(Topic ID: 248218)

Welcome To The Jurassic Park Prem/LE Club!!

By EightBallTexas

2 years ago


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Topic Stats

  • 8,348 posts
  • 701 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 hours ago by EaglePin
  • Topic is favorited by 350 Pinsiders

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Topic poll

“What is the first MOD you will buy??”

  • Toppers 59 votes
    46%
  • New Jeep 51 votes
    40%
  • Plastic Characters 18 votes
    14%

(128 votes)

This poll has been closed.

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There are 8,348 posts in this topic. You are on page 138 of 167.
#6851 7 months ago

Awesome post thanks Manny65

My finger is poised over the buy it now button

#6852 7 months ago
Quoted from Rat:

Does yours have clear washers under the posts?

It does look like there is one under the post by the upper flipper. Harder to tell with the other posts. I did get a carbon fiber one from Cliffy for that post. Worth installing now?

#6853 7 months ago

Email from my Dist... picking up their Prems next Friday....will ship right after... finally!!!!

#6854 7 months ago

Hi All,

I just received my JP Premium and during a few games at the start of ball two, 2 balls are ejected into to the plunger/shooter lane. Both balls can enter the field of play and if one drains the game continues. I can't imagine this is a mode and assume it's some type of error. Has anyone had this happen and/or know where I can make a change to either a menu setting or sensor replacement.

Thanks

#6855 7 months ago
Quoted from Snaggletoes:

Hi All,
I just received my JP Premium and during a few games at the start of ball two, 2 balls are ejected into to the plunger/shooter lane. Both balls can enter the field of play and if one drains the game continues. I can't imagine this is a mode and assume it's some type of error. Has anyone had this happen and/or know where I can make a change to either a menu setting or sensor replacement.
Thanks

Are they ejected into the shooter lane ONE at a time, with some time between them, or ALL at once?

#6856 7 months ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

Are they ejected into the shooter lane ONE at a time, with some time between them, or ALL at once?

All at once, no pause in between. I did put brand new ninja brand balls in the machine instead of the ones that came with it.

#6857 7 months ago
Quoted from Snaggletoes:

All at once, no pause in between. I did put brand new ninja brand balls in the machine instead of the ones that came with it.

Did it work the day you unboxed it? Ninja's can become magnetized in some situations. T-Rex is a strong magnet with teeth and while he's holding the ball thrashing around, it puts quite abit of magnetism into the balls!

Remove the variable: Go back to the factory balls first and see if it fixes the issue (or affects the behaviour at all).

#6858 7 months ago
Quoted from Snaggletoes:

All at once, no pause in between. I did put brand new ninja brand balls in the machine instead of the ones that came with it.

Have you tested the shooter lane switch? If that switch isn't registering properly and the first ball doesn't activate it then the machine will think a ball isn't in the lane and send another ball. Just an idea for something else to check as a possibility. Odd that it's only happening at the start of ball two though.

#6859 7 months ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

Have you tested the shooter lane switch? If that switch isn't registering properly and the first ball doesn't activate it then the machine will think a ball isn't in the lane and send another ball. Just an idea for something else to check as a possibility. Odd that it's only happening at the start of ball two though.

Thanks I’ll take a look at that. Got the machine today and after just a few games I noticed the issue. Couple things so far don’t seem right but I’m sure just a few adjustments to get things in order.

#6860 7 months ago
Quoted from Snaggletoes:

Hi All,
I just received my JP Premium and during a few games at the start of ball two, 2 balls are ejected into to the plunger/shooter lane. Both balls can enter the field of play and if one drains the game continues. I can't imagine this is a mode and assume it's some type of error. Has anyone had this happen and/or know where I can make a change to either a menu setting or sensor replacement.
Thanks

Did you check playfield level ( left to right)
This could affect ball trough switch.

#6861 7 months ago

I got mine today and hooked up my shaker and amber rod. When I turned it back on I got a loud pop and some smoke from the front board. There was also a "liquid" that sprayed. I'm pretty sure it was the add on capacitor that comes with the shaker that blew. I removed that and everything seems to be working fine. Any thoughts?

#6862 7 months ago
Quoted from Averhoeven:

I got mine today and hooked up my shaker and amber rod. When I turned it back on I got a loud pop and some smoke from the front board. There was also a "liquid" that sprayed. I'm pretty sure it was the add on capacitor that comes with the shaker that blew. I removed that and everything seems to be working fine. Any thoughts?

Are you sure you plugged the shaker into the board correctly?

#6863 7 months ago
Quoted from Jarbyjibbo:

Are you sure you plugged the shaker into the board correctly?

There was an extra capacitor that seems to attach to what I think is the node power that came with the shaker. That's what I'm pretty sure blew. The game, shooter lights and shaker all work fine after removing that short capacitor link (and the smell is finally gone...). So I'm pretty sure that was it. It could really only go in one way and I'm pretty sure I plugged it into the right slot (bottom right of the node board). Not sure what happened with it though.

#6864 7 months ago
Quoted from Snaggletoes:

Hi All,
I just received my JP Premium and during a

Hi All,
I just received my JP Premium and during a few games at the start of ball two, 2 balls are ejected into to the plunger/shooter lane. Both balls can enter the field of play and if one drains the game continues. I can't imagine this is a mode and assume it's some type of error. Has anyone had this happen and/or know where I can make a change to either a menu setting or sensor replacement.
Thanks

Start by reseating (unplug and plug back in) any connectors on the trough.
Also go into the adjustments and turn down the trough eject power to somewhere around 170, basically set it the lowest you can set it and still reliably kick a ball out, this will also save wear and tear on your shooter lane.
I had an issue on my GOTG where it would eject a ball so hard that it would either not make it out or it would bounce back in then it would kick out 2.
Also this game isn't terrible about magnatizing balls but still Ninja balls are no good for any game with magnets, you can check them for magnatizing with a small washer or paper clip.

#6865 7 months ago
Quoted from Averhoeven:

I got mine today and hooked up my shaker and amber rod. When I turned it back on I got a loud pop and some smoke from the front board. There was also a "liquid" that sprayed. I'm pretty sure it was the add on capacitor that comes with the shaker that blew. I removed that and everything seems to be working fine. Any thoughts?

There is a Service Bulletin about Shaker Kit installations. In this case, it sounds like your cable was somehow plugged in backwards, or the cable was assembled backwards causing the capacitor to blow.
https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Stern-ShakerMotorAdvisory.pdf

Added 7 months ago:

Just got an update from Pablo with Stern support regarding the need/use of the capacitor adapter:

"Good Morning and thank you for your email. The capacitor service kit is not need on all newer stern game. The capacitors are incorporated into the cabinet node board and should be able to connect the shaker motor direct to the cabinet NODE boards CN16 and not have to use the shaker motor Capacitor harness."

Looks lioke you don't need the capacitor adapter at all for newer games!

#6866 7 months ago

I sometimes get this really loud popping sound. It's almost always during the egg turning scene when you lose, however it happened in the middle of a game this evening. It doesn't happen every game, maybe every 3rd or so? It almost sounds like if you took a ball and threw it at the cabinet, but also has a bit of a ring to it. It's an odd sound and I can't place it

Quoted from Markharris2000:

There is a Service Bulletin about Shaker Kit installations. In this case, it sounds like your cable was somehow plugged in backwards, or the cable was assembled backwards causing the capacitor to blow.
https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Stern-ShakerMotorAdvisory.pdf

Maybe it was installed backwards.

#6867 7 months ago
Quoted from Averhoeven:

I sometimes get this really loud popping sound. It's almost always during the egg turning scene when you lose, however it happened in the middle of a game this evening. It doesn't happen every game, maybe every 3rd or so? It almost sounds like if you took a ball and threw it at the cabinet, but also has a bit of a ring to it. It's an odd sound and I can't place it

Maybe it was installed backwards.

The noise you’re hearing is the knocker. When you get a match or get a free game while your playing.

#6868 7 months ago
Quoted from Averhoeven:

There was an extra capacitor that seems to attach to what I think is the node power that came with the shaker. That's what I'm pretty sure blew. The game, shooter lights and shaker all work fine after removing that short capacitor link (and the smell is finally gone...). So I'm pretty sure that was it. It could really only go in one way and I'm pretty sure I plugged it into the right slot (bottom right of the node board). Not sure what happened with it though.

My shaker motor was missing the z-cap portion to hook up the capacitor. So when I plugged it in I was left with 2 female connectors. I contacted stern and they said the newer machines like JP don’t need the optional capacitor because it is already built into the spike 2 board. I have been running it without the optional capacitor and it works fine.

#6869 7 months ago

I have been having issues with the left ramp registering shots. I found a post in this thread about placing electrical tape on the bottom half of the opto sensor holes. This post was a year old. I wanted to check to see if this is still the best fix or is there a better recommendation out there.

#6870 7 months ago
Quoted from Jfmav:

My shaker motor was missing the z-cap portion to hook up the capacitor. So when I plugged it in I was left with 2 female connectors. I contacted stern and they said the newer machines like JP don’t need the optional capacitor because it is already built into the spike 2 board. I have been running it without the optional capacitor and it works fine.

Ditto this

#6871 7 months ago
Quoted from TimMachine:

The noise you’re hearing is the knocker. When you get a match or get a free game while your playing.

Thanks. That thing is LOUD.

Quoted from Jfmav:

My shaker motor was missing the z-cap portion to hook up the capacitor. So when I plugged it in I was left with 2 female connectors. I contacted stern and they said the newer machines like JP don’t need the optional capacitor because it is already built into the spike 2 board. I have been running it without the optional capacitor and it works fine.

Good to know. I contacted Stern about it and their first question was what game I had it hooked up to, so that may be where they're going. I will say, their documentation in accessories is severely lacking. My amber shooter rod had nothing about changing the plate, wiring, etc

#6872 7 months ago
Quoted from Averhoeven:

Thanks. That thing is LOUD.

Good to know. I contacted Stern about it and their first question was what game I had it hooked up to, so that may be where they're going. I will say, their documentation in accessories is severely lacking. My amber shooter rod had nothing about changing the plate, wiring, etc

You can go in settings and lower the volume or mute that wretched sound.

#6873 7 months ago

Hi, I also had the issue with the T-Rex mouth not opening because the screw came out of the plunger. I was able to reinstall the screw with thread lock. Got everything back together, and the mouth opens. Problem is that it frequently doesn’t close now after opening wide. When it’s supposed to chomp, for example, it opens wide and stays there. The spring still works, it’s just that the mouth seems to have some friction keeping it open. If it squeeze it slightly to overcome the friction the spring takes over and closes the mouth. Can’t seem to figure out what it is rubbing/catching on. Has anyone else run into this issue where the mouth doesn’t want to close?

#6874 7 months ago

Don't mind me... Just waiting for my JP Premium to ship so I can officially be a member of this group. My table should be from this latest run from the factory.... it feels like I'm a damn kid waiting for Christmas.

#6875 7 months ago
Quoted from FightCave:

Don't mind me... Just waiting for my JP Premium to ship so I can officially be a member of this group. My table should be from this latest run from the factory.... it feels like I'm a damn kid waiting for Christmas.

I know that feeling. Same for me and my SW Prem. They keep delaying production.

#6876 7 months ago
Quoted from Jfmav:

I have been having issues with the left ramp registering shots. I found a post in this thread about placing electrical tape on the bottom half of the opto sensor holes. This post was a year old. I wanted to check to see if this is still the best fix or is there a better recommendation out there.

Stern came out with an updated left ramp protector (~ 1 year ago??) that now extends to cover the opto with a hole for the opto beam - the hole has been positioned to achieve the same affect as putting tape on the ramp opto holes. So depending upon the age of your machine, check if the left protector covers the opto or not - if it doesn't you can request the updated ramp protector.

#6877 7 months ago
Quoted from JeepSnob:

Hi, I also had the issue with the T-Rex mouth not opening because the screw came out of the plunger. I was able to reinstall the screw with thread lock. Got everything back together, and the mouth opens. Problem is that it frequently doesn’t close now after opening wide. When it’s supposed to chomp, for example, it opens wide and stays there. The spring still works, it’s just that the mouth seems to have some friction keeping it open. If it squeeze it slightly to overcome the friction the spring takes over and closes the mouth. Can’t seem to figure out what it is rubbing/catching on. Has anyone else run into this issue where the mouth doesn’t want to close?

I've not seen anyone post this issue previously, probably just going to have to give her a thorough inspection to try to work out where it's catching also see if there is a certain position (head raised or lowered etc) where this happens. I'm assuming this happens in test mode as well as gameplay - right?

#6878 7 months ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Stern came out with an updated left ramp protector (~ 1 year ago??) that now extends to cover the opto with a hole for the opto beam - the hole has been positioned to achieve the same affect as putting tape on the ramp opto holes. So depending upon the age of your machine, check if the left protector covers the opto or not - if it doesn't you can request the updated ramp protector.

Thanks. I did check after I read more in this thread. I have the updated plate. It seems that it is the exit sensor that is not reading all the time. So at some point I will have to pull it out and see if it needs a shim to fix the alignment.

#6879 7 months ago
Quoted from Manny65:

I've not seen anyone post this issue previously, probably just going to have to give her a thorough inspection to try to work out where it's catching also see if there is a certain position (head raised or lowered etc) where this happens. I'm assuming this happens in test mode as well as gameplay - right?

Yes, happens consistently in test mode and during play. I’ll take it back apart and report back if I figure it out.

#6880 7 months ago

So these 2 pieces just slid down the playfield from somewhere Jeep or higher. Any ideas where to go looking? And I assume since it's a space and a washer that there's probably a screw somewhere that's missing that I didn't see?
20210424_235322 (resized).jpg

Edit: found where it is from. Now I definitely know there's a missing screw...

20210425_000530 (resized).jpg

Edit 2: and found the screw. It had somehow found its way into the coin box.

#6881 7 months ago

Finally finished putting in all my mods and I love it. I know some people don't like the trees etc, but I think it adds some flair. Most are bought or I've stolen the ideas of. The crushed Explorer is actually a custom job. I went searching for the pre-made one on ebay, but couldn't find one in the US. One seller had this custom built one that he found and sold me though. I threw in my own little Lost World reference with the Matchbox RV up by the pteranodon ramp. I also added a shaker and amber shooter rod that aren't pictured. So other than the Cliffy protectors and blade graphics that I'm still waiting for, I think I'm done.
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#6882 7 months ago

Finally finished putting in all my mods and I love it. I know some people don't like the trees etc, but I think it adds some flair. Most are miss ice bought or stolen the ideas of. However, I the in a little Lost World reference with the Matchbox RV up by the pteranodon ramp. I also added a shaker and amber shooter rod that aren't pictured. So other than the Cliffy protectors and blade graphics that I'm still waiting for, I think I'm done.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
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I like the trees. Where did you get them ? I have a prem coming next week, cant wait !!

#6883 7 months ago

I like the trees. Where did you get them? I have a prem on order, was told today next week. Cant wait!!

#6884 7 months ago
Quoted from Hayfarmer:

I like the trees. Where did you get them? I have a prem on order, was told today next week. Cant wait!!

These should be them
amazon.com link »

#6885 7 months ago
Quoted from Averhoeven:

These should be them
amazon.com link »

Thx!

#6886 7 months ago

Anyone willing to make/sell a helicopter to me?

#6887 7 months ago

Looks great! I highly recommend the Fossil signs from Mezel Mods. Not only do they look great, but the helipad one actually solves the problem of covering/blocking that large bulb behind the plastic.

#6888 7 months ago
Quoted from Cheeks:

Anyone willing to make/sell a helicopter to me?

I'll be honest, it's not that hard. I'm not super handy either. I started by ripping off the rotor and wheels with a pair of pliers. Then I used a small drill bit as a guide down the original rotor shaft. I then upsized to a slightly larger one. Afterwards, I used my 1/2" stepper bit to enlarge it. 1/2" is enough for the hole in the bottom. I then used the same stepper to essentially shave along the edges and file it down until it was big enough to accommodate the washers for the rotors. I also drilled out essentially the entire plastic undercarriage except the edges to allow it to sit flat with the screws on the platform. Took me maybe an hour and a half. The underside is a shitshow, but you can't see it so it doesn't matter.

#6889 7 months ago
Quoted from Averhoeven:

Finally finished putting in all my mods and I love it.

Looks great! Can you tell me more about the Jeep replacement? Where did you get it, how did you install in place of the stock one?

#6890 7 months ago
Quoted from dapperdan24:

Looks great! Can you tell me more about the Jeep replacement? Where did you get it, how did you install in place of the stock one?

There are a ton of notes about modding the Jeep, and you can find one on Ebay and other places easily for about $25. Just Google "Jurassic Park Jada 1:43 Jeep" and you'll find the right part. MAKE SURE you get the 1/43 or 1:43 size!!! Then there are some great instructions on this thread on the (relatively) easy modification process.

#6891 7 months ago
Quoted from dapperdan24:

Looks great! Can you tell me more about the Jeep replacement? Where did you get it, how did you install in place of the stock one?

As Mark said, it's pretty easy. If you go to Mr. Tantrum Pinball Mods (Google it) he will have a link on his page back to his post in this thread about how he did it with pictures etc. I just found that to be an easier way to find it. Took maybe 30 mins? Just need a Phillips screwdriver, right size nut ratchet to get it off and a small drill bit.

#6892 7 months ago
Quoted from Averhoeven:

I'll be honest, it's not that hard. I'm not super handy either. I started by ripping off the rotor and wheels with a pair of pliers. Then I used a small drill bit as a guide down the original rotor shaft. I then upsized to a slightly larger one. Afterwards, I used my 1/2" stepper bit to enlarge it. 1/2" is enough for the hole in the bottom. I then used the same stepper to essentially shave along the edges and file it down until it was big enough to accommodate the washers for the rotors. I also drilled out essentially the entire plastic undercarriage except the edges to allow it to sit flat with the screws on the platform. Took me maybe an hour and a half. The underside is a shitshow, but you can't see it so it doesn't matter.

It didn’t look that hard, and I’m generally pretty handy, but I kinda screwed mine up. I just can’t get the helicopter to fit under the propellor. I read mr_tantrum’s guide and mine looks basically like all the pictures, but it just doesn’t fit. It basically works without the C-clip, but not with it.

#6893 7 months ago

Sweet! Thanks y'all

#6894 7 months ago
Quoted from Averhoeven:

I'll be honest, it's not that hard. I'm not super handy either. I started by ripping off the rotor and wheels with a pair of pliers. Then I used a small drill bit as a guide down the original rotor shaft. I then upsized to a slightly larger one. Afterwards, I used my 1/2" stepper bit to enlarge it. 1/2" is enough for the hole in the bottom. I then used the same stepper to essentially shave along the edges and file it down until it was big enough to accommodate the washers for the rotors. I also drilled out essentially the entire plastic undercarriage except the edges to allow it to sit flat with the screws on the platform. Took me maybe an hour and a half. The underside is a shitshow, but you can't see it so it doesn't matter.

I remember that I needed to cut of the wheels to make it fit

#6895 7 months ago
Quoted from Averhoeven:

I got mine today and hooked up my shaker and amber rod. When I turned it back on I got a loud pop and some smoke from the front board. There was also a "liquid" that sprayed. I'm pretty sure it was the add on capacitor that comes with the shaker that blew. I removed that and everything seems to be working fine. Any thoughts?

I suspect the node board in your machine has the capacitor built in (since it's a newer machine) and you'll be fine WITHOUT the capacitor kit entirely. (In fact, you do NOT want to install the capacitor kit cable if you have the newer node board). That said, the symptom of needing the capacitor kit is to observe mysterious SLAM/TILT triggers for no apparent reason when the shaker is running. If your machine has that symptom, then you'd need to get a new capacitor kit from Stern and install it. But I received an email from Stern Support yesterday, stating that all newer machines already have the capacitor built INTO the cabinet node board, so the cable was only needed for older machines.

#6896 7 months ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

I suspect the node board in your machine has the capacitor built in (since it's a newer machine) and you'll be fine WITHOUT the capacitor kit entirely. (In fact, you do NOT want to install the capacitor kit cable if you have the newer node board). That said, the symptom of needing the capacitor kit is to observe mysterious SLAM/TILT triggers for no apparent reason when the shaker is running. If your machine has that symptom, then you'd need to get a new capacitor kit from Stern and install it. But I received an email from Stern Support yesterday, stating that all newer machines already have the capacitor built INTO the cabinet node board, so the cable was only needed for older machines.

I received the same comment from them. I would still argue that their documentation is a little lacking then...

#6897 7 months ago
Quoted from Averhoeven:

I received the same comment from them. I would still argue that their documentation is a little lacking then...

Yes their has been various comments raised about their documentation on accessories, such as their shaker and lighted plunger

#6898 7 months ago

I got my Jurassic Park Premium about 2 weeks ago. TREX multi ball is not working. Looks like the truck is not registering the letters. Ran the switch looks like truck is not registering any hits. Any ideas?

#6899 7 months ago
Quoted from Wopmike2001:

I got my Jurassic Park Premium about 2 weeks ago. TREX multi ball is not working. Looks like the truck is not registering the letters. Ran the switch looks like truck is not registering any hits. Any ideas?

I would say the first thing would be to check the collar on the shaft (underside of playfield) to ensure it is mounted correctly. It should have a set screw securing it against the flat part of the shaft and when the jeep is fully rotated one way or the other the metal tab on the collar should block (i.e. be between) the left or right par of optos. I did some work on my pin and accidentally put the collar on upside down so instead of the tab being between the optos it was outside/above them. Thus, it never blocked the beam so the pin never registered the jeep as being left or right, and therefore no T-Rex MB.

It is possible that the collar was installed upside down at the factory or the set screw has come loose so the collar is not rotating with the shaft (or maybe has even fallen off). If this is indeed the issue, you could use some blue thread lock (non-permanent) on the lock screw to prevent this from occurring again.

Here is a photo of the correct collar installation (center position so easier to get to the lock screw). When rotated all the way left or right the silver tab on the collar should be between the left/right pairs of the black plastic optos on the circuit board.
pasted_image (resized).png

#6900 7 months ago
Quoted from Wopmike2001:

I got my Jurassic Park Premium about 2 weeks ago. TREX multi ball is not working. Looks like the truck is not registering the letters. Ran the switch looks like truck is not registering any hits. Any ideas?

Is it just me...but it seems a lot of the newly arrived games are showing up with issues..... maybe running the line a little fast..??? Hope mine shows up issue free.....

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