Mine showed up with just some minor tweaks required - but nothing ‘broken’ - even though quite a few folks are posting about issues, remember there isn’t a lot to post about if yours is trouble free You’ve got a pretty high chance of getting a solid build!

My other 2 NIB Sterns ( Munters LE and Batman 66) were perfect....

It's a luxury electronic-mechanical device with hundreds of parts (several of them moving) that endured being freighted from the factory to the distributor to the buyer. Small issues are going to be present in a certain percentage of the pins. If you accept this fact with a positive attitude knowing that any issues will be addressed in a timely manner by the distributors/manufacturer, even though you may have to wait a few extra days for the pin to be perfect once you get it setup, then you will save yourself a lot of stress and enjoy the pin much more.

Personally, throughout my professional carrier is service oriented businesses I've come to expect issues with just about everything I purchase, and I put more value on how the company producing/selling/supporting the product address problems when they arise. I give much more gratitude and leeway to those that respond quickly, fairly, and openly communicate than those who do not (believe me that I can be a bulldog when they don't). I had a few small issues with my JP early on (my first NIB purchase), and Stern (via my distributor) took care of everything 100% to my satisfaction (time, quality, communication, etc.)

Pinkies out y’all

I just received my JP Prem a few days ago and my T-Rex ramp exit opto didn't work out of the box. So yeah, after a 6 month wait to finally get the game it's pretty much worthless because you can't start a mode or do anything that needs the left ramp to register. I thought the same thing you did about maybe the QA is lacking a little to get the games out the door. I can understand over time something failing or small tweaks here and there but an opto not working straight from the factory? I think that is poor QA. I guess I can just play the Trex events over and over until my new part shows up someday.

There are a few simple fixes that might save you time. The opto connectors could be loose, and need to be reseated, or the optos themselves may have moved and need to be aligned. Can you provide any observations on the optos positioning next time you pull the glass? Did you try to manually make the opto register in TEST mode? Any more details on what it looks like or what you have already tried may help here...

Hi guys, i've got a sound issue with my JP Premium, i made two videos to show what is going on.
I already tried a new CPU board, 3 sd cards, speakers, Power board, settings 4ohm/8ohm, attenuation etc... For now i found nothing.
It seems that problem is only present with JP Premium owners (very strange because Premium/LE share the same code...)

So, i would like to know if some Premium owners can see the videos and do the same thing, and tell me if this is normal or not.
In the first video, the alliasing parasitic 8bit sound can be heard at 20 seconds.

Thanks in advance

Thanks for the suggestions Mark, I did pull the glass and inspect the optos. They were both installed correctly and seemed to be aligned perfectly. Checked the wires and reseated them. Nothing registered in test mode. I do appreciate Stern making things right, they always have but just frustrating of course. They are sending me new optos, just takes a while to receive them.

Finally joining the club after 6 months of considering what will replace the last pin I sold Deposit paid, but delivery to me in Australia not until September, missed the July shipment due to indecision.

This pin will be filling the gap left when I sold The Flintstones, I did consider that they both have three flippers in the same positions, but I don't think that will matter as there are heaps of different shots available on the new pin.

What I didn't notice at the time was that I have replaced a pin themed in the Jurassic period with dinosaurs on it..........with another pin themed in current times featuring dinosaurs and called Jurassic

Nice one Rat - welcome to the club!

LOL - ok so you like dinosaurs .... or is it you like living in the past??

It's complicated..................I have more 80s arcades (5) than pins (3 or 4)
Yep I like the past.....BMX .......MTB..........hey I quit my job to play games and MTB

Wife and I had a 20yr plan for that

Good to hear you’re still MTB (and gaming) - how’s the back from that MTB stack a few years back?

Couple tech support questions.

A) My control room rod sinks into the playfield enough that sometimes balls get stuck on top of it. When the game goes to "find the balls" and pops that rod it launches the ball into the glass. Yikes! It's it likely something is loose?
B) Since installing my Cliff protectors, the raptor cage door doesn't seem to go as low and the ball in there will get caught inside unable to cross over it. It also keeps knocking the protector loose.
C) My tower shot is SUPER inconsistent and seems to launch balls in the air all the time. My helicopter is similar, but my tower is a beast. I know people talk about that she, but that doesn't feel like what's causing it

Thanks

For A you probably just need to adjust the height of the post so it’s flush with the playfield when it’s down. It’s easy to do. Here’s a link to a post about doing it:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/116#post-5763899

The raptor gate height can be adjusted (similar to A. The Control Room up-post as EaglePin indicated). Also check that the gate sits squarely in the PF hole when lowered - a few of us have had to file the bracket holes (where the gate mech is held to the playfield) into slots to adjust the position of the mech. Not sure what protector you are using but guessing your issue is because the gate isn't square in the PF hole.

I would actually remove the raptor gate cliffy. That is a case where I don't think you need it if you have the gate height adjusted properly.

In my opinion (take it for what it is) when adjusted properly, the clearance between the play field edge and the gate is so small that the ball can't really land on the wood edge and chew it up like a scoop or drop target.

I'd second that thought. I have over 12,800 balls played on mine and the playfield cutout for the raptor cage has no issues. Of course, like Apex said it's just my opinion and it's best to do what you're comfortable with.

Months of waiting for my pin yet so I'm trying to get as much stuff ready in advance as I can. Replacement aftermarket flipper coil stops ordered, full Cliffy set ordered.

Will look into plasic protectors soon.

Considering a playfield protector, has anyone here installed one? difficulty rating? worth it?

Does anyone notice flipper fade from heated coils? I know Pin Monk sells fans, but the 3 fan set is OOS and doesn't ship here and would be costly.
Has anyone installed PC fans? If so I might be interested in some some good quiet fans that can plug directly into the game somewhere if anyone has a link?

What else should I be buying?

Now to search the thread for MODs such as trees etc, wow I never thought at 52yrs old I would be scouring eBay for little plastic trees and dinosaurs, but life can take unexpected turns

We have a playfield protector and a full set of cliffys on ours. No big deal putting one on. The raptor cage is a bit tricky as there is a separate piece to put in but apart from that if you can take a machine apart you can fit a protector easy. Take plenty of photos from all different angles as you remove each piece so you can work backwards and put the game back together. We also mark the electrical connectors with different colour sharpies so it is easier to put back together. Upside is it keeps the playfield pretty good underneath. Down side is you need to vacuum the coil dust out and sometimes the protector sticks to the playfield.

We have not noticed any coil fade, I know what people are on about but we do not notice it on this game. Personally I am not that into the game but my wife absolutely loves the thing. She can regularly get scores of over 1 billion and we have the outlanes wide oped and machine at 6.7 degree pitch.

Have fun with it, it is a cool game.

Great, thanks for that info

Does the protector stop your playfield from dimpling? and do you notice any "oil slick" type sheen on the protector that I have read can happen with the new thinner sheets? also I assume it doesn't cause any ball hang ups as you would have no doubt said about that.

It definitely helps with dimpling, stopping about 90% of it. If you clean the playfield with shellite (bunnings) before fitting the protectir this will get rid of most of the oil slick. No ball hang ups if you fit the protector properly. You need to make sure it is flat.

We fit the protector because the playfields are definitely not what they used to be. Plan for us if we keep the game ito remove the protector after a few years and the wood has hardened nicely and we still have a new playfield!

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Thanks again, I'm going to order one and fit it before playing.

Just put my order in for a Premium...sat on this long enough. Real pumped (so is the wife)!

He lives in Tassie mate.....what do you think.

What ETA you get?

The downside to the protectors is that dust gets in under them around all the gaps near ball drops and edges. I know Im way too fussy and love a clean game. This was my experience with a BSD that had the full protector on. I clean my games very regular with the good old Mr Sheen and can deal with the odd dimple or more. The dust however drives me nuts. Just ask Manny65

All good. If you fit the protector and really do not like it, just take it off. I understand they are not for everyone. Some people like them, some people do not. We want to keep our games as good as possible.

Thanks Jokerpoker, I actually already have a playfield protector on my Pin_Bot and I love how it levels out the slightly sunken inserts and makes the game look more glossy, it's the older thicker protector. I don't notice any dust under the edges of mine and I also like my games to be clean. My games room is only used for my games and stays pretty clean and I don't even get much dust on the glass.

So I do have experience with them, but I was wondering how good the new thinner protectors are on new pins, specifically this one and if it would be worthwhile.

Great tip on the shellite before fitting to aviod oil slick look, I will remember that one

Two weeks!

You cannot use Mr Sheen with a playfield protector. Mr Sheen is a silicon based furniture polish. Mix it with coil dust and it turns into a fully synthetic grinding paste that is extremely difficult to remove from your machine. This could destroy your playfield. Novus products only and spray them on a rag first so there is no overspray on the game. Most of the nightmare stories about playfield protectors usually go back to polish or wax that had not been put on properly.

I’ve had no coil fade on this machine, not any evident dimpling either. Not a huge fan of playfield protectors, but some love them.

I have one on my Batman 66...and not on my Munsters LE.... not sure I can tell the difference...but the Munsters seems...smoother..???

Ive been using a small vac first, then lighter fluid (kingsford!) to clean my playfield. works great.
then a bit of Maguiers wax, let it dry, buff, repeat.

We vacuum our playfield as well!

Hi,

I am reaching out to the community for some diagnosing / testing / possible repair help with my JP PE. Brief description of what is happening and what Stern and I have done so far:

The 'C' and 'H' are triggered, the 'T' and 'R' are triggered, the raptor door drops, and the Supply Drop is registered right after the intro movie ends and before the ball is plunged (there is a video link showing the issue below):

This issue just occurred when I turned on the game and hasn't stopped. I didn't touch anything on, in, or around the cabinet or playfield.

I have been working with Stern for a little over 3 weeks trying to figure out what is happening. I believe this issue has them stumped. So far I have done the following:

-Switched back to factory 1.03 code - issue is still there with this code
-Replaced a Core Node 3 AMP board - no fix
-Performed various switch tests to see if any are loose - nothing is loose
-Disconnected the Jeep newton ball sensor and started a game - the 'T' and 'R' still register upon game start up
-Factory resets
-Other diagnoses that did not show any glaring issues

What I have noticed is this 'pre-launch scoring' issue does not happen for player 2...it only triggers for player 1. Ball 2 and 3 do not do anything pre-launch either.

I am curious if anyone else has experienced this or anything similar and if you found a way to repair it. My pin is only about a month old.

Stern is also working with me on this, but I just wanted to reach out to the community to see if anyone else has had this issue.

Thanks so much for your help and more than happy to answer any questions / run any tests / or anything else you can recommend!

Well I just paid my balance and my Prem will ship before the end of the week..... that only took 9 months.....

Wow! Excited for you to finally join the club very soon.

Well, for my first post I'm happy to say I have joined the Jurassic Park Club, setting it up now.

IMG_5985 (resized).jpeg

IMG_5986 (resized).jpeg

Welcome to Pinside and to the JP2 club - and congrats on the new pin!!! Good choice

I've not seen anyone post this sort of issue before and not quite sure where I'd even start on it (sorry) - I would hope that Stern are able to work out what is going on, resolve it and look after you. There are some skilled Stern troubleshooters on the forum but they may not necessarily be following this thread, so my only suggestion would be that you create a new thread in the Tech (LCD era) section https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/forum/tech-lcd-era and hopefully someone will be able to assist and help you out. Good Luck and please share the link of the Tech thread you create, so that we can all learn

Tech thread created:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-pe-scoring-before-the-ball-is-plunged#post-6276105

What is the factory date? Been waiting on mine to ship from Stern.

Ok, after a long journey, I am back in! Build date 20-Apr-2021

Gees..... been waiting for my Prem. for 6 months. Still didn't hear anything. They keep saying its shipping next week. How long ago and who did you guys order from.

Classic Game Rooms in Georgia. Ordered about 10 weeks ago.

Your video on the screen is different than mine. Did you install something different?

First thing to do is install Stern official code to rule out the custom code as being the problem.

**Edit: I just saw you tried that.

Game Room Guys.... ordered late Sept.....shipping this week...they are installing shaker now. They did send multiple updates...

Initial observation on my April 2021 build versus my August 2020 machine: The playfield finish is very different. Whereas the August 2020 machine had a thick layer of clearcoat which made the entire surface of the playfield appear like a sheet of glass, the newer build has a thin layer of clearcoat, where you can visibly see the inserts and decals with some dimension when looking at an angle. Still a beautiful machine, just surprising that they have settled on the thin clearcoat to resolve the pooling issues some people experienced in the past. (Feels like trading one set of issues for a different set of issues)

I have the thin clearcoat on my LE (Sept 2019 build). I can see the wood grain. However no dimpling or wear with over 2000 plays.