Nice to hear.... will probably add. I had a palm tree on the left side... Trex would contact it...and throw the calibration off. Pulled it and no issues now...

Where you get small goat...?

It's the playmobil goat, look on ebay.

This was a playmobil goat that I bought from the web and then painted and built the chain and post. Fun little DIY project. A while back I posted it here and some pinsiders asked me to build them some so I made this link for anyone interested in one.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-goat-mod#post-6397976

Should not be hard for anyone to make.

I used this one. Had to sharpie on some spots but it had the right size and nice details. I used an electrical loop crimp on his leg to hold him in place using an existing nut.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B099DXQJVB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title

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Hi there! I seem to be having some issues with my T-Rex. I am walking through the steps of realignment. I am doing the horizontal motor test. It is saying “Please Wait: Homing Motors” and has been saying it for a while. How long is this supposed to take?

15-20 sec

Yikes. Mine is not taking 15-20 seconds. It is going way longer. And not stopping. What should I do? I’ve only had the machine for a couple months. When playing the game it seems to be in a constant loop of moving head side to side, not coming down for mouth grab on multiball setup

Have done some more testing. It just seems to go left right left right, non stop. It seems like the motor works fine, but I’m thinking something is off with sensors, I have no clue. I can’t find any comparable posts with this issue.

Love the stacon ! Great Idea!

Fix for:
“ PLEASE WAIT: HOMING MOTORS ” loop.
Or T-Rex going left and right loop.

Good news! I fixed it. Adding my fix to help put people who will surely have this issue in the feature.

There is a sensor that the T-Rex interacts with seen circled in the picture.

The red arrow that is pointing down is what the piece had been moved to. The green arrow is the direction I pushed it to get it back in place. Once testing the game it is working now.

I’ve contacted stern to see, Is there something that I need to tighten to make this a permanent fix?
Edit: Make sure to tighten the screw with an Allen wrench that is mentioned in the post below to make this a Permian to fix. Do both over tighten though, only tighten a little bit. If over tightened it will mess up the T-Rex Mech
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I see the hint of a set-screw which is normally what needs to be tightened. I circled in purple.

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Awesome, thank you. I ended up figuring this out and was just coming back to note this.

So I am too cheap to buy the 35Euro Pteranodon mod https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1338-pino-pinball-mods-shop/05234-pteranodon
I found this one on Amazon for 10 bucks. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GL1BHO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00
Drilled a small hole into his body and mounted him with a piece of AWG 14 wire and voila!
The wire is flimsy enough that he shakes around - kind of like he is flying - it is a cool effect.
Now I have money left for a beer.
Cheers!

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That's the way to do it. Actually, the Papa Pteranodon mod has been covered ad nauseam, and introduced well over a year ago before someone started bundling it as a ready-to-install mod. This is one of the challenges of having 2 threads for the same pin title: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park/page/79#post-5465806

FYI, I had mine painted blue to match the one on the game's art: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park/page/179#post-6059089

I did the same!

I used piano wire and went to a mount under the backside of the loop ramp so the wire is a lot less visible. It is a fairly simple mod, just drill the figure a new butt hole and preform the wire to the correct length and it is done. Mine bounces around very little and is positioned to not block the view of any inserts or ball movement.

Has there been any advents in keeping the the T-Rex ramp plastic guard from cracking? I'm now on my 4th one and keep having to order them from Ulek at $8 a pop. One of the primary reasons it cracks all the time seems to be that the replacements are not curved so there is constant stress on the left hand screw points. I've tried different washers, heating up and creating a curve in it myself, going looser or tighter with the screws, going with or without the post plastic spacers, etc. and the dang thing keeps breaking. The only replacement I've found is the one in question from Ulek. Curious if anyone has made one that perhaps is made of a more durable/flexible plastic that conforms to the curve needed to screw it on without stressing it out?

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Seems like you could get a piece of petg and cut one out yourself and then heat it along the bend area with a heat shrink gun to form the correct angle. Once thats done I'd mount with minipost donut rings sliced in half like a bagel. You may just create a little market for yourself!

I would contact ULEK. They should be making them out of PETG. Looks like that is acrylic in order to crack like that. I've been happy with the items I bought from them, so they would probably welcome the feedback.

Thinking of grabbing a premium JP in the next run but one thing I'm not clear on is whether or not the custom code with the actual movie clips will continue to work with the "insider connect" stuff. Do we have an answer one way or the other yet and I just missed it? I'd hate to pick up a JP and then find I can't swap out the SD Card...

Jeff

First, Jurassic Park is an amazing game, with or without the custom A/V gamecode SDCARD.

Second, the new microcode on the last run of GOTG forced a new SDCARD. I expect that the new connected updates for all '17 Spike2 machines' will also create new SDcards for each of them. That's alot of new SDCARDS coming. Now, assuming that there is no technical deal-breaker in these new SDCARD files (like the use of the new node boards that *could* have some kind of security checking built-in to assure the SDCARD image is factory)....

If the security hardware issue mentioned above is found to not exist, then its two steps:
1) Pinball Browser must support the specific image. We'll see if oga83 can support any of these newest sdcard images.
2) The authors of these custom A/V versions of the SDCARDs must be willing to spend the time to converts their previous work to the new version.

Genius! I will try that half donut method with the new ones.

Fantastic advice, thank you! I did message them and they came back saying they will cut the new ones from PETG. I assume they were going to do acrylic again if I hadn't asked. Will report back once I get them!

There were a few posts around misaligned raptors. Really only notice after trying to install the mezelmods raptor pen. Mine seems to be facing players left. Before I go trying to apply heat to bend the raptor did anyone align better another way?

I don't know that anyone posted a proven 'fix' to reposition the raptor other than using heat. It's actually quite easy. I suggest that if you get your heat gun out, go slowly to heat the arm for 30-45 seconds to allow ALL of the material in the arm to be fully softened, you should be able to reposition the arm without any resistence. If any resistence, then apply more heat, slowly. THENlet it cool in the new position. It will work fine...

Hi - I did it differently - see post 7839: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/157#post-6415202
I took the raptor off and drilled the holes larger so I could rotate it. Has been working ever since.
Good luck!

Thanks for the replies. I didn't think of drilling larger holes to rotate but that pen isn't a quick disassemble!

Agreed - the disassembly was not quick nor easy. The heating method definitely is easier but someone reported difficulty in getting the raptor to stay after cooling. I think that is why the latest instructions say to heat slowly and for longer time to allow internal plastic to become soft and then set properly with new shape.
Best Regards,
Richard

That may have been me... I ended up buying a pencil heat gun so I could get it hot enough with blasting the rest of the playfield... been holding fine since i did. If Lior comes out with a replacement I will change it out though,.....

Good news is I fixed the raptor with some heat and zip ties. Then I got a ball stuck

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I've had the game over a year and only just now got to the visitor's center for the first time... And it was on ball 1. Pinball is strange sometimes.

Huge! I’m 3 months in and feel like I’m 9 from everything aligning to get to visitors center, but that’s why I love this game - and pinball.

Congrats! What was your score?

It was in the 800,000,000 range. In true pinball tradition I blew it on the remaining balls. Wasn't even my highest score but it was the most satisfying game I've had though.

Thanks for looking into this. I'm having the same problem over and over and looking forward to seeing what you end up getting/doing so I can copy it!

Hi, if anyone is looking for the official topper from Stern, I have one that I'll sell for cost. Just PM me.

EDIT: Sold

Hey Guys, was super excited to get on wait-list to purchase JP Premium, but the wifey said I had to play it somewhere first. Ok, so we drove like an hour a way to play. And first thing we both noticed, the playfield, especially the island in the middle - is extremely dark (not lit up). All pictures everyone posts seem to show this playfield as being fairly vibrant Green. We looked around at other pinballs around us, and notice that most have lights exposed at bottom that illuminate upwards. This was a JP LE! And there are no lights there to be found. Any thoughts on this? Side note - this pinball arcade room was a fairly Dark Room in general.

I stole someone's previous image posted here. Notice the white floodlights beside the flippers. Notice how green the playfield above the flippers is. Almost totally dark there at site I played.

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Am sure I will see neg feedback.....but Pin Stadiums!! Have them on all my games...fully adjustable....

As long as you're happy with them,who cares what everyone else says. I have a Metallica Premium,and I really like the hammer ball lock. A lot of people hate it,and I really can't concern myself with what they like.

Definitely a strong wish list item for me! But just wondering if base core game has that central island playfield dark?

Pro/Prem/LE have no differences in playfield lighting. I also got pinstadiums as mentioned above.

They are awsome.... expensive.. but so cool

I have JP Premium and I think the lighting is fine without pinstadiums.

The other day I hit the truck Newton ball & it ricocheted directly into the T-Rex’s mouth! In the same game, I somehow shot the ball from the upper flipper into the T-Rex’s mouth! Two weird firsts in one game!

Dont over think it. Every modern game has pretty much the same return lane lighting next to the flippers. If it's not bright enough for your taste, add $10 worth of spot lights or $300 worth of pinstadiums. Or you could just use my approach, don't play in the pitch black of your basement batcave. I have Philips hue lighting in my game room and adjust my lights to a level that eliminates reflections, allows the game lighting to stand out, and yet still allow my old eyes to see everything on the pf. I don't even need to remove them when I lift my playfield either

Hi all, i have also purchased the Stern Jurassic Park Premium pinball ! Of course i only did so after reading every single comment in here and the ratings

I bought it brand new from SCHWAB Spielautomaten here in Switzerland. They have a delivery package which includes installing, software update, and testing. While the game is stunning, there were immidiately 3 things wrong with the game. I don't think SCHWAB Spielautomaten did a great job at all in testing the machine because:

1. The Kinetic ball with the car is difficult (heavy and not freely moving) to rotate and the ball gets stuck a LOT..
2. One of the soldering points on a motor from the T-rex is just OPEN! Not connected at all.
3. The Raptor cannot move because its tail is stuck behind the the metal plate next to it.

Wondering if these things are considered NORMAL for a brand new Stern machine..

Kind regards, A

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This is common on most all stock pinball machines. Also, photos are deceiving because of automatic exposure which typically allows more light in the lens that what the actual environment is. If you want to brighten things up you really have two options: Pinstadium lighting or you can mount spotlights on the upper bolt of the slings and position them how you like.

I've posted this before, but here is my JP stock on left and with Pinstadium at 50% brightness on right (if you look closely even the left pic is a little over exposed). As you can see the photos were taken in a dark room with no ambient lighting.

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Here's my game with just a warm white trough light and half size (10") backboard light. No camera tricks. It's a little dark in the middle of the playfield, but not bad at all. could add one spotlight and it would be lit entirely. pic was taken in a dark room so no everhead lighting.

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Yes, photos are deceiving and the Pinstadium pictures are notorious for that. Simply put the camera sees things different from the eyes and no JP ever looked like that picture on the left to the naked eye. I can play any of the Stern SPIKE, AP or Spooky games just fine with no lights on in the room whatsoever. That said, I do have a little light from above to help balance out the lighting at times where there is too much strobing or variation in the GI lighting for my liking. Pinstadium are great if you are streaming or if you have a JJP game with the pitiful light tube GI lights. Even still I would just add a few spot lights or more ambient light in the room.

Spot lights on each of the slings was my solution on my previous DE JP (along with some other well placed LED pads). Also, on my Getaway I added additional under plastic lighting as well as UV spots to make the center of the playfield glow. It really just depends and what you are going for. I like playing in a very dark room. Some playfields look great with some strategically placed additional lighting, but on others I want to brighten the entire playfield area.

BTW, the backboard on JP definitely needs illuminated IMO. For anyone who wants a simple DIY, here are my instructions: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park/page/175#post-6039886

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