "newer" version that newer Prem owners have--but AFAIK the only difference is the head mold). I have Lior's head mold, so I took that off of the old assembly and put it on the new. The head mold is irrelevant to my issues now but worth mentioning. The new assembly install was perfect, no issues whatsoever, no need to make any software or hardware adjustments or anything. Just mounted it and called it a day. It was working like a charm until tonight. Again this was barely 30 days ago, a brand new assembly.
Tonight out of nowhere, the T-rex started jittering during T-Rex MB when thrashing to the left (an issue I know many have faced). In tandem it seemed as if the jaw wasn't closing all the way all the time. I couldn't get it to do the jittering in Horiz or Vert test, only during gameplay BTW. The jaw issue was intermittent in gameplay and in Vert test. My biggest concern was the jittering, not the jaw issue. I figured that something had gone out of alignment physically. So I pulled the assembly off and inspected it thoroughly. Nothing physically stood out. The set screw to the gear was totally tight, nothing else loose or missing hardware wise. The jaw mech seemed just fine. So I put it back on.
Result = same issues and worse. Please continue reading....
I then decided that maybe the motor level bracket was coming loose, giving the assembly the wrong height, stressing the motor or something. So I started looking into adjusting that. As I loosened the nuts that hold that motor bracket, one of the screws came out of the wood entirely. Looking closer, I now saw that the playfield's back wood hole for said screw was completely spread open. I have been unable to reattach the screw that came out of it because of that. I can screw and screw and it just doesn't reattach. I'm unsure if the screw itself broke in half and the other half is embedded in the hole still or what (AFAIK it's impossible to see how these are actually mounted to the wood without removing all kinds of stuff from the other side of the PF wood on the back + the wood panel itself). Plus as you can see from the photos, another one of those motor bracket "holes" where the screw itself has not (yet) come out was also beginning to tear apart. I can only assume that screw is about to fall out too any day now.
I've tried retightening all 3 of the remaining motor mount nuts whose screws have not pulled out, moving the mech up and down via the motor bracket, testing over and over again at each position I'm able to. The original jittering keeps occurring in both gameplay and Horiz test. In fact now the tests are being weird. The Horiz is not finding actual home for example. The test is displaying that its moving to crazy xxx # positions when the t-rex is simply going to expected positions.
My questions:
1. How do I "revive" these wooden hole mounts that are now obviously spread apart? Do I need to order and install an entirely new playfield back wood and possibly purchase new hardware? I am very concerned about the motor hole mounts + that I now only have 3 mounts holding that motor bracket--How sustainable could this be over time even if I get it working again as is? Advice here?
I think that is what started all of the above aka has allowed the T-Rex old or new assemblies to go out of alignment. As you probably know if you've dug into that area, the motor assembly mount is separate from any given T-Rex assembly itself. A new assembly simply connects to that motor mount via the plastic arm.
2. Is the broken screw actually broken or is that the full screw and literally how short it is + it just screws into the wooden hole, relying on that hole itself to keep it there?
3. Does my above description indicate anything wrong with this brand new T-Rex assembly I installed < 30 days ago? If I remove it again, what should I check within the assembly itself?
Below are pics I was able to take of the screw that came out of the wood + the cracked/spread wood holes of the other one that is about to come out any day.
BTW yes you will see that the nuts have been taken completely off in that one pic. I know that's not advised but this was later aka after the one screw had broken off entirely. I had to remove the bracket in order to feebly attempt to get the broken screw back in which I am not able to due to the wood hole being cracked.
broken screw (resized).jpgscrew about to come out (resized).jpgscrew hole that is effed (resized).jpg
Quoted from timlah79:Need some help with my T-Rex on my JP LE. I will try to explain thoroughly the background and issue at hand.
30 days ago, my LE's T-Rex's mouth magnet was acting up--It was failing to hold the ball. Instead of messing with that existing assembly's specific issue (since replacing that coil + magnet looked daunting), I replaced my entire T-Rex assembly with a brand new assembly (a far later model than my old LE had, basically the "newer" version that newer Prem owners have--but AFAIK the only difference is the head mold). I have Lior's head mold, so I took that off of the old assembly and put it on the new. The head mold is irrelevant to my issues now but worth mentioning. The new assembly install was perfect, no issues whatsoever, no need to make any software or hardware adjustments or anything. Just mounted it and called it a day. It was working like a charm until tonight. Again this was barely 30 days ago, a brand new assembly.
Tonight out of nowhere, the T-rex started jittering during T-Rex MB when thrashing to the left (an issue I know many have faced). In tandem it seemed as if the jaw wasn't closing all the way all the time. I couldn't get it to do the jittering in Horiz or Vert test, only during gameplay BTW. The jaw issue was intermittent in gameplay and in Vert test. My biggest concern was the jittering, not the jaw issue. I figured that something had gone out of alignment physically. So I pulled the assembly off and inspected it thoroughly. Nothing physically stood out. The set screw to the gear was totally tight, nothing else loose or missing hardware wise. The jaw mech seemed just fine. So I put it back on.
Result = same issues and worse. Please continue reading....
I then decided that maybe the motor level bracket was coming loose, giving the assembly the wrong height, stressing the motor or something. So I started looking into adjusting that. As I loosened the nuts that hold that motor bracket, one of the screws came out of the wood entirely. Looking closer, I now saw that the playfield's back wood hole for said screw was completely spread open. I have been unable to reattach the screw that came out of it because of that. I can screw and screw and it just doesn't reattach. I'm unsure if the screw itself broke in half and the other half is embedded in the hole still or what (AFAIK it's impossible to see how these are actually mounted to the wood without removing all kinds of stuff from the other side of the PF wood on the back + the wood panel itself). Plus as you can see from the photos, another one of those motor bracket "holes" where the screw itself has not (yet) come out was also beginning to tear apart. I can only assume that screw is about to fall out too any day now.
I've tried retightening all 3 of the remaining motor mount nuts whose screws have not pulled out, moving the mech up and down via the motor bracket, testing over and over again at each position I'm able to. The original jittering keeps occurring in both gameplay and Horiz test. In fact now the tests are being weird. The Horiz is not finding actual home for example. The test is displaying that its moving to crazy xxx # positions when the t-rex is simply going to expected positions.
My questions:
1. How do I "revive" these wooden hole mounts that are now obviously spread apart? Do I need to order and install an entirely new playfield back wood and possibly purchase new hardware? I am very concerned about the motor hole mounts + that I now only have 3 mounts holding that motor bracket--How sustainable could this be over time even if I get it working again as is? Advice here?
I think that is what started all of the above aka has allowed the T-Rex old or new assemblies to go out of alignment. As you probably know if you've dug into that area, the motor assembly mount is separate from any given T-Rex assembly itself. A new assembly simply connects to that motor mount via the plastic arm.
2. Is the broken screw actually broken or is that the full screw and literally how short it is + it just screws into the wooden hole, relying on that hole itself to keep it there?
3. Does my above description indicate anything wrong with this brand new T-Rex assembly I installed < 30 days ago? If I remove it again, what should I check within the assembly itself?
Below are pics I was able to take of the screw that came out of the wood + the cracked/spread wood holes of the other one that is about to come out any day.
BTW yes you will see that the nuts have been taken completely off in that one pic. I know that's not advised but this was later aka after the one screw had broken off entirely. I had to remove the bracket in order to feebly attempt to get the broken screw back in which I am not able to due to the wood hole being cracked.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
It looks like a nylock nut on the end of a broken stud, hard to tell from just the one picture of it.
That looks like a machine screw, not a wood screw in which case that hole was drilled bigger than it in the first place.
Not sure how those are mounted, just a guess would be a stud similar to the one you have to take out for the shooter lane cliffy. Maybe a T-nut.
The quick and dirty would be to get a wood screw a hair shorter than that one, put some wood glue in and fill the hole with toothpicks.
Cut off the toothpicks when the glue dries and screw away. Or a shorter fatter screw.
I'd be wary of that screw working its way loose over time.
I would try to fix it the correct way, that stud should be replaceable.
It'll probably be some work but it is doable and probably worth it in the long run.
Stern may be able to help identify the correct part so you don't have to disassemble it all to find out before ordering a new one.
'Need some help with my T-Rex on my JP LE. I will try to explain thoroughly the background and issue at hand.
30 days ago, my LE's T-Rex's mouth magnet was acting up--It was failing to hold the ball'
Mine is doing this. Anyone fix their assembly with this issue? The coil test for the t Rex mouth does fire and grab the ball.
My T-Rex only consistently grabs the ball on the start of Feed T-Rex multiball. The other T-Rex modes it's far less consistent but does work. Any idea what I should adjust? Thanks!
Quoted from J-Freeze:It looks like a nylock nut on the end of a broken stud, hard to tell from just the one picture of it.
That looks like a machine screw, not a wood screw in which case that hole was drilled bigger than it in the first place.
Not sure how those are mounted, just a guess would be a stud similar to the one you have to take out for the shooter lane cliffy. Maybe a T-nut.
The quick and dirty would be to get a wood screw a hair shorter than that one, put some wood glue in and fill the hole with toothpicks.
Cut off the toothpicks when the glue dries and screw away. Or a shorter fatter screw.
I'd be wary of that screw working its way loose over time.
I would try to fix it the correct way, that stud should be replaceable.
It'll probably be some work but it is doable and probably worth it in the long run.
Stern may be able to help identify the correct part so you don't have to disassemble it all to find out before ordering a new one.
Thanks man. Of course I can't find that screw in the manual or I'm blind. I found the other end sticking out under the ramp. It did in fact break in half. Do you or anyone know what this type of screw is called? I'm not under warranty, otherwise I'd ask Stern support.
Also isn't there a guide that goes over how to physically calibrate the t-rex? I don't mean the one that speaks to the motor bracket height. I'm looking for instructions on adjusting the set screw that attaches the assembly's "transmission" or maybe its called the switch cam? Because now my t-rex is doing its crazy jitter thing not only when it goes all the way left, but as soon as it hits center on its way to the left. I feel like adjusting that might fix my issue or its transmission is just busted. PM me if you want to see a video. Thanks!
Sorry for the blurry images.
PXL_20211210_042543608 (resized).jpgPXL_20211210_042726594 (resized).png
Quoted from timlah79:Thanks man. Of course I can't find that screw in the manual or I'm blind. I found the other end sticking out under the ramp. It did in fact break in half. Do you or anyone know what this type of screw is called? I'm not under warranty, otherwise I'd ask Stern support.
Also isn't there a guide that goes over how to physically calibrate the t-rex? I don't mean the one that speaks to the motor bracket height. I'm looking for instructions on adjusting the set screw that attaches the assembly's "transmission" or maybe its called the switch cam? Because now my t-rex is doing its crazy jitter thing not only when it goes all the way left, but as soon as it hits center on its way to the left. I feel like adjusting that might fix my issue or its transmission is just busted. PM me if you want to see a video. Thanks!
Sorry for the blurry images.
[quoted image][quoted image]
That's similar to a pop bumper screw https://www.pinballlife.com/pop-bumper-bracket-mounting-screws-fin-screws.html - the only thing would be whether it's the same thread size and screw length. Maybe the manual mentions the pop bumper screw part number and you can compare the thread size.
Can't offer any advice on T-Rex as I haven't had to disassemble mine (touch wood)
Quoted from Manny65:That's similar to a pop bumper screw https://www.pinballlife.com/pop-bumper-bracket-mounting-screws-fin-screws.html - the only thing would be whether it's the same thread size and screw length. Maybe the manual mentions the pop bumper screw part number and you can compare the thread size.
Can't offer any advice on T-Rex as I haven't had to disassemble mine (touch wood)
You are the MAN Manny65 !!! Just found it hiding in the 5.60 BACK PANEL ASSEMBLY page 63.
#14 237-5921-04 FIN SHANK SCREW - 7/8" LG.
It's labeled #14 but the pic only shows #15 for the nut itself.
I think its similar or maybe the same as this one at Marcos https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/237-5921-04
2021-12-10_14-12-16 (resized).png2021-12-10_14-12-58 (resized).png
PXL_20211210_222153222 (resized).jpgQuoted from timlah79:You are the MAN Manny65 !!! Just found it hiding in the 5.60 BACK PANEL ASSEMBLY page 63.
#14 237-5921-04 FIN SHANK SCREW - 7/8" LG.
It's labeled #14 but the pic only shows #15 for the nut itself.
I think its similar or maybe the same as this one at Marcos https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/237-5921-04
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Nice work Tim!! I've seen Stern use zinc screws in some places that do have a tendency to break, however I'd think these would be steel (unsure from your images) - either way be careful you don't over-tighten (you could either pull the screw head through the backboard or snap it off). There were issues with the early Pros and our LE's with the factory over-tightening screws, typically pulling the ball guides into the PF clear ... so it is possible this screw was damaged (but yet maybe not fully broken) in the factory
Quoted from timlah79:Also isn't there a guide that goes over how to physically calibrate the t-rex? I don't mean the one that speaks to the motor bracket height. I'm looking for instructions on adjusting the set screw that attaches the assembly's "transmission" or maybe its called the switch cam? Because now my t-rex is doing its crazy jitter thing not only when it goes all the way left, but as soon as it hits center on its way to the left. I feel like adjusting that might fix my issue or its transmission is just busted. PM me if you want to see a video. Thanks!
As a follow up to what started all of this t-rex jittering madness, I have been able to compare/contrast my old t-rex assembly cam shaft and all other parts within and make parity with my new assembly. My old assembly did not have the jittering problem, just the holding the ball magnet problem. After I matched everything up to the new from the old it does look like my cam shaft was slipping and not in alignment (I'm still looking for anyone that has a guide to this BTW). If so, please post it and mark it as a key post.
I reinstalled the new assembly yet again, after going through that and the jittering has gone away. BUT in the end I think all of my original jittering problems AND my jaw not closing all the way were due to that damn back plastic. You can put smaller spacers in but that doesn't necessarily solve the problem. With smaller spacers, there is more likelihood of the arm in the assembly to contact the "square cutout" of the back plastic. In other words, you can get jittering if the back of the t-rex's neck contacts the back plastic OR you can have the same issue if the mechanics of the assembly contact the inside of the square cutout. If the lower jaw pushes against it too then the jaw goes out of alignment and won't close all the way.
Without the plastic at all I was able to resolve the jittering AND jaw not closing all the way issue. Anything I tried with the back plastic on reintroduced one or both issues. Therefore I'm saying "eff" that back plastic. It's not "pretty" without it but that lets the t-rex have as much room as it needs. I am probably going to leave things as is since they are working again. But if I revisit putting the plastic back on I will probably end up cutting it so that it's square cutout is larger and cannot interfere. For now, I can live without the plastic because having this thing work is the most important. What a crapshow...
Added 17 months ago:Follow-up to adjusting the T-Rex switch cam/crank shaft. I still had some jittering at times even after just removing that back plastic altogether. This is how I readjusted and the issue has disappeared completely now:
1. With the T-Rex assembly in hand, loosen the set screw attached to the transmission (using a small allen wrench.
2. Holding the assembly with the head down and transmission facing up. Center the head. Note that in this position the crank should not be triggering/pushing the switch.
3. Apply a tiny amount of loctite and tighten the set screw.
4. Re-install the assembly, and reset home by running the horiz and vert tests. In horiz test, test the thrashing function.
5. Check for proper operation in gameplay, specifically during T-Rex MB when she thrashes.
I just made a how to post on quickly swapping SD cards with off the shelf parts for anyone wanting to swap between code versions.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/spike-2-how-to-quickly-swap-sd-cards#post-6649754
Quoted from NoSkills:My T-Rex only consistently grabs the ball on the start of Feed T-Rex multiball. The other T-Rex modes it's far less consistent but does work. Any idea what I should adjust? Thanks!
I've gone through the thread for suggestions again and checked both the mouth opto and ramp opto in switch test. Both work 100% even if lifting the ball slightly from the ramp, plus I have the stern metal thing fix on the left side of the ramp as its a later build. The magnet also seemed to work fine in coil test. T-rex is all aligned. The only other thing I can think of is I recently changed my pitch to 7.3 from 6.7, I feel like I'm still hitting it clean but maybe I'm not. I'll change the pitch back and see if that helps. If anyone has any other suggestions in the meantime I'd be very grateful
Quoted from NoSkills:I've gone through the thread for suggestions again and checked both the mouth opto and ramp opto in switch test. Both work 100% even if lifting the ball slightly from the ramp, plus I have the stern metal thing fix on the left side of the ramp as its a later build. The magnet also seemed to work fine in coil test. T-rex is all aligned. The only other thing I can think of is I recently changed my pitch to 7.3 from 6.7, I feel like I'm still hitting it clean but maybe I'm not. I'll change the pitch back and see if that helps. If anyone has any other suggestions in the meantime I'd be very grateful
I'd suggest taking slow motion video of the ball entering the mouth off of some shots. Then compare what's happening on a catch vs. what's happening on a miss. Set up the camera so you can get a side view to see if the ball is making it all the way into the mouth or if it's maybe bouncing up and hitting the front part of the roof of the mouth.
Quoted from rob3:I guess ill ask stern? Didn’t realize I’d stump the thread.
IMO don't bother Stern with this question, it's really up to your preference. You can't see the coil when playing the game and the paper wrap is only to identify the coil AFAIK. The coil is identified in the manual if you ever need to replace it. If you can sleep at night knowing your pin doesn't have a paper wrap on a hidden coil then just pull it off and keep playing 
Quoted from rob3:The paper sleeve around the coil inside my trex mouth has come off. Should I take the time to open this up and reapply, or just pull it out?
[quoted image]
If that was my game, I would put the paper back in. If the coil comes loose it can short on the metal jaw.
Thx all. Good to have a few perspectives. Guess it wouldn’t hurt to take it apart? Kind of worried about it going back together right. Def don’t want this part changing behavior.
Quoted from rob3:Thx all. Good to have a few perspectives. Guess it wouldn’t hurt to take it apart? Kind of worried about it going back together right. Def don’t want this part changing behavior.
After doing a very small tweak on my Dino mounting and finding out just how sensitive it is to adjustment I will now not touch it again unless it is really necessary.
Read this thread https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/why-are-coils-wrapped-in-paper
Got my insider connected kit today. I see now how they can track code reversion. Part of the install is installing an additional 32GB micro SD as additional memory for the CPU board. Didn't even realize the board had a microSD slot.
I know I'm in the minority here but personally I found the movie code ok but it certainly didn't "make the game" for me. I'm a pinball player not a noob that needs to link the theme with something familiar. I didn't like most of the movie callouts anyway. While they were funny/good ones from the movie they have nothing to do with the actual game play on the pinball so no big loss.
I didn't mind losing the movie code for IC.
Quoted from MrMikeman:Got my insider connected kit today. I see now how they can track code reversion. Part of the install is installing an additional 32GB micro SD as additional memory for the CPU board. Didn't even realize the board had a microSD slot.
I know I'm in the minority here but personally I found the movie code ok but it certainly didn't "make the game" for me. I'm a pinball player not a noob that needs to link the theme with something familiar. I didn't like most of the movie callouts anyway. While they were funny/good ones from the movie they have nothing to do with the actual game play on the pinball so no big loss.
I didn't mind losing the movie code for IC.
So if you like the movie code you are a noob and not a pinball player. Got it. 
Quoted from rob3:So if you like the movie code you are a noob and not a pinball player. Got it.
lol. Not really. Poorly worded on my part.
I don’t need a familiar reference to a popular movie to “get” it. If you enjoy just playing pinball the game is awesome and can stand on its own with its own story line.
Quoted from dacdjsteve:Just joined the club! It's been awhile since I've purchased a machine so went crazy ordering all the mods I want to install! Good thing I'm on PTO the next two weeks!
[quoted image]
Congrats! What you order?
Quoted from JMCFAN:Congrats! What you order?
Thanks! Loving and yelling at the game all day long! So fun! 
So far, I've ordered:
Amber light up shooter rod
Matchbox Helicopter
Jada Jurassic Park 1:32 Scale Jeep Wrangler
Shaker Motor
Stern Topper (Still available from Marco Specialties if anyone is looking)
and an assortment of mods from Mezel Mods
Quoted from dacdjsteve:Thanks! Loving and yelling at the game all day long! So fun!
So far, I've ordered:
Amber light up shooter rod
Matchbox Helicopter
Jada Jurassic Park 1:32 Scale Jeep Wrangler
Shaker Motor
Stern Topper (Still available from Marco Specialties if anyone is looking)
and an assortment of mods from Mezel Mods
Put the shaker in tonight if you already have it. It makes all the other effort worth your time. The shaker is an easy 30 minute install with instant and very tangible gratification.
Quoted from MrMikeman:Got my insider connected kit today. I see now how they can track code reversion. Part of the install is installing an additional 32GB micro SD as additional memory for the CPU board. Didn't even realize the board had a microSD slot.
I know I'm in the minority here but personally I found the movie code ok but it certainly didn't "make the game" for me. I'm a pinball player not a noob that needs to link the theme with something familiar. I didn't like most of the movie callouts anyway. While they were funny/good ones from the movie they have nothing to do with the actual game play on the pinball so no big loss.
I didn't mind losing the movie code for IC.
Can you give a bit more detail? You upgraded code and installed the IC kit. Before doing that did you have the customized movie audio/video? is it possible to revert to that if you decide not to use IC kit?
Quoted from Markharris2000:Put the shaker in tonight if you already have it. It makes all the other effort worth your time. The shaker is an easy 30 minute install with instant and very tangible gratification.
Will do! Shaker getting delivered today and got these recently.
Image from iOS (11) (resized).jpgQuoted from dacdjsteve:Will do! Shaker getting delivered today and got these recently.[quoted image]
See my previous note about using painters tape on the cabinet BEFORE you remove the old shooter plate. That will mark the exact position. Makes the replacement with the amber one much easier.
Quoted from yzfguy:Wow, you come across really arrogant when you say that those of us who love the movie code must be noobs.
Wow. Overly sensitive much? I already replied that I didn’t mean like that. Relax and go enjoy your movie code!
Quoted from yzfguy:Well, I deleted my comment after I saw that. But I still think you sound condescending
Well. Now i did lol
Bought this game earlier this year. Love it. Over the last couple of months we've noticed that the ball is getting stuck right above this C lock. Shaking the game doesn't get it out then the game launches it and the ball smacks the glass hard. I've just bought the voodoo glass so I'm paranoid it will eventually break the glass. Anyone else have this problem?
PXL_20211218_033618990 (resized).jpgQuoted from Johnbeatle:Bought this game earlier this year. Love it. Over the last couple of months we've noticed that the ball is getting stuck right above this C lock. Shaking the game doesn't get it out then the game launches it and the ball smacks the glass hard. I've just bought the voodoo glass so I'm paranoid it will eventually break the glass. Anyone else have this problem?
[quoted image]
That post above the "C" is WAY too low. The top of the post should be flush with the playfield. It's easy to adjust. Here's a link to a post I made showing where the nut is to adjust the height of it:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/116#post-5763899
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Fremont, CA
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