I just installed a knocker. Maybe I've just heard too many digital knockers but it doesn't quite sound the way I expected. Can you guys weigh in on whether this sounds right? I'm wondering if I misaligned it or something.

I put the knocker in all my Sterns including JP and they sound awesome and LOUD. You mounted it to hit the back of the cabinet using the template in the instructions? You turned off the software knocker (knocker volume to off) in the settings menu?

Pic of your installation? Almost sounds like the coil is too close to the back wall.

2nd that. I think it's a great mod that does look like it should be a standard part of the game.

Btw how reversible is it. I put the signs on and that tape is mighty strong. So how easy would this mod actually be to remove? I used bluetac to put it in place as the mod covers some screws and I figured I might need access one day.

Yeah. I had the template next to it and tried to line it up as well as I could. I took the playfield out and even so found it difficult to screw in down there. I can't open up the game right now to take an overhead picture but I'm probably just too used to hearing fake versions. It's probably fine. I'm not sure what I was expecting.

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Seems ok. Yeah it doesn't sound like B/W WPC games. They have theirs in the backbox. Smaller "resonator". You can't on Sterns since the backbox is metal. Knocker in the cab sounds LOUD and cavernous. Certainly different.

I would never remove it but if I HAD to for some reason, I would simply rotate the surface rather than try to lift it. The rotation is quite easy and breaks the tape bond. Once the plastic is removed, you would need to use an tape adhesive removing cleaner (like the goo-b-gone stuff) on the residue left behind. I have done this previously and it works great.

We need a top view also to see the gap.

Hi everybody,

A customer has bought my blade made for a Pro for a Premium. He does not ask me he has a Premium machine. So, I have explained that blade is not built for a premium, but he succeeds to install it and he says this blade works fine and in better way that the original. So, guys if you want a new blade with your own color do not hesitate to go on my pinside shop to buy it. Here are some photos with the blade installed on a Premium/LE machine. You have just to unscrew the only screw and replace the old standard blade by ours

The video :

Have a nice day.

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The sound is definitely more muted in the video compared to in person. How's it look?

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Update (retro): Looking at post 7766 below, there are two differences inthe two installations, 1) The knock plate itself is not flush against the top wood surface. The plate is not flat possibly due to the screws not being tight, 2) The coil assembly appears to be about 3/16 of an inch too high. That would make the travel distance a bit short and the sound slightly different.

I think the consensus here is the plate issue is causing MOST of the audiable dissappointment. The hint is the metallic sound you mentioned. A properly installed knocker plate actually uses the wooden panel as the SOUNDING BOARD, literally!

Good luck!

I'm not really sure. Roughly the gap shown on the template, or "about an inch" as stated in the instructions. I think I'm just really used to hearing the knocker on an old Williams machine and then synthetic knockers. This Stern version seems to work but doesn't have quite the same sound, which is OK i guess. Just not quite what I expected.

Looks like the plate is not flush on the back. Look closely on the lower right corner. Also, I hear what sounds like a ringing after the knock like something metallic is vibrating still.

Generally after I install a knocker, I push the plunger until it is touching the plate and make sure there is about an 1/8th inch of travel left so the plunger has not bottomed out.

Good eye!! This would definitely cause it to sound off. The plate not fully against the wood doesn’t allow for that sold knock

Here is a photo of mine, and it literally makes my ears ring if I'm too close to it.

Already mentioned, the very first think I noticed in your pic is the plate does not look completely flush with the cabinet. This would definitely cause the sound to be muted if a solid surface was not being struck.

In addition, it does look like mine is mounted slightly further away from the back wall of the cabinet based upon looking and the location in relationship to the vent holes. However, I would make sure you get the plate secured correctly first before attempting to move your coil.

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Alright. I opened it up again and moved everything over a bit and made sure the plate is flat, then moved the coil back a bit. It does sound more like a snap now. I think this is as good as it gets. Thanks.

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Not to nitpick, but it looks like you are a little askew. This may prevent the armature from hitting the plate flush, thus not maximizing the sound produced.

You had to rain on his parade??? Lol!!! Yes, it’s slightly askew, but he’s sooooo close now.

Lol

Just want him to get the best thump possible.

I think it looks more askew than it really is. Even so, I loosened it and then tightened it with the plunger flat against the plate. It still looks a bit askew but I'm pretty sure it's hitting flat. Just had a match at the end of the game and it was very loud.

Na! We want a slow motion video to see that 100% of the surface is hitting flat! … or it never happened

is only one of these required?
cheers

For anyone interested in a new goat mod for JP here's a new thread I just created

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-goat-mod#post-6397976

Yes, just one is installed. 7mm inner, 15mm outer

Makes me want to bleat - Meh-eh-eh! Meh-eh-eh!

Does any one happen to have a spare JP Matchbox helicopter that they aren't going to use?

Send me a PM and I'll buy it from you - ebay/amazon are sold out.

Only 1 set is required for the jeep but they are sold in a set of 4 so it's good to have spares around.

Joined the JP club about a week ago. Love the game. Code is unbelievably in depth. So much going on that keeps me coming back.

Who here has the most plays on their game? I find myself having a crappy first ball and starting over quickly. Racking up the plays quick

I do this. Plays don't really matter. Whenever you see sale posts that say "only 53 plays," I don't even believe it. You can never play the game and let it rot in a damp basement and it's worse off than a game with 5000 plays. Look at that recent "new old stock" Addams family that was recently listed. The thing was garbage but never played. Have fun with your game, take care of it, and don't worry about the number of plays.

I just got around to trying some things. The magnet coil in trex mouth looks good to me…but not sure what the expected behavior is on the coil test. The mouth responds when magnet coil is triggered. Not much else happens. Some other notes on the issue. She doesn’t drop the ball until a ball search is performed, or if I purposely tilt the machine. The ball drops right away then. There are other settings I tried like jaw strength dropping from 40 to 30. The thing is there are so many possible adjustments (ticks for example)…knowing where to start on this one is what I’m after. Last note for now, when she eats the ball and starts The multiball sequence, she does raise her head up, flap her jaw three times over the circle shaped ramp, and then just keeps the ball in her jaw.

Anyways, hoping the extra info triggers a next step idea

I have to definetly agree with you there! I buy pins to play the crap out of them. Not to look at and turn around and sell with low plays. I bought a kiss pro with about 3500 games on it. It is probably my best and most reliable pin I have. All the kinks have been worked out and I keep it clean and waxed! Still looks great!

I have both and I think they fit in very well.

I'm having great difficulties shooting the cross-playfield ramp with the upper flipper. I had the game for 2 weeks and maybe 200 games and I reckon I've only made the ramp shot 10 times in all of those games.

I've attached a photo of my flipper alignment from factory. Should this be adjusted or is it just me being horrible at pinball?

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Does anyone else not really care for the control room modes?

Rob

Flipper looks a little off. Mine is dead centre with the post. Btw when I get a new nib title I try not to mod things like rubbers, mechs etc until I've dialed the game in and have played a fair bit to get my aim in. That way I know I haven't contributed to an issue. If the game plays rubbish oem I then try to solve the issue. Then if I replace rubbers that might be bouncer I know it's them and I may need to relearn the shots of piss the rubbers off. I replaced my flipper rubbers on gb with titan and it played crap, put in superbands and played better than stern ones. Just my thoughts that might help in the future.

That looks pretty good.
Its not meant to be dead center with the post.

Have you checked whether the ball can clip the screw head on the tower ramp flap? Run the ball over the screw to feel if it catches it as lots of people have that issue - if you do you can either grind a bit off the screw head, replace the screw with a different shaped head (but you may still have the same issue), some people have simply removed the ramp flap, or the alternative the most people seem to be doing these days is to replace the ramp flap with a Cliffy carbon fibre adhesive version.

Also what pitch do you have your PF set to? Keith indicated that is was designed to be played at 7 degrees. It might be worth changing the angle slightly to see whether it helps with the shot.

Are you referring to when T-Rex chews the ball - ie. she holds the ball in her mouth (held by the magnet) and open & closes her mouth a couple of times? As this is one of the sequences she'll do before she drops or throws the ball.

Well you need to do them and Secure the Control Room to Escape from Nublar

As Manny65 said check the screw head on the ramp entrance first to see if that's making contact with the ball. If it's not, then look to see if the ball is transitioning smoothly from the ball guide to the face of the flipper or if the ball is hopping away from the face of the flipper a bit. If it's hopping, then adjust the end of the ball guide out slightly so the ball transitions smoothly to the flipper. And if the transition to the flipper isn't the issue then try adjusting flipper power up or down to see if that helps.

Hi everyone. Joined the club with a prem a few weeks ago. It's my first pin and loving it so far.

While I was playing today a washer shot off from somewhere, took a while to locate where it came from but it seems to have come off a raptor plastic, I've circled the exact washer in the pic. I can't figure out, from both looking at the machine and looking at the manual how that washer stays in place. There doesn't seem to be a screw from underneath and the screw from above is no where near long enough to go through to that washer. Can anyone help? Thanks

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This ^^^^

Thanks for the reply. It's definitely from post #4, that post now doesn't connect to the plastic. Just to clarify you think the screw ive circled in purple goes underneath? I thought that was the underneath part for the yellow circled bit. Also weirdly just the washer came off, there's no loose screws floating around, confused.

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I have to laugh at this.

I like them. They give no quarter. I have not finished one yet.

oh I see! Thanks a lot. I was looking at the lines and to me that lined up with part 9 but I see that makes no sense and belonging to post 4 makes sense. Like I said my first pin so still learning how to read even the diagrams let alone anything else. Got some poking around to do to find the screw and other washer! Thanks again

Yep it’s setup as JMCFAN describes on the bottom with a screw and washer going into the post. Here’s a pic of the top side setup. I tried to get a picture underneath too but it didn’t turn out very well. I’m posting it anyway though in case it helps.

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