Quoted from hawkmoon77:Got my LE tonight! Overall, pretty good. It is unfortunately missing some parts on the playfield. That's a bit disappointing. I need to call Stern tomorrow.
Wow! Missing parts! That is ridiculous!
(Topic ID: 248218)
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Jurassic Park (Limited Edition)
Stern, 2019-
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185 plays and my upper flipper post has come loose... Do you really have to remove the whole flipper assembly to get to the bolt? I may look for the skinniest needle nose pliers in existence...
https://photos.app.goo.gl/KBmybaXFNEHqQVeD6
My TRex now accepts balls in it's mouth on most all shots. Thanks for the advice KME!
#290 has arrived!
First I want to say that I am overall, very happy with it. It is very fun, and looks beautiful. I do have a few issues with it, but I guess that is to be expected with such a complicated machine. This is my experience with #290:
1. The raptor above the raptor cage does not move. In examining the LE/Premium Features video online and comparing it against the toy in my machine, it appears some parts are missing or were never installed on the playfield. Picture below. Notice the post that nothing is screwed into. The video does not show the mech very well. If anyone can send me a good picture of your working raptor mechanism, I'd appreciate it. Raptor (resized).jpg
2. The helicopter blades are hitting the ramp. I am not sure of the best way to adjust them.
3. One of the plastics in the front is chipped in a noticeable location. 20190925_081008 (resized).jpg
4. The T-rex mouth was open and clamped against the ramp and the spinner frame when it was unpacked. It was extremely hard to dislodge it. In fact, the installer (a professional pinball store owner) could not dislodge it. We deduced it might be intentional and powered it on. It made some weird sounds and the T-Rex did not move. We turned it off right away. Afterwards, it was very loos and we were able to shimmy its jaws away from the ramp. Turned it on again and it all appears to work fine. Eats the ball every time! However, there is a lot of up and down slack/wobble in the arm. Can anyone verify if that is normal, or if something got loose and needs tightening.
5. There is a location where a side wall was tightened into the playfield over the artwork. In that location, there is pooling/creep of the clear coat. Every where else is fine. The rest of the clear coat is noticeably thinner than all of my other games. I hope it does not prematurely wear.
6. A few lighting harnesses wiggled off the terminal. I put them back on and they are fine.
I had to tighten the post underneath the upper right flipper last night. About 125 plays. I put medium strength loctight on the bolt (came with nylon lock nut). No worries 
Quoted from catchlight:I had to tighten the post underneath the upper right flipper last night. About 125 plays. I put medium strength loctight on the bolt (came with nylon lock nut). No worries
If mine gets loose, I think I'm going to replace the washer on the reverse side of the playfield with a larger diameter washer. It should give it much more stability. I only have 6 plays on it, so I'm not there yet!
Quoted from hawkmoon77:#290 has arrived!
First I want to say that I am overall, very happy with it. It is very fun, and looks beautiful. I do have a few issues with it, but I guess that is to be expected with such a complicated machine. This is my experience with #290:
1. The raptor above the raptor cage does not move. In examining the LE/Premium Features video online and comparing it against the toy in my machine, it appears some parts are missing or were never installed on the playfield. Picture below. Notice the post that nothing is screwed into. The video does not show the mech very well. If anyone can send me a good picture of your working raptor mechanism, I'd appreciate it.
2. The helicopter blades are hitting the ramp. I am not sure of the best way to adjust them.
3. One of the plastics in the front is chipped in a noticeable location.
4. The T-rex mouth was open and clamped against the ramp and the spinner frame when it was unpacked. It was extremely hard to dislodge it. In fact, the installer (a professional pinball store owner) could not dislodge it. We deduced it might be intentional and powered it on. It made some weird sounds and the T-Rex did not move. We turned it off right away. Afterwards, it was very loos and we were able to shimmy its jaws away from the ramp. Turned it on again and it all appears to work fine. Eats the ball every time! However, there is a lot of up and down slack/wobble in the arm. Can anyone verify if that is normal, or if something got loose and needs tightening.
5. There is a location where a side wall was tightened into the playfield over the artwork. In that location, there is pooling/creep of the clear coat. Every where else is fine. The rest of the clear coat is noticeably thinner than all of my other games. I hope it does not prematurely wear.
6. A few lighting harnesses wiggled off the terminal. I put them back on and they are fine.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I’m getting a bit worried about the premium I have coming. There is no quality control going on at Stern!
Quoted from Green-Machine:I’m getting a bit worried about the premium I have coming. There is no quality control going on at Stern!
I don't want to overstate the problems. It is a complicated machine. Sure, there are a few clean up issues, but I'm sure when I get the rest of the parts from Stern, it'll be all of an hour or so of adjustment to dial it in. Not to bad in my opinion.
Quoted from hawkmoon77:5. There is a location where a side wall was tightened into the playfield over the artwork. In that location, there is pooling/creep of the clear coat. Every where else is fine. The rest of the clear coat is noticeably thinner than all of my other games. I hope it does not prematurely wear
So wait, the LE JP is still having clear coat pooling issues?
I received a request to clarify the creep/pooling comment I made in my previous post about my LE. I don't want to panic anyone! All the posts that I see are fine where the artwork was removed. My LE has what I think is an anomaly where a side-wall is clamped against the playfield over artwork. I couldn't get the lighting right in just one photo to demonstrate both issues, so I took two. One shows the gaps, the other shows the clear coat creep that caused it to pool in that isolated spot.
In the first picture, notice the side-wall is compressed against the playfield near the nut? I think there was supposed to be a gap there like all of the rest of the sidewalls, and indeed, even the rest of that particular side wall. But that corner may have gotten overtightened. It resulted in the sidewall pressing firmly against the PF in that corner in an area over the artwork.
And sure enough, where that pressure is applied over the paint, you can see in the second photo that the clear has creeped out from under it causing it to pool around that area slightly. Thankfully, I don't think that area will get beaten up too badly or the vibration may eventually lead that raised clear coat around the steel wall to chip off.
Gap (resized).jpgPooling (resized).jpgMy point is that we shouldn’t have to be doing maintenance on a brand spanking new pin right out of the box. It’s very discouraging
Quoted from Green-Machine:My point is that we shouldn’t have to be doing maintenance on a brand spanking new pin right out of the box. It’s very discouraging
True. I don't want to play it until I figure out how to fix the helicopter blades. I also realized that maybe the missing part is actually loose in the machine somewhere! Or maybe the screw is... I'm actually a bit worried that it could cause a problem if it stuck in there somewhere. I think I need to leave it off until these things gets resolved and I do a really thorough search for it.
Quoted from hawkmoon77:I received a request to clarify the creep/pooling comment I made in my previous post about my LE. I don't want to panic anyone! All the posts that I see are fine where the artwork was removed. My LE has what I think is an anomaly where a side-wall is clamped against the playfield over artwork. I couldn't get the lighting right in just one photo to demonstrate both issues, so I took two. One shows the gaps, the other shows the clear coat creep that caused it to pool in that isolated spot.
In the first picture, notice the side-wall is compressed against the playfield near the nut? I think there was supposed to be a gap there like all of the rest of the sidewalls, and indeed, even the rest of that particular side wall. But that corner may have gotten overtightened. It resulted in the sidewall pressing firmly against the PF in that corner in an area over the artwork.
And sure enough, where that pressure is applied over the paint, you can see in the second photo that the clear has creeped out from under it causing it to pool around that area slightly. Thankfully, I don't think that area will get beaten up too badly or the vibration may eventually lead that raised clear coat around the steel wall to chip off.
[quoted image][quoted image]
This is NOT the feared clearcoat pooling issue IMO.
Quoted from T7:This is NOT the feared clearcoat pooling issue IMO.
Agreed. It is not what people are worried about AND NO ONE SHOULD PANIC. The posts are fine and look good.
I have one side-wall (probably incorrectly) pressed into the playfield over the artwork and that's where it pooled. This is an anomaly! Is the clearcoat still susceptible to deforming under pressure where there is artwork? Apparently yes and I don't know why. But the fact that there is pressure at this point that caused the slight pooling is probably unique to my machine.
Trollhättan
Quoted from hawkmoon77:Agreed. It is not what people are worried about. The posts are fine. I have one side-wall pressed into the playfield and that's where it pooled. This is an anomaly! Is the clearcoat still susceptible to deforming under pressure where there is artwork? Apparently yes and I don't know why. But the fact that there is pressure at this point that caused the slight pooling is probably unique to my machine.
Maybe the game is supposed to be played with cottonballs instead of steel?
Quoted from Dr-pin:Maybe the game is supposed to be played with cottonballs instead of steel?
Ha! Mine did come with a lot of foam. Dumb me threw it out with the packaging.
Quoted from Green-Machine:I’m getting a bit worried about the premium I have coming. There is no quality control going on at Stern!
I'm heavily leaning towards dropping out of my LE spot. Thus far I've heard of several various issues from LE owners and have witnessed it myself on someone's LE. I expect some kinks, but I've heard everything from the logic of the T-Rex head seemingly being off, posts falling apart, flippers feeling loose out of the box, blades hitting the wireform. The JP pro that showed up at the local arcade has already had several issues within the first couple of weeks including significant pooling, sputtering flippers, loose posts.
I own several Sterns, but at this point, my confidence is at all-time low spending this amount of money as I had issues with node boards failing on Star Wars less than a month out of box and entire mechs falling apart and clunking on the bottom of the cabinet on my Iron Maiden LE the same day out of the box. Pinball is pinball, there's always an element of failure because of the physical nature of the beast, but it's very concerning that out of my whole collection that includes Solid States and EMs from the 1970s, that a new in box Stern has been the least reliable.
Quoted from Potatoloco:I'm heavily leaning towards dropping out of my LE spot. Thus far I've heard of several various issues from LE owners and have witnessed it myself on someone's LE. I expect some kinks, but I've heard everything from the logic of the T-Rex head seemingly being off, posts falling apart, flippers feeling loose out of the box, blades hitting the wireform. The JP pro that showed up at the local arcade has already had several issues within the first couple of weeks including significant pooling, sputtering flippers, loose posts.
I own several Sterns, but at this point, my confidence is at all-time low spending this amount of money as I had issues with node boards failing on Star Wars less than a month out of box and entire mechs falling apart and clunking on the bottom of the cabinet on my Iron Maiden LE the same day out of the box. Pinball is pinball, there's always an element of failure because of the physical nature of the beast, but it's very concerning that out of my whole collection that includes Solid States and EMs from the 1970s, that a new in box Stern has been the least reliable.
I hear ya brother!! This JP2 Yugo construction crap is unsettling.
Quoted from T7:This is NOT the feared clearcoat pooling issue IMO.
I got a much better photo. As you can see, it is not pooling around the posts. It is only where the sidewall is pressed tightly against the PF. (It is not normally supposed to be pressed against the playfield). In this photo, you get a sense of the height of the pool, and can even see it reflected in the steel side-wall.
Click on the picture and zoom in to actual size to see it clearly.
Wall Pooling (resized).jpg
Quoted from hawkmoon77:I got a much better photo. As you can see, it is not pooling around the posts. It is only where the sidewall is pressed tightly against the PF. (It is not normally supposed to be pressed against the playfield). In this photo, you get a sense of the height of the pool, and can even see it reflected in the steel side-wall.
Click on the picture and zoom in to actual size to see it clearly.
[quoted image]
That looks like a run
Jurassic Park Pinball is shaping up to a killer game. These Amber Mosquito shooters shooters are hand made from a solid piece of cast resin, hand spun on a lathe, and spit polished to clear perfection. Using real crane flies, these custom shooters look great on all models. They can be found at https://modfatherpinball.com/collections/jurassic-park-stern/products/jurassic-park-amber-with-mosquito-shooter-stern
I hope you guys like them. Chuck
amber_egg_pinside_1024x1024 (resized).jpgamber_with_rod_1024x1024 (resized).pngQuoted from Green-Machine:That looks like a run
Sure... but they are clear coated before installation and the chance that the run would exactly match the counter of the side wall that is installed afterwards is not likely. In fact, I can also see a bulge in the clear on the reverse side of that wall too. It would be very hard to photograph that without removing some plastics, but it is visible. Also, it is much more obvious in person that the side-wall is pressed against the playfield in that exact area, and where it isn't pressed against it is the exact spot where the deformity stops.
Quoted from Green-Machine:Hmmmm Peculiar
Yeah, but I'm not too worried about it. I let Stern know so they can document it and hopefully continue to improve. I suspect most machines will show that ramp raised above the clear and not sloping into it. If that is the case, it is a none issue for everyone. But I would be remiss if I didn't mention it.
Quoted from hawkmoon77:Yeah, but I'm not too worried about it. I let Stern know so they can document it and hopefully continue to improve. I suspect most machines will show that ramp raised above the clear and not sloping into it. If that is the case, it is a none issue for everyone. But I would be remiss if I didn't mention it.
Like you, I think it wouldn’t be an issue. Happy flipping! I have a couple weeks or so before mine comes.
Quoted from Green-Machine:Like you, I think it wouldn’t be an issue. Happy flipping! I have a couple weeks or so before mine comes.
I don't know you, but I'm getting to know this game and I can safely say that you are going to love it!
Quoted from Green-Machine:Hmmmm Peculiar
I got a much better picture of the gap issue that is causing the side-wall to press into the playfield by turning on the GI lights. Take a look at the attached. Like a post or washer pressing into the clear, here, you can see the wall is pressing into the clear. Probably an anomaly. Nonetheless, that pressure has deformed the clear in MY machine, but I don't think this would affect anyone whose side-walls aren't pressed into the PF over the artwork.
It's also worth reminding that the clear coat appears to be much thinner, so it is no surprise to me that the deformed clear coat on mine is less raised (and less noticeable) than it appears on the more thickly coated machines we've seen on earlier pros.
Quoted from hawkmoon77:I don't know you, but I'm getting to know this game and I can safely say that you are going to love it!
Are you in US?
Anyone have advice on how to adjust the Trex vertically? His jaw when open seems to be way too high for a ball to go to the magnet.
Sydney
Quoted from hawkmoon77:I got a much better picture of the gap issue that is causing the side-wall to press into the playfield by turning on the GI lights. Take a look at the attached. Like a post or washer pressing into the clear, here, you can see the wall is pressing into the clear. Probably an anomaly. Nonetheless, that pressure has deformed the clear in MY machine, but I don't think this would affect anyone whose side-walls aren't pressed into the PF over the artwork.
It's also worth reminding that the clear coat appears to be much thinner, so it is no surprise to me that the deformed clear coat on mine is less raised (and less noticeable) than it appears on the more thickly coated machines we've seen on earlier pros.
[quoted image]
Definitely recommend putting a washer under that last bolt that secures the rail to the pf. That’s exactly the point that causes chips on Deadpool ball guides.
Update with my LE issues. Again, I don't' want to overstate the problems by bringing them up. It's just some minor stuff that needs to get worked out, but I hope it is helpful to some. With regard to my earlier post, (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/15#post-5222321) After speaking with Stern (who was all over it and working to get me help) these are the resolutions:
1. They forgot to install some parts that makes the raptor move. They are sending out the necessary hardware.
2. They suggested I bend the ramp down and away slightly to avoid contact between the blades and the ramp and they recommended that I do NOT adjust the helicopter itself. Caution as it is hard to bend and it rests on a single post above the right bumper that could get deformed. With careful and precise bending, I was NOT able to avoid contact between the blades and the rail. But it is much better! I may uninstall the ramp and try to bend it further so I don't risk bending that first post.
3. They are sending a new plastic that is not chipped.
4. T-Rex is fine! They confirmed that the movement in the video I provided is normal.
5. Ooof… I'll get back to 5.
6. The wiring harnesses were on the doors coin release bulbs. I slightly crimped the connector and re-installed them on the super tiny contacts.
OKAY, 5... So we discovered the problem was greater than originally thought. The nut was so over-tightened that the entire wall wasn't just tight against the PF, but also twisted away from the plastic above it by over 1/4 of an inch. My original pictures showed it, but I didn't realize it was an anomaly. See below (new comments in orange):
AND:
I loosened the nut underneath the wall a few turns and the ramp popped up and away from the PF, and also untwisted itself to align perfectly with the plastic such that the top edge was about 1/16 UNDER the entire plastic. The clear coat that was under pressure from the wall and ALSO over a painted area, had migrated out and away from the edges of the wall (just like it does with posts and posts with washers) creating a raised surface on both sides of the wall. Fortunately it isn't too bad because of the thinner clear coat and the small surface area of the wall edge. Does this mean the PFs still have pooling problems or not? I don't know. But it only seems to be an issue where there is a pressure point on the clear AND where there is paint. Sadly, some color did lift when the wall was raised, leaving a white line, but the good news is that the wood itself is not compressed under that wall section, and only slightly indented by the hole. Stern was glad to hear the damage isn't too bad. They are sending me the parts I need and a T-Shirt. See pictures below (you may need to click to view them actual size):
Thank you everyone for your help.
Quoted from hawkmoon77:Update with my LE issues. Again, I don't' want to overstate the problems by bringing them up. It's just some minor stuff that needs to get worked out, but I hope it is helpful to some. With regard to my earlier post, (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/15#post-5222321) After speaking with Stern (who was all over it and working to get me help) these are the resolutions:
1. They forgot to install some parts that makes the raptor move. They are sending out the necessary hardware.
2. They suggested I bend the ramp down and away slightly to avoid contact and they recommended that I do NOT adjust the helicopter itself. Caution as it is hard to bend and it rests on a single post above the right bumper that could get deformed. With careful and precise bending, I was NOT able to avoid contact between the blades and the rail. But it is much better! I may uninstall the ramp and try to bend it further so I don't risk bending that first post.
3. They are sending a new plastic that is not chipped.
4. T-Rex is fine! They confirmed that the movement in the video I provided is normal.
5. Ooof… I'll get back to 5.
6. The wiring harnesses were on the doors coin release bulbs. I slightly crimped the connector and re-installed them on the super tiny contacts.
OKAY, 5... So we discovered the problem was greater than originally thought. The nut was so over-tightened that the entire wall wasn't just tight against the PF, but also twisted away from the plastic above it by over 1/4 of an inch. My original pictures showed it, but I didn't realize it was an anomaly. See below:
[quoted image]
AND:
[quoted image]
I loosened the nut underneath the wall a few turns and the ramp popped up and away from the PF, and also untwisted itself to align perfectly with the plastic such that the top edge was about 1/16 UNDER the entire plastic. The area of the clear coat that was under pressure from the wall and ALSO over a painted area, had migrated out and away from the pressure of the wall (just like it does with posts and posts with washers) creating a raised surface on both sides of the wall. Fortunately it isn't too bad because of the thinner clear coat and the small surface area of the wall edge. Does this mean the PFs still have pooling problems or not? I don't know. But it only seems to be an issue where there is a pressure point on the clear AND where there is paint. Sadly, some color did lift when the wall was raised, leaving a white line, but the good news is that the wood itself is not compressed under that wall section, and only slightly indented by the hole. Stern was glad to hear the damage isn't too bad. They are sending me the parts I need and a T-Shirt. See pictures below:
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Thank you everyone for your help.
Glad Stern has scrambled to fix things for you!
Quoted from hawkmoon77:1. They forgot to install some parts that makes the raptor move. They are sending out the necessary hardware.
What parts did they not install?
EDIT: Nevermind, I see they didn't install the lever underneath that actuates the raptor. Didn't see it at first.
#218 has arrived in Oregon and all looks good but, it's only been a few hours now. Still, I don't see any playfield issues and the game is playing as it should. My machine has a build date of 9/16/2019. It also has no art work immediately around the sling posts, etc. so it appears the clear coat issue is under control. I should add that I took delivery of a Deadpool Premium last week that has a build of 8/16/2019 and it too seems perfect so far.
20190925_135850.jpg20190925_161247.jpg20190925_161410.jpg20190925_161232.jpgQuoted from hawkmoon77:I got a much better picture of the gap issue that is causing the side-wall to press into the playfield by turning on the GI lights. Take a look at the attached. Like a post or washer pressing into the clear, here, you can see the wall is pressing into the clear. Probably an anomaly. Nonetheless, that pressure has deformed the clear in MY machine, but I don't think this would affect anyone whose side-walls aren't pressed into the PF over the artwork.
It's also worth reminding that the clear coat appears to be much thinner, so it is no surprise to me that the deformed clear coat on mine is less raised (and less noticeable) than it appears on the more thickly coated machines we've seen on earlier pros.
[quoted image]
It is the same issue as earlier just less notable. Over torqued bolts and clear coat not completely cured. All yours is just to a much lesser degree.
When the T-rex is in the 0 switch posistion (middle of the ramp) it is slightly to the right side of the ramp. When the T-rex comes down it hits the right part of the ramp and slides over into place in the middle correctly to catch the ball. I have had a couple of occasians where the T-rex did not get to the center and it could not open the mouth correctly. Anyone else has alignment issues with our old T-rex buddy?
Well unfortunately I have a t-Rex issue, let me start of by saying I LOVE this game. The game feels very well thought out and is incredibly fun. Now to the Rex, unfortunately mine will not move left or right. I’ll be honest I didn’t notice right away as I’ve never seen one in action. It would pick up the ball a and the drop it on the ramp. Having it in test mode you hear the hum of the motor trying to work but nothing. I’ve manually moved him back and forth and everything seems ok. Other worry sum issue is that the motors casing is quite hot. I’ll call stern in the AM and see what they say.
Quoted from cpr9999:It is the same issue as earlier just less notable. Over torqued bolts and clear coat not completely cured. All yours is just to a much lesser degree.
I think that's right. Plus they forgot some playfield parts. They were kind of embarrassed by that.
Quoted from mummite:When the T-rex is in the 0 switch posistion (middle of the ramp) it is slightly to the right side of the ramp. When the T-rex comes down it hits the right part of the ramp and slides over into place in the middle correctly to catch the ball. I have had a couple of occasians where the T-rex did not get to the center and it could not open the mouth correctly. Anyone else has alignment issues with our old T-rex buddy?
Mine was aligned great. I noticed a lot of calibration settings in the menu to adjust stuff like that.
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