(Topic ID: 248218)

Welcome To The Jurassic Park Prem/LE Club!!

By EightBallTexas

2 years ago


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  • 8,698 posts
  • 731 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 days ago by crwjumper
  • Topic is favorited by 370 Pinsiders

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“What is the first MOD you will buy??”

  • Toppers 59 votes
    46%
  • New Jeep 51 votes
    40%
  • Plastic Characters 18 votes
    14%

(128 votes)

This poll has been closed.

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18 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 8,698 posts in this topic. You are on page 144 of 174.
#7151 1 year ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

Just added color

See my earlier note about this. It can be done, carefully, using a thin mechanics ignition wrench. There is a nylon lock washer under the flipper assembly. I removed the post without having to touch the flipper assembly, but takes the right tool and some patience...

Yeah, but it takes all of a few minutes to just lower the mech a little bit and not have to fiddle around. You don't have to even loosen the flipper from the mech, and it just bolts back in place. Bam.. done.

#7152 1 year ago

Any other pointers on the Cliffy set install?

#7153 1 year ago

Also have the cliffy set on order-
Thanks for exploring this!

Cliff don’t forget about my address edit haha!
Please and thanks!

#7154 1 year ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:Just added color

See my earlier note about this. It can be done, carefully, using a thin mechanics ignition wrench. There is a nylon lock washer under the flipper assembly. I removed the post without having to touch the flipper assembly, but takes the right tool and some patience...

Also, bicycle wrenches are really thin and designed for tight areas. Something like these: amazon.com link »

#7155 1 year ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

Yeah, but it takes all of a few minutes to just lower the mech a little bit and not have to fiddle around. You don't have to even loosen the flipper from the mech, and it just bolts back in place. Bam.. done.

Agreed, this is how I did mine. I didn't want to mess with that little clearance and then trying to get the new nut threaded back on correctly.

#7156 1 year ago

Wich Kenwood speakers are the best?

Have some noise and cant fix it by settings or wire.

#7157 1 year ago
Quoted from Jarbyjibbo:

Agreed, this is how I did mine. I didn't want to mess with that little clearance and then trying to get the new nut threaded back on correctly.

New nut...????

#7158 1 year ago
Quoted from Munsters:

Wich Kenwood speakers are the best?
Have some noise and cant fix it by settings or wire.

Many people with 5-1/4 plates (LE) are using Kenwood 1366’s. If you have a Premium, it has a 4-inch plate. I recommend Kickers for the 4-inch type.(or you could swap the plates for the larger speaker size for about $50)

That said, tell us more about the ‘noise’ since better sounding speakers might just make better sounding ‘noise’…

#7159 1 year ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

Yeah, but it takes all of a few minutes to just lower the mech a little bit and not have to fiddle around. You don't have to even loosen the flipper from the mech, and it just bolts back in place. Bam.. done.

Well that was easy... 8 nuts...slide out of the way ..nut driver and a phillips...bolt it back up....

#7160 1 year ago

Does anyone have the Laseriffic topper installed that might share opinions and pictures? Can't find anyone showing it off. Thanks!!!

#7161 1 year ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

Many people with 5-1/4 plates (LE) are using Kenwood 1366’s. If you have a Premium, it has a 4-inch plate. I recommend Kickers for the 4-inch type.(or you could swap the plates for the larger speaker size for about $50)
That said, tell us more about the ‘noise’ since better sounding speakers might just make better sounding ‘noise’…

It’s like an crackling sound. You maybe think it’s the amplifier?

Around the 15' second you can hear it very good, link: https://voca.ro/18kAgLk7GquZ

#7162 1 year ago
Quoted from Munsters:

It’s like an crackling sound. You maybe think it’s the amplifier?
Around the 15' second you can hear it very good, link: https://voca.ro/18kAgLk7GquZ

I don't hear anything unusual in your recording. I listened carefully at 15-second mark and just don't hear any odd sound.

Does anyone else here it? I must be missing it.

#7163 1 year ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

I don't hear anything unusual in your recording. I listened carefully at 15-second mark and just don't hear any odd sound.
Does anyone else here it? I must be missing it.

I cut the piece out, hope you can hear it better now. Please see: https://vocaroo.com/1dSO4BhJUbu7

#7164 1 year ago
Quoted from Munsters:

I cut the piece out, hope you can hear it better now. Please see: https://vocaroo.com/1dSO4BhJUbu7

Did you try it with the official Stern code? If something doesn't sound right and you are using custom sound code then maybe THAT's the problem...

#7165 1 year ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

I don't hear anything unusual in your recording. I listened carefully at 15-second mark and just don't hear any odd sound.
Does anyone else here it? I must be missing it.

Quoted from Munsters:

I cut the piece out, hope you can hear it better now. Please see: https://vocaroo.com/1dSO4BhJUbu7

I'm not hearing any static or crackling at all.

#7166 1 year ago
Quoted from DeathHimself:

I'm not hearing any static or crackling at all.

I hear it. My SW is the same. But on mine I changed the speakers and messed with the EQ/filtering settings. I think I'm pumping too much bass to the backbox speakers or the speakers are loose. Or maybe too tight which distorts the sound...

It sounds like the shaker is going but it isn't.

#7167 1 year ago
Quoted from Munsters:

Wich Kenwood speakers are the best?
Have some noise and cant fix it by settings or wire.

Still so many questions to help troubleshoot your issue:
1) Do you hear the 'noise' sound in ONE specific sound sequence, or is it prevelant throughout the normal game play. Do you here it in many places?
2) Are you using 40TS custom gamecode, or 1.03 stock game code? (Good to know, although this issue has never been reported in either software image)
3) Do you hear the sound from the backbox, or from the cabinet speaker? (Get really close to each speaker and see WHERE you can hear it coming from)
4) What are your specific settings in the EQ setup? And what VOLUME setting do you have your game set to?
5) Have you added an external subwoofer, and if so, how is it connected?
6) can you confirm that you have stock (factory) speakers in the cabinet and backbox?
7) Have you opened the backbox and confirmed that the two locknuts on each of the speakers are tight, and that the speakers themselves are solidly mounted to the plate?
8) Can you also confirm that there is a fiber washer between the backbox speaker metal frame and the plate on each threaded post? Older builds were missing those washer.
9) What is your machine's build date?

#7168 1 year ago

Does anyone have directions for the Stern amber shooting rod? The ones that came with it are lame with no wiring directions etc... any issues I should know of etc...?

#7169 1 year ago
Quoted from JMCFAN:

Does anyone have directions for the Stern amber shooting rod? The ones that came with it are lame with no wiring directions etc... any issues I should know of etc...?

The instructions they have are for a generic shooter plate install. I guess they never bothered to make real instructions. That said, PM me and I can advise. I have installed twice...

#7170 1 year ago
Quoted from JMCFAN:

Does anyone have directions for the Stern amber shooting rod? The ones that came with it are lame with no wiring directions etc... any issues I should know of etc...?

Pretty straightforward install. Just unscrew all 5 screws on the plate inside the cabinet. Remove both the stock shooter rod and that inside plate. Swap in the both entire new Stern shooter mech (the full assembly with rod and outside plate) and the new inside plate that came with it (run the wires from the shooter rod through the slots in the new plate). Replace the screws to hold it all together and plug into CN15. Here's a post that has a picture of what it should look like from the inside when you're done. In this one both wires were run through the left slot. I put one wire through each side. Either way works just fine.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/114#post-5747821

#7171 1 year ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

Pretty straightforward install. Just unscrew all 5 screws on the plate inside the cabinet. Remove the stock shooter rod and that plate. Swap in the entire Stern shooter mech and the new inside plate that came with it (run the wires from the shooter rod through the slots in the new plate). Replace the screws to hold it all together and plug into CN15. Here's a post that has a picture of what it should look like from the inside when you're done. In this one both wires were run through the left slot. I put one wire through each side. Either way works just fine.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/114#post-5747821

One small caveat: THE VERY FIRST THING TO DO is I mark the OUTSIDE of the cabinet with blue painter's tape BEFORE you remove the old plate. Put tape along all four edges of the original plate. In that way you can align the new plate in the EXACT same place, making sure the shooter is aligned with the playfield lane in exactly the same place as the factory one.

#7172 1 year ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

One small caveat: THE VERY FIRST THING TO DO is I mark the OUTSIDE of the cabinet with blue painter's tape BEFORE you remove the old plate. Put tape along all four edges of the original plate. In that way you can align the new plate in the EXACT same place, making sure the shooter is aligned with the playfield lane in exactly the same place as the factory one.

And if it ends up needing a bit of an alignment adjustment (mine didn't but if it does) then you can skip putting in the two hex head wood screws and just use the other three screws. That will give you a bit of play in the alignment while still holding it all together plenty tight.

Your turn again...

#7173 1 year ago

Are the upposts suppose to have a pin in them? Picture doesn’t show the hole (go me great photographer) but mine keeps coming out of the control room lock.

76CB2E0E-3C15-4338-8812-AE0FFCD17699 (resized).jpeg

#7174 1 year ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

And if it ends up needing a bit of an alignment adjustment (mine didn't but if it does) then you can skip putting in the two hex head wood screws and just use the other three screws. That will give you a bit of play in the alignment while still holding it all together plenty tight.
Your turn again...

I put a level on top of the plate and then tightened. No problems

#7175 1 year ago
Quoted from tomaszb1:

Are the upposts suppose to have a pin in them? Picture doesn’t show the hole (go me great photographer) but mine keeps coming out of the control room lock.
[quoted image]

I just checked mine. I couldn't see how it's held in but definitely seems like it's held in somehow. I manually lifted the plunger for the coil to make the post rise, and then when I pulled up lightly on the post from above the playfield it wouldn't budge at all. I couldn't see how it's attached though because it seems to be inside a plastic tube that goes from the end of the coil to the bottom of the playfield. I looked in the manual and Pg 47 shows a diagram of the assembly but the diagram doesn't have the post in it. It only shows the coil so I can't tell from that how/if it's attached either.

#7176 1 year ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

I just checked mine. I couldn't see how it's held in but definitely seems like it's held in somehow. I manually lifted the plunger for the coil to make the post rise, and then when I pulled up lightly on the post from above the playfield it wouldn't budge at all. I couldn't see how it's attached though because it seems to be inside a plastic tube that goes from the end of the coil to the bottom of the playfield. I looked in the manual and Pg 47 shows a diagram of the assembly but the diagram doesn't have the post in it. It only shows the coil so I can't tell from that how/if it's attached either.

Yea that was def my issue as I was looking at all the other upposts in the game . Thanks for checking!

#7177 1 year ago

All Cliffys and plastic protectors installed...Pin Stadiums in... played 2 games... just WOW... and I have not installed "new" code yet...

Wait ....almost all Cliffys... Raptor pit... what's the trick there.... I can get it to "snap in:....

#7178 1 year ago
Quoted from JMCFAN:

All Cliffys and plastic protectors installed...Pin Stadiums in... played 2 games... just WOW... and I have not installed "new" code yet...
Wait ....almost all Cliffys... Raptor pit... what's the trick there.... I can get it to "snap in:....

The gap is pretty tight, I'm not sure you need it. I find the best way to get those type of protectors in correctly is to remove the mech and reinstall it. Just like the Scolari targets on GB only wider.

#7179 1 year ago

Markharris2000 bought new (same) speakers but this doenst help

1) Do you hear the 'noise' sound in ONE specific sound sequence, or is it prevelant throughout the normal game play. Do you here it in many places?
- There is always a noise present. Some scenes are less noticeable than others.

2) Are you using 40TS custom gamecode, or 1.03 stock game code? (Good to know, although this issue has never been reported in either software image)
- Tried both

3) Do you hear the sound from the backbox, or from the cabinet speaker? (Get really close to each speaker and see WHERE you can hear it coming from)
- Yes, backbox speakers make's noise. Cabinet box is fine.

4) What are your specific settings in the EQ setup? And what VOLUME setting do you have your game set to?
- EQ setup all default. Tried also to change ohm's but no settings seems to fix the noise

5) Have you added an external subwoofer, and if so, how is it connected?
- Nope

6) can you confirm that you have stock (factory) speakers in the cabinet and backbox?
- Yes

7) Have you opened the backbox and confirmed that the two locknuts on each of the speakers are tight, and that the speakers themselves are solidly mounted to the plate?
- Yes

Can you also confirm that there is a fiber washer between the backbox speaker metal frame and the plate on each threaded post? Older builds were missing those washer.
- Yes, got them

9) What is your machine's build date?
- 21 september 2019

MP3 this time, download: https://convertio.co/nl/download/b75222f4e9645712dd1cefc7677c4b98153fde/

#7180 1 year ago

Ive cut en paste and repeat the high hz sound, listen on: https://vocaroo.com/1jK4MoPhbzSR you hear the constant high noice sound?

#7181 1 year ago
Quoted from Munsters:

Ive cut en paste and repeat the high hz sound, listen on: https://vocaroo.com/1jK4MoPhbzSR you hear the constant high noice sound?

I may not be the right guy with the right ears, but to me, it sounds like the blades of a helicopter. Like something part of the soundtrack intentionally there.

Here is an idea with two possible next step options:
1) If you know how to use PINBALL BROWSER, you can open the game code and then find the exact clip and listen to it on your PC, instead of the Pinball Machine. That would eliminate the pinball hardware entirely. Whatever you hear is part of the source file.
2) Or, if you don't know PB, describe the EXACT sequence of sound that you hear the 'noise' to timlah79, and ask him to listen to the SOURCE audio clip of that exact same thing on his machine. I am sure he has the original source. If the sound is in his source file, then it is supposed tio be there.

#7182 1 year ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

I may not be the right guy with the right ears, but to me, it sounds like the blades of a helicopter. Like something part of the soundtrack intentionally there.
Here is an idea with two possible next step options:
1) If you know how to use PINBALL BROWSER, you can open the game code and then find the exact clip and listen to it on your PC, instead of the Pinball Machine. That would eliminate the pinball hardware entirely. Whatever you hear is part of the source file.
2) Or, if you don't know PB, describe the EXACT sequence of sound that you hear the 'noise' to timlah79, and ask him to listen to the SOURCE audio clip of that exact same thing on his machine. I am sure he has the original source. If the sound is in his source file, then it is supposed tio be there.

Yeah, all I hear is the helicopter background noise.

That said, I do occasionally get static/crackling when the trex roars.

#7183 1 year ago

I also only hear a helicopter.

#7184 1 year ago
Quoted from atrainn:

Yeah, all I hear is the helicopter background noise.
That said, I do occasionally get static/crackling when the trex roars.

Changed the spike 2 board but this doenst fix it. So the only thing i can think of are the cables. Ill try to change this when i got my speaker light kit

#7185 1 year ago

The first song of dj mixer, listen to this; https://vocaroo.com/16gxAhdkxONv

#7186 1 year ago

I have had my game for a while now and this just started happening. During Trex modes other than feed when the ball hits the mouth the mode starts immediately. Before the ball needed to be in the mouth on the magnet to start the mode. So I don’t know if this is the way it is supposed to work or if this is a problem.

#7187 1 year ago
Quoted from Chopper36:

I have had my game for a while now and this just started happening. During Trex modes other than feed when the ball hits the mouth the mode starts immediately. Before the ball needed to be in the mouth on the magnet to start the mode. So I don’t know if this is the way it is supposed to work or if this is a problem.

I believe the first event just needs to make the ramp entrance to trigger it and doesn't need to be caught, but subsequent events T-Rex (by default) needs to catch the ball. There is a setting as to whether T-Rex needs to catch the ball to start the events.

#7188 1 year ago
Quoted from Chopper36:

I have had my game for a while now and this just started happening. During Trex modes other than feed when the ball hits the mouth the mode starts immediately. Before the ball needed to be in the mouth on the magnet to start the mode. So I don’t know if this is the way it is supposed to work or if this is a problem.

Check the opto light on the bottom of the mouth on the tongue. If the light is out then the mouth opto might be out, which would mean the game thinks that switch is closed (meaning a ball is in the mouth) when it shouldn't be. As a result, the mode will start when the ramp entrance is crossed because it also thinks the mouth opto has been tripped for a ball catch. Seems to be a fairly common issue to have that opto go out.

#7189 1 year ago

Hey everyone. Just received my JP Premium two days ago. Been playing like crazy. Before my first play I updated the code.

I notice that every so often, like once maybe every four or five games, I get this really loud pop “boop” type sound. It is quick but loud. I have noticed it most right before the egg gets rolled over after a game ends.

Anyone else have this and anyway to fix or correct it? Thanks for the help to a newbie.

#7190 1 year ago
Quoted from Mjesposi:

Hey everyone. Just received my JP Premium two days ago. Been playing like crazy. Before my first play I updated the code.
I notice that every so often, like once maybe every four or five games, I get this really loud pop “boop” type sound. It is quick but loud. I have noticed it most right before the egg gets rolled over after a game ends.
Anyone else have this and anyway to fix or correct it? Thanks for the help to a newbie.

Sounds like the free game "knock". You should be able to disable it in settings

#7191 1 year ago
Quoted from Mjesposi:

Hey everyone. Just received my JP Premium two days ago. Been playing like crazy. Before my first play I updated the code.
I notice that every so often, like once maybe every four or five games, I get this really loud pop “boop” type sound. It is quick but loud. I have noticed it most right before the egg gets rolled over after a game ends.
Anyone else have this and anyway to fix or correct it? Thanks for the help to a newbie.

Lol, Same here but i didn't know how to explain it so I didn't ask on a post. Scares the sh*t out of me every time.

One difference - my "boop-pop" happens randomly during the game and not at the end. Still, I'll go check my settings and turn that feature off to see if it helps.

#7192 1 year ago
Quoted from Goyomex:

Lol, Same here but i didn't know how to explain it so I didn't ask on a post. Scares the sh*t out of me every time.
One difference - my "boop-pop" happens randomly during the game and not at the end. Still, I'll go check my settings and turn that feature off to see if it helps.

It’s called knocker. Set it to disabled.

#7193 1 year ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

It’s called knocker. Set it to disabled.

Who knew! it sounds more like hitting a softball with a metal bat.

#7194 1 year ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

Check the opto light on the bottom of the mouth on the tongue. If the light is out then the mouth opto might be out, which would mean the game thinks that switch is closed (meaning a ball is in the mouth) when it shouldn't be. As a result, the mode will start when the ramp entrance is crossed because it also thinks the mouth opto has been tripped for a ball catch. Seems to be a fairly common issue to have that opto go out.

Thanks I will check that out

#7195 1 year ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

It’s called knocker. Set it to disabled.

Yeah, got that part but because it was happening randomly during the game - and not at the end - I didn’t associate it with the free credit knocker. Disabled now, guess I’ll be forced to play many games tonight to see if it worked.

#7196 1 year ago
Quoted from mbl1116:

Sounds like the free game "knock". You should be able to disable it in settings

Appreciate everyone’s help with this. I will go into settings and disable that tomorrow. It was scaring the crap out of me when it would happen!!

#7197 1 year ago
Quoted from Mjesposi:

Appreciate everyone’s help with this. I will go into settings and disable that tomorrow. It was scaring the crap out of me when it would happen!!

The synth knocker sound is shocking, even after people hear it a few times! PBL has a 'real knocker' kit ($50) which swaps the synthetic sound with a real mech knocker. Stern must have known this would be a concern, since their software supports the mechanical knocker coil. The mechanical knock is still a bit startling, but this real mechanical knocker sound just feels 'familiar' (same one been around 30+ years) as opposed to this alien baseball bat sound...

#7198 1 year ago
Quoted from Goyomex:

Yeah, got that part but because it was happening randomly during the game - and not at the end - I didn’t associate it with the free credit knocker. Disabled now, guess I’ll be forced to play many games tonight to see if it worked.

It will also happen if you hit the replay score during gameplay

#7199 1 year ago

Hey everyone. Two more questions as I was just playing a couple games with my son and the permanent Newton ball piece came flying off. I opened everything up and force fit then all on but it came off again two times later. When putting the ball back I noticed two lines and like a raised area in front of where the ball sits (pics attached). Is the ball / stem connection broke at this point and should I reach out to stern? As for the play field, anyone know what that is?

Last question is on the ball launch. I have the green spring and have no issue getting it up and over to the helicopter launch LAne when pulling it but when hitting launch button it makes it up and over like 3 out of 10 times. Is that a setting or spring issue?

Machine was purchased brand new and just delivered Wednesday and has about 145 plays on it Thanks again for everyone’s help!!!!

1057E911-1DB0-4E15-A8FA-BBD961DB0C64 (resized).jpeg403B9B5B-F708-41EE-8FCA-C3B7CAB49FFE (resized).jpeg715E460F-0070-4FEC-AA95-4FF08AB5A8CA (resized).jpeg78B64276-678E-48F1-A9FF-7726B38B9374 (resized).jpeg9166A58E-9DD0-4664-90AE-D6E820360D9B (resized).jpegC2ACBD61-973C-430C-BFD1-B19823B11C7E (resized).jpeg

#7200 1 year ago

I just installed the "new" code..... wow.....

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